Chapter I: Front Matter

Transcriber's notes:

Variations in spelling, punctuation, and hyphenation have been
retained; typographical errors have been silently corrected.

+Plus signs+ have been used to indicate small caps; _underscores_
has been used to identify italics.

"_FROM WHERE THE SUN NOW STANDS, I FIGHT NO MORE AGAINST THE WHITE MAN._"]

OUTDOOR LIFE and
INDIAN STORIES

MAKING OPEN AIR LIFE
ATTRACTIVE TO YOUNG AMERICANS

BY TELLING THEM ALL ABOUT WOODCRAFT, SIGNS AND SIGNALING, THE
STARS, FISHING, CAMPING, CAMP COOKING, HOW TO TIE KNOTS AND HOW
TO MAKE FIRE WITHOUT MATCHES, AND MANY OTHER FASCINATING OPEN AIR
PURSUITS

----ALSO----

STORIES OF NOTED HUNTERS AND SCOUTS

GREAT INDIANS AND WARRIORS, INCLUDING DANIEL BOONE, KIT CARSON,
GENERAL CUSTER, PONTIAC, TECUMSEH, KING PHILIP, BLACK HAWK, BRANDT,
SITTING BULL, AND A HOST OF OTHERS WHOSE NAMES ARE FAMOUS

ALL OF THEM TRUE AND INTERESTING

BY EDWARD S. ELLIS

Author of the Celebrated "Ellis Books" of Adventure, "The Deerfoot
Series," "Youth's History of the United States," Etc., Etc.

PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED
WITH LITHOGRAPH COLOR PLATES, HALF-TONE
ENGRAVINGS AND LINE DRAWINGS

+Copyright 1912+

By L. T. MYERS

CONTENTS

+Outdoor Life for Young Americans+ 9

How to Live in the Woods

+Making a Camp+ 10

How to Build a Lean-To

+How to Make Fire Without Matches+ 11

Using the Fire-Drill

+How to Get Pure Water+ 13

The Indian Filter

+How to Cook in Camp+ 15

Utensils and Simple Recipes

+How to Make a Bow and Arrow+ 17

A Safe and Powerful Weapon

+How to Read Signs and Signals+ 19

Indian Signs and the Wig-Wag System

+How to Tie Knots+ 22

All the Best Knots Explained and Illustrated

+How to Find Your Way by the Stars+ 26

The Heavens at Night

+What to Do in Case of Accident+ 27

First Aid to the Injured

+The Original Americans+ 33

The Indian Tribes

+The Original Emperors of Virginia+ 40

Powhatan and Opecancanough

+The Great Conspiracy+ 54

A Wily Chieftain and His Secret

+Adventures in New England+ 61

The Indians and the Pilgrims

+The Uncrowning of a King+ 76

Philip's Adventures and Death

+A Man of Mark Among the Delawares+ 98

Story of Tammany, White Eyes, and Captain Pipe

+The Greatest of Indian Conspirators+ 106

Pontiac, Chief of the Ottawas

+A Besieged Garrison+ 121

The Attack on Detroit

+A Good Indian+ 129

Little Carpenter, the Cherokee

+A Mighty Mingo Chieftain+ 135

Logan, the Orator and Warrior

+An Indian Demosthenes+ 144

Red Jacket, the Seneca

+Little Turtle+ 149

First an Enemy, then a Friend

+Warrior and Knight+ 159

Buckongahelas, the Delaware Chief

+A Famous Mohawk Chief+ 169

Adventure of Brandt, the Half-Breed

+A Chieftain on the Warpath+ 176

Adventures of Tecumseh, the Shawanoe

+Adventures of Weatherford+ 192

Chief of the Creek Confederacy

+Fighting Against Fate+ 202

Black Hawk and His War

+The Hero of the Everglades+ 219

Osceola and the Seminole War

+Sitting Bull, the Medicine Man+ 233

The Last Great Indian Uprising

OUTDOOR LIFE FOR YOUNG AMERICANS

What boy can resist the call of the woods, the desire to know the forest and its furred and feathered inhabitants, the fish, the insects, the plants? But to gather this knowledge in safety the boy must first learn the ways of the woods, the life of the camper, how to cook and find his way by the stars, how to tie knots and what to do in case of accident, the language of signs and the secrets of the trail.

There is no better way to do this than to study the methods of the Indians, the most expert woodsmen the world has known. At their call the forest produced food, drink, clothes, ornaments and all the necessities of life. Let us see how they managed this.

