Chapter III: Front Matter (3)

With the first rosy blushes of the dawn the men began to rise, and before the sun was fairly over the horizon the sound and echoes of their axes brought cheer to our mothers' hearts, for they knew ere long homes would shelter them from the winter's storms. Weeks of hard labor were required to fell the trees, and clear away the brush, and prepare the site on which to build. Trees were cut the proper length, one side of the log hewed smooth with a broadax, and fitted so they would join at the corners and lie compact. It was no easy task, but our loved pioneers, with only a saw, auger and ax, broadaxe and adze would put to shame some of the more modern workmen. Logs for the puncheon floors were split and smoothed with an adze, and fitted close together, making a warm and solid floor. The structure raised to a proper height, poles were used for rafters; some of the logs were cut three feet in length, from which shakes were made and used in place of shingles. The fireplace and chimney was built with sticks and plastered inside and out with a thick coating of clay. Some had a stout iron bar securely fastened on one side of the large fireplace; on this bar, which was called a crane, iron hooks were placed, on which the teakettle and other cooking utensils were hung; all cooking and baking was done before the open fire and broad clay hearth. Windows were a sort of sliding door in the wall, without glass. The furniture was extremely simple, being split out of fir or cedar trees, and, if not elegant, was substantial; doors were also made of shakes, and hung on wooden hinges. Wooden pegs were used in place of nails. Rough bedsteads were placed in one corner of the large room, the trundle bed pushed under it during the day, and at night drawn out ready for the little ones. For one to see the number of sweet faces and bright eyes of the many children lying in their beds, the scene would put the old woman who lived in her shoe far in the minority. Large quantities of moss stripped from the trees made good mattresses; with buffalo robes and blankets they had comfortable beds. Their primitive cabins completed ready for occupancy, with heartfelt thankfulness they left the shelter of the trees for their first Oregon home.

The latchstring, like a welcome hand, bade them enter. A bright fire greeted them with her golden rays and warmth, and the sound of the teakettle, cheerily singing, they catch the glad refrain and quickly joined with--

"Home! Home! sweet, sweet home!
Be it ever so humble,
There's no place like home."

How well they realized the true meaning of home, as no roof had sheltered them for the past ten months. As the family gathered around the ruddy light of the cheerful fire, which was their only light, plans were made to visit Oregon City for supplies of food and clothing. Indians, with their canoes, conveyed them to their destination. Soon wheat, bolts of flannel, with other necessary articles, were purchased and shipped; fathers stepped on board, and the trusty Indian with a stroke of the paddle sent the frail craft swiftly gliding o'er limpid water. Ere long they were rushing over the Clackamas rapids, which in hurried haste, flows on and yet is never gone. As the sun was sinking behind the hills, they reached home, where the anxious mother, blinded by tears of gladness, thanked God for the much needed supply of clothing and wheat, which was their only bread. Deer and other game were plentiful, and easily brought down by their trusty rifle. Salmon was bought of the Indians. Ducks, geese, and swan were numerous. All winter mothers were kept busy cutting and making clothing for the entire household; also teaching their daughters how to sew, knit, and attend to general housework; and if mothers were sick they did the work with willing hands. The canoe and bateaux were their only means of transportation. Neighbors would surprise the family by bringing their violins, and spending the evening talking and dancing. The large room would be cleared of all furniture, which was placed in the loft where the small children were put to bed; soon the merry sound of tripping feet were keeping time to Money Musk, and other old time music, the old men talked over the possibilities of Oregon. One thought bridges would span the Willamette; others shook their heads, saying not while we live. Our children may live to see one. Others thought railroads would be built across the continent; all looked at the speaker and echoed "A railroad! Never, over those mountains. Why, man, no one in God's world will live to see that day. Steamers and ships will come, but no railroad."

Our pioneer mothers made their dresses with plain skirts; waists were sewed onto the skirt; sleeves were much like those worn by the women of to-day. Their hair was combed smooth by their forehead and wound in a coil high on their head, many wore side combs, a high back comb held their coil of glossy hair. Hairpins were an unknown luxury. White handkerchiefs were worn in place of collars, and they looked very pretty crossed or tied in a bow at the throat. All were deft with the needle, also weaving; those who have the rare blue and gray counterpanes, manufactured by their willing hands, possess an heirloom of great value.

In the spring of 1846 gardens were made by those living on farms, from which early vegetables were procured, and in the fall many bushels of potatoes, pease, and other vegetables were stored; of summer fruit there were wild strawberries, and later raspberries and blackberries, of which large quantities were picked and dried; also hazel bushes, producing nuts in abundance, which were gathered and stored for winter use. There was not much buying and selling, except of wheat, which was used as currency, as well as for food. Portland was founded in 1845 by pioneers who were quick to see the magnitude and resources of the country. J. B. Stephens, who was a cooper, saw the large revenue to be made by exporting salmon, and soon began making barrels and kegs, from which he netted a large profit. The first tannery built in Portland was erected near where the exposition building is located, by D. H. Lownesdale, who had the honor of introducing a new circulating medium, which was Oregon tanned leather.

