Chapter II: Preface: Page vii

CHAPTER I

THE COASTS OF THE FALKLAND ISLANDS

We leave Sweden: Visits to Buenos Aires and Montevideo: Arrive at the
Falkland Islands: Position: Port Stanley and its Social Life:
Communications: The Landscape round the Town: Cape Pembroke
Lighthouse and the Forest in the Sea: To the West Falklands: Wild
Cattle: The Falkland Fox: Adventure on Fox Island: Life on Remote
Islands: Roy Cove and the Tale of a Ship’s Adventure: Westpoint
Island: Tussock-grass: Bird Life: The Dead Forest Pp. 1-18

CHAPTER II

RIDING THROUGH THE FALKLANDS

Hill Cove, a Fine Settlement: Shepherds and their Life: Ascent of
Mount Adam: A Nocturnal Excursion: Saunders Island and a Page of
History: Valley of the Warrah River: A Dangerous Passage: Port
Howard: Across Country to Fox Bay: A miserable Christmas: Notes
on Geology: Lafonia and Port Darwin: A Ride to San Carlos: Return
Overland to Port Stanley: Port Louis and its History: Departure
Pp. 19-31

CHAPTER III

IN TIERRA DEL FUEGO

Punta Arenas: Babylonian Confusion: Preparations: Dawson Island and
the Salesian Mission Station: On the Shore of Lake Fagnano: Hardships
in the Azopardo Valley: The First Guanaco: We Pitch the Tents at
Fagnano: Pagels: The Betbeder Pass and Discoveries South of it: A
chilly awakening: Halle’s Excursion to Lake Deseado: Boat Trip
on Lake Fagnano: We Raise our Camp: A Difficult Embarking:
Back in Punta Arenas Pp. 32-61

CHAPTER IV

OTWAY WATER AND SKYRING WATER

Cape Froward: Jerome Channel: Patagonian Gold Fever: Along the
Shores of Otway: Notes on Vegetation: Fitzroy Channel: Storm:
A Solitary Hut: Traces of Indians: Excelsior and Glacier Sounds:
Gajardo Channel and a Perilous Boat Excursion: _Huemul_ Aground:
The Water of Skyring: Fossiliferous Beds: Another Tale of a Mine:
A Nocturnal Adventure: Saved Pp. 62-74

CHAPTER V

THE PATAGONIAN CHANNELS

Preparations: Captain Bordes: Our Indian Interpreter: The Magellan
Skärgård: On the Evangelistas Rocks: Unknown Waters: The Patagonian
Channels and their Nature: We meet the first Indians: Two
Tracks: The Penas Gulf: Baker Inlet: In the unknown Interior of
Peel Inlet: Back through Smyth Channel Pp. 75-90

CHAPTER VI

A DYING RACE

Our first Encounter with Aborigines: Appearance: Visit to an Indian
Camp: The Indian Wigwam: Food: Hunting and Weapons: Social
Customs: Treatment of the Women: Character: Nomadic Life:
Canoes: Travelling: Remarkable Portages: Language: Extermination:
Views of the Future Pp. 91-103

CHAPTER VII

CHILOÉ AND THE GULF OF CORCOVADO

Chiloé, Historical Retrospect: Ancud, the Capital: Schools: Power
of the Roman Catholic Church: The Chilotes and their Life: A Ride
to the Pacific Coast: Pudeto River: Primeval Forest of Chiloé: Castro:
Adventurous Voyage to Huafo Island: Forest Scenery: Wild Days:
To the Island of San Pedro in the Footsteps of Darwin: Quellon:
Corcovado, “el famoso”: The Yelcho Valley Pp. 104-124

CHAPTER VIII

IN THE HEART OF CHILE

To the Centre of Chile: Corral and Valdivia: Halle’s Surveys in the
Coal-mines of Arauco: Lota: Valparaiso: Santiago and its Swedish
Colony: Los Andes: The Uspallata Pass and the Transandine
Railway: Aconcagua: Baño del Inca: A Strange Descent: The
Great National Festival of Chile: To Port Montt Pp. 125-133

CHAPTER IX

ROBINSON CRUSOE’S ISLAND

The Islands of Juan Fernandez: Discovery and Position: First
Impression: Robinson’s “Look-out”: Wonderful Plant World: The Chonta
Palm: Marvellous Ferns: Extermination of a Unique Vegetation:
The Memorial Tablet of Alexander Selkirk, the real Robinson: The
History of the Sandal Tree: The last Sandal Tree: Robinson’s Grotto:
Bahia del Padre: Masafuera Island: Topography: Remarkable Plain:
Wild Goats: Marvellous Valleys: Our Scientific Results: The Future
of the Islands Pp. 134-148

