Chapter XXXVII: The Wicked Rose Bugs

“‘ZEALOUS care brings big reward in growing,’ our professor told us.”

Billy was perched in the fork of an apple tree. The two girls and his mother were sitting on the grass which made a thick carpet beneath its branches.

“He used to say it over so often that the fellows nicknamed him ‘Rosy,’” Billy went on.

“Oh!” exclaimed Mary Frances, “wasn’t that awful!” but she and Eleanor giggled, and even her mother smiled.

“You didn’t call him that, though?” said Eleanor.

“Not when he could hear me,” laughed Billy. “But if I’m going to give you this lesson we must make a start. The subject, by the way, is—

HOW TO PLANT ROSES

Before you can make a list of the roses you wish to
order, you must understand something about the state in
which they will be when received, how far apart they
may be planted, and—

WHERE TO MAKE BEDS FOR ROSES

Roses like warmth and air. They love to drink, but they
do not like wet feet.

Knowing these things, you will select for your rose bed
an airy, sunny place on the south side of a building or
wall, if possible, where the ground is not so low that
it will hold moisture long.

Having decided what is the best place you can offer
your roses, you will want to know—

HOW TO MAKE BEDS FOR ROSES

1. Do not buy too many plants for the space. Do not
make the bed over five feet wide. If wider, you will
tread on the soil and make it heavy.

2. Remember, roses are usually planted twenty-one
inches apart. (Do not plant Wichuraiana or Rugosa roses
in the bed.)

Alternate the plants, as shown in the following diagram:

(1) (2) (3) This saves garden space, and gives
(5) (4) room for the roots.
(6) (7) (8)

3. To be beautiful, roses must have plenty of good
food. So _dig deep_; eighteen inches is a good depth.
Fill this space with a mixture of soil and well-rotted
stable manure. It is best not to let the roots of the
roses touch the manure. Sprinkle a little soil over
the manure before putting the plant into its place. If
the ground is very damp, dig deeper than two feet and
throw in a basket of stones, through which the water
will drain.

4. Roses are received from the dealer either growing in
pots, or dormant (dry), or with little balls of earth
around the roots wrapped in damp moss.

The young inexperienced gardener will do best with the
potted plants, but if the plants are dry and dormant
(dormant means _sleeping_), it is well to soak the
roots before planting. Never expose damp roots to the
air. Keep in water or damp earth until planted.

HOW DEEP TO PLANT ROSES

Unless grown in pots, spread out the roots and pack the
earth firmly about them, putting the plant deep enough
to bring earth three inches over the “bud” or graft.

THE BEST TIME TO PLANT ROSES

depends on where you live.

In general, Spring is the best time, but in the South
and on the Pacific coast, Autumn is best.

Some of the _hardiest_ sorts will grow well, when set
out in the Fall, even in places where the winters are
severe.

Now, the bushes are planted, and we will think about—

CARING FOR ROSES

The chief cares for roses are:

1. Cultivating, or stirring the soil.

2. Feeding.

3. Destroying insect enemies.

4. Pruning.

You already understand the importance of cultivating
and the importance of feeding the plants.

FERTILIZERS

Two of the best foods for roses and easiest to use, are
bone dust and dried sheep manure, which you can buy
at the seed store. These you may dig into the soil as
you cultivate, being sure not to let the fertilizers
directly touch the roots.

ENEMIES OF ROSES

1. Rose Bugs.

2. Aphids.

3. Rusts and Mildews.

4. Borers and other chewing insects.

There are several different kinds of beetles, called
rose bugs, which come up out of the ground where they
have spent the winter, just at the time of the most
abundant and beautiful blooming.

In the Middle Atlantic States they stay in a place
about two weeks.

The best way to rid a plant of these enemies of roses
which “eat them alive,” is to hand-pick them, throwing
them into a can of kerosene.

There is a patent preparation which is good. Write your
dealer for information as to this.

Treat for other insects as you have already learned.

If your parents think you may be trusted to handle
a poison, spray in the early Spring with “Bordeaux
Arsenate of Lead” to prevent mildew and rust. In
summer, use Flowers of Sulphur.

Now, as to—

PRUNING ROSES

Prune rose bushes in the early Spring, just when the
plants _begin_ to show green, which means that their
sap is beginning to flow. Use pruning for cutting the
stems back.

Remember these principal rules:

1. Hybrid Perpetual Roses should be cut back about two
feet from the ground.

2. Cut back Hybrid Tea Roses more sparingly, that is,
farther from the ground than Hybrid Perpetuals.

3. Cut back Tea Roses only a short distance.

4. Cut only the dead wood from the other kinds.

Pruning cuts off the ends of the branches and causes
the plant to throw out strong joints from the eyes
along the canes, which will bear flowers.

“My,” exclaimed Mary Frances, as Billy closed his book suddenly and jumped to the ground. “Is that all about roses?”

“No, dear,” answered her mother. “No, that is just a ‘first beginning,’ as you used to say when you were little.”

“Speaking of insect enemies, I see the wicked rose bugs have eaten into the hearts of the most beautiful roses we own,” went on her mother.

“Come,” cried Mary Frances, “let’s go see if we can find them—and drown them in kerosene.”

“Oh, but I’m afraid of them!” shuddered Eleanor.

Mary Frances laughed. “They won’t hurt you!” she said, running ahead. “I bet I can catch the first hundred!”