In 1845 the first ferry from the east bank to the west shore was a canoe.

In 1845 Portland was named.

In 1846 the first blacksmith shop was erected on the northwest corner of First and Morrison streets.

In 1847 H. Luelling brought the first grafted fruit trees to the Northwest. His famous nursery was located near Milwaukie.

In 1847 Captain Crosby built the first frame house; others soon followed. Hotels, stores, and business houses were also erected. At that time the United States mail arrived yearly.

In 1848 the first Methodist Church was organized in Portland, and a church building was begun by J. H. Wilbur; doing good for others was his greatest pleasure. Blessed be his name!

In 1850 the first Congregational Church was erected on the northwest corner of Second and Jefferson streets. The oldest Congregational Church in Oregon was organized in 1842 at or near Hillsboro. The second was organized in 1844 at Oregon City by Harvey Clark, with three members; he also organized the first Congregational Church in Forest Grove; his many golden words and good examples are his living monument.

In 1849 Colonel William King built the first sawmill ever built in Portland, which was run by water power. Soon after it was finished it was destroyed by fire.

In 1850 W. P. Abrams and C. A. Reed erected the first steam sawmill in Oregon on the river bank near where Jefferson Street is located. This proved a profitable enterprise. Just south of the mill was an Indian encampment, occupied by different tribes. Their wigwams were constructed of bark and brush. Squaws sat on mats, weaving their water tight baskets, often very prettily decorated, while the Indian men lounged about in scarlet blankets, as if posing for a picture, and their children sat in their canoes gliding o'er the water with swanlike grace. Information had been circulated among them that the mill would be started up on a certain afternoon, and all were curious to see the working of this new evidence of the white man's superiority. At the stated time the Indians were in and around the mill; suddenly the steam whistle sounded its shrill shrieks in a continuous blood curdling blast, which sent every Indian man, woman and child fleeing for their lives into the dense woods. It was a long time before they could be induced to go near the mill.

In 1847, 1848, and 1849 many emigrants arrived who settled in Portland, adding thrift and push to our small colony. The discovery of gold in California on the twenty-fourth of January, 1848, caused Portland to look like a deserted hamlet, as all men and boys caught the gold fever and started for the golden shores of California, where many were killed by the Digger Indians; others died of various diseases, and some returned home broken in health, while others returned with their hard earned gold. Ships arrived yearly in Oregon with supplies for the Hudson Bay Company, by way of the Sandwich Islands.

In 1849 twenty vessels arrived, and quickly loaded with flour, salmon, pork, shingles, lumber, and other products, which they carried to the California market. From that time Portland began laying aside her swaddling clothes. The first mayor of Portland was Hugh D. O'Bryant, who was elected in 1851. When the city was incorporated it was in Washington County, and the people from Portland had to go to Hillsboro to hold court. In 1856 a meeting of the citizens of Portland was called to organize a volunteer company to protect the people and property, in case of an Indian outbreak; two hundred names were enrolled and H. W. Davis was appointed captain.

In 1850 the steamer Lot Whitcombe was built at Milwaukie, Oregon. In 1851 the steamers Eagle and Black Hawk were running between Portland and Oregon City, where those who wished to proceed farther south, would walk to Canemah and there board the steamer Beaver or Enterprise which would convey them to any of these points: Butteville, Champoeg, Mission Bottom, or Salem. Steamers Belle and Fashion were running between Portland and the Cascades.

In 1853 David Monnastes and H. W. Davis erected a foundry on First Street. Many other industries were established.

Among the pioneer doctors were Doctors Hawthorne and Lorrea, who erected the first hospital on Taylor, between First and Second streets. Soon after they selected a beautiful location in East Portland, surrounded by forest trees, and erected a home for the insane.

In 1853 W. S. Ladd built the first brick building in Portland. Others soon followed, and frame houses were now in evidence, and the log cabin in which so many happy hours were spent around the great fireside was fast disappearing, although built from necessity, not choice--happy memories of it still linger which time can not efface.

