Chapter VII (7)

CAMPHOR CERATE FOR CHAPPED HANDS.—Take one ounce and a half of spermaceti, half an ounce of white wax, scrape them into an earthen vessel or pipkin (an earthen jam-pot will do), add six drachms of pounded camphor, and pour on the whole four table-spoonfuls of best olive oil; let it stand before the fire till it dissolves, stirring it well when liquid. Before you wash your hands, take a small piece of the cerate, and rub it into your hands, then wash them as usual. Putting the cerate on before going to bed is very good. The ingredients cost one shilling, and this quantity will last for three winters. The vessel should be covered, to prevent evaporation.

MACASSAR OIL TO MAKE THE HAIR GROW AND CURL.—Olive oil, one pound; oil of origanum, one drachm; oil of rosemary, one drachm and a quarter. Mix.

TO MAKE A CURLING FLUID FOR THE HAIR.—Melt a bit of white bees’ wax, about the size of a filbert kernel, in one ounce of olive oil; to this add one or two drops of attar of roses.

TO SOFTEN THE SKIN, AND IMPROVE THE COMPLEXION.—If flour of sulphur be mixed in a little milk, and after standing an hour or two, the milk (without disturbing the sulphur) be rubbed into the skin, it will keep it soft, and make the complexion clear. It is to be used before washing. This recipe is used in my family every day, and found to answer.—G. W.

TO WHITEN THE NAILS.—Diluted sulphuric acid, two drachms; tincture of myrrh, one drachm; spring water, four ounces. Mix. First cleanse with white soap, and then dip the fingers into the mixture.—N.

TO WHITEN THE HANDS.—Take a wine-glassful of Eau de Cologne, and another of lemon-juice; then scrape two cakes of brown Windsor soap to a powder, and mix well in a mould. When hard, it will be an excellent soap for whitening the hands.

AN EXCELLENT EYE-WASH.—I send you the following recipe, having found it very useful in my own case. It is especially adapted to relieve the pain and weakness incident to the eyes of elderly people, when depending on debility of the optic nerves:—Take sulphate of zinc, one drachm; spirit of camphor, three drachms; distilled water, hot, four ounces; rose-water, eight ounces. Pour the boiling water upon the zinc and camphorated spirit in a closed vessel, and when cold, strain through linen or fine tow; then add the rose-water.—J. WILSON, _Cork_.

FOR WEAK EYES.—Two grains acetate of zinc, in two ounces of rose-water; filter the liquor carefully, and wash the eyes night and morning. I have used the above for many years.—M. A. S.

GOULARD LOTION, OR LEAD WASH.—This may be made by dissolving one drachm of sugar of lead in a pint of soft water. Some persons are very fond of using this wash, with the addition of spirits of wine, as an evaporant; but I do not like it, for it renders the skin very dry and harsh, and its sedative virtue acting through unbroken skin, is not of much value. Under other circumstances, it is very often useful. When used as a wash for the eyes, two grains of the sugar of lead are to be dissolved in two table-spoonfuls of water.

TO FILL A DECAYED TOOTH.—Procure a small piece of gutta-percha, drop it into boiling water, then, with the thumb and finger, take off as much as you suppose will fill up the tooth _nearly_ level, and while in the soft state press into the tooth; then hold on _that_ side of the mouth cold water two or three times, which will harden it.—The writer of this chanced to try it, and for two years has found it very successful; of course the breath is sweeter, and the tooth free from cold.—G. A. M.

NEW METHOD OF FILLING TEETH.—Mix thirteen parts of pure finely powdered caustic lime with twelve parts of anhydrous phosphoric acid. This powder is moist during the mixing, and, while in that state, is to be introduced into the decayed tooth. The place in the tooth is to be made dry before receiving the mixture. This kind of filling must be used two or three minutes after being prepared. Soon after it is lodged in the decayed cavity, it becomes very solid.—E. A. C.

SIMPLE MEANS OF REMOVING TARTAR FROM THE TEETH.—In the summer months, tartar may be effectually removed from the teeth, by partaking frequently of strawberries.

TOOTH-POWDER.—Powdered orris-root, half an ounce; powdered charcoal, two ounces; powdered Peruvian bark, one ounce; prepared chalk, half an ounce; oil of bergamot or lavender, twenty drops. These ingredients must be well worked up in a mortar, until thoroughly incorporated. This celebrated tooth-powder possesses three essential virtues, giving an odorous breath, cleansing and purifying the gums, and preserving the enamel; the last rarely found in popular tooth-powders.—C.

SIMPLE MODE OF CLEANSING THE TEETH.—Take a tooth-brush, which, after having dipped it in water, rub upon your cake of soap, and then apply to the teeth; the mouth can easily be cleansed of the soap-suds, by rinsing with water. I have found this simple receipt very effective.—J. T.

EXCELLENT DENTIFRICE.—I have used the following dentifrice for seven or eight years uninterruptedly, and can confidently recommend it as excellent and economical:—Procure a lump of whiting, and scrape off as much, in fine powder, as will fill a pint pot. Take two ounces of camphor, moisten it with a few drops of brandy or spirit of wine, and rub it into a powder. Mix this with the whiting, and add to it half an ounce of powdered myrrh. Put the whole into a wide-mouthed bottle, and cork down. A small portion of this may be emptied into a box every few days for use. By keeping it corked down, it will be as fragrant at the end of the year as when made. If too strong of the camphor, it will be easy to add a little more whiting.—T. K.

