Chapter XI: Section IX: (trunk Route) (1)

ABERGAVENNY TO GLOUCESTER VIA NEWPORT AND MONMOUTH, 84¼ MILES

DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

Miles.
=Abergavenny= to Raglan Castle 9
=Raglan Castle= to Usk 5¼
=Usk= to Caerleon 7¾
=Caerleon= to Newport 3¼
=Newport= to Caerwent 11
=Caerwent= to Chepstow 5
=Chepstow= to Tintern 5¼
=Tintern= to Monmouth 11
=Monmouth= to Whitchurch 4½
=Whitchurch= to Ross 6
=Ross= to Lea 4½
=Lea= to Dursley Cross 3
=Dursley Cross= to Gloucester 8¾

NOTES FOR DRIVERS

Abergavenny to Newport.=--No steep hills, fine surface.

Newport to Ross.=--A splendid road; at Chepstow a hill 1 in 12.

At =Whitchurch= a dangerous hill, 1 in 10, with poor surface.

After passing =Goodrich= the Wye is crossed by Kerne Bridge, where a toll is charged for motor-cars.

=Ross to Gloucester.=--Very good; no stiff gradients.

PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Raglan.=--Village and church; beautiful ruins of the castle; picturesque scenery.

=Usk.=--A village, with ruins of castle and a Norman church.

=Caerleon.=--A village, with museum of Roman antiquities; the amphitheatre.

=Newport.=--A busy port; ruins of the castle; interesting church of St. Woollos; the docks.

=Caerwent.=--Small village with Roman remains; Caldicott Castle is a little to south of route.

=Chepstow.=--A market town; the castle, a fine example of a Norman fortress; the church, chiefly of Norman architecture.

=Tintern Abbey.=--One of the most beautiful ruins in England.

=Tintern Parva.=--Hamlet, with small Early English church.

=Monmouth.=--A pleasant county town; the county buildings; Monnow Bridge or Western Gate; church, modern except tower.

=Symond's Yat.=--Beautiful scenery on the Wye.

=Goodrich Castle.=--On the Wye; beautiful ruins of one of the earliest castles built in England.

=Ross.=--Picturesque little town; Wilton Castle and bridge; the market hall; the 'Man of Ross'; the church, good Early English work, with interesting monuments; the castle remains.

=Dursley Cross.=--The Long Hope; very fine views.

=Gloucester.=--Old-fashioned county town; a grand cathedral, with tomb of Edward II.; the Guildhall; the museum; Llanthony Abbey; the churches of St. Catherine, St. Mary de Lode, St. Mary de Crypt, and others; many old timbered houses; the New Inn.

[Map: (TRUNK) No. 9. ABERGAVENNY TO GLOUCESTER.]

[Map: ABERGAVENNY TO GLOUCESTER.]

Soon after leaving Abergavenny the classic portico of Coldbrook House, in its large park, is passed upon the left. Looking backwards over the route, the picturesque situation of Abergavenny is seen, with the Sugar Loaf, nearly 2,000 feet in height, towering up beyond. Upon the right Blorenge Hill stands out boldly, a great rounded mass clothed with plantations to the summit. It is a prominent feature in the landscape for some time.

Between Abergavenny and Llanvihangel-on-Usk the road follows the railway-line and the river, and at the latter place a pretty stretch of Usk scenery is met, while the fine church of Llangattock-juxta-Usk, where there are some awkward turnings in the road, is well worth a visit. Just beyond Llanvihangel the road to Raglan branches off to the left, and a glance backwards shows the great mass of the Brecknock Beacons silhouetted against the western sky. Clytha Castle, a building dating from 1790, stands near this parting of the ways. Although so near the border-line between England and Wales, the stereotyped whitewashed cottages of Wales are still to be seen.

RAGLAN

The road to the castle turns to the left in the middle of the village, and stops abruptly at a meadow in which are the entrance-gates. (_Admission to the castle 6d. at any reasonable time on weekdays; on Sundays from 2.30 to 5._)

A description of Raglan Castle that will give an approximate idea of the exquisite beauty of this ruin has yet to be written; many have attempted it, but all have fallen short of the charming reality. It is a poem in stone; a crystallized ideal of all that was beautiful in medieval architecture; the embodiment of centuries of progressive emulation in castle-building, now mellowed by the hand of time, and with its corners and rough edges covered by clinging masses of creepers. It is eminently the most beautiful ruin to be met with in this western tour. The chief characteristic is undoubtedly the detached keep, which was built after the main structure; the element of romance and mystery haunts one while looking down upon the dark waters of the moat encircling this keep, and one feels a disinclination to leave the place, although other castles await one. No part of the building is of a date anterior to Henry V., and it was chiefly erected by Sir William ap Thomas and his son, William, Earl of Pembroke, who was beheaded in 1469.

Subsequent architecture, however, may be traced down to the time of Charles I. It came into the possession of the Beaufort family (the present owner is the Duke of that name) by the marriage of an ancestor. The Earl of Richmond, afterwards Henry VII., was a prisoner here for a time, and Charles I. sought refuge within these walls after Naseby, in 1645. It was besieged by Fairfax in 1646, and dismantled by Act of Parliament.

Raglan Church is not worthy of much attention if time is short. The tower was rebuilt, it is said, after having been demolished for strategic purposes by Cromwell's orders.

USK

Usk was formerly a Roman station, and in the immediate vicinity there are several encampments, both Roman and British, where excellent views are obtainable over the surrounding country, reaching to the mountains near Abergavenny and to the wooded summits about Monmouth.

~The Castle~, now dismantled and covered with ivy, stands upon a prominent hill to the north; the Parliamentarians were responsible for its destruction.

~The Church~ is of Norman origin, with a tower rebuilt in recent years.