In 1850 several families left Portland to reside on their donation land claims. I will describe one of these homes: A frame house with large rooms, papered, and woodwork painted, glass windows, sitting room with a large brick fireplace, with a mantle of oak, easy chairs, a large mirror, table, and a corner cupboard filled with dishes. The kitchen was furnished with a cook stove and all other necessary articles. Feather beds were now in use. This house was erected near the bank of the ever beautiful Willamette. On the west a creek glided in sparkling beauty by the kitchen door, supplying the household with cold mountain water. Memory loves to recall those scenes. In a garden early vegetables and a variety of flower seeds were growing. A large frame barn stood on the hill, with pigpen and chicken house close by; a woodshed filled with wood stood near the back gate. In the fall, when it was time to garner the wheat, oats, or hay, neighbors, bringing their scythes and other instruments used to mow the harvest, would surprise the farmer at early dawn, saying, "Well, neighbor, I have come to help you with your harvesting;" and they never left until the bountiful crop had been garnered. The golden rule, do unto others as you would have them do unto you, was lived and practiced and represents to us that period in our social system when a neighborhood was as one great family.

In 1849 a mint was erected in Oregon City to coin five- and ten-dollar gold pieces, which were known as beaver money.

In the fall of 1849 a party of Oregonians, embarked on a sailing vessel, left California for Portland. The captain proved to be a most unkind and brutal master, not only to the sailors but to the passengers, who were compelled to eat the worst of food. After sailing for twenty-two days they encountered a violent gale, and were driven out of their course. As they were nearing the Columbia-river bar the vessel was drawn into the breakers at North Beach and was deserted by captain, crew, and passengers, who in their haste to save themselves forgot their gold. On reaching shore they were exhausted and were obliged to walk around the entire night to keep from freezing. In the early morning they saw smoke a short distance up the beach. Each man hurried to the scene. They found a comfortable house where they were made to feel at home in true pioneer style by the owner, a Mr. Johnson, who was, as all Scotchmen are, loyal and hospitable. As they were in a weakened condition the good man gave them a small quantity of food at first, which was fish cooked on the point of a stick held before the fire. All agreed that was the best food they had ever eaten. Now they related their hardships encountered on the voyage. Mr. Johnson sent out his Indians with instructions to reach the wreck and bring everything available ashore. This order seemed scarcely possible, but the brave Indians went through the breakers, reaching the vessel, and before night brought all the sacks of gold dust and many articles of wearing apparel ashore, where each man could claim his own. The party remained several days with their benefactor, who kindly conveyed them to Astoria.

In 1854 Thomas Fraser was the first to agitate the public school question. The following public spirited men were present: Thomas Fraser, W. S. Ladd, Josiah Failing, H. W. Corbett, P. Raleigh, A. D. Shelby, T. N. Larkin, A. L. Davis, C. Abrams, L. Limerick. All of these noble and unselfish men, except one, have passed on to their higher home--H. W. Corbett, the surviving one, a pioneer of 1851, loved, honored, and justly called the Father of Portland, is still the first to give his time and money for the betterment and upbuilding of the city and state. God grant that he may be spared many, many more years. No monument need be erected to their memory. The nobility of their lifework is woven and cemented deeply in the hearts of the people.

December, 1855, Multnomah County was organized. In January following L. Limerick was appointed county school superintendent. December 4, 1850, the first weekly _Oregonian_ was published in Portland by T. J. Dryer. In 1851 the first regular monthly mail service began between Portland and San Francisco, per steamer Columbia.

Before Oregon was admitted to the Union in 1859 the log cabins had been cleared away, showing the pioneers were progressive.

In 1858 C. Stewart erected the first theatre building in Portland.

_Wilcox School_--The first day school of any kind was opened in Portland in the fall of 1847, by Dr. Ralph Wilcox. It was conducted in a house erected by Mr. McNemee at the foot of Taylor Street. It was properly a private school and continued one quarter. The names of some of the pupils are given: Frances McNemee (now Mrs. E. J. Northup), her brothers Moses, Adam, and William; Charlotte Terwilliger (now Mrs. C. M. Cartwright), Milton Doan's children--Sarah, Mary, Peter and John, Henry Hill, Helen Hill (now Mrs. Wm. Powell), J. Miller,--Murphy, Lucy and Charlotte Barnes, Emma and Sarah Ross, Lorenzo Terwilliger, and John Terwilliger. Doctor Wilcox came to Oregon in 1845.

_Carter School_--In February, 1848, Miss Julia Carter taught school in a log cabin on the corner of Second and Stark streets. She had thirty or more pupils. Those who attended Doctor Wilcox's school, also these additional: John Cullen, Carrie Polk, the Warren girls--one now Mrs. Richard White, the other Mrs. D. C. Coleman; Milton, John, Albert, Matilda, and Susan Apperson, were her pupils.

_Hyde School_--In the winter of 1848 and 1849, Aaron J. Hyde taught school in what was known as the Cooper shop, which was the only public hall in Portland. It was located on the west side of First Street, between Morrison and Yamhill streets.

