Chapter IV (4)

In keeping the direct line of road the traveller leaves behind him many antiquities worthy of attention; Mr. Williams’s account of which, from his being a resident near the spot, appearing to be the best, as well as containing a most full and interesting description of the ancient Welsh or British games, I shall transcribe: at the same time strongly recommending the work to such as wish to take a minute survey of this county.—His route is reversed, “but as most strangers will, no doubt, proceed from Conway to Bangor, it shall be my endeavour to act as their guide, and mention some particulars which are worth their attention along this road. For the first two miles he will proceed up hill, until he comes to an opening between two rocks, near a place called Sychnant, when all of a sudden a most magnificent scene presents itself. From hence he commands a full view of Beaumaris Bay, generally covered with a number of small vessels; the Puffin, or Priestholm island, the village of Llangoed, the town of Beaumaris, Baron-hill, and the Friars; the former, the beautiful seat of the Lord Viscount Bulkeley, and the latter, that of his brother, Sir Robert Williams, Bart. M.P. all on the Anglesea shore. On the Caernarvonshire side, Bangor and Penrhyn Castle; and last, though not least, the huge Penmaen-mawr, protruding its rocky front into the sea, forming a natural barrier in such manner (to all appearance) as to cut off every communication this way, and render any farther progress impracticable. The art of man has, however, at length conquered these difficulties, and surmounted every obstacle, for about the year 1772, an excellent road was formed along the edge of this once tremendous and dangerous precipice, under the direction of the ingenious Mr. Sylvester, parliament having generously voted a grant for this purpose. Prior to this event several fatal accidents had happened here; and one or two nearly miraculous escapes are recorded in Pennant’s tour through North Wales. At that time no carriage passed this way, and consequently all the travelling was either on foot or on horseback. Dean Swift was generally a pedestrian, and in one of his rambles he left these lines, written on a pane of glass, at the old inn (now a farm-house) near this mountain:—

‘Before you venture here to pass,
Take a good refreshing glass;
And when you are over take another,
Your fainting spirits to recover.’

“Before the traveller descends from the top of Sychnant, just mentioned, to the little vale Dwygyfylchi, he should deviate a little to the left, in order to examine some antiquities, near a place called Gwddw Glâs, in that parish. Here are several circles of stones, of various diameters, and large Carneddau, viz. barrows, or tumuli; supposed to have been memorials of those heroes who fell in the field of battle, as cistfaens, or stone coffins, are frequently discovered in some of these circular heaps or collection of stones. The principal circle now consists of ten upright stones, at unequal distances: the largest is eight feet three inches high; on the ground is another, eleven feet two inches; the diameter of this circle is eighty feet.

“Near this are four other smaller circles; in the centre of one is a flat stone, the remains of a cromlech, from which it may be conjectured that it was a Druidical or bardic circle. About a quarter of a mile from these is a large circle, composed of small stones, and near it another of large stones; and not far from these another circle, composed of smaller stones.

“Near the last is a huge upright stone, called Maen y Campiau, or the stone of games; and nearly contiguous is a carnedd, and a small circle of twelve stones; adjoining to these are also a great number of what are now called in this country Cyttiau Gwyddelod (woodmen or Irishmen’s huts), being the foundations of small buildings, made of round stones; and the vestige of a road is still visible in a direction from hence towards the Conway. Some of these last might probably have been the summer habitations or encampment of a small detachment of the Roman legion, stationed at Caer Rhun, or Conovium, for the purpose of protecting their cattle.

“Having mentioned Maen y Campiau, it may not perhaps be considered a digression to enumerate the twenty-four Welsh or British games, of which there were ten _Gurolgampau_, or manly games; viz. 1. to lift up great weights; 2. running; 3. leaping; 4. swimming; 5. wrestling; 6. riding. These six were styled Tadogion, viz. pertaining to fathers, or grown up persons, and required only bodily strength and activity; this last, Marchogaeth, is supposed to have included charioteering, or the skilful driving and management of different kinds of carriages. The other four were, 1. archery; 2. playing with the sword and buckler; 3. playing with the Cledda deuddwrn, or two-handed sword; 4. Chwarau ffoun ddwybig, or playing with the two-end staff or spear. Next to these were the ten _Mabolgampau_, or those more peculiarly adapted to young men; viz. 1. coursing; 2. fishing; 3. fowling; the remaining seven were of the domestic kind; 1. Barddoniaeth, or poetical composition; 2. Chwareu’r Delyn, or playing upon the harp; 3. reading Welsh; 4. singing with the harp; 5. singing between three or four, most probably in alternate stanzas, or Pennillion; 6. drawing or painting, particularly coats of arms; 7. heraldry. After these were four _Gogampiau_, or minor games; viz. 1. Chwarau Gwydd-bwyll, a game similar to that of draughts; 2. Chwarau Tawl-Bwrdd, probably back-gammon, as this word is supposed to be derived from the Welsh language; viz. Back, little, and Cammawn, or Gammon, Battle; and Tawl-Burdd means the toss on the table; 3. Chwarau Ffristeal, or the game of the dice-box; in what manner it was played is not known at present; 4. Cyweiraw Telyn, or the tuning of the harp.