CAERLEON

'For Arthur on the Whitsuntide before
Held court at old Caerleon upon Usk.'
_Idylls of the King._

The name of Caerleon brings vivid recollections to the mind of the Round Table and King Arthur, but its history commenced before the sixth century, when the great Pendragon flourished. The name Caerleon means 'The Camp of the Legion,' the Roman _Isca Silurum_, the capital city of the province of _Britannia Secunda_. After the Roman occupation it became a seat of learning. Remains of villas, Roman walls, and other traces of the conquerors of the world, abound, and the local museum is rich in treasures--chiefly of that period, but by no means confined to it. The building is upon the farther side of the churchyard. (_There is no fixed charge, but a box for contributions. Key at the schoolhouse opposite._) The church is Early English, with traces of Norman work in it. To the right of the schoolhouse a lane leads for about a hundred yards to a field on the left, opposite a racecourse, where the amphitheatre, 220 feet by 190 feet, may be seen. Excavations have revealed the stone seats surrounding this concave site, known locally as 'King Arthur's Round Table.' In the main street of the sleepy little town some old timbered houses are found, and of the once famous castle nothing now remains except a small tower, which once protected the bridge over the river, behind the Hanbury Arms Inn. The few houses upon the other bank of the Usk are known as 'Ultra Pontem,' a most remarkable instance of persistence and survival. It is difficult when walking through the streets of Caerleon to realize that London, York, and this little place were once the three chief cities of Britain.

NEWPORT

Newport is an example of rapid growth from a small market town into a flourishing port, with extensive docks, wharves, and jetties. It, however, may claim a high antiquity, for it formed a post during the Roman period.

~The Castle.~--This was at one time an extensive building, and the river face of it is still of impressive proportions. For many years the ruin was occupied by a brewery, but the town has lately gained possession of the sadly-diminished fortress. A deep moat, filled at high tide, defended the walls of the bailey on the north, west, and south sides, but all this has vanished, leaving only the eastern side, with three imposing towers, washed by the muddy waters of the Usk. The Norman Fitzharon, who conquered Glamorgan, built a castle at Newport towards the close of the eleventh century; but the existing structure is three centuries later, and was, to some extent, remodelled in the fifteenth century. The town was protected by a wall as late as Leland's time, and he speaks of three gates. One of these was close to the inn, called the West Gate to this day. Conspicuous in the High Street is the house of the _murringer_, a person whose duties were in connection with the guarding of the wall.

~The Church of St. Woollos~ has been restored, but preserves many of its Norman features, and contains interesting memorials, some of them of considerable antiquity. A remarkable feature is the separation of the tower from the church by a small building, the Chapel of St. Mary, believed by some ecclesiologists to be the primitive church founded _c._ 550, and, if so, the most ancient building still used for Christian worship in the United Kingdom. The two structures are divided by a good Norman arch, the columns of which appear to be of Roman origin, and were possibly brought from Caerleon.

During the Chartist riots the Mayor of Newport, backed by some soldiers, defended himself from a mob headed by Jack Frost. Bullet marks may be seen upon a wooden pillar in the West Gate Hotel, where the Mayor concentrated his defence, many of the rioters being killed and wounded.

* * * * *

The road from Newport to Caerwent gives wide views over the alluvial flats between it and the Estuary of the Severn, protected from inundations by extensive embankments, while to the north the great woods lying upon high land are a pleasing contrast. At first the road is nearly flat, but it becomes undulating near Caerwent. This road is part of the _Via Julia_, which commenced near the mouth of the Severn, passed through Caerwent and Caerleon, and terminated at Neath in Glamorganshire.

~Cencoed Castle~ lies upon the right hand; the remains are not very extensive, consisting chiefly of a gateway flanked with turrets. A mansion was at one time incorporated with the main portion of the castle, but was subsequently abandoned, and now the whole of the buildings form a farmhouse.

~Penhow Castle~ lies by the side of the road, near the village of the same name. A short time after the Norman Conquest this fortress was in the possession of the Seymours. It seems to have been at one period fairly extensive, but only an old square tower with battlements remains, and this also has been converted into a farmhouse.

CAERWENT

is a small village with no pretensions of importance, although the descendant of a strong Roman town. The walls stand from 10 to 12 feet thick, are well preserved, and are similar in many respects to those at Carnarvon. A good facing of stone is backed up by a solid mass of concrete, and then a supporting bank of earth is raised behind them. The church occupies a prominent position, but does not possess any noteworthy feature. ~Caldicott~ ~Castle~, lying to the south of the route, has extensive remains of the foundation of the twelfth century, and at the same time some indications of Saxon work belonging to the previous fortalice built upon the site. Passing Crick, Mathern is perceived upon the right. The Bishops of Llandaff had a palace here in medieval times, and portions of it are still in existence, incorporated with the modern farm-buildings.

CHEPSTOW

is a market town and river port occupying a slope on the western bank of the Wye, and surrounded by beautiful and sometimes imposing scenery.

~The Castle~ is the dominating feature in the town, and is one of the finest examples of a Norman fortress that has been preserved. It stands upon a rocky eminence, and occupies nearly three acres. Founded by Fitz-Osborn, Earl of Hereford, in the eleventh century, it was almost rebuilt in the thirteenth. It was garrisoned by the King during the Civil War, but surrendered in 1645 to the Parliamentarians. The castle was divided into four great courts, and a number of round towers defended the exterior walls, while a deep ditch upon the land side, now used as a public resort, completed the defences.

~The Church of St. Mary~ is built near the river, and is coeval with the castle. A priory stood here in the time of King Stephen, and the nave of the present church is the nave of the priory chapel. The larger part of the building is Norman, while the western doorway is an exceptionally fine example of the period. The tombs of Somerset, second Earl of Worcester, and Elizabeth, his Countess, are worthy of special notice.

The road to Tintern gives at first a view of the remains of an ancient bridge opposite Chepstow Castle, which, when in use, rose and fell with the tide. Piercefield Park lies upon the right hand, with an early camp amongst the trees. At St. Arvans the road bears to the right, and a number of S turns are met. Near here is the well-known 'Lovers' Leap.' Moss Cottage stands by the road farther on, with the Windcliff, famous for its glorious view of the Wye, above it. Upon the opposite bank of the river, and beyond the railway, is a lengthy section of Offa's Dyke, and probably a glimpse may be obtained from the road of the Devil's Pulpit.

