Chapter X: Preface (4)

This Fumigator is a tin box, somewhat like a pepper box upon a foot. It is a simple adaptation of the fumigating apparatus described by Mr. Nutt, and is used in the following manner. Have a straw hive or other vessel ready, that will match in circumference the hive intended to be fumigated. If the empty hive have a conical top, it will not remain crown downwards without a rest; in this case, it will be convenient to invert it on a pail. Having ascertained that the hive to be operated upon and the empty one in its reversed position nearly match in size, take half a packet of the prepared fungus, fire it well, and place it in the box or fumigator; placing this in the centre of the empty hive, then bring the occupied hive directly over, so as to receive the fumes of smoke. To keep all close, put a wet cloth round the place where the two hives meet. In a minute or two the bees may be heard dropping heavily into the lower empty hive, where they lie stupefied. After a little while, the old hive may be tapped upon to make the bees fall more quickly. On removing the upper hive, the bees from it will be found lying quiet at the bottom of the lower one. Place a sheet on the ground, and spread the bees on it, then with a feather sort them over, in order to pick out the queen-bee. As soon as the queen is found, then pour the rest of the lethargic swarm from off the sheet back into the inverted hive again. The stupefied bees must now be sprinkled freely with a syrup made of honey and water, or sugar and ale boiled together. Some apiarians recommend a few drops of peppermint to be mixed with the syrup, in order to drown the peculiar odour which is special to each hive of bees,--this is more necessary when two hives of bees are fumigated and whilst under the influence of smoke are well mixed together. The hive containing the bees with which it is intended to unite the stupefied bees, must now be placed on the top of that containing the latter, just as the hive was from which they have come. A wet cloth must be fastened round the two hives, so as to prevent any of the bees from escaping. The hives in this position must be placed where they are not likely to be knocked down or meddled with. The fresh bees in the upper hive, attracted by the scent of the bees besmeared with honey, go down and commence to lick off the sweets from the sprinkled sleepy ones. The latter gradually revive, when all get mingled together, and ascend in company to the upper hive, where they live as if they had not been separate families.

The two hives should be left undisturbed for twenty-four hours, then the upper hive may be removed and placed immediately on the spot from whence it was brought. The reason the queen is recommended to be taken is to prevent any fighting.

The queen should be kept alive and fed as long as she will live, in case any harm should befall the sovereign of the other community.

THE FUMIGATOR. No. 12.

The Fumigator is useful for several purposes. When a frame hive has to be disturbed it is requisite to raise the lid and blow a little smoke into the hive, so as to check the angry passions of the bees. If it be desirable to stupefy the bees, ignited fungus must be placed in the box, and the flattened end applied to the entrance of the hive; the smoke is then blown in--either with bellows or by applying the mouth of the operator,--taking care to close all openings through which the smoke can escape. The bees fall down stupefied, generally in about ten minutes, but the effect varies according to the populousness of the hive and the quantity of comb in it. The projected operations must now be performed speedily, as activity will soon be regained. See preceding directions.

THE BEE DRESS OR PROTECTOR. No. 31.

All operations connected with the removal or the hiving of bees should be conducted with calmness and circumspection. Bees, although the busiest of creatures, have great dislike to fussiness in their masters, and become irritable at once if the apiarian lets them see that he is in a hurry. Hence, there is great advantage in having the face and hands covered whilst at work amongst the bees; for when the operator knows he cannot possibly be stung, he can then open his hives, take out the combs, gather in his swarms, or take the honey, with all the deliberation of a philosopher. Various kinds of bee dresses have been contrived; one that we keep ready in stock is of very simple construction. It is made of strong _black net_, in shape like an inverted bag, large enough to allow of a gentleman's wide-awake or a lady's hat being worn underneath. The projection of the hat or cap causes the dress to stand off from the face; and the meshes of the net, though much too small for a bee to penetrate, are wide enough to allow of clear vision for the operator. An elastic band secures the dress round the waist; the sleeves also--made of durable black calico--are secured at the wrists by a similar method. The hands of the bee-master may be effectually protected with a pair of India-rubber gloves, which should be put on before the dress is fastened round the wrists. This kind of glove is regularly used by photographers, and allows of perfect ease in manipulation.

Thus a very simple and inexpensive means of protection will enable even a novice in bee-keeping to make his observations and conduct his experiments under a sense of perfect security. Still he need not be careless as to the feelings of his bees; his success and their comfort will be promoted by his "handling them gently, and as if he loved them." "Familiarity" between bees and their master "breed" not "contempt," but affection.

