Chapter XII: Part 12

Our final day, which rushed upon us before we had steeled ourselves to meet it, was deplorably wet. It seemed as though the climate that had treated us so generously was weeping at the thought of our departure.

We lunched daintily at the home of our good friends the Consul and his wife. Then came the moment when, for the last time, the bells of Bartolome's chariot jingled at the door of the Casa Tranquila, and the neighbours came out to wish us God-speed. None of them came empty-handed. Pepe brought his finest carnations. The Andalusian lady, her entire brood clinging to her matronly skirts, also offered flowers, and the retired gentleman who lived in the lordly mansion across the way hastened to cut his choicest roses.

So with the carriage full of fragrant evidence of good will, we drove off, to pause a moment at Apolonia's door to bid her farewell. At the distribution of odds and ends a rug and a hat had been allotted to Apolonia. And when she seized this opportunity of thanking us for the trifles sent her, Apolonia spoke appreciatively of the rug, but there were tears in her bright eyes when she referred to the _sombrero_. And that makes one wonder how it is that the utterly useless and incongruous gifts are often the most valued. The dear old soul had never worn a hat in her life and certainly never would. The article could be of no possible use to her, but perhaps, like Jess in the _Window in Thrums_ with her mantle, she "would aye ken it was there."

As we turned the corner we got a glimpse of Mr. and Mrs. Pepe carrying a gaily coloured handkerchief containing the discarded suit of the Boy's that had fallen to Pepe's share. Waving the bundle, they indicated that they were already on their way to the tailor's to have the suit altered.

The Angelus was ringing as the _Miramar_ steamed out into the mist. Standing at the stern, we looked back while the rain-clouds gradually blotted out the town, and thought of the little house at Son Espanolet standing empty and forlorn.

We had hoped that when the inevitable hour of parting came we might leave in one of those magnificent sunsets under which we had so often watched the mail-boat start for Barcelona. But though our last sight of Majorca was veiled with rain and tears, we will always remember it as a land of sunshine and of smiles.

INDEX

Afterglow, 251

Alaro, 204
Castle of, 211
Children of, 213

Albufera, the, 173

Alcudia, 169, 175
Port of, 170

Almudaina Palace, 27, 149

_Almudaina, La_, 265

Aloes, 184, 188

Amphitheatre, Roman, 176

Amusements, 277

Andalusia, family from, 22, 332

Andraitx, 111
Port of, 117

Aquarium at Porto Pi, 282

Archduke Luis Salvador, 66, 82

Arraco, 123

Arta, 227
Caves of, 232

Asparagus, wild, 288

Asphodel, 286, 298

Astronomers, British, 55

Banners, Hall of the, 235

Barbarossa, 198

Barcelona, 1

Barnils, Hotel, 5, 6

Barranco, the, 100

Basket-making, 238

Begonias, 240

Bellver, Castle of, 4, 51

Biniaraix, 100, 249

Birthday party, 102

Boot-brushing, 190

Borrow, 49

Breeches, baggy, 64, 159, 164, 282

British Consul at Iviza, 297, 321
" " " Mahon, 200
" influence in Minorca, 186

Bull-fighting, 277

Butterflies, 284

Byng, Admiral, 195

Cabo Blanco, 211

Cabo de Pera, 182, 237

Cabrera, 169, 211

Cabritt and Bassa, 209

Cactus (prickly pear), 21, 122, 124, 160, 189, 205

Cala Fonts, Minorca, 198

Cala Retjada, 238

Calvario at Pollensa, 160

Candelabra, silver, 149

Capdepera, 231, 237

Cape Vermay, 238

Carabineros, 77

Carthusian Monastery, 71

Cas Catala, 109

Castle of Alaro, 211
" " Bellver, 4, 51
" and fortifications, Iviza, 294

Catalans, Cave of the, 218

Cathedral, Palma, 134, 143, 147
" Iviza, 294

Cave at Genova, 282
" of the Holy Well, 139
" " Ramon Lull, 86
" " Santa Ines, Iviza, 316
" Smugglers', 87

