Chapter IV

FURTHER COASTING VOYAGE OF THE GERMANIA. 17TH AUGUST
TO 13TH SEPTEMBER, 1869.[46]

The Germania anchored on the south side of the island of
Klein-Pendulum.--Still open water to the south.--Return
to Shannon Island.--Arrival near Cape Philip Broke.--The
Germania anchors near the Stufenberg.--Journey to
Sabine Island.--Fruitless attempt to cruise towards the
north.--Storm.--The Germania steers southwards.--Ascent of
3000 feet up the Sattelberg by First Lieutenant Payer, Dr.
Copeland, and P. Ellinger.--Glimpse into the interior of the
Fjord from the top of the Sattelberg.--Tracks of Lemmings
on the top.--Remains of an Esquimaux summer hut.--Return to
winter-quarters under Sabine Island.--Results obtained.

We now resume our narrative on board the Germania, August 17. The following day a fresh southerly breeze was blowing, raising the sea and bringing up much ice, compelling us to veer away the cable, and keep everything in readiness for a move in case of need. The ice, which, on account of the roughness of the sea, was constantly breaking away from the pack, kept coming up from the west. At times we were so completely surrounded by it, that we had to hoist up the boats, and were so prevented from landing. The sky, during this southerly wind, was obscured by continual fogs--the average temperature being not many degrees above freezing point.

On the evening of the 19th of August the wind dropped, the ice opened again, and we were soon lying in open water, and able to keep up communication with the shore.

We made observations on the current the next day, and sent men on shore to hunt for food; they returned with some musk-oxen which they had killed. Payer also came on board.

August 21. Weather warm and foggy. Snowfall in the afternoon with a light wind from the north-east, in consequence of which we were prevented from continuing our labours on shore. Meanwhile we made preparations for further excursions on the island, and for a stay of some days for our scientific staff, as our captain intended to sail westward in order to ascertain the condition of the land-ice, and gain a general view of the ice from the high mountains on Klein-Pendulum. There was no prospect as yet of getting further north from the eastward of Shannon. The passage had, in fact, become narrowed; and from the east the pack had begun to settle nearer in to shore.

After landing the scientific staff with the necessary crew, and a boat in case of necessity, at noon on the 22nd, with a light north wind, we steered westward along the solid land-ice. Somewhat broken in the edges, the ice here slightly changed its aspect and showed signs of breaking-up. On the eastern side of Klein-Pendulum the ice remained solidly firm, and it was only on the southern side that we found open water for anchorage.

Next day a fresh breeze sprang up from the north, with a cloudy sky. The weather being in other respects fair, the captain ascended a mountain, 1990 feet high, in order to survey the ice; but so thick a fog prevailed that he was compelled to return on board without having accomplished his object. The next day the sky cleared, although a fresh breeze still blew from the north, and it became possible to obtain a clear view from the top of the mountain, which, however, was not encouraging for further progress northwards. The line of the land-ice was still almost the same, and what lay between Shannon Island and the mainland was quite solid. We could see Haystack and the high promontory to the west quite distinctly, but entirely surrounded with solid ice. North and west of Shannon Island immense fields were visible, mostly close packed; and even the open space between it and the mainland, which a week ago was quite clear, was now filled with large fields. Only in the south-east, and along the coast towards the south, was open water still to be descried. Eastwards, Gael Hamkes Bay appeared to be open, but close round Cape James and the adjacent island the ice was again thick. There was, consequently, little hope this year of penetrating further north. Besides, Captain Koldewey hardly expected that it would be possible for the Hansa to reach the coast, as the pack had apparently again become closer, and the open water under the coast had become narrower.

In the afternoon the weather cleared, enabling us to make correct surveys and soundings of the coast-line. The soundings gave us a fine and safe anchorage under the lofty mountain, afterwards named Stufenberg. The bottom shelved gradually, and it became possible to anchor in a soft clay in four fathoms close under the mountain. The night was calm, and during it a quantity of new ice formed round us; which, however, broke up under the influence of a stiff southerly breeze. We availed ourselves of this breeze to return to Shannon Island, as we feared being cut off it by the approaching pack. About half-past four p.m. we sailed round the northern cape of the island, steering along the land-ice, as we could not take the direct route to Cape Philip Broke on account of the large fields. Towards six p.m. we came upon new ice, which during the late calm had formed between the fields. This we broke through easily at first, but presently stood still, owing to the breeze dying out. We broke through this ice, and got out hawsers to tow the ship through, as at a mile to the N.W. open water was in sight. The fields, however, united, and so piled up the ice that it became impossible to advance. We had no resource left, therefore, but to get up steam, which enabled us to break through. At times it was so thick that we had to charge it repeatedly with full steam, in order to force a passage. At length, at twelve (midnight), we anchored under Cape Philip Broke. The night was calm, and the sky cloudless. The temperature fell to 22° Fahr., and new ice rapidly formed. Dr. Copeland, who had observed our progress from land, informed us that Payer was still on the southern hill some miles away from anchorage. Their tents, however, had been pitched quite close to us.

