Chapter II: Dressmaking

INSTRUCTIONS IN CUTTING OUT A DRESS.

In many instances, to be able to cut out and make up a dress is an acquisition of no small advantage to its possessor. This useful branch of female education is not, in our opinion, cultivated with that care its importance demands; and, in consequence, much expense is often incurred where the money might be applied to other important and necessary purposes. Some people have an idea that they can cut out a gown or other dress merely by looking at one already made, or by an inspection of the drawings, and in most cases very deficient descriptions, found in books of the fashions: but this is a sad mistake. No great exertions are necessary in order to become capable of practising this part of domestic economy; but still its principles must be understood, and its most simple rules impressed on the memory, before anything like accuracy, to say nothing of proficiency, can be attained.

No one will deny the importance of dress; it is, in fact, an index to the character; and the female who is utterly regardless of her appearance, may be safely pronounced deficient in some of the more important qualities which the term “good character” invariably implies. On the other hand, a regard to neatness and order, held in due subordination to the exercise of the nobler faculties, will generally be found to stand in close connexion with an earnest endeavor after the attainment of intellectual and moral excellence. Thus, an attention to neatness in dress, and to its judicious arrangement, so as to be in accordance with the station and circumstances of the wearer, becomes of much more moment than, on a superficial view of the subject, some might be disposed to admit.

Most girls begin dressmaking very early; that is to say, when they clothe their dolls: and very good practice it is. When their mother gives them a remnant of print, and they turn it about, and measure it to ascertain whether there is enough for a frock, and if there is not enough for a frock, determine whether it shall be a petticoat or a pinafore, and cut it out accordingly,--all this is practice in dressmaking. When the doll is bidden to lie very still to be fitted, and when she is laid sometimes on her face, sometimes on her back, and sometimes held with her head downward, while a paper pattern of her waist is being cut,--all this is practice in dressmaking. The practice will be all the better if the mother can spare a minute to look on, and point out that the front of the body may, if convenient, be cut on the cross, but that the backs and arm pieces must be straightwise of the cotton; and if she can just show how far back the join of the sleeve should go, and how the skirt should be a little taken up in front, that it may sit well, and not hang lower before than behind. It will be kind in the mother, too, not to allow bad work in a doll’s dress, any more than in her own gowns. If you have had a mother or a schoolmistress who let you dress a doll, and made you do it neatly, you have had as good an introduction to your future business as you could desire.

From making your doll’s frocks, your next step was, probably, to make your own. Your first attempt, perhaps, was to run the seams of the skirt of your cotton frock,--to run the selvage seams with a backstitch, and, in case of a gore or half-breadth, to make a hem with the selvage over the cut edge. If you puckered it in the least, I hope you were made to take it out and do it again, taking care to pin the edges together at short distances the whole length, that you might not find, when you came to the bottom, that one breadth gave you an inch or two over the other. Some few things about making a skirt should have been explained to you at the beginning--things which are true about the making of all skirts, through every change of fashion, and whether the dress be of the coarsest stuff or the richest satin. These are--

1st. That you should pin or tack together the breadths of the skirt at the top, before you begin, so that you may not chance to put in more gores on one side than the other (if there are gores), or find that the hind-breadth comes to one side.

2dly. That you should, while thus arranging the breadths, look very carefully that no one breadth is turned wrongside out, if there are two sides; or, if figured, with the pattern upside down.

3dly. That, as the uppermost edge takes up the most, as your work lies over your finger, and as the cut edge stretches more than the selvage, you should, as beforementioned, pin from top to bottom, before you begin to join them, the breadths on which you are employed. This is the surest way of avoiding puckering.

4thly. That you should, as often as possible, begin your run at the top, so that if there is any left over, it may go off at the bottom, where it is of the least consequence. You can do this in every case but where you have to join a cut edge and a selvage, and must begin at the bottom, in order to have the selvage uppermost.

5thly. That you must remember that gored skirts hang lower at the bottom of the gores than either before or behind, and that the first turning in of the hem should be therefore laid in rather deeper at the sides of the skirt.