TINTERN ABBEY

Tintern Abbey occupies a beautiful site upon one of the loveliest rivers in England, and the ruins have been claimed by many as the most picturesque in existence; but many other roofless abbey churches, placed in the same exquisite surroundings, would appear to equal advantage, and one is inclined to attribute Tintern's fame to its scenery rather than to its architecture. The abbey owes much to Roger Bigod, Earl of Norfolk, and a descendant of the De Clares, who, according to the records, provided for extensive building in the middle of the thirteenth century; but much of the architecture, especially that in the south wall of the chapter-house, speaks of an earlier date. The cloisters are late Perpendicular (1469), and were undoubtedly of great magnificence. The abbey was dissolved in 1537, and since then the buildings have gradually fallen into decay. The structural parts which may be recognized are: the church, with north and south transepts; cloisters, on the north side of the nave; sacristy and monks' library, adjoining the north wall of the north transept; chapter-house and monks' parlour, monks' dayroom, parlour, refectory and almoner's room, all to the north; together with the kitchen, buttery, lavatory, and other small rooms.

The road from Tintern accompanies the Wye in conjunction with the railway-line, and beautiful hanging woods, broken up with grey cliffs, form lovely backgrounds to every view.

~Tintern Parva~ is a small hamlet with a church erected in the Early English period, but not of great interest. At Bigsweir Bridge the river is crossed and the turning to the left taken. Offa's Dyke now lies upon the right hand.

~Redbrook~ is a village placed in a small combe of great beauty. The church, with its Perpendicular tower, is worth seeing. The monuments to John Joce and his wife, _temp._ Edward III., are preserved there, together with two priests and a brass showing a 'free miner.'

MONMOUTH

The situation of Monmouth is an ideal one, as it is surrounded by hills, through which the Wye, the Monnow, and the Trothy flow. It was at one time fortified by a surrounding wall pierced by four gates; but the Monnow, or Western Gate, dating from 1270, is regarded by some writers as a toll-gate rather than one of those belonging to the wall. This gate stands upon the Monnow Bridge, and is a strikingly picturesque feature of the town. Of the Roman origin of Monmouth (the _Blestium_ of Antoninus) there are at present no traces, but it was a fortified station as early as the Saxon period.

~The Church of St. Mary~ was rebuilt from the designs of Street in 1881, with the exception of the tower and the tall and very slender spire. Near it, in Priory Street, is a building called 'Geoffrey's Study,' possessing a Perpendicular window corbelled out on brackets. It cannot possibly have been used by Geoffrey of Monmouth, after whom it is named, as he died in 1154. The building, or, more correctly, the old portion of it, is a remnant of the domestic buildings of the Benedictine Priory.

~St. Thomas's Church~, in Overmonnow, contains some Norman architecture. Near the door of the church stands an elaborate cross.

~The Shire Hall~, built in 1724, has a solemn façade bearing in the centre a niche filled with a metal statue of Henry V., the hero of Agincourt. One cannot be long in Monmouth without being reminded of Harry of that ilk, for the square in front of the Shire Hall, formerly the bull-ring, is now called Agincourt Square. Many quaint old houses and inns still exist in the town, the Robin Hood in Monnow Street and the Queen's Head in Wyebridge Street being good examples of the picturesque hostelry, so attractive after journeying for many miles in Wales, where every town is uniformly dreary in its architecture. Monmouth Castle stood on a raised site close to the church. It was a ruin at the beginning of the seventeenth century, and where the keep stood there is a house of that period. There are still, however, some sections of walls, and one window of the great hall survives.

* * * * *

On leaving Monmouth by the Ross Road, the little parish church of ~Dixton~ is soon encountered, and farther on the beautiful level height called King Arthur's Plain is seen across the river. At times it presents the appearance of towers belonging to a castle.

(It is advisable not to take cars down the road marked 'To
Symond's Yat and the Hotel,' between Kerne Bridge and
Whitchurch, as it is very narrow and rough. The road from
Whitchurch is better.)

~Symond's Yat~ is a rock which towers up to 800 feet above the surface of the river. The ascent is quite easy, and from the upper part a magnificent view is to be obtained. The scenery at this part of the Wye is of quite exceptional beauty. Between the road and Symond's Yat two hills--the Great and Little Dowards--occur. Upon the top of the latter is a fine British camp, reputed to have once been occupied by Caractacus.

~Whitchurch~ is a pretty little village possessing an Early English church dedicated to St. Dubricius, Archbishop of Caerleon in the sixth century. The remains of a stone cross have been restored. After leaving Whitchurch, the roads become somewhat confusing, and care should be taken at the turns. At the foot of the bridge carrying the main road over the river stands Flanesford Priory, which was erected in 1347. From Kerne Bridge a magnificent prospect of the Wye is obtained.

~Goodrich Castle~ was an early residence of the Earls of Shrewsbury (the Talbots) and there is little doubt that the ruins now seen upon these rocky heights are all that is left of one of the first castles built in England, dating well back into the Saxon period. The keep was built in the time of Stephen, and it will be noticed that no windows look away from the castle. In the Civil War it was taken by the Parliamentarians, with the inevitable result. It is a noble and imposing ruin, and a journey up the Wye Valley should not omit a visit to Goodrich Castle.

~Goodrich Court~ lies half a mile north of the castle. It was built in the early part of the last century by Sir Samuel Meyrick, the well-known authority upon, and collector of, ancient arms and armour, and also the author of valuable works upon the same subject. The fine collection was sold some time since, and the house purchased in 1870 by Mr. George Moffatt.

~Goodrich Church~ stands in the little village of that name near the Court, and should be visited, as the stained-glass windows are good. The ancestors of Dean Swift resided in the parish, and one of them was the Vicar and a notable Royalist.

