Chapter II: Part 2

_Band of insertion for the Wrist_.--19 c s, unite d c round this ring eighteen times, which will cover about three-quarters of the ring. Turn the work wrong side up. 6 c s, miss 2, s c into third stitch; repeat this five times more. Turn 1 d c, 5 l s, 1 d c, into every space formed by 6 c s, d c round the remaining part of the ring six times; fasten off, leaving one end about three inches long. Turn on the wrong side. Begin on the third stitch of third scallop of last flower. 12 c s, s c into fifth stitch of next scallop, forming a loop over the two centre scallops. Turn. D c round this loop eighteen times. Turn. * 6 c s, miss 2, s c into third stitch; repeat from * five times more. Turn. 1 d c, 5 l s, 1 d c into every space formed by 6 c s; fasten off, leaving one end as in last flower. Work fifteen of these flowers, thread a fine needle with the ends left, and make a few stitches on the wrong side to secure them. The band between the two puffings is to be worked exactly the same; but there must be eighteen flowers instead of fifteen. Commence the fulness on the band for the wrist on the first scallop, at the edge, 5 c s (working in the end of the thread), s c into the centre of next scallop, * 6 c s, s c into the first scallop of next flower. 5 c s, s c into next scallop; repeat from * to the end of the band.

_2d row_. Commence on the first loop of 5 c s in last row, * 8 c s, d c round the next loop, 8 c s, d c round the same loop; repeat from * to the end of the row.--_3d row_. Commence on first loop of 8 c s in last row, 9 c s, d c into next loop, 9 c s, d c into next loop; repeat to the end of the row.--_4th row_. Commence on the same loop of 8 c s, as the last row was begun on 10 c s, d c round the centre of first loop in last row, * 9 c s, d c round the next loop; repeat from * to the end of the row. After the d c stitch round the last loop in this row, make 5 c s, and draw the end of the cotton through. _These 5 c s must be worked at the end of every alternate row, in order to keep the ends of the fulness even_. Work four more rows like the two last, making in all six rows, then seven rows, having 10 c s in each loop, every alternate row of which is begun in the same loop as the preceding row, having 12 c s in the first loop. Then work six more rows like the former six, having 9 c s in each loop. This will make nineteen rows of loops: fasten off. Work a fulness on the upper band of insertion in exactly the same manner, and gather it in at the top next the sleeve in this way: commence on the first loop 2 c s, take the next loop on the needle, and d c round it once, 2 c s, * d c round next loop once, 2 c s; repeat from * to end of row. In the next row, work 1 l s into every stitch of last row.

To unite the fulness on the wristband to the upper band of insertion, turn them both on the wrong side, and hold them as if they were to be sewn together, the insertion being at the back. Take the first loop, and the centre stitch of the first scallop, on the needle, and work 1 s c to unite them, 3 c s, s c the next loop and centre stitch of the next scallop, o 4 c s, s c the next loop and centre of first scallop in next flounce together, 3 c s, s c next loop and next scallop, o * 4 c s, s c next loop and next scallop, 2 c s; take the next loop on the needle _without_ the scallop, and s c once round it, 2 c s, s c the next loop and next scallop together; repeat from * to end of row, except on the two last flowers, which must be worked as from o to o.

_For the Edging on the Wristband_.--Commence on the first scallop of the insertion, * 5 c s, s c into next scallop, 6 c s, s c into next scallop; repeat from * to end of row.

_2d row_. 10 c s, 1 l s, into first loop of last row, * 3 c s, 1 l s into same loop, 3 c s, 1 l s into next loop; repeat from * to end of row.--

_3d row_. 7 c s, d c round every loop of last row.--

_4th row_. 4 c s, 1 l s into every loop of last row.--

_5th row_. Begin on the first loop of third row, 6 c s, 5 l s into first loop of last row, 4 c s, d c into next loop, * 4 c s, 5 l s into next loop, 4 c s, d c into next loop; repeat from *.--

_6th row_. 4 d c stitches round first loop of 6 c s in last row, 8 c s, * miss the 5 l s, d c four times round the next loop of 4 c s, 4 d c round the next loop, 8 c s; repeat from *.--

_7th row_. Begin on first loop of 8 in last row, 7 c s, s c _between_ the two loops of 4 d c each, * 7 c s, s c round the centre of 8 c s in last row, 10 c s, d c round the same loop, 7 c s, s c between the two loops of 4 d c; repeat from * to end of row. This finishes the edging.

D c round the ends of the puffings, taking in the ends left on finishing the rows. Make a chain of 15 stitches at the ends of the two bands of insertions, and s c into the edge for a small loop. D c round these twenty-four times, and sew a small pearl button on the other ends of the bands. The insertion may have a narrow satin ribbon run through the open holes, finished by a small bow at the upper part of the sleeve.

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EMBROIDERY IN BRAID

36. SMOKING CAP.

_Materials--Claret-coloured velvet, gold braid, and a gold band and tassels_.

Six pieces of velvet, three nails in length, and the width given in diagram will be required, and these must be sloped to a point. Draw the designs upon the velvet with a white crayon, and sew on the braid; arrange the patterns in alternate order; neatly join the pieces of velvet, and edge each joining with braid; line with silk, and finish with band and tassels.

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CROCHET.

37. BABY'S CAP.

_Materials--Raworth's threads Nos. 90 and 100, and Penelope crochet No. 4_.