6thly. That you should make your fastenings so good as that the dress may wear out before they give way. This is particularly important with regard to the pocket-holes and the openings behind, which should be well secured by stitching, or a bar at the turn. It is very trying to a lady to find her skirt slit down behind the first time she slips her gown over her head, or her pocket-hole give way before she has put her hand into it half a dozen times.

With these remarks, and a proper share of attention, the following instructions will remove much of the difficulty in which the novice in the art of dressmaking finds herself involved.

First the materials for the intended dress must be procured, and it is advisable, whenever practicable, to get them all at the same time. The necessary requisites are the material, the lining for the body and skirt, wadding, covering, hooks and eyes, silk, thread, and what is called stiffening muslin. You will require all those for a silk dress, and most of them for those of other fabrics.

Having thus procured the required articles, proceed to cut out the dress, first measuring off the number of breadths of the proper length for the skirt (which is, of course, to be regulated by the height of the wearer, and by the manner in which it is intended to be made), and try them carefully on one side. If tucks are to be introduced into the skirt, a proper allowance must be made for these, as also for the turnings both at top and bottom. You next cut out the sleeves, as being the largest parts of the garment except the skirt. In cutting out the sleeves, you must first prepare a paper pattern of the required shape; then double the lining, and cut it exactly the shape of the paper, leaving about an inch all round for the turnings in. You will thus cut the sleeve linings both together, and will avoid some labor and all danger of making one larger than the other. Double the silk or other material so as that both the wrong sides may face each other, and cut the sleeves by the lining just prepared. To secure exactness, it is best to tack it to the material. Be careful to lay the straight side of the pattern to the selvage of the silk.

The sleeves being thus prepared, proceed to take the proper measures for the front and back of the body, by fitting a paper pattern to the shape of the person for whom the dress is intended. The paper should be thin, and you commence by folding down the corner the length of the front, and pinning it to the middle of the stay-bone. Then spread the paper as smoothly as possible along the bosom to the shoulder, and fold it in a plait, so as to fit the shape exactly, and bring the paper under the arm, making it retain its position by a pin; from this point you cut it off downward under the arm, and along the waist; the paper is then to be rounded for the arm-hole and the shoulder, and you must recollect to leave it large enough to admit of the turnings. In the same manner you proceed to form the back, pinning the paper down straightly; and leaving sufficient for the hem, you fit it to the shoulder and under the arm, so as to meet the front. You will thus have an exact pattern of half of the body, and this is all that is necessary, as, of course, you cut both sides, both of the front and back, at the same time. The linings are to be cut by the pattern, and the silk by the linings. You must take care to cut the front crosswise of the silk, and in two separate pieces, which are afterward joined in the middle. If the plait made in the pattern be very large, it must be cut out on the silk, or the body will not fit well to the shape; if small, it may be left: but we think that, in all cases, to cut it out is the preferable method.

It is not generally advisable to cut out the half of the back all in one piece, as it fits better with pieces joined at the sides; these are called side-bodies; and this method should always be adopted, unless the lady has a very flat back: in that case, it is best to cut the half all in one piece. The backs must be cut straight; and it is best to tack the material to the lining before cutting it.

Having thus prepared the several parts, begin to make the garment, by running or seaming the breadths of the skirt together; and be sure that it is made full: a narrow or straight skirt is now completely, and very properly, exploded. Run the seams as evenly as possible, fastening the ends to your knee, or to a pincushion screwed to the work-table, to hold them firmly. Run the lining together in a similar manner, and fasten each of the outside seams to a corresponding one in it; after which turn the edges at the top down on the inside, and sew them firmly together. Between the lining and the silk it is usual to introduce some kind of material, as stiffened muslin or wadding, to hold the bottom of the dress in its proper place. This is fastened to the lining, and the silk is hemmed down upon it. Care must be taken that no stitches appear on the right side. An opening in one of the seams must be left for the pocket-hole, which must not exceed one quarter of a yard in length. You run the silk and the lining together, as at the top, and make a plait which is to be folded over on the right side; this is secured at the bottom, and conceals the opening. Having thus completed the skirt, to which flounces may be added, or into which tucks may be introduced, if deemed advisable (they seldom are in silk dresses), you proceed to make the sleeves, running up a cord on one side of the silk or other material, and folding both the silk and the lining the same way, you stitch them together, and leave an opening at the wrist; you then turn the sleeve, and the edges being on the inside are not seen. The sleeve being thus seamed up, it is, if full, to be gathered, or done in small plaits at the bottom, to the size of the wrist. The gathers, or plaits, are set into a narrow band, lined, and you cord as you please, or as is most in accordance with the prevailing fashion. You next put on the trimmings at the top of the sleeve, and then set it into the arm-hole with small plaits. Some put on the trimmings after the sleeve has been set on to the body; but it is a most incorrect and inconvenient practice.