The main road to Ross now leaves the Wye, but in order to see Wilton Castle, that passing near the river should be taken.

~Wilton Castle~ was built soon after the Norman Conquest. It stands near the river upon ground which is not elevated, and was erected to protect the Welsh marches. It has been held by various families--the Longchamps, the De Greys, and that of Chandos. It suffered from the Parliamentary army in 1645. The remains consist of the outer walls only. A footpath will be found running between the walls and the river.

Wilton Bridge is a well-known landmark near Ross. It was built in the reign of Elizabeth, and consists of six arches. One of them--that near Wilton--is more recent than the others, having been rebuilt since its destruction by the Roundheads during the Civil War.

ROSS,

a picturesque little town with the steepest of streets, is perched upon uneven rocky ground high above the left bank of the Wye, and is surrounded by hills on three sides. It was a town at the time of Domesday.

~The Market Hall~ stands prominently in the centre of the town, and its quaintness adds much to the attractiveness of the place. It was built in the time of Charles II., and the upper part is now used for the County Court and Petty Sessions. On the exterior of the south wall one notices a curious carving of the letters F and C, with a heart, reputed to be 'faithful to Charles in heart.' The 'Man of Ross,' who was famed for his good deeds, and is alluded to by Pope, lived opposite the Market Hall. The lower part of the house is now a stationer's shop. The good man's name was John Kyrle, and his portrait, by Sir Godfrey Kneller, can be seen in the upper room of the Market Hall, together with his will and an autograph letter, dated 1695.

~The Church~ stands on higher ground than the rest of the town, on the south-west side. It is chiefly Early English, and has a nave with aisles, chancel, and three chapels. One of the chapels on the south side has a parvise over it. Probably the feature which the average visitor finds most interesting is the presence of two elm-trees growing out of the wall inside the church. Both saplings are now dead, but some creepers running over them afford sufficient foliage to simulate vitality.

There is an Easter sepulchre in the chancel, and a tablet opposite the organ contains sage reflections upon man's life and destiny. Of the monuments remaining in the church, one, dated 1637, of a knight and lady, is probably one of the most perfect memorials of contemporary costume to be found in any church. The 'Man of Ross,' who follows the visitor wherever he goes in this town, lies interred under a flat slab, and against the wall is preserved a splendid marble monument to his memory, erected in 1766 by a relative. A door leading to the vanished rood-loft is on the north side of the chancel arch. The loft apparently contained a piscina similar to Eastbourne Old Church.

~Of Ross Castle~ but little remains at the present time to give an idea of its former importance and extent. A tower, which may be entered, stands near the church, and in the High Street another portion is seen. From the first-mentioned there is a beautiful view, including Symond's Yat, the Great and Little Dowards, with a fine range of hills upon the horizon, and a splendid loop of the Wye lying at one's feet, with Wilton Castle and the bridge in the foreground. Ross is in many ways a capital centre for exploring the Wye Valley.

* * * * *

The road between Ross and Gloucester for about half the distance lies in a picturesque piece of country on the northern confines of the Forest of Dean, chiefly covered with coppices, grown for the sale of the bark, the manufacture of charcoal, and the distillation of wood-spirit. It is one of the wildest portions of Gloucestershire.

~Weston-under-Penyard~ is a small village near the ruins of ~Penyard Castle~ and the conspicuous hill of that name. The church was restored in 1870, and is not of great interest. Near this village is the site of the ancient _Ariconium_. The rise to Lea affords a view of considerable interest backwards, extending as far as Graig Serrerthin in Monmouthshire.

~Lea Church~ stands beside the road, and possesses a remarkable font of Indian workmanship inlaid with mosaic. The base represents an elephant, from which springs a twisted, snake-like column supporting the basin. Nearly two miles to the south of the road lies the village of Mitcheldean. The Early English spire of the church is occasionally seen through the trees, as it stands upon high ground.

A number of sharp turns now occur, and the rise to Dursley Cross is a steady one. The road is good, and a splendid view may be obtained from the summit, which is 500 feet above sea-level. A long descent eventually leads to Huntley, lying upon the lowlands which surround Gloucester. After crossing the Severn, the ruins of ~Llanthony Abbey~ can be seen to the south. The whole of this comparatively level country is of the most beautiful description, covered with English homesteads nestling among orchards, which are quite exquisite in spring-time.

[Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 9--GLOUCESTER.]

GLOUCESTER

~Gloucester~, the _Glevum_ of the Romans and the _Glow Ceaster_ of the Saxons, lies in the centre of a broad valley, and possesses a history of no mean order. The Saxon kings made the place their residence, and in 681 founded a nunnery, which subsequently became a monastery and the nucleus of the present cathedral. Parliaments have been summoned in this city, and its connection with the Empress Matilda in the time of Stephen is well known. In the Civil War, Gloucester was on the side of the Parliament, and resisted a Royalist army in 1643--a regrettable fact, to which must be attributed the demolition of the city walls at the Restoration.

~The Cathedral~ has dignified surroundings, and velvety turf runs up to the weather-stained masonry. The most prominent architecture to arrest the eye is the Perpendicular, of which, from the exterior, the cathedral appears mainly to consist, although Norman, Early English, and Decorated are all represented. The Perpendicular south porch is richly decorated, and possesses a parvise. Upon entering, the enormous Norman columns of the nave, standing closely together and towering upwards, at once fix the attention. The semicircular arches upon them appear small when compared with other cathedrals, while the triforium and clerestory are dwarfed and rendered comparatively unimportant. The zigzag and chevron work in the bays is of excellent character. The choir is pure Perpendicular and probably unsurpassed, and the glass in the large window is old and a grand example of medieval work. The bold and original idea of ornamenting comparatively plain Norman work with the delicate beauty of the Perpendicular has been carried out to the fullest perfection. The vaulting of the roof should be especially noted. The monument on the north of the choir, of Osric, King of Mercia, 729, was probably made about 1520. Next to it is the splendid monument of the unhappy Edward II., whose wasted career was terminated at Berkeley Castle, where he was murdered in 1377. Above the altar-tomb is a beautifully sculptured effigy of the King in alabaster, resting under a gorgeously elaborate canopy. It is interesting to remember that this tomb--one of the finest of the royal monuments in England--was put up to a vain and worthless King by his son and successor, whose reign helped to make the country prosperous, while the man whose memory is perpetuated in richly carved alabaster allowed his father (Edward I.), a great and courageous King, to rest under the five plain slabs of marble to be seen in Westminster Abbey. The recumbent effigy of Abbot Parker, last Abbot of Gloucester, should be noticed. The chantry, however, is a cenotaph.

