Chapter II: Part II: Motoring Through the Golden Age

I. THE NEW PLAN 143
II. THE NEW START 146
III. INTO THE JURAS 151
IV. A POEM IN ARCHITECTURE 160
V. VIENNE IN THE RAIN 164
VI. THE CHATEAU I DID NOT RENT 168
VII. AN HOUR AT ORANGE 172
VIII. THE ROAD TO PONT DU GARD 178
IX. THE LUXURY OF NIMES 182
X. THROUGH THE CEVENNES 186
XI. INTO THE AUVERGNE 193
XII. LE PUY 196
XIII. THE CENTER OF FRANCE 200
XIV. BETWEEN BILLY AND BESSEY 205
XV. THE HAUTE-LOIRE 209
XVI. NEARING PARIS 213
XVII. SUMMING UP THE COST 219
XVIII. THE ROAD TO CHERBOURG 223
XIX. BAYEUX, CAEN, AND ROUEN 228
XX. WE COME TO GRIEF 234
XXI. THE DAMAGE REPAIRED--BEAUVAIS AND COMPIEGNE 238
XXII. FROM PARIS TO CHARTRES AND CHATEAUDUN 244
XXIII. WE REACH TOURS 250
XXIV. CHINON, WHERE JOAN MET THE KING, AND AZAY 255
XXV. TOURS 260
XXVI. CHENONCEAUX AND AMBOISE 264
XXVII. CHAMBORD AND CLERY 271
XXVIII. ORLEANS 278
XXIX. FONTAINEBLEAU 283
XXX. RHEIMS 288
XXXI. ALONG THE MARNE 295
XXXII. DOMREMY 299
XXXIII. STRASSBURG AND THE BLACK FOREST 306
XXXIV. A LAND WHERE STORKS LIVE 313
XXXV. BACK TO VEVEY 316
XXXVI. THE GREAT UPHEAVAL 320
XXXVII. THE LONG TRAIL ENDS 336

ILLUSTRATIONS

"THE NORMANDY ROAD TO CHERBOURG IS AS WONDERFUL AS ANY IN
FRANCE" _Frontispiece_

"WHERE ROADS BRANCH OR CROSS THERE ARE SIGNBOARDS....
YOU CAN'T ASK A MAN 'QUEL EST LE CHEMIN' FOR ANYWHERE WHEN
YOU ARE IN FRONT OF A SIGNBOARD WHICH IS SHOUTING THE
INFORMATION" _Facing p._ 46

MARK TWAIN'S "LOST NAPOLEON"--"THE COLOSSAL SLEEPING FIGURE
IN ITS SUPREME REPOSE" 80

MARCHE VEVEY--"IN EACH TOWN THERE IS AN OPEN SQUARE, WHICH
TWICE A WEEK IS PICTURESQUELY CROWDED" 108

"YOU CAN SEE SON LOUP FROM THE HOTEL STEPS IN VEVEY, BUT IT
TAKES HOURS TO GET TO IT" 134

DESCENDING THE JURAS 162

THE TOMB OF MARGARET OF AUSTRIA, CHURCH OF BROU 162

"THROUGH HILLSIDE VILLAGES WHERE NEVER A STONE HAD BEEN
MOVED, I THINK, IN CENTURIES" 214

BIRTHPLACE OF JOAN OF ARC 308

STRASSBURG, SHOWING THE CATHEDRAL 308