Chapter L: D’Honat’s Eden (2)

Nothing now remained but to set fire to the train, and the Surveyor was exceeding curious to observe the effect of the explosion, which indeed was wonderful; for this small quantity of powder not only lifted up the whole angle of the tower, with two arches that rested upon it; but also the two adjoining arches of the isles, and all above them; and this it seemed to do somewhat leisurely, cracking the walls to the top, and lifting up visibly the whole weight about nine inches, which suddenly tumbling to its center, again caused an enormous heap of ruin, without scattering, and it was half a minute before this huge mountain opened in two or three places and emitted smoke. The shock of so great a weight from a height of two hundred feet, alarmed the inhabitants round about with the terrible apprehensions of an earthquake.

A second trial of the same kind, was made by a person appointed by Dr. Wren, who being too wise in his own conceit, disobeyed the orders he had received, put in a greater quantity of powder, and omitted to take the same care in closing up the hole, or digging to the foundation; but though this second trial had the desired effect, yet one stone was shot as from the mouth of a cannon to the opposite side of the church yard, and entered a private room where some women were at work; but no other damage was done, besides spreading a panic among the neighbours, who instantly made application above against the farther use of gunpowder, and orders were issued from the council board accordingly.

The Surveyor being now reduced to the necessity of making new experiments, resolved to try the battering ram of the ancients, and therefore caused a strong mast forty feet long to be shod with iron at the biggest end, and fortified every way with bars and ferrels, and having caused it to be suspended set it to work. Thirty men were employed in vibrating this machine, who beat in one place against the wall a whole day without any visible effect. He however bid them not despair, but try what another day would produce; and on the second day the wall was perceived to tremble at the top, and in a few hours it fell to the ground.

In clearing the foundation, he found that the north side had been anciently a great burying place; for under the graves of these latter ages, he found in a row the graves of the Saxons, who cased their dead in chalk stones; tho’ persons of great eminence were buried in stone coffins: below these were the graves of the ancient Britons, as was manifest from the great number of ivory and wooden pins found among the mouldered dust; for it was their method only to pin the corpse in woollen shrouds, and lay them in the ground, and this covering being consumed, the ivory and wooden pins remained entire.

At a still greater depth he discovered a great number of Roman potsheards, urns, and dishes, sound, and of a beautiful red like our sealing wax; on the bottoms of some of them were inscriptions, which denoted their having been drinking vessels; and on others, which resembled our modern sallad dishes, beautifully made and curiously wrought, was the inscription DZ. PRIMANI. and on others, those of PATRICI. QUINTIMANI. VICTOR. IANUS. RECINIO, &c. The pots and several glass vessels were of a murrey colour; and others resembling urns, were beautifully embellished on the outsides with raised work, representing grey hounds, stags, hares, and rose trees. Others were of a cinnamon colour, in the form of an urn, and tho’ a little faded, appeared as if they had been gilt. Some resembling juggs formed an hexagon, and were curiously indented and adorned with a variety of figures in basso relievo.

The red vessels appeared to have been the most honourable; for on them were inscribed the names of their deities, heroes, and judges; and the matter of which these vessels were made, was of such an excellent composition, as to vie with polished metal in beauty.

There were also discovered several brass coins, which by their long continuance in the earth were become a prey to time; but some of them that were in a more favourable soil, were so well preserved as to discover in whose reign they were coined: on one of them was Adrian’s head, with a galley under oars on the reverse; and on others, the heads of Romulus and Remus, Claudius and Constantine.

At a somewhat smaller depth were discovered a number of _lapilli_ or _tesselæ_, of various sorts of marble, viz. Egyptian, Porphyry, Jasper, &c. in the form of dice, which were used by the Romans in paving the _prætorium_, or General’s tent. _Conyers M. S. in the Sloanian library, in the Museum._

On searching for the natural ground, Dr. Wren perceived that the foundation of the old church stood upon a layer of very close and hard pot earth, on the north side about six feet deep, but gradually thinning towards the south, till on the declivity of the hill, it was scarce four feet; yet he concluded that the same ground which had borne so weighty a building before, might reasonably be trusted again. However, boring beneath this, he found a stratum of loose sand; and lower still, at low water mark, water and sand mixed with periwinkles and other sea shells; under this, a hard beach; and below all the natural bed of clay that extends far and wide, under the city, country, and river.

The foundations appeared to be those originally laid, consisting of Kentish rubble stone, artfully worked and consolidated with exceeding hard mortar, after the Roman manner, much excelling what he found in the superstructure. What induced him to change the scite of the church, and eraze the old foundations which were so firm, was the desire of giving the new structure a more free and graceful aspect; yet after all, he found himself too much confined; and unable to bring his front to lie exactly from Ludgate. However, in his progress he met with one misfortune that made him almost repent of the alteration he had made; he began the foundation from the west to the east, and then extending his line to the north east, where he expected no interruption, he fell upon a pit, where the hard crust of pot earth, already mentioned, had been taken away, and to his unspeakable mortification, filled up with rubbish: he wanted but six or seven feet to complete his design, yet there was no other remedy but digging thro’ the sand, and building from the solid earth, that was at least forty feet deep. He therefore sunk a pit eighteen feet wide, tho’ he wanted at most but seven, thro’ all the strata, that has been already mentioned, and laid the foundations of a square pier of solid good masonry, which he carried up till he came within fifteen feet of the present surface; and then turned a short arch under ground to the level of the stratum of hard pot-earth, upon which arch the north east coin of the choir now stands.