~The North and South Transepts~ are Norman, enriched with Perpendicular work. From these points the flying arches, added to relieve the strain on the piers supporting the central tower arches, are features of grace and beauty. The north and south choir aisles each possess a side-chapel, in one of which Robert, Duke of Normandy, lies. He died in 1134 in Cardiff Castle, after an imprisonment of twenty-six years. ~The Lady Chapel~ is of magnificent Perpendicular work. There are chapels also leading from the choir triforium, superimposed upon those below. ~The Crypt~ is Early Norman work. ~The Cloisters~ are the finest in England, the roof being vaulted with fan-tracery, said to be the earliest example. In the north walk of the cloisters is the lavatory, with a long trough at which the monks washed, still in a perfect state, while in the wall opposite is a place for the towels. In the south walk are twenty recesses where the monks studied or wrote. The whole of the windows in these cloisters are filled with stained glass. ~The Chapter-house~ is of plain Norman work, with the exception of one small portion. By its side is the abbot's cloister, over which is the chapter library, containing some manuscripts of great value.

[Map: PLAN OF GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL.

_Monuments._

1. Dr. Jenner.
2. Alderman Jones.
3. Abbot Seabroke.
4. Brydges.
5. Sarah Morley (by Flaxman).
6. Alderman Machen.
7. Bower.
8. Alderman Blackleech.
9. Abbot Foliot.
10. Osric.
11. Edward II.
12. Bishop Parker.
13. Courtehouse.
14. Bishop Godfrey.
15. Thomas Fitzwilliams.

_Parts of Building._

A. West door.
B. South porch.
C. Monks' door to Cloisters.
D. Abbot's door to Cloisters.
E. Reliquary.
F. Chapel.
G. Doorway to Crypt.
H. Chapel of St. Andrew.
I. Sedilia.
K. Chapel of Duke of Normandy.
L. Abbot Hanley's Chantry.
M. Abbot Farley's Chantry.
N. Chapel.
O. Lavatory.
P. Passage to Cloisters.
Q. Slype and Sacristy.]

The cathedral has a number of interesting ruins on the northern side. These include the remains of a Dominican monastery, founded in the ninth century and rebuilt in 1115, of which some arches and pillars remain. There are other buildings partially adapted for modern purposes.

Gloucester also possesses some churches of considerable interest, such as ~St. Mary de Lode~, said to be the oldest in the city, with the Norman chancel and tower of the original building. In the churchyard stands a monument to Bishop Hooper, burnt alive on the spot in 1555. ~St. Mary de Crypt~ is of Early English workmanship, and derives its name from two large crypts beneath it. It stands in Southgate Street, and has a beautiful and lofty tower. ~St. Michael the Cross~ was rebuilt in 1815, but incorporates original Decorated work. It is said to have a connection with the ancient Abbey of St. Peter. The curfew bell is still rung from the tower every evening. ~St. Nicholas~, in Westgate Street, also contains Norman and Early English work.

One of the greatest charms of Gloucester lies in the multiplicity of houses to be found which range in date from the fourteenth to the seventeenth century, and a ramble through the streets will disclose many besides those seen with a hurried glance. The New Inn, for example, despite its unpromising name, possesses a courtyard with surrounding gallery eminently medieval in every respect, and the feeling is not lessened by a descent into the adjoining vaults. It was built in 1450 by John Twining, a monk, for the accommodation of pilgrims to the shrine of Edward II. It may be of interest to note that the wood employed is chestnut. A fine old timbered house stands in Northgate Street, but has been refronted. A passage, however, affords a view at the side. There are many other examples of old domestic architecture to be found at the junctions of the four principal streets in the centre of the town, where, it may be mentioned, the Town Hall stands upon the site of the ancient Courts of Justice.

* * * * *

In selecting a motoring centre in this part of England, the writer has found Gloucester to be a very suitable one in every way. The Bell and County Hotel has a large garage, and combines in a very exceptional manner the charm of the old-fashioned English hostelry with the needs of the present day. Apart from the long routes described in these pages, there are many short runs from Gloucester to pretty villages in the Cotswolds and to historic spots, such as Berkeley Castle, Llanthony Abbey, Deerhurst Priory, and a dozen other places, which a local handbook will point out. Nearly all the important places in the neighbourhood are described in this book.

LOOP No. 6

=FIRST PORTION=: HEREFORD TO SHREWSBURY--=SECOND PORTION=: SHREWSBURY TO WORCESTER, LEDBURY, AND HEREFORD

HEREFORD TO SHREWSBURY, 54¾ MILES

DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

Miles.
=Hereford= to Moreton-on-Lug 4
=Moreton-on-Lug= to Bodenham Moor 3¾
=Bodenham Moor= to Leominster 7
=Leominster= to Wooferton 7¼
=Wooferton= to Ludlow 4
=Ludlow= to Craven Arms 7¾
=Craven Arms= to Church Stretton 7¾
=Church Stretton= to Dorrington 6½
=Dorrington= to Shrewsbury 6¾

NOTES FOR DRIVERS

To =Shrewsbury= a first-class road; a hill of 1 in 12 at =Ludlow= and 1 in 15 at =Bodenham Hill=.

PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Sutton Walls.=--Remains of Offa's castle.

=Bodenham.=--A village with a large and handsome church.

=Hampton Court.=--A house dating from the time of Henry IV.

=Leominster.=--A very picturesque town; the Town Hall; the church, with the nave of a former Priory; the Butter Cross.

=Ludlow.=--An old and very interesting town; the church, one of the finest in England; the Guildhall; an excellent museum; Richard's Castle near the town.

=Stokesay Castle.=--One of the most perfect fortified houses of the thirteenth century in the kingdom; strikingly picturesque.

=Craven Arms.=--The camp of Caer Caradoc; the Long Mynd district; extremely picturesque hills of exceptional interest to geologists.

=Church Stretton.=--A pretty village in charming surroundings of wooded hills and valleys; Norman and Transitional cruciform church.

[Map: LOOP 6 (FIRST PORTION). HEREFORD TO CHURCH STRETTON.
_Continued on p. 230._]

(_For description and plan of_ ~Hereford~, _see pp. 176-179_.)

The road to Leominster passes due north out of Hereford by, or rather through, the racecourse, and directly afterwards ~Holmer Church~ is seen upon the left side of the road. It belongs to Early English times, and has a detached tower.

~Moreton-on-Lug~ has a church which has recently been restored, but it contains some altar-tombs of the Dauncer family. From this point onwards Robin Hood's Butts and the Sugar Loaf Hills become prominent objects in the landscape on the left, their rugged summits of sandstone resisting the action of the weather better than the soft marls through which they protrude.

~Sutton Walls~ lie to the right upon a wooded hill, and are of great historical interest. Offa, king of Mercia, had a palace there, and to it Ethelbert, king of the East Angles, was invited, the ostensible object being his marriage to the daughter of the Mercian king. The young prince was foully murdered by the connivance of Quendrida, Offa's queen, and East Anglia annexed to Mercia in A.D. 782. In expiation of this deed Offa founded the great monastery at St. Albans. There is a large encampment upon the hill, with four entrances, apparently of Roman origin, and containing an area of about thirty acres.

Entering a low-lying district, upon which stands Wellington Marsh, ~Marden Church~ is seen upon the right, the place of Ethelbert's first interment, the original building having been erected by Offa. ~Wellington Church~, lying to the left of the road, is chiefly of modern construction. Two miles farther on a bifurcation occurs, and the road to the right may be taken if one wishes to avoid the rather steep way leading over Dinmore Hill. ~Bodenham~ is the next village on the route. It possesses a large church of the Early English and Decorated Periods, containing an alabaster tomb of Sir Walter Devereux, 1401. In the village will be seen the remains of a large cross and a well. A sharp turn to the left at England's Gate leads back in a few miles to the junction with the main road near ~Hope-under-Dinmore~, crossing the River Lug just before the junction. Hope Church, standing on the hill-side, contains many tablets to the Coningsby family. About two miles to the right of Ford lies Risbury Camp, of an oval form, with deep ditches surrounding it, and containing an area of about eight acres. ~Hampton Court~ was built by Sir Roland Lenthall in the time of Henry IV., and much enlarged by ransoms subsequently obtained from prisoners at the Battle of Agincourt. It was once the home of the Earl of Coningsby. Mr. J. H. Arkwright, a descendant of Richard Arkwright, is now the owner. The Court has been partially rebuilt.

LEOMINSTER

This town presents an exceedingly picturesque aspect, a number of medieval or Renaissance buildings having survived. It was a place of importance in the days of the Heptarchy, and a monastery was instituted by Merewald, king of the West Mercians, in the seventh century, which, however, disappeared subsequently in the Danish invasions. A residence of the Saxon kings, together with a stronghold, was also raised here, only to be destroyed in a Welsh raid in 1088. In 1125 Henry I. established a Benedictine cell under the rule of Reading Priory, and the buildings now form part of the workhouse!

~The Church~ includes examples of almost every style of architecture. The nave is Norman, and originally formed part of the Priory Church standing upon this site. The monuments are very numerous, and some of the finest window tracery in any ecclesiastical building in the British Isles exists here. A fire in the eastern parts of the church in 1699 led to a restoration in a very debased style. The Butter Cross is an object of interest, and in the Bargates are Georgian almshouses dating back to 1736. They have an effigy with an inscription containing an admonition against the exercise of charity without discrimination. The road to Ludlow lies upon the eastern side of the railway, and a sharp turn to the right occurs in the town. ~Ivington Camp~ is a British earthwork, but was considerably strengthened by Owen Glendower when he retreated from Leominster and was vigorously pursued by Prince Henry. One mile to the right lies Eaton Hall, now a farmhouse. It was erected in the time of Henry V., and was once occupied by the old family of Hakluyt.[1]

~Eye~ lies to the left of the road, and has a church with some fine alabaster monuments in it--one figure with the collar of SS. Berrington Hall and Park, the seat of Lord Rodney, are close by. The country passed through for some miles past is a cider district, and numerous orchards can be seen on every side. Near Woofferton is a fine open stretch of country, in which the highlands upon the left, wooded to their summits, form a welcome break. ~Richard's Castle~, of the motte and bailey type, lies under the hills. It was erected in the reign of Edward the Confessor, and stands upon a mound 60 feet in height, with some peculiar earthworks adjoining. It is a matter for remark that this stronghold was erected and occupied by a Norman, Richard, the son of Scrop, _before_ the Conquest, and thus is one of a little group of castles of peculiar interest. An old church at the town of Richard's Castle has a detached belfry.

LUDLOW

This is an ancient British town lying in an amphitheatre of high ground, but no reliable history relating to the place is extant until after the Conquest, when Roger de Montgomery founded the ~Castle~, which for a considerable time was the residence of Royalty, more particularly of Edward IV. and his children. Ludlow was also the seat of the Grand Council entrusted with the jurisdiction of the Marches. The keep of the castle was erected between 1086 and 1096. In the Civil War the castle surrendered to the Parliamentary forces in 1646, at the same time as Bridgnorth. The appearance of the dismantled fortress on an eminence above the River Teme is imposing and impressive, as the Norman towers and bastions, together with a considerable portion of the curtain walls, are still standing.