With No. 90 make a chain of 3 loops, join and work a round of double crochet.--

_2d round_. Open crochet all round.--

_3d round_. Double crochet all round.--

_4th round_. 3 chain, 1 long, missing 2 loops of preceding round; repeat.--

_5th round_. Double crochet all round.--

_6th and 7th rounds_. 3 chain, crochet; repeat.--

_8th round_. Double crochet all round.--

_9th round_. 3 chain, 2 long, missing 3 loops of preceding round; repeat.--

_10th round_. Double crochet all round.--

_11th and 12th rounds_. 3-chain crochet, increasing as required, to form the round for crown.--

_13th round_. Three 3-chain crochet, 5 long in centre loop of every fourth 3-chain crochet-stitch of preceding round; repeat.--

_14th round_. Three 3-chain, 5 chain over the 5 long of preceding round; repeat.--

_15th, 16th, 17th, and 18th rounds_. Like the 13th and 14th rounds.--

_19th round_. 3-chain crochet all round.--

_20th round_. 3-chain crochet-all round.--

_21st round_. Double crochet. This completes the crown of the cap; leave one-third to form the neck. The front of the cap must be worked throughout on one side, commencing at the right hand.

_Front.--1st round_. 3 chain, 2 long, missing 3 loop of preceding round; repeat.--

_2d round_. Double crochet.--

_3d round_. 3-chain crochet.--

_4th round_. Three 3-chain crochet, 5 long in centre loop of every fourth 3-chain crochet stitch of preceding row; repeat.--

_5th row_. Three 3-chain double crochet over the long stitches of preceding row; repeat.--

_6th row_. Three 3-chain crochet, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, missing 1 loop between each long over the double crochet of preceding row; repeat.--

_7th row_. Three 3-chain crochet, double crochet over the long stitches of preceding row; repeat.--

_8th row_. 3-chain crochet; repeat.

_9th, 10th, 11th,_ _12th, and 13th rows_, like the 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8th rows.--

_14th row_. 3-chain crochet.--

_15th row_. Double crochet, missing every alternate loop of preceding row.--

_16th row_. 2 chain, 2 long, missing 2 loops of preceding row; repeat.--

_17th row_. Double crochet.--

_18th row_. 3-chain crochet; repeat.--

_19th row_. 3-chain crochet; repeat.--

_20th row_. Three 3-chain crochet, five long in centre loop of every fourth 3-chain crochet-stitch; repeat.--

_21st row_. 3-chain crochet, 5 chain over the 5 long of preceding row.--

_22d row_. 3-chain crochet; repeat.--

_23d, 24th, 25th, and 26th rows_, like the 19th, 20th, 21st, and 22d rows.--

_27th row_. 3-chain crochet; repeat.--

_28th row_. Double crochet; repeat.--

_29th row_. 3 chain, 2 long, missing 3 loops of preceding row; repeat.--

_30th row_. Double crochet; repeat. Work the ends of the front and that part of the crown that was left to form the neck, in double crochet, rounding the crown part by missing every second loop; then work 2 chain, 2 long, missing 2 loops of preceding row; then a row of double crochet: this completes the cap. Draw with narrow satin ribbon, and trim with the following lace:--

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38. LACE FOR CAP.

This lace must be worked throughout on one side, commencing at the right-hand side of foundation. Make a chain the required length with thread No. 90; work 1 row in double crochet.--

_1st row_. Thread No. 100 double crochet.--

_2d row_. 1 chain, 1 long in every alternate loop of foundation; repeat.--

_3d row_. Double crochet.--

_4th row_. 3-chain crochet.--

_5th row_. Three 3-chain crochet, 5 long in centre loop of every fourth 3-chain crochet-stitch of preceding row; repeat.--

_6th row_. 3-chain crochet, 5 chain over the five long stitches of preceding row; repeat.--

_7th row_. 3-chain crochet.--

_8th row_. Five 3-chain crochet, 5 long in centre loop of every sixth 3-chain crochet-stitch of preceding row; repeat.--

_9th row_. Five 3-chain crochet, 5 chain over the 5 long stitches of preceding row; repeat.--

_10th row_. 3-chain crochet.--

_11th row_. 3-chain crochet.--

_12th row_. Three 3-chain crochet, 5 long in centre loop of every fourth 3-chain crochet-stitch of preceding row; repeat.--

_13th row_. Three 3-chain crochet, double crochet over the 5 long stitches of preceding row; repeat.--

_14th row_. Three 3-chain crochet, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, missing 2 loops between each long; repeat.--

_15th row_. Three 3-chain crochet, double crochet over the long stitches of preceding row; repeat.--

_16th row_. 5 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, 1 chain, 1 long, missing 2 loops between each long; repeat.--

_17th row_. Double crochet.--_18th row_. 5-chain crochet.

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EMBROIDERY

39. APRON.

_Materials--Black satin and four shades of crimson, two ditto of blue, three ditto of green, and white embroidery silk_.

Draw the design on the satin, and work in embroidery stitch the large flowers with the shades of crimson, commencing each petal with the second shade, then work with the third, and finish with the lightest. Commence the centre of the flower with the lightest, then work with the second shade, after which work the two upper divisions with the two next shades in regular order. Work the cup of the flower with the middle shade of green, and the piece beneath with the second shade of crimson. Work the stems with the lightest green, and the leaves with the other two shades. Work the centre part of the small flowers with the darkest crimson, the small petals which encircle this with the next shade of crimson; then work with the darkest blue, after which with the lightest, and finish the edge of the flower with white. Work the pockets and the band in a similar manner, and finish with cord and tassels.

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TAMBOUR

42. LIMERICK LACE SCARF.

_Materials--Brussels net, French working-cotton No. 120, Raworth's sewing-cotton No. 100, and a fine pearl edge_.