This difficulty being surmounted, and the foundations laid, he for several reasons made choice of Portland stone for the superstructure; but chiefly as the largest scantlings were to be procured from thence: however, as these could not be depended upon for columns exceeding four feet in diameter, this determined this great architect to make choice of two orders instead of one, and an Attic story, as at St. Peter’s at Rome, in order to preserve the just proportions of his cornice, otherwise the edifice must have fallen short of its intended height. Bramante in building St. Peter’s, though he had the quarries of Tivoli at hand, where he could have blocks large enough for his columns of nine feet diameter, yet for want of stones of suitable dimensions, was obliged to diminish the proportions of the proper members of his cornice; a fault against which Dr. Wren resolved to guard. On these principles he therefore proceeded, in raising the present magnificent edifice.

The general form of St. Paul’s cathedral is a long cross: the walls are wrought in rustic, and strengthened as well as adorned by two rows of coupled pilasters, one over the other; the lower Corinthian, and the upper Composite. The spaces between the arches of the windows, and the architrave of the lower order, are filled with a great variety of curious enrichments, as are those above.

The west front is graced with a most magnificent portico, a noble pediment, and two stately turrets, and when one advances towards the church from Ludgate, the elegant construction of this front, the fine turrets over each corner, and the vast dome behind, fill the mind with a pleasing astonishment.

At this end, there is a noble flight of steps of black marble, that extend the whole length of the portico, which consists of twelve lofty Corinthian columns below, and eight of the Composite order above; these are all coupled and fluted. The upper series supports a noble pediment crowned with its acroteria. In this pediment is a very elegant representation in bas relief, of the conversion of St. Paul, which was executed by Mr. Bird, an artist, who, by this piece, has deserved to have his name transmitted to posterity. Nothing could have been conceived more difficult to represent in bas relief than this conversion; the most striking object being naturally the irradiation of light, but even this is well expressed, and the figures are excellently performed. The magnificent figure of St. Paul, also on the apex of the pediment, with St. Peter on his right and St. James on his left, have a fine effect. The four Evangelists with their proper emblems on the front of the towers, are also very judiciously disposed, and well executed: St. Matthew is distinguished by an angel: St. Mark, by a lion; St. Luke, by an ox; and St. John, by an eagle.

To the north portico, there is an ascent by twelve circular steps of black marble; and its dome is supported by six large Corinthian columns, forty-eight inches in diameter. Upon the dome is a large and well proportioned urn, finely ornamented with festoons; and over this is a pediment supported by pilasters in the wall, in the face of which is the royal arms, with the regalia, supported by angels. And lest this view of the cathedral should appear void of sufficient ornament, the statues of five of the Apostles are placed on the top at proper distances.

The south portico answers to the north, and is placed directly opposite to it. This, like the other, is a dome supported by six noble Corinthian columns: but, as the ground is considerably lower on this, than on the other side of the church, the ascent is by a flight of twenty-five steps. This portico has also a pediment above, in which is a phœnix rising out of the flames with the motto RESURGAM underneath it, as an emblem of the rebuilding the church after the fire. This device had perhaps its origin from an incident, which happened at the beginning of the work, and was particularly remarked by the architect as a favourable omen. When Dr. Wren himself had set out upon the place the dimensions of the building, and fixed upon the center of the great dome, a common labourer was ordered to bring him a flat stone, the first he found among the rubbish, to leave as a mark of direction to the masons; the stone which the fellow brought for this purpose, happened to be a piece of a grave stone with nothing remaining of the inscription but this single word in large capitals, RESURGAM; a circumstance which Dr. Wren never forgot. On this side of the building are likewise five statues, which take their situation from that of St. Andrew on the apex of the last mentioned pediment.

At the cast end of the church is a sweep or circular projection for the altar, finely ornamented with the orders, and with sculpture, particularly a noble piece in honour of his Majesty King William III.

The dome which rises in the center of the whole, appears extremely grand. Twenty feet above the roof of the church is a circular range of thirty-two columns, with niches placed exactly against others within. These are terminated by their entablature, which supports a handsome gallery adorned with a balustrade. Above these columns is a range of pilasters, with windows between; and from the entablature of these the diameter decreases very considerably; and two feet above that it is again contracted. From this part the external sweep of the dome begins, and the arches meet at fifty-two feet above. On the summit of the dome is an elegant balcony; and from its center rises the lanthorn adorned with Corinthian columns; and the whole is terminated by a ball, from which rises a cross, both elegantly gilt. These parts, which appear from below of a very moderate size, are extremely large.

This vast and noble fabric, which is 2292 feet in circumference, and 340 feet in height to the top of the cross, is surrounded at a proper distance by a dwarf stone wall, on which is placed the most magnificent balustrade of cast iron perhaps in the universe, of about five feet six inches in height, exclusive of the wall. In this stately enclosure are seven beautiful iron gates, which, together with the banisters, in number about 2500, weigh two hundred tons and eighty-one pounds, which having cost 6_d._ per pound, the whole, with other charges, amounted to 11,202_l._ and 6_d._

In the area of the grand west front, on a pedestal of excellent workmanship, stands a statue of Queen Anne, formed of white marble with proper decorations. The figures on the base represent Britannia with her spear; Gallia, with a crown in her lap; Hibernia, with her harp; and America with her bow. These, and the colossal statues with which the church is adorned, were all done by the ingenious Mr. Hill, who was chiefly employed in the decorations.

The north east part of the church yard is conferred by the Dean and Chapter upon the inhabitants of St. Faith’s parish, which is united to St. Austin’s, for the interment of their dead; as is also the south east part of the cemetery, with a vault therein, granted to St. Gregory’s parish for the same use.

