Chapter I: RECOMMEND this apparatus, having, for many years, employed exactly (5)

enclosed in a piece of muslin rag and boiled ten minutes with four quarts of white-wine vinegar. Make up the jar close with a bung, if it will admit of it, and put it on a hob by a fireside for ten days, agitating the contents three or four times daily. Now see that the fruit is perfectly covered with pickle, and secure the vessel with bladder and leather, and set it by for six months, by which time the bitter taste will be dissipated. It must next be bottled for store, effected thus: Turn the pickle and fruit into a hair sieve and press the liquor out into a large jug or jar, and on the next day pour the clear off from the lees through a muslin strainer into bottles, which should be corked well and the air excluded by sealing wax. You will still have remaining some sediment, upon which you may put half a pint of boiling rough cider or light vinegar, for an inferior lemon pickle, to be kept apart from your best. Better than the first product is rarely made, and it is an estimable pickle, generally admitted.

MANGOES.

An excellent imitation may be made by any dextrous person who wishes to excel in this branch. The cucumbers for this pickling must be gathered as soon as they have attained full growth, and the larger the better, but they must not be ripe or of a light yellow colour. Cut out a piece from the side of each and put them aside, take out nicely the seeds, and put both the cucumbers and the pieces which were taken from them into a pickle of two pounds of salt to a gallon of water, with half an ounce of saltpetre and one ounce of sal prunelle, so let them lie ten or twelve days, and until they come to a yellow colour; then put them in a pan with alternate layers of vine leaves, and dissolve half an ounce of alum in the brine they were pickled in, pour it upon them in the pan, which set upon a fire not too brisk, and let the cucumbers be subjected to a scalding process for about four hours, being attentive all the time that the pickle does not reach the boiling point. They should now be of a nice green colour. Set them on a sieve to drain, and then insert into each cucumber

One stick of fresh horseradish
Mustard seed ½ oz.
Four cloves of garlic
Peppercorns ½ oz.

Replace the pieces of the fruit you cut out, and attach them by a needle and green silk. Make then the following pickle, by boiling for ten minutes:

White-wine vinegar 6½ qts.
Black peppercorns 3 oz.
Mustard seed 6 oz.
Garlic 2 oz.
Shalots 1 oz.
Mace 1½ oz.
Cloves 2 oz.
Long pepper 3 oz.

Lay the mangoes in a deep straight-sided jar, and pour the pickle when cold upon them, covering completely, and an inch above at least, then make secure with bladder and leather. These will require three or four months at least before fit for use.

GREEN WALNUTS.

Get a hundred of fine large walnuts while the shells are yet tender, wrap them up in vine leaves separately, put them into jars along with plenty more vine leaves, and so that they cannot suffer by contact with each other, and cover plentifully with the best light-coloured vinegar; make secure from the air, and let them remain so for three weeks. Now pour off the vinegar, wrap up again the fruit in fresh vine leaves, and fill the jars with vinegar as before, this must be continued two weeks longer, when you may take off the leaves, put the fruit into jars, and make the following pickle for them:

Pale vinegar, with enough
salt in it to float an egg 3 quarts
Garlic, minced 1½ oz.
Cloves, bruised 2 oz.
Mace, bruised 1 oz.
Allspice, bruised 1½ oz.
Nutmeg, bruised 2 oz.

Let these simmer fifteen minutes, and pour the whole, boiling hot, over the walnuts; tie bladder and leather over the jars, and keep four months before breaking in upon them.

WALNUTS PICKLED WHITE.

Bespeak a hundred of the largest walnuts just when they will suit your purpose, that is, to admit of their being peeled down to the very white interior, the kernels; have ready a brine of one pound of salt to the gallon, and pop your walnuts into it, overhead, as you get them peeled, and when all done, keep them well covered in the brine four hours. Next put a pan of pure water over the fire, and just as it is coming to boil, lay in the fruit, which must not be boiled at all, only simmered, for about ten or twelve minutes. Then transfer them to a pan of cold water, with a trifling amount of salt in it; after being in this ten minutes, take them out, and remove them into a pickle of two and a half pounds of salt to the gallon, in this let them be kept half an hour, totally immersed in the pickle to protect the colour. Next take them out, and lay them between cloths to dry; each nut then must be wiped separately, and put into clean white earthenware jars, with this mixture――

Mace, bruised 1½ oz.
Cloves, bruised 2 oz.
White pepper, bruised 2 oz.
Bay leaves, shred 1½ oz.
Laurel leaves, shred 1 oz.