“After visiting these circles, the traveller may either proceed to the top of Pen-maen-mawr, or descend to the high road, near Dygyfylchi Church, not far from which, just at the foot of Pen-maen-bach, is Pendyffryn, the seat of T. Smith, Esq. In the clefts of the rocks, above the turnpike-gate, near Pen-maen-mawr, grows the Cratægus Aria, or white beam-tree. Mr. Pennant observes, the Swiss procure a good kind of ardent spirit from the berries. The summit of this mountain seems to have been fortified by two or three walls, one within the other; and there are still visible the remains of a great number of huts, or small buildings, most probably at one time the habitations of soldiers; it was, no doubt, a strong military post, and is supposed to have been made use of by the Britons and Romans. The Roman road from Segontium to Conovium must have passed near it, probably on the south side; and this high mountain, so conspicuous and so easily distinguished at a distance, formed a kind of link, no doubt, in the military chain of communication between this county and Denbighshire, as it is very visible from Dinorwick (now called Pen Dinas), a Roman encampment in the parish of Llandeiniolen, near Caernarvon on the west, and from many fortified eminences in the other county, on the east. The usual signals in ancient times were fires by night, and a particular kind of flag by day. Having examined the immense ruins of Braich y Dinas, we now proceed along the high road, through the parish of Llanfairfechan; and leaving that small church on an eminence, a little to the left of the road, and on the right, Brynn y Neuadd, an old neglected family seat, at one time the property of Humphrey Roberts, Esq. and afterwards conveyed to the Wynnes of Plas Newydd, near Denbigh, by the marriage of his daughter to a son of that family: we soon pass Gorddinog,” &c.—_Williams_.

Pursuing a good turnpike-road from Mrs. Crawley’s, we presently came in sight of the towers of

CONWAY CASTLE,

standing on a rock, so picturesquely alluded to in the Bard of Gray.

“On a rock, whose haughty brow
Frown’d o’er old Conway’s foaming flood,
Robed in a sable garb of woe,
With haggard eyes the poet stood.”

[Picture: Conwy Bridge & Castle]

The castle, built by Edward I., is a magnificent fortress, in the form of a parallelogram.

An air of proud sublimity, united with singular wildness, characterises the place. The evening was far advanced, and part of the ruins were shining with the purple glow of the setting sun, whose remaining features stood in darkened majesty, when we entered this monument of desolation. Passing over a plank, originally the site of the drawbridge, we came into the outward court, strongly defended with battlements; from thence we examined the grand entrance of the castle, with its several projecting abutments, similar in style to those of Caernarvon. On the south side of the court is the grand hall, measuring an hundred and thirty feet by thirty-two, with eight light Gothic arches, five of which are still in good condition. At one end is the chapel, with a large window, a beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture. It was founded on the solid rock, by Edward I., in the year 1284; the walls are from eleven to fifteen feet thick: all the towers are defended by small round turrets, projecting two or three feet over, with a regular communication round the whole castle by galleries, on the same plan as at Caernarvon. The steps are decayed and broken, and the looseness of the stones rendered a footing very insecure; but, impelled by an irresistible curiosity, we ascended the most perfect tower, and an extensive prospect presented itself to our view. The foundation of one of the principal towers, looking towards a small river, which here joins the Conway, has lately given way, and torn down with it part of the building; the remainder now hangs in an extraordinary manner. The whole town is enclosed with strong walls, and defended by a number of towers, which communicate with the castle by a gallery; there are likewise several gateways at certain distances.

The ancient church next attracted our attention, but did not detain us long, as the monuments for the Wynnes are the only things worthy of inspection, except the following inscription, which is engraved on a flat stone, in the nave of the church: “Here lyeth the body of Nicholas Hookes, of Conway, Gent. who was the 41st child of his father, William Hookes, Esq. by Alice, his wife, and father of 27 children; who died the 20th day of March, 1637.” Few districts in the world can, perhaps, produce a record similar to the preceding.

From thence we surveyed the remains of the college, which in the reign of King Edward I. was intended for the instruction of youth. It is now in complete ruins: the workmanship curious, with several sculptured arms. In this town is an ancient house, built in the form of a quadrangle, by the Wynnes, in the time of Queen Elizabeth, now inhabited by poor families. The house is adorned after the fantastical fashion of the times in which it was erected; the roof is singularly carved, and the front decorated with the arms of England, with several curious crests, birds, and beasts: it bears the date of the year 1585. The arms of Elizabeth are carved over the door, fronting the street.

The river Conway has been celebrated from the earliest period of British history for its pearl fishery. Pliny asserts that Julius Cæsar dedicated to Venus Genetrix, in her temple at Rome, a breast-plate, set with British pearls; and other authorities go so far as to assign the desire to get possession of these jewels, as one of the reasons of his invading the British isles. The shell in which they are found is called the pearl muscle, and is the same which by Linnæus is termed Mya Margaritifera.

The fish, which generate these concretions, are considered in a sickly state; and it is said that on their being squeezed, they can and will eject them, which they occasionally do spontaneously on the sands. I am given to understand that a very considerable trade is carried on by an individual, very snugly, at this very day, in pearls collected from the Conway and adjacent coast. Some years ago Sir Robert Vaughan appeared at court with a button and loop in his hat, set with pearls from the Conway; and Mr. Edward Llwyd says, that the pearls found here are as large and as well coloured as any in Great Britain.

“Immediately at the foot of the castle,” says a recent traveller, {243} “a suspension bridge is thrown over the previously dangerous ferry, in the erection of which great taste has been exhibited. Castellated towers support the chains, and where the road enters the town a toll-house, in the shape of a dilapidated tower, has been erected, which perfectly harmonizes with the view around it, and taken altogether, the bridge seems to be the draw-bridge of the castle, and does not detract from the antique grandeur of the scene. Mr. Telford is the architect of this, as well as of the Menai Bridge; and though it possesses nothing of the immense proportions, it is equally elegant and well adapted to its situation.”