On ascending the steps at the west end, we find three doors ornamented on the top with bas relief; the middle door, which is by far the largest, is cased with white marble, and over it is a fine piece of basso relievo, in which St. Paul is represented preaching to the Bereans. On entering this door, on the inside of which hang the colours taken from the French at Louisbourg in 1758, the mind is struck by the nobleness of the vista; an arcade supported by lofty and massy pillars on each hand, divide the church into the body and two isles, and the view is terminated by the altar at the extremity of the choir. The above pillars are adorned with columns and pilasters of the Corinthian and Composite orders, and the arches of the roof enriched with shields, festoons, chaplets and other ornaments.

In the isle on one hand is the consistory, and opposite to it on the other is the morning prayer chapel, where divine service is performed every morning early, Sunday excepted: each of these have a very beautiful screen of carved wainscot, that is admired by the best judges, and each are adorned with twelve columns, arched pediments and the royal arms, finely decorated.

On proceeding forward, you come to the large cross isle between the north and south porticos; over which is the cupola. Here you have a view of the whispering gallery, of the paintings above it, and the concave, which fills the mind with surprise and pleasure. Under its center is fixed in the floor a brass plate, round which the pavement is beautifully variegated; but the figures into which it is formed can no where be so well seen as from the whispering gallery.

You have now a full view of the organ, richly ornamented with carved work, with the entrance to the choir directly under it. The two isles on the sides of the choir, as well as the choir itself, are here enclosed with very fine iron rails and gates.

The organ gallery is supported by eight Corinthian columns of blue and white marble, and the choir has on each side thirty stalls, besides the Bishop’s throne on the south side, and the Lord Mayor’s on the north. The carving of the beautiful range of stalls as well as that of the organ, is much admired.

Here the reader’s desk, which is at some distance from the pulpit, is an enclosure of very fine brass rails gilt, in which is a gilt brass pillar supporting an eagle of brass gilt, which holds the book on his back and expanded wings.

The altar piece is adorned with four noble fluted pilasters painted and veined with gold in imitation of lapis lazuli, and their capitals are double gilt. In the intercolumniations are twenty-one pannels of figured crimson velvet, and above them six windows, in two series.

The floor of the choir, and indeed of the whole church, is paved with marble: but within the rails of the altar with porphyry, polished and laid in several geometrical figures.

But to be more particular: as the disposition of the vaultings within is an essential beauty, without which many other ornaments would lose their effect, so the architect was particularly careful in this respect. “The Romans,” says the author of the _Parentalia_, “used hemispherical vaultings, and Sir Christopher chose those as being demonstrably lighter than the diagonal cross vaults: so the whole vault of St. Paul’s consists of twenty-four cupolas cut off semicircular, with segments to join to the great arches one way, and which are cut across the other, with eliptical cylinders to let in the upper lights of the nave; but in the isles the lesser cupolas are both ways cut in semicircular sections, and altogether make a graceful geometrical form, distinguished with circular wreaths which is the horizontal section of the cupola; for the hemisphere may be cut all manner of ways into circular sections; and the arches and wreaths being of stone carved, the spandrels between are of sound brick, invested with stucco of cockle-shell lime, which becomes as hard as Portland stone; and which having large planes between the stone ribs, are capable of the farther ornaments of painting, if required.

“Besides these twenty-four cupolas, there is a half cupola at the east, and the great cupola of 108 feet in diameter at the middle of the crossing of the great isles. In this the architect imitated the Pantheon at Rome, excepting that the upper order is there only umbratile, and distinguished by different coloured marbles; in St. Paul’s it is extant out of the wall. The Pantheon is no higher within than its diameter; St. Peter’s is two diameters; this shews too high, the other too low; St. Paul’s is a mean proportion between both, which shews its concave every way, and is very lightsome by the windows of the upper order, which strike down the light thro’ the great colonade that encircles the dome without, and serves for the abutment of the dome, which is brick of two bricks thick; but as it rises every way five feet high, has a course of excellent brick of eighteen inches long banding thro’ the whole thickness; and moreover, to make it still more secure, it is surrounded with a vast chain of iron strongly linked together at every ten feet. This chain is let into a channel cut into the bandage of Portland stone, and defended from the weather by filling the groove with lead.

“The concave was turned upon a center; which was judged necessary to keep the work even and true, though a cupola might be built without a center; but it is observable that the center was laid without any standards from below to support; and as it was both centering and scaffolding, it remained for the use of the painter. Every story of this scaffolding being circular, and the ends of all the ledgers meeting as so many rings, and truly wrought, it supported itself. This machine was an original of the kind, and will be an useful project for the like work, to an architect hereafter.

“It was necessary to give a greater height than the cupola would gracefully allow within, tho’ it is considerably above the roof of the church; yet the old church having before had a very lofty spire of timber and lead, the world expected that the new work should not, in this respect, fall short of the old; the architect was therefore obliged to comply with the humour of the age, and to raise another structure over the first cupola; and this was a cone of brick, so built as to support a stone lanthorn of an elegant figure, and ending in ornaments of copper gilt.

“As the whole church above the vaulting is covered with a substantial oaken roof, and lead, the most durable covering in our climate, so he covered and hid out of sight the brick cone, with another cupola of timber and lead; and between this and the cone, are easy stairs that ascend to the lanthorn. Here the spectator may have a view of such amazing contrivances as are indeed astonishing. He forbore to make little luthern windows in the leaden cupola, as are done out of St. Peter’s, because he had otherwise provided for light enough to the stairs from the lanthorn above, and round the pedestal of the same, which are now seen below; so that he only ribbed the outward cupola, which he thought less Gothic than to stick it full of such little lights in three stories one above another, as is the cupola of St. Peter’s, which could not without difficulty be mended, and, if neglected, would soon damage the timbers.”