Any sudden or clumsy movement which jars the combs or frames will excite the bees, and if but one should be crushed, the odour of their slaughtered comrade rouses them to a pitch of exasperation. Their powers of smell are very acute. The best time for most operations is in the middle of a fine day.

ENGRAVED PRESSING ROLLER. No. 46.

FOR THE GUIDANCE OF BEES IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF HONEY-COMB ON THE BARS.

This is an engraved metal roller, which when applied to the coated underside of a comb-bar leaves an impression like the diagram shown. The wax having been spread on the flat bar, the roller, heated by being put into hot water, is then heavily pressed over it. The roller has two wood handles, so that considerable pressure may be given to it. The roller is a little less than 2 inches in diameter, ⅞ of an inch wide, and the length from handle to handle is 6 inches. The diagram shows the full size of the impressions as left on the wax after passing the roller along the comb bar in the manner above described. It is a contrivance invented in Switzerland, and exhibited in the International Exhibition of 1862, when the pattern roller was purchased by ourselves.

The bars of a hive prepared with these markings in wax afford ready made foundations for regular combs, which very much facilitate the operations of the bees.

IMPRESSED WAX SHEETS FOR ARTIFICIAL COMB.

These artificial partition walls for combs are sheets of genuine wax, about the substance of thin cardboard. They receive rhomboidal impressions by being pressed between two metal plates, carefully and mathematically prepared and cast so that the impressions are exactly the same size as the base of the cells of a honey-comb. An inspection of a piece of comb will show that the division of the opposite cells is made by a thin partition wall common to both; now the substance of this is said to be only the one hundred and eightieth part of an inch, whilst the artificial ones we are recommending are between the thirtieth and fortieth part of an inch, more than four times the thickness of the handy-work of the bees themselves. It would, indeed, be vain to attempt to furnish sheets of wax at all approaching their own delicate fabric; the impressed sheets are quite as thin as they can be to bear the handling which is requisite for fixing them in the hives. We find, however, that the thickness is no disadvantage; the bees speedily excavate and _pare the artificial sheet_ so as to suit their _own_ notions of the substance required; then, with admirable economy, they use the surplus thus obtained for the construction of the cells. After a sheet has been partly worked at by the bees, it is interesting to hold it up to the light and observe the beautiful transparency of that part of it contrasted with the opaqueness of the part not yet laboured upon.

When it is considered, as writers tell us, that more than fourteen pounds of honey are required for the secretion and elaboration of a single pound of comb, it will not be difficult to form a just estimate of the value of this invention, which thus furnishes cheap and excellent assistance to our industrious favorites. It also shows the bee-keeper that all clean empty combs should be carefully preserved, and considered as valuable stock. Another great advantage that it affords us is, that it renders us independent of _guide comb_, which is not always obtainable. When a sheet or a strip of this impressed wax is properly fixed to the comb bar, it is _certain_ to be the guide and foundation of a straight comb. This invention has been derived from Germany, where it has been adopted many years with success. At the International Exhibition of 1862, we purchased the metal plates or castings, so as to manufacture the impressed sheets with which we are now able to supply our customers; and, after the careful trials we have made, we have great confidence in recommending them.

In the season of 1863 we furnished a Woodbury glass super with the wax sheets fixed to the bars, in the manner hereafter to be explained, and it was truly astonishing to see the rapidity with which these sheets of wax were worked into comb. Receptacles were quickly made ready for the storing of honey, and the new combs soon became beautifully white; for although the artificial wax has a yellow tinge, yet after being worked at and made thinner, it is as good in colour as ordinary combs. For supers we cut the wax plates in half, making one serve for two bars.

We have received from Germany the following directions for the fastening of the artificial plates to the comb bars. Hereafter will be described a plan which we have adopted, and to which preference is given.

(Translation) "The unstamped edge of the plate receives incisions half an inch distant from one another made with a sharp knife, the plate having been a little warmed. Then it is pinched between two equally strong ledges which have been well moistened; the projecting edge of the plate which received the incisions is alternately bent to the right and to the left. The comb bars are well besmeared with artificial sticking wax (a mixture of two parts of wax and one part of American resin), and is well warmed at a fire. Afterwards the besmeared side is laid upon the bent end of the plate, and pressed to it as firmly as possible. A small wooden ledge, besmeared with sticking wax and fastened by means of pressure to the lower edge of the plate, prevents it from bending, which sometimes happens when the bees work it."