Making a Camp

The first thing to be considered on going into the forest is the camp where the night is to be spent. In choosing a place for this see that there is fresh water, wood for the fire and brush-wood for building a "lean-to," or hut, at hand. It is well to build on a dry, level place, with just enough slope to the ground to insure the water running away in case of rain. The Indians used to live in huts thatched with brush-wood, and these are best made by building what is known as a "lean-to."

Look for two trees standing from eight to ten feet apart on your camping place, with branches from six to eight feet above the ground. By placing a pole from one tree to the other in the crotches and leaning other poles against this one, brush-wood can be woven in to form a very good roof. Branches of the balsam or hemlock are best for this purpose, and the needles should point down. It is well to collect as many soft, thick tips of trees of this character as possible, both for the thatching and to make the beds. Cover the floor of the "lean-to" with these tips thickly and lay the rubber blankets on top, rubber side down. Be sure to make the head of your bed toward the inside and away from the opening. You will find that this makes a very comfortable bed.

How to Make Fire Without Matches

In olden times, before the Indians had matches, and even before they had the flint and steel that our grandfathers used for making fire, they used rubbing-sticks. Many people have tried to make fire in this manner, but few have succeeded. As a matter of fact, it is not a very difficult thing to do if you know how, as the Indians did. In fact, they grew so expert that they could make fire almost as quickly as we can strike a match. The easiest and surest method of doing this is to use the bow-drill. The tools necessary consist of a bow, or bent stick, about two feet long, with a stout leather cord attached to each end. The drill consists of a straight piece of wood pointed at each end. One end of this rests in a drill-socket, which is simply a piece of wood with a small notch in it for the top of the fire-drill. This piece of wood is held in the hand, while the other end of the fire-drill is placed in the fire-board. This consists of a thin piece of wood with small pits cut about half an inch from the edge, and with a notch extending from the edge into the middle of the pit. The leather thong is given a single turn about the fire-drill and then by drawing the bow backward and forward the drill is caused to rotate very rapidly in the fire-board. After a short while the dust which comes out of the notch grows hot and becomes a glowing coal, which can be easily ignited into a blazing fire.

There are many ways of building a camp fire, but the Indian's way is the best. The Indians always used to laugh at the white men because they said that they built such a big fire they could not get near it, while the Indian built a little fire and could get close to it. The fire must be built systematically. First, get dry, small dead branches, twigs, fir branches and other inflammable material and place these loosely on the ground, being sure that the air can draw under and upward through the mass. Next place some heavier sticks in the form of a pyramid with the tops of the sticks close together, and so on, until you have built the camp fire to the required size. Take every care to prevent the spreading of the fire, and do not build it too close to the tent or to inflammable pine trees. There is always danger of starting a disastrous forest fire by carelessness with a small camp fire. Remember that it is criminal to leave a burning fire, and always to put the fire out with water or earth. If the fire is to be used for cooking, it is well to confine the heat between two large logs, or, if baking is to be done on it, it is best to build an oven with large stones. But the Indians were usually content with open fire.

How to Get Pure Water

A very necessary item for the camp is pure water. If this cannot be obtained from a nearby spring which has good, clear water, or from a clean stream, it is possible to filter it in the same way that the Indians did. They had a way of purifying water from a pond or swamp by digging a hole about one foot across and down about six inches below the water level, a few feet from the pond. After it was filled with water they baled it out quickly, repeating the baling process about three times. After the third baling the hole would fill with filtered water.

If there is a stream at hand large enough to swim in, it is well to remember that if you work your hands and kick your feet you can stay above water for some time, even with your clothes on. Do not make the mistake of going into the water too soon after eating, for cramps are apt to result, causing a serious accident. The Indians have a method of protecting themselves from cramps. Coming to a bathing pool, the Indian swimmer, before entering the water, vigorously rubs the pit of his stomach with the dry palm of his hand. This rubbing probably takes a minute; then he dashes cold water all over his stomach, and continues the rubbing for another minute; and after that he is ready for his plunge.