~The Church~ stands upon elevated ground near the castle, and is of Decorated Gothic, dating from the time of Edward III., although originally built in the twelfth century. It is dedicated to St. Lawrence, and is a cruciform building with a lofty tower, and one of the finest churches in England. There is also a guildhall, a town-hall, and the museum, chiefly confined to natural history, has a grand collection of Silurian fossils. A very fine timbered house, the Lane Asylum, dates from 1672.

From the district round Bromfield a fine view is obtained of Clee Hill lying to the right, with Titterstone Camp, 1,749 feet above the sea, on it. Farther to the north is Brown Clee Hill, 1,792 feet high, with Corne Dale to the left. Near Onibury the route is well wooded, and the valley becomes contracted as the road leads through a break in Wenlock Edge. Upon the right Norton Camp, a horseshoe-shaped entrenchment, occupies the summit of a knoll.

STOKESAY CASTLE

is reached just before coming to Craven Arms Station. It is, without exaggeration, one of the most picturesque and also one of the earliest fortified houses in the kingdom. From almost any point of view it thrills the artist, the architect, the archæologist, and the ordinary visitor who has any capacity to read sermons in stones. The very name 'Stokesay' tells the story of Norman owner superseding Saxon, the Says or Sayes being descendants of Picot de Sai, who came over with the Conqueror, a similar instance being found in Stoke d'Abernon in Surrey, where the Saxon 'Stoke' is again tacked on to the name of the new Norman owner. The gatehouse of the castle, although a highly picturesque timber-framed building of Elizabethan times, with a carving of Adam and Eve and the Serpent over the door, is not the most interesting feature, for the rest of the building belongs to the thirteenth century, and is quite one of the best examples of a fortified house of the Early English period. The moat is now dry, but otherwise one can see in Stokesay the type of house close to the Welsh Marches which was occupied by a lesser feudal lord in the days when Wales was still the home of unconquered tribesmen, who might at any time make a sudden descent into English territory. Facing the gateway is the hall, 51 feet by 31 feet (internal measurements), lighted with four tall lancet windows looking on to the moat on the west side. The open timber roof is blackened with smoke, for there was no fireplace, and the smoke from the central brazier escaped through an outlet in the roof. The builder of this hall is given by the late Mr. Augustus Hare as John de Verdun, who died in 1279, while the curious and picturesque polygonal tower at the south corner was no doubt built by Verdun's successor, that Lawrence de Ludlow who received permission from Edward I. to fortify his house of Stokesay. It would be a pleasant task to describe every room and every architectural detail of this fascinating castle, but space unfortunately does not permit.

~The Church~ at Stokesay was rebuilt after the Civil War. Beautiful views of the Long Mynd, of Wenlock Edge, and the ridge lying between them, now open up. The church at the little village of ~Wistanstow~ has been restored, and during the alterations a carved oak roof of the Perpendicular period came to light.

CHURCH STRETTON

is a village in an exceedingly pleasant situation, with the Long Mynd ridge of hills to the west, and with Hope Bowdler, Caer Caradoc, and the Lawley nearly opposite. The name Stretton, like Streatham, indicates the presence of a Roman road--one of those leading southwards from the great Roman city of _Uriconium_.

The interesting cruciform church has a Norman nave with Transitional central tower and transepts. Several Perpendicular windows have been inserted. Mr. Hare mentions a stone in the churchyard, near the sundial, bearing this inscription to Ann Cook, who died in 1814:

'On a Thursday she was born,
On a Thursday made a bride,
On a Thursday broke her leg,
And on a Thursday died.'

'Hesba Stretton,' the novelist, took her pen-name from this village, where she lived for many years.

Near Church Stretton the site of Brockhurst Castle is passed over. Bodbury Ring, to the left beyond Church Stretton, is said to have been occupied by Ostorius Scapula previous to his great battle with Caractacus. The site of the engagement is on the right, and a mile farther on the road leads under Caer Caradoc Hill, 1,506 feet high, with a perfect camp, vallum, and ditches upon the summit, wherein Caradoc entrenched himself previous to the fight. The district under the Long Mynd is extremely picturesque, with deep gullies and cross valleys running into the great ridge, whose elevation in places reaches to 1,600 feet. It is a paradise for geologists, deposits emerging from underneath the Silurian which are of more than ordinary interest. The Caradoc Range is an old volcanic outburst. The line of the Roman road traversing the valley already mentioned may be noted running parallel with the railway.

(_For description and plan of ~Shrewsbury~, see pp. 76-79._)

FOOTNOTE:

[Footnote 1: A Welsh family, of whom Richard Hakluyt (1552?-1616), the famous geographer, is the best known.]

LOOP No. 6--SECOND PORTION

SHREWSBURY TO HEREFORD, 81¼ MILES

DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE

Miles.
=Shrewsbury= to Buildwas 11¾
=Buildwas= to Ironbridge 2
=Ironbridge= to Bridgnorth 7¾
=Bridgnorth= to Birdsgreen 7
=Birdsgreen= to Kidderminster 7¼
=Kidderminster= to Worcester 14½
=Worcester= to Malvern 8¼
=Malvern= to Ledbury 8
=Ledbury= to Hereford 14¾

NOTES FOR DRIVERS

=Shrewsbury to Worcester.=--A few hills only to Bridgnorth; thence to Kidderminster some steep hills, but otherwise an excellent road. One of the hills is 1 in 12 after Shatterford; after that good.

=Worcester to Hereford.=--To Malvern splendid; between Malvern and Ledbury ascent 1 in 9, descent 1 in 11 in crossing the Malvern Hills, then very good road to Hereford, with only trifling hills.

PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

=Buildwas Abbey.=--A beautiful ruin.