Edward the First made this a free borough. It is now governed by one alderman, a recorder, coroner, water-bailiff, and two serjeants-at-mace, chosen annually, and is a contributory borough with Caernarvon, Pwllheli, Nevin, and Criccaeth, in returning a member to parliament. Its market is on Friday.

The usual route, and the one which we intended to pursue, laying by St. Asaph and Chester, we determined first to explore some of the beauties of the vale of Conway; and with this object in view, took the road leading to Llanwrst: it possesses the charming varieties of wood, water, and a richly cultivated country, backed by mountain scenery. We soon reached Caer Rhun, the site of the ancient Conovium of the Romans, where the tenth legion were stationed. The late Rev. Hugh Davies Griffith, vicar of the parish, and a gentleman well known for his antiquarian researches, traced out here the remains of a Roman pottery: many utensils of various sorts had previously been found, mostly imperfect, some well designed and very curious. Amongst other things found here, was a small brazen circular shield, of curious workmanship, embossed, a little more than a foot in diameter, and with a projecting pike of wrought iron, of about four inches and a half, placed in the centre; it had circles of brass studs, and appeared to have been lined with leather and stuffed with hair. Numerous Roman coins were likewise found, and near this is a hill, called Myndd Caer Leon, or the _Hill of the Legion_. Mr. Williams says, “This legion was denominated Antoniana Augusta. The XXth, stationed at Chester (Caer Lleon Gawr, or Caer Lleion ar Ddyfrdwy), was distinguished by the name of Vicessima Victrix: and the Second Legion, stationed at Caer Leon, in Monmouthshire, or Caer Lleon ar Wysc, was known by the title of Augusta Britannica. There was, no doubt, a Roman road from hence to Segontium, on the west, and to Varium or Bodvarri and Caerwys on the east, and another probably through Dolyddelen, to Sarn Helen and Tommen y Mur, in Merionethshire; Pen y street, Dolgelly, Castell y Beri, near Tal y Llynn, to Penal, near Machynlleth, where there was a Roman encampment, and where very considerable remains were discovered.”

The next object worthy of attention is Rhaiadr Mawr, or the Great Waterfall, about seven miles from Conway; Mr. Bingley’s account of which is so correct and spirited, that I shall give it verbatim:—

“I ascended along a winding path, which, after about a quarter of an
hour’s walk, conducted me to the bed of the river, near the station
from whence it was to be seen to the greatest advantage. The water,
from the late dry weather, was very inconsiderable; still, however,
the scene was highly picturesque. From the upper part two streams
descended at some distance from each other. The range of rock, down
which the water was thrown, was very wide and extremely rude, being
formed in horizontal ledges, into deep clefts and enormous chasms.
On the various lodgments of the rocks were numerous pendant shrubs.
The dark shades of the clefts, and the irregular brilliancy of the
prominent features of the scene, from the reflected rays of the sun,
contrasted again with the foaming of the water, were truly grand.
The colours of the rock, which were every where also very dark, were
rich and highly varied. The streams united a little above the middle
of the fall: they rushed from thence in foam over the rocks, and,
from the deep shelvings, in many places the water was entirely hidden
from me below. In addition to this, nearly every different stratum
of rock threw it into a fresh direction. In the whole scene there
was the utmost irregularity. On the right of the cataract the
enclosing rocks were nearly perpendicular, very lofty, and crowned
with pendant foliage. Those on the left were very high and towering,
adorned on the lodgments with grass and ferns. I should have made a
drawing of this cataract, had it been possible to have expressed it
with any justice on an octavo plate; this, however, was altogether
impossible. The above description is expressed in terms infinitely
too feeble to give any correct idea of the scene. This waterfall
appeared to me by much the most grand and picturesque of any that I
have seen in North Wales.

“In descending to the road, I had an extensive view along the whole
vale of Conway. It appeared from this eminence to be much varied,
and on the whole very beautiful.”

Besides this, many other waterfalls and cascades, along this charming river, will amply repay this digression, and entice the tourist forward to its junction with the Lledr and Machno. Near Llanwrst, Gwydir-house and woods, and at that place the church, and the famous bridge built by Inigo Jones, will engage his attention. Beyond the vale is beautiful and romantic, far exceeding my powers of description; all that wood, water, and the most rugged rocks and picturesque mountain scenery can do to delight the lovers of nature, heightened by the relief of a highly cultivated country, interspersed with gentlemen’s seats, frequently breaking on the view, are here amply afforded them. Proceeding up the vale, and through Gwydir woods, you reach Bettws y Coed; thence to the new iron Waterloo Bridge over the Conway, on the great Irish road, visit the falls of the Conway and Machno, return to Bettws, proceed up the Lligwy to view the Rhaidar y Wennol, or Cataract of the Swallow, which, when it possesses its customary body of water, is truly tremendous. In going from hence to the excellent inn at Capel Curig, by making a circuit of about four or five miles to the southward, you may visit Dolwyddelan Castle, the residence of Meredith ap Jevan, before mentioned in the account of Llyn. From Capel Curig, proceeding towards Bangor, till the road nearly reaches the river Ogwen, you may with labour and difficulty trace the old Roman road, from Segontium to Conovium, or, without any risk of satiety, retread your steps by Llanwrst to Conway.

The trade of Conway consists in the exportation of slate and copper from the Llandidno mines, from whence the finest specimens of Malachite copper is brought. The town and castle of Conway are seen to great advantage in crossing the river, which is here about half a mile over, and at high water washes the walls of that massy ruin: in the middle of the channel is a small rocky island. We observed from this situation the two castles called Bodscallan and Dyganwy; the small remains of the latter stand on a high rock above the river. The former is a beautiful seat of the Mostyns.