How to Cook in Camp

The problems of the camp cook are not nearly so great as they seem at first glance. The essential thing is to select your cooking equipment and supplies wisely and learn a few simple recipes in advance. An excellent cooking kit for a long outing is composed of the following utensils: One 12-inch frying pan, one coffee pot, one 6-quart pail, one can opener, six air-tight canisters for coffee, tea, sugar, salt, etc., a knife, fork, teaspoon, tablespoon, plate, bowl and cup for each person in the party. All of these may be nested in a 12-quart pail, which will be found useful in many ways about the camp. If only a short hike is to be taken, however, a much smaller kit may be taken. An ideal kit for this purpose is used by the United States Army and may be obtained from outfitters or army stores anywhere. This consists of a frying pan and plate which can be locked together by the handle of the frying pan to form a baker. In this a knife, fork and spoon can be carried. With the addition of a canteen and large tin cup, this kit can be made to perform wonders in the cooking line on a trip of several days' duration. For a longer trip the larger kit is recommended.

The supplies to be taken along depend upon the tastes of the campers, the length of the trip and the convenience of transportation. Of course, if the trip is to be made by water it is easier to manage a greater weight than would be the case if it must be carried, a point to be kept in mind in selecting the supplies.

For a trip of about one week the following supplies are advised in quantities to suit the number of people in the party: Coffee, tea, sugar, salt, pepper, condensed milk (unsweetened), lard, bacon, flour, baking soda, bread and potatoes. This list can be enlarged to advantage by the addition of a ham, butter (if it can be kept cool), pickles, jam and additional vegetables, but it is well to keep the outfit down to the lowest point consistent with comfort. Eggs should be taken if it is possible to carry them safely. They are now sold in packages which will stand moderately rough handling. Remember that a bed of hot coals is best for cooking, and use dry wood if possible to avoid the smoke. The following recipes will be found easy and practical. Others may be added as the cook grows more expert.

COFFEE

Use 1 tablespoonful of ground coffee for each cup to be made. For five people put 5 tablespoonfuls in pot, add ½ cup cold water and mix with the coffee. Add 4 cups of boiling water and bring to a boil, letting it boil one minute, then add ½ cup of cold water and set near fire where it will keep hot but not boil.

TEA

Use 2 teaspoonfuls of tea to 4 cups of boiling water. Put tea in pot and pour boiling water over it. Never boil tea, but stand in a warm place for five minutes to draw before serving.

BACON

Very useful on account of its fat which can be used to fry fish, potatoes, etc. Slice the bacon thin and put in frying pan. Fry over hot fire until crisp, turning the slices over with a fork from time to time.

POTATOES (BOILED)

Fill pail with water, wash and peel potatoes, boil until tender, take out of water and keep warm until served.

POTATOES (FRIED)

Put 1 teaspoonful of lard in hot frying pan or use fat left over from frying bacon. Peel and slice potatoes. Fry over hot fire.

FRIED FISH

Split the fish down the belly, clean, scale and cut off head and tail. Spread open and fry with lard or bacon fat in hot frying pan.

All of the above can be cooked easily and quickly in camp. It is recommended that bread be taken along, but if it is desired to cook this and other more complicated dishes, one of the many handy cook books on the market should be carried.

How to Make a Bow and Arrow

In early days the Indian did not have the modern hunting rifle, and was compelled to use bow and arrow in the chase. It is well for the modern boy to understand this weapon, for it can be made with ease and much good fun can be had with it. The Indian bow was short, because, though less efficient, it was easier to carry than a long one, yet it did not lack power. We hear that many times Indians shot so hard that their arrows appeared on the far side of the animal, but the long bow, such as was used by the old English archers or bowmen, was much the more powerful. To make the bow take a perfectly sound, straight, well-seasoned stick of about your own height and mark off a space as wide as your hand in the middle for a handle. This space should be left round and about an inch thick. The balance of the stick should be shaved down flat on one side for the front and rounded on the other for the back until it is about one inch wide and three-fourths of an inch thick near the handle, tapering to about half that at the ends, which are then notched for the cord. Next put on the cord and bend it until it is about five inches from the bow at the center. If one end bends more than the other shave the other end until it becomes even. After it is trimmed down to your strength finish it with sand-paper. The best woods to use are apple, black walnut, slippery elm, mountain ash or hickory.

More difficult to make than the bow is the arrow. The Indians made arrows of reeds and of straight shoots of arrow-wood or of elder, but we make better arrows out of hickory or ash. The arrow should be twenty-five inches long, round, and three-eighths of an inch thick. It should be notched at one end to take the bow-string, and just below this notch it should have three feathers set around at equal intervals. These feathers are best made from either turkey or goose wings. With a sharp knife cut a strip of the midrib on which is the vein of the feather; make three pieces, each two to three inches long. The Indians used to leave the midrib projecting at each end, and by these lash the feathers to the arrow without gluing, but it is easier to glue them and the arrows fly better. Indian arrow-heads were made of sharp flints or pieces of stone lashed to the arrow-heads, but the best way to make them now is like the ferrule of an umbrella, as this keeps the shaft from splitting. After this the arrow should be painted, both to keep it from warping and to make it easier to find in the forest by its bright color.