The next thing to be done is to put the several parts of the body or waist together. This should be done slightly, and the body tried on, in order that the fit may be made as perfect as possible. When this is done, sew the parts firmly together, and put a cord over all the joinings except those under the arms. Fasten the plaits down on the fronts, hem the parts which require it, cut the proper shape round the neck, and see that the arm-holes are so made as to be easy and agreeable. Then hem the back, stitch the dress up the front as firmly as you can, and do the same at the shoulders, the side-bodies, and under the arms; after which you must put a cord or band at the waist, and also insert a cord round the neck. This cording of the neck and waist require much care and attention; for if not done properly, the appearance of the dress will be spoiled. In case you prefer a band to a cord at the waist, it must be lined, and the lining put on first, and afterward covered with the material of which the dress is composed. If there be any trimming on the body, it must be put on before the sleeves are set in. A cord is to be set round the arm-holes as neatly as possible.

The body being now finished, you have only to set it on to the skirt, which is to be doubled more in front than at the back, in order to form the slope. You gather the part not plaited, and join it to the body. In setting on the back, it is best not to gather it, but to fold each gather as you proceed: this secures an evenness not otherwise easily to be obtained. The depth of the slope varies, and no certain rule can be given, except that in all cases the skirt must be a little shorter before than behind; otherwise much inconvenience will be found in walking, especially where it is the fashion to wear the dress of a considerable length.

It is often deemed desirable to have a cape to the dress of the same material. This is often found to be a great convenience; and no great art, though a proper degree of attention, is required in making it. The lining is to be tacked to the silk or stuff, and the cape cut out by a paper pattern the size and shape required. Before taking out the tacking thread, a cord should be run in at the edges, and these latter are to be turned, and the lining sewed down firmly upon them. You now take out the thread, and ornament or leave the cape plain, just as you please. In making flounces, you must remember that they must in all cases be cut on the cross, otherwise they will not hang with that degree of exactness and freedom which is desirable. They are to be run on a cord at the top, the size of the skirt, and gathered. They should also be corded at the lower edges. Sometimes a slot is made at the top of the flounce, and the cord run in. This is much to be preferred to the common method.

Tucks, with or without open work between them, have an exceedingly neat appearance, and never look out of fashion. They are especially proper in black and white dresses; and when they are put on, it is essential that they should be cut straightwise of the material. To cut them crosswise is decidedly improper. It is sometimes good economy to make the sleeves of a dress in two separate parts each, so that the lower portion can be taken off at pleasure. For an evening dress this is found very convenient, as the under part will come off at the elbow, and a ruffle of lace can be substituted in its place, which gives a short sleeve a neat and finished appearance.

The directions here given apply principally to dresses made of stuff or silk. In those made of muslin or calico some slight variations occur. These latter are not always lined; indeed, cotton prints for summer wear are seldom done so; but the lining of muslin dresses is becoming much more common than it was some years since, experience having shown that the dress when lined through sits much neater upon the person than it does without. In cases where linings are omitted, a piece of some strong material must be run in at the bottom of the skirt, and firmly held down with the hem. But we think a thin lining, even for the light dresses worn in summer, is to be preferred. It is a good plan to set a cord round the bottoms of dresses; they soon wear, but the cord is a great advantage, as when it gets unsightly, a new one can with little trouble be put in its place, and the dress remains the same length as before.

If proper attention be paid to these directions, any lady may soon learn to make her own dresses; to do which would be, in a variety of instances, a decided advantage. Where there is a family of children, the mother finds that if she has to have all their dresses made by hired hands, it will most materially increase the expenses incurred for clothing; and to avoid this, she does them herself, without the requisite experience: the chance is that she wastes more in one way than she saves in the other, and the garments are illy fitted in the bargain.