Work the outline of the pattern and the edge with French cotton in tambour-stitch, and fill in the spaces with the sewing-cotton in the same stitch, or, if preferred, in darning-stitch; work dots in the places indicated in the design, and, after washing the scarf, sew a pearl edge all round.

A description of head-dress, for which this scarf is intended, will be found in the London and Paris fashions of No. 126 of the _Lady's Newspaper_.

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NETTING

45. A KNITTING-BAG.

_Materials--Raworth's crochet-thread No. 40; a reel of pink cotton of the same size, or two pieces of white and two of pink netting-silk; three silk pink and white tassels; two yards and a half of silk bag-cord; half-a-yard of pink sarsnet; three meshes cornucopia gauge of No. 1, No. 6, and one No. 11; two netting-needles; and a piece of cane used for drawn bonnets_.

Set on 71 stitches with No. 1 mesh, join the round in pink cotton.--_No_. 11 _mesh_. Net 4 rounds of alternate white and pink.--* _No_. 1 _mesh (white cotton). 2_ plain rounds.--_No. 6 mesh_. Take 2 of the preceding row together in pink cotton; 1 plain round, same cotton and mesh.--_No_. 1 _mesh (white cotton_). Make 2 stitches in each stitch of the preceding row; 1 round plain, same cotton and mesh.--_No_. 11 _mesh (pink cotton_). Net 5 plain rounds; recommence from * twice; finish top of bag by 3 plain rows in white of No. 6 mesh, for the cords to pass through; 2 plain rows in pink of No. 11 mesh; last row, double pink cotton, with No. 1 mesh.

Take the half-yard of sarsnet, join it up neatly, make 3 runners the width of the cane, the first at three inches from the bottom, the second at two inches from the first, and the third two inches from the second; run a piece of cane ten inches long in the first runner, another piece of sixteen inches and a half long in the second runner, and one of eleven inches and a half long in the third runner; tack each of these bands of cane to the 5 rows of fine netting to form the shape, close up the bottom, and place a tassel; run the cord round the top of bag, and fasten a tassel to each end.

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NETTING

48. VASE-STAND.

_Materials--Shaded green, shaded scarlet, and shaded amber Berlin wool; meshes Nos. 1, 4, and 8_.

With scarlet make a foundation of 25 loops on mesh No. 4; join and net 1 round on mesh No. 8; fasten on the green; net 2 loops in 1; then net 3 rounds more with green, without increasing; fasten on the scarlet; net 1 round on mesh No. 4, 2 on mesh No. 8, 1 on mesh No. 4, and 2 on mesh No. 8; fasten on the green; net 6 loops in every loop on mesh No. 1; net 1 round with amber on mesh No. 8; fasten on the scarlet wool in the fourth round from edge, that is, in the same loops as that in which the row of scarlet, netted on mesh No. 4, was netted; into this row net 1 row on mesh No. 8; net 2 more rows with scarlet on mesh No. 8; then with green net 6 loops in each loop on mesh No. 1; net 1 row with amber on mesh No 8; fasten on the scarlet in the last row of green in the centre of the mat; into this row net 1 row on mesh No. 8; then net 6 more rows in the same mesh; net 6 loops in each loop on mesh No. 1; 1 row with amber on mesh No. 8.

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BRAID

49. WATCH-POCKET.

_Materials--Pink silk or satin, a piece of white silk braid, white silk fringe, and white satin ribbon_.

Draw the pattern on the silk with a white crayon, and hem the braid on; trim with the fringe, and rows of satin ribbon.

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CROCHET.

50. MITTEN.

_Materials--Raworth's crochet-thread Nos_. 120 _and_ 90, _or black crape silk_.

The receipt for the back of mitten is here given, the underpart and the thumb being simply French ground-work, finished at the top and bottom like the back, leaving an opening at the side for the thumb. Make a chain long enough to go round the wrist in thread No. 90, and work one plain row. Fasten on thread No. 120, and work one treble and row of French ground of six stitches to each hole.--

_1st fancy row_. 5 holes of French ground, 6 long close, 10 French ground.--

_2d row_. 5 French ground, 12 long close, 10 French ground.--

_3d row_. 4 French ground, 6 long close, 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 6 long close, 4 French ground.--

_4th row_. 5 French ground, 6 long close, 2 French ground, 6 long close, 2 French ground, 12 long close, 4 French ground.--

_5th row_. 5 French ground, 15 long close, 2 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 3 French ground.--

_6th row_. 7 French ground, 5 long close, 2 French ground, 18 long close, 4 French ground.--

_7th row_. 4 French ground, 5 long close, 2 French ground, 5 long close, 2 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 4 French ground.--

_8th row_. 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 3 French ground.--

_9th row_. 3 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 4 French ground, 18 long close, 3 French ground.--

_10th row_. 3 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 3 French ground.--

_11th row_. 3 French ground, 12 long close, 2 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 3 French ground.--

_12th row_. 5 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 5 French ground, 12 long close, 3 French ground.--

_13th row_. 6 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 3 French ground.--

_14th row_. 5 French ground, 5 long close, 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 4 French ground.--

_15th row_. 4 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 2 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 5 French ground.--

_16th row_. 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 18 long close, 9 French ground.--

_17th row_. 4 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 2 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 5 French ground.--

_18th row_. 4 French ground, 12 long close, 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 4 French ground.--

_19th row_. 12 French ground, 5 long close, 5 French ground.--

_20th, 21st, and 22d rows_. French ground.--

_23d row_. 1 plain, 5 long close, 1 plain into each loop.