Crossing the ferry we determined on exploring the Criddin, a Commot, or Hundred of Caernarvonshire, at the extremity of which is that noted landmark, the Great Orme’s Head. This commot is supposed to contain some of the best arable and meadow land in this part of the principality; the shores and cliffs likewise afford excellent limestone, and pebbles for paving; both of which are shipped in large quantities for Liverpool and other markets. Dyganwy, or Dinas Gonwy, _The Fort of the Conway_, was once the residence of Maelgwyn Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales, who here held his court. The following anecdote of which, as connected with Taliesin, the British Bard, I shall give the heads of from Mr. Bingley:

“Gwyddno Garanhir, brother of Maelgwyn, who likewise resided in the
neighbourhood, had near his residence a weir, called Gored Wyddno,
_Gwyddno’s Weir_, which is even yet known by the same name, and
belongs to Sir Thomas Mostyn, as owner of the house of Bodscallon.
Elphin, the son of Gwyddno, was an extravagant youth; and at one time
he had so greatly exhausted his finances, that he was compelled, as a
temporary relief, to ask his father the benefit of the weir for a
single night. The request was complied with, but not a single fish
was caught. {248} A leathern basket was however taken up, which, on
examination, was found to contain a child. This was an unfortunate
circumstance to one so much in want of a successful tide. Elphin
had, however, the humanity to direct that the child should be taken
care of, and that no expense should be spared in his education. The
youth, who was named Taliesin, was introduced by Elphin at his
father’s court; and his first step towards fame was in reciting there
a poem containing the history of his life, called Hanes Taliesin.
Maelgwyn Gwynedd was greatly surprised at his talent, and himself
became afterwards his patron. Some time after this a dispute took
place at Diganwy, betwixt Elphin and his father, of so serious a
nature, as to cause the former to be thrown into prison. His
attentions to Taliesin now proved of the utmost importance to him.
The bard addressed to the prince a poem on his patron, which excited
his commiseration, and caused him to issue an immediate order for
Elphin’s release. Taliesin continued to receive, throughout the
whole of his life, the attentions, the admirations, and the applause
which his talents justly merited; and after his death he was honoured
with the appellation of _The Prince of the British Bards_.”

Gloddaith woods particularly, and most part of this small district, afford considerable amusement to the botanist; as will the libraries of Sir Thomas Mostyn, Bart. at Gloddaith and Bodysgallen, to the antiquarian and the historian. The former of these seats was built in the reign of Queen Elizabeth; since which period both mansion and furniture have experienced but trifling alterations.

The tremendous precipice on the west side of the Ormshead is worthy of a visit. The sea view is very extensive, and generally enlivened by the passing of Liverpool shipping; you likewise command a view of the Isle of Man, and occasionally views of the Irish, Lancashire, and the distant haze of the Scottish coast. The sea birds frequent these cliffs and shores in great abundance, more particularly gulls, razor-bills, guillemots, corvorants, herons, and the peregrine falcon; the latter of which, in the days of falconry, was held in such high estimation, that the celebrated Lord Burleigh sent a letter of thanks for a present of a cast of hawks from this place to an ancestor of Sir Thomas Mostyn’s. Unprotected by any shelter, on the summit of the high promontory, stands the small church of Llandudno, but little famous for any thing but its singular situation, and its service as a beacon. Proceeding along the mail-road, with the sea on our left, and low rocks on our right, nothing particular attracted our attention, till in descending a hill about two miles from the neat bathing-town of

ABERGELE,

we observed, on our right, two immense caverns, about half way up the mountain; they are called Cavern-arogo, and run four or five hundred yards into the ground; but their real extent has never been ascertained with accuracy. From these mountains vast quantities of lime are shipped for Liverpool and many parts of England.

Abergele, situate on the edge of Rhuddlan Marsh, is a small neat town of one street, resorted to in the summer season for bathing. The sands afford excellent walking; in the evening we lingered on the beach for a considerable time, enjoying the calm but cheerful beauty of nature, and inhaling the pure sea-breeze—for

. . . “The wind was hush’d;
And to the beach each slowly-lifted wave,
Creeping with silver-curl, just kiss’d the shore,
And slept in silence.”

MASON’S GARDEN.

With pleasure mixed with reverential awe, we trod Rhuddlan Marsh, so celebrated in the annals of history. Here the ill-fated Richard II. was betrayed into the hands of Bolingbroke, and taken prisoner to Flint: here Offa, King of Mercia, met his untimely death: here the Welsh, under the command of Caradoc, in the year 795, were defeated in a conflict with the Saxons, and their leader slain in the action. This memorable and tragic event is handed down to posterity by an ancient celebrated and affecting ballad, called Morva Rhuddlan, or the Marsh of Rhuddlan, composed by the bards on the death of Prince Caradoc.

The ground we trod, connected with so many events, revived in our minds the memory of past ages; a series of historical events came to our recollection; events that are now so distant, as almost to be obliterated from the page of history. Passing over a bridge of two arches, thrown over the river Clwyd, we entered

RHUDDLAN,

once the largest and most respectable town in North Wales. Walking over the ruins of the castle, in which Edward I. kept three Christmases, I recurred, by a natural association of ideas, to the times when the parliament-house, the halls, and courts, echoed with the voices of those, who have been long since swept from the earth by the unerring hand of death. One solitary Gothic window is now only remaining to distinguish the old parliament-house, where King Edward the First instituted that famous code of laws, under the title of the statute of Rhuddlan, from a neighbouring barn: and what once contained the parliament of England, now contains nothing but bark for the supply of a tan-yard.