COLD CREAM.—Sweet almond oil, seven pounds by weight; white wax, three-quarters of a pound; spermaceti, three-quarters of a pound; clarified mutton suet, one pound; rose-water, seven pints; spirits of wine, one pint. Directions to mix the above:—Place the oil, wax, spermaceti, and suet in a large jar; cover it over tightly, then place it in a saucepan of boiling water (having previously placed two or more pieces of fire-wood at the bottom of the saucepan, to allow the water to get underneath the jar, and to prevent its breaking); keep the water boiling round the jar till all the ingredients are dissolved; take it out of the water, and pour it into a large pan previously warmed and capable of holding twenty-one pints; then, with a wooden spatula, stir in the rose-water, cold, as quickly as possible (dividing it into three or four parts at most), the stirring in of which should not occupy above five minutes, as after a certain heat the water will not mix. When all the water is in, stir unremittingly for thirty minutes longer to prevent its separating, then add the spirits of wine and the scent, and it is finished. Keep it in a cold place, in a white glazed jar, and do not cut it with a _steel_ knife, as it causes blackness at the parts of contact. Scent with otto of roses and essential oil of bergamot to fancy. For smaller quantities, make ounces instead of pounds.—R. S.

ROSEMARY POMATUM.—Strip from the stems two large handfuls of recently gathered rosemary. Boil these in a well-tinned saucepan, with half a pound of hog’s lard, till reduced to four ounces. Strain it, and put it into a pomatum pot. Oils for the hair may be made by simply stirring any essential oils into oil of ben, oil of almonds, olive oil, or castor oil. The pink and red oils are coloured by being heated to the boiling point, and poured upon alkanet root. But such preparation is bad, because heating the oil to the point necessary to make it act upon the dye of the alkanet root, gives it a tendency to become rancid. Coloured oils should therefore be avoided, if it be for this reason only; but for ladies who wear caps, there is a still stronger—coloured oils always stain these caps.—W.

POMATUM.—Take of white mutton suet four pounds, well boiled in hot water (three quarts), and washed to free it from salt. Melt the suet when dried with a pound and a half of fresh lard, and two pounds of yellow wax. Pour into an earthen vessel, and stir it till it is cold; then beat into it thirty drops of oil of cloves, or any other essential oil whose scent you prefer. If this kind of pomatum is too hard, use less wax.

TO MAKE COURT-PLASTER.—Stretch tightly, some thin black or flesh-coloured silk in a wooden frame, securing it with packthread or small tacks. Then go all over it with a soft bristle brush, dipped in dissolved isinglass or strong gum arabic water. Give it two or three coats, letting it dry between each. Then go several times over it with white of egg.—J. MANSON.

ROSE LIP SALVE.—Eight ounces sweet almond oil, four ounces prepared mutton suet, one ounce and a half white wax, two ounces spermaceti, twenty drops otto; steep a small quantity of alkanet root in the oil, and strain before using. Melt the suet, wax, and spermaceti together, then add the chloric oil and otto.—R. S.

BANDOLINE FOR THE HAIR (A FRENCH RECEIPT).—To one quart of water put half an ounce of quince pips, boil it nearly an hour, stirring it well, strain it through a piece of fine muslin, let it stand twenty-four hours, and then add fourteen drops of the essential oil of almonds. A dessert-spoonful of brandy may be added, if required to keep a long time.—E. I.

BANDOLINE FOR THE HAIR.—Take of castor oil, two ounces; spermaceti, one drachm; oil of bergamot, one drachm. Mix with heat and strain; then beat in six drops otto of roses. If wished coloured, add half a drachm of annatto. Tried and recommended by W. B. W. K. Cost, 1s. 4d.

ELDER-FLOWER OINTMENT.—This is the mildest, blandest, and most cooling ointment, as the old women term it, which can be used, and is very suitable for anointing the face or neck when sun-burnt. It is made of fresh elder-flowers stripped from the stalks, two pounds of which are simmered in an equal quantity of hog’s lard till they become crisp, after which the ointment, whilst fluid, is strained through a coarse sieve.

BEAR’S GREASE (IMITATIVE).—Hog’s lard, sixteen ounces; flour of benzoin and palm oil, of each a quarter of an ounce. Melt together until combined, and stir until cold. Scent at pleasure. This will keep a long time.

POMADE VICTORIA.—This highly-praised and excellent pomade is made in the following way—and if so made, will be found to give a beautiful gloss and softness to the hair:—Quarter of a pound of honey and half an ounce of bees’ wax simmered together for a few minutes, and then strain; and of oil of almonds, lavender and thyme, half a drachm each. Be sure to continue stirring till quite cold, or the honey and wax will separate.—Tried and recommended by W. W.

COLD CREAM.—Lard, six ounces; spermaceti, one ounce and a drachm and a half; white wax, three drachms; rose-water, three ounces; carbonate of potass, fifteen grains; spirits of wine, three-quarters of an ounce; essential oil of bergamot, three drachms. Melt the three first, then add the rose-water, carbonate of potass, and spirits of wine, stirring well, and when nearly cold add the perfume. I can safely say that this is first-rate, having made many pounds of it.—G. R. M. D.

TO PERFUME LINEN.—Rose leaves dried in the shade, or at about four feet from a stove, one pound; cloves, carraway seeds, and allspice, of each one ounce; pound in a mortar, or grind in a mill; dried salt, a quarter of a pound. Mix all these together, and put the compound into little bags.—S., _Clapham_.