The captain requested Dr. Copeland to hoist a flag as a signal for Lieut. Payer to return on board immediately. The anchorage by Cape Philip Broke appeared to be no longer tenable, as large fields continued drifting towards us from the east, filling up the bay between Shannon and Pendulum islands. According to our astronomers, who had been constantly watching the ice from the eastern hill, there remained only one open channel to the east of Shannon. As far as they could judge, the ice to the north had not begun to move yet. Under these circumstances, our chances of further explorations to the north this autumn became fainter and fainter.

On the return of Lieutenant Payer and his men on the morning of the 29th, the captain summoned a council of the scientific staff and officers, to obtain their opinions as to the feasibility of penetrating further. Taking into consideration all circumstances, the utter improbability of our being able to advance further north, the danger of our present anchorage, and the non-arrival of the Hansa, which we had now given up altogether, it was unanimously resolved, as being most in accordance with the object of the Expedition; to return to the safe anchorage on the south side of Klein-Pendulum, there to complete the survey of the surrounding country; and, if possible, to undertake a sledge-expedition to the mainland.

We had on that island the additional advantage of the mountain, whence we were enabled to observe the movements of the ice, and at once avail ourselves of any favourable opportunity. We still hoped that the autumnal storms would bring about a general breaking-up.

August 27, at four p.m., we raised anchor and steered southwards. The sea was now everywhere frozen over, and mostly covered with inch-ice, through which we could only force a passage with full steam power up. We found open water only near Bass Rock, and could sail freely and quickly round the island. We anchored at eleven p.m. under Stufenberg, in four fathoms.

On the following days the weather was fine and clear, with light north and west winds, so that the labours of the astronomers in determining our locality, as well as observations regarding the magnetic influences and current, together with Lieutenant Payer’s work, made good and rapid progress. Dr. Pansch, whose arm was now almost well, had resumed his active labours in the cause of science, and examined the remains of the Esquimaux huts which were discovered under the Stufenberg, and formed botanical collections. The island, partly barren, and clothed with scanty vegetation, was explored in all directions. Whenever time allowed we went out shooting, but, with the exception of a few Arctic hares, brought back no game. The position of the ice was constantly watched from the mountains, and on the 13th of August Payer reported that, upon the whole, its position had not altered; also that the young ice between Shannon and Pendulum Islands had not disappeared; and that that lying to the north-east of Shannon was quite firm.

Accordingly, when the work on Klein-Pendulum was finished, we sailed on the 1st of September to the small harbour on the south side of Sabine Island, in order to start on a lengthy excursion to the mainland. The nights were now growing darker and darker, the formation of the young ice proceeded rapidly, so much so that nothing but a strong wind could break it. The weather, which during the whole of our stay on the coast had been particularly tranquil and fine, began now to be unsettled and stormy. On the night of the 2nd of September the first violent storm burst from the N.N.W., accompanied by a heavy fall of snow. The wind came down in gusts from the mountains, and we had to let go our second anchor and pay out much cable, which kept us secure. As on this coast all violent winds blow from the north, anchorage is very insecure on the north side, particularly in spring-time, when, on account of the stronger motion of the ice, it is extremely dangerous.

At last, on the morning of the 7th, the air cleared and a fresh wind blew from the north. From the deck we could see the heavy pack-ice drifting rapidly past our harbour southwards; the young ice, too, was loosened and parted from the land, so that we were once more in open water. Looking from the mountain, the pack-ice in the east formed a complete block; only about our island and to the south of the island of Shannon was there open water. On the eastern side from Klein-Pendulum, too, a large field had been pushed forward and pressed close to the land, so that even the road to Shannon was no longer open. In the night another heavy storm burst, which obliged us to let go the second anchor. The weather-side of the ship, and the bow, even under the bowsprit, were covered over with a thick coating of ice from the washing of the water. At midnight, under a clear sky, a calm of several hours’ duration fell suddenly; but in the morning the wind again blew from the north, sometimes assuming the force of a storm, as we could see from the quick motion of the heavy pieces of ice. We hoped that this continuous north wind would sweep a clear path for us, and thus be favourable to a last attempt at gaining the north. Accordingly, at nine a.m., although it was still blowing freshly, we set sail, tacking northwards towards Klein-Pendulum. However, we were not able to go far, for we were met by a violent downfall of snow; the wind once more rose to a storm, and we were again compelled to anchor under the protection of Klein-Pendulum. In the afternoon another heavy storm broke with hurricane gusts from the mountains, the air being thick with snow; so that we had to ride by both anchors, and were unable to do any sort of work in the open air.