After the bow and arrows are made one must learn to shoot with them. It is well to begin with the target close at hand, and gradually increase the distance as the archer becomes more expert. The Indians generally used their bows at short range so that it was easy to hit the mark, and considered rapid firing more important. In their competitions the prize was given to him who should have the most arrows in the air at once, and it has been said that their record was eight.

How to Read Signs and Signals

The Indians are very expert at using signs to give messages to one another. These signs are made in many ways and vary with the different tribes. Some of those best known are: Shaking a blanket, which means "I want to talk to you." Holding up a knife or other weapon means "war" or "I am ready to fight." Holding up a tree branch, "I want to make peace." Holding up a pole horizontally with both hands on it, "I have found something." Blazes or marks on trees are widely used to communicate messages. A simple blaze or small section of bark cut from a tree is often used to indicate a path through the forest, and if you are going through dense woods and must come back the same way or others are to follow you it is well to use this method of marking the way. Other well-known Indian signs are the water signs. A circle cut in the bark with an arrow-head pointing directly down and three waved lines within the circle means "Good water here." A similar circle with the arrow-head pointing to one side but below the center means "Good water not far in this direction." If the arrow-head is above the center it means "Good water a long way off in this direction." An arrow alone indicates "Go in this direction." An arrow with a rectangular mark on the end means "A letter is concealed three steps in this direction." A cross means "Do not use this path." A circle with a small circle inside, "I have gone home." In addition to the permanent signs the Indians are very expert at "making smoke talk." A fire is built from damp wood which will give off a thick smoke. By holding a blanket over the fire the smoke is caused to rise in short and long puffs which can be made to spell out a message. At night the light of the fire can be made to serve the same purpose. As it is not always convenient to build a fire and the "smoke talk" is not easy to handle it is much better to use a flag and the wig-wag system. First of all it is necessary to memorize the signal code which is given below. The numbers are made by the signal man standing in one position with three motions. Let the signal man stand facing the signal station with which it is desired to communicate with the flag-staff carrying a small square flag held vertically in his hands. A white flag about two and a half feet square with a red square in the center is a good design, but the size depends somewhat on the distance between stations. At night a lantern on a pole or a torch can be used on the same system. To make the first motion ("one" or "1") move the flag as you stand facing the other station to the right and down to the level of your waist, returning it immediately to the vertical position. The second motion ("two" or "2") is the same to the left of the sender. The third motion ("three" or "3") is downward directly in front of the sender and immediately back to the vertical position. Remember that numbers which occur in a message must be spelled to avoid confusion. In sending a message make a slight pause between each letter and if a mistake is made signal 3 followed by 12, 12, 3, and then begin the incorrect word again.

THE WIG-WAG CODE

ALPHABET

A 22
B 2112
C 121
D 222
E 12
F 2221
G 2211
H 122
I 1
J 1122
K 2121
L 221
M 1221
N 11
O 21
P 1212
Q 1211
R 211
S 212
T 2
U 112
V 1222
W 1121
X 2122
Y 111
Z 2222
tion 1112

NUMERALS

1 1111
2 2222
3 1112
4 2221
5 1122
6 2211
7 1222
8 2111
9 1221
0 2112

CONVENTIONAL SIGNALS

End of word 3
End of sentence 33
End of message 333
XX3 beginning or end of numerals.
I understand 22, 22, 3
Cease signalling, 22, 22, 22, 333
Signal faster 2212, 3
Repeat after (word), 121, 121, 3,
22, 3 (word)
Repeat last word, 121, 121, 33
Repeat last message, 121, 121, 121, 333
Move to right 211, 211, 3
Move to left 221, 221, 3

ABBREVIATIONS

a after
b before
c can
h have
n not
r are
t the
u you
ur your
w word
wi with
y yes

How to Tie Knots

Every boy is familiar with rope and its uses, but not every one is able to handle it to the best advantage. In camping and fishing, and particularly in any sport that has to do with the water, a knowledge of how to tie knots is of the greatest value and interest. Often one's very life depends on a knot holding.