As Sir Christopher was sensible, that paintings, tho’ ever so excellent, are liable to decay, he intended to have beautified the inside of the cupola with mosaic work, which strikes the eye of the beholder with amazing lustre, and without the least decay of colours, is as durable as the building itself; but in this he was unhappily over-ruled, tho’ he had undertaken to procure four of the most eminent artists in that profession from Italy; this part is however richly decorated and painted by Sir James Thornhill, who has represented the principal passages of St. Paul’s life in eight compartments, viz. his conversion; his punishing Elymas, the sorcerer, with blindness; his preaching at Athens; his curing the poor cripple at Lystra, and the reverence paid him there by the priests of Jupiter as a God; his conversion of the jailer; his preaching at Ephesus, and the burning of the magic books in consequence of the miracles he wrought there; his trial before Agrippa; his shipwreck on the island of Melita, or Malta, with the miracle of the viper. These paintings are all seen to advantage by means of a circular opening, through which the light is transmitted with admirable effect from the lanthorn above.

The highest or last stone on the top of the lanthorn, was laid by Mr. Christopher Wren, the son of this great architect, in the year 1710; and thus was this noble fabric, lofty enough to be discerned at sea eastward, and at Windsor to the west, begun and compleated in the space of thirty-five years, by one architect, the great Sir Christopher Wren; one principal mason, Mr. Strong; and under one Bishop of London, Dr. Henry Compton: whereas St. Peter’s at Rome, the only structure that can come in competition with it, continued an hundred and fifty five years in building, under twelve successive architects; assisted by the police and interests of the Roman see; attended by the best artists of the world in sculpture, statuary, painting and mosaic work; and facilitated by the ready acquisition of marble from the neighbouring quarries of Tivoli.

_The curiosities in this cathedral which strangers pay for seeing._ On entering the south door, there is a pair of stairs within a small door on the right, leading to the cupola, and the stranger by paying two pence may gratify his curiosity with a prospect from the iron gallery at the foot of the lanthorn, which in a clear day affords a fine view of the river, of this whole metropolis and all the adjacent country, interspersed with pleasant villages.

The ascent to this gallery is by 534 steps, 260 of which are so easy that a child may without difficulty ascend them; but those above are unpleasant, and in some places very dark; but the little light that is afforded is sufficient to shew amazing proofs of the wonderful contrivances of the architect. But as the first gallery, surrounded by a stone balustrade, affords a very fine prospect, many are satisfied, and unwilling to undergo the fatigue of mounting higher.

On the stranger’s descent he is invited to see the whispering gallery, which will likewise cost two pence; he here beholds to advantage the beautiful pavement of the church, and from hence he has the most advantageous view of the fine paintings in the cupola. Here sounds are magnified to an astonishing degree; the least whisper is heard round the whole circumference; the voice of one person softly speaking against the wall on the other side, seems as if he stood at our ear on this, though the distance between them is no less than an hundred and forty feet: and the shutting of the door resounds through the place like thunder, or as if the whole fabric was falling asunder. To this gallery there is an easy ascent for persons of distinction, by a most beautiful flight of stairs.

The stranger is next invited to see the library, the books of which are neither numerous nor valuable; but the floor is artfully inlaid without either nails or pegs, and the wainscoting and book cases are not inelegant.

The next curiosity is the fine model Sir Christopher first caused to be made for building the new cathedral. It was not taken from St. Peter’s at Rome, as is pretended; but was Sir Christopher’s own invention, and the model on which he set the highest value; and it is a great pity, that what was performed as the utmost exertion of the abilities of this great architect, should be suffered to run to decay.

He is next shewn the great bell in the south tower, which weighs 84 c. weight. On this bell the hammer of the great clock strikes the hour, and on a smaller bell are struck the quarters.

The last thing shewn, are what are vulgarly called the geometry stairs, which are so artfully contrived as to hang together without visible support; but this kind of stairs, however curious in themselves, are neither new nor uncommon. _Parentalia. Historical account of the curiosities of London_, &c.

The cathedral church of St. Paul’s is deservedly esteemed the second in Europe, not for magnitude only but for beauty and grandeur. St. Peter’s at Rome is undoubtedly the first, but at the same time it is generally acknowledged by all travellers of taste, that the outside, and particularly the front of St. Paul’s, is much superior to St. Peter’s. The two towers at the west end, though faulty in some respects, are yet elegant, and the portico finely marks the principal entrance. The loggia, crowned with a pediment, with its alto relievo and statues, make in the whole a fine shape, whereas St. Peter’s is a straight line without any break. The dome is extremely magnificent, and by rising higher than that at Rome, is seen to more advantage on a near approach. The inside, though noble, falls short of St. Peter’s. The discontinuing the architrave of the great entablature over the arches in the middle of the isle, is a fault the architects can never forgive. Notwithstanding, without a critical examination, it appears very striking, especially on entering the north or south door. The side isles though small are very elegant, and if it does not equal St. Peter’s, there is much to be said in defence both of it and the architect, who was not permitted to decorate it as he intended, through a want of taste in the managers, who seemed to have forgot that it was intended a national ornament. St. Peter’s has all the advantages of painting and sculpture of the greatest masters, and is encrusted with a variety of the finest marbles, no cost being spared to make it exceed every thing of its kind. The great geometrical knowledge of the architect can never be sufficiently admired, but this can be come at only by a thorough inspection of the several parts.