To carry out the directions here given, it is necessary to warm the besmeared comb-bar at a fire; the wax plate has also to be warmed. Having tried this plan, and found inconvenience attending it, especially from the wax curling with the heat and the difficulty of making it stick firm,--to say nothing of the uncomfortableness of performing the operation before a fire on a hot day in July,--we began to consider if a little carpentering might not do the work better and more pleasantly, and adopted the following plan:--We split or cut the comb bars of the Woodbury super in half lengthways, and taking the unstamped edge between the two strips, join them together again by small screws at the side, confining the wax plate tightly in the centre, with no possibility of its falling down. Where frames are used, of course, the bar could not be cut in two (except with the "compound bar and frame," where the bar being loose, it might be as easily managed). The plan we adopt with an ordinary frame is to saw out an opening about an inch, or an inch and a half from either end where the sides are morticed in; this opening we make with a keyhole saw. Through it the wax plate is easily put, and with a heated iron passed over the upper side of the bar, is made sufficiently firm. If the wax plates are too large, a portion may easily be cut off; an opening of full 11 inches long can be made without materially weakening the bar and frame.

The wax plates must not extend to the bottom of the frame; a space of at least one inch should be left for expansion, because the bees in working the plate stretch it down lower. We also use a few pins firmly pressed into the frames, and long enough to reach the edge of the plate, for by fixing three or four pins on either side, both at the sides and at the bottom, the plate may be held in an exactly central position within the frame. As before mentioned, when these directions are carried out, there is no fear of being troubled with crooked combs on bars.

The secretion of wax, and the method of its adaptation by the bees, is thus admirably described by Evans:--

Thus filtered through yon flatterer's folded mail
Clings the cooled wax, and hardens to a scale.
Swift at the well-known call, the ready train
(For not a buzz boon Nature breathes in vain,)
Spring to each falling flake, and bear along
Their glossy burdens to the builder throng.
These, with sharp sickle, or with sharper tooth,
Pare each excrescence, and each angle smooth,
Till now, in finish'd pride, two radiant rows
Of snow-white cells one mutual base disclose;
Six shining panels gird each polish'd round,
The door's fine rim, with waxen fillet bound,
_While walls so thin, with sister walls combined,
Weak in themselves, a sure dependance find._
* * * * *
Others in firm phalanx ply their twinkling feet,
Stretch out the ductile mass, and form the street,
With many a cross-way, path, and postern gate,
That shorten to their range the spreading state.

IV. MANIPULATION AND USES OF BAR AND FRAME HIVES.

Having at page 36, given a description of the mechanical arrangements of bar and frame hives, the next thing is to describe the mode of introducing the bees, and of thus bringing the humane and scientific hives into operation. The swarm should be first hived into a common straw hive from the bough or shrub upon which they may have alighted; place this hive,--into which we will suppose the bees have been shaken,--on the ground, propped up on one side with a brick or a flower pot, or anything of the sort that may be handy, in order that straggler bees may join the swarm. The spot selected for this should be as shady an one as can be found, near to the place where the swarm settled; or it may be shaded from the rays of the sun by fixing matting on two poles so as to prevent the heat falling on the hive; spread a sheet or cloth on the ground where an even surface can be obtained; stake this sheet down at the four corners, to prevent ruts and inequalities, which are great hindrances to the bees going into the bar and frame hive; place the latter upon the sheet without its floorboard, having its front raised on blocks or sticks rather more than an inch,--not more, otherwise the bees will cluster and attach themselves to the lower part of the frames instead of going up between. These preparations will perhaps occupy ten minutes, by which time the swarm will have become settled and tolerably quiet. Then with a sharp rap precipitate the bees out of the straw hive on to the sheet immediately in front of the frame hive; give the straw hive another knock so as to dislodge all the bees, and then take it quite away, otherwise they may, if it be left near, perversely choose to go into that instead of the one desired. In some cases, as when the swarm has to be brought from a distance, and procured from a cottager about whose skill in carrying out these directions there may be misgivings, it is best to give instructions that the swarm be brought home after sunset, and then the foregoing directions for inducing the bees to tenant the frame-hive may be better carried out; for ourselves, we much prefer the evening for the purpose. A little water sprinkled over them from a watering pot is likely to induce the bees to quit the ground and go up into the hive more quickly.

Mr. Langstroth, in his admirable book "The Hive and Honey Bee," writes "If they are too dilatory in entering the new hive, they may be gently separated with a spoon or leafy twig, where they gather in bunches on the sheets or they may be carefully 'spooned up' and shaken out close to the front of the hive. As these go in with fanning wings, they will raise a peculiar note, which communicates to their companions that they have found a home, and in a short time the whole swarm will enter, without injury to a single bee." In the _Journal of Horticulture_, Mr. Woodbury says "If combs be fixed in the frames, the crown board may be removed, and the cluster knocked out of the straw hive on to the top of the exposed frames. The bees will disappear between them with the utmost alacrity, delighted to have met with a ready furnished dwelling, and the top or crown board having been replaced, the hive should at once be removed to the position it is intended permanently to occupy."