POT-POURRI.—Take of orris-root, flag-root, bruised, each four ounces; yellow sandal-wood, three ounces; sweet cedar-wood, one ounce; gum benzoin, storax, of each one ounce; cloves, half an ounce; nutmegs, one ounce; patchouli leaves, one ounce. The above should be all coarsely powdered, and well mixed. Then add—bay salt, one pound; rose leaves, three ounces; essence of lemon, half a drachm; millefleurs, one drachm; oil of lavender (English) twenty drops; musk, ten grains. The above may be used for _saquets_, if the bay salt and rose leaves are omitted, substituting for the latter ten drops of otto of roses. The above forms a grateful perfume, and will retain its scent for a considerable time. It may be relied upon as excellent.—W. G. G.

TO MAKE EAU DE COLOGNE.—Rectified spirits of wine, four pints; oil of bergamot, one ounce; oil of lemon, half an ounce; oil of rosemary, half a drachm; oil of neroli, three-quarters of a drachm; oil of English lavender, one drachm; oil of oranges, one drachm. Mix well and then filter. If these proportions are too large, smaller ones may be used.—A. L.

TO EXTRACT THE PERFUME OF FLOWERS.—Procure a quantity of the petals of any flower which has an agreeable flavour; card thin layers of cotton wool, which dip into the finest Florence oil; sprinkle a small quantity of fine salt on the flowers, and place layers of cotton and flowers alternately, until an earthen or wide-mouthed glass vessel is quite full. Tie the top close with a bladder, and lay the vessel in a south aspect, exposed to the heat of the sun, and in fifteen days, when opened, a fragrant oil may be squeezed away from the whole mass; little inferior (if roses are made use of) to the dear and highly-valued otto, or odour of roses.

ESSENTIA ODORIFERA.—Take of musk grain, ten grains; civet, five grains; Peruvian balsam, twelve grains; oil of cloves, four drops; oil of rhodium, two drops; sub-carbonate of potash, half a drachm; rectified spirits of wine, two ounces. Digest them together in a close vessel, with a heat equal to that of the sun in summer (78 deg. Fahr.) for several days, and afterwards pour off the essence for use. This is an exquisite perfume, and a single drop gives a fine flavour to many ounces of other liquors.—K.

A VERY PLEASANT PERFUME, AND ALSO PREVENTIVE AGAINST MOTHS.—Take of cloves, caraway seeds, nutmegs, mace, cinnamon, and Tonquin beans, of each one ounce; then add as much Florentine orris-root as will equal the other ingredients put together. Grind the whole well to powder, and then put it in little bags, among your clothes, &c.—A. L.

TO LOOSEN THE STOPPERS OF SMELLING-BOTTLES.—If the stopper is firmly fixed by means of the salts contained within the bottle, do not attempt to strike the stopper, but add as much citric acid to water as it will take up, thus making what chemists term a saturated solution; or else pour some vinegar into a tumbler, and immerse the bottle in the solution or vinegar. In the former case a citrate of ammonia will be formed, and in the latter case an acetate of ammonia. After the bottle has remained in the tumbler a short time, remove it to a basin of warm water, and it will soon be released.—K.

CLEANING COMBS.—I beg leave to offer a plan that will do away with the “cleaning of a comb,” or, at least, in a great measure lessen that disagreeable duty. Cut a bit of coarse flannel the size of the comb (small-tooth comb I mean) and before you use it work the flannel on to one edge of the comb, push it about half-way up the teeth; when you have used it, draw the flannel off and the comb will easily be made perfectly clean by being rinsed in water. I keep bits of flannel cut always with my comb.—S. K. Y.

TO WASH HAIR-BRUSHES.—Never use soap. Take a piece of soda, dissolve it in warm water, stand the brush in it, taking care that the water only covers the bristles; it will almost immediately become white and clean; stand it to dry in the open air with the bristles downwards, and it will be found to be as firm as a new brush.—A RIGID ECONOMIST, _Guernsey_.

TO CLEAN HAIR OR CLOTHES-BRUSHES.—Dissolve about the size of a walnut of washing soda, and an atom of soap in a basin _quite full_ of warm water. Pass the hairs of the brush quickly for a few minutes on the surface of the water without wetting either the handle or back, which always loosens it and spoils varnish brushes; if cleaned in this manner it will save great trouble, and last a much longer time.—M. L. J.

TO CLEAN HEAD AND CLOTHES-BRUSHES.—Put a table-spoonful of pearlash into a pint of boiling water. Having fastened a bit of sponge to the end of a stick, dip it into the solution, and wash the brush with it; carefully going in among the bristles. Next pour over it some clean hot water, and let it lie a little while. Then drain it, wipe it with a cloth, and dry it before the fire.—J. GREGORY.

TO CLEAN SPONGE.—Immerse it in cold buttermilk, let it soak for a few hours, and wash it out in clean water, it will be perfectly clean and soft. This I have often tried, and never found it to fail.—J. E. C.

TO CLEAN A COMB.—Many of the readers of the _Practical Housewife_ may perhaps smile upon seeing so simple a recipe as the one I now send, but having during my experience as a housekeeper felt more annoyance from trifling than material causes, I venture to send my contribution. Tie one end of a strong silk thread to the handle of a wash-stand or bureau-drawer. Sit down before it with a towel spread on your lap, and holding the other end of the silk tightly in your left hand, take the comb in your right hand and pass it hard and carefully along the thread, which must be made to go in between all the teeth separately, so as to remove or scrape down all the impurities. Then rub the comb with a comb-brush, or a soft cloth; rinse it in warm soap-suds, and wipe it dry.—M. G., _Stockport_.

