Chapter I: Page

From Tunis to Tripoli 1

The First Start. — The Passage of the Syrtis. — Little Progress. — Trials of Temper. — Our Companions. — An Old Friend. — Reach Tripoli.

CHAP. II.

Tripoli. — The Plain and the Mountain-slope; the Arab and the
Berber 17

An Excursion. — Arab Encampments. — Commencement of the Hilly Region. — The Plateau. — Turkish Stronghold. — Berber Settlements. — The Picturesque Fountain. — Wádí Welád ʿAli. — Khalaifa. — Beautiful Ravine. — Um e’ Zerzán. — Enshéd e’ Sufét. — Roman Sepulchre. — Kikla. — Wádí Kerdemín. — Rabda. — Kasr Ghurián. — Mount Tekút. — Kasr Teghrínna. — Hanshír. — Wádí Rummána.

CHAP. III.

Fertile Mountain Region rich in ancient Remains 51

Wádí Rán. — Jebel Msíd. — Singular Monuments. — Structure Described. — Conjectural Character. — Other Ancient Ruins. — Approach to Tarhóna. — The Governor’s Encampment. — Ruins near ʿAín Shershára. — Kasr Dóga. — Kasr Dawán. — Jebel Msíd — Meselláta. — Kasr Kerker. — The Cinyps. — Leptis-Khoms.

CHAP. IV.

Departure for the Interior. — Arrival at Mizda. — Remains of a
Christian Church 85

The Departure. — ʿAín Zára. — Mejenín. — Wádí Haera. — The Boat crosses the Defile. — Ghurián. — Kuléba. — Roman Milestones. — Mizda. — The Eastern Village. — Jebel Durmán. — Wádí Sófejín. — Ruined Castle. — Christian Remains.

CHAP. V.

Sculptures and Roman Remains in the Desert. — Gharíya 112

Roman Sepulchre in Wádí Talha. — Wádí Tagíje. — Remarkable Monument. — Description of Monument. — Wádí Zemzem. — Roman Sepulchres at Taboníye. — Gharíya. — Roman Gateway. — Arab Tower. — Roman Inscription. — Gharíya e’ sherkíya. — The Hammáda. — Storms in the Desert. — End of the Hammáda. — El Hasi, “the Well.”

CHAP. VI.

Wádí Sháti. — Old Jerma. — Arrival in Múrzuk 143

Wádí Sháti, or Shiyáti. — Éderí and its Gardens. — Wádí Shiúkh. — Sandy Region. — Reach the Wádí. — Ugréfe. — Jerma Kadím. — The Last Roman Monument. — The Groves of the Wádí. — End of the Wádí. — Arrival at Múrzuk.

CHAP. VII.

Residence in Múrzuk 164

Delay. — Character of Múrzuk. — Ground-plan of Múrzuk.

CHAP. VIII.

The Desert. — Tasáwa. — Exactions of the Escort. — Delay
at Eláwen 171

Setting out from Múrzuk. — Tiggerurtín, the Village of the Tinýlkum. — Gathering of the Caravan. — Tasáwa. — Arrival of the Tawárek Chiefs. — Reformation of Islám. — Return to Múrzuk. — Move on finally. — Sháraba. — Wádí Aberjúsh. — Rate of Travelling. — Join the Caravan. — Tesémmak. — Wádí Eláwen. — Hatíta’s Intrigues.

CHAP. IX.

Singular Sculptures in the Desert. — The Mountain-pass 194

Hatíta. — Sculptures in Telísaghé. — Subject of Sculptures, Two Deities Fighting about a Bull. — Herd of Bulls. — Cattle formerly Beasts of Burden in the Desert. — Fine Valleys. — Breaking up of the Plateau. — The Narrow Gutter-like Pass of Ralle. — Téliya. — Sérdales. — Valley Tánesof. — Mount Ídinen. — The Traveller’s Mishap. — Astray in the Desert. — The Wanderer Found. — Arrival at Ghát.

CHAP. X.

The Indigenous Berber Population 223

Fezzán, a Berber Country. — The Berbers. — Their Real Name Mázígh; the Name Tawárek of Arab Origin. — The Azkár. — History of the Azkár. — The Hadánarang. — Degraded Tribes. — The Imghád. — The Kél. — View of the Valley of Ghát.

CHAP. XI.

Crossing a large Mountain-ridge, and entering on the open
gravelly Desert 241

The town of Bárakat. — The Date-groves of Bárakat and their Inhabitants. — Alpine Lake. — The Tawáti. — High Mountain-pass. — Deep Ravine of Égeri. — Threatened Attack. — Region of Granite Commences. — Desert Plain of Mariaw. — Afalésselez. — Approach to Tropical Climes. — Wild Oxen (“bagr el wahsh”) in the Desert. — Nghákeli, New Vegetation (_Balanites Ægyptiaca_).

CHAP. XII.

Dangerous Approach to Ásben 267

Picturesque Peak. — Valley of Arókam. — Caravan of Merábetín. — Aséttere. — The Guineaworm. — The Caravan (at Aísala). — Berber Inscription. — Ikadémmelrang. — Peculiar Mounts. — Marárraba, the Half-way. — Bóro’s Threats. — First View of Ásben. — Asëu. — Approach of the Enemy. — Valley Fénorang. — The Freebooters. — Timázkaren. — Máket-n-Íkelán, the Slaves’ Dance. — Continued Alarms. — The Valley of Jínninau. — Pleasant Valley of Gébi. — The _Capparis sodata_.

CHAP. XIII.

