Chapter I: Preface

The following pages contain the description of a part of Africa hitherto unknown to Europeans, but which has recently been travelled over and explored by the Author. His journey was a tedious and a very anxious one, but happily brought to a close without loss of life or serious accident to any member of his large party, which altogether amounted to nearly forty men.

The result of this excursion has been to fill up that blank in our maps which, lying between the Cape Colony and the western Portuguese settlements, extends to the interior as far as the newly discovered Lake ’Ngami.

The country of the Damaras—warlike, pastoral Blacks—was in the first instance explored; beyond them he found a broad tract, inhabited by aboriginal Hottentots; and, again, to the north of these, the Ovampo, a race of intelligent and kindly negroes, who are careful agriculturists, and live in a land of great fertility.

On his return southwards, a quick journey was made into the interior, near the line of the southern tropic, until a road, which had recently been travelled from the borders of the Cape Colony to Lake ’Ngami, was reached, and in this way a practicable route between the Lake and the Atlantic was proved to exist.

Few new objects of natural history were either collected or heard of, as the tract in question was for the most part a high barren plateau, that supported but little variety of either animal or vegetable life.

The journey may perhaps produce a useful result, by indicating a very favourable opening to missionary enterprise, namely, among the Ovampo. The writer has no wish to commit himself to extreme views either on this or on kindred subjects, but, if philanthropists continue anxious to promote African civilisation, the remarkable advantages of Ovampo-land, as a leverage ground in these matters, should not be lost sight of. The healthiness of the climate, the position of the country, the intelligence and orderly habits of the natives, their travelling and trading propensities, and, lastly, the ready access which it admits of from a healthy sea-coast, form most cogent recommendations. In addition to these, though bordering on slave-producing countries, Ovampo-land is itself exempt from that scourge, and there would be one prejudice the less for Christian teachings to encounter.

A traveller who, starting with the same views that the Author did, chose to start from Little Fish Bay, or elsewhere, in Benguela, and explore to the eastwards and southwards, would be likely to make a very successful journey. He would find shooting in abundance, and have opportunities of learning everything about as highly interesting a race of negroes as is probably to be found in the whole of Africa. The Author’s fate certainly led him over a great deal of barren country, and many monotonous days were passed; still he cannot regret that he undertook the journey, for, besides the enjoyment of robust health in Africa, habits of self-reliance in rude emergencies were acquired, which are well worth possessing, though an English education hardly tends to promote them.

A question is commonly put to explorers, “Why could you not go further when you had already succeeded in going so far?” and the answer to this is, that several independent circumstances concur in stopping a man after he has been travelling for a certain time and distance. He _must_ refit, for his cattle become worn out; his articles of exchange, which are his money, expended; and, indeed, the medium of currency among the people he at last reaches being unknown to him, has of course been unprovided for. His clothes, necessaries, luxuries, all become exhausted, and the _capital_ out of which he has to support himself fast disappears. On the other hand, infinite difficulty is found in acquiring the confidence of a strange nation; a new language has to be learnt; native servants refuse, and are unfitted, to accompany their master in countries strange and probably hostile to them, and whom months of joint labours had educated into a kind of sympathy with his cause; and so, when an explorer intends to cross the frontier of a neighbouring tribe, he finds that all his old travelling arrangements are more or less broken up, and that the further progress of the expedition will require nearly as many preparations and as much delay as if it were then about quitting the borders of civilisation. But his energies are reduced, and his means become inadequate to the task, and therefore no alternative is left him but to return while it is still possible for him to do so.

It is therefore not to be expected that any large part of the vast unexplored region before us will yield its secrets to a single traveller, but, rather, that they will become known step by step through various successive discoveries; and as the experience of nearly a century corroborates these views, it is probable that for years to come there will still remain ample room in Africa for men inclined for adventure to carry out in them, if nowhere else, the _métier_ of explorers.

FRANCIS GALTON.

8, ST. JAMES’S PLACE, _April 27th, 1853_.

DATES OF MY JOURNEYINGS.