No one should attempt these operations without being protected by a _bee dress_, and a pair of India-rubber gloves,--such as those used by photographers,--which are sting proof. Some persons also take the precaution of tying strings round the ankles of the trowsers, lest some straggler should determine to attack the outposts of the enemy, which, to say the least, might perplex the operator in the midst of his task. Elastic India-rubber bands are good for this purpose, or a pair of "knickerbockers" would be useful. If Wellington boots are worn, the trowsers may be tucked within the leather, in which case no bee can molest the operator, and no string or band will be needed. Practice makes perfect in bee tending as in other matters, and when a light hand is gained, there is little danger of the apiarian being stung.

If the weather be wet the next day or so after hiving, it will be well to give a little assistance to the new colony in the shape of food, for although when a swarm leaves a hive almost every bee composing it fills itself with honey, we have known not a few instances in case of very wet weather, in which the whole swarm has been starved for the want of this little timely help. Of course, the first work of the bees is to build themselves combs, and these combs being produced by the secretion of wax from honey, a great drain upon their resources immediately begins, and any little outlay at this juncture is abundantly compensated by its enabling these industrious emigrants the more quickly to push, forward the furnishing of their new home. Clean combs from hives that may have lost their bees are readily accepted, and cause a great saving in time and material to the bees; these combs may easily be fixed by cutting them the proper size to fit within the frames, and making them firm by tying with tape or fixing them with pliable wire. Artificial comb (see page 70) is often used, and has this advantage, that the combs are certain to be straight and regular, besides the saving in material to the bees.

These preparations must be made prior to the bees being hived, so that when a hive is so prepared, a swarm may begin to adapt whatever advantages they find ready for them; and it is truly marvellous what a swarm will do when thus furnished with combs in their new habitation. In these the queen can immediately begin to deposit her eggs, and the workers to store their honey, without having to wait for the construction of combs, which is a laborious occupation for the bees.

In some cases, fine white combs may be taken from the stock hive; the end frames are always the most free from brood. Care must be exercised not to rob this part of the hive too much; one comb may perhaps be removed in the course of the season without impoverishing the bees, but it is not wise to take more.

Putting on Super Hive.--A colony established a year or more is called a "stock," by way of distinction from a swarm of the present year. Supposing the hive to be a stock, the super should be given them at the early part of the season, say, if fine and warm, at the latter end of April or beginning of May; if the weather be then unfavourable, it is better to delay doing so until a more genial temperature. If the colony be a swarm of the present year, two weeks should be allowed to elapse from the time of tenanting a hive, before putting on the super; this delay is necessary to give the bees the opportunity of building combs in their new domicile, and of getting a store of honey for themselves before working for their master.

When it is wished to use a super, the crown board or roof of the stock hive must be taken away, the thin adapting or honey board taking its place; the two long slits at the sides are to give admission to the super. The bees will begin sooner and work faster if the eight bars are each furnished with artificial comb (as described page 71). We have had depriving hives very quickly filled when the bees were thus assisted. Combs that have been left unfilled may be fixed to the bars as before described; these must be white and clean, as dark comb should not be used for super hives. The combs when filled may be taken out singly, if desired for consumption, substituting an empty bar or comb; or should the bee-keeper desire to see a handsome super, he must wait until the bees have filled and sealed up all the combs, and then he may proceed to deprive them of it as before described.

Taking out Frames with Combs.--It is well for a beginner to practice the directions for opening and shutting up hives by using an empty hive, until he becomes familiar with the handling of the frames.