A good knot has three qualities, it must be easy and quick to tie, it must hold fast when pulled tight and must be easy to untie. There are a number of knots which meet these requirements but are adapted to different uses. To learn the various knots which follow take a section of flexible rope about four feet long and three-eighths of an inch in diameter. To keep the ends from fraying it is necessary to "whip" or bind them with twine. To do this make a loop in the twine and lay on the rope end so that the closed end of the loop projects just over the end of the rope. Begin wrapping with the long end of the twine at a point about an inch from the end of the rope, over the loop and toward the end. When you reach the end of the rope pass the free end of the twine through the loop and pull the other end of the twine. This will pull the free end under the wrapping and secure it. Cut off both ends close to the wrapping. To understand the directions remember that: 1. _The Standing-part_ is the long unused portion of the rope upon which the work is done. 2. _The Bight_ is the loop formed whenever the rope is turned back upon itself; and 3. _The End_ is the part used in tying the knots.

The two primary knots are the "overhand" and the "figure-of-eight," which must be learned first of all as a basis.

THE OVERHAND KNOT

Beginning with the position shown in the preceding diagram back the end around the standing-part and up through the bight, drawing it tight.

THE FIGURE-OF-EIGHT KNOT

Make a bight as before. Then lead the end around back of the standing-part and down through the bight. The following knots are chiefly based upon these and can be easily learned by careful study of the diagrams. With practice considerable speed can be obtained, but it is best to "make haste slowly."

THE SQUARE OR REEF KNOT

This is the commonest knot for tying two ropes together. It will not slip or jam if properly tied and is easy to untie.

THE FALSE REEF KNOT OR GRANNY.

If the ends are not properly crossed in making the reef knot the _granny_ results, a bad and insecure knot.

THE SHEET BEND OR WEAVER'S KNOT

A knot much used by sailors in bending (tying) the sheet to the clew of the sail and in tying two rope ends together. Make a bight with one rope A, B, then pass the end C, of other rope up through and around the entire bight and bend it under its own standing-part.

THE BOWLINE

One of the most useful of all knots. It forms a loop that will neither jam nor slip and is the only knot which will not cut itself under heavy tension. It is much used on shipboard and in rigging when a loop is desired. To tie the knot, form a small loop on the standing-part leaving the end long enough for the size of the loop required. Pass the end up through the bight around the standing-part and down through the bight again. To tighten hold the loop in position and pull the standing-part. It is important that the knot should be held firmly in one position while tying for it is apt to slip before it is tightened. To join two sections together by this knot, tie a bowline in one end, then with the other end form the small loop, then pass the end through the loop of the first bowline and complete the knot. This method should always be used in joining kite cord to prevent cutting.

THE HALTER, SLIP OR RUNNING KNOT

First form a bight and then tie an overhand knot around the standing-part. An improvement in this knot for a halter knot is made by forming the overhand knot with a loop in the end which is pulled through. By pulling the end the knot is readily released.

THE SHEEPSHANK

This knot is used to shorten a rope. Take up the amount of rope to be shortened and make a half hitch around each bend as shown. If the knot is to be permanent the ends above each half hitch should be lashed.

THE CLOVE HITCH

A useful knot for quick tying and easy release. It is used in making fast the bow line of a boat in coming into a wharf, in lashing poles together, etc. Hold the standing-part in the left hand and pass the rope around the pole or stake; cross the standing-part, making a second turn around the pole, and pass the end under the last turn. In making a boat fast, form a bight with the end beneath, throw this over the top of the pile or mooring stake. Form another bight with the end on top, turn this over and throw over pile, pulling end together. This is a very secure knot which can be tied with the greatest rapidity.

THE FISHERMAN'S BEND

A useful knot for use on board a yacht. Take two turns around a spar or ring, then a half hitch around the standing-part and through the turns on the rings and another half hitch above it around the standing-part.

THE TIMBER HITCH

Much used in logging operations in hauling logs. Pass the end of the rope around the timber. Then lead it around its standing-part and bring it back to make several turns on its own part. The strain will make it hold securely.

THE DOUBLE HALF HITCH

A knot which is easy to tie and will not slip. A neat job may be had by lashing the end to the standing-part after the knot is drawn tight.

THE BECKET HITCH

Useful in fishing to bend a cord or line to a heavier cord or rope. The method is shown.