The old castle is built of red stone; it consists of a square area, strongly fortified with a wall. This court we entered through the grand gateway, between two round towers: the opposite side corresponds. The whole is encircled by a deep entrenchment faced with stone on the river side, with two square towers, one of which still remains.

“The Bishop of St. Asaph,” says Mr. Evans, “distributes among the farmers of the parish of Rhyddlan, five guineas for the best crop of turnips; and three guineas for the best crop of wheat upon a fallow, manured only with lime compost. All the competitors partake of a feast on the day of decision; and the victors, beside their premiums, have the honourable distinction of being crowned with the garland of Ceres, by some of the ladies present.” This stimulus has had great effect in exciting a spirit of improvement.

The road from hence to

ST. ASAPH,

affords a most rich and beautiful walk, extending along the celebrated vale of Clwyd. This rich tract of land, called the Eden of North Wales, extends in length about twenty-five miles, and in breadth about eight. The neighbourhood of Ruthin affords the best view of this vale. Though it is by no means so interesting and romantic as the vale of Glamorgan, yet its high cultivation, and the picturesque, but moderate height of the hills, rising on each side of the river Clwyd, renders the scenery pleasing: its chief produce is corn. Both these vales claim the attention of the traveller; and both have to boast of particular beauties. One mile from St. Asaph we passed, on our right, the elegant seat of Sir Edward Lloyd. We still followed the banks of the Clwyd; and at the farthest extremity a light elegant bridge of seven arches, with the dark tower of St. Asaph’s cathedral rising on an eminence just over it, gave a picturesque effect to the whole scenery.

The town itself is built on a hill, in one straight line, with a few neat houses. The cathedral naturally demands attention: the inside is remarkably neat and elegant, entirely Gothic, with the ceiling of chesnut, and open ribs like the skeleton of a ship. The monument of David ap Owen, bishop of this diocese, was particularly pointed out to us. The bishop’s palace has been entirely rebuilt by the present diocesan. The choir consists of a bishop, dean, six canons, seven prebends, and four vicars. There are no monuments in the churchyard, and few of any importance within its venerable walls.

St. Asaph receives its derivation from its patron, who established a bishop’s see here, in the year 590: but in British it is named Llan-Elwy, on account of the conflux of the Elwy with the Clwyd. It is singular, that the cathedral is not used as a parish church, as all the other Welsh cathedrals are; and that the bishop’s jurisdiction extends over no entire county, but includes part of Flintshire, Denbighshire, Montgomeryshire, Merionethshire, and Shropshire.

From St. Asaph to Holywell the distance is about ten miles. The first part of the road continuing through the vale of Clwyd, affords prospects of agricultural riches rarely excelled; the latter part is rocky and rugged, but pleasant. On the one side you enjoy the distant view of Denbigh, with its ancient castle fast mouldering to decay, and on the other that of Rhyddlan, backed by the distant sea view. The whole of this tract of country abounds in lead-mines and calamine. Between this road and the sea stands Downing, late the residence of the celebrated Mr. Pennant, to whom the world was so much indebted for his numerous and laborious literary publications.

On the summit of a lofty hill called Carreg, in the parish of Whitford, about two miles to the left of the road, is an ancient circular building, which Mr. Pennant believed to have been a Roman pharos, constructed to assist in the navigating the difficult channel of Seteia Portus to and from Deva. This appears the more probable, as it still forms a prominent landmark, highly useful to the small Welsh sloops and coasting vessels, which in fine weather drop along with the tides from the lime-rocks, between Llandrillo and Llanddulas, to Parkgate, Liverpool, &c.; in one of which I witnessed the rising sun just as we opened the rich and beautiful vale of Clwyd;—a scene so pre-eminently fine and impressive, that the lapse of five-and-twenty years has not effaced it from, or weakened it in, my recollection.

HOLYWELL

is a place of considerable trade and bustle, with easy access to the sea. It is pleasantly situated on the side of a hill, possessing many good houses; but is chiefly famous for its well, which although only little better than a mile from the sea, furnishes a sufficiency of water to work eleven mills and factories, viz. one corn mill, four cotton mills, and six copper and brass mills and forges.

The quantity of water thrown up is, on an accurate calculation, proved to exceed eighty-four hogsheads in a minute. It is covered by a small Gothic building, the canopy of which is of most delicate workmanship. For its origin, miracles, &c. I must refer the reader to the Life of St. Winifred, or some of the numerous authorities that have particularized them: suffice it to say, that the devotees of this saint (whose head was cut off, and so effectually replaced on her shoulders, that she survived it fifteen years) were very numerous; and in the last age the well was so noted, that, according to Mr. Pennant, “the prince, who lost three kingdoms for a mass, payed his respects, on the 29th of August, 1686, to our saint, and received as a reward a present of the very shift in which his great grandmother, Mary Queen of Scots, lost her head.”

“The church being situated below the town, the sound of the bell can be heard but a short distance; to summon the inhabitants to their devotions, therefore, a person parades the town with a large bell, suspended from his neck.” {256a}

The supply of water from this well is scarcely ever perceived to vary; and it has never been known to be frozen, a circumstance of far greater importance than its miraculous qualities.

The stage from Holywell to Flint is only six miles, and, like Flint itself, affords little subject for observation or remark.

