Chapter XIV: Part V: Greece (3)

The most important incident that has occurred upon the Acropolis in recent times, and it has a personal interest for us, was the discovery in 1900 by Mr. Eugene P. Andrews of Oswego, New York, then a student at the American School of Classical Studies and now an instructor at Cornell University, of an inscription to Nero upon the architrave of the Parthenon, which had been unknown for a dozen centuries. It was a great achievement, one of the most notable events in modern archeology. He thought that certain small holes in the marble must have served some useful purpose, and so he let himself down from the top by a rope ladder similar to those that sailors use, and discovered that they had once been occupied by nails which supported brass letters. By taking a series of impressions with damp wrapping-paper, he secured a diagram, from which he was able to trace the Greek letters, and the inscription, which had never been suspected, was announced to the scholars of the world by Professor Richardson, the director of the American school.

The American Archeological Institute has a school in Athens similar to that in Rome, which was founded several years later. The object is to furnish American scholars an opportunity to study art, archeology, ancient history, literature and the classic languages upon the ground and in the atmosphere in which they were developed.

He who would the poet understand
Most read him in the poet’s land.

I may not have the quotation exact, but that is the idea. In addition to the branches of study I have named, the students hear lectures on Greek law, religion, philosophy and upon all subjects dealing with the institutions, the social life and the industrial activity of the ancients. They are conducted about the country to various points of historic and archeological interest, such as Thebes, Delphi, Olympia, Mycenae, Sparta and Thessaly, and are allowed to tread in the footsteps of the old philosophers. They hear lectures in the museums, which are illustrated by object-lessons. The museums of Athens are particularly rich in relics of the archaic period of Greece--before the Persian war, 480 B.C.--and the director gives that branch his special attention. Other members of the faculty lecture on history, poetry, politics and kindred subjects. The students also have the advantage of similar institutions founded by the English, French, German and Austrian governments. All the national schools of archeology are affiliated, and each has its special line of investigation, selected after a consultation, in order that they may not interfere with or duplicate the work of each other. The American school is the strongest of all, the French next, then the German, and last the English. The German school, however, is particularly fortunate in having for its director Dr. Doerpfeld, who succeeded Dr. Schliemann in the archeological work at Troy. The students of one school are admitted to the lectures of the others and also have the use of their libraries. Most of them are fitting themselves for instructors in Greek and archeology, and nearly all of the graduates since the school was founded in 1882 now occupy chairs in the faculties of American colleges and universities.

The present director is Professor Richardson, who was graduated from Yale in the class of ’69, and was for a long time professor of Greek language and literature at Dartmouth College. He has been at Athens since 1893. Each year an assistant is selected from one of the contributing colleges. Professor Thomas Day Seymour, of Yale, was chairman of the Managing Committee of the school for fourteen years, but recently has been succeeded by Professor Wheeler, of Columbia. Part of its income is precarious, consisting of contributions from various colleges and private individuals, and if they should withdraw it would leave the institution without funds. There ought to be a larger endowment, so as to secure permanency. At present the endowment amounts to about $65,000. The society owns a fine building, well adapted to its purposes, and a considerable area of ground which may be found available in the future. Among the most generous donors for excavations is Colonel Hay, secretary of state, who has recently placed a considerable sum of money in the hands of the trustees, to be used as a foundation for the library in memory of his son, the late Adelbert Stone Hay. There is no limit to the number of students. Anyone is received who has had a thorough classical training at an American college. It is important that applicants should gain as great command as possible of the German, French and modern Greek languages before entering the school in order that they may enjoy the full benefit of their opportunities. The tuition fee is nominal, and the cost of living at Athens is anything that one may choose to make it. At the large hotels board and lodging can be obtained for $14 a week and upward, and at the smaller hotels and in private families, from $5 and upward. Six fellowships with stipends of $600 each, and one with a stipend of $1,000, will be awarded annually, upon competitive examination, to bachelors of art of the universities and colleges of the United States, and may be extended for two years, upon the recommendation of the faculty, to students in the Schools of Classical Studies at Athens and in Rome, and in the School of Oriental Study in Palestine--all under the general care of the Archeological Institute of America.

The fellows are required to pursue original investigations and twice a year to report the results.

Everyone can appreciate the advantages offered by the American school to those who are seeking a career as scholars or instructors. It gives a vitality to their learning which they cannot get in books, and the same books read in Greece are much more luminous than in the class-rooms at home. The original work done by the students is also of great importance to them, and it is gratifying to know that this institution has taken the lead and is recognized as the most important among the several national colleges at Athens. The Greek government is liberal in its encouragement and the king feels a deep interest in all its concerns.