_Lyman School_--Late in December, 1849, Rev. Horace Lyman opened a school in a frame building, which was built by Col. Wm. King for church and school purposes. It was located on First Street, second door north of Oak. On this building was placed a bell, which weighed about three hundred pounds. Stephen Coffin bought this bell at his own expense. Rev. Jas. H. Wilbur bought the bell of Mr. Coffin and placed it on the First Methodist Church. It now hangs in the steeple of the Taylor-street M. E. Church. He taught three months, had forty pupils. Among his pupils he recalls the Coffins, Chapmans, Parrishes, Kings, Hills, Terwilligers, Appersons, Watts, and McNemees.

_Delos Jefferson School_--In August, 1850, Delos Jefferson, now a farmer of Marion County, opened a school and taught three months.

_Reed School_--In April, 1850, Cyrus A. Reed taught school for three months. He had an average of sixty pupils. Among his pupils he recalls the names, Carters, Cullen, Coffin, Hill, Chapman, Terwilliger, Parrishes, Stephens, McNemee, and Watts. There was no other district organization.

_Rev. Doane's School_--Following Mr. Jefferson, came Rev. N. Doane, then and now a minister of the M. E. Church. He taught nine months, beginning December 1, 1850. To the former lists of pupils he adds Davises, Crosbys, Lownesdale, and Parrishes.

_Central School_--The Central School occupied the present site of the Portland Hotel. Monday, May 18, 1858, the first school in the Central Building was opened by L. L. Terwilliger, principal, with two assistants, Mrs. Mary J. Hensill and Owen Connelly. From the records I find that up to July 23, 1858, two hundred and eighty different pupils had been enrolled. The names of pupils, parents, and residences are on record. Of all the residences noted, but two were west of Seventh Street. Those two were F. M. Warren and Wm. H. King. Most of the residences were on First, Second, Third, and Fourth streets, with quite a number in Couch's Addition. Mr. Terwilliger was principal of the Central School for two and a quarter years.

_Bishop Scott's Academy_--Was opened in the spring of 1856, at Milwaukie.

_Saint Mary's Academy_--The oldest denominational school in Portland, was founded in 1859 by the Sisters of the Most Holy Name of Jesus and Mary. The first Catholic Church in Oregon was erected in 1839 at Saint Paul, Marion County.

In 1849 a Catholic Church was dedicated in Oregon City.

In 1851 the first Catholic Church was erected in Portland, and dedicated in 1852 by Archbishop Blanchet, who labored with zeal to better the condition of all. Peace to his memory.

In 1845 George Abernethy, who resided in Oregon City, was chosen to serve as governor of Oregon. He was a man of sterling qualities and well qualified for the office, and was a pioneer of 1840. In the fall of 1851 the academy on Seventh and Jefferson streets was opened with C. S. Kingsley, teacher. The school was surrounded by large trees and was a long distance from the village. No streets were improved near the school. One could follow the cow path that wound around, and the tinkling of the cow bell could be heard as late as 1861, when a law was passed prohibiting cattle from roaming on the streets.

GLIMPSE OF ONE OF MANY SIMILAR SCENES ENDURED OUR LOVED PIONEERS.

In 1850 Mr. S. M. Hamilton, with his wife and four children, after a long journey across the Plains arrived at the Cascades. They were impressed with the towering mountains and beautiful scenery. Here they decided to locate on a donation land claim, which is now known as Hamilton's Island. A comfortable house soon greeted them. Mrs. Hamilton, who is still with us, is a woman of culture and refinement, and many owe their success in life to her loving example and words of cheer; but dark days were hovering around their peaceful home. The terrible news that Indians were lurking to plunder and kill had filled their hearts with terror. Mr. Hamilton had arranged, if the outbreak did occur, that two men were to take charge of the boat, while others were to remain and defend their property. A bateaux lay in readiness. On the morning of the 26th of March, 1856, the dreaded signal sounded, striking terror to the stoutest hearts. Mr. Hamilton hurried to his home, where wife and children were terrified. His first word was "Mary, the Yakima Indians have attacked the men, who were working on the portage railroad, and will soon reach our home. Your only safety is to embark at once, with other families, who are hurrying to reach the boat, their only means of escape." All were now on board except one woman, who was carrying her babe, and running over the rocks as fast as her strength would permit. One of the men who had charge of the boat said "Push out and leave her." Mr. Hamilton placed his hand on the boat, saying, "No, no; never leave man, woman, or child who is in sight." By this time the woman and child were on board; quickly the boat was in the swift current, the occupants were lying on the bottom to escape the whizzing bullets and arrows of the savages, whose demoniacal and blood curdling yells added terror to the mothers' hearts. Picture the agony of those mothers as they were floating away from loved ones and home, listening to the frightful shrieks and rapid shooting of the Indians. For a moment the father watched the receding craft that held all that was dear--dearer than life--not knowing when, or if ever, they would meet again. With upturned face he exclaimed "Oh, God, have mercy and protect the dear ones." A bullet whistled past his head; he raised his trusty rifle, fired, one Indian fell; again and again his rifle was reloaded and fired, each time sure of its mark. That night his house was burned. The Indians were armed with guns and arrows. They killed one woman and her husband; several men were killed; after hours of suspense those in the boat sighted the steamer Fashion. She quickly halted, taking all on board, turned back, reaching Vancouver the following day, where the alarm was sounded, and the steamer hurried on to Portland; there the bells tolling forth called out the citizens, who, on hearing the terrible news began collecting guns and ammunition; the entire population was aroused. Nothing since the Whitman massacre had brought such sorrow to their hearts. Early in the morning the steamer, loaded with human freight, started for the sad scene. A steamer had left Fort Vancouver with our illustrious Sheridan, who, with forty men reached the Cascades first. On landing they received a volley from the Indians, who fought like demons. Now the steamer arrived with the Portland volunteers. At the same time Colonel Steptoe, from The Dalles, with infantry and volunteers, arrived, who surprised the Indians, many of whom were horse racing, others were watching Sheridan. As they saw the new arrival of blue coats, they fled to the hills. Nine of the ring leaders were captured and hung. To relate all the thrilling incidents encountered by the early pioneers would fill volumes, and in conclusion, I feel that the hallowed remembrances of all our loyal patriotic pioneer fathers and mothers will live to the end of time, as they braved dangers that tongue or pen fail to express, and by their life's work each one has erected their invincible monument.