THE FISHERMAN'S KNOT

Used chiefly in tying gut. It is easy to tie and can be readily untied by pulling the two short ends. The ropes are laid alongside each other and with each end an overhand knot is made around the standing-part of the other. Pull the standing-parts to tighten.

CARRICK BEND

A knot which is used principally in joining hawsers for towing or heavy duty hoisting. Turn the end of one rope A over its standing-part B to form a loop. Pass the end of the other rope across the bight thus formed back of the standing-part B, over the end A, then under the bight at C, passing it over its own standing-part and under the bight again at D.

BLACKWALL HITCH

Used to secure a rope to a hook. The standing part when hauled tight holds the end firmly.

How to Find Your Way by the Stars

It is very important that those who frequent the forest should be sufficiently familiar with the stars to be able to tell their way by them. Often a compass is lost or damaged or there is not enough light to see the landmarks. At such a time a knowledge of how to find the Pole star is invaluable for, to the experienced woodsman, a glimpse of this star is equivalent to consulting a compass. It is really the most important of the stars we see, although not a very bright one, because it marks the North at all times and is fixed in its place, while all the other stars seem to swing around it once in each twenty-four hours, which makes it impracticable to use them for guidance. The Dipper or Great Bear is well known to all American boys on account of the size, peculiar shape and brilliancy of this group, and the fact that it never sets in this latitude. This group always points out the Pole star or Polaris, which is about in a line with the stars (Alpha and Beta) which form the outside of the Dipper at a distance about three and a half times as great as the space separating these two stars. This star always points out the North. If the imaginary line between Alpha and Beta and Polaris is continued about the same distance beyond Polaris it will meet Cassiopeia, five stars in the shape of a W, which, like the Great Bear, is always seen in our latitude. With these directions it should be always easy to locate Polaris.

What to Do in Case of Accident

DROWNING

1. Loosen clothing, if any. 2. Empty lungs of water by laying body on its stomach and lifting it by the middle so that the head hangs down. Jerk the body a few times. 3. Pull tongue forward, using handkerchief, or pin with string, if necessary. 4. Imitate motion of respiration by alternately compressing and expanding the lower ribs, about twenty times a minute. Alternately raising and lowering the arms from the sides up above the head will stimulate the action of the lungs. Let it be done gently but persistently. 5. Apply warmth and friction to extremities. 6. By holding tongue forward, closing the nostrils, and pressing the "Adam's apple" back (so as to close entrance to stomach), direct inflation may be tried. Take a deep breath and breathe it forcibly into the mouth of patient, compress the chest to expel the air, and repeat the operation. 7. _Don't give up!_ People have been saved after _hours_ of patient, vigorous effort. 8. When breathing begins, get patient into a warm bed, give _warm_ drinks, or spirits in teaspoonfuls, fresh air, and quiet.

BURNS AND SCALDS

Cover with cooking soda, and lay wet cloths over it. Whites of eggs and olive oil. Olive oil or linseed oil, plain or mixed with chalk or whiting. Sweet or olive oil and limewater.

LIGHTNING

Dash cold water over a person struck.

SUNSTROKE

Loosen clothing. Get patient into shade and apply ice-cold water to head. Keep head in elevated position.

MAD DOG OR SNAKE BITE

Tie cord tight above wound. Suck the wound and cauterize with caustic or white-hot iron at once, or cut out adjoining parts with a sharp knife. Give stimulants, as whiskey, brandy, etc.

STINGS OF VENOMOUS INSECTS, ETC.

Apply weak ammonia, oil, salt water, or iodine.

FAINTING

Place flat on back; allow fresh air, and sprinkle with water. Place head lower than rest of body.

TESTS OF DEATH

Hold mirror to mouth. If living, moisture will gather. Push pin into flesh. If dead the hole will remain, if alive it will close up. Place fingers in front of a strong light. If alive, they will appear red; if dead, black or dark. If a person is dead decomposition is almost sure to set in after 72 hours have elapsed. If it does not, then there is room for investigation by the physician. Do not permit burial of dead until certain indication of death is apparent.

CINDERS IN THE EYE

Roll soft paper up like a lamplighter, and wet the tip to remove, or use a medicine dropper to draw out. Rub the _other_ eye.

FIRE IN ONE'S CLOTHING

_Don't run_--especially not downstairs or out-of-doors. Roll on carpet or wrap in woolen rug or blanket. Keep the head down, so as not to inhale flame.

FIRE FROM KEROSENE

_Don't use water_, it will spread the flames. Dirt, sand, or flour is the best extinguisher, or smother with woolen rug, table-cloth, or carpet.