Original work has been going on since 1886, and the results of the excavations may be seen in the National Museum, at the Argive Heraeum, at Athens, and in a volume recently published by Professor Waldstein, now lecturer at King’s College, Cambridge, who was the director for some years. Some of the most interesting of the explorations have been at Icaria, the first seat of the worship of Bacchus, and the home of Thespis, the inventor of the theater. He was the first man to present a play to the public. There had been recitations and declamations upon the platform before his time, but he introduced dialogues and plots, and invented the mask so that one man-actor could take two parts. Women never appeared on the stage in those days. The feminine parts were always taken by men. The director of the American school discovered the original home of Thespis and it was excavated under his direction. The Americans were not allowed, however, to take anything away. Under the laws of Greece the finder is protected in publishing reports of his discoveries, and may receive the honor and the credit, but the tangible results are the property of the government or of the owner of the land, who, however, to retain them, must erect a museum upon the ground for their public exhibition.

The American School has done a good deal of work at Plataea, the scene of a great battle between the Greeks and the Persians in 479 B.C., but found little of value. The excavations were more successful at Eretria, at one time an important city, which was destroyed by the Persians before the battle of Marathon. Here they uncovered a theater, a temple to Bacchus, a fine lot of baths, and the most perfect gymnasium that has ever been found.

Near Argos the American School, under Dr. Waldstein, discovered and excavated the ruins of a magnificent temple of Hera, which was destroyed in the year 423 B.C., when one of the priestesses went to sleep without blowing out her candle; the decorations caught fire and the temple was burned. This was a rich find, for, in addition to the temple, they uncovered several other buildings of interest, and brought to the National Museum at Athens a number of valuable statues and a large quantity of bronze and terra-cotta work.

The excavations of the American students at Corinth I have referred to in a previous chapter. They began work there in 1896, and will continue in a systematic manner until the old city is entirely uncovered and opened to the public, as Pompeii is to-day. Old Corinth was a very populous city, larger than Athens, and, at the height of its glory in 325 B.C., had a population of nearly 200,000, with many magnificent structures, which suffered from earthquakes, and were plundered and destroyed by the Romans and other invaders. Julius Caesar rebuilt a portion of the old city, but it was again destroyed by his successors, and finally disappeared and was covered from the sight of men by the drifting sands. The American School has purchased part of the site, and, with the encouragement of the Greek government, is working as rapidly as its funds will permit; but is entirely dependent, as I have said, upon the generosity of private supporters. The German Institute receives $5,000 a year from its government for excavations; the French have an even larger allowance, and the English are spending large sums. The American explorers alone lack funds, yet from them the most important results are expected.

Mars Hill, from which Paul delivered the eloquent address of which we have an account in Chapter xvii of the Acts of the Apostles, beginning, “Ye men of Athens, I perceive that in all things ye are very religious”--not “too superstitious,” as the old version has it--stands across a little gully from the Acropolis at Athens. It was then occupied by the Athenian courts, called the Areopagus, and the learned men, lawyers, philosophers, teachers and orators of the city met there every day to exchange ideas and talk politics. The ancient court of the Areopagus, composed of the most venerable and eminent Athenians, and exercising supreme jurisdiction in certain cases involving life, sat there regularly to hear arguments and announce their decisions. The hill is said to have derived its name from the fact that Ares, or Mars, was the first person tried there for murder. It was there also that Orestes was arraigned and acquitted of criminal responsibility for the murder of his mother, Clytemnestra. Many other famous trials took place upon the hill. Lawyers were never allowed to appear before an Athenian court, still less the Areopagus. Every man had to plead his own case.

St. Paul appeared upon the Areopagus five hundred and twenty years after the birth of Socrates and three hundred and seventy years after the death of Demosthenes, but Greece was still filled with learned men. Upon its stage the masterpieces of Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides and Aristophanes were first presented to the public.

Phaleron, the summer-resort of the Athenians upon the bay, where there are several hotels and bathing establishments and a little villa for the pleasure of the royal family, is the place where Demosthenes used to go to practice speaking. It was there, according to the legend, that he picked up pebbles and put them under his tongue to prevent him from stammering.

Near by are two tombs hewn in the living rock, accessible at low tide but often submerged by the sea. One of them is popularly believed to be the tomb of Themistocles, one of the greatest men of ancient Greece, who persuaded his fellow citizens to devote the proceeds of the silver mine of Laurion to the construction of a naval fleet, which made Athens for a time preëminent upon the sea. But this fleet did not last very long, and Athens absolutely had her ships taken from her at the close of the fifth century B.C.

Across the bay is the island of Salamis, the scene of one of the most famous sea battles in all history, when Xerxes, King of Persia, witnessed the destruction of his fleet of one thousand vessels from a rocky promontory which projects into the bay. The point is called “the throne of Xerxes.” The poet Aeschylus was on one of the ships and distinguished himself in the battle. Eight years later, in March, 472, his tragedy, based upon it, was performed in the theater of Dionysus at Athens.