Caves of Arta, 232
" the Dragon, Manacor, 217

Chaperonage, 5, 239, 268

Charcoal stove, 45

Charioteer, our, 67, 74, 152, 277, 332

Chopin, 12,70

Christians, early, 115

Christmas Eve, 134
" market, 132

Church of Jesus, Iviza, 324

Ciudadela, Minorca, 181

Clubs, 275

Cobbler and his wife, 21, 333

Coinage, 49

Columns, Queen of the, 236

Commercial travellers, 182, 200

Conquistador, the, 4, 10, 52, 83, 109, 139, 144, 181, 194, 232
" Feast of, 143

Conscripts, 166, 280

Consell, 204

Consul, our friend the, 15, 43, 131, 202, 332

Consumos, 46, 127, 133

Cookery, 11, 33, 65, 93, 113, 156, 171, 206, 227, 236

Coral, 331

Cost of living, 276

Courtship, 268, 304, 318

Customs, 5, 130

Dances, religious, 213

Dancing at San Antonio, Iviza, 317

Delights, Cave of, 218

Deya, 91, 254, 259

Diligence, travelling by, 105, 126, 225, 283, 329

Dogs for hunting, 239

Dress, fashionable, 266

Dress, native, 10, 61, 63, 159, 226, 265, 293, 312

Dromios, the two, 165, 168

Eagles, 71, 211, 260

Electric light, 17, 136, 206

Enciamada, the, 6

Esglayeta, 68

Exile, returned, 330

Fairy, the Good, 245, 250, 252, 255

Ferrer, 3

Firewood, 45

First communicants, 248

Flowers, wild, 99, 121, 141, 192, 220, 240, 258, 285, 286, 298

Fonda de Mallorca, Palma, 5
" " Rande, Arta, 227
" Central, Mahon, 185
" Feminias, Manacor, 216
" Marina, Alcudia, 170, 331
" at Iviza, 291

Fondas, country, 274

Footgear, 10

Fornalutx, 100

French influence, 98

Frogs at Iviza, 311

Furnishing, 17

Gardening, 21, 45

_General Chanzy_, wreck of, 182

Genova, 282

Governesses, 268

Governor of Iviza, 321, 326

Grand Hotel, Palma, 4, 204, 214, 274

Gymnesias, 11

Holy Thursday, procession on, 260

Hoo-poo, 243

Hospederia, 67, 72, 90, 260

Hospitality, 15, 325

Hotel Barnils, Palma, 5, 6
" Grand, 4, 204, 214, 274
" Marina, Soller, 92, 97, 105, 244

Hot months, the, 273

House-hiring, 16

Housekeeping, 23

Ilex, forest of, 239

Inca, 63

Iviza, 289
British Consul at, 297, 321, 322
Castle and fortification, 294
Cathedral, 294
Cave of Santa Ines, 316
Church of Jesus, 324
Cost of living, 327
Courtship, 304, 318
Dress, 293, 302, 308, 312
Driving, 314
Early occupation of, 289
Fonda, 291
Frogs, 311
Hospitality, 325
Market, 293
Museum, 304
New Governor, 321, 326
Noria, 308, 312, 324
Phoenician catacombs, 298
Roman wall and statues, 292
Salinas, 323
San Antonio, 314
San Rafael, 314
Santo Domingo, 295
Small holdings, 308
Wild flowers, 298

King Alphonso IV, 209
" Jaime, el Conquistador, 4, 10, 52, 83, 109, 139, 144, 181, 194, 232
" Jaime II, 149
" Sancho, 69, 84

Kitchen, farm, 103, 258

Language, 48, 121, 196, 200

Laundress, our, 49, 332

Lavender, sweet, 141

Locusts, 284

Lonja, the, 56

Lull, Ramon, 83

Mahon, 184

Mallorquin antiquities, 81, 150, 177, 240
" prices, 7, 43, 44, 112, 155, 168, 170

Manacor, 216

Marketing, 7, 63, 80, 132, 159, 164, 189, 225, 283

Martel, French expert, 219

Mas, Juan, 167

Masked penitents, 263

Military service, 280

Minorca, 181
Athenaeum at Mahon, 189
Barbarossa, 198
Boot-brushing, 190
British Consul, 200
" influence, 186
Byng, Admiral, 195
Cala Fonts, 198
Ciudadela, 181
Commercial travellers, 182, 200
English words, 196
Fonda Central Mahon, 185
Market at Mahon, 189
San Luis, 195
Talyots, 190
Taula, 192
Villa Carlos, 198
Whitewash, 185
Wreck of the _General Chanzy_, 182

Miramar, 75

Monastery, Carthusian, 71

Montjuich, 3

Moorish oppression, 144
" refugees, 232
" tower, 173

Mosquitoes, 118, 285

Music, 31, 102, 140, 145

Navidad, 128

Nightingales, 245

Noria, 174, 308, 312, 324

Offerings, votive, 162, 297

Olive-oil factory, 103

Operations in church, exciting, 220

Orchis, fly, 220, 286

Our Lady of the Peak, 164
" " " Refuge, 209

Palma de Mallorca, 4
Almudaina, 27, 149
Body of Jaime II, 150
Cathedral, 134, 143
" treasures of, 147
Consumeros, 46
Customs office, 5
First impression, 4
Grand Hotel, 4, 204, 214, 274
Hotel Barnils, 5, 6
Lonja, the, 56
Markets, 7, 132
Port, 27
Post-office, 129
San Francisco, church of, 85
Social life, 266
Tavern at the port, 32