In making children’s dresses, many of the directions already given will be found equally applicable. Frocks for both boys and girls are generally made with the bodies full, but the pattern must be cut plain in paper, the same as in the garments intended for persons of more mature age. The bodies of children’s frocks are often made without linings, but, as a general rule, we think the practice is exceptionable. The clothing of young persons should always be made so as to support the frame, without cramping its growth, or impeding its muscular action by unnecessary and injudicious pressure. The skirts of frocks intended for little boys are often cut crosswise, and look pretty and becoming. In dresses made of figured silk, or muslin, or cotton prints (for children), the tucks should always be cut crosswise. This is especially to be attended to in plaid patterns.

Frocks for girls are by some persons directed to be made to come high up to the neck. This is, in our opinion, a practice that should be avoided. The body, on the contrary, should be rather low, and made to lie firmly upon the projecting part of the shoulder, but not to fall off upon the upper arm: this is almost as unsightly as the high body we disapprove of. The graceful form of the bust, one of the most exquisite productions of creative skill, should by no means be concealed; a necklace is its proper adornment; and should it be said that the clothing them up to the neck is necessary on the score of health, nothing can be farther from the truth. In fact, a moderate exposure to the action of the sun and air is essential to the possession of good health. The notion that to cover up the neck and bosom of a little girl will prevent her taking cold, is ridiculous in the extreme. It is the most likely way we know of, of securing the evil it is intended to avoid. A holland or diaper pinafore, made to come up to the throat, and put on at times of unusual exposure to the cold, would answer every desirable end. We hope that all mothers, who may read our observations, will at once abandon the idea of high-bodied frocks being in any way conducive to the health or comfort of their female children.

MANTELET.--In the making of this useful and favorite article of ladies’ attire, there is much variety in the materials employed. They are sometimes made of shawling, but more commonly of silk, satin, cloth, velvet, and merino. The mantelet comes down nearly to the knee, and is lined either with silk or muslin, and occasionally with glazed cotton cloth. The shape is that of the cape of a cloak, and should be cut by a pattern to insure accuracy; five breadths of the material will be required, and the neck is hollowed to make it fit comfortably; it can be either gathered into a band or set on to a collar. In the latter case, the collar must be made to turn over. You trim the mantelet in any manner you think the most becoming, with velvet, satin, or fur; or it may be trimmed with either fringe or lace. It is neat, and very convenient for a lady, either for a short walk, or as a part of a summer’s evening dress; in the latter case, the material and lining should be as light as possible.

LADIES’ SILK CLOAK.--Choose a silk that is of a color not liable to fade, of which six breadths are required, and the width of the cloak is five breadths; the length is, of course, made according to the height of the person who is to wear it. You cut the shoulder pieces first in paper, taking a cloak already made for your guide, and having fitted them exactly to the person, lay the paper upon the lining, and cut it out; the silk is cut out by the lining; and be careful to leave sufficient for the turnings in. Prepare the collar in the same way, pointed at the corners and slanting toward the neck; the collar is hollowed out at the top from the front corners, to a sufficient depth behind, to insure its falling gracefully over the shoulders and back. It is lined with silk, between which and the outside stiff muslin is to be introduced. The shoulder pieces are to have flannel or wadding between the silk lining and the material. Those who have no cloak at hand from which to take a pattern for the shoulder pieces, may obtain one by the following simple method: Take a piece of thin paper, and cut it in the shape of a round collar; hollow it out at the top, until it will lie over the shoulders perfectly straight and close.