1850 | August | Sail from Cape Town and land at Walfisch Bay.
| September | Travel with cart and mules to Otjimbinguè.
| October } | Buy oxen and send them down to fetch the waggons,
| November} | while I stay at Otjimbinguè and at Barmen.
| December | Make an excursion on ride-oxen to Erongo.
1851 | January | Take waggons to Schmelen’s Hope, and ride thence to
| | beyond Rehoboth.
| February | Interviews at Schmelen’s Hope; adjacent country is
| | explored.
| March | Travel with the waggons to the northward.
| April | Pass Omanbondè—reach Okamabuti—a waggon breaks down.
| May | Meet the Ovampo caravan, and return with them on
| | ride-oxen to Ondonga.
| June | Stay a fortnight at Nangoro’s, then go back to
| | Okamabuti.
| July | Return southwards with the waggons by the Omoramba.
| August | Reach Barmen and go on to Jonker’s.
| September | Take waggon to Elephant Fountain, ride thence on
| | ox-back to Okomavaka.
| October | Cross plain to ’Tounobis; stay a week and return.
| November | Travel with waggons down towards the coast.
| December | Reach Walfisch Bay and wait for the ship.

LATITUDES AND LONGITUDES OF PRINCIPAL POINTS.

See p. 161, vol. xxii., “Journal of Royal Geographical Society,” for details of the calculations and for further latitudes.

South Latitude. East Longitude.
Schmelen’s Hope | 22° 0′ | 16° 56′
Okamabuti | 19° 31′ | 18° 20′
Nangoro’s Werft in Ondonga | 17° 59′ | 16° 14′
Elephant Fountain | 22° 27′ | 18° 59′
’Tounobis (or Otchombindè) | 21° 55′ | 21° 55′

ITINERARY OF MY PRINCIPAL ROUTES.

From WALFISCH BAY to NANGORO’S 719 English Miles.
” ” ’TOUNOBIS 518 ”

The hours given are those of actual travelling, _exclusive of all delays_. I allow 2½ English miles for each hour; but, reckoning _as the crow flies_ from point to point, 2 _geographical_ miles will be found to be very near the truth.

+------+---------------------------++------+---------------------------+
|Hours.| WALFISCH BAY TO BARMEN. ||Hours.| BARMAN TO OMANBONDÈ. |
| | 207 Miles. || | 219 Miles. |
+------+---------------------------++------+---------------------------+
| |From Walfisch Bay to— || |From Barmen to— |
|1 |Sand Fountain. ||8 |Schmelen’s Hope. |
|5 |Scheppmansdorf. ||1¾ |Okandu. |
|16 |Oosop Gorge. [No W.] ||5¼ |Okamabondè, |
|9 |Daviéep Gorge. ||4½ |Kutjiamakompè. |
|13 |Mouth of Tsobis R. [W.] ||6½ |Okandjoë. [No W.] |
|7 |Tsobis. ||6¼ |Omoramba R. [No W.] |
|7¾ |Kurrikoop. [No W.] ||2½ |Okatumba. |
|2 |Otjimbinguè. ||2½ |Otjikururumè. |
|3½ |In river-bed. ||2½ |Ontekeremba. |
|5 |Okandu. ||5 |Wells. |
|2 |Ondjiadjikennè. ||3 |Ozukaro. |
|4 |Etamondjua. ||5¼ |Ombarombonga. |
|4 |Reedy Fountain. ||8¾ |Wells. [No W.] |
|3½ |Barmen. ||20 |Okavarè (or Omanbondè) [W.]|
+------+ |+------+ |
|82¾ or 207 miles. ||91¾ or 228 miles. |
+------+---------------------------++------+---------------------------+
+------+---------------------------++------+---------------------------+
|Hours.| BARMEN TO ’TOUNOBIS. ||Hours.| OMANBONDÈ TO NANGORO’S. |
| | 310 Miles. || | 284 Miles. |
+------+---------------------------++------+---------------------------+
| |From Barmen to— || |From Omanbondè to— |
|3 |Foot of first hills. ||10 |Okatjokeama, S. Vley. [W.] |
|11½ |Katjimahas old kraal. [W.] ||4¾ |Okapukua. |
|4 |Eikhams. ||4¼ |Otjamuneè. |
|12¼ |Wells on Quieep R [W.] ||3¼ |Okamabuti. |
|5 |Bend of Quieep R. ||4 |Namboshua. |
|18½ |Noosop R. [No W.] ||6 |Ootui. |
|2½ |Kurrikoop. ||8 |Otchikango. [No W.] |
|1¾ |Water in Noosop R. ||12 |Otchikoto. [No W.] |
|13 |Elephant Fountain. [No W.] ||9¼ |Otjando. [No W.] |
|11½ |Twas. [No W.] ||14½ |Omutchamatunda. [No W.] |
|9 |Okaietoura. [W.] ||10½ |Wells in Flat. [No W. for |
|6½ |Okanyindu [W.] || | 9½ hrs.] |
|5½ |Okomavaka. ||21 |Vleys, 2 hours in Ondonga. |
|20½ |’Tounobis. [No W.] || | [No W.] |
| | ||6 |Nangoro’s Werft. |
+------+ |+------+ |
|124½ or 311 miles. ||113½ or 284 miles. |
+------+---------------------------++------+---------------------------+