――scattered pretty plentifully throughout them. Fill up your jars with best white-wine vinegar, and secure them from the air with bladder and leather.

PEACHES AND NECTARINES.

The fruit should be gathered just as it is beginning to ripen, and needs to be perfectly sound, as any bruised or decaying ones would most likely spoil the whole, and, what is worse, the loss is not discoverable till a long time after. Let them lie covered over with a pickle of bay salt and water, one and a half pounds to the gallon, for three or four days, according to size; take them out and, wiping them separately, lay them in jars, and pour over them, when cold, this pickle:

Mace, beaten fine ½ oz.
Cloves, beaten fine ½ oz.
Nutmeg, beaten fine ½ oz.
Ginger, sliced 1 oz.
Garlic, minced ½ oz.
White-wine vinegar 1 gallon

It must be boiled fifteen minutes and skimmed well. Fill the jars so as to cover the fruit completely with the pickle. Tie bladder and leather over, and keep them eight or nine months. They will be very rich and choice pickles.

GOLDEN PIPPINS.

From a basketful of this ripe fruit pick out twenty of the largest and clearest, lay them in a stewpan, and, covering them with soft water, set them on a fire and let them simmer until the peels begin to be separated from them――they must on no account come to the boil. If tender, set them to go cold, and peel them carefully, then lay them again in the water, adding nearly a pint of good sharp vinegar, and continue the simmering until they become a nice green colour. Now, with a wooden spoon take them out singly, and let them go cold, and make the following pickle, boiling it and skimming as long as any scum arises, for fifteen or twenty minutes:

Best ginger, bruised 1½ oz.
Mustard seed, bruised 2 oz.
Garlic, sliced ¾ oz.
Mace, bruised ¾ oz.
Cloves, bruised 1½ oz.
White-wine vinegar 2 quarts

Put the fruit carefully into jars, not crushing them, and pour the pickle, cold, upon them, and effectually exclude the air with bladder and leather.

NASTURTIUMS.

About ten days after the blossoms have left the plants is the proper time to take these for pickling, and they should be immediately put into process, before they become shrivelled. Immerse half a peck of the clearest and soundest in a pan of cold salt and water, and let them remain thus, changing the pickle every morning, for three days. Lay them to drain on a sieve, and then dry them well between cloths; and make a pickle of the following ingredients:

Six eschalots, minced
White peppercorns 2 oz.
Mace, bruised 1½ oz.
Nutmeg, sliced 1½ oz.
Common table salt 6 oz.
White-wine vinegar 5 pints

Skim this well, boiling it fifteen minutes, and, filling jars with the fruit, pour the liquor and spices equally upon them, when about new milk warm, and tie bladder over the jars.

BEET-ROOTS.

Pickled beet-roots which have both fine colour and flavour to recommend them are seldom to be met with, particularly in the provinces. If this method is tried, it will most certainly recommend them. Take half a dozen roots of the deepest blood-red colour, put them into a pail of cold water, and with a soft brush scour and wash them well, and without breaking the skin in the least. Put them into a saucepan of boiling water, and let them boil gently until tender, and no longer, then take them up, wipe dry, and leave them until the next day. Now peel them nicely, and cut them across in slices a quarter of an inch thick, not using the extremities. You may cut the slices into various ornamental and grotesque figures, and lay them in open-mouthed jars, and make the following pickle:

Mace 1 oz.
Cloves, bruised 2 oz.
Peppercorns 2 oz.
Bay salt, pounded 4 oz.
Ginger, sliced 2 oz.
Horseradish, sliced 1 oz.
Best vinegar ½ gallon

Boil these ten or fifteen minutes, skimming well, and, when cold, pour over the roots. Replenish the next day what pickle may have been absorbed, and cover the jars with bladder and leather. This pickle is ready in a month, and is very good. It makes a beautiful garnish with fish at dinner, &c. &c.

BUTTON MUSHROOMS, FOR PIES AND SAUCES.