The first thing to do is to loosen the crown board or lid with a knife, drawing a piece of string underneath it to divide the wax or cement with which the bees make all secure. This string should be drawn through very slowly, so as not to irritate the bees. In hot weather, the crown board may be loosened by a lateral movement; but sometimes, for want of care, this loosening of the lid disturbs the bees, and as soon as it is removed, a number of them, enraged thereby, pour out and attack the operator. This and all other operations ought be done very carefully and gently; especial care should be taken not to prise the lid upwards, by way of wrenching it off, for the frames and combs are generally secured thereto, and there is a liability of rending the combs with it; this will greatly irritate the bees, and be otherwise injurious. When a hive of bees is enraged, there is little chance of pacifying them; it is best, under such circumstances to 'give in' at once, and not attempt to perform any operation, but to shut the hive up and beat a retreat, benefiting by the experience so as to do better in a day or so afterwards. There are various devices for intimidating or conciliating the bees, and one of these already spoken of is--smoke. So next time the experimenter makes his attempt let bill! raise the lid an inch or so, and blow a few puffs of smoke into the hive, which will cause the bees to retreat. This is best done by using our No. 12 fumigator, with a little of the prepared fungus lighted. Pipes or cigars are not convenient to use for this purpose when the head is enveloped in the dress. As soon as the lid is removed, a few bees will fly out to learn the cause of such an interference. Conciliation should then be introduced by having at hand a little sweetened water, which may be sprinkled, or rather let drop from a feather or brush. The sudden motion of the hand required in the act of sprinkling irritates the bees, so that instead of making them our friends, they may become our foes. Mr. Langstroth recommends that a fine watering pot filled with sweetened water, be used for the purpose. Care must be taken not to drench the bees; only just sufficient should be given to run down the sides of the combs as well as sprinkling the top. As soon as the bees really understand that syrup is being given them, they feast upon it instead of angrily attacking the operator. Thus pacified, and with gentle treatment, but little difficulty will be found in proceeding with the work required. But the unskilled operator should on no account neglect to put on a bee-dress and gloves as described above. We would err on the side of caution, although there is an old saying that "a cat in gloves catches no mice," and the apiarian will find that his fingers are not so free to work as he would like, for gloves make them rather clumsy in drawing up the frames.

The frames must now be gently prised from front to rear; this may be done with a small screw-driver or other stout instrument with a wedged end to go into the notches. The frames fit loosely so as to allow of a little movement from back to front; a lateral or side-way movement might kill the queen; or if not so fatal as that, might crush some of the bees and injure the brood combs, and must be carefully avoided. It, of course, depends upon what the operation is that has to be performed whether or no all the frames should be thus loosened. If it be for making artificial swarms, or for any purpose requiring an interview with her majesty, the whole of them must be loosened, because it often happens that all the combs have to be examined, sometimes twice over, before she can be discovered. Bees are very apt to build their combs in a slightly waving form, and in extracting one it will be needful to make room both for the comb and bees upon it to pass without scraping the next comb, and there will be a difficulty if the apiarian attempts to draw out one comb whilst the other frames are located in their appropriate notches. Let the operator gently proceed to lift say the third frame (allowing it to lodge on the little block that divides the notches) a little nearer to the fourth frame, and the second nearer the third, so as to admit of sufficient space to lift out the end one. Very carefully and slowly he should lift the frame by taking hold with thumb and finger of the projecting shoulders that rest in the notch; and he must not let it touch or scrape the next frame or the sides of the hive so as to crush or irritate any bees.

After the end comb is thus removed, it will be easy to extract the others, as there will now be plenty of room for drawing them out. A hive of exactly the same size should be at hand; and in case it be desired to remove the combs and bees into another hive, care should be taken that each comb occupies the same relative position that it did in the old hive.

In handling the frames, bear in mind that they are to be held perpendicularly. To gain a view of both sides of the comb when searching for the queen, or for any purpose requiring full inspection, with a little dexterity in twirling the frame round, the reverse side may be brought to face the operator, without letting the comb break away by its own weight and so fall out of the frame, which it will do if allowed to deviate from its upright or downright position. If the operator could see an experienced person perform the operation, he would quickly understand how combs may thus be handled without any risk of a smash.

When placing frames in the hive, care must be taken not to crush a bee between the projecting shoulders of the frame and the rabbets or notches on which they rest, and on no account must the frame be let down with a jerk, or the bees will become exceedingly fierce: the frame should be so slowly deposited in its place that a bee on feeling the slightest pressure may have the opportunity of escaping unhurt thereby. The crown board should be replaced by first resting its front edge in its place, and then slowly lowering the after part, looking carefully under, and momentarily raising it when necessary to avoid crushing a bee. Should the hive have its super on, the same directions may be followed. The super with its honey board may be bodily taken away, and so placed and confined for a time that robber bees cannot find an entrance, and also be far enough from the apiarian to be out of danger of being broken or overturned by him.

Advantages of Bar and Frame Hives.--It will be asked why all this trouble about bar and frames with straight combs built upon them? We have shown the full command which the bee-keeper has over a hive so constituted, and we now proceed to show how in skilful hands these advantages may be used successfully; though, in the hands of the unpractised and unskilful the contrary may be the result.