Socrates was born in Athens in the year 469 B.C. He was originally a sculptor, but abandoned art and became an astrologer. He afterwards taught in the market-place, surrounded by his students and disciples, and it was to them that he delivered the opinions which brought him into collision with the authorities, and particularly the priests. The trial of Socrates was similar to that of Christ. Both were accused of sedition, of denying the gods, of introducing a new religion, of corrupting the minds of the youth and disturbing the tranquillity of the people. Socrates was arraigned for this crime before the courts, as Christ was before the Sanhedrin. Both admitted the truth of the charge, while they denied the criminality. The answer of Socrates to his accusers was almost the same as that of Jesus before Pilate, four hundred years later. He was convicted, however, and condemned to die. Owing to a superstition about putting men to death during a festival, the execution of his sentence was postponed, and in the meantime he drank his cup of hemlock juice. Near the Areopagus are two chambers about sixteen feet square, hewn in the side of a rocky cliff. They are divided by a partition with a narrow door and are protected by gratings of iron bars, like the cage of a wild beast. The guide-book calls them “the prison of Socrates,” and it is generally understood among the people that he was imprisoned and died there, but there is no evidence to sustain such a supposition.

Demosthenes had a country home on the other side of Mount Hymettus, which is as famous for its honey to-day as it was two thousand years ago. The wild flowers that grow in the soil of that mountain contain an unusual amount of saccharine and give a flavor to the honey which is not found in that made elsewhere. The ancient Greeks considered it a great luxury, and it still sustains its reputation and is sold to-day in all the markets of Europe for high prices. Tourists buy it at the hotels and curiosity-shops of Athens.

Demosthenes was the son of a rich furniture-dealer, and was a statesman, lawyer, orator and patriot. He lived nearly a century after Socrates, and in the year 322 B.C., when the Macedonians secured control of the government, fled from Athens across the sea into the Peloponnesus. There he was followed by an officer of the police with a warrant for his arrest. Demosthenes was prepared for him and received him in the temple of Poseidon in Calauria. Rather than suffer the humiliation of trial and imprisonment, he decided to take his own life. Suspecting such an intention, the authorities ordered the police officials to take precautions to prevent suicide, and they watched him very closely. After the arrest was made Demosthenes asked the officers to allow him to write a note to his family, and sat down at his desk to do so. It was noticed that he frequently moistened the tip of his pen with his lips, and when the note was finished he fell lifeless from his seat. The ink had been poisoned.

The field of Marathon, where the great battle with the Persians was fought in 490 B.C., about twenty-five miles from Athens, is marked by a great mound, under which the bones of the slain were buried.

Tanagra, where, in 455 B.C., the Athenians first measured strength and valor with the Spartans, is a little further north and has been one of the most prolific sources of satisfaction to archeologists. From the graves around it have come those charming figurines in painted terra-cotta that are so highly prized by collectors. The quantity of figures discovered there during the excavations has been so great that fine examples are now to be found in nearly every museum, and tourists can purchase for a small sum imitations largely made up of the fragments, which are quite as pretty as the genuine.

West from Tanagra is Thebes, a famous old town founded by Cadmus, the home of Pindar, the poet, and Epaminondas, the soldier and statesman. It was the rival of Athens until Alexander the Great sacked it in 336 B.C., when six thousand of the citizens were slain and thirty thousand carried away as slaves. It is now a sleepy little town of about twenty-five hundred inhabitants who grow fruit and do other kinds of farming. The ruins of the ancient town are covered with rubbish and the topography has been considerably changed by earthquakes. There is no hotel, and very little to interest the traveler.

From Thebes one can go west to Delphi, the seat of the famous oracle and the headquarters of the cult of Apollo, but it is a difficult and uncomfortable journey, requiring several days on horseback. The easier route is from Corinth by boat, twice a week, to a little town called Itea. From there to Delphi is only a ride of two and a half hours. The grandeur of the scenery and the magnificent view of Parnassus are full compensation for the time and fatigue, and even in these modern times the gorges in the mountains are filled with a mysterious atmosphere which must have affected the imagination of the ancients. The oracle was consulted, you remember, upon all affairs of importance, both by the people and the state, and its influence was not diminished by the ambiguity of its utterances. The voice of the oracle came from a chasm in the rocks which can not be identified these days, probably because of earthquakes. Above the chasm the prophetic virgin sat upon a golden tripod and uttered responses which none but the priests could understand. Altogether the oracle was a good scheme and its influence was wholesome among the people. Solon, the great law-giver; Plato, the philosopher; Aeschylus, Pindar, and Sophocles all spoke of it with great respect.