Pick out expressly for this purpose a couple of quarts of fresh gathered button mushrooms, cut the stalks out closely, and wipe them singly with a piece of soft flannel dipped in moistened bay salt, place them apart on dishes and scatter a _little_ finely beaten salt amongst them. Put them into a roomy saucepan along with

Mace, slightly bruised ½ oz.
White peppercorns, slightly bruised ¾ oz.
Bay leaves, shred ½ oz.
Cloves, bruised ¼ oz.

and let them simmer gently and until all their juice is taken up. Take the pan from the fire, and when cooled a little add to them four or five glasses of good white wine, agitate the mushrooms in the pan, replace it on the fire and bring it to the boil for one minute, then add three pints of the best pale vinegar and boil for ten minutes slowly. Now put the mushrooms into glass or stone jars that are clean and perfectly dry, and when cold make secure with corks or bladder, and keep them in a dry cool room. This is an estimable pickle, and will be appreciated duly by lady-cooks, who best know its usefulness and the various ways in which both the mushrooms and their pickle may be made available. The wine should be good old Madeira, and the quantity may be increased with great advantage.

GREEN PARSLEY.

Take fresh green curled parsley just at maturity, pick out the most handsome sprigs and put them into salt and water strong enough to float an egg, and let remain so for five or six days; set them to drain on a sieve, and then immerse them in another fresh pickle of the same strength for ten days longer, changing the brine twice. Then drain them again, and put them into pure cold spring water for two days, changing the water daily, and when again drained scald them in boiling water until they are of a nice green, and dry them between soft cloths. Make, then, the following pickle of

Mace ½ oz.
Nutmeg, sliced 1 oz.
Eschalots, minced 1 oz.
Horseradish, sliced 2 oz.
White-wine vinegar 3 pints

which must be boiled ten or twelve minutes and well skimmed. Put the parsley branches lightly into jars and pour the pickle over, covering well. Fill up again with pickle the next day, and cover that again with pure olive oil to the thickness of an inch or thereabouts. Cover close with wetted bladder, and over that, when dried, with soft leather, and keep in a dry airy room.

WALNUT CATSUP.

When walnuts have attained maturity, and are being deprived of the outside green shells by the fruiterers, take half a peck of these husks, put them into a jar, and pour on them as much cold strong pickling vinegar as will quite cover them; bung up the jar, and so let them remain three months. Then press out the liquor upon a sieve, and to every gallon of it take

Cloves 1 oz.
Mace ¾ oz.
Ginger 1½ oz.
Jamaica pepper 1½ oz.
Black pepper 1 oz.
Garlic 1 oz.
Port wine lees 1½ quart
Anchovies 8 oz.

With all these boil up the liquor of the walnuts, and let them simmer twenty minutes, skimming well the whole time, then put it aside for two days and boil it again until reduced one-third part. When cold, you may put it in bottles, which cork well and seal with wax. It will be an excellent catsup, and will be greatly improved by long keeping.

MUSHROOM CATSUP.

Throw large black flap mushrooms into a vessel, and crush them with the hands well, throwing in a large handful of common salt to each peck, and let them so lie for two days. Then put them into a crock of earthenware, and let them be macerated in a cool baker’s oven for six hours or so, and, when cold, press out the juice, which boil with the following, to each gallon of the liquor:

Mace ½ oz.
Jamaica pepper 1 oz.
Black pepper 1 oz.
Cloves 1½ oz.
Ginger 1 oz.
Garlic 1 oz.
Bay salt 9 oz.

The simmering and skimming must be continued as long as any filth rises, and let it then be put away for a day or two, and boiled up again, being kept well up to the boiling point until reduced to half its original quantity. When cold it may be put into bottles and firmly corked and waxed.

TOMATO CATSUP.

When tomatoes are fully ripe take two dozen of fine, large, sound ones, put them into jars and bake until they are tender; strain off the water from them, and pass the pulp through a sieve, then add to every pound of the pulp,

Eschalots, shred 1 oz.
Garlic, shred ½ oz.
Bay salt ¼ oz.
White pepper, finely powdered ¼ oz.
Chili vinegar 1 pint

Boil them together until the whole is quite soft, and pass it again through a sieve. Now, to every pound of the pulp add the juice of two lemons, and one large Seville orange, boil it again until it has attained the consistence of thick cream, and when cold bottle it; cork and seal well.

CELERY, CRAB SALAD.