SUFFOCATION FROM INHALING ILLUMINATING GAS

Get into the fresh air as soon as possible and lie down. Keep warm. Take ammonia--twenty drops to a tumbler of water, at frequent intervals; also, two to four drops tincture of nux vomica every hour or two for five or six hours.

ANTIDOTES FOR POISONS

First. Send for a physician.

Second. _Induce vomiting_, by tickling throat with feather or finger. Drink hot water or strong mustard and water. Swallow sweet oil or whites of eggs.

_Acids are antidotes for alkalies, and vice versa._

RULES IN CASE OF FIRE

Crawl on the floor. The clearest air is the lowest in the room. Cover head with woolen wrap, wet if possible. Cut holes for the eyes. _Don't get excited._

Familiarize yourself with the location of hall windows and natural escapes. Learn the location of exits to roofs of adjoining buildings. Learn the position of all stairways, particularly the top landing and scuttle to the roof. Should you hear cry of "fire," and columns of smoke fill the rooms, above all _keep cool_. Keep the doors of rooms shut. Open windows from the top. Wet a towel, stuff it in the mouth, breathe through it instead of nose, so as not to inhale smoke. Stand at windows and get benefit of outside air. If room fills with smoke keep close to floor and crawl along by the wall to the window.

Do not jump unless the blaze behind is scorching you. Do not even then if the firemen with scaling ladders are coming up the building or are near. Never go to the roof, unless as a last resort and you know there is escape from it to adjoining buildings. In big buildings fire always goes to the top. Do not jump through flame within a building without first covering the head with a blanket or heavy clothing and gauging the distance. Don't get excited; try to recall the means of exit, and if any firemen are in sight, _don't jump_.

If the doors of each apartment, especially in the lower part of the house, were closed every night before the occupants retired there would not be such a rapid spread of flames.

THE ORIGINAL AMERICANS

An Indian always attracts attention. I have no doubt that all the boys and girls who read these pages have seen one or more Indians. You do not have to go to the mountains and prairies of the West to meet these "original Americans," for they live among us; many of them attend schools of their own in different parts of the country, and some of them are engaged in business. For years past the football club of the Indian School at Carlisle, Pennsylvania, has ranked among the best, as more than one of our colleges have found to their cost. A full-blooded Indian was a member of General Grant's staff, and was present at the surrender of General Lee at Appomattox.

Where did these red people come from? Nobody knows any more than he knows where or when the first human being appeared on this earth. There have been a good many guesses--for they are little more--to tell how the Indians came to be on this continent. Some have thought they are descendants of the Lost Tribes of Israel, who passed across Bering Strait from Asia, and, in the course of centuries, spread over and peopled both North and South America. Why their color changed to the well-known copper tint must have been due to the climate, though it is hard to understand why other persons should become yellow, brown or black. Then, too, a learned man once said there was no reason why the Indians might not have crossed Bering Strait from the other way, and peopled the Eastern Hemisphere. No doubt we shall have to wait a long time before learning all about the origin of man.

You hardly need be told how these red people got their name. Christopher Columbus, when he caught sight of land, after sailing so many weeks to the westward over the Atlantic, thought it was a part of the Indies. So, quite naturally, he called the natives _Indians_, and the name will never be changed.

You have heard of the Mound Builders, and many of you have seen some of the vast piles of earth which they heaped up hundreds of years ago. Ohio has ten thousand such mounds, and one near St. Louis covers eight acres. For a long while, it was believed that the Mound Builders were a race different from the Indians, who in the course of time gave place to them. This is a mistake. They belonged to the same race, and when Columbus discovered America, the Mound Builders were working like beavers in many parts of the country.

I am quite sure that you boys and girls, when reading or thinking about the Indians, have believed they were dying off, and the day would come when there would not be one of them left in America. No doubt you have felt sad over the thought (I remember when I was a little fellow how I shed a tear, and sniffed and hoped a few of them wouldn't die till I had become a man and gained a chance of seeing them.) This mistake is one of the most curious of which I know. There are to-day as many Indians in this country as there were four hundred years ago. The last census of the tribes in Canada shows a slight increase. True, some tribes have been destroyed, but others have grown in number. There are more Iroquois or "Six Nation" Indians now than during the Revolution. When the end of all things comes, and the white men of this country are called to be judged, plenty of red men will be among them. They are in the United States to stay, and stay they will as long as the white man remains.

