Chapter I: Front Matter

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THE CHARM OF IRELAND

_See page 356_]

THE CHARM OF IRELAND

by

BURTON E. STEVENSON

Author of "The Spell of Holland," "The Mystery of the Boule Cabinet," etc.

With Many Illustrations from Photographs by the Author

New York Dodd, Mead and Company 1914

Copyright, 1914 By Dodd, Mead & Company

_TO_

J. I. B.

_THIS BOOK_

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE
I DUBLIN'S SATURDAY NIGHT 1
II LIGHTS AND SHADOWS OF AN ANCIENT CAPITAL 9
III THE ART OF ANCIENT ERIN 26
IV ON THE TRAIL OF THE SHAMROCK 42
V THE COUNTRY OF ST. KEVIN 59
VI DROGHEDA THE DREARY 85
VII HOLY CROSS AND CASHEL OF THE KINGS 97
VIII ADVENTURES AT BLARNEY 113
IX CUSHLA MA CHREE 128
X THE SHRINE OF ST. FIN BARRE 139
XI A TRIP THROUGH WONDERLAND 153
XII THE "GRAND TOUR" 177
XIII ROUND ABOUT KILLARNEY 192
XIV O'CONNELL, JOURNEYMAN TAILOR 203
XV THE RUINS AT ADARE 224
XVI "WHERE THE RIVER SHANNON FLOWS" 242
XVII LISSOY AND CLONMACNOISE 265
XVIII GALWAY OF THE TRIBES 292
XIX IAR CONNAUGHT 314
XX JOYCE'S COUNTRY 339
XXI THE REAL IRISH PROBLEM 358
XXII THE TRIALS OF A CONDUCTOR 375
XXIII THE LEACHT-CON-MIC-RUIS 398
XXIV THE WINDING BANKS OF ERNE 415
XXV THE MAIDEN CITY 438
XXVI THE GRAINAN OF AILEACH 458
XXVII THE BRIDGE OF THE GIANTS 472
XXVIII THE GLENS OF ANTRIM 485
XXIX BELFAST 503
XXX THE GRAVE OF ST. PATRICK 519
XXXI THE VALLEY OF THE BOYNE 534
XXXII THE END OF THE PILGRIMAGE 559
INDEX 567

ILLUSTRATIONS

Two Tiny Connaught Toilers _Frontispiece_
FACING
PAGE
Dublin Castle 10
O'Connell, alias Sackville, Street, Dublin 10
Ruins of St. Mary's Abbey Howth 22
The Evolution of the Jaunting Car 28
The Cross of Cong 40
The Shrine of St. Patrick's Bell 40
Glendalough and the Ruins of St. Kevin's Churches 66
The Road to St. Kevin's Seat 74
The First of St. Kevin's Churches 74
The Round Tower, Clondalkin 88
St. Lawrence's Gate, Drogheda 88
Holy Cross Abbey, from the Cloisters 100
The Mighty Ruins on the Rock of Cashel 100
Cashel of the Kings 104
Blarney Castle 116
A Cottage at Inchigeelagh 144
The Shrine of St. Fin Barre 144
The Bay of Glengarriff 164
The Upper Lake, Killarney, from the Kenmare Road 164
Old Weir Bridge, Killarney 188
The Meeting of the Waters 188
Ross Castle, Killarney 188
Muckross Abbey, Killarney 194
The Cloister at Muckross Abbey 194
The Choir of the Abbey at Adare 232
The Castle of the Geraldines, Adare 232
The Shannon, near World's End 248
St. Senan's Well 248
The Bridge at Killaloe 258
The Oratory at Killaloe 258
Entrance to St. Molua's Oratory 262
A Fisherman's Home 262
The Choir of the Abbey at Athenry 270
A Cottage at Athenry 270
The Goldsmith Rectory at Lissoy 276
The "Three Jolly Pigeons" 276
On the Road to Clonmacnoise 288
St. Kieran's Cathair, Clonmacnoise 288
The Market at Galway 296
"Ould Saftie" 296
The Claddagh, Galway 300
A Claddagh Home 300
A Galway Vista 302
The Memorial of a Spartan Father 302
The Connemara Marble Quarry 322
A Connemara Home 322
In "Joyce's Country" 344
On the Shore of Lough Mask 344
The Cloister at Cong Abbey 348
The Monks' Fishing-house, Cong Abbey 348
The Turf-Cutters 356
A Girl of "Joyce's Country" 356
Cromlechs at Carrowmore 392
Sligo Abbey from the Cloister 400
The Leacht-Con-Mic-Ruis 400
A Ruin on the Shore of Lough Gill 402
The Last Fragment of an Ancient Stronghold 402
A Cashel near Dromahair 408
St. Patrick's Holy Well 408
The Coast at Bundoran 416
The Home of "Colleen Bawn" 416
Birthplace of William Allingham 430
Castle Donegal 430
The Walls of Derry 466
The Grainan of Aileach 466
The "Giant's Head," near Portrush 480
The Ruins of Dunluce Castle 480
The Giant's Causeway 482
The Cliffs beyond the Causeway 482
The Grave of Ossian 496
An Antrim Landscape 496
A Humble Home in Antrim 498
The Old Jail at Cushendall 498
The City Hall, Belfast 516
High Street, Belfast 516
The Grave of Patrick, Brigid and Columba 522
The Old Cross at Downpatrick 522
The Great Rath at Downpatrick 526
The Inner and Outer Circles 526
The Central Mound 526
The Eye Well at Struell 528
The Well of Sins at Struell 528
The Birthplace of John Boyle O'Reilly 540
Entrance to Dowth Tumulus 540
Entrance to Newgrange 546
The Ruins of Mellifont 546
The Round Tower, Monasterboice 554
The High Cross, Monasterboice 554
Muiredach's Cross, Monasterboice 556

THE CHARM OF IRELAND