Open and wash thoroughly clean a fine head of celery, wipe dry, and cut it across into a basin, add to it two ounces of some good rich old cheese sliced thinly, a teaspoonful of mustard mixed as for the table, a tablespoonful of best olive oil, the same quantity of vinegar, with pepper and salt to your taste. Mix all well together.

ELDER-FLOWER VINEGAR.

Pick out all the stalks from a peck of fresh elder flowers and put them into a vessel with two gallons of white-wine vinegar, set them under the influence of bright sunbeams for fourteen days and upwards, or at a short distance from a continuous fire, and then filter the vinegar through a new flannel bag; fill bottles, which must be well corked and sealed.

TARRAGON VINEGAR.

Take the leaves of tarragon just before it blossoms, put a pound of them to three quarts of the best white-wine vinegar in a stone jar, and let them infuse sixteen days. Then drain it and strain through a flannel bag; add for every two gallons a quarter of an ounce of isinglass dissolved in sherry wine, and let it be agitated briskly in a large stone bottle two days. Leave it a month to get fine, then draw it off into clean dry glass bottles, which cork well and seal.

WHITE-GOOSEBERRY VINEGAR.

Vinegars should be made at home if you wish to rely upon their quality. This will be superior to any white-wine vinegar, “so called at the shops,” and as such will be extremely serviceable in all large establishments and families. Choose fruit of the lightest colour you can get when fully ripe, mash it with a wooden mallet or potato beetle. To every peck of the fruit put two gallons of water, stir them well for an hour and let them ferment three weeks, repeating the stirring daily. Then strain off the liquor and add for every gallon:

Loaf sugar 1 lb.
Yeast, thick and fresh 1 tablespoonful
Treacle 1 tablespoonful

Let it work for three or four days, then put it into a sweet barrel of convenient size, and stop it down for twelve months.

SYRUP D’ORGEAT, A PARIS RECEIPT.

This elegant syrup is thus made:

Sweet almonds 20 oz.
Bitter almonds 8 oz.
Refined sugar 9 lb.
Water 4 pints

Blanch the almonds, dry them perfectly and pound them in a mortar with the sugar, adding gradually two thirds of the water; strain through linen, and wash the almonds on the strainer with the remainder of the water, and dissolve the sugar in the strained liquor by a gentle heat. Pour the syrup into an earthenware vessel, remove the scum, and, when nearly cold, add two ounces of orange-flower water. Put it into clean clear glass bottles, cork well, and seal effectually.

AN EXCELLENT CURRY-POWDER.

Turmeric 2 oz.
Coriander seeds 6 oz.
Ginger ½ oz.
Cinnamon 2 drachms
Cayenne pepper 6 drachms
Black pepper ½ oz.
Mace 1 drachm
Fenugreek 1½ oz.
Pimento 2 drachms
Cloves 1 drachm
Nutmeg ½ oz.

Pound all the above separately in a mortar, mix thoroughly for twenty minutes, then sift and again pound the returns, which, when in finest powder, mix with bulk; put into dry bottles, cork them well and seal. Some persons prefer more turmeric and less coriander. Others add two ounces of the best Durham mustard (scorched). Others, half an ounce of cardamoms or two ounces of cummin. The colour should be light yellow――brown, not bright yellow.

NOTES.

It has been incontestably proved by Baron Liebig and other Professors of Chemistry, that the albumen and gelatine constitute the leading nutritive ingredients in the different kinds of flesh and fish used as food; and I have arrived at the conclusion, that any mode of curing which deprives them of these valuable properties, is opposed to facts in science and to common-sense, and cannot therefore be tolerated.

On the nutritive properties of animal food, Professor Brande writes: “When the muscular parts of animals are washed repeatedly in cold water, the fibrinous matter which remains, consists chiefly of albumen, and is, in its chemical properties, analogous to the clot of blood.”

In mutton, the albumen or fibrin amounts to as much as twenty-two per cent., and of gelatine to seven per cent., giving a total of twenty-nine per cent. of nutritive matter. In beef, the albumen is twenty, and the gelatine six per cent., yielding a total of twenty-six per cent. of nutritive matter.