All the bars and frames in an apiary ought to be of precisely the same dimensions, so as to fit every hive. This is essential for the strengthening of weak hives. A hive that is weakly may often be advantageously strengthened by having put into it a comb of brood from a populous stock, to which an empty frame from the weak one may be given; no bees must be on the brood-comb--these should be shaken off or gently dislodged with a feather into the hive from which the comb is taken. The frames of the hive from which the comb has been taken, should be, one by one, placed so as to fill in the vacancy, leaving the empty frame nearest the side. When a hive has been in use many years, the combs become very black, and every bee that is bred in a cell leaves a film behind. It may be understood how in this way the cells become contracted, so that the bees that are bred in them are correspondingly reduced in size. After the lapse of say five years, it may be necessary to begin to remove the old combs. This may be done by cutting away the comb or by substituting an empty frame for one with old black comb, gradually moving the frames towards each other. By taking two away in this manner in the spring or summer of every season, the combs in course of five years may all be reconstructed and fresh clean ones be secured for breeding in, instead of the old black ones that otherwise would remain as long as the stock could live in the hive.

Artificial Swarming.--Every bee-keeper knows the anxiety there is in watching and expecting a swarm to come forth, fearful lest his favorites should, "like riches, take wing and fly away," a mischance that it is desirable to prevent. In our description of natural swarming this will be found fully treated of; we propose here merely to point out how, with the moveable frames, this work of nature may be assisted--we say assisted, because artificial swarming should, as nearly as possible, resemble natural swarming, that is, it should be performed at the same time of the year, and when the populous state of the hive makes a division desirable. This is easily known to be the case when bees hang out in clusters at the entrance, wasting their time in enforced idleness instead of being abroad gathering honey. It is also necessary that the hive contain drones.

An empty hive should be placed on the stand when the living hive is removed, for the purpose of amusing returning bees. If the hive is kept in a bee-house, the entrance should be shut down unto the hive is restored, when the clustered bees may be at once admitted.

When such is the state of the hive, the facility of forming an artificial swarm with a moveable frame hive is a decided advantage. The best time for performing the operation is about ten o'clock in the morning of a fine summer's day. The following directions should be carried out:--place ready a counter or bench that is firm and strong, and which has space on it for the inhabited--or rather the over-inhabited--frame hive and the empty one, which is about to be made the receptacle of a separate stock. The operator having on bee-dress and the other appliances ready, may now open the hive as before described, and proceed to take out the frames, carefully examining both sides of each comb to find the queen: she is generally in the centre of the hive, so that it is not always needful to take out all the ten frames. As they are examined, the frames may be put into the empty hive, and when the object of the bee-master's search is found, he must carefully remove the frame containing her majesty, and may place it temporarily in the empty hive at one end by itself. Next he must proceed to put the frames back into the old hive, closing up the vacancy caused by the removal of the comb with the queen on it, and leave the empty frame at the end. Then he may place the frame containing the queen--with the few bees that may be upon it--in the centre of the empty hive; then putting all the other frames in, and replacing the lid, the bee-master will place this hive in the exact position occupied by the old stock. The bees that are on the wing will go to the old spot, and finding the queen there, they will rally round her and very soon form a sufficient number to constitute a swarm; comb building will at once begin, the frames will in a week or so be filled, and a satisfactory stock will thus be established. By doing this at the right time, just before the bees are about to swarm, or when there are many drones, all the trouble of watching and waiting for them is saved. Mr. Woodbury claims the honour of having originated this mode of artificial swarming; subsequently Mr. Langstroth and others have described a similar process, no doubt originally, as far as they knew, therefore still more useful to us as a confirmation of the value of Mr. Woodbury's discovery.

This operation we performed, exactly as described above, with one of our improved cottage hives one afternoon at the latter end of May, 1862. Whilst inspecting our bees, we caught sight of the queen on the comb in one of the bell glasses. This was a chance not to be missed, and we immediately resolved to form an artificial swarm, for the hive was very full of bees. Besides, being obliged to be away from the apiary most of the week, we were glad of the opportunity of so easily establishing a colony without the uncertainty and trouble of hiving a natural swarm. In the first place we slid a tin under the bell glass, and removing the stock hive from underneath we took it a few feet away; then we placed an empty improved cottage hive where the old stock had stood, and put the glass of comb containing the queen and a few bees over one of the holes in the crown of this new empty hive. The bees that were left abroad, belonging to the old stock returned as usual to their old entrance as they supposed; soon a sufficient number formed a large cluster in the hive and began comb building, the queen remaining in the glass until the cells below were sufficiently numerous for her to deposit her eggs in them. The division answered exceedingly well, both hives prospered; the old hive either had some princesses coming forward to supply the loss of the queen, or the bees used a power that they possess of raising a queen from worker brood in the manner we have previously described.[5]

[Footnote 5: See Section 1, page 5.]