_For the Edging_.--1 treble, 1 French ground.--

_1st fancy row_. 1 hole of French and 6 long close alternately all round.--

_2d row_. Wholes of French ground, 6 long close all round.--

_3d row_. 6 long close, 5 chain, 2 long close, 5 chain all round.--

_4th row_. Same as the 3d.--

_5th row_. 6 long close, 5 chain, 6 chain, 8 chain, 6 chain to be worked into the same loop, 5 chain; repeat all round. The engraving will greatly assist in working out this.

_Explanation of Terms_.--French ground: six chain stitches united to the centre stitch of former row. Long close: long stitches, without any chain-stitch between.

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CROCHET.

51. COLLAR.

_Flowers for the Border_.--The following is the mode of working this pattern:--Make 28 chain. Turn. Miss 17, 1 plain, 1 chain, 1 long, 2 chain. Continue to work 1 long and 2 chain all round the flower.--

_2d round_. 3 plain under every 2 chain; 4 plain in the stem. Fasten off for the leaf.

12 chain. Turn. Miss 2; 7 long stitches in 7 following chain, 1 plain; 1 chain to cross the stem; 3 long, 1 plain in the same chain as last long; 3 long, 1 plain, 5 long to turn the point; 1 plain, 3 long, 1 plain twice; 7 plain in stem. Fasten off. The second flower, worked as the first, is united to it by working the eighth plain stitch of the last round of the flowers into a stitch the same distance from the stem of the first flower. To turn the corners of the collar, work a flower without a leaf. Continue these flowers the length of the collar.

_Leaves and Flowers for the Centre_:--

_First leaf_. 31 chain. Turn. Insert the needle into the nineteenth chain; 1 plain, 1 chain to cross the stem; 3 long into three following chain; 2 long in 1 chain, 4 long, 2 long in 1 chain; 3 long to turn the points. Then down the other side of the leaf the same. 4 plain in the stem; 1 chain to cross the stem.--

_Second leaf_. 21 chain, and work as first leaf. When finished, work 4 plain down the stem.--

_Third leaf_. 13 chain. Turn. Miss 1, 1 plain, 7 long, 1 plain.--

_The flower_. 17 chain. Turn. Insert the needle in the tenth chain to form a loop; work 15 plain stitches in the loop.--

_1st round_. 6 chain, miss 2, 1 plain five times.--

_2d round_. 7 plain stitches in every 6 chain.--

_3d round_. 3 chain, miss 1, 1 plain; repeat. 17 plain in the stem. Fasten off for the band.

Work a chain the length of the collar.--

_1st row_. Plain.--

_2d row_. 1 plain, 2 long, 3 double long, 2 long, 1 plain; repeat. _Directions for making up the collar_.--After the leaves, flowers, band, and border are worked, cut the shape of the collar in pink or blue paper; gum a piece of holland at the back of the paper, to prevent its tearing; tack the border on the paper pattern, the right side downwards; then sew on the sprigs as in the engraving. Sew the edges of the leaves and flowers nicely, to prevent their turning up; then, with a sewing-needle and fine cotton, unite the flowers, leaves, and borders, by passing the needle from one part of a leaf or flower to another four or five times; then pass the needle under the bars formed six or eight times, according to the length of the bar; pass the needle to another part, and continue to connect the work in this manner throughout the collar.

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EMBROIDERY

52. CENTRE OF A COVER FOR MUSIC-BOOK OR PORTFOLIO.

_Materials--Black satin or velvet; three shades of green, two ditto of crimson, two ditto of blue, and one skein of olive silk; and one piece of silver twist_.

Work, in embroidery-stitch, the leaves with the greens, the flowers with the crimson, the stems with the olive, the harp with blue, the cords of harp with the silver twist, and the shamrocks with green.

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CROCHET.

53. WINTER HEAD-DRESS.

_Materials--Half-an-ounce of shaded scarlet Berlin wool, and six skeins of white wool; Penelope crochet No. 2_.

With white make a chain measuring 18 inches. Work a row in single open crochet. With scarlet work 2 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of each row. Work the next row with white, and continue alternately 2 rows scarlet and 1 white, decreasing every row until 9 rows are completed.

_For the Borders_.--With white work in chains of 7, missing every alternate stitch at the back, and taking every stitch at the sides; and for the space of 24 stitches in the centre of the cap miss 2 stitches. Work a second row of chains of 7 at the sides. Work an additional border in the same manner, taking the stitches above the third row of white. Pass casings of scarlet ribbon through each of the rows of white wool, place loops of the same between the borders, join the cap behind, and finish with a rosette of ribbon.

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54. "BABOCHE," OR ORNAMENT FOR CANDLES.

The materials required are, a quarter of a yard of bright rose-coloured glazed muslin, a quarter of a yard of white glazed jaconet muslin, two pieces of card of three inches and a half long and one inch broad; join in, and cut out of rose and white jaconet muslin twenty pieces of each colour; fold them, and sew on the card 5 rose, then 5 white, all round, and your baboche will be completed.--(_See_ drawing.) We assure our fair readers they are exceedingly pretty, and certainly not found _difficult_.

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SCAGLIOLA WORK

55. CHESS-BOARD.

SEE directions in page 22.

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CROCHET.

56. D'OYLEY.

_Materials--Shaded scarlet and green double Berlin wool; Raworth's crochet-thread No_. 16; _Penelope crochet No_. 1.