TO CLEAN BOTTLES INFECTED WITH BAD SMELLS.—Put into bottles so affected some pieces of gray or brown paper; fill them with water; shake the bottles strongly; leave them then a day or two in this state, when, finding them more or less affected, repeat the process, and afterwards rinse them with pure water.—S. S. T.

FOOD FOR INVALIDS.

One of the useful accomplishments of a lady is to understand how to make the invalid in her family comfortable. Food prepared by the kind hand of a wife, mother, sister, friend, has a sweeter relish than the mere ingredients can give, and a restorative power which money cannot purchase. These receipts will enable the watchful attendant to vary the food, as choice or symptoms may render expedient. Jellies and meat broths, together with the various kinds of farinaceous food, are the lightest on the stomach, as well as generally the most nutritious for an invalid. Milk preparations are useful when the lungs are weak. Food that the stomach can digest without distressing the patient is the kind that gives actual strength.

TO MAKE GRUEL.—Mix a dessert-spoonful of fine oatmeal or patent groats, in two of cold water, add a pint of boiling water, and boil it ten minutes, keeping it stirred. _Or_,—boil a quarter of a pint of groats in a quart of water for about two hours, and strain through a sieve. Stir into the gruel a small piece of butter, and some sugar, nutmeg, or ginger, grated; or, if it be not sweetened, add a small pinch of salt.

BARLEY GRUEL.—Wash four ounces of pearl-barley; boil it in two quarts of water with a stick of cinnamon, till reduced to a quart; strain and return it into the saucepan with sugar and three-fourths of a pint of milk. Heat up, and use as wanted.

FLOUR CAUDLE.—Mix, smoothly, a table-spoonful of flour with a gill of water; set on the fire in a saucepan a gill of new milk, sweeten it, and, when it boils, add the flour and water; simmer and stir them together for a quarter of an hour.

WHITE CAUDLE.—Make the gruel as above, strain through a sieve, and stir it till cold. When to be used, sweeten it to taste, grate in some nutmeg, and add a little white wine; a little lemon-peel or juice is sometimes added. The yolk of an egg, well beaten, may likewise be stirred in when the gruel is boiling.

RICE CAUDLE.—This may be made with water or milk; when it boils, add some ground rice, previously mixed smoothly with a little cold water; boil till thick enough, when sweeten it, and grate in nutmeg, or add a little powdered cinnamon.

ARROW-ROOT.—It is very necessary to be careful not to get the counterfeit sort; if genuine, it is very nourishing, especially for persons with weak bowels. Put into a saucepan half a pint of water, grated nutmeg, and fine sugar; boil up once, then mix it by degrees into a dessert-spoonful of arrow-root, previously rubbed smooth with two spoonfuls of cold water. _Or_,—Mix a dessert-spoonful of arrow-root, with a little cold water, have ready boiling water in a kettle, pour it upon the arrow-root until it becomes quite clear, keeping it stirred all the time; add a little sugar. Where milk may be taken, it is very delicious made in the same way with milk instead of water, a dessert-spoonful of arrow-root, and half a pint of milk; add a small bit of lemon-peel.

TAPIOCA.—Choose the largest sort, pour cold water on to wash it two or three times; then soak it in fresh water five or six hours, and simmer it in the same until it becomes quite clear; then put lemon-juice, wine, and sugar. The peel should have been boiled in it. It thickens very much.

SAGO.—Cleanse it by first soaking it an hour in cold water, and then washing it in fresh water. To a tea-cupful add a quart of water and a bit of lemon-peel, simmer it till the berries are clear, season it with wine and spice, and boil it all up together. The sago may be boiled with milk instead of water, till reduced to one-half, and served without seasoning.

SAGO MILK.—Cleanse as above, and boil it slowly, and wholly with new milk. It swells so much, that a small quantity will be sufficient for a quart, and when done it will be diminished to about a pint. It requires no sugar or flavouring.

GROUND RICE MILK.—Boil one spoonful of ground rice, rubbed down smooth, with one pint and a half of milk, a bit of cinnamon, lemon-peel and nutmeg. Sweeten when nearly done.

RESTORATIVE MILK.—Boil a quarter of an ounce of isinglass in a pint of new milk till reduced to half, and sweeten.

SUET MILK.—Cut one ounce of mutton or veal suet into shavings, and warm it slowly over the fire in a pint of milk, adding a little grated lemon-peel, cinnamon, and loaf sugar.

IMITATION OF ASSES’ MILK.—Boil together equal quantities of new milk and water; sweeten with white sugar-candy, and strain.—Or, Stir into a gill each of milk and boiling water a well-beaten egg, and sweeten with white sugar-candy.

BARLEY MILK.—Boil half a pound of washed pearl-barley in one quart of milk and half a pint of water, and sweeten: boil it again, and drink it when almost cold.

BAKED MILK.—Is much recommended for consumption. The milk should be put into a moderately warm oven, and be left in it all night.

CALF’S FEET AND MILK.—Put into a jar two calf’s feet with a little lemon-peel, cinnamon, or mace, and equal quantities of milk and water to cover them; tie over closely, and set in a slack oven for about three hours; when cold, take off the fat: and sweeten and warm as required.

SHEEP’S TROTTERS.—Simmer six sheep’s trotters, two blades of mace, a little cinnamon, lemon-peel, a few hartshorn shavings, and a little isinglass, in two quarts of water to one; when cold, take off the fat, and give nearly half a pint twice a day, warming with it a little new milk.