Modern Delphi is called Castri, and stands on part of the ancient site, at an altitude of twenty-one hundred and thirty feet above the gulf of Corinth and among the cliffs of Parnassus. There has been an enormous amount of excavating done there by the French School of Archeology which has been rewarded by many interesting and important discoveries.

The classic mountain Parnassus, which rises eight thousand and seventy feet, may be comfortably climbed from Delphi, the ascent being made most of the way on horseback. Every foot of the journey is crowded with historic and mythical associations.

The pass of Thermopylae, known to every schoolboy as the place where Leonidas and his three hundred Spartans held the whole Persian army at bay, is thirty miles in a straight line directly north from Delphi, on the other side of Parnassus, but nearly three times that distance by the circuitous route which must be traveled. There are no roads and it takes several days to make the journey on horseback. The pass is a narrow ravine or defile between two wooded hills and its strategic advantages are perfectly apparent, although the guide-books say that a rocky eminence which formerly overhung the defile has been thrown down by earthquakes and the gorge has been considerably filled up by alluvial deposits brought down by mountain torrents, so that the present appearance of the pass gives very little idea of what it must have been. It resembles hundreds of similar gorges in Colorado and other parts of the Rocky Mountains. Here Leonidas detained the Persian army under Xerxes until the Greeks were able to make a safe retreat. The exact spot was afterwards marked by a monument with this inscription:

STRANGER, TELL THE SPARTANS THAT WE ARE
LYING HERE IN OBEDIENCE TO
THEIR COMMANDS.

Due north from Thermopylae is the famous Mount Olympus, 9,754 feet high, the home of the gods, which, unfortunately, is now on Turkish soil, much to the sorrow and mortification of the Greeks. If they had their territorial rights they would still include that noble peak within their jurisdiction.

Mount Ossa, 6,398 feet high, lies immediately south of Olympus; Mount Pelion is farther to the south, rising 5,308 feet above the sea.

Going westward from Athens, crossing the peninsula by railroad to Corinth, and then turning southward for fifteen or sixteen miles, we come to Mycenae, which was the scene of so much activity in mythological times, but its importance dwindled long before the dawn of history. It was founded by Perseus, who raised the massive walls of the city with the aid of the Cyclops. Agamemnon, the great soldier, had his seat there, and was not only the ruler of that district but the chieftain of all the Greeks, of the islands as well as the mainland. He led them against Troy and after his return was murdered by Aegisthos, the lover of his wife, Clytemnestra. Although Orestes, his only son, avenged his father’s death and his mother’s shame, when he grew up, the legends do not tell us that he regained the throne.

The tomb of the great Grecian chieftain is well preserved and is one of the most striking examples of ancient masonry. It is a sort of underground temple in the shape of a bee-hive, fifty feet high, and near it is another vaulted sepulcher, supposed to have been the tomb of Clytemnestra. Extensive excavations have been made at Mycenae by Grecian archeologists under the direction of Dr. Schliemann, who disclosed to the world the ruins of Troy. It is one of the most interesting places in Greece.

Near the western boundary of Peloponnesus is Olympia, the scene of the celebrated games, which may be reached by railway from Patras, the western port of the Gulf of Corinth, more easily than from Athens. It was never properly a town, but was a group of temples, shrines, palaces, amphitheaters and public buildings where the entire Hellenic world used to assemble periodically, for more than a thousand years, and engage in semi-sacred games founded by Hercules in the mythical ages. The Olympic games reached their greatest importance immediately after the Persian wars, when they were partially divested of their religious character and became a national festival in honor of Hellenic unity. Competitors came from all the states, the islands and the colonies of greater Greece; the functions lasted for five days, and a list of the victors was kept in the archives of the state. The record begins B.C. 776 and is continued for several centuries after the Roman occupation. The winners enjoyed life-long distinction, were entertained annually at banquets and festivals at the public expense, and were exempt from taxation.

During the Roman period Tiberius and Nero themselves engaged in the games, but about the third century after Christ athletic sports were degraded by the entrance of professionals, and became a trade. The Olympic games were finally suppressed by the Roman Emperor Theodosius in the year 394.

Extensive excavations have been made at Olympia by the Germans, who have spent several hundred thousand dollars uncovering the ruins of temples, palaces and amphitheaters which were buried from fifteen to twenty feet deep under deposits of sand and gravel, washed down by cloud-bursts and floods from the mountains, which also undermined the walls of the Hippodrome, the Stadium and other of the ancient structures. The interest in the excavations at one time was as great as that excited at Pompeii, but very little of artistic interest was found.

Still south of Olympia, near the extreme end of the peninsula, is the old town of Sparta, which is still the capital of the province of Laconia, and a place of considerable importance. The remains of ancient Sparta, however, are scanty and insignificant and, although the modern town is beautifully located, it is said to be very unhealthy. There is a museum there containing a large collection of antiquities, and several of great importance. The guides show you an open plain, surrounded with ditches, where the youthful Spartans used to wage their mimic warfare. They show you also a rectangular enclosure of massive stones which they claim to be the ruins of the tomb of Leonidas, and several other fictitious scenes of interest.

