Chapter XV: Preparations for the Hair

The number of proprietary preparations for the hair which are
advertised widely is very considerable. They include preparations
for increasing the growth of the hair or curing baldness, and
preparations for altering the colouring of the hair. The line of
division, however, is not a sharp one; of the articles sold for
altering the colour of the hair some are plainly called dyes, but
others are stated to restore the colour of hair that is turning grey
without dyeing it, and for some of these it is also claimed that they
increase the growth of the hair. It is, therefore, more convenient to
arrange hair preparations in three groups--namely, hair growers, hair
“restorers,” and hair dyes. In this chapter the results obtained by
analysing a small number of preparations selected from each of these
groups are given, together with some extracts from the statements
made in regard to them by the proprietors, either on the labels or in
circulars, letters, or newspaper advertisements.

A.--HAIR GROWERS.

TATCHO.

(THE “GEORGE R. SIMS” HAIR RESTORER.)

It appears from the label that there are three varieties of this much-advertised preparation, known as “Tatcho” oily, “Tatcho” non-oily, and “Tatcho” (concentrated). The non-oily, described as “A brilliant spirituous tonic, free from all grease,” was taken for analysis. A bottle of this, containing 5¹⁄₄ fluid ounces, was priced 2s. 9d. It is thus described:

The certain, trusty, genuine, right, honest Hair-Grower. There is no
other.

Without “Tatcho” loss of hair is inevitable, but Mr. Geo. R. Sims has
altered all that.

If your hair has become scanty or grey, get “Tatcho” to-day. It will
bring back the hair of your youth, make a new being of you, and give
you a new grip upon life.

The label and wrapper bear the following:

Certificate.

I guarantee that this Preparation is made according to the Formulæ
recommended by me.

Geo. R. Sims.

The directions are:

Sprinkle a few drops on the head each morning, and brush the hair
thoroughly after application.

Analysis showed the composition to be:

Borax 2.7 parts
Glycerine 2.5 „
Quinine 0.006 part
Formaldehyde solution (40 per cent.) 0.38 part
Colouring matter (brownish-yellow), and perfume traces
Alcohol 2.4 parts by measure
Water, sufficient to produce 100 parts by measure.

The estimated cost of the ingredients for 5¹⁄₄ fluid ounces is ¹⁄₂d.

EDWARDS’ HARLENE.

Some of the most conspicuous and recent advertisements of this have been largely devoted to a method of treating the hair called “Harlene Hair-drill.” The preparation is supplied by a firm in London.

The package contained a booklet on “Harlene Hair Drill,” from which the following extracts are taken:

Among all the scores of preparations for the Hair which are offered
to the public (and it may be taken for granted that the proprietors
of “Harlene” have analysed them all very carefully) many prove to
be so wide of the mark as to be actually injurious in a very high
degree, while a few may do no particular harm, but certainly no
good; for, as we have said, Nature’s requirements must be met in the
precise measure--neither in a greater nor a less....

“Harlene” alone answers all requirements; it has the property of
penetrating direct to the roots of the hair, stimulating them to
renewed vigour, cleansing the cells which line the way; and, above
all, it conveys to the hair-bulbs the peculiar food which they
require--the only food Nature has ordained can act as nourishment
for them, the food they otherwise obtain from the blood. No other
preparation contains this ingredient, and therefore no other
preparation can be successful....

The proprietors of “Harlene” recognising that users of their specific
have an undoubted right to look to them for the best information
obtainable on this subject have, over a considerable period,
conducted experiments to test thoroughly every method of “drill” not
requiring the use of instruments.

Elaborate details follow of the method of carrying out the “drill,” of which a sample may suffice:

The manner in which a cat moves among shrubbery is a good
illustration as to the way the fingers should be moved through the
hair; the manner in which a cat kneads its bed before laying on
it, placing its paws on the material on which it will sleep, and
pressing it down in a kneading manner until suitable, the paws never
being lifted and brought down, but only relaxed before the pressure
is applied, is exactly how this movement in the “drill” should be
carried out.

Analysis showed the liquid to contain:

Borax 0.5 part
Additional alkali, equivalent to anhydrous sodium carbonate 0.04 „
Solution of ammonia (10 per cent.) 0.12 „
Glycerine 0.4 „
Brown colouring matter and perfume traces
Alcohol 5.7 parts by measure
Water, sufficient to produce 100 parts by measure.