The foregoing account illustrates the successful formation of an artificial swarm; but with a cottage hive it was quite a matter of accident to have been able to get possession of the queen. With a moveable frame hive she can at any suitable time be found.

Precisely the same plan is to be adopted with the old stock in the frame hive as we have described in the case of the cottage hive, that is to remove it some few paces off: when the hives are in a bee-house, a similar result may be attained by placing the new swarm for a day or two to the entrance used by the bees when with the old stock, and the old stock may be removed to an approximate entrance. Some apiarians recommend that a space be left between the two hives, by placing the hives on the right and left of the old entrance, in order that too large a proportion of bees should not enter the new hive at the old position to the impoverishment of the other. But we have found the mode adopted with the cottage hive answer so well, that we see no reason for recommending any different plan.

It is the office of the bee-master to assist, not to go in the least degree contrary to nature. We know that when a natural swarm issues forth it has its impregnated queen, and when located in a new abode commences building worker combs, and leaves the building of the few drone combs to a later period; but if a division of the hive should be made by putting half the combs in one hive and half in another, the hive containing the queenless or embryo queen will busy itself with building only drone comb, thus a number of receptacles for useless bees is provided, which tends to weakness, and eventually to loss of the hive.

In the plan we have recommended for forming two separate families, we nearly follow the natural state of things; the comb that the queen is upon is the only one that is taken from the hive, and this vacancy should be filled in by moving the frames together so as to leave the empty frame at the end. The bees, under the government of the impregnated queen, construct the combs and furnish their new abode, which, as before stated, they will do with worker cells.

By adopting the plan above described, the moveable bar and frame hive will prove far superior to any of the dividing hives, which provide for equal division of the combs.

Perhaps the greatest advantage the moveable frame hive possesses is, that a full knowledge can be attained of its exact state as regards the queen, the population and the quantity of food in stock. During weather of a genial temperature, the combs may on any fine day be inspected, and thus a knowledge being gained of the deficiency existing in a hive, the necessary means may be adopted for supplying the want. Sometimes such an examination will verify the fears of the bee-keeper, when, having observed that his bees have ceased to carry in pollen, he has thereby received warning that the queen has been lost at some juncture when no successor to the throne could be provided. Such a hive has entered on a downward course, and will dwindle away entirely unless a queen should be given to it, or else, some combs containing young brood not more than three days old. By the latter method the bee-keeper will gain an opportunity of seeing the bees set about their wonderful process of raising a queen from the brood thus provided for them.

When a bee-keeper has become skilful in his calling, he may be desirous to encourage the breeding of queens, or rather of preventing their destruction. He will seek to use the propagating instincts of the worker bees as a set off against that innate hatred of rivalry which prompts the reigning queen to kill the tender royal brood.

Hives found to be queenless may be supplied either with matured queens or with queen cells. If the latter are sufficiently numerous, their introduction may easily be effected by exchanging a comb in each hive; if they have to be cut out and placed loosely in the new hive, a triangular piece of comb should then be removed with them, to be used as a block in preventing any pressure coming on them. A space must be cut out of the middle in the centre combs of the hive into which they are to be introduced. Special care must be taken not to bruise the royal embryos, as they are particularly sensitive to pressure.

A very great advantage that the Woodbury bar and frame-hive possesses, is the safety and convenience with which a stock of bees can in it be transported to any part of the kingdom; and, by a few additional arrangements, stocks have been sent in it to distant countries. In many districts hives are removed to moors and heaths in autumn, for the purpose of gathering heather honey. In this operation the frames are a great support to the combs, very much lessening the risk of a break down and consequent loss.

From a hive that has been inhabited all the winter, we have not unfrequently lifted out the frames and removed the stock to a clean hive, and we believe that the change has always been useful. The bees find a clean floorboard and a clean hive to breed in, free from insects that may have harboured in crevices about the hive. When the change has been made, the old hive can be thoroughly cleaned, and used in the same way for making the exchange with another stock. The process for handling will, of course, be the same as before described. We have found that where this plan has been carried out, that the bees seem to progress faster. Perhaps a little stirring up may be useful in arousing them from the winter doze; the time we recommend for doing this is the beginning of April, but a fine warm day should be chosen.

DRIVING.

Driving is an operation by which bees are induced to vacate an old settled hive and to enter an empty one. Many apiarians prefer this mode of effecting an exchange of hives to the plan of fumigating the bees.

The greatest success attending such a transfer will be in the case of hives well filled with combs that are worked nearly to the floorboard; and it may be remarked that bees are generally so far provident, that they leave an open space in which to pass underneath their combs over all the floor of the hive. When the old hive is inverted, the bees crawl up the combs, and thus more easily pass up into the new hive, which the operator places over the old one with the intent that they should enter it.