When a piece of meat is covered with salt, or immersed in brine, the salt penetrates the whole fibre of the flesh, and the juices contained within are drawn out, and mix with the brine; the salts of potass contained in it, are exchanged and superseded by those of soda, derived from _the salt_ with which it has been cured; now, as a constant supply of potass is required in the system to renew the muscular fibre, it is quite clear that the want of it must be attended with some derangement of the health; and hence the benefit derived from the taking of vegetables, which by supplying potass, make up for the want of this alkali in the meat.

Albumen is coagulated by heat, and is drawn out by cold water; this fact is referred to in Note, No. 11.

* * * * *

No. 1. The coating of small articles, of the better sorts, excludes the air. It is a mixture of gelatine with treacle, applied when hot, and which when exposed to the air becomes hardened, yet elastic as india-rubber. See Note, No. 12.

No. 2. The smoking with different sorts of fuel exerts a considerable influence on the flavour and preservation of the articles so treated; for example, the mutton of the Ardennes forest, Belgium, which owes its superiority to the juniper bushes with which it is dried and smoked. And again, kippered salmon smoked with cedar-wood, at the request of some of our wealthy Jew families, is excellent, though rather expensive.

No. 3. The spicing of bacon was adopted some years since, and chiefly in Ireland, to hide the inferior quality of the meat.

No. 4. Bay salt is far preferable to common salt for curing meats and fish, but the expense deters many persons from using it, except in small quantities. The rock, or mineral salt of Cheshire, is equal in all respects to the bay salt of commerce, and I have long used it with the greatest success. Common salt leaves a _bitter_ smatch on all food cured with it after being long kept. See Note, No. 12.

No. 5. There is no remedy for over-salted provisions. You may, indeed, cut them into slices and lay them in water, but this only affects the outsides of large pieces, as hams, &c. If I had a ham that I suspected of being over salted, I should put it in an old bag, and bury it in my garden for a week or more, according to size.

No. 6. Rubbing large joints of meat over with a profusion of common salt, and letting them lie, to “draw out the blood,” as it is termed, is contrary to all reason, for away goes the chief part of the flavour and nutriment.

No. 7. Sprats are so different in their animal construction as to be easily detected from genuine fish――Gorgona anchovies. The Armenian bole, often made use of to colour the sauce, has very properly been exposed and condemned.

No. 8. Pure olive oil will preserve meat and fish, after it has been cured, for a long time; but oils drawn from lard and other spurious imitations, will not fail to hasten their decay. The oil should never be heated, when used for this purpose.

No. 9. Subjecting meats to a water-bath is not to be resorted to. I was shown a specification previous to the taking out of a patent (in France, by a French gentleman) to cure the more expensive sorts of fish. The first part of the process proposed, was subjecting the fish to a water-bath, first for three hours, and, changing the water, then to two hours further immersion in warm water. I, of course, entered my protest against such unreasonable treatment. I am sure I could not conjecture what became of both flavour and nutriment after so long immersion.

No. 10. Meats to be boiled, and particularly fish, must be put into _boiling_ water, and after being kept up to the boiling point fifteen minutes or so, let them only simmer until done.

No. 11. The albumen is drawn out from both meat, fish, and vegetables by cold water; how, then, can we reconcile ourselves with the foolish old practice of laying the heads, for instance, and other parts, in pails of water, and leaving them for hours in that state, to lose all their goodness. Vegetables for pickling, too, are often treated in this way. Lying in water cannot possibly _clean_ anything. Wash well, and hang up to dry, is more reasonable.

No. 12. A very effective _coating_ for small cured articles is made thus: To four pounds of hard, compact gelatine, add as much soft or rain-water as will just cover it, and stir it about occasionally for six hours. When it has stood twenty-four hours, and all the water is absorbed, submit it to the action of heat in a water-bath, and the gelatine will be quickly dissolved. Take it off the fire as soon as the froth is perceived to rise, and mix with it three and a half pounds of molasses, which has previously been made thoroughly hot. Stir the composition well together while in the water-bath over the fire, not suffering it to boil. After it has been thus subjected to heat for half an hour, and well stirred all the time, it should be taken off the fire and allowed to cool a little; it is now ready for use, and to be applied to the article of food with a soft brush. Set it in a current of air to harden quickly. A second paying-over with the composition may be done with advantage sometimes. For larger articles, as hams, &c. &c., the best transparent glue may be used instead of gelatine, adding to the composition, when a little cooled, a few drops of essence of nutmegs or pimento. If when cold the coating is found to be not firm enough, the proportion of gelatine or glue must be slightly increased, and when, on the contrary, it is too brittle, the quantity of molasses may be increased.

