Chapter X

Loss of journals--Difficulties in learning
Eastern languages--Signor Damiani; his
simplicity--Porters--Residence at the Franciscan
convent--Lady Hester’s dress--Not distinguishable from
a Turk--Description of Jaffa--Buildings--Environs
of Jaffa--Orchards--Mohammed Aga: his revenues: his
expenditure--Pilgrims: their sufferings--Object of
their pilgrimage--Departure for Jerusalem--Mr. Pearce
leaves the party--Peasants reaping--Ramlah--Its
monastery--Locusts--Lyd--Departure from Ramlah--Sober
exhortation of a drunken priest--Mountains
of Judæa--Abu Ghosh--Supper--Guards--Selim’s
apprehensions--Cold--Brothers’s prophecy--Jerusalem--Lady
Hester’s lodgings--Dragomans--Visit to the
governor--Kengi Ahmed--Emir Bey; his history--Holy
Sepulchre--Mount Calvary--Visit to the Jews’
quarter--Bethlehem--Monastery--Bethlehemites reputed
to be robbers--Horses--Accident to Mr. B.--Mufti’s
dinner--Memorable places 188

CHAPTER XI.

Departure from Jerusalem--Arabian characters of horses
not to be trusted--Ramlah--Demand of the governor to
inspect Lady Hester’s firmâns--Alarm of Selim, the
Mameluke--Illness of Mr. Pearce at Jaffa--Janissary
dismissed--Departure from Ramlah--Politic conduct
of Dragomans--River Awgy--Harým--Inhabitants
of Galilee--Scorpions, and other venomous
reptiles--Um Khaled--Marble columns--Illness of
Yusef the guide--Mountaineers of Gebel Khalýl and
Nablûs--Cæsarea--Remains of the ancient city--Obstacles
to exploring them--Ma el Zerky--Tontûra--Women
carrying water--Beauty of the road--Aatlyt--Mount
Carmel--Häifa--Carmelite convent--River Mkutta, the Kishon
of Scripture--Arrival at Acre 221

CHAPTER XII.

Increased illness of Yusef--Servants leave--Visit to Mâlem
Haym, minister of the pasha--His history--Description
of Acre--Visit to the pasha--Hospitality of
M. Catafago--Disposal of time--Excursion to
Nazareth--Franciscan convent--Residence and family of
M. Catafago--Villages and lands farmed out by him--The
Convent library--Arrival of Shaykh Ibrahim (Burckhardt),
the celebrated traveller--Visit to the plain of
Esdraëlon--Fûly--Battle of Fûly--Departure of Shaykh
Ibrahim for Egypt--Excursion to Segery--Visit to the
Shaykh--Bargain for a horse--Accident to Lady Hester 251

TRAVELS

OF

LADY HESTER STANHOPE.