The letters in brackets affixed to those stages which exceed 5 hours, mean as follows:—[W.] that there is water sufficient in quantity for cattle on the road in one or more places, [No W.] that there is not.

CONTENTS.

Page

CHAPTER I.

Determine to travel in Africa.—Motives for the
Journey.—Preparations.—Stock in Trade.—An Emigrant
Ship.—Arrival at Cape Town.—Dangers of the Road.—Change
of Route.—Determine to proceed by Walfisch Bay.—Necessary
Outfit.—Prospects of the Route.—Travelling
Cortège.—Servants and Dogs.—Arrival at Walfisch
Bay.—The Natives.—Extraordinary Mirage.—The Kuisip
River.—Tobacco.—Ride-Oxen.—Disembarking.—Misadventure at
Starting.—Perils of the Desert.—The ’Nara.—The Mission at
Scheppmansdorf 1

CHAPTER II.

Sand Fountain.—A Lesson to the Natives.—A Present.—News of
a Lion.—Scheppmansdorf.—A narrow Escape.—A Missionary’s
Establishment.—Native Huts.—Missions.—A Lion Hunt.—Preparations
for the Road.—Native Trees.—The Hottentots.—Character
of the Country.—Mode of breaking in an Ox.—Arrangement
of the Baggage.—A Prosperous Start.—The Swakop.—Night
Bivouac.—Labours of the March.—Loss of a Horse and a Mule.—The
Lions’ Chase.—Attempt to avenge the Loss.—Animal Food.—The
Ghou Damup.—Erongo Mountain.—Intense Heat.—The Tsobis
River.—Ride-Oxen.—Native Servants.—Their Cape Town Life.—A
Giraffe Hunt.—Change of Country.—An Ostrich Egg.—Approach to
Otjimbinguè.—Hans Larsen 24

CHAPTER III.

Hear ill News.—Engage Hans.—Ride to Barmen.—En route.—Oxen
_versus_ Mules.—Arrive at Barmen.—Jonker’s Attack.—Previous
History.—Oerlams and Europeans.—Hottentots and
Bushmen.—Establishment of Missions.—Native Feuds.—Dislike to
Missions.—Obstruction to Travellers.—Write to Jonker.—Buy Oxen
from Hans.—Breaking them in.—Attacks of Distemper.—Complete
my Encampment.—Damara Digging.—Native Hunting.—Oxen sent
to the Bay.—I go to Barmen.—Damara Thorn-trees.—Jonker
writes to me.—My Plans.—The Ovampo.—First Rain.—Hottentot
Beauties.—Hyena’s Insolence.—Damara Ferocity.—Cruel
Murder.—Mutilated Victim.—Message to Chiefs.—Their Replies 59

CHAPTER IV.

I go to meet the Waggons.—Start for Erongo.—En route.—Damara
features.—Gabriel in a Scrape.—The Mountain Erongo.—Chase
Zebras.—Ghou Damup Huts.—A Black Coquette.—Return to
Waggons.—Leave Otjimbinguè.—Mishaps.—How to encamp and water
Oxen.—Arrive at Barmen, thence to Schmelen’s Bay.—Ride
to Eikhams.—A doomed Sufferer.—Visit Jonker.—Conference
with him.—Swartboy and Amiral.—Ride on to Rehoboth.—Umap’s
Judgment.—Obtain Interpreters.—Return to Rehoboth.—Murder a Dog
and pay for it.—Conference at Eikhams.—Legislating.—Proposed
Conference.—Mules run quite away.—Schmelen’s Hope.—Dates 95

CHAPTER V.