ISINGLASS.—Boil one ounce of isinglass shavings, forty Jamaica peppercorns, and a bit of brown crust of bread, in a quart of water, to a pint, and strain it. This makes a pleasant jelly to keep in the house; of which a large spoonful may be taken in wine and water, milk, tea, soup, or any way most agreeable.

GLOUCESTER JELLY.—Boil in two quarts of water till reduced to one quart, the following ingredients: hartshorn shavings, isinglass, barley and rice, one ounce of each. When this jelly, which is light and very nourishing, is to be taken, a few table-spoonfuls of it must be dissolved in a little milk, together with a bit of cinnamon, lemon-peel, and sugar. It will be very good without the seasoning.

BREAD JELLY.—Cut the crumb of a penny roll into thin slices, and toast them equally of a pale brown; boil them gently in a quart of water till it will jelly, which may be known by putting a little in a spoon to cool; strain it upon a bit of lemon-peel, and sweeten it with sugar.

RICE JELLY.—Boil half a pound of rice, and a small piece of cinnamon, in two quarts of water, for one hour; pass it through a sieve, and when cold it will be a firm jelly, which, when warmed in milk and sweetened, will be very nutritious; add one pint of milk to the rice, in the sieve, boil it for a short time, stirring it constantly, strain it, and it will resemble thick milk, if eaten warm.

STRENGTHENING JELLY.—Simmer in two quarts of soft water, one ounce of pearl-barley, one ounce of sago, one ounce of rice, till reduced to one quart; take a tea-cupful in milk, morning, noon, and night.

HEMP-SEED JELLY.—Bruise hemp-seeds, boil them in water, and strain; afterwards, simmer the liquor until it is of the thickness of gruel.

TAPIOCA JELLY.—Wash the tapioca, soak it for three hours in cold water, in which simmer it till dissolved with a piece of thin lemon-peel; then sweeten, and take out the peel before using.

TO MAKE PANADA IN FIVE MINUTES.—Set a little water on the fire with some sugar and a scrape of nutmeg and lemon-peel; meanwhile grate some crumbs of bread. The moment the mixture boils up, keeping it still on the fire, put the crumbs in, and let it boil as fast as it can. When of a proper thickness just to drink, take it off. _Or_,—Put to the water a bit of lemon-peel, mix the crumbs in, and, when nearly boiled enough, put some lemon or orange syrup. Observe to boil all the ingredients, for if any be added after, the panada will break and not jelly.

CHICKEN PANADA.—Boil a chicken, till about three parts ready, in a quart of water; take off the skin, cut the white meat off when cold, and put into a marble mortar; pound it to a paste with a little of the water it was boiled in, season with salt, a grate of nutmeg, and the least bit of lemon-peel. Boil gently for a few minutes to the consistency you like; it should be such as you can drink, though tolerably thick. This conveys great nourishment in a small compass.

SIPPETS.—When the stomach will not receive meat, sippets are very nutritious, and prepared in this simple manner:—On an extremely hot plate, put two or three sippets (small square pieces) of bread, and pour over them some gravy, from beef, mutton, or veal, with which no butter has been mixed. Sprinkle a little salt over.

BROTHS OF BEEF, MUTTON, AND VEAL.—Put two pounds of lean beef, one pound of scrag of veal, one pound of scrag of mutton, sweet herbs, and ten peppercorns, into a nice tin saucepan, with five quarts of water; simmer to three quarts, and clear off the fat when cold. Add one onion, if approved. Soup or broth made of different meats is more supporting, as well as better flavoured. To remove the fat, take it off when cold as clean as possible; and if there be still any remaining, lay a bit of clean blotting-paper on the broth when in the basin, and it will take up every particle. Or, if the broth is wanted before there is time to let it get cold, put a piece of cork up the narrow end of a funnel, pour the broth into it, let it stand for a few minutes, and the fat will rise to the top; remove the cork and draw off in a basin as much of the broth as is wanted, which will be perfectly free from fat.

FOR A QUICK-MADE BROTH.—Take a bone or two of a neck or loin of mutton, take off the fat and skin, set it on the fire in a small tin saucepan that has a cover, with three-fourths of a pint of water, the meat being first beaten and cut in thin bits; put a bit of thyme and parsley, and, if approved, a slice of onion. Let it boil very quickly; skim it; take off the cover if likely to be too weak, else cover it. Half an hour is sufficient for the whole process.

CALF’S FEET BROTH.—Boil two calf’s feet, two ounces of veal, and two of beef, the bottom of a penny loaf, two or three blades of mace, half a nutmeg sliced, and a little salt, in three quarts of water, to three pints; strain, and take off the fat.

CHICKEN BROTH.—May be made of any young fowl, which is afterwards to be brought to table; but the best sort is to be procured from an old cock or hen, which is to be stewed down to rags, with a couple of onions, seasoned with salt and a little whole pepper; skim and strain it.

A WEAKER KIND.—After taking off the skin and rump, put the body and legs of a fowl, from the white meat of which chicken panada has been made, into the water it was boiled in, with one blade of mace, one slice of onion, and ten white peppercorns. Simmer till the broth be of a pleasant flavour.

BEEF TEA.—Cut half a pound of lean fresh beef into slices, lay it in a dish, and pour over it a pint of boiling water; cover the dish and let it stand half an hour by the fire, then just boil it up, pour it off clear, and salt it very little.

VEAL TEA is made in the same way, and CHICKEN TEA also.