For the farther satisfaction of the curious reader, we shall conclude this article with an account of the dimensions of St. Paul’s cathedral compared with those of St. Peter’s at Rome, from an account published some years ago: the measures of the latter being taken from the authentic dimensions of the best architects of Rome, reduced to English measure.

│ FEET.│ FEET.

The PLAN, or Length and Breadth. │ St.│ St.
│ Peter.│ Paul.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────┬────────┬────────
The whole length of the church and porch │ 729│ 500
The breadth within the doors of the porticos │ 510│ 250
The breadth of the front with the turrets │ 364│ 180
The breadth of the front without the turrets │ 318│ 110
The breadth of the church and three naves │ 255│ 130
The breadth of the church and widest chapels │ 364│ 180
The length of the porch within │ 218│ 50
The breadth of the porch within │ 40│ 20
The length of the platea at the upper steps │ 291│ 100
The breadth of the nave at the door │ 67│ 40
The breadth of the nave at the third pillar and │ 73│ 40
tribuna │ │
The breadth of the side isles │ 29│ 17
The distance between the pillars of the nave │ 44│ 25
The breadth of the same double pillars at St. │ 29│
Peter’s │ │
The breadth of the same single pillars at St. │ │ 10
Paul’s │ │
The two right sides of the great pilasters of the │ 65:7½│ 25:35
cupola │ │
The distance between the same pilasters │ 72│ 40
The outward diameter of the cupola │ 189│ 145
The inward diameter of the same │ 138│ 100
The breadth of the square by the cupola │ 43│
The length of the same │ 328│
From the door within the cupola │ 313│ 190
From the cupola to the end of the tribuna │ 167│ 170
The breadth of each of the turrets │ 77│ 35
The outward diameter of the lantern │ 36│ 18
The whole space, upon which one pillar stands │ 5906│ 875
The whole space, upon which all the pillars stand │ 23625│ 7000

│ FEET.│ FEET.

The HEIGHT. │ St.│ St.
│ Peter.│ Paul.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────┬────────┬────────
From the ground without to the top of the cross │ 437½│ 340
The turrets as they were at St. Peter’s and are at│ 289½│ 222
St. Paul’s │ │
To the top of the highest statues on the front │ 175│ 135
The first pillars of the Corinthian order │ 74│ 33
The breadth of the same │ 9│ 4
Their basis and pedestals │ 19│ 13
Their capital │ 10│ 5
The architrave, frize, and cornice │ 19│ 10
The Composite pillars at St. Paul’s and Tuscan at │ 25½│ 25
St. Peter’s │ │
The ornaments of the same pillars above, and below│ 14½│ 16
The triangle of the mezzo relievo, with its │ 22½│ 18
cornice │ │
Wide │ 92│ 74
The basis of the cupola to the pedestals of the │ 36½│ 38
pillars │ │
The pillars of the cupola │ 32│ 28
Their basis and pedestals │ 4│ 5
Their capitals, architrave, frize, and cornice │ 12│ 12
From the cornice to the outward slope of the │ 25½│ 40
cupola │ │
The lantern from the cupola to the ball │ 63│ 50
The ball in diameter │ 9│ 6
The cross with its ornaments below │ 14│ 6
The statues upon the front with their pedestals │ 25½│ 15
The outward slope of the cupola │ 89│ 50
Cupola and lantern from the cornice of the front │ 280│ 240
to the top of the cross │ │
The height of the niches in the front │ 20│ 14
Wide │ 9│ 5
The first windows in the front │ 20│ 13
Wide │ 10│ 7

The whole expence of erecting this edifice, on deducting the sums expended in fruitless attempts to repair the old cathedral, amounted to 736,752_l._ 2_s._ 3_d._

_St._ PAUL’S _Bakehouse court_, Godliman’s street.

_St._ PAUL’S _chain_, a lane on the south of St. Paul’s Church yard.

_St._ PAUL’S _Church yard_, 1. The area round St. Paul’s cathedral, surrounded on the north and west chiefly by booksellers and toy-shops, and on the south side by the makers of chairs, screens and cabinets. 2. Behind Covent Garden church.

_St._ PAUL’S _College court_, St. Paul’s Church yard.

_St._ PAUL’S _Covent Garden_, a very noble edifice built by Inigo Jones for a chapel, but now a parish church. See COVENT GARDEN.

PAUL’S _court_, 1. Huggen lane, Thames street. 2. Wood street, Cheapside.

PAUL’S HEAD _court_, Fenchurch street.

_St._ PAUL’S _School_, at the east end of St. Paul’s Church yard, was founded by Dr. John Collet Dean of St. Paul’s in the year 1509, for a Master, an Usher and Chaplain, and an hundred and fifty-three scholars; for the teaching of whom the founder appointed a salary of 34_l._ 13_s._ 4_d._ for the upper Master; for the under Master 17_l._ 6_s._ 8_d._ and for the Chaplain or third Master, 8_l._ _per annum_. He appointed the company of Mercers trustees of this school, and by the improvement of the estate since that time, the good management of the company, and some additional sums left to this foundation, the salaries of the Masters are become considerable; the upper Master having 300_l._ a year, besides the advantage of additional scholars and boarders, by which he generally makes about 200_l._ a year more; the second Master has 250_l._ a year, and the third 90_l._ a year.