CHARLOTTE MOFFETT CARTWRIGHT,
Pioneer of 1845.

THE UPPER CALAPOOIA.

By GEO. O. GOODALL.

The early history of the white man in the Upper Calapooia was a quiet and uneventful one. The travelers coming in from their long trip across the Plains, pushed up the Willamette Valley, and, attracted by the beautiful and fertile Calapooia Valley, with its abundance of grass on its surrounding hills, and plentiful supply of water, settled there to live the peaceful life of farmers or stock raisers, with very little trouble of any kind to disturb them in their occupation of home-making. In those early days the hills, most of which are now heavily wooded, were free from timber and covered with beautiful grass. One old settler said: "You can not imagine the beauty of this country when we first came here." The Indians had kept the brush burned down, burning over the hills each year. The white man neglected to do this, and now in many places the grass has given way to moss and timber.

According to the best information I could get, the first settlers came to the Calapooia in 1846. T. A. Riggs, who came in 1847, and whose statement is appended below, says that when he came there were three or four settlers near where Brownsville now stands, and one, R. C. Finley, six miles up stream. This man Finley was the settler farthest up the stream till Riggs and his partner, Asa Moore, took up donation claims two or three miles above Finley on Brush Creek, a tributary of the Calapooia. From this time on more settlers came every year and settled all along the Calapooia Valley and on streams tributary. The settlement here preceded that in the upper Willamette to some extent, because out in the valley there was less timber, water was less plentiful, and the soil was not considered as good as in the Calapooia.

Most of the settlers who came were farmers. R. C. Finley, however, was a millwright, and in 1849[35] built a flouring mill, which still stands, six miles above Brownsville. In 1850 Templeton built a sawmill; in 1852 Finley built one, and in 1854 P. V. Crawford built one near the present site of Holley. The first settlers had gone to Oregon City for flour, and later to Salem. After Finley's mill was built people came from as far away as the Umpqua Valley to get flour there.

Schools were founded at an early date, the first being taught by Rev. H. H. Spalding in a log house one mile above where Brownsville now stands, in the summer of 1849. This was a subscription school. The first district was organized on the Calapooia in 1853, being the third district in Linn County. The first school after the district was organized was taught by Robert Moore in the summer of 1853. The churches commenced work very soon and several denominations were represented. Joab Powell, the celebrated Baptist evangelist, used to preach there, and gave it as his opinion that "Thar was some mighty big sinners on the head of the Calapooia." Dr. J. N. Perkins preached for the Christians, and Rev. H. H. Spalding for the Presbyterians.

P. V. Crawford, for whom Crawfordsville is named, was the first regularly appointed postmaster on the Calapooia. Previous to his appointment in 1870 there had been a supplied post office at William Heisler's store, where Crawfordsville now is. There was never any great number of manufacturing enterprises in the Calapooia country. A flouring mill, a sawmill or two, and the woolen mill at Brownsville, built about 1862, constitute the sum of such enterprises. The chief production is still from the farm--live stock and farm produce. The range is now greatly curtailed through growth of brush, close pasturage, and taking up of land.