At the opening of the twentieth century, the Indian population of the United States was more than 270,000. This did not include Alaska, and is a clear increase during the preceding ten years. More than a third of the Indians wear civilized dress, and a half of this third know how to read. Nearly a half of all the Indians are on "reservations" or at schools. The five civilized tribes, and their members in round numbers are: Cherokees, 30,000; Chickasaws, 7,000; Choctaws, 15,000; Creeks, 15,000; Seminoles, 2,500. They have fine schools, churches, banks, newspapers, factories and all the luxuries of modern life, with a system of government copied after our own.

More than a million dollars is spent every year by our government for the support of the various schools formed for the education of the Indians. These schools are at Albuquerque, N. M.; Chamberlin, So. Dakota; Cherokee, N. C.; Carlisle, Pa.; Carson City, Nev.; Chilocco, Oklahoma; Genoa, Neb.; Hampton, Va.; Lawrence, Kansas; and twenty-four other places.

You know that while the color of the Indians shows different shades, it is so similar that, leaving out the Eskimos, it is certain all of them had the same origin. The "pure-bloods" have coarse black hair, black eyes, high cheek bones, and not much muscular development, but they can stand a wonderful amount of fatigue. They are generally of a melancholy disposition, brooding and sullen by nature--though there are many exceptions--revengeful, unforgiving, treacherous, and yet they do not forget favors or kindnesses shown to them. The fact that from the day the first white man set foot on this continent he has abused the Indians, had much to do with the hatred shown by them toward these invaders from across the ocean.

Now, when you bear in mind that a good many tribes number only a few hundreds; that four hundred languages and two thousand dialects are used by the natives of North and South America, you will see how hard it is to classify them. Yet it is said the members of each tribe can be recognized. A good many systems have been used in classifying the Indians, but the best is that which divides them as follows:

The Panis-Arapahoe family, including the Panis or Pawnees, the Arapahoes and the Jetans, called Comanches by the Spanish.

The Columbian family, including the tribes in the North-west, of which the principal are the Snake or Flatheads, and the Shoshones.

The Sioux-Osage family, in which are found the powerful and numerous Sioux or Dakotas, the Assiniboines, who live in alliance with the Chippewas, the Mandans and the Osages.

The Mobile-Natchez, or Floridian family. This is composed of six independent branches, each divided into several tribes, including the five civilized ones already referred to.

The Algonquin, Huron (Wyandot) and Iroquois family. The first two named are residents of Canada, while many of the Iroquois live in Central New York.

The Lenape family include the Shawanoes, Kickapoos, Sacs, Foxes, Illinois, Pottawatomies, Winnebagoes, Delawares or Lenni-Lenape, Mohicans, Chippewas, and several others. The Apaches forming the most terrible of all Indian tribes, belong to the Mexican family.

The Indians knew nothing of firearms until they saw them in the hands of the white men. Like the ancient barbarians of other countries, they made use of the primitive bow and arrow, spear, tomahawk, knife and club. Swine, sheep, cows and horses were unknown until brought across the ocean by white men. America, in turn, gave tobacco to the Old World. The warrior lolled in his wigwam or tepee, smoking his pipe, while his squaw scratched the earth and raised maize and a few vegetables. Now and then the head of the household wandered into the woods to hunt for game, or to fish in the streams. His delight, however, was in going on the "war-path," and in slaying those of his own race, who belonged to another tribe. Through the gloomy depths of the forest, where only his trained eye could trace the prints of the moccasin, he tracked his enemy, braving storm, heat, cold, fatigue, starvation, and every kind of hardship, for the chance of stealing upon the sleeper, or catching him off his guard. Burying his knife in his breast, or driving his deadly arrow into the heart of his enemy, he wrenched the scalp from his crown, and with a shout of triumph, hurried back to his own people, with the shocking proof of his bravery. The members of the tribe who thus lost one of their number did not rest, so long as there was hope of revenge. Thus the fierce warfare went on, just as if these dusky people were civilized, or belonged to some of the "feudists" in certain parts of our country.

Among the many thousands of Indians there have appeared from time to time, numerous men of striking mental ability. They have had some of the most eloquent of orators, while others have shown marked military skill. Brought into contact with the white people, they have sometimes surpassed the Caucasian in real genius. In tracing the history and development of our country, we meet proofs of such skill and ability on the part of the Indians, and in the pages that follow we shall give attention to the most interesting instances, whose truth cannot be questioned.