The original building was consumed by the fire of London, and soon after the present structure was raised in its place. It is a very singular, and at the same time a very handsome edifice. The central building in which is the school, is of stone; it is much lower than the ends, and has only one series of windows, which are large, and raised a considerable height from the ground. The center is adorned with rustic, and on the top is a handsome pediment, in which are the founder’s arms placed in a shield; upon the apex stands a figure representing Learning. Under this pediment are two windows which are square, and on each side are two circular windows crowned with busts, and the spaces between them are handsomely ornamented by work in relievo. Upon a level with the foot of the pediment runs on either side a handsome balustrade, on which is placed on each side a large bust with a radiant crown, between two flaming vases.

The buildings at the ends of this elegant structure are narrow, and rise to a great height. They are of brick ornamented with stone, and have each a small door, and are crowned at the top with a small balustrade.

_St._ PAUL’S _Shadwell_, owes its existence to the increase of buildings. Shadwell, though now joined to London, was anciently a hamlet belonging to Stepney; but being greatly increased in the number of its inhabitants, Thomas Neale, Esq; erected the present church in the year 1656 for their accommodation; and in 1669, this district was by act of parliament constituted a distinct parish from that of Stepney, and 120_l._ _per annum_ was granted for the maintenance of the Rector in lieu of tithes, besides a considerable glebe, oblations and church dues, so that the living is worth about 324_l._ a year. _Maitland._

This church, which is but a mean edifice built with brick, is eighty-seven feet long, and sixty-three broad; the height to the roof is twenty-eight feet, and that of the steeple sixty. The body has a few windows with rustic arches, and some very mean ones in the roof. At the corners of the building are balls placed on a kind of small pedestals. The tower is carried up without ornament, and is terminated with balls at the corners in the same manner as the body of the church, and is crowned with a plain low turret.

PAUL’S _wharf_, near Bennet’s Hill.☐

PAUL’S _wharf stairs_, Paul’s wharf.☐

PAY OFFICE _of the Navy_, a plain building in Broad street near London wall, under the direction of the Treasurer and Paymaster, who pay for all the stores for the use of the royal navy, and the wages of the sailors in his Majesty’s service.

The Treasurer, who is the principal officer, has a salary of 2000_l._ _per annum_, and the Paymaster, who is also accomptant, has 500_l._ a year; under this last are eight clerks who attend the payment of wages; three, who have 80_l._ a year; and five who have 40_l._ a year each: besides two extra-clerks, who have each 50_l._ a year. There are also five clerks for paying bills in course, and writing ledgers, viz. three who have 80_l._ a year; and two who have only 40_l._ a year each; besides an extra-clerk who has 50_l._ a year.

In this office there is likewise a Cashier of the victualling, who has a salary of 150_l._ _per annum_, and has three clerks under him, one of 70_l._ one of 50_l._ and one of 40_l._ a year.

PEACHTREE _court_, Butcher row, without Temple Bar.‡

PEACHY _court_, Sheer lane, within Temple bar.

PEACOCK _alley_, Milford lane, in the Strand.*

PEACOCK _court_, 1. Fleet market.* 2. Giltspur street, without Newgate.* 3. Whitechapel.*

PEACOCK _lane_, Newington butts.*

PEACOCK _yard_, 1. Islington.* 2. Porter’s street.* 3. Whitecross street, Cripplegate.* 4. Whitehorse alley, Cowcross, Smithfield.*

PEAD’S _yard_, Bankside, Southwark.†

PEAK _street_, Swallow street.†

PEAL _alley_, Upper Shadwell.†

PEAL _yard_, Mint street.†

PEARL _court_, Little Pearl street, Spitalfields.* 2. White Friars.*

PEARL _street_, 1. Grey Eagle street, Spitalfields.* 2. Silver street, Bloomsbury.*

PEARTREE _alley_, 1. Cinnamon street.‡ 2. Shoreditch.‡ 3. Wapping.‡

PEARTREE _court_, 1. Aldersgate street.‡ 2. Clerkenwell close.‡ 3. Hockley in the Hole.‡

PEARTREE _street_, Brick lane, Old street.‡

PEASCOD _court_, St. John’s street, Smithfield.

PEAS PORRIGE _alley_, Gravel lane.‖

PEAS _yard_, Nightingale lane.

PECKHAM, a pleasant village in Surry, in the parish of Camberwell. Here is the seat of the late Lord Trevor, built in the reign of King James II. by Sir Thomas Bond, who being deeply engaged in the pernicious schemes of that imprudent Prince, was obliged to leave the kingdom with him, when the house was plundered by the populace, and became forfeited to the crown. The front of the house stands to the north, with a spacious garden before it, from which extends two rows of large elms, of considerable length, through which the Tower of London terminates the prospect. But on each side of this avenue you have a view of London; and the masts of vessels appearing at high water over the trees and houses up to Greenwich, greatly improve the prospect. _Peckham_, which lies on the back side of the gardens, is shut out from the view by plantations. The kitchen garden and the walls were planted with the choicest fruit trees from France, and an experienced gardener was sent for from Paris to have the management of them; so that the collection of fruit trees in this garden has been accounted one of the best in England.

After the death of the late Lord Trevor, this seat was purchased by a private gentleman, who began to make very considerable improvements, and had he lived a few years longer, would have rendered it a very delightful retreat.

There are also at Peckham several other villas, and neat houses of retirement, inhabited by the tradesmen of London, and those who have retired from business.

PECKHAM RYE, a village in Surry, on the south side of Peckham.

PEDLARS _street_, New Bond street.

PEEL _court_, Glasshouse yard, Goswell street.