Inhabited but dangerous Frontier-region 297

Tághajít. — Character of the Borderers. — New Alarms. — Order of Battle. — Mohammed Bóro. — A Tardy Acknowledgment. — Formidable Threats. — The Compromise. — Mountains of Ásben. — Valley of Tídik. — Sad Disappointment. — Definitive Attack. — The Pillage. — _Cucifera Thebaïca_. — Selúfiet. — Tin-tagh-odé, the Settlement of the Merábetín. — Short State of Supplies. — A Desert Torrent. — Arrival of the Escort. — Valley of Fódet — Camel-Races. — Parting of Friends. — Valley of Afís. — New Troubles. — Arrival at Tintéllust. — The English Hill.

CHAP. XIV.

Ethnographical Relations of Aïr 335

The name Aïr or Ahír. — Country of the Goberáwa. — The Kél-owí. — Recent Conquest. — Descent in the Female Line. — Mixed Population. — Language. — Sections of the Kél-owí. — The Irólangh. — Tribe of the Sheikh Ánnur. — The Ikázkezan. — The Kél-n-Néggaru. — The Éfadaye. — League of the Kél-owí with the Kél-gerés and Itísan. — The Kél-fadaye. — The word “Mehárebí.” — The Kél-ferwán. — The Itísan and Kél-gerés. — Population of Ásben. — The Salt-trade.[5]

CHAP. XV.

Residence in Tintéllust 360

The Sheikh Ánnur’s Character. — Rainy Season. — Nocturnal Attack. — Want of Proper Food. — Preparations for Advance.

CHAP. XVI.

Journey to Ágades 370

Attempt at Bullock-riding. — Tawárek Blacksmiths. — The Double Horn of Mount Cheréka. — Ásodi and its Ruins. — Mounts Eghellál, Bághzen, and Ágata. — Mounts Belásega and Abíla. — The Valley Tíggeda. — The Picturesque Valley of Ásada. — The Valley of Tághist with the Ancient Place of Prayer. — Picturesque Valley of Aúderas with the Forest of Dúm-Palms. — Barbarity. — Valley Búdde. — The Natron. — The Feathered Bur. — Imghád of the Valleys. — Fertile Valley Bóghel. — The Large Báure-tree. — Arrival near Ágades. — The Troopers. — Entrance into the Town.

CHAP. XVII.

Ágades 397

The Retail Traders from Tawát. — The Learned ʿAbdallah. — Aspect of the Town. — The Sultan’s Quarter. — Interview with the Chief. — Mohammed Bóro’s House and Family. — Markets of Ágades. — Manufactures. — Native Cavalry. — View of the Town. — The Kádhi. — Interior of Ágades. — Various Visitors. — The “Fúra,” a Favourite Drink. — Manners and Customs. — A Misadventure. — Language of Ágades the same as that of Timbúktu. — My Friend Hamma. — The Fatal Dungeon. — Ceremony of Investiture. — The Procession. — Visitors. — Rumours of War. — On Rock-Inscriptions. — Visitors again. — Episode. — Parting with Bóro. — Tailelt (Guinea-fowl) Tobes. — Áshu’s Garden. — Letters from the Sultan. — Military Expedition. — Results of the Expedition. — Interior of a House. — The Emgedesi Lady. — Ruinous Quarter. — Wanton Manners. — The Mosque and Tower. — Interior of the Mosque. — Hostile Disposition of the Kádhi. — Other Mosques in Ágades. — Enlightened Views. — Preparations for Departure.

CHAP. XVIII.

History of Ágades 458

Ágades not Identical with Aúdaghost. — Meaning of the Name. — The Songhay Conqueror Háj Mohammed Askiá (Leo’s Ischia). — The Associated Tribes. — Leo’s Account of Ágades. — The Ighedálen. — Tegídda or Tekádda. — Gógó and the Ancient Gold-Trade. — Position of the Ruler of Ágades. — The Sultan and his Minister. — Meaning of the word “Turáwa.” — The Town, its Population. — Period of Decline. — Ground-Plan and Quarters of the Town. — Decline of Commerce. — Market Prices.

CHAP. XIX.

Departure from Ágades. — Stay in Tin-téggana 481

Abortive Commencement of Journey. — The Valley Tíggeda full of Life. — Tintéllust Deserted. — Arrival in Tin-téggana. — Stay in Tin-téggana. — Mohammed el Gatróni. — Turbulent State of the Country. — Conversation on Religion. — Poor Diet. — Prolonged Delay. — Preparations for Starting.

CHAP. XX.

Final Departure for Sudán 500

Taking Leave of Tin-téggana. — Trachytic Peak of Teléshera. — Valley of Tánegat. — The Salt-caravan. — Wild Manners of the Tawárek. — Mount Mári. — Richer Vegetation. — Well Álbes. — Tebu Merchants. — Chémia. — Mount Bághzen. — Camels lost. — Rich Valley Unán. — Stone Dwellings of Kél-gerés. — Christmas Day. — Taking Leave of Hamma.

CHAP. XXI.

The Border-region of the Desert. — The Tagáma 519

Travelling in earnest. — Home of the Giraffe and _Antilope leucoryx_. — The Mágariá. — The _Cornus nabeca_ and the Feathery Bristle. — Princely Present. — Animals (_Orycteropus Æthiopicus_). — The Tagáma; their Peculiar character. — The Tarki Beauty. — New Plants. — Steep Descent. — Ponds of Stagnant Water. — Corn-fields of Damerghú. — The Warlike Chief Dan Íbra. — Ungwa Sámmit. — Negro Architecture. — Name of the Hut in Various Languages. — Animal and Vegetable Kingdoms. — Horses grazing. — Arrival in Tágelel. — The Ikázkezan Freebooter. — Niggardliness of the Chief. — Towns and Villages of Damerghú. — The Haunts of the Freebooters. — Market of Tágelel. — The “Devil’s Dance.”

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