Personnel.—Commissariat.—Daily Allowances.—Start on the
Expedition.—Damara Obtuseness.—Inability to count.—Information
withheld.—Kahikenè sends to us.—Arrive on the high
Tableland.—Superstitions on Food.—Meet Kahikenè.—His
Difficulties.—Gives me Advice.—Information about the
Road.—Four Oxen stolen.—The Culprits are punished.—Recognising
lost Oxen.—Hear of another Road.—Reach Omatako.—African
Puma.—Eshuameno.—Chipping the front Teeth.—View from the
Hill.—Ja Kabaca.—Climb Omuvereoom.—A Snake.—Seriously
obstructed by the Thorns.—Reach Otjironjuba.—How to make
Soap.—We catch some Bushmen.—Learn a little and travel
on.—Doubts about our route.—Arrive at a Werft.—Are guided
onwards.—Omanbondè.—Hippopotami 128

CHAPTER VI.

Mistake a Lion for an Antelope.—Explore a Road.—Reach
Palms.—Return and bring the Waggons.—Experiences of African
Travel.—Guide decamps and we find another.—Settle at
Okambuti.—The first Elephant.—Waggon breaks down.—Make a Strong
Camp.—Chapupa’s History.—Savages _versus_ Europeans.—Ride on
to the Ovampo.—Method of searching for Water.—Damaras are bad
Guides.—Find some Bushmen.—We start, but are ordered back.—The
Ovampo Caravan.—Chikorongo-onkompè.—Pronunciation of the letter
L.—Salt, not a Necessary of Life.—Damaras never eat it.—Return
to Chapupa’s Werft.—Arrange a Present for Nangoro.—Dressed and
tanned Leather.—Hear of Kahikenè’s Death.—Damara Creed.—Eandas
and Omakuru.—Ceremonies.—Huts and Finery.—Chaunts and
Music.—Damara Language.—Prefixes 162

CHAPTER VII.

Damara Helpmates.—Marriage Tie.—Caravan to Ovampo-land.—Yearly
Traffic.—Otchikoto.—Improvised Chaunts.—Reach an Ovampo
Cattle-post.—Archery Practice.—The Parent Tree.—We reach
Ondonga.—Corn, Beans, and Palms.—Fruit-trees.—Native
Beer.—Density of the Population.—Encamp by Nangoro’s
Village.—Cannot obtain Pasturage.—Nangoro pays us a
Visit.—Ovampo Belles.—We go to a Ball.—Description of
Dances.—Charms and Counter-charms.—Nangoro’s Palace.—The
Great River.—Prospects.—The King is crowned.—His lawful
Successors.—The Queens’ Duties.—Ovampo Dentists.—Surgical
Practice 195

CHAPTER VIII.

We are ordered to return.—Hesitation.—The Slave dealings
here.—Future of Ovampo-land.—A Field for Missionaries.—Best
way of getting there.—Slavery and Servitude.—Giving Men
away.—Arrange my Packs.—Start Homeward.—Leave Ondonga.—The Oxen
suffer severely.—Reach Okamabuti.—The Waggons are safe.—Start
for Omaramba.—Okavarè.—Elephants visit us.—Ice every
night.—Pass Omagundè.—Reach Barmen 225

CHAPTER IX.

The Waggons are condemned.—Messengers to the Cape.—The
Kaoko.—History of Damara-land.—Ghou Damup Genealogies.—Start
for Elephant Fountain.—Excessive Drought.—Engage Eybrett.—Sell
my Cart and Mules.—Travel from Eikhams.—Shooting Giraffes in
the Dusk.—Elephant Fountain.—Numerous Pitfalls.—Plundering
Expeditions.—The Kubabees reach ’Ngami.—Trouble of taking
Observations.—Leave Waggon and ride to the East.—Engage
Saul.—Hans and a Lion.—We enter the Bushman Tract.—Rhinoceros
Skulls.—Hear of the Kubabees Hottentots.—Start for
’Tounobis.—Shoot a White Rhinoceros.—Reach ’Tounobis.—Elephant
in a Pitfall.—Prepare for Sport.—Night-Watching for
Game.—Rhinoceros Veal.—Opera-glasses.—Herd of Elephants.—Fights
and Frolics.—Bulk of the Rhinoceros.—A Picturesque
Finale.—Spring Hares.—Remarks on my Route.—Unicorns
and Cockatrices.—Bushmen Springes.—Setting Guns at
Night.—Description of Plate.—Poisoned Arrows 246