PEEL _yard_, near Peel court, Glasshouse yard.

PEERLESS POOL, near Old street road, was formerly a spring that overflowing its banks, caused a very dangerous pond, which from the number of persons who lost their lives there, obtained the name of Perilous Pool. To prevent these accidents it was in a manner filled up, till in the year 1743, Mr. Kemp converted it into what may perhaps be esteemed one of the compleatest swimming baths in the world; and as it is the only one of the kind in Christendom, it may deserve a particular notice.

You enter from a bowling-green on the south side, by a neat arcade thirty-feet long, furnished with a small collection of modern books for the entertainment of those subscribers who delight in reading. Contiguous are many dressing apartments; some of which are open, and others rendered private, all paved with purbeck stone; and on each side of the bath is a bower divided into apartments for dressing. At the other end is placed a circular bench, capable of accommodating forty gentlemen at a sitting, under the shelter of a wall. One side is inclosed by a mount 150 feet long, planted with a great variety of shrubs, and on the top is an agreeable terrace walk planted with limes. The pleasure bath is 170 feet long, and above 100 broad; it is five feet deep at the bottom in the middle, and under four feet at the sides, and the descent into it is by four pair of marble steps to a fine gravel bottom. Here is also a cold bath, generally allowed to be the largest in England, it being forty feet long, and twenty feet broad, with two flights of marble steps, and a dressing room at each end; at four feet deep is a bottom of lettice work, under which the water is five feet deep. To these the ingenious projector has added a well stocked fish pond 320 feet long, for the diversion of those subscribers who are fond of angling, and adorned on each side with arbours, and with a terrace, the slopes of which are planted with many thousand shrubs, and the walks one of gravel, and the other of grass, are bordered with stately limes. The east end the garden extends to a genteel public house, and the westward is terminated by another garden, and a well-built private house inhabited by Mr. Kemp, the son of the ingenious projector, who after having made these improvements, changed the name from _Perilous_ to _Peerless Pool_.

PEGHT’S _yard_, Castle lane.†

PELHAM _street_, Brick lane, Spitalfields.†

PELICAN _court_, Little Britain.*

PELICAN _stairs_, Wapping.*

PELICAN _yard_, Butcher row, East Smithfield.*

PEMBERTON’S _rents_, 1. Hand alley.† 2. New street.†

PEMBERTON _row_, Fetter lane.†

PEMELL’S _Almshouse_, at Mile-end, was founded by Mr. John Pemell, citizen and draper, in the year 1698, for four poor drapers widows, and the same number of seamen’s widows, to be presented by the Churchwardens of Old Stepney parish. Each of these almswomen have an allowance of 1_s._ 8_d._ per week, half a chaldron of coals every year, and a gown every other year. _Maitland._

PEMLICO, near Buckingham House, St. James’s Park.

PENNINGTON _street_, Old Gravel lane.†

PENNYBARBER’S _alley_, Stony lane.‖

PENNYFIELD _street_, Poplar.

PENNY POST OFFICE, an office unknown in other countries, was projected by Mr. David Murray, an upholder in Pater noster row in the year 1683, who by this admirable and useful project, deserves to be considered as a benefactor to the city, and to have his name transmitted down to posterity. He communicated the scheme to Mr. William Dockwra, who carried it on for some time with great success, till the government laid claim to it as a royal prerogative; Dockwra was obliged to submit, and in return had a pension of 200_l._ _per annum_ allowed him by the King during life.

It was erected for carrying letters not only of one sheet but of several, to any part of this great metropolis, or the adjacent villages, on paying only one penny on delivering the letter to be thus carried: but at some of the more distant villages, an additional penny is demanded of the person to whom the letter is delivered.

This office is under the direction of the Postmaster-general; who appoints, as managers, a Comptroller, an Accomptant, a Receiver and Comptroller’s clerk; who have under their management six sorters, and eight subsorters of letters, seventy-four messengers, or letter-carriers, and 334 houses within the bills of mortality, for receiving or taking in letters, which are divided among the six offices following; the general office in St. Christopher’s Church yard, and the five offices called the sorting houses, one at Westminster, one at Lincoln’s Inn, St. Paul’s office, in Pater noster row, St. Mary Overy’s in Southwark, and the Tower hill office: besides these there are 500 shops and coffee-houses, from whence the messengers collect and carry the letters to their proper offices every hour, where being sorted, they are sent out again to be delivered. But as each of the six offices has a number of villages under its peculiar direction, those letters that require great speed should be sent to that office, whose peculiar province it is to forward them to the village to which you would have them sent. This renders it necessary to give a list of these villages and places, peculiarly under the care of each office: but we shall not attempt to follow the other writers, who have prefixed to the names of these villages the number of times to which letters are carried to, and returned from each; because that is entirely uncertain, and it is sufficient that letters are carried and returned from each at least once a day; since this is all that can be depended upon.

In the map we have given of the environs round London, the extent and limits of the Penny Post are shewn by a circular coloured line drawn round the city.

The chief office in St. Christopher’s alley, Threadneedle street, to which belong, one sorter, two subsorters, twenty messengers, and seventy-three receiving houses. This office collects, receives, conveys, and delivers letters to and from the following places, besides what it delivers in its own proper district in London.