There were in this region several men who were public spirited and prominent in Oregon affairs in early times. Foremost of all was Delazon Smith, who lived down toward Albany, on the Albany prairie, but was well known and claimed by all the Linn County section. Smith was a preacher when he first lived in Oregon. On one occasion he was heard to say, when preaching at Brownsville, that he had been urged to give up preaching and go into law, but that he would not give up what religion he had for all the wealth of the world. Strange to say, however, that was really the last sermon he ever preached. Soon after he is said to have been offered a fee of $1,000 to defend a man in a criminal case, and from that time on he followed law and politics. He was a member of the constitutional convention, was in the legislature, and stumped the state with Col. E. D. Baker in the race for United States senator. Hugh Brown, founder of Brownsville, was also prominent in politics and was a member of the constitutional convention. J. N. Rice and Robert Glass were in the legislature in early times, and R. C. Finley, though not so prominent politically, was a wealthy, liberal, public spirited man, who wielded considerable influence.

No serious Indian troubles ever came upon the settlers on the Calapooia. T. A. Riggs tells how the Indians used to steal from the whites, and describes a little difficulty he and a neighbor had with them over the stealing of an ox, but the Indians of this section never attempted to make war on the whites. At a later time, 1856, there was a fear that the Indians on the other side of the Cascades, who were then on the warpath, might come over and fall upon the settlers along the Calapooia. At Fern Ridge a fort was built in anticipation of such a contingency, but results proved their fears groundless, and that they had perhaps given the eastern Indians credit for more energy than they possessed.

During war times there was considerable feeling in this region. The people were many of them from Missouri, and many were Douglas democrats. When the war commenced a considerable number of Douglas democrats turned Republicans. A party composed of Union men and Douglas democrats put out a county ticket in 1862 in Linn County. It was called the Cayuse ticket. Both Union and non-Union men formed secret societies. The democrats organized a secret society known as the Knights of the Golden Circle, one of its objects being to prevent a draft. George Helm was the leading democrat at this time in this section, and was called the "Lion of Linn." The Union men formed the Union League, the chief object of which was to watch the democrats. It was thought at one time that the Knights of the Golden Circle would attempt to capture the fort at Vancouver, but no such attempt was ever made.

As I have before stated, the course of settlement and development in the Calapooia country was quiet and uneventful. The settlers were at first all poor, all subject to the hardships incident to living in a new country, shut off from many conveniences of an older community, and obliged to ascertain by experiment what crops paid best and how they were best handled. Currency was scarce in the settlement and wheat served to a large extent as a medium of exchange. When the men who had been drawn to the gold mines to seek their fortunes began to return with their gold dust there was a rapid advance in business and prosperity.

The first newspaper of this locality was printed by George Dyson; the name and date I can not now give. The second was the _Informant_, printed, like the first, at Brownsville, and by a man named Stein. This was in 1886. In 1887 the _Express-Advance_ was started with the _Informant's_ plant and continued two years. The _Brownsville Times_ was started June 15, 1889, by McDonald & Cavendish. With several changes of editors this paper is still printed, the present proprietors being F. M. Brown and A. B. Cavender.

The question as to why the first settlers came to Oregon is difficult to determine. It seems, however, from the very limited amount of direct testimony I have been able to get, that there were two forces which at least had a powerful influence, and these were, first, curiosity to see this great western country; and, secondly, the desire to pick out a good piece of land from the thousands of acres open to settlement here.

ALBANY, Oregon, September 21, 1901.

_Mr. Geo. O. Goodall, Eugene, Oregon_--
DEAR SIR: In compliance with your request I will write a
short account of the early settlement of the upper Calapooia
Valley and some of the annoyances with which the first
settlers had to contend, and as I have to depend entirely on
memory, I am aware that my account will be very imperfect
and the more so as I am almost alone as one of the first
settlers, and I believe the only one above Brownsville.

I crossed the plains in 1846, stopping near Oregon City till
the next fall, when I settled in Brush Creek Valley, Brush
Creek being the south fork of the Calapooia. When I came
here I found Alexander Kirk, W. R. Kirk, James Blakely, Hugh
L. Brown, and Jonathan Keeney, all living in the vicinity of
where Brownsville now is, they all having crossed the plains
in 1846 and come on up the valley to the Calapooia. I also
found R. C. Finley some six miles farther up the stream, who
also crossed the plains the same year, but settled on the
Calapooia in the spring of 1847. Mrs. Agnes B. Courtnay, who
came to Oregon in 1845, and whose husband had been killed
near Oregon City by a falling tree, made up the settlers on
the Calapooia at that time. I will state here that Mr.
Finley had settled at the falls of the Calapooia where he
contemplated building, and did in 1848 build a flouring
mill, being the first mill south of Salem. In the fall of
1847, as before stated, I and Asa Moore settled in Brush
Creek Valley above Mr. Finley, he being the upper settler up
to that time, and at the same time James McHargue and Robert
Montgomery, who crossed the plains that season, settled
below Mr. Finley and Thomas Fields several miles farther up
the stream. Wm. T. Templeton, William Robnett, William
McCaw, John Findlay, John A. Dunlap, and Thomas S. Woodfin
all crossed the plains in 1847 and subsequently settled on
the Calapooia, but after the annoyance with the Indians had
ceased.