FLINT

is a small market town, created a free borough in the reign of Philip and Mary, and confirmed in the 12th of William III. It, in conjunction with Caerwys, Rhyddlan, Caergwrle, and Overton, sends a member to parliament, elected by such inhabitants as pay parochial taxes. The castle, begun by Henry II., and finished by Edward I., stands upon a rock, in a marsh upon the south bank of the Dee; the channel of which once ran in considerable depth under its walls, which, even at the present day, are washed at high tides. By whom, and when it was founded, is uncertain. It is chiefly famous for being the place where Edward II. received his obnoxious favourite, Piers Gaveston, on his return from banishment; and where Percy, Earl of Northumberland, surrendered Richard the Second into the hands of the Duke of Lancaster. “When Richard arrived at Flint,” says the author of the Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature, {256b} “he said to the Duke of Lancaster, afterwards Henry the Fourth, ‘Cousin of Lancaster, you are welcome.’ ‘My Lord the King,’ returned the Duke, bowing three times to the ground, ‘I am arrived sooner than you appointed me; because the common report of your people reached me, that you have, for one and twenty years, governed them rigorously, and with which they are by no means satisfied. It is my desire, if God be willing, to assist you to govern them better for the future.’ ‘Fair cousin,’ returned the wounded monarch, assuming an air of cheerfulness, ‘Fair cousin, since it pleases you, it pleases me also.’ The King and the Duke soon after made their entry into London, which Shakspeare has described so beautifully. Richard resigned his crown; and, as a recompence, was soon after murdered in Pontefract castle.” In the reign of Charles the First, the castle was repaired by Sir Roger Mostyn, and sustained a lengthened siege, till all the provisions were exhausted, when it made an honourable surrender in December 1646: it, with Hawarden and other castles, was dismantled by order of Parliament. In proceeding to Chester, you regain the high road at Northop: three miles and a half beyond which, to the left, about a quarter of a mile from the road, on the edge of a glen, and surrounded by a wood, are to be traced the remains of Euloe Castle, a small fortress: the proprietor of which, named Howell, was entitled by ancient custom to give the badge of a silver harp to the best harper in North Wales. But it is chiefly remarkable for the defeat which Henry the Second received in the wood in its vicinity, from David and Conan, the two sons of Owen Gwynedd. By stratagem, they drew the English army into a narrow pass betwixt the hills; when attacking its front, flanks, and rear, they routed it with the most dreadful slaughter. Regaining the road, you soon reach Hawarden, a small neat town, chiefly remarkable for the ruins of its ancient castle, so frequently mentioned in history: its remains are to be traced in the grounds of Lady Glynne, at the east end of the town; little now remains of them, but, from the eminence on which they stand, you command a fine view of the Dee and the county of Chester.

CHESTER,

Carlisle, and Conway, are the only three British towns or cities that have preserved their ancient walls anyways entire. Those of Chester are nearly two miles in circumference, and sufficiently broad to afford room for two persons to walk abreast; for this purpose they are now kept in repair, affording an agreeable lounge, fresh air, and, from the different sides, varied and extensive views.

The rows are another peculiarity belonging to Chester: the streets, which are much broader than those of old towns or cities generally, are considerably excavated: on this lower level are the warehouses, kitchens, &c. and on the first floor, with galleries, or rows as they are termed, in the front, are the shops. These galleries afford a covered walk for foot passengers: they are inconvenient, particularly for ladies, as at every crossing you have to descend and ascend the different steps: they give an air of great singularity to the city.

Chester was formerly termed Caerleon Gawr, or Vawr, and was, during the time of the Romans, the station of the twentieth legion. Numerous Roman antiquities have been found here, such as altars, &c. and a _hypocaust_, or furnace for heating a sudatorium, was a short time back to be seen at the Feathers Inn.

The castle is situate at the north-west extremity of the city. It was founded by Hugh Lupus, in the reign of William the Conqueror, and has within these few years undergone considerable alterations. In it was confined the beautiful, but unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots, after her defeat at Langside.

The cathedral is a heavy irregular pile of building, affording little either within or without worthy of observation. It is built of bad stone, on which the workmanship bestowed was quite good enough: it stands on the site of the ancient Abbey of St. Werburgh. The altar-piece is a fine specimen of tapestry, representing the history of Elymas the sorcerer, taken from one of the Cartoons of Raphael.

The bishop’s palace, in the Abbey Court, is a handsome modern stone building. The exchange, or town hall, is an elegant and useful fabric, standing in the middle of the city. It is supported on columns, and contains, as well as the common hall, assembly rooms, with every convenience for the corporation meetings and entertainments. The shire hall is a handsome stone building, with one of the most complete and elegant court rooms in the kingdom. The new gaol is likewise a well-constructed edifice, having five yards, and all the necessary conveniences for a separation of prisoners.

Anxious to view the superb seat of the Earl of Grosvenor, Eaton Hall, we did not afford that time to examine this ancient city which it merited; it will not, therefore, be right for the tourist to be satisfied with this as a guide to its antiquities, but rather to purchase the local one, which will afford every information.