The next morning (the 10th of September), as the wind was still blowing hard, Captain Koldewey climbed the highest summit of the island, in order to obtain a good look-out over the ice. The air was clear; not a bit of fog, so that on all sides we had a wide prospect, which, unfortunately, showed us that any advance with the ship at this time of the year was impossible. The ice between Shannon and the mainland, and further along the coast towards the north, lay unchangeably solid, exactly the same as on our arrival; and the land-ice in the creek between Shannon and Pendulum islands was only slightly broken. The pack-ice to the east was completely closed up, having large fields which were pressed close to the land under Klein-Pendulum, shutting up the access to the Shannon, under which island, however, there was an open channel. To the east of Shannon Island a small strip of water showed itself now and then, but, most probably, the large fields were revolving in the immediate neighbourhood of the land-ice, preventing any continued sailing, even had we been mad enough to venture between these grinding masses. Along the coast to the south appeared a small strip of open water, and the captain decided upon availing himself of the north wind for exploring this in the interests of the undertaking. On the 10th of September we therefore weighed anchor at one p.m., and steered southwards with a moderate north breeze. A field lay between Walrus and Sabine Island; but close under the latter, we found in four fathoms of water a small passage to the south. We could no longer sail round Walrus Island, which lay to the east.

At six p.m. we found ourselves over against a creek, at the egress of a valley, through which ran a stream from the glaciers, which we called “Königin-Augusta Thal.”[47] As this creek was very shallow, we called it “Flache Bay.” We dropped anchor here, as southwards so much ice was pushed close to the coast that it was impossible to sail round Cape Borlase Warren. The glacier stream had accumulated such an amount of rubbish, that even at the mouth with a boat one could not land, and at low water the greater part of the bay was dry. Only under the steep mountains to the south could we land at all.

The night was fine and starlight, the temperature 29.5° Fahr. The astronomers availed themselves of this opportunity to determine the exact Polar latitude with the sextant, which gave the lat. at 74° 24′ 3″. The next morning First Lieutenant Payer and Dr. Copeland climbed the “Sattelberg,” more than 3700 feet high, one of the loftiest peaks of this peninsula. Payer reported the following:--

“Our intention of inspecting the interior of ‘Gael Hamkes Bay,’ and the branches of the Fjord to westward, had led us towards Flache Bay. From thence a two-hours’ boat journey to Cape Borlase Warren convinced us that it was impossible to penetrate into the interior by means of the ship, on account of the numerous icebergs and floes which were stranded at the entrance. There remained, therefore, but one means to gain our end--the climbing of a high overlooking mountain. The only one we could see fit for this purpose was the Sattelberg, 3700 feet high, which formed the highest point to the north of Gael Hamkes Bay, and was easily reached from our anchorage by going through ‘Königin-Augusta Thal.’

“Thus on the 11th of September, at eight a.m., Payer and Ellinger left the ship, provided with theodolite and barometer, and wandered up the dreary, gently-rising valley. Here Dr. Copeland joined them. A tiring, monotonous road led us up and down the mountains and slopes covered with scanty vegetation, through rough water-rifts, and, lastly, over a small, steep glacier on to the Dolerite-crest of the Sattelberg. A violent north wind made the moderate cold of 14° Fahr. particularly painful to the travellers during their stay on the summit, especially whilst carrying on their work.

“The view westward was unimpeded, and afforded a most interesting glimpse of the interior of the Greenland Fjord, the exploration of which, by means of extensive sledge-journeys (for which the time of year was most favourable), seemed desirable. The opposite view, too, of a broad, smooth, icy sea losing itself in the distance, and the wild, imposing, rocky land to the west and north was, in a purely landscape point of view, most beautiful.

“And where was the so-called coast water? It was a small channel close to the south of Pendulum Island.

QUEEN AUGUSTA VALLEY.]

“Here we observed, as upon all mountains previously, and upon others since, the freedom from snow even on the high-lying lands, and the fact that the snow-fields seemed exclusively to form a distant background to the glaciers; drifts, and the more or less accidental gatherings in clefts, and so forth, of course excepted.

“We left the top after an hour’s observation, and made some coffee on our way down in a rift in the glacier, returning to the ship by a most glorious aurora, after four hours and a half absence.”

So far First Lieutenant Payer’s account. At the same time a boat-journey along the coast towards the south was carried out and the coast surveyed. It is here particularly free from shallows, and the depth so regular that the lead was a sure guide for the approach of the ship to land. The mountains on the shore are from 450 to 550 feet high, and mostly rise rather abruptly. On a tongue of land between Flache Bay and Cape Borlase Warren we found the remains of some Esquimaux huts, and near them some graves, which we inspected, and found all sorts of curious vessels. The graves were old and decayed, and probably no living Esquimaux, had been on the spot for a very long time, Gael Hamkes Bay was so filled with ice, and the blocks and floes so heaped up at the cape, that even with the boat we could not get round, and therefore could not reach Clavering Island. It was often necessary to drag the boat for some nautical miles over the ice-blocks--a gigantic Work, bearing no proportion to the small results to be expected. We therefore contented ourselves with inspecting the immediate neighbourhood more closely, especially the graves. Vegetation was more plentiful than on Pendulum Island; even some grass plats were to be found. We also saw numerous traces of the reindeer in a valley running westward from the cape, and gradually rising to the mountain chain, though we only saw one single living specimen, which, although eagerly hunted, escaped our shots. We returned late in the evening to the Germania.