ANOTHER, TO DRINK COLD.—Take one pound of lean beef, clear it from every particle of skin, fat, or sinew, rasp or divide it into very small pieces; then put it into a jar, and pour a quart of boiling water upon it; plunge the jar into a kettle of boiling water, let it stand by the side of the fire, but not near enough to simmer, and allow it to grow cold. Then strain the beef tea through a muslin sieve, and, if the patient be very delicate, filter it through blotting-paper. This tea is to be taken when cold, and will remain upon the stomach when other nourishment fails; it may be given to infants.

EGGS.—An egg broken into a cup of tea, or beaten and mixed with a basin of milk, makes a breakfast more supporting than tea alone. An egg divided, and the yolk and white beaten separately, will afford two very wholesome draughts, and prove lighter than when taken together. Eggs very little boiled, or poached, taken in small quantities, convey much nourishment; the yolk only, when dressed, should be eaten by invalids.

STEW FOR PERSONS IN WEAK HEALTH.—Cut veal into slices, and put them into an earthen jar, with sliced turnips, and a little salt; cover closely, set the jar up to the neck in boiling water, and stew till the meat is tender.

DOMESTIC MANIPULATION.

Under the head of Domestic Manipulation, we propose giving a series of instructions on the numerous and essential manual operations that are constantly being required in every family, and which, whether they are well or ill done, must of necessity be performed. The term Domestic Manipulation, employed in the widest sense, would include all the manual operations required in a house, but we propose to limit it to such as partake in a slight degree of a chemical or other scientific character; thus the operations of Filtering, Decanting, Weighing, Measuring, Bottling, Corking, Unstoppering, Pounding, Heating, Boiling, Distilling, Cementing, &c., &c., will be included; whilst Dusting, Washing, and Scrubbing, though no less, in strictness, manipulations, will be passed over in silence. These general directions will be followed by a number of Receipts and Hints tried and recommended by numerous intelligent Housekeepers.

I.

CLEANING, DRYING, CORKING, TYING DOWN, STOPPERING, AND UNSTOPPERING.

CLEANING.—Perhaps no more effectual and easy mode of cleaning wine and beer bottles can be recommended than that commonly adopted, viz., the use of small shot and water; in the case of old port wine bottles, however, it often occurs that the mechanical action of the shot fails to remove the hardened crust from the interior; a small quantity of pearlash or soda, or still better, the washing liquids described in another page, added to the water, will soften the crust sufficiently to permit its easy removal; there is, however, one objection to the use of shot for the purpose of cleaning bottles; unless due care be taken, by the violence of the shaking it often happens that several become firmly wedged between the bottom and sides of the bottles, and are not removed by the subsequent rinsings with clean water, and if the bottles are used for acid wines or other liquids (almost all our home-made wines contain a considerable portion of free acid), the shots are slowly dissolved; and from the metallic arsenic which they contain, as well as from the lead itself, the liquid is rendered poisonous. This effect may be readily guarded against by removing any shots which may have become fixed, by a stiff wire slightly hooked at the end.

Decanters are formed of flint glass, which is much softer and more readily scratched than the common kinds, they require therefore a less rough treatment; in general, warm (not boiling) water, with the addition of a few pieces of coarse brown paper, and if requisite a little soda, will be found effectual; should greater force be required, a small portion of tow wrapped round the notched end of a moderately stiff wire, and used with a little strong soda, will be found sufficient. Sand or ashes should never be employed in cleaning decanters, as they roughen and totally disfigure the brilliant surface of the glass.

DRYING.—It is scarcely necessary to speak of the advantages of being able to dry thoroughly both decanters and common bottles; if the former, after having been cleaned, are put away wet, they become musty; and many liquids are much injured by being put into wet bottles. Some of our readers have doubtless experienced the inefficiency of the ordinary means for drying decanters, &c., after draining for some days they still remain damp, and if placed near a fire the warmth merely drives the vapour to the colder part of the vessel; they may, however, be readily and quickly dried after draining, by making them slightly warm and blowing in fresh air with a pair of bellows, which rapidly carries out the damp vapour, and leaves the vessel perfectly dry. If bellows are not at hand, the damp air may be _drawn out_ (not blown) with the mouth, assisted by a tube sufficiently long to reach nearly to the bottom of the decanter; in the laboratory a piece of glass tube is usually taken, being always at hand, but for domestic use a piece of paper may be rolled up so as to form an extemporaneous and effectual substitute.

CORKING.—Little can be said with regard to the corking of bottles, beyond stating the fact that cheap bad corks are always dear; the best corks are soft, velvety, and free from large pores; if squeezed they become more elastic and fit more closely. If good corks are used of sufficiently large size to be extracted without the corkscrew, they may be employed many times in succession, especially if they are soaked in boiling water after, which restores them to their original shape, and renews their elasticity.

TYING DOWN.—The operation of tying down corks merits a longer notice, as without it many effervescent wines and liquids could not be preserved. The most common mode of fastening down corks, is with the ginger beer knot, which is thus made:—First the loop is formed as in Fig. 1, then that part of the string which passes across the loop is placed on the top of the cork, and the loop itself passed down around the neck of the bottle, and by pulling the ends of the cord is made tight beneath the rim; the ends of the string are finally brought up, and tied either in a double knot, or in a bow on the top of the cork. When ginger beer is made at home it will be found most advantageous to use the best corks, and to tie them down with a bow, when both corks and strings may be made use of repeatedly.