The best time for performing this operation is about the middle of the day, and when the weather is warm. It is essential that the operator be protected with a bee-dress and gloves, as before described; and previous to commencing his task, he must provide all necessary implements. These are:--a couple of hives, one of which should correspond in shape and size with the hive from which the bees are to be driven; a cloth to tie round at the junction when the new hive is placed on the old one; some string to keep the cloth in its place; an empty pail to receive the top of the old hive, if one of the old conical shape, but if the stock of bees is in a square box hive with a flat top, a firm stool will be the best; and a No. 12 fumigator with some fungus, which will complete the material of war. The bucket or stool must be placed securely on the ground about a yard from the place where the full hive stands; then a few puff's of smoke being blown in amongst the bees, will cause them to retreat up amongst the combs. The bee-master will now turn the hive[6] upside down very gently, letting it rest in the pail or on the stool; he then quickly places the empty hive over the full one, and ties the cloth round it to prevent any escape of the bees. If the cloth be damped, it will cling the closer to the hives. The third hive is intended to be placed on the stand formerly occupied by the stock, so as to retain the few returning bees which had been absent in the fields. Care must be taken that all crevices through which it is possible for the bees to escape from the united hives should be effectually closed. When the two are fairly united, the operator will proceed by rapping the full hive gently with the hands or a couple of sticks, more particularly on that side where the combs are the most thickly placed--that is, if the hive be not equally filled.

[Footnote 6: Care should be exercised in turning the hives over to keep the combs vertical, or they are likely to break from their foundations.]

It generally happens that in about fifteen minutes the bees regularly commence the ascent; their exodus will be known by the distinct rushing sound which is always noticed when a colony of bees is on the move. The first thing bees do when disturbed is to till their honey bags, as they invariably do at swarming time, consequently after the first rush into the new hive is over, as in the case of a swarm, the "flitting" bees are not much disposed to take wing. When the noise made by the ascending bees has been heard, and has in good degree subsided, the cloth may be removed, and the old hive, now deserted, may be taken indoors, and if a few bees yet remain, they may be brushed off with a feather. An experienced apiarian on first hearing the rushing noise before mentioned, will not hesitate to tilt the top hive over a little on one side, so that he may watch the bees during the ascent; the queen may be seen passing up, and if the operator desires to take her away, he can secure her by placing a wine glass over her. This expedient is often resorted to in the autumn when stocks are to be united, for in such a case the removal of the queen prevents some fighting.

If the taking of the honey be the object of the bee-master, then "driving" is manifestly a better plan than to resort to the fumes of sulphur for the purpose; for the bees from whom their store is taken, can be joined to stocks that are weak in numbers, with considerable advantage to the future prosperity of the apiary.

When the removed bees are to be joined to another stock, the operator will proceed as follows:--At dusk, dislodge the bees on to a cloth, sprinkle them with sweet syrup, and place the hive to which it is intended to join them, over the mass; they will gradually ascend into the hive placed for them, and early next morning the hive, with its slender stock thus augmented, may be removed to its stand. Should the operator not have been successful, or not sufficiently skilful to gain possession of the queen, he may leave it to the bees themselves to decide which queen they will have. By this plan of "driving," artificial swarms may be secured by an "expert" even in common hives, though those do not afford the facilities for such a purpose as do the bar, or bar-and-frame, hives.

CHANGING OLD STOCKS TO NEW HIVES.

We frequently find that the possessor of a stock of bees in a cottager's common straw hive is desirous of removing the whole stock of bees and comb into one of our improved hives, in which the honey may be obtained without the destruction of the bees. We mostly discourage such a transfer, attended as it is with much labour, and requiring a considerable amount of apiarian skill. An old fashioned hive may very readily be rendered a humane one, simply by cutting out with a sharp pointed knife the middle of the top of the hive; a piece may thus easily be taken out, so as to leave a round hole two or three inches in diameter, but care must be taken that the knife does not penetrate much below the straw, lest it reach the comb or the bees--and it will be safer for the operator to have a bee-dress on. There should be ready a round adapting board, with a corresponding hole, which may be secured on the top by putting four long nails through the same number of holes in the board; then a cap hive or a glass may be placed on the top, for the purpose of admitting the bees, who will soon crowd therein to work.

This hive or glass will form a super or depriving hive, and can be worked as profitably as most of the improved hives. Per the sake of an improved appearance, an outside case, either of zinc, straw, or wood, may be dropped over all, and then, if well painted, the whole will form no disfigurement to any flower garden.