No. 13. For the accommodation of parties residing at a distance, peat or bog-earth, rock salt from the Cheshire mines, charcoal, &c. &c., may be had, ready for immediate, use, on application to Mr. Robinson, provision curer, Runcorn, Cheshire, and on very moderate terms.

INDEX.

PAGE

Aberdeen red herrings, 55
Anchovies, British, 59
―― Gorgona, to feed, 59
―― Gorgona, smoked, 63
―― essence of, 129
Apparatus for drying, smoking, &c., 1
Asparagus, pickled, 155

Bacon, choice breakfast, 7
―― Leicestershire spiced, 23
Barberries pickled, 154
Bath chaps, 24
Beef as hare, potted, 120
Beef’s heart, potted 123
Beef, hung, Shropshire sirloin, 6
―― Melton hunt, 8
Beef’s heart, smoked, 10
Beef, Ulverston red flank, 11
―― hams, 13
―― Hambro rough, 13
―― Breslau, 14
―― Whitehaven corned, 15
―― Dutch, 25
Beetroots, pickled, 167
Bloaters, 50
Black puddings, Jersey, 90
Birmingham and Oxford tripe, 75
Boar’s head smoked, 19
Brawn, calf’s head, 77
Bucaning meats, described, 1
Bucaned beef kidneys, 80
―― udder, 81
―― calf’s liver, 82
―― beef skirts, 83

Cabbage, red, pickled, 145
Catsup, tomato, 130
―― mushroom, 171
―― walnut, 170
Cauliflowers, pickled, 146
Caveach herrings, 74
Caviare brown, 70
―― white, 71
Cavis of mackerel, 72
Celery, pickled, 151
―― crab salad, 173
Charcoal, preservative quality, 4
Chetna, Bengal, 131
Coating composition, to make, 180
―― to apply, 180
Codlins, pickled, 154
Coated turbot fins, 60
―― river eels, 62
―― conger eels, 68
―― young pig, 114
Collared salmon, 43
―― side of venison, 109
―― young pig, 112
Crabs potted, 107
Crab salad, 173
Conger eels, 69
Currants red, pickled, 151
―― preserved for tarts, 135
Curry powder, excellent, 175

Dried Mutton, as in the Ardennes, 29
―― breast of mutton as venison, 33
Dried Ulverston red flank of beef, 11
―― Conger eels, high flavoured, 69
Digby herrings, 55

Eels, conger, smoked, 66
―― collared, 68
―― dried, 69
―― potted, 118
Elder-flower vinegar, 173
Essences to make, 1
Essence of lobsters, 127
―― shrimps, 128
―― anchovies, 129

Fish, nutriment in (Dr. Davy), 36
―― sauce, excellent, 131
Foots of sugar, to be preferred, 4
Fuel for smoking and drying with, 3

Geese, smoked, 79
German saveloys, 89
Gherkins, pickled, 156
Grapes, „ 152
Goose, a perpetual (beef’s heart), 34
Green West India ginger, preserved, 134

Hambro’ Pickle, for beef and pork, 31
Hams, Westphalia, 19
―― eclipsed, 20
Hare, potted, 114
Haunch of mutton as venison, 26
Herrings, marinated, 103

Italian Cincerelli, 65

Jersey Black Puddings, 90

Kippered Herrings, 52
―― superior, spiced, 53
―― salmon, superior, 40

Lemon mangoes, pickled, 159
Lemon pickle, 160
Lemons, preserved, 139
Lobsters, essence of, 127
―― pickled, 102
―― potted, 106

Mackarel Kippered, 45
―― (May-fish), 46
―― superior pressed, 47
Maltcooms, to keep cured goods in, 4
Mangoes, pickled, 161
Marinated herrings, 103
―― eels, 99
―― high flavour, 100
―― salmon, 92
―― sprats, 104
―― shrimps, 96
―― salmon roes, 127
―― tench and carp, 93
―― trout and grayling, 97
―― veal, 125
―― another method, 126
Marmalade, raspberry, 144
Moor-game, potted, 115
Morello cherries, jam of, 144
Mushroom catsup, 171
―― buttons, pickled, for pies and sauces, 168
Mutton, dried as in the Ardennes, 29
―― breast of, collar as venison, 33
―― haunch as venison, 26
―― thigh of l’Diable, 27
―― Welsh hams, 28