The small quantity of alkali, in excess of what was present as borax,
may have been in combination with the colouring matter.

The estimated cost of ingredients for 6 fluid ounces is 1d.

KOKO.

This preparation is sold by a limited company in London. A 4s. 6d. bottle contained 12¹⁄₄ fluid ounces.

The following extracts are from a circular accompanying the bottle:

Eradicates Scurf. Promotes Growth. Prevents Hair Falling. Contains
No Dye. Will positively Stop Hair from Falling Out, and prevent it
turning Prematurely Grey. Will certainly Increase the Growth of
the Hair, and if consistently used will make it Bright, Soft, and
Wavy.... The strong assertions of interested sellers of preparations
cannot be relied on, and testimonials, as a rule, cannot be safely
taken as genuine unless the position of the writer places him or
her above suspicion. We often think that the public must be sick of
seeing the eternal “This is the best” attached to every conceivable
article which is offered for sale; and for this reason we usually
refrain from saying much about Koko, leaving it to our illustrious
patrons to speak of its good qualities.

The directions for use are:

The best plan is to apply Koko freely, and brush the scalp until a
warm glow is produced. This treatment should be practised once or
twice a day, or at intervals of a few days, according to the state of
the scalp.

Analysis showed it to contain:

Borax 1.4 parts.
Glycerine 1.7 „
Formaldehyde solution (40 per cent.) 0.1 part.
Perfume a trace.
Alcohol 3 parts by measure.
Water, sufficient to produce 100 parts by measure.

The estimated cost of the ingredients for 12¹⁄₄ fluid ounces is 1d.

B.--HAIR RESTORERS.

LOCKYER’S SULPHUR HAIR RESTORER.

This article is supplied by a limited company in London, who also sell other proprietary articles. The price of a bottle containing 12 fluid ounces is 1s. 6d. It is described as:

The Best. The Safest. The Cheapest.

Restores the colour to Grey Hair. Instantly stops the Hair from
fading. Occasionally used, Greyness is impossible. If the Hair is
actually Grey the Sulphur Restorer in six or seven days effects a
great alteration. By a gradual action, scarcely perceptible even to
watchful observers, several darker shades will be attained. In a
period of three weeks a complete change occurs, and a colour exactly
resembling that lost will became manifest.

Where the Sulphur Restorer is applied scurf cannot exist, and a sense
of cleanliness, coolness, etc., prevails.

Directions:

Well shake the bottle, and immediately apply the Restorer to the
roots of the hair. A very small sponge is convenient for this
purpose. At first it should be used daily, but when the required
shade is obtained, two or three times a week will suffice.

Analysis showed it to contain:

Precipitated sulphur 1.3 parts
Lead acetate 1.6 „
Lead sulphate 0.4 „
Glycerine 9.6 „
Rose water sufficient to produce 100 parts by measure.

The lead sulphate was probably due to some reaction having occurred
between the lead acetate and sulphur, with oxidation; assuming this
to be so, the amount of lead acetate originally present would be 2.1
parts.

The estimated cost of ingredients for 12 fluid ounces is 2d.

MEXICAN HAIR RENEWER.

A bottle of this preparation, which is sold by another limited company, contained 7³⁄₄ fluid ounces; the price was 3s. 6d.

It is described as:

For restoring grey hair to its original colour without dyeing it.

For renewing or causing hair to grow on bald spots.

For preventing dandriff and the hair from falling out.

For making the hair soft, glossy, pliant, and luxuriant.

Daily application of this preparation for a week or two will
surely restore Faded, Grey, or White Hair to its natural colour
and richness. If properly applied, it never fails; but it should
be well shaken before using. It is not a dye, nor does it contain
any colouring matter or offensive substance whatever. Hence it does
not soil the hands, the scalp, or even white linen, but produces
the colour within the substance of the hair. In many cases it has
been successful in causing new hair to grow on bald spots, and it
can be confidently recommended in all cases, unless the hair-glands
are decayed; for if the glands are decayed and gone, no stimulant
can restore them; but if, as is often the case, the glands are only
torpid, “The Mexican Hair Renewer” will renew their vitality, and a
new growth of hair will follow.

Directions for use:

First.--Turn the bottle cork downwards and shake it thoroughly.
Turn a little into a saucer, apply it briskly to the bald spots,
and thoroughly wet all the grey hair every morning for a few weeks,
and, unless the hair glands are decayed, new hair will grow, and the
grey hair turn to its original colour, then an occasional use is
sufficient.

Analysis showed it to contain:

Precipitated sulphur 1.4 parts
Lead acetate 0.13 „
Glycerine 19.0 „
Rose water sufficient to produce 100 parts by measure.

A second bottle, however, contained 0.97 part of lead acetate in 100
parts by measure, or about eight times as much as the first bottle.

The estimated cost of the ingredients for 7³⁄₄ fluid ounces is 2d.

VILIXIR.

A preparation called “Vilixir” is sold by a limited company whose address is given as a “Hydro” in Kent. A 12s. 6d. bottle contained 5¹⁄₂ fluid ounces. This preparation has been largely advertised of late, the advertisement in some cases taking the form of a half-page display in a newspaper so worded as to convey the impression that it was published as news. The following extracts are from such an advertisement:

Great interest has been aroused by the recent announcement in this
paper of a unique and useful discovery made at the ... Hydro, near
London, of a method of actually restoring the natural colour to
faded, grey, or white hair.

So much curiosity has been aroused, indeed, that the authorities
have been compelled to publish in pamphlet form the full particulars
of this discovery (a copy of this interesting publication may be
obtained on application to the person and address given later in this
second review of the discovery and its possibilities of usefulness to
the Public)....

No actual colouring agent is employed in the new dye-less and
stainless method. Instead, the hair’s sleeping pigmentary process is
reawakened....

The new way of making people’s hair show true colours is, happily, an
inexpensive one.

The following extracts are from letters received from the Vilixir Company, after application for the pamphlet mentioned above:

The “Vilixir” Treatment differs from all other ways and means of
colouring the hair. It does not put on an artificial colour--it will
bring out the natural colour of your hair....

At this Hydro we have assistants who have become expert in the
obtaining of the best possible results from the Treatment, and if you
would like to have us do all that is necessary for you, I shall be
happy to quote you terms to include a short stay at this Hydro....
It is not necessary to the success of the Treatment, however, that
you carry it out at this address. I can send the “Vilixir” and full
directions to enable you to restore the natural colour of your hair
in the privacy of your own home.

... the “Vilixir” Treatment is absolutely non-injurious either to the
skin or to the hair; its action is wholly beneficial in every way. It
promotes growth on the bald patches (unless the roots are absolutely
perished); it thickens and lengthens the growth over the whole of the
head; it stops falling out, and, most important of all, its effects
are comparatively permanent.

The directions on the label are:

Shake the bottle and apply the liquid night and morning to the scalp
with a small brush, rubbing in for two or three minutes, and finally
brush the hair for a few seconds with the brush moistened with
“Vilixir.”

The bottle of liquid that was sent in return for 12s. 6d. was accompanied by about ¹⁄₄ ounce of shampoo powder, for shampooing the head before the first use of “Vilixir.” This powder was found to consist of

Borax 4.6 per cent.
Powdered soap 24.4 „
Partly exsiccated sodium carbonate 71.0 „

Analysis showed the liquid to contain:

Precipitated Sulphur 3.2 parts.
Lead acetate 1.8 „
Glycerine 5.7 „
Rose water, sufficient to produce 100 parts by measure.

The estimated cost of the ingredients for 5¹⁄₂ fluid ounces of the liquid and ¹⁄₄ ounce of the powder is 1d.

C.--HAIR DYES.

W. SEEGER’S HAIR DYE.

This preparation bears a copy of signature “W. Seeger,” and the words “made in Germany” on the package, but no address.

A bottle, price 2s., contained 1¹⁄₃ fluid ounces.

Directions for use:

Before applying Seeger’s, wash the hair in lukewarm water in which
you have melted a piece of ordinary household soda of the size of
a walnut to each quart of water you use. Then, when the hair is
perfectly dry, pour a little of the dye into a clean saucer, dip
the teeth of a perfectly clean fine tooth comb into the dye in the
saucer, and pass the comb several times through the hair where it is
required to be dyed. Now allow the dye to dry on the hair. While the
hair is drying, comb it now and then, so that the dye, which does not
become visible for some hours, may come in contact with the air and
an equal shade be obtained. The day following, the dye which has not
dried in can be washed out with clean water without soda.

The dye is prepared in three shades, for blonde, brown, and black; the “brown” was taken for examination.

Analysis showed it to contain, in 100 parts by measure:

Pyrogallic acid 3.8 parts.
Cupric chloride (anhydrous) 1.8 „
Hydrochloric acid (_B.P._ strength) 0.75 part
Sulphuric acid 0.07 „

The liquid was much darker than a solution freshly prepared according to this formula; but the dyeing effect of the two was practically identical, and the difference in appearance appeared to be due to decomposition of a part of the pyrogallic acid having taken place in the original.

The estimated cost of the ingredients for 1¹⁄₃ fluid ounces is ¹⁄₂d.

SHADEINE.

This preparation, sold from an address in London, was in a bottle which contained 3¹⁄₂ fluid ounces, and was priced 3s. 6d.

It is thus described:

Shadeine is a new and important chemical discovery which regenerates
and develops the original colour of grey and faded hair, at the same
time tinting it a perfectly natural colour.... It contains neither
lead, silver, mercury, sulphur, nor any objectionable stain.

Directions for use:

Wash the hair, if in the least greasy, with soda and warm water. When
dry, pour a little Shadeine into a saucer, and with a small brush
apply evenly over the parts to be coloured, then allow it to dry. A
small quantity only should be used at a time, and the colour allowed
to develop during the day. As soon as the shade is satisfactory, wash
or brush off superfluous stain.

This preparation is made in seven colours. The one that was taken for examination was labelled “Brown.”

Analysis showed it to contain in 100 parts by measure:

Pyrogallic acid 2.1 parts.
Cupric chloride (anhydrous) 1.3 „
Hydrochloric acid (_B.P._ strength) 0.3 part.

The estimated cost of the ingredients for 3¹⁄₂ fluid ounces is ³⁄₄d.

JUVENIA.

The hair dye called “Juvenia” is made in Paris, and supplied by a firm having addresses in London and Birmingham. A package, price 4s., contained two bottles, Nos. 1 and 2, each containing about 2¹⁄₃ fluid ounces; the liquids to be mixed at the time of using.

It is thus described:

This marvellous dye is guaranteed not to contain mercurial salts, it
is altogether of a vegetable nature and harmless.

“Juvenia” instantly restores white hair and grey beard to their
original colour, from auburn to the most jet black tints.

We specially recommend persons who wish to dye their hair or beard to
follow our advice word for word.

It is well known that subjects suffering from arthritis, herpes, or
eczema ought to abstain from eating sea-fish, shell-fish, sorrel,
strawberries, etc., under penalty of provoking eruptions or eczema
spots. Accordingly, generally speaking, such persons ought to
entirely give up the use of all instantaneous dye, and make use of
nothing else than our progressive regenerators alone, the use of
which we advise for them, in preference to any other.

If, in spite of our advice, those persons subject to the
above-mentioned affections persist in dyeing their hair, they ought
at any rate to consult their doctor.

It is necessary, in fact, to have oneself thoroughly examined as far
as the scalp is concerned before the application of a dye, and this
recommendation may especially be given to ladies. At times they may
prick themselves with their combs, their hat or hair-pins, the result
being small sores which ought not to be irritated or skinned. The
scalp ought to be absolutely intact, and if need be, one must wait
till all flaying is well healed.

Analysis showed the “liquid No. 1” to be a solution of hydrogen peroxide containing 2 per cent. of real peroxide, or two-thirds the strength of the ordinary “10 volume” solution. Liquid No. 2, or “Juvenia” itself, was found to contain:

Paraphenylene-diamine 0.9 per cent.
Solution of ammonia 0.6 „
with a trace of fixed alkali, probably dissolved out of the glass of
the bottle.

A solution prepared in accordance with this formula gave an exactly similar result in dyeing hair. The estimated cost of the ingredients for the contents of the two bottles is 1¹⁄₂d.

The danger of using paraphenylene-diamine as a hair-dye has often been pointed out, and is well known. When used in this way symptoms of poisoning are sometimes quickly produced, but in other cases they do not occur until after it has been used for weeks or even months. In addition to urticaria and eczema produced locally, general symptoms of poisoning may result, and in some cases deaths have occurred from this cause.