The various parts being thus ready, proceed to make up the cloak. First the breadths are to be seamed together, so as to show the stitches as little as may be. One breadth is to be thrown to the back, and at one nail and a half from the seam cut the arm-holes three and a quarter nails long, and two and a quarter below the shoulder pieces, which are to be next made by running the material and the lining together, with the wadding between them, on the wrong side, and then turning them. You next double the three back breadths, and hollow them so as to fit the shoulder pieces; into which the whole is afterward to be set in as full and even as possible, the two front breadths reaching to the shoulder, and all the rest being set on to the back. At the distance of four nails from the shoulder pieces, plait in the back so as to fit the waist; and a band, of a sufficient length to encircle the person, is laid upon the folds behind, and drawn to the inside through two apertures cut on each side, and worked as button-holes; this band is fastened by buttons or hooks in front. Sometimes a riband-case is made on the inside, and strings run through it, which answers the same end. You next make the collar in the same manner as you prepared the shoulder-pieces, and set it on to the neck. These cloaks are trimmed in various ways. The arm-holes, when not in use, are concealed by pieces of the silk, three and a quarter nails in length, and half a nail in breadth, which are lined and set on to one side. They must have a row of piping set on all round. You may trim the fronts with a hem, one nail and three quarters deep, of velvet, cut crosswise; or, if you prefer it, you can substitute an edging of fur: but we think that velvet looks the most handsome and becoming. The cloak is sewed round the neck with silk cord of the same color, and finished with tassels, or an ornamental clasp is adopted; either is suitable, and may be used at pleasure.

These cloaks are very elegant, when properly made. Sometimes they are furnished with capes of the same material, which are generally loose, and are found very convenient. They may be worn as mantelets, without the cloak, and are made as follows:

Take a sheet of paper as large as you intend half the cape to be, and round off the corners so as to form it into a perfect circle; double this, and from the straight side cut a small half round for the neck: open the pattern, and from the front of the inner half circle double one side in a slanting direction, for the opening in front. No precise rule can be given; but the paper must be so fitted to the person that the fronts may meet when the cape is worn. Having got your pattern correct, cut out the lining by it, and lastly the silk for the cape; both, but especially the outside, must be cut crosswise. The lining and silk are to be neatly run together and then turned, and the back seam seamed up. The trimming of the cape must be the same as that of the cloak.

CARRIAGE CLOAK.--For persons who have to travel in cold seasons or in open carriages, these cloaks afford a degree of warmth and comfort not to be despised or disregarded. The material is either plaid or some woollen fabric, and the manner of making a cloak of this description is as follows: The material should be eleven nails in width, and the general length of the cloak is one yard and a half. Of this, five breadths are sufficient for the width of the skirt. The arm-holes are made at the distance of five nails from the top, and are five nails in length. This cloak is furnished with sleeves, which are sewn almost plain into the arm-holes, and may be made use of or not, as is deemed most convenient. They are made of squares of the material, eight nails by eight, so that when doubled and sewn up they are eight nails long and four in width. The cloak is gathered at the neck into a band the proper width, and a collar is added, as are also one or more capes. The length of the neck-band varies, but its medium length is ten nails. This kind of cloak is lined throughout with calamanca, glazed cotton cloth, or flannel; and it is a wrapper, without which no delicate female should presume to travel in our uncertain climate. A neat button, clasp, or chain, secures it at the throat.

GARDEN CLOAK.--This is a useful article, and is generally made of plaid or merino. Three breadths of the latter, of what is called double width, will be sufficient for the cloak; of the former you will require five breadths. You cut the shoulder-pieces and the collar as before directed, and the arm-holes are made in the same position as those in a silk cloak; they are three nails and a half from the lower part of the shoulder piece, and four nails in length. They are concealed by pieces lined and piped, as those for a silk cloak. The whole of the garment is lined with glazed cotton cloth, either of black or of any other color that is deemed suitable, and fastened at the neck by a hook or clasp.

A BOY’S CAPE OR CLOAK.--This may be made of Scotch plaid or any other suitable material. You cut an entire circle, as large as you design the cloak to be; in the centre of this, cut a small aperture, about twice the size of that required for the neck, and cut thence to the edge on one side; this makes the opening for the front. Gather the neck into a band, hem the fronts on the outer edge, and the cloak is complete.

PIPING.--This is often used as an ornament or finish to silk cloaks or other dresses. It is made in the following manner: enclose a cord of the proper thickness in a strip of silk cut crosswise, and put it on in the most even manner possible.

As plaiting and making tucks are much used in dress-making, we close with directions concerning them.

In plaiting, make the plaits as even as possible; and in double plaiting, they must be laid both ways, and made to meet in the middle.

Tucks require to be made even, and it is a good plan to run them by a card cut the proper width. They must be run on with small and regular stitches, and a backstitch must be taken constantly as you proceed.