With green make a chain of 5 stitches, unite the ends; then make 7 chain, 1 single into each loop of the preceding chain.--

_1st round_. 5 chain, 1 single in the centre loop of the 7 chain; repeat four times.--

_2d, 3d, and 4th rounds_. 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1; repeat, uniting the ends of each round, and taking the loops at the back of the chain.--

_5th round (crochet-thread_.) 4 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble twice, 2 chain, miss 1; repeat.--

_6th round (green wool)_. 4 treble over the 4 in the last row, 1 double, 5 chain, 1 single through the loop in the last round twice, 5 chain, 1 single; repeat.--

_7th round (crochet-thread)_. 4 treble over the 4 in the last round, 1 double, 5 chain, 1 single over the 1 in the last round.--

_8th round (scarlet)_. 4 treble, 1 double, 3 chain, 1 double through the loop, 5 chain, 1 double twice, 3 chain, 1 double; repeat.

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CROCHET.

57. GAUNTLET CUFF.

_Materials--White and scarlet Berlin wool, three shades, and shaded green wool; Penelope crochet No_. 2.

With white make a chain of 40 loops, and work from the directions given for collar, page 38. Finish, to correspond with, collar, placing a rosette in the centre of the cuff, and fastening with a hook and eye.

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EMBROIDERY

58. LIQUEUR-STAND MAT.

_Materials--White silk or cashmere; three shades of crimson, three ditto of green, two ditto of brown chenille; five shades of scarlet Berlin wool, four skeins of each shade; and four skeins of white Berlin wool_.

Draw the pattern on the material, and work in embroidery-stitch; the roses with the shades of crimson; the leaves with green, shading according to taste; and the stems with brown. In working the designs for the corners, it is an improvement to introduce brown leaves occasionally. Work a shaded fringe round the edge with the wools on a mesh an inch and a half in width. Work the first round with white; the second, the lightest crimson; after which, work one round with each shade to the darkest; cut and comb the fringe, and line the mat with green silk.

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CROCHET APPLIQUE

61. BORDER FOR A LACE SCARF OR VEIL.

_Materials--If for a black veil, fine black crochet-silk; if white, Raworth's crochet-thread No_. 70.

The illustration represents the corner of the border.

_The Rose.--1st row_. 39 c s, 1 l s into eighth stitch, * 3 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third; repeat from * to end of chain, except the last three stitches, then 6 c s, 1 s c into last stitch.--

_2d row_. 5 c s, 1 l s over 1 s in last row (this row is worked on the other side of chain, where the two stitches were missed), * 2 c s, 1 l s over next 1 s; repeat from * to end of row. Turn. 4 c s, 1 l s round the 2 c s of last row, * 1 c s, 1 l s round the 2 c s of next space; repeat from * to end of row. Turn. 4 c s, miss one space, 1 l s into second space, * 1 c s, miss one space, 1 l s into second space; repeat from * to end of row. After the last l s one space is left. 1 c s, 1 l s into this. Turn. 4 c s, 1 l s into second space, 1 c s, miss one space, 1 l s into second, 1 c s, 1 l s into next, 4 c s, 1 s c into last space. Fasten off. Commence again on last s c stitch of first row. 3 l s, d l s into first space towards the top, 4 d l s into next space, 3 l s, 1 d c into third space, 3 l s, 2 d l s into next space, 3 t l s into top space, 2 d l s, 3 l s into next, 1 d c, 3 l s into next, 4 d l s into next, 4 d l s, 3 l s into next space. Continue all round thus: 6 d l s into next or corner space, 4 d l s into next and every other space except the end, into which 5 d l s, 1 l s. Turn. 4 c s, miss 2, s c into third, 4 c s, miss 2, d c into third, * 4 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third. Continue from * thirteen times, then 4 c s, d c into third stitch, 4 c s, miss 2, s c into third. Turn. 4 d c round every 4 c s all along the last row, 9 c s, s c into middle stitch of the first of three scallops at the top of the rose, 9 c s, s c into second stitch of top scallop, 9 c s, s c into middle of top scallop, 9 c s, s c into last stitch but one of same scallop, 9 c s, s c into middle of next scallop, 9 c s, s c into first of 4 d c stitches round the space of last row * 9 c s, miss 6, s c into seventh; repeat from * until these chains meet where they were begun; then * 1 l c s, s c into s c stitch on the other side of first chain; repeat from * all round.

_Wreath of Leaves and Buds_.--For the wreath under the corner rose: 94 c s, s c down twelve of these, * 7 c s, s c into third s c stitch; repeat from * three times more, which brings it to top stitch; 8 c s, s c into same stitch, * 7 c s, s c into third stitch down the other side; repeat from * three times more; pass the thread under the stalk, 3 d c into first loop of 7 c s, * 7 c, s c round next loop of 7 c s; repeat from * three times, which brings it to top loop; 7 c s, s c into same loop; repeat the 7 c into every loop down the other side; s c, 5 c s for a stalk; 10 c s, 1 d l s into fifth stitch, 5 more d l s into same stitch. Turn. D c along the top of these d l s. Turn. D c along last d c stitches; 9 c s, s c into d c stitch on the other side. Fasten off; this forms the bud. Commence again at the last s c of the stalk of leaf, s c along thirteen stitches; repeat the leaf and bud five times more; s c the remaining c s for a stalk. The wreaths under the roses at the sides are only to have five leaves and five buds on each, and require a chain of eighty-two stalks for the stem. Tack the flowers on paper wrong side up, as seen in the illustration. Tack the buds to the roses, and unite the leaves by a slight band in button-hole stitch. Tack the edges of the roses together, and the ends of the stems to the adjoining wreath; then remove the paper, and lay the bordering upon the edge of the scarf or veil, which should be of Brussels net. Sew the edge of the upper scallops of the rose to the net very firmly, and cut away the superfluous net.