The Indians in these early days were in the habit of
stealing horses and cattle from the settlers and butchering
them, and the settlers would trail them up and if able to
catch them would flog them severely, but the Indians seemed
to care about as much as a cur for such treatment and would
laugh about it as if it was all a huge joke. Some time
during the summer of 1847 Isaac B. Courtnay was hunting in
Brush Creek Valley, being above the settlement at that time,
when he met with a few Indians, who took his gun and
ammunition and allowed him to go home. During the fall and
winter of 1847 the Indians annoyed Mr. Fields so much that
he finally moved down to my place on Brush Creek and stayed
until the spring of 1848.

In the fall of 1847 when I and Mr. Moore came into Brush
Creek Valley we were not aware that there were any Indians
near there and selected a place to build a cabin in which to
spend the winter, we being single men, were going to batch
through the winter, when I intended to bring my mother to
live with me, my father having died soon after starting for
Oregon. When we commenced cutting logs for our cabin two or
three Indians appeared on the scene and inquired what we
were doing there, and on being told we were going to settle
there they demanded pay for the land, and we finally made a
bargain with them agreeing to pay them in wheat and pease
after the next harvest, this being the way in which many of
the early settlers bargained with them.

During the fall and early winter when an Indian happened to
be present at mealtime we gave him something to eat, but it
soon became apparent that if we kept this up we would run
out of provisions before spring, as there were one or more
Indians there nearly every meal, so we were obliged to quit
feeding them, when they demanded pay for their land again we
told them, however, that we would pay them according to
contract. Soon after this they moved away, and we saw no
more of them on Brush Creek.

As Mr. Finley was contemplating the building of a mill the
next summer he traded for a fat ox which I had brought with
me, intending to butcher him when he commenced work, but
soon after the Indians left the ox disappeared also. When we
missed him from the other cattle Mr. Finley and I took a
circuit around the range of the cattle and struck his trail
going toward the Santiam, and after tracking him a mile or
two we came across the same Indians, where they were camped
and were drying the beef, having killed the ox. When we
turned toward the camp Mr. Finley said if that Indian runs
I'll shoot him. When they saw us coming they broke for the
brush and Mr. Finley fired at one of them, they in their
hurry leaving everything in camp, including the only gun
they had.

After selecting such things as we could carry that would be
of any value we made a bonfire of the rest, burning
everything they had. When we started away I saw an Indian
head come up by the side of a log in the timber and took a
shot at him, it was a long shot, and I think the ball struck
the log, but the head disappeared very suddenly. Another
Indian started to run from behind a tree when Mr. Finley
fired, aiming, as he said, to break a leg, wounding the
Indian above the knee, but not disabling him. This caused
quite an excitement in the settlement, the Indians and many
of the settlers fearing it would cause an outbreak among the
Indians, arguing that we ought not have shot at them, but
should have treated them as others had done. However, Mr.
Finley and I told them that if they didn't want to be shot
at they must not steal from us, as we would shoot every time
and that to kill. This put a stop to their stealing in this
part of the country and we were not annoyed after that by
the natives, and they never called for the pay for their
land.

The Rev. H. H. Spalding taught a neighborhood school in a
log schoolhouse one mile above where Brownsville now stands
in the summer of 1849, there being no public schools in the
country at that time. The first school district on the
Calapooia, being the third in Linn County, was organized, I
think, in the spring of 1853; but many of the early records
of the county were burned in the courthouse, and I am unable
to give the precise date. The first school was taught in the
district in the summer of 1853 by Robert Moore.

As to the motive for coming to the Willamette Valley at that
early date I hardly know how to answer, unless it was love
of adventure, as the question of sovereignty had not been
settled between the United States and England when I came
here. True, the United States senate had been discussing the
matter of giving each settler in Oregon six hundred and
forty acres of land, and we rather expected that would be
done, but we had no real assurance that such would be the
case.

Among the early county officers of Linn County, after its
organization under the Territorial Government, quite a
number were living on the Calapooia, Alexander Kirk being
elected county judge, N. D. Jack assessor, John A. Dunlap
representative, and William McCaw clerk in 1849, and in 1850
several men who were elected to county officers went to the
mines and failed to qualify, among them the county
treasurer, and at a special election I was elected to that
office and received and disbursed the first taxes ever
collected in Linn County.