CHAPTER X

ACROSS THE ANDES INTO ARGENTINA

Plans for the Return South: Notes on the Discoveries in Patagonia: The
Boundary Dispute between Chile and Argentina: We leave Port
Montt: Osorno and Calbuco Volcanoes: Lake Todos los Santos: On
the Glaciers of Mount Tronador: Across the Pass: Snowstorm:
Bariloche: Preparations for a Long Journey: Our Caravan and Equipment:
On Horseback Pp. 149-166

CHAPTER XI

THROUGH NORTHERN PATAGONIA

First Impression of the Pampas: Our First Camping-place: Norquinco:
Half the Caravan Disappears!: Inquiries: Across the River Chubut:
Life on the Lelej Farm: A Hearty Welcome: Ostriches and Guanacos:
Through the Nahuelpan Pass: 16th October Valley: Notes on Vegetation:
Along the Futaleufú River to the Chilean Boundary: South
Again: In the Valley of the River Carrenleufú: Another Bankrupt
Company and a Swedish Colonist Pp. 167-186

CHAPTER XII

THROUGH THE CORDILLERAS TO THE PACIFIC COAST

Salt Lagoons and Abundant Bird-life: The First “Meseta”: The Cisnes
Valley: Excursion to the Forest Region: Tuco-tuco and Patagonian
Deer: Senguerr River: No Water: Back in Chile: Lamb-marking:
The Coyaike Valley: The Aysen Company: To the Pacific Coast:
Luxuriant Rain-forest: Return to Aysen Pp. 187-197

CHAPTER XIII

LAKE BUENOS AIRES

The Swamp of Rio Mayo: Meseta Chalia, an Adventurous Passage: Floating
Soil and Tuco-tucos: A Dangerous Descent: The Puma: Valle
Koslowsky: A Singular Telegraph Office: The Landscape round Lake
Buenos Aires: In the Fenix Valley: Interesting Vegetation: Hunting
Young Guanacos: Patagonian Fur-trade: Armadillos: Ruckel’s
Peril: Difficulties in the Jeinemeni Valley: Ascent of the Mountain
ridge at Zeballos River Pp. 198-220

CHAPTER XIV

LAGO BELGRANO

The Zeballos Pass: Natural Features at Lake Pueyrredon: Troublesome
Ascent: In the Tarde Valley: Across to Belgrano River: Unexpected
Encounter with German Colonists: Our Sin against the Eighth
Commandment: Christmas: We Start on the Lake: Contrary Winds:
On the Lake Azara: Glorious Mountain Scenery: A Happy New Year!
We strike Camp Pp. 221-238

CHAPTER XV

LAKE SAN MARTÍN

Across the High Pampas: Crossing the Rivers Belgrano and Lista: The
Troublesome Tuco-tuco Rivulet: Through the Forest to Carbon
River: The Fósiles Pass, our Worst Day: Lake San Martín: Start
with a Berthon Boat: Head Wind: In the Northern Arm: The
Schoenmeyr Glacier: Imminent Peril: “Galley-slavery”: Farewell
to San Martin Pp. 239-257

CHAPTER XVI

ACROSS THE SIERRA DE LOS BAQUALES

The Swamps round Laguna Tar: An Unexpected Encounter: Pavo and
the Skunk: On the shores of Lake Viedma: Leona River and a Dead
Landscape: With Carlos Fuhr: The Ferry-boat on Santa Cruz River:
Visit to Cattle’s Farm: A Lady Gaucho: The Baguales Range: Back
to Civilisation!: Notes on the History of South Patagonia Pp. 258-271

CHAPTER XVII

LAGO ARGENTINO

Quensel’s Boat Journey in 1908: The Start and Equipment: Squally
Weather: Bismarck Glacier, a Splendid Sight: Large Icebergs: With
a Canvas Boat in the Ice: To the North Arm: Hell Gate: A Dangerous
Landing: A Narrow Escape: Upsala Glacier: Another Clean Shave:
Back again with Rich Results Pp. 272-277

CHAPTER XVIII

OUR JOURNEY TO PUNTA ARENAS

Estancia Payne: Importunate Foxes: Cerro Payne, Patagonia’s most
Beautiful Mountain: Quensel’s Excursion in 1907: Cerro Donoso:
A Bad Day and a Worse Night: Tame Deer: In the Payne Mountains:
The White Stag: A Picnic Party: My Excursion to the Inland Ice:
A Heavy March: Ultima Esperanza: The Eberhard Family: The
Maylodon Cave: A Night’s Ride: We part with our Horses: Arrival
at Punta Arenas Pp. 278-295

CHAPTER XIX

THE BEAGLE CHANNEL

Back in the Channels: The Brecknock Pass: Wonderful Glaciers: Lapataia
and Lake Acigami: The Mission in Douglas Bay: The Last Yahgans:
Notes on Geology: Ushuaia: Bridges’ Farm: Slogget Bay and Gold-digging
in Tierra del Fuego: Another Boundary Dispute: Return to
Punta Arenas and to Buenos Aires Pp. 296-313