=Bridgnorth.=--A picturesque town, with a church and the remains of a castle; the bridge.

=Kidderminster.=--A town famed for its manufacture of carpets; church, Perpendicular.

=Stourport.=--An uninteresting town.

=Ombersley.=--A picturesque village; The Court, the residence of Lord Sandys.

=Worcester.=--A busy city; the cathedral and tomb of King John; the Edgar Tower; the Guildhall; the famous porcelain works.

=Great Malvern.=--A finely-situated watering-place; the abbey gateway; a Norman church, originally a priory church.

=Ledbury.=--Picturesque market town, with old market hall and several quaint houses; church, Norman, Early English, and Perpendicular; tower detached.

=Hereford.=--(See p. 176.)

[Map: LOOP 6. (NORTHERN PART INCLUDING SHREWSBURY).
_Continued on p. 239._]

The route from Shrewsbury follows that to _Uriconium_ for nearly a mile, when a bifurcation occurs, and the road to the right is chosen, passing through Sutton and Cound. The church at the latter place is chiefly of Early English architecture; it contains a carved early Norman font of great interest. The Wrekin, with Heaven's Gate Camp upon it, is a prominent feature in the distance, while the Severn indulges in sinuous windings by the side of the road. ~Buildwas Abbey~ is quite close to the road; it presents a beautiful aspect, and is one of the finest ruins in the county. The abbey was founded by Roger de Clinton, Bishop of Chester, in 1135, for Cistercians. Parts of it still remain roofed. Coalbrookdale is historically interesting as the cradle of the iron trade. It sprang into prominence when the Sussex ironfields had to be abandoned, owing to the shrinkage of the forests there. In 1700 members of the Darby family experimented upon iron ore smelted with coal and coke, and since then it has been a centre of the iron industry.

~Ironbridge~ contains nothing of any particular interest. It is a town of foundries, forges, and furnaces, while hideous tiers of dirty cottages cluster on the steep hill-side. In the town is the iron bridge from which the place gains its name; it is a bridge of a single span, stretching 120 feet, and is the first on record. Its presence is due to the energy of Abraham Darby, of the Coalbrookdale Works, in 1779. From Ironbridge the road trends away from the Severn, passing through a well-wooded country, and eventually reaches

BRIDGNORTH

This picturesque town is reputed to have been founded by a daughter of Alfred the Great, and was fortified with walls and a castle by Robert de Belesme, Earl of Shrewsbury. Henry I. besieged it in 1102, and in the time of Henry II. it was dismantled. The walls suffered the same fate at the hands of the Parliamentary forces after a long siege in 1646. The upper town is built upon a steep rocky plateau, which rises abruptly from the river, crowned by the remains of the old castle, which deviate remarkably from the vertical. A bridge of fine design joins the upper to the lower town.

~At Quatford~ a fortress was built by Ethelfleda, and subsequently a college by the wife of Roger de Montgomery, from a romantic remembrance of having first met her husband upon that spot. Slight indications of a keep still remain upon a rock overlooking the Severn. The church has the chancel arch and font of the Norman period, and the remainder is Decorated work of the fourteenth century.

The Forest of Morfe at one time covered the whole of this district. Dudmaston Castle is passed immediately before Quatt is reached, and then an undulating run eventually leads to

KIDDERMINSTER

The name of the town means the 'minster on the brow of the hill.' From the time of William the Conqueror down to _c._ 1135 it was a manor in possession of the Crown.

~The Church.~--This is dedicated to St. Mary, and is chiefly of the Perpendicular period. It contains a number of ancient monuments, and has recently undergone a restoration. The town is celebrated for its manufacture of carpets; a peculiar property of the River Stour is reputed to add to the brilliancy of the colouring. Dyeing, worsted-spinning, together with iron manufactures, are carried on in the town.

On leaving Kidderminster the road lies almost due south to ~Stourport~, a rather uninteresting town, possessing, however, an iron bridge over the Severn. The church is of modern construction.

~Ombersley~ is a village of uncommonly neat appearance, with many timbered houses effectively rendered in black and white. The Court was erected in the time of Queen Anne, and is the country residence of Lord Sandys. The church in the village is new.

[Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 8--WORCESTER.]

WORCESTER

is sheltered by the Malvern Hills on the south-west, and by other picturesque eminences. A Roman road originally traversed the city, and as early as the year 680 Worcester was surrounded by lofty walls and fortifications, which, by existing records, appear to have compared favourably with other towns.

~The Cathedral.~--(_Open on weekdays 9.30 to 6, but closed at 5.30 between October and March 31 [or dusk]. 6d. each charged for entering the Choir, Lady Chapel, and other special portions._) When Mercia became an independent kingdom a church was raised, and subsequently another built by Oswald in the tenth century a little north-east of the present building. Wulfstan found Oswald's church in ruins, the handiwork of Hardicanute's soldiers. He began a new cathedral in 1084, but two fires subsequently ruined it. Re-erected, it was reconsecrated in 1218. The cathedral suffered but little at the Reformation, but very much during the Civil War. It is not a grand building so far as massiveness is concerned, but possesses a variety of styles which harmonize in a remarkable degree, and a sense of unity pervades the whole building. The tower is a beautiful specimen of Perpendicular work, and has recently been thoroughly renovated. The chief objects of interest in the interior are the stalls, with their miserere seats, dating from 1397, formerly in Worcester Priory; the cloisters, chapterhouse, and remarkable Norman crypt, with King John's tomb in the choir. There are picturesque remains of the old Guesten Hall, the refectory and dormitory.

~The Edgar Tower~ stands near the entrance to the cathedral cloisters. It was originally the entrance to Worcester Castle, but the monks converted it into a monastery gateway.

~The Guildhall~ dates from 1721, and is an impressive building, containing some objects of interest from the battlefield of Worcester.

~The Commandery.~--This is a hospital founded in 1085; the great refectory and Guesten Hall, with beautiful roofs and stained glass, should be seen.