In 1851 I was elected assessor and was the second man to
assess the county. In 1856 I served as second lieutenant in
the Rogue-river war. In 1862 was elected sheriff for two
years.

Yours truly,

T. A. RIGGS.

FOOTNOTES:

[35] Riggs says 1848; several old settlers say 1849.

DOCUMENTS.

A letter of M. M. McCarver to Hon. A. C. Dodge, Delegate to Congress from Iowa, written immediately on the arrival of the immigration of 1843.

[_Explanation_: This document was copied from the _Ohio
Statesman_, which had taken it from the _Iowa Gazette_,
where it was originally printed.]

(Reprinted from the _Ohio Statesman_ of September 11, 1844.)

OREGON.

ARRIVAL OF EMIGRATION COMPANY NO. I.

On the first page of to-day's paper will be found a notice
of the return of Lieutenant Fremont's exploring company. By
this company we are put into possession of several
interesting letters from different members of the emigrating
company, and, among others, three from our former townsman,
M. M. McCarver, one of which, directed to our delegate,
together with a letter written by P. H. Burnett to the
_Saint Louis Reporter_, we publish below.--_Iowa Gazette_
[Burlington].

TWALATINE PLAINS, Oregon Territory, November 6, 1843.

DEAR SIR: I avail myself of an opportunity offered by one of
the vessels belonging to the Hudson Bay Company to forward
you a few lines.

The emigrants have not all arrived, though more than half
are here, and the remainder may be looked for in a few days,
all were at the Methodist Mission, about one hundred and
fifty miles distant, near The Dalles. On last week several
of the families arrived within a few days of Fort Vancouver
and the Wallammatte Falls--some by water and others over the
Cascade Mountains. The waggons will be brought from The
Dalles by water, as the season is now too far advanced to
open a road through the mountains. This expedition
establishes the practicability beyond doubt of a waggon road
across the continent by the way of the southern pass in the
Rocky Mountains. We have had no difficulty with the natives,
although we have had a tedious journey. We have had less
obstacles in reaching here than we had a right to expect, as
it was generally understood before leaving the States that
one third of the distance, to wit, from Fort Hall to this
place, was impassable with waggons. Great credit, however,
is due to the energy, perseverance, and industry of this
emigrating company, and particularly to Doctor Whitman, one
of the missionaries at the Walla Walla Mission, who
accompanied us out. His knowledge of the route was
considerable, and his exertions for the interest of the
company were untiring. Our journey may now be said to be at
an end, and we are now in the Wallammatte Valley. I have
been here near three weeks, having left my waggon in charge
of the teamster and proceeded on horseback from Fort Hall in
company with some thirty persons, principally young men.
Your first question now will be, "how are you satisfied with
the country? Is it worthy of the notice that Congress has
given it?" I would answer these in the affirmative. Perhaps
there is no country in the world of its size that offers
more inducements to enterprise and industry than Oregon. The
soil in this valley and in many other portions of the
territory is equal to that of Iowa, or any other portion of
the United States, in point of beauty and fertility, and its
productions in many articles are far superior, particularly
in regard to wheat, potatoes, beets, and turnips. The grain
of the wheat is more than one third larger than any I have
seen in the States. Potatoes are abundant and much better
than those in the States. I measured a beet which grew in
Doctor Whitman's garden which measured in circumference two
inches short of three feet, and there is now growing in the
field of Mr. James Johns, less than a mile from this place
where I write you, a turnip measuring in circumference four
and one half feet, and he thinks it will exceed five feet
before pulling time. Indeed, everything here is in a
flourishing condition--trade brisk and everybody doing well.
The emigrants generally are all, as far as I know,
satisfied. Wages for a common hand is from $1 to $1.50 per
day, and mechanics from $2 to $4. Wheat is quite abundant
and sold to ship or emigrants at $1 per bushel. Flour is
from $9 to $10 per barrel; potatoes and turnips fifty cents
per bushel; beef from six to eight cents per pound; American
cows from $60 to $70; California, from $15 to $20. The
prairie is coated with a rich green grass, perhaps the most
nutritious in the world; and I am told that the winter is
never so severe or the grass so scarce that a poor horse
will not fatten in the space of one month. Nothing is wanted
but industry to make this one of the richest little
countries in the world. I say little, because the fertile
part of it is small compared with the very extensive fertile
countries in the valley of the Mississippi; yet we have a
country sufficient in extent and resources to maintain in
lucrative occupations millions of inhabitants. Its great
hydraulic power immediately on the seashore, the advantages
for stock grazing or wool growing, its fertile soil and
indeed, its very isolated situation from competition with
the rest of the civilized world, all combine with other
circumstances to make it one of the most desirable countries
under the sun for industry and enterprise.

I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant,