Chapter I: Part I: Old Mexico

I. _By Way of Cuba and the Spanish Main_ 1

II. _Vera Cruz_ 16

III. _Up the Long Mountain Slope_ 24

IV. _The Capital_ 37

V. _The Projectors_ 54

VI. _The Ferro-carriles_ 70

VII. _The Railways at Work_ 80

VIII. _The Question of Money, and Shopping_ 96

IX. _Social Life, and some Notable Institutions_ 107

X. _The Fine Arts and Literature_ 120

XI. _Some Traits of Peculiar History, and the Mexican
“Warwick”_ 134

XII. _Cuatitlan, and Around Lakes Xochimilco and Chalco_ 149

XIII. _To Old Texcoco_ 162

XIV. _Popocatepetl Ascended_ 175

XV. _A Banquet, and a Tragedy, at Cuautla-Morelos_ 185

XVI. _San Juan, Orizaba, and Cordoba Revisited_ 192

XVII. _Puebla, Cholula, Tlaxcala_ 210

XVIII. _Mines and Mining Traits, at Pachuco and Regla_ 227

XIX. _A Week at a Mexican Country-house_ 245

XX. _On Horseback and Muleback to Acapulco_ 263

XXI. _Conversations by the Way with a Colonel_ 275