The report regarding the ice of First Lieutenant Payer, who returned with Dr. Copeland about eleven p.m., was as unfavourable as the description of the above excursion. The pack-ice, as far as one could see to the eastward, was completely blocked. Northwards from the Shannon nothing but ice to be seen. It was clear to all that the time for ship cruising was over, and that we must think of placing our vessel in some secure winter harbour before we were cut off from her, and thus be exposed to certain destruction. The only fit harbour, as already mentioned, was under Sabine Island, the one in which we had anchored for the first time on the 5th of August. Although the captain would willingly have wintered more northwards, about Shannon Island, in order to hold a more advanced position, no more secure position offered itself here; and upon the security of the ship, particularly as the Hansa had failed in reaching the coast, hung the whole success of the expedition. It may here be mentioned that in Arctic regions, when wintering upon a coast, which is not always free from ice even in summer, if circumstances, or, above all, choice permit, the harbour should be chosen opening to the south, having land to the north; also a creek into which falls a glacier stream, as such a harbour is, in the course of the summer, most likely to become free from ice. In any case it must be protected from the heavy pack-ice. The small bay on the south-east side of Sabine Island combined all these advantages in a high degree, but, on account of its little depth, is only safe for ships drawing less than ten feet of water, and which can lie inside the straight line which unites the two land points in the east and west.

As our ship could effect nothing further in a southerly direction, and our anchorage was now insecure from the pressure of the ice and the violent north wind, we steamed out at half-past ten a.m. on the 13th of September, after having made another geological excursion to Sabine Island, to the harbour which, for ten months, was to be our home.

In looking back upon the summer’s enterprise and summing up the results, we had cause, in spite of all failures and disappointed hopes, to be thankful for what we had attained. If we had not succeeded in advancing northwards, and our separation from the Hansa, and her continued non-appearance, limited our investigations in a great measure, the fact remained (the condition _sine quâ non_ of the whole undertaking) that we had reached the coast with the Germania quite safely, and had already made some important discoveries, which, the winter happily over, might result in a rich store of knowledge, however unfavourable the condition of the ice might be. We found ourselves in a field (which, scientifically, was almost unknown), on a coast respecting which the most unreliable and contradictory reports obtained, and nearly all our discoveries and observations seemed new, thus affording important contributions to the knowledge of the Arctic region. Events proved that Captain Koldewey was right in choosing the coast of East Greenland for the basis of Arctic exploration, instead of Dr. Petermann’s suggestion of advancing between Nova-Zembla and Spitzbergen to the North Pole. Captain Koldewey was convinced, and is now more so than ever, that in that quarter any considerable advance by ship to the north would be as impossible as from the north of Spitzbergen. “Under the most favourable circumstances,” so says Captain Koldewey, “we could only make some explorations in Nova-Zembla, and take some hydrographical observations which, however unimportant they might be, would bear no proportion to the cost of the undertaking; whilst on the coast of East Greenland, if even the conjecture of open coast water to the north should not prove true, we might, after breaking through the icy belt, make some important and satisfactory discoveries.”

That the Hansa had not been able to reach the coast was unfortunate, as it weakened our community; but from that circumstance we found ourselves deprived of a larger supply of coal so necessary for our boilers; and not knowing how much fuel we might want during the winter, we were obliged to use the utmost economy, and only employ steam power on urgent occasions. Had the Hansa been with us, nothing would have prevented us, after the first failure, in the attempt to reach the north in the middle of August, from steaming at once southward with the Germania. Our sister ship could have remained at Shannon Island. Eight days would have sufficed us to explore the whole land of Gael Hamkes Bay, which at this time was free from ice, and then return to the north; whilst, in the meantime, the Hansa would have begun and finished the exploration of Shannon Island. The coming spring proved still more what a pity it was that the Hansa did not reach the coast. We were really too feeble, even with our greatest exertions, to master the amount of work. Captain Koldewey is convinced that we might have advanced two degrees further north had he had sufficient men. It is, therefore, unjust to draw the conclusion (as has been done in many parts by inland people) from the events which have taken place, that taking the Hansa as a sister ship was a mistake. To maintain that, because, the Hansa was lost in the ice, she was therefore superfluous, is scarcely a logical conclusion.