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CROCHET.

62. CARD-PURSE.

_Materials--One skein of cerise, one of blue fine crochet-silk, one skein of gold twist; one hank of gold beads No. 6, one ditto of silver; a gilt top and tassel will also be required_.

Thread the gold beads on the cerise silk, and the silver on the blue, and with the cerise make a chain of 7 stitches, unite; make 2 stitches in each stitch in the 1st round, in every alternate in the 2d, and in every third in the 3d, passing down a bead in every stitch; work thus, increasing in each stitch until there are 42 bead-stitches in the round; now decrease each division of the star, working 6 bead-stitches, 1 plain, increasing in the plain stitch; then decrease 1 bead-stitch in every round till but one remain, increasing always in the same stitch in each round; work 2 plain rounds, still increasing as before; work 1 round with gold twist, without increasing; 1 round with cerise, passing down a bead at every stitch; and 1 round again with twist. Commence with blue, and work 1 plain round. There ought now to be 64 stitches in the round; if a greater number should be found, decrease by missing a stitch as may be found necessary. This must be done in the first round worked with blue.--_2d round (with blue)_. 10 plain, 3 beads, 1 plain, 2 bead-stitches; repeat all round.--

_2d round_. 8 plain, 8 beads; repeat.--

_3d round_. 12 plain, 4 beads; repeat.--

_4th round_. 4 plain, 4 beads, 5 plain, 3 beads; repeat.--

_5th round_. 2 plain, 6 beads, _4_ plain, 2 beads, 1 plain, 1 bead; repeat.--

_6th round_. 1 plain, 4 beads, 2 plain, 3 beads, 1 plain, 1 bead, 2 plain, 2 beads; repeat.--

_7th round_. 2 plain, 2 beads, 2 plain, 5 beads, 3 plain, 1 bead; repeat.--

_8th round_. 1 plain, 2 beads, 3 plain, 5 beads, 3 plain, 2 beads.--

_9th round_. 2 plain, 2 beads, 3 plain, 5 beads, 2 plain, 2 beads; repeat.--

_10th round_. 1 plain, 2 beads, 2 plain, 1 bead, 1 plain, 3 beads, 2 plain, 4 beads; repeat.--

_11th round_. 2 plain, 1 bead, 1 plain, 2 beads, 4 plain, 6 beads; repeat.--

_12th round_. 5 plain, 3 beads, 4 plain, 4 beads; repeat.--

_13th round_. 12 plain, 4 beads; repeat,--_14th round_. 8 plain, 8 beads; repeat.--

_15th round_. 10 plain, 2 beads, 1 plain, 3 beads; repeat.--

_17th round_. Plain, decreasing by missing every 16th stitch. Work 1 round with gold, then divide the purse, and work one-half with cerise; work 8 rows, passing down a bead at every stitch, and decreasing a stitch at the beginning and end of each row; work the other half to correspond; sew on to the top, and finish with tassel in the centre of star.

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CROCHET.

63. ROUND COLLAR.

_Materials--White, and three shades of scarlet and shaded green Berlin wool;_ _Penelope crochet No. 2_.

With white make a chain of 84 stitches; work a row of single open crochet.--

_2d row (lightest scarlet)_. 3 chain, 3 long, miss 2; repeat to the end.--

_3d row (second shade of scarlet)_. 1 long worked in the centre long stitch of previous row, 5 chain; repeat.--

_4th row (dark scarlet)_. 3 long worked above the long, and the last and first stitches of the chain, 4 chain; repeat.--

_5th row (green)_. Commence in the edge stitch of third row. 5 chain, miss 3 *, 5 long, 3 chain, miss 1; repeat from *, and work to the end, which must be finished with 5 chain, 1 plain, worked in the third row.--

_6th row (white)_. Commence at the edge-stitch of the third row. 6 chain, * 5 plain worked above the 5 long of previous row, 4 chain: repeat from * to the end, and finish with 6 chain. Fasten the white wool to the second stitch of fourth row, 6 chain, 3 plain worked above the 3 long of fourth row; repeat. Pass through every second stitch of white row, and place a rosette of ribbon at the end.

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EMBROIDERY

64. PRINCE OF WALES'S PLUME.

_Materials--Crimson satin and gold twist_.

Draw the design, and work in embroidery-stitch. This elegant design is suitable for the centre of a book-cover, a watch-pocket, and many other purposes, which the taste of the worker may suggest.

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NETTING

65. PATTERN FOR WINDOW-CURTAINS.

_Materials--Raworths crochet-thread No. 30, or fine knitting-cotton_.

Use cotton No. 10 for embroidering the pattern. Meshes No. 4, No. 6, and a flat mesh three-fourths of an inch in width, will be required for the edge.

Commence with a foundation of 300 loops on mesh No. 4, and net till the length required is worked; then net the following edge at the sides and end; net two loops in every loop on the large mesh, making four loops in the corner loops.--

_2d row_. Take two loops together, netting two in these.--

_3d row_. Take every loop on mesh No. 6.--

_4th row_. Like 3d row.--

_5th row_. Net two loops in every loop on the large mesh.--

_6th and 7th rows_. Like 3d and 4th. Work the pattern in darning-stitch, as in illustration.

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EMBROIDERY

66. GENTLEMAN'S BRACES.

_Materials--Black velvet or white satin ribbon of a very good quality, and five shades of crimson and three of green embroidery silk_.

Line the ribbon with linen; draw the design, and work in embroidery-stitch, shading, as taste may direct,--the leaves with the greens, and the roses with crimson, using three shades for each rose, and working first only with the lightest shades, then with the darkest only.