Palmettos, 160, 238

Palm Sunday, 245

Peak, Our Lady of the, 164

Penitents, masked, 263

Phoenician catacombs, Iviza, 298
" village, 239

Pigs, 134, 181, 183

Plants, the rarer Balearic, 287

Plum pudding, 130

Pollensa, 155
Port of, 157
Town hall of, 165

Port of Palma, 27

Porto Pi, 4, 15, 273, 276, 285

Post-office, Palma, 129

Prices, Majorcan, 7, 43, 44, 112, 155, 168, 170

Puebla, La, 154, 329

Puerto Cristo, 217

Puig Mayor, 100, 105, 244, 245, 249, 256, 257

Queen of the Columns, 236
" of Spain, birthday of, 14

Rain, 10, 92, 203, 271

Ramon Lull, 83

Refuge, Our Lady of the, 209

Refugees, Moorish, 232

Relics, sacred, 147

Rent, house, 19, 250

Road-mending, 252

Roman amphitheatre, 176
" gateway, 169
" graves, 177
" statues, Iviza, 292

Salinas, 323

Saloon accommodation, first, 2, 194, 197
" " second, 180, 194, 197, 202

Salt, shipping, 323

Samphire, 207

San Antonio, Iviza, 314

San Francisco, church of, 85

San Lorenzo, 226

San Luis, Minorca, 195

San Rafael, Iviza, 314

San Roch, Feast of, 213

Sand, George, 12, 70

Santa Catalina, 15, 18

Santa Maria, 62

Santo Domingo, Iviza, 295

Scots visitors, 278

Secoma, 125

Sereno, the, 12

Servants, 276

Shells, 172, 282, 331

Smugglers' cave, 87

Snow, 271

Social life, 266

Soller, 94, 243
Port of, 96, 257
Fiesta at, 283

Son Espanolet, 15, 18, 46, 166, 273

Son Mas, Andraitx, 115

Son Moragues, 82

Son Puigdorfila, 138

Son Rapina, 138, 273

Son Servera, 230

Sponges, 282

Squire and Lady, 204, 272, 278

Steamer _Ancona_ of Leith, 30
_Balear_, 1, 3
_Cataluna_, 321
_Isla de Menorca_, 197
_Lulio_, 290
_Miramar_, 34, 333
_Monte Toro_, 180
_Vicente Sanz_, 194
_Villa de Soller_, 97

Sunshine, 270

Talyots, 190

Taula, 192

Taylor, Bayard, 69

Tea, 6, 81, 241

Temple, the white, 76

Terreno, the, 15, 51, 273, 276

Tobacco, 32, 119, 317

Torrentes, 94, 117, 140, 249

Tourists, 28, 281

Tower, Moorish, 173

Town Hall, Pollensa, 165

Train, travelling by, 61, 153

Travellers, commercial, 182

Travelling by diligence, 105, 108, 126, 154

Valldemosa, 69, 80, 260

Vegetable man, our, 25, 50

Vermay, Cape, 238

Vigilante, our, 39, 277

Villa Carlos, Minorca, 198

Votive offerings, 162, 297

Wells, chain (norias), 174, 308, 312, 324

Whitewash, 185

Wild asparagus, 288

Wild flowers, 99, 121, 141, 192, 220, 240, 258, 285, 286, 298

Wind at Minorca, 191

Windmills, 122

Wine shop, 65, 112

Winter climate, ideal, 270

Yachting, 275

Yacht of the Czar, 28

The Gresham Press UNWIN BROTHERS, LIMITED, WOKING AND LONDON.

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Transcriber's note:

Times are shown using a period notation e.g. 7.40, these have been left unchanged.

Changed quatro to cuatro in the second repetition of "Onza reals, _cuatro_ centims, dos centims". (Ch. IV Housekeeping.)

Changed jewelry to jewellery in "conjunction with handsome _jewelry_" for consistency with the rest of the book. (Ch. VI THE FAIR AT INCA.)

_En el nombre del Padre, y del Higo, y del Espiritu Santo_ was left unchanged, but this is normally written _En el nombre del Padre, y del =Hijo=, y del Espiritu Santo_. (Ch. VI THE FAIR AT INCA.)

Changed biscochos to bizcochos in "crisply toasted _bizcochos_". (Ch. VIII MIRAMAR.)

Changed 'were' to 'was' in "Even in its natural state it _was_ difficult". (Ch. IX SOLLER.)

"made his money in Buenos Ayres" was left unchanged, although more commonly known as Buenos Aires. (Ch. XV THE PORT OF ALCUDIA.)

"Muchos gracias, senor." was left unchanged, but this is correctly said - "Muchas gracias, senor." (Ch. XXVI AN IVIZAN SABBATH.)

There is quite a lot of inconsistency in the book with words that are hyphenated or spaced and/or joined. These have been left unchanged.

Likewise, accents and indication of foreign words (using italics) are inconsistent. These have been corrected for placenames without comment; all others have been left unchanged.