For the classical scholar, the historian, the archeologist, and lovers of the picturesque, there is no country more abundant in interest than Greece, and although the accommodations are primitive and the means of transportation are limited, even the shortest visit to the country will be full of gratification. Greece is now only four days from London and three days from Paris, and in these times, when many people have exhausted the novelties of northern Europe, they will find the classic grounds of the Hellenic peninsula a most satisfactory place of resort. Excepting Japan, southern Italy and the Tyrol, no country compares with Greece in the beauty of its landscapes. The remarkable purity of the atmosphere at Athens enhances the effect of artificial as well as natural objects of interest. As in Arizona, distances are very deceptive. Far-off mountains are brought close to the eye as with a field-glass, and as you approach them they recede in a most provoking way. Hymettus and Pentelikos, the two famous mountains which lie on either side of Athens, are often enveloped in a curious pink glow at sunset, and then, as the flame fades out of the sky, they take on a deep violet tinge. The Greek sunset is something that cannot be represented on canvas. Artists and poets rave about it, but it is beyond their power to reproduce.

It is not a land for luxurious people, however. The climate is more to be recommended than the hotels, but the natural scenery has a variety, a richness and a color that no other part of Europe affords. The foliage and the flowers are abundant and beautiful, and in the rural districts the people are picturesque in manners, customs and dress. Their habits and social life have not been affected by what we call the advances of modern civilization. In public conveniences, however, Greece is still far behind the times. Athens is the only place where the hotels are tolerable, and travelers who go into the interior must take their own provisions and bedding. Even those who make little excursions by carriage for a single day in the neighborhood of Athens must carry a lunch-basket, because the inns are primitive and filthy. Railway facilities are limited. With a few exceptions the roads are bad, but they are gradually improving, and several of the centers of great interest to tourists may now be reached by carriage. Only a few years ago travelers had to go on horseback or on foot, as they do in the Holy Land. Even now those who visit some of the most interesting places have to put up with discomforts, inconveniences and a good deal of dirt and bad smells, although they are fully repaid.

FINIS.

INDEX

Abduction, Prince Alexander of Bulgaria, 174

Abdul Aziz, 67

Abdul Hamid II, 54

Abdul Medjid, 67

Abraham, Founder of the Turkish Race, 55

Acropolis of Athens, 369

Adossides, George, 62

Adriatic Coast, 303

Agamemnon, Tomb of, 384

Agriculture in Bulgaria, 194
in Bosnia, 290
in Servia, 261
in Greece, 342, 363

Alexander the Great, 14

Alexander of Battenberg, 169, 174, 186, 196

Alexander of Servia, 248

Alexander II. of Russia, 167, 173, 207

Alexander III. of Russia, 173

Alix, Czarina, 251

Americans in Bulgaria, 209

American Board of Foreign Missions, 142, 148, 209, 224

American School at Athens, 328, 372

Anarchy in Bosnia, 274

Andrews, Eugene P., Discovery by, 372

Archaeological Institute, American, 328, 372

Architecture of Constantinople, 94

Areopagus, the, 379

Armenians in Constantinople, 103

Armenian Massacres, 161

Army, Bosnian, 280
Bulgarian, 200
Servian, 260, 269
Turkish, 84

Assassination of Stambouloff, 182

Assassinations of Sultans, 55, 67

Athens, Modern, 332
Streets of, 333
Climate of, 333
Parks of, 334
Public Buildings of, 357
the Acropolis of, 369
Riots in, 349

Athletic Sports in Greece, 360

Atrocities, Bulgarian, 14, 27, 167

Attar of Roses, 194, 207

Auctions in Constantinople, 124

Austria, Political Attitude of, 17, 34

Austrian Soldiers in Bosnia, 280
Administration in Bosnia, 273

Baird, Rev. Dr., 234

Bakhmeteff, Mr., Russian Agent, Sofia, 185, 216

Baldwin I., 190

Bazaars of Constantinople, 119
of Sarajevo, 284

Beet-Sugar in Bosnia, 290

Belgrade, City of, 257

Berlin Conference 1878, 14, 27, 273, 304

Beyler Bey Palace, 132

Bible in Turkish, 152, 212

Biography of Sultan, 62

Blackmail in Macedonia, 228
in Turkey, 46

Bosnia, Development of, 296
Population of, 276
Regeneration of, 273
Soldiers, 281