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EMBROIDERY

67. TOILET-CUSHION.

_Materials--White or black satin; three shades of crimson, three shades of yellow, three shades of green, and two shades of olive green embroidery silk; one yard of crimson and one yard of green chenille will also be required_.

Draw the pattern on the material, and work in embroidery-stitch one rose with the shades of crimson, and the second with the shades of yellow; the leaves with the shades of green, and the stems with olive; work a few stitches with the shades of the roses in the centre of the rose-buds, and work the corner designs with green and olive. In the arrangement of the colours, the taste and judgment of the worker must be exercised, as much depends upon the harmoniously blending of the various shades.

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NETTING

68. THE HELEN CAP.

_Materials--Scarlet floss silk, or five shades of scarlet Berlin wool; meshes Nos. 3 and 6; cornucopia gauge, and a flat mesh, an inch in width_.

The cap is worked in honeycomb netting, and the borders and rosette in plain netting. With the darkest shade make a foundation of 56 stitches on mesh No. 3, net 2 rows with each shade, increasing a stitch at the end of each row; leave one-half of the cap plain, and net a border in the following manner on the remaining loops and at the ends:--With the darkest shade net 4 loops in every loop on the flat mesh, increasing by making 6 loops in each of the three corner stitches; then on mesh No. 3, net 1 loop in each, and finish by netting a row with the next shade on the smallest mesh: this must be repeated at each side of the cap. For the second border, net 100 loops on the flat mesh on a foundation of wool, and finish to correspond with the first border. Two pieces netted in this manner are required, and they are arranged in festoons at the sides of the cap. Pass a cord the size required through the foundation-stitches, join it, and sew on a rosette made in the following manner:--With the darkest shade net 100 loops on mesh No. 3; then with the next shade net 2 rows at each side and at the ends; make this into a rosette with long ends, as in illustration.

This elegant and becoming head-dress derives its name from the beautiful sister-in-law of the Emperor of Russia, the Grand Duchess Helen, who introduced this style of coiffure at St. Petersburg.

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INDIAN ORNAMENTAL WORK

69. SCREEN.

Beautiful cabinets, work-boxes, work-tables, fire-screens, &c., may be painted in imitation of ebony inlaid with ivory by the following means:--Let your screen be made of an elegant form, but merely of common white wood or deal, prepared as below.

_Composition for the Surface of Wood_.--Steep one ounce of glue in a pint of cold water all night; throw off the water in the morning. Take six ounces of finest white lead in powder, mix it by degrees in a mortar, with about half a pint of cold water, till it is perfectly smooth, then place it, along with the glue, in a clean pan. Add half a pint more water; set it on the fire, stirring constantly till it boils. Let it boil three minutes; take it off, and pour it into a stone jar, and continue to stir it occasionally till cold. When cold, but before it congeals, take a clean paint-brush, and paint your screen with the composition. When it is quite dry, rub it over with sand-paper, to make it quite smooth; then give it another coat of the white composition, repeating the rubbing with sand-paper as before. Repeat this same process five or six times, until you obtain a smooth, equal, white surface. When that is accomplished, dissolve the fourth of an ounce of isinglass in a quarter of a pint of water; when cold, but liquid, give the screen a coat of it with a clean brush, and do not use the sand-paper after it.

_To Ornament the Screen_.--Lay a sheet of black tracing-paper on the screen, with the black side downwards; then place a pattern above it, with the right side uppermost; place a weight here and there, to prevent it slipping; then trace over the outline with a rather blunt stiletto. On removing the paper, you will find the outline of the pattern transferred to the surface of the screen. Trace over the outline, and shade, in lines, with a fine camel's-hair pencil dipped in Newman's lamp-black; fill in with the same.

_Varnish_.--Place four ounces of rectified spirit of wine in a wide-mouthed bottle; add one ounce of gum sandarac, a quarter of an ounce of gum mastic, and a drachm of camphor, all in powder. Put a stopper in the bottle, set it near a fire, and shake it occasionally. When all the gums are quite dissolved, add one ounce of oil of turpentine; then strain through muslin into another clean, dry wide-mouthed bottle. Let it stand a day or two before using.

_Mode of Varnishing_.--Take a large clean new varnish-brush, dip it into the bottle, and then cover over all your screen with it. When perfectly dry, give it another coat, and so on till it has had six coats; let it remain untouched for two days; rub it smooth with sand-paper; then give it two more coats of varnish, and repeat the rubbing, being careful to wait between each coat till the last is dry, and not to rub with sand-paper sooner than two days after varnishing, and never give more than two coats of varnish in a day--one in the morning, another at night. When you think it looks clear and sufficiently thick, give it another coat without using the sand-paper after it; let it stand four days; then rub it all over with pounded rottenstone, and wipe it off with a wet cloth; after which take a little Florence oil and hair-powder, and polish with your hand.

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KNITTING

70. HEARTSEASE.

_Materials--Split Berlin wool, and knitting-needles No. 20; cornucopia gauge_.

_Violet Petals_.--Cast on three stitches with a bright shade of violet; knit and pearl in alternate rows, making a stitch at the beginning of every row, until you have fourteen or sixteen stitches; then knit and pearl six rows alternately, without increase, and continue in knitted and pearled rows, decreasing one stitch at the beginning of each row, till six or eight stitches alone remain; these cast off in the plain row, taking the two last as one before you turn the last stitch over. Two petals like these are required.