For effervescent wines, such as champagne, gooseberry, &c., which require to be kept a longer time, and are more valuable, a securer knot is desirable, which may be made thus:—A loop as in _Fig. 2_ is first formed, and the lower end is then turned upwards and carried behind the loop, as shown at _Fig. 3_; it is then pulled through the loop as in _Fig. 4_, and in this state is put over the neck of the bottle; the part a being on one side, and the two parts of the loop on the other; on pulling the two ends the whole becomes tight round the neck, and the ends, which should be quite opposite, are to be brought up over the cork, twice twisted, as in _Fig. 5_, and then tied in a single knot.

STOPPERING.—The stoppering of bottles is an operation usually performed by the makers; it may, however, be useful to know that badly fitting stoppers may be readily fitted by re-grinding; this is done by dipping the stopper in a mixture of fine sand, or still better, emery and water, replacing it, and turning it backwards and forwards with a slight pressure; fresh sand must be applied from time to time. When the fitting is exact, so that the stopper turns freely without shaking, the whole may be finished off by using a little fine emery and oil.

UNSTOPPERING.—This operation is much more likely to be required than the one last described, for the stoppers of decanters, smelling-bottles, &c., from various causes, frequently become fixed, and many are the fractures both of bottles and stoppers, caused by the misdirected efforts to remove them. In treating of the various means that may be employed, we will mention them in the order in which they should be tried, beginning with the simpler and more easy, and passing on to those which are more effectual, and at the same time, unfortunately, more dangerous. The first method, then, that should be tried, is to press the stopper upwards with the fore-finger and thumb of the left hand (the other fingers holding the neck of the bottle), and at the same time giving the stopper a succession of short, sharp, light taps, with the wooden handle of a chisel, knife, or small hammer; care must be taken not to strike the stopper with sufficient force to break it, and it should be borne in mind that it is not the force of the blow, but the vibration, or jar, which is effectual in loosening it; should this plan be found ineffectual after a short trial, it may probably be from the stopper being cemented by some substance, such as the dried sugar of a sweet wine. In such cases we should endeavour to dissolve the cement by a suitable solvent, which should be placed in the groove between the stopper and the bottle; thus, if the stopper is cemented with sugar, gum, or salt, water may be used; in many circumstances, oil is advantageous, or spirit, or even strong acid may be used; whatever liquid is employed it should be allowed to remain some days, being renewed if requisite, and the tapping, &c., should be again had recourse to.

Should these methods fail, a piece of cloth may be dipped in very hot water and wrapped round the neck of the bottle, when the heat causes the expansion of the glass, and if the stopper be tapped or twisted _before_ the heat has had time to enlarge it, its removal may be effected; this operation must necessarily be a quick one, for if the stopper is heated and enlarged, as well as the bottle, it is obvious that no benefit will result. In the laboratory it is often customary to heat the bottle, not by a strip of cloth dipped in hot water, but by turning it rapidly over the flame of a lamp; in this way there is more danger of cracking the bottle, and the plan is not to be recommended in general, although employed with considerable success by those who, like operative chemists, are constantly in the habit of applying heat to glass vessels; it will at once be seen that the plan is fraught with great danger if applied to bottles containing inflammable liquids, as spirits, &c.

The most effectual mode of removing stoppers, especially those of small bottles, such as smelling-bottles, remains to be described. Take a piece of strong cord, about a yard or four feet in length, double it at the middle, and tie a knot (_Fig. 6_, _b_) so as to form a loop (_a_) of about four inches in length at the doubled end, bring the knot close to one side of the stopper, and tie the ends tightly together on the opposite side, as at _Fig. 7_, _e_, so as to fasten the string securely round the neck of the stopper; now pass one of the ends through the loop (_a_), and tie it firmly to the other end; the doubled cord is next to be placed over a bar or other support, then if the bottle is surrounded by a cloth to prevent accidents in case of fracture, and pulled downwards with a jerk, the force of which is gradually increased, it will be found that in a short time the stopper is liberated. Two precautions are requisite: one is, that the strain on both sides of the stopper is equal; the other, that care be taken that when the stopper is liberated, it is not dashed by the rebound against any hard substance, which would cause its fracture.

II.

CUTTING, GRINDING, AND WRITING ON GLASS.

We have described the most advantageous modes of extracting fixed stoppers from decanters, &c. It is possible that some of our readers may have followed our advice sufficiently well to have succeeded _in cracking the necks of their decanters_. In case any should have been so unfortunate, or rather we would say—if we were quite sure we were not addressing ladies—so clumsy, let them not despair; dexterity in manipulation comes by practice; and as no evil is without a remedy, we will next consider what can be done with the broken decanter. Unless it is cracked down to the bottom, it may be cut off and converted into a handsome sugar basin; or if not high enough for that purpose, will serve for a pickle dish, or a flower-stand, &c.; and in the same way, a tumbler broken at the upper part will furnish an elegant salt-cellar, or serviceable soap dish; and even common bottles, if sufficiently stout, may be made into useful jars, instead of being consigned to the dust-heap.