Boundaries of Bulgaria, 193

Bosphorus, the, 91, 105, 142

Bribery in Turkey, 97

Bridges, Constantinople, 40, 107

Brigandage in Macedonia, 227

Brindisi, Port of, 311

Brothers, the Sultan’s, 68

Bulgaria, Conditions in, 20
History, 165, 195
Relation to European Politics, 166, 171

Business in Turkey, 57, 96, 110, 120

Byron, Lord, 360

Castles on the Bosphorus, 143

Castle at Belgrade, 267

Cattaro, Town of, 303

Cattle in Bosnia, 290
Servian, 261

Cemeteries, Turkish, 112

Censorship in Turkey, 154

Ceremonies, Mohammedan, 82, 136

Chambers, the Sultan’s, 76

Churches, Protestant in Turkey, 149
in Bosnia, 281

Children, Sultan’s, 72, 85

Cistern of 1,001 Pillars, 161

Cities of Bulgaria, 193

Civilization, Early, in Balkans, 13

Clark, Rev. Mr., 224

Classic Spirit of Greece, 335

Clytemnestra, Tomb of, 385

Coat of Arms, Turkish, 53

Coffee-Houses, Turkish, 47

College for Girls, Scutari, 153

Commerce of Constantinople, 111

Concessions, German, in Turkey, 18

Conference, Berlin, of 1878, 14, 27, 273, 304

Consular Trials in Turkey, 156

Conspiracies in Turkey, 56
in Servia, 250

Constantinople, Picturesqueness, 91
Filth of, 40

Corfu, Island of, 312
Population of, 315
Climate of, 315

Corinth, Gulf of, 318, 325
Ancient, 322
Modern, 322
Canal of, 322
Excavations at, 328

Corruption among Turkish Officials, 97

Costumes, Servian, 263
Bulgarian, 198
Greek, 319

Cosmopolitan Population of Constantinople, 101, 107

Courts in Bosnia, 289
Turkish, 157

Cowardice of Sultan, 55

Crescent as a Symbol, 53

Crime in Bosnia, 274
in Greece, 340

Crown Prince of Greece, 351

Currant Culture in Greece, 318

Custom House, Constantinople, 97, 111
Belgrade, 257

Customs of Bosnia, 279, 287

Dalmatian Coast, 303

Damascus, Political Exiles in, 60

Danube River, the, 191

Dardanelles, the, 91

Delphi, the Oracle of, 382

Demosthenes, Home of, 380

Dickinson, Consul-General, 222, 230, 234

Diocletian, Palace of, 306

Diogenes, Home of, 328

Diplomatic Protests to Turkey, 18

Dishonesty in Turkey, 41, 97

Dogs of Constantinople, 113

Dolma-Baghtcheh Palace, 69, 131, 135

Dorys, George, Biographer of Sultan, 62

Draga, Queen of Servia, 248

Education in Bulgaria, 200, 213
in Greece, 338

Education in Servia, 265
in Turkey, 152

Editors in Turkey, 154

Electricity Forbidden in Turkey, 61

Embassies in Constantinople, 95, 158

Emigration from Greece, 355

England, Attitude of, 14, 34

Eunuchs, Turkish, 85

Excavations at Corinth, 328
Agamemnon’s Tomb, 384
Bosnia, 295
Delphi, 382
Diocletian’s Palace, 306
Mycenae, 384
Olympia, 385
the Acropolis, 369
Thebes, 382
Tanagra, 381

Exiles, Turkish, 59

Extra-Territoriality, 156

Eyub, Mosque of, 89

Fanaticism, Religious, 26

Ferdinand, Prince of Bulgaria, 178, 184, 197
Children of, 186

Firemen of Constantinople, 116

Football in Turkey, Dangers of, 58

Foreigners in Constantinople, 97

France, Political Attitude, 19

Franchises in Bosnia, 296

Fruits in Bulgaria, 207

Fuad, Pasha, 59

Funerals, Greek, 367

Galata, City of, 93

Gargiulo, Mr., 232

George, King of Greece, 313, 346, 351

Germany, Political Attitude of, 17, 34

Gladstone and Bulgaria, 167
and Greece, 314

Golden Horn, 36, 92

Government, Turkish System of, 35, 49, 97, 102

Grant, General, 64

Green Vaults of Constantine, 137

Greeks in Constantinople, 104

Greek Church in Constantinople, 352
in Bulgaria, 186
in Bosnia, 296

Greece, Climate of, 387
Costume of Natives, 319
Crime in, 340
Currant Culture, 318
Education in, 338
Hotels of, 387
Journey to, 312
Newspapers of, 338
Olive Trees in, 319
Peasants, 343, 363
Politics, 336, 346
Population, 362
Prisons, 342
Professions, 343
Railways, 311
Society, 337