EATON HALL,

the seat of Earl Grosvenor, recently erected by the present noble earl, is a splendid Gothic mansion, standing on the site of the ancient fabric, in an extensive park, surrounded with fine and venerable timber. The basement of the ancient pile has been preserved, but the superstructure has been enlarged to double the original dimensions. The style of architecture is Gothic: but it is proper to observe, that the cathedral Gothic, of the age of Edward the Third, as exhibited in York-Minster, the church of Newark-upon-Trent, and other celebrated structures in England, is chiefly imitated, especially on the outside; though Mr. Porden, the architect, has not scrupled to avail himself of the low Tudor arch, and the forms of any other age that suited his purpose, which was to adapt the rich variety of our ancient ecclesiastical architecture to modern domestic convenience. The same style prevails through the whole of the interior, but more or less embellished, to suit the uses of the apartments respectively. Round the turrets, and in various parts of the balustrades, are Gothic shields, charged in relievo with the armorial bearings of the Grosvenor family, and of other ancient families, that by intermarriages the Grosvenors are entitled to quarter with their own. The windows, which are rich in tracery, are of iron, cast from models in wood by the iron-founders of Chester, and are, perhaps, the first that have been made of that material, moulded on both sides and grooved to receive the glass. The walls, balustrades, battlements, and pinnacles, are of stone, brought by land-carriage about sixteen miles, from quarries near Fordsham. It is of a light and beautiful colour, which harmonizes with the hues of nature in the landscape.

The park is flat, but the distant country is elevated and various. To the west the mountains of Wales, with Moel-Famma, rise directly in front; and to the south and east the hills of Shropshire and Cheshire, with that remarkable knowl on which Beeston Castle is situated. The city of Chester lies on the north. From various parts of the park and grounds this noble mansion is seen to much better advantage than by the regular approaches from Chester, &c.

“The entrance to the house is in the middle of the west front, under a vaulted portico, which admits a carriage to the steps that lead to the hall, a spacious and lofty room, occupying the height of two stories, with a vaulted ceiling, embellished with the Grosvenor arms, &c. in the knots that cover the junction of the ribs. The pavement is of variegated marbles in Gothic compartments. On each of the sides is an ornamented marble chimney-piece, and four niches with pedestals and canopies. The niches, it is probable, will hereafter be filled with statues, and the walls covered with historical paintings; for which no family can furnish more ample materials, as the heads of it were engaged in most of the military transactions of the English in the chivalrous ages. At the end of the hall, a screen of five arches supports a gallery, that connects the bed-chambers on the north side of the house with those on the south, which are separated by the elevation of the hall. Under this gallery, two open arches to the right and left conduct to the grand staircase, the state bed-room, and the second staircase; and opposite to the door of the hall is the entrance to the saloon. The grand staircase is highly ornamented with niches and canopies, and with tracery under the landings, and, in the principal ceiling, which is crowned with a double sky-light of various-coloured glass. The steps of the second staircase, with its tracery and balustrade, are all of cast-iron. The state bed-room is lighted by two painted windows, with tracery and armorial bearings, and contains a magnificent bed. On entering the saloon, the eye is struck with the splendour of three lofty painted windows, which contain, in six divisions, the portraits of the Conqueror’s nephew, Gilbert le Grosvenor, the founder of the Grosvenor family, and his lady; of William the Conqueror, with whom Gilbert came into England; the Bishop of Bayeux, uncle to the Conqueror; the heiress of the house of Eaton; and Sir Robert le Grosvenor; who distinguished himself in the wars of Edward the Third, and more particularly by his legal contest with Sir Richard le Scroope, for the family arms—_azure_, _one bend_, _or_; in which Sir Richard gained his point. Sir Robert being obliged to add to them _un bordure argent_—objecting to which, he was allowed to bear the arms of his relation, Hugh Lupus, first Earl of Chester, _azure_, _a garbe_, _or_, which is the family coat to this day. These windows are from cartoons by Mr. Tresham and others. The saloon is a square of thirty feet, formed into an octagon by arches across the angles, which give the vaultings a beautiful form. The chimney-piece is of statuary marble, and opposite to it is an organ, both richly decorated. On the left of the saloon is an ante-room, that leads to the dining-room, and on the right another that leads to the drawing-room, both decorated, but in a subordinate degree to the state rooms, with which they communicate. The windows of these rooms are glazed with a light mosaic tracery, and exhibit the portraits of the six earls of Chester, who, after Hugh Lupus, governed Cheshire as a county palatine, till Henry the Third bestowed the title on his son Edward; since which time the eldest sons of the kings of England have always been Earls of Chester.

“The dining-room, situated at the northern extremity of the east front, is about fifty feet long, and thirty feet wide, exclusive of a bow containing five arched windows; the opening of which is thirty feet. In the middle window is the portrait of Hugh Lupus. This portrait, with the six Earls of Chester in the ante-room windows, are the work of Messrs. Davenport, of Staffordshire, from cartoons by Mr. Singleton. The ceiling is of bold and rich tracery, with coats of arms in proper colours, and a large ornamented pendant for a chandelier. At the end, opposite to the entrance, is an arched recess, containing the sideboard, and on each side of it is a large niche, with its pedestal and canopy. The opposite end of the room has a similar recess, under which is the door from the ante-room, and similar niches on each side of it. Other niches and canopies, of smaller size, ornament the jambs of the arched recess and the bow.

“The drawing-room, which is at the southern extremity of the east front, is of the same form and dimensions as the dining-room; with the addition of a large window that looks to the south, and commands a view of the groves and fertile meadows of Eaton, with the village and spire of Oldford above them. All the windows of this room are adorned with heads and figures of the ancestors of the family; among which are the portraits of the present Earl and Countess, in a beautiful brown _chiaro-oscuro_, executed by Messrs. Bachelor and Silk, of Newman-street, and do credit to the talents of those ingenious artists. The niches, canopies, and other ornaments, are the same in situation as those of the dining-room, but of a lighter and richer design. The ceiling is a piece of embroidery of the nicest materials and workmanship; where all the coats borne by the Grosvenor family are blazoned in their proper colours, and also the arms of Egerton, Earl of Wilton, the father of the present Countess Grosvenor. The arms of Egerton appear in various parts of the house, and will mark the date of this fabric to future antiquaries, if all other memorials should be forgotten or destroyed. The colour of the saloon is blue, the ante dining-room of light blue, the dining-room of a bright scarlet, the ante drawing-room is hung with light blue satin, the drawing-room with crimson velvet: the curtains and draperies are of crimson and gold satin, with gold tassels and fringes, disposed in a striking and picturesque manner by Messrs. Gillow, under the direction of Joseph Kay, Esq. architect to the post-office. All the other furniture of these apartments is the work of the same artificers, and appropriate to the style of the house. The vistas from the dining-room, through the two ante-rooms, and the saloon to the south window of the drawing-room, and in the opposite direction from the drawing-room to the dining-room, terminating with the splendidly-furnished sideboard of plate, perhaps cannot be exceeded in novelty and variety by any thing of the kind in England.