The operation of cutting glass, consists in leading a crack in the required direction; this is readily done by a hot iron rod, a piece of pointed burning charcoal, or, what is still better, a burning pastile—which is somewhat similar in its composition to those used for fumigation; and which latter, although rather expensive, and inconvenient from their shape, may be applied for the purpose. When the operation of cutting up glass vessels into useful forms is much had recourse to, pastiles are prepared for the purpose, being superior to a heated iron rod, as they continue to burn and retain their heat, whilst the latter requires to be re-heated, if the crack has to be led any considerable distance. Pastiles are readily made by rubbing up half an ounce of powdered gum tragacanth with water, so as to form a mucilage about as thick as ordinary starch; this should be allowed to remain a few hours, and then mixed with a quarter of an ounce of benzoin, previously dissolved in the smallest possible quantity of proof spirit; after mixing them together in a mortar, as much powdered charcoal should be added as will form a stiff paste, and the whole well worked together, rolled into sticks the size of a common black-lead pencil, and dried. As thus prepared, they should be free from cracks, and solid throughout; and on being ignited at the end, they will burn steadily away to a point. If an iron rod is used, it should be nearly as stout as the little finger, and taper at the end for an inch and a half to a blunt point. Before commencing the line along which it is wished to divide the glass, it should be marked with a pen and ink, and allowed to dry, when the iron, heated to dull redness, or the lighted extremity of the pastile, should be brought to the end of a crack, being held in a slanting direction with regard to the glass, as shown in the cut, and slowly moved in an oblique direction towards the line; the crack will be found to follow the heated point, and may be thus led as required, even passing over parts varying very considerably in thickness, as in the case of the flutings on a cut decanter; but it cannot, with certainty, be made to pass suddenly from a very thin to a very stout part, or the reverse: thus it may be led around the sides of a tumbler, but could hardly be made to pass down one side, across the bottom, and up the other. The rapidity with which the operation is performed, depends upon the heat of the iron or pastile; if the former is very hot, or the latter made to burn more vividly by blowing upon it, the operation is quickened, but it is not performed with so much certainty, as the crack may pass on further than is desirable: care should be taken not to lead the crack too near the edge of the vessel, or to another crack, as in that case it is apt to leave the proper course, and fly suddenly to the edge, to which an inexperienced operator should not attempt to go nearer than half an inch.

It sometimes occurs that a piece is broken out of a glass, without leaving any crack to commence from; in this case, one must be made, by heating the edge (one formed by the fracture, if possible), with the iron or pastile, and instantly applying the moistened finger. When a crack is formed which may be used as described above, care must be taken not to cause an extensive fracture, which may run across the intended line of division; this may be avoided by commencing the crack at some distance from the line, and by applying the heated point for a very short time, preferring to make two or three unsuccessful attempts rather than to hasten the operation, and risk the destruction of the glass. When a glass vessel has been thus divided, the edges are sufficiently sharp to cut the fingers in handling, and are usually wavy; it is therefore necessary to make them smooth and even. The most ready way of doing this is, by grinding them down on a flat sandstone or ordinary paving-stone, with a little sharp sand or emery, and water, taking care to move the glass in a circular direction, and not merely backwards and forwards; the smoothness of the whole will depend entirely on that of the stone, and on the fineness of the sand or emery employed. If, from any irregularity, there is much glass to grind away, it is preferable to commence with sand, and finish with emery on a smooth stone; if the edges are not thus ground down, they should have the sharp angles, which are really dangerous, removed by a fine file, which should be moistened with oil of turpentine or camphine, as this liquid has an extraordinary effect in increasing the action of the file upon the glass, and at the same time protecting the steel instrument from wear.

Advantageous as cracks are in glass vessels whenever we wish to separate them into two parts, they are by no means desirable under other circumstances; and it is as important to know how to stop their progress, as to lead them forward. This is readily done in stout glass, by drilling a hole about half an inch in advance of the crack, which gradually passes on into it, and then its further progress is arrested. Holes may be drilled in glass with a common drill and bow, the place being first marked with a file or flint, and the drill point kept wet with oil of turpentine. (It is hardly necessary to state, that a crack existing in the neck of a decanter, and liable to be forced apart with the stopper, could not be arrested in its progress by such means.) If necessary, a little emery powder may be used with the oil of turpentine; and after the operation, the hole must be filled up with some cement; if the vessel is to be used for holding liquids, a little fresh slaked lime, moistened with equal parts of white of egg and water, may be used for this purpose.

The grinding of glass on a flat stone with sand or emery, and water, is often useful in making a bottle stand steadily; and by its means a wine-glass with a broken foot may be turned to good account; for if as much of the stem as possible is knocked off, by striking it with the back of a knife, the remainder may be ground away so that the vessel will stand.

One of the most important Domestic Manipulations, although one of the most simple and easy, is the labelling of glass vessels. It is not too much to affirm, that scores of lives might have been saved if this had been attended to; in cases of accidental poisoning, we usually find that the victim has drunk from some bottle which has been put away without a label; and thus some corrosive liquid used for cleaning, or some poisonous lotion, has been inadvertently swallowed. One of the most ready modes of labelling glass, and other objects, consists in having at hand a sheet of paper, which has had spread on one side some gum water, mixed with half its weight of coarse brown sugar, and allowed to dry; this may be cut into labels, written on, and readily attached to glass by moistening with the tongue; the white margin of a sheet of postage stamps answers the purpose very well. If, however, acid liquids are used, or the vessel is placed in a damp situation, as a cellar, other means must be had recourse to. With a little practice it is easy to write in a legible, though not very conspicuous manner, on glass, with a gun-flint, or with the sharp-edged fragments of common flint. In the laboratory what is called a _writing_ diamond is used for this purpose; this should not be confounded with a glazier’s diamond, which is used for dividing, and not scratching glass. We would here caution our reader against writing on glass with a diamond ring, &c., as the practice injures the jewel considerably; in the glazier’s diamond, the natural edges of the crystal are used, which are not liable to injury as are the cut angles of a brilliant.