Guilds in Turkey, 121

Habits, Turkish, 45, 109

Hadji, Rank of, 51

Hamlin, Dr. Cyrus, 146

Harem, The Sultan’s, 64, 70, 85

Haskell, Rev. Dr., 234

Hassan Pasha, 37

Heir to Servian Throne, 251
to Turkish Throne, 68

Helena, Queen of Italy, 252

Hellespont, the, 92

Historical Review, 13

Homer’s School at Stavros, 316

Holy Banner, Bosnian, 55, 136

Holy Mantle, 40, 55, 136

Hotel at Belgrade, 259

Hotels, Government, in Bosnia, 297

Horses, Bulgarian, 201
in Constantinople, 111
the Sultan’s, 88

House, Rev. John Henry, 211, 217, 232

Household, the Sultan’s, 79, 68, 85

Hymettus, Mount, 380

Intemperance in Turkey, 46

Ismet Bey, Sultan’s Foster-Brother, 75

Ithaca, Island of, 313

Jajce, Bosnia, 301

Janissaries, 135

Jews in Bosnia, 299
in Bulgaria, 203
in Servia, 264
in Constantinople, 104

John, St., of Ryle, 186

Justice, Turkish, 157

Kallay, Count von, Administration of, in Bosnia, 273

Kalpak, Bulgarian Headdress, 209

Karageorgeovitch Family, 244, 253

Kassuroff, Mrs. Ivan B., 214

Khans of Constantinople, 119

Kidnaping in Macedonia, 227

Kindergarten in Sofia, 212

Labor Unions in Turkey, 121

Lamsdorff, Count, 251

Land Laws in Bosnia, 289

Language, Bulgarian, 194
Modern Greek, 348
Servian, 266

Law Schools in Bosnia, 294

Law, Turkish, 157

Leishman, Minister, 232

Leonidas, Battle of, 382

Ludskanoff, Bulgarian Minister, 183

Luke, St., Tomb of, 302

Macedonia, Conditions in, 15, 30, 168

Macedonian Committee, 26, 239

Mahmoud Pasha, 69, 314

Manufacturing in Bosnia, 292

Marathon, Battle of, 381

Marco Bozzaris, 360

Mark Antony, Scene of Battle, 315

Market at Belgrade, 261

Marmora, Sea of, 91

Mars Hill, 378

Marsh, Rev. Geo. L., 211

Massacres, Armenian, 41, 103, 161
in Bosnia, 293
in Bulgaria, 15, 27, 31
in Macedonia, 15, 30, 168

Mecca, Pilgrimages to, 51, 83

Methodists in Bulgaria, 210

Metkovic, Town of, 304

Michael, King of Servia, 245, 269

Milan, King of Servia, 247

Milos, King of Servia, 245

Military Policy in Bosnia, 281

Minarets of Constantinople, 93

Mirko, Prince of Montenegro, 251

Missionaries in Constantinople, 148

Mohammedans Converted to Christianity, 151

Mohammedan Fanaticism, 26, 44, 49, 63, 188
Religion, 43, 54, 83, 112, 286

Monastery of Ryle, 186

Mosques of Constantinople, 82, 94, 111, 118, 126, 136

Mosques of Sarajevo, 286

Montenegro, Royal Family of, 251, 303

Moulahs, 43

Mountains of Bosnia, 278

Murad V., 67

Music, Sultan’s Love of, 77

Mycenae, 384

Natalie, Queen of Servia, 247

Naturalized Americans in Turkey, 100

Navy, Turkish, 36

Nephews, the Sultan’s, 71

Newspapers, the Sultan’s Ideas of, 80
in Turkey, 154
Greek, 338

Odyssey, Scenes of the, 316

Oil of Roses, 207

Olga, Queen of Greece, 348

Olive Trees in Greece, 319

Olympia, Games of, 385

Orient Express, 191

Ossa, Mount, 384

Ottoman Bank Affair, 42

Palace at Athens, 333
Belgrade, 260
Beyler-Bey, 132
Dolma-Baghtcheh, 69, 131, 135
Tcheragan, 67
Yildiz Kiosk, 55, 79, 131

Parliament, Bulgarian, 170
of Greece, 345

Parnassus, Mount, 324, 383

Parthenon, the, 369

Passports in Turkey, 100

Patras, Town of, 317

Patrick, Miss Mary M., 153

Paul, St., at Corinth, 330

Peasants in Bulgaria, 204
Greek, 325, 343

Peddlers in Constantinople, 110

Peet, W. W., 232

Pelion, Mount, 384

Pentelikos, Quarries of, 332

Pera, City of, 93

Philip of Macedon, 13, 53, 208

Philippopolis, 208

Photographs of Moslems, 50

Pigeons in Turkey, 118

Pilgrims, Moslem, 51, 83

Police, Bosnian, 282

Political Jealousies in Europe, 14, 34

Politics, Turkish, 56
in Greece, 336, 346

Popoff, Rev. Marko, 211

Population of Bosnia, 276
of Bulgaria, 193, 209
of Constantinople, 102
of Corfu, 315
of Greece, 362
of Macedonia, 32
of Servia, 264