Nasturtiums, pickled, 166
Neats’ tongues, potted, 121
―― pickled, 16
―― high flavoured, 17
―― to pickle, 30

Oversalted Meat, to rectify, 178

Pickled Vegetables,
―― asparagus, 155
―― barberries, 154
―― beetroots, 167
―― cauliflowers, 146
―― currants, red, 151
―― celery, 151
―― codlins, 154
―― gherkins, 156
―― golden pippins, 165
―― grapes, 152
―― mushrooms, white, 147
―― mangoes (lemon), 159
―― lemon pickle, 160
―― mangoes (cucumber), 161
―― nasturtiums, 166
―― mushroom buttons, 168
―― peaches and nectarines, 165
―― piccalilli, 157
―― parsley (green), 169
―― onions, silver, 148
―― walnuts, green, 163
―― „ white, 164
―― samphire, 146
Pickled Meats and Fish,
―― herrings, 73
―― smelts, 101
―― lobsters, 102
Pickle for pork, 31
―― superior, 32
―― a preservative (excellent), 32
―― the Hambro’, for beef and pork, 31
Pig, a young one collared, 112
Polony, Russian, 87
Provocative, a, 132
Portable soup, 78
―― much richer, 78
Porker’s head, smoked, 23
Preservatives, 4
Potted beef’s heart, 122
―― crabs, 107
―― hare, 114
―― eels, 118
―― lobsters, 106
―― Moor game, 115
―― ox cheek, 84
―― neat’s tongue, 121
―― beef as hare, 120
―― pigeons, 86
―― snipes and woodcocks, 116
―― shrimps, 119
―― „ l’Diable, 85
―― trout, 117
―― venison, 124

Preserved
―― apricots, 140
―― barberries, 142
―― cucumbers, 137
―― golden pippins, 143
―― greengage plums, 138
―― damsons, 140
―― Hambro’ grapes, 142
―― lemons, 139
―― Morello cherries, 141
―― peaches and nectarines, 138
―― tomatoes, 136

Smoked Meats,
―― beef’s heart, 10
―― beef hams, 13
―― „ Breslau, 14
―― boar’s head, 19
―― calf’s head brawn, 76
―― Dutch beef, 25
―― geese, smoked, 78
―― goose, a perpetual, 34
―― Hambro beef, 13
―― hung beef, 6
―― Leicestershire spiced bacon, 23
―― Melton hunt beef, 9
―― mutton, as in the Ardennes, 29
―― neats’ tongues, high flavour, 17
―― Norfolk chine, 21
―― porker’s head, 23
―― polony, Russian, 87
―― German saveloys, 89
―― venison, side of, 111
―― Whitehaven corned beef, 15
―― Westphalia hams, 19
―― „ eclipsed, 20
Smoked Fish,
―― eels, river, 62
―― „ conger, 66
―― Gorgona anchovies, 63
―― herrings, bloaters, 50
―― „ kippered, 51
―― Mackerel, kippered, 45
―― „ May-fish, 46
―― „ superior, 47
―― salmon, Welsh, 37
―― „ Dutch, 39
―― „ superior kipper, 40
―― „ American, 48
―― „ collared, 43
―― herrings, Digby, 55
―― „ Aberdeen reds, 55
―― speldings, 56
―― sprats, 56
Smelts, pickled, 101
―― potted, 105
Snipes and woodcocks, potted, 116
Sprats, marinated, 104
Shrimps, essence of, 128
Sausage spice (French), 132
Syrup for preserving fruit, to prepare, 132
Samphire, green, pickled, 146
Silver onions, pickled, 148
Syrup d’Orgeat (French), 174

Tench and Carp, marinated, 93
Tomatoes paste, 129
―― catsup, 130
―― „ 172
Tripe, Birmingham and Oxford, 75
Trout and grayling, marinated, 97
―― potted, 117
Turbot fins, 60

Veal Marinated, 125
―― „ 126
Vinegar, elder flower, 173
―― tarragon, 173
―― white gooseberry, 174

Walnuts, pickled, 164
―― preserved, 149
―― green, pickled, 163
―― catsup, 170

Yorkshire Pressed Pork, 74

THE END.