“The library is in the centre of the south front. The ceiling and the large bow-window, with their ornaments, are in the same style as the rooms already described, but less rich. The book-cases are of English oak, with arches of tracery, buttresses, pinnacles, and battlements. The sitting-room of the Countess is the only room on this floor with square-headed windows and a flat ceiling, and is an apartment of singular beauty.

“The middle window of the saloon opens to a vaulted cloister, occupying the space between the dining and drawing-rooms, in the east front, which affords a sheltered walk in all weathers. A flight of steps leads from the cloister to a spacious terrace, three hundred and fifty or sixty feet long, laid out in gravel walks and beds of flowers; from whence other steps at each end and in the middle descend to the garden and pleasure grounds, which are disposed with much taste. The view from the terrace is rich and various.

“Our limits will not admit of a particular description of the offices and stables, though both are deserving of attention. The latter surround a court of 160 feet by 100, and are decorated with battlements and turrets, and a clock tower, supported by flying buttresses, in a style of Gothic architecture plainer than that of the house.

“Eaton Hall and the buildings here described, with their furniture, were designed by and executed under the direction of Mr. Porden, of Berners-street.” {266}

Having been highly gratified with the inspection of this noble edifice and grounds, we returned to Chester by the side of the Dee, a pleasant walk of about three miles; amply prepared to do justice to the hospitable board of a kind friend. Finding but little conversation to be obtained from us, but on the subject of Eaton Hall, he kindly furnished us with the preceding account, which he assured us had been corrected, and was the best extant.

Hugh Lupus, before spoken of, was appointed by William the Conqueror, first Earl of Chester; which was erected into a county palatine, enjoying a sovereign jurisdiction, having parliaments and distinct courts of law. There is still kept in the British Museum the identical sword with which Lupus was invested with his dignity; by virtue of which the Earls of Chester were created sword-bearers of England, and as such were accustomed to officiate at the coronation of the kings of England. On the blade of this sword is the following inscription—_Hugo comes Cestriæ_.

Chester is famed for the elegant manners of its inhabitants; and no city in the kingdom can, I believe, boast of more polished or agreeable society. Our regret at leaving it was so great, that I should recommend the tourist who carries with him letters of introduction to Chester, to make arrangement for three or four days or a week’s stay at this engaging place.

From Chester to Mold there is but little worthy of remark. The distance is about twelve miles: part of the road lies over an extensive flat, called Saltney, a rich and well-cultivated tract of country. Mold is a small neat town, situate in a pleasant valley, surrounded by gentle acclivities: here the assizes for the county of Flint are held. It formerly possessed a strong castle on the north side, built on a mount called the Baily-Hill, of which but few vestiges are now remaining: it is famed in history for the sieges it sustained. The church is a handsome structure, worthy of attention, built in the reign of Henry the Seventh, and contains some fine monuments.

In the vicinity of Mold are large cotton spinning-mills, belonging to a company at Manchester. The two Leeswoods, one the residence of the Rev. Hope Wynne Eyton, the other of Mr. Garnor, formerly of Sir George Wynne, are more remarkable for the gardens, grounds, and more particularly the beautiful iron gates at the entrance of the lawn of the latter, than for size and architecture.

Tower, the residence of the dowager Mrs. Wardle, is a specimen of the ancient _border-houses_ on the confines of Wales and Scotland. It is a square tower, consisting of three stories: in the lower story there still remains a staple in the ceiling—a memorial of the rudeness of the times. During the wars between the houses of York and Lancaster, this place was inhabited by Reinallt ap Gryffydd Bleyddyn; one of the six gallant captains who defended Harlech Castle on the part of Henry the Sixth. He and his people were in continual feud with the citizens of Chester. In 1465, a considerable number of the latter came to Mold fair. A fray ensued between the two parties, and dreadful slaughter was made on both sides. Reinallt, however, got the victory, taking prisoner Robert Bryne or Browne, Mayor of Chester, who, in his private capacity as a draper, had attended the fair; whom he led to this tower, and hung on the staple in his great hall. About a mile north-west of the town is Maes Garmon, famous for the celebrated battle of the Victoria Alleluiatica; in which the Britons, under the two bishops, Germanus and Lupus, in Easter week, 448, defeated and destroyed the Picts and Saxons. Germanus, having previously directed his soldiers to repeat loudly and generally the word he should give, he at the proper time pronounced _Alleluja_! The whole army caught the sacred sound; which they repeated with such energy, that the mountains echoed the religious exultation; and both combined to strike such terror into the invading foe, that he fled in the utmost consternation: numbers fell by the sword, and as many perished in the adjacent river. This event is commemorated by the Hallelujah Monument, erected by the late Nehemiah Griffith, Esq. of Rhual. Mold has two inns, the Black Lion and Griffin: its market is on a Saturday.