Porter, General Horace, 362

Porte, the Sublime, 92, 135

Postal Service in Turkey, 160

Priests in Greece, 352
Mohammedan, 43, 102, 111

Prisons in Bosnia, 277
in Greece, 342
in Servia, 268

Products of Bulgaria, 203

Professions in Greece, 343

Protestants in Bulgaria, 209
in Constantinople, 149

Prunes, Servian, 261

Public Buildings in Athens, 357

Ragusa, Town of, 304

Railways in Balkans, 191
in Bosnia, 277
in Greece, 311, 325
in Turkey, 105

Ransoms paid in Macedonia, 228

Rebellion in Balkans, 15, 30

Religious Character, Sultan’s, 83

Religions in Balkans, 32, 34

Richardson, Professor, 374

Riots in Athens, 349

Robert College, 70, 142

Roman Occupation of Balkans, 14

Roman Remains in Bosnia, 295

Roman Catholics in Bosnia, 298

Roumania, Conditions in, 20

Rugs, Turkish, 112

Rumelia, Eastern, 15

Rumili Hisar, 143

Russian Interference in Balkans, 14, 34, 165

Russo-Turkish War, 14, 34

Said Pasha, 38

Salona, Town of, 306

Salamis, Island of, 379

San Stefano, Treaty of, 14, 168

Sarafoff, Boris, 28, 230

Sarajevo, Capital of Bosnia, 277

Schools, Protestant in Turkey, 150
in Bulgaria, 213
Mohammedan, 43

Scutari, City of, 93
Women’s College, 153

Schuyler, Eugene, 167, 172

Selamlik, the, 82

Seraglio, the, 55, 92, 132

Servia, Independence of, 244
Conditions in, 20
Kings of, 245, 269
Conspiracies, 250
Capital of, 257
Palace of, 260
Population of, 264
Political Situation, 243

Sheik-ul-Islam, 44, 83, 101

Shepherd, a Greek, 321

Shipka, Battle of, 207

Shopping in Constantinople, 120

Sisters, the Sultan’s, 70

Skupshtina, Servian Parliament, 259

Sobranje, the Bulgarian, 170, 176

St. Sophia, Mosque of, 126

Sofia, City of, 195

Softas, 43

Society in Greece, 336

Socrates, Prison of, 380

Spalato, Town of, 306

Stadium at Athens, 359

Stambouloff, Stepan, 175, 182, 196

Stamboul, City of, 92

Stavreff, the Assassin, 182

Stoiloff, Minister of Bulgaria, 180

Stone, Miss Ellen M., 16, 187, 217, 235

Streets of Constantinople, 95

Students in Constantinople, 147

Sublime Porte, the, 92, 135

Sultan, Family of, 54
Habits of, 35, 49, 50, 54, 61, 63, 75, 82
Jewels, 139
Policy of, 23, 63
Skill in Diplomacy, 17

Superstitions, 61, 75

Superstitions, Turkish, 118

Sultanas, the, 65, 85

Tanagra, Excavations at, 381

Taxes in Bulgaria, 202

Telephones in the Balkans, 192
in Turkey, 61

Temperance of Moslems, 46

Tesla, Nikola, 300

Thebes, 382

Themistocles, Tomb of, 379

Thermopylae, Pass of, 383

Timotheus at Corinth, 330

Tirnova, Ancient Capital, 188

Titles of the Sultan, 55

Tobacco in Bosnia, 290

Tombs of the Sultans, 89

Trajan, Emperor, 14

Travel in Greece, 312

Treasury of the Sultan, 137

Treaty of Berlin, 14, 27, 273, 304

Tsilka, Mr. and Mrs., 218

Turkish Characteristics, 45, 109, 112
Cruelties, 293
Virtues, 289
Invasion of Balkans, 14

Ulysses, Landing Place, 313

Vaciloff, Cyril, 222

Vatralsky, Stoyan, 216

Virtues of the Turks, 289

Vulkovitch, Assassination of, 182

Wealth of Greeks, 354

Wages in Bulgaria, 202

Washburn, Rev. Dr., 144

Women of Constantinople, 109

Worship in Bosnia, 296

Yachts, the Embassy, 159

Yildiz Kiosk, 55, 79, 80, 131

“Young Turkey” Party, 24, 67

* * * * *

Transcriber’s Notes:

Illustrations have been moved to paragraph breaks near where they are mentioned, except for the frontispiece.

Punctuation has been made consistent.

Variations in spelling and hyphenation were retained as they appear in the original publication, except that obvious typographical errors have been corrected.