_Large Yellow Petal_.--Take a bright, though rather deep, shade of yellow wool, split; cast on three stitches, knit and pearl in alternate rows, increasing one stitch before and one after the middle stitch in the plain row, till you have fifteen or seventeen stitches; take a higher shade of yellow, and work six more alternate plain and pearled rows, still increasing in the middle, but decreasing one stitch at the beginning of every row; change your wool for a deep violet, and continue to knit in alternate plain and pearled rows, decreasing one stitch at the beginning of each row, till seven stitches only remain; these cast off, taking the two last as one.

_Two smaller Petals_.--Exactly like the large one, but increased only to thirteen stitches. Sew a fine wire round each petal with split wool, tie the five petals together with a bit of green.

_Buds_.--Take eight or ten lengths of split wool, yellow and violet, place across a piece of wire, fold the wire, twist the ends, turn down the ends of wool, tie them round the wire, leaving out the length required for the bud (about a quarter of an inch); cover the stem with green wool, split; also the stem of the heartsease.

_Leaves_.--Begin with a shade of green wool, split as for one of the yellow petals, but you have thirteen stitches; cast off three at the beginning of the two following rows, go on increasing again to thirteen; cast off three at each end, and make thus as many scallops as will look well--in general three or four on each side make a very good-sized leaf; after the last scallops, decrease one stitch at the beginning of every row, till the leaf comes to a point.

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CROCHET.

71. SERVIETTE FOR LIQUEUR-STAND.

_Materials--Raworth's thread No. 30, and three shades of Manlove's pink crochet thread of corresponding size_.

With the lightest shade make a chain of 9 stitches; join to form a round.

_1st round_. Double crochet, increasing in every stitch.--

_2d round_. 5 chain. 1 plain, miss 2; repeat.--

_3d round_. 5 chain, 1 plain, taking the centre stitch of chain of previous round; repeat.--

_4th round_. Double crochet, increasing in every fifth stitch.--

_5th round_. 7 chain, 1 plain, miss 3; repeat.--

_6th round_. Double crochet.--

_7th round_. 1 chain, 1 plain above the centre stitch of chain in 5th round; repeat.--

_8th round (second shade of pink)_. 9 chain, 1 plain, worked in the plain of last round; repeat.--

_9th round_. Double crochet.--

_10th round_. 5 chain, 1 plain, miss 3; repeat.--

_11th round_. 4 chain, 1 plain, worked in the centre stitch of chain of last round; repeat.--

_12th round_. Double crochet, increasing in every ninth stitch. Now divide the work into three parts, commence with the darkest shade, and work as follows:--Fasten on the thread three stitches from the centre of one of these divisions; make a chain of 9 stitches, 1 plain, miss 6.--

_2d row_. Commence one stitch from the first stitch in last row, 1 chain, 1 long in every stitch; repeat, finishing by working a stitch in advance.--

_3d row_. Commence as in last row, 2 chain, 1 long, miss 1, and finish as before.--

_4th row_. Commence and finish as before, 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1; repeat.--

_5th row_. 3 chain, 1 long, miss 2; repeat, beginning and finishing as before.--

_6th row_. 1 long, 3 chain, miss 1; repeat, commencing and finishing as before. Now work the other two divisions in the same manner; after which work 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1, all round; then work a round in double crochet. This completes the centre.

_For the Edge_.--With white work 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1, all round.--

_2d round_. 7 chain, 1 plain, miss 3; repeat.--

_3d round_. 7 chain, 1 plain worked in the centre stitch of chain; repeat.--

_4th round_. 1 plain worked in the centre stitch of chain, 5 long worked in the following stitches: 1 plain, 7 chain, 1 plain in the centre stitch of chain, 7 chain; repeat.

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RIBBON WORK

72. A NEW AND ELEGANT WORK FOR SOFA PILLOWS, ANTI-MACASSARS, CARD-BASKETS, &c.

We will describe how to make an anti-macassar:--

_Take Penelope canvass, three quarters of a yard long, half a yard wide; a piece of crimson china ribbon; one piece of gold-colour, one of shaded lilac, and a rug-needle_.

Prepare the canvass by cutting away every 2 alternate threads, and draw them out the whole length of the canvass; next cut away and draw them out with tweezers, every 2 alternate threads, the whole of the width of the canvass. Next thread the rug-needle with crimson ribbon, and sew over the first 2 threads of canvass the lengthway of the canvass; when at the end, pass the needle to the next 2 threads and sew them over, taking care to keep the ribbon flat as possible; when at the top, return and cover the next two threads with the same coloured ribbon. This will make 3 stripes. Proceed the same with the gold-colour, 3 stripes; then the lilac, 3 stripes; then recommence with the crimson, and continue the same until you have the whole length finished. Next commence to sew over the same from side to side, which will form a chequered pattern, and has a rich effect. Finish round with a ruche of satin ribbon or fringe, crimson colour. If desired, can be worked with slight silk.

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CROCHET.

73. LADY'S SILK MITTEN.

_Materials_--10 _pieces of fine black crochet silk_; 2 _bundles of No_. 6 _steel beads; Penelope crochet No_. 3.

Make a chain of 84 stitches; work 1 row in plain-stitch crochet.--

_2d row_. 2 edge-stitches, 1 bead-stitch, 1 plain to the end of row.--

_3d row_. Plain.--

_4th row_. Same as 2d row.--

_5th, 6th, and 7th rows_. Plain.--

_8th row_. 4 plain, 4 bead to the end of row.--

_9th, 10th, and 11th rows_. As 8th row.--

_13th, 14th, and 15th rows_. Plain.--

_16th row_. 1 plain-stitch, 1 bead-stitch to the end of row.--

_17th row_. Plain.