Aldersbrook
Avery-hatch
Barking
Bednal green
Bishops-hall
Bow
Bromley in Middlesex
Bush-hall
Cambridge heath
Chigwel
Chigwel row
Dalston
Edmonton
Green-man
Green-street
Hackney
Hagerstone
Ham East and West
Hoxton
Jenkins
Ilford
Kingsland
Layton-stone
Loughton-hall
Low-layton
Locksford
Mile-end
Newington green
Newington stoke
Oldford
Palmer’s green
Plaistow in Essex
Rippleside
Ruckfolds
Southgate
Stepney
Stratford
Tottenham
Tottenham High cross
Valentines
Upton
Walthamstow
Wansted
Winchmore hill
Woodford
Woodford row, and bridge

St. Paul’s office is kept in Queen’s head alley, in Pater noster row, which collects, receives, conveys and delivers letters to and from the following and adjacent places, besides what it delivers within its proper district in London.

Black-mary’s hole
Boarded river
Cambray house
Cold bath
Copenhagen
Frog lane
Holloway, Upper and Lower
Islington
Mountmill
Sir John Oldcastle’s
Torrington lane
Wood’s close

The Temple office is kept in Chichester’s rents in Chancery lane, which collects, receives, conveys and delivers letters and parcels to and from the following and adjacent places, besides what it delivers within its own proper district in town.

Battle bridge
Bone gate
Brill
Cole harbour
Coney hatch
East Barnet
Finchley
Frog lane
Hampstead
Highgate
Hornsey
Kentish town
Mussel hill
Pancras
Pinder of Wakefield
South green
Totteridge
Whetstone
Wood green

Westminster office is kept in Pump court near Charing cross, which collects, receives, conveys and delivers letters and parcels to and from the following and adjacent places, besides what it delivers within its own proper district in town.

Abery farm
Acton, East and West
Acton wells
Barry’s walk
Base watering
Black lands
Bloody bridge
Bluncoat lane
Bollow lane
Boston house
Brentford Old & New
Brentford end
Brent’s cow house
Bride lane house
Brook green
Broom houses
Brompton park
Burrows
Castle-bear
Chelsea, Great and Little
Chelsea college
—— common
—— fields
Child’s hill
Chiswick
Corney house
Counters bridge
Cow house farm
Crab tree house
Dowel street
Daws lane
Dollars hill
Ealing, Great & Little
Ealing lane
Earl’s court
Foordhook
Frog lane
Fryars place
Fulham
Fulham fields
Gaggle goose green
Great and Little Holland house
Gibb’s green
Grain house
Green man, in Uxbridge road
Gunnersbury
Gutters hedge
Hammersmith
Hanger end
Hanger lane
Haven
Hendon
Hide
Hog lane
Holsdon green
Hoywood hill
Hudicon fields
Kensington
Kensington gravel pits
Kilborn
Knightsbridge
Laurence street
Leasing green
Lime kilns
London stile
Lord Mayor’s Banqueting house
Maddox lane
Mary bone, and Park
Masha Mapes, and Masha Brands
Mill hill
Neathouses
Neesdon
Noman’s lands
North end
North highway
Notting hills
Paddington
Paddington green
Paddingwick green
Page’s street
Parson’s green
Pimlico
Purser’s cross
Sandy end
Shepherd’s bush
Shevrick green
Shoot-up hill
Sion hill
Sion house
Sion lane
St. John’s wood
Stanford brook
Starch green
Strand on the green
Sutton court, and Little Sutton
Tottenham court
Turnham green
Tyburn road, and house
Waltham green
Wemley
Wemley green
Westburn green
Westfield
West end
Wilsdon green
Windmill lane

Southwark office is kept in Green dragon court, near St. Mary Overy’s church, which collects, receives, conveys and delivers letters and parcels to and from the following and adjacent places, besides what it delivers within its own proper district in Southwark and London.

Balam
Barn-elms
Barnstown
Battersea
Battersea reys
Blackheath
Bristow causeway
Brockly, Upper and Lower
Burntash
Camberwell
Charlton
Clapham, and Common
Coleharbour
Deptford, Upper and Lower
Dulwich, and common
East and West Sheen
Eltham
Gammon hill
Garret’s green
Greenwich
Grove street
Ireland green
Kennington
Kew
Kew green
Knights hill
Lambeth
Lambeth marsh
Lee
Lewisham
Limekilns
Longbarn
Longhedge
Loughberry house
Martin abbey and mills
March gate
Mitcham
Mortlack
Morder
Mottingham
New cross
Newington butts
Nine elms
Norwood
Peckham town, and Rye
Pigs march
Plumstead
Putney green
Putney heath
Red-house
Rickle-marsh
Roehampton
Rotherhithe
Sidnam
South Lambeth
Stockwell
Stretham
Tooting, Upper and Lower
Vauxhall
Walworth
Wandsworth, and Common
Wimbleton
Woolwich

Hermitage office is kept in Queen street on Little Tower hill, which collects, receives, conveys and delivers letters and parcels to and from the following and adjacent places, besides what it delivers within its own proper district in town.

Blackwall
Isle of Dogs
King David’s fort
Lime hole
Limehouse
Poplar
Ratcliff
Stepney causeway

Several of the country messengers, and others for remote places, going on their walks by six o’clock in the morning, letters and parcels ought to be put in at the receiving houses before six o’clock over-night; otherwise a whole day may be lost in the delivery: but letters for places that are nearer, are generally collected and delivered two or three times a day.

All general post letters, both foreign and domestic, directed to the places above mentioned, not being post towns, are conveyed from the aforesaid offices every day at twelve o’clock; and answers being put into the receiving houses in the country towns, will next night be safely carried to the General Post office, by the officers appointed for that purpose.

PENSIONERS _alley_, King street, Westminster.

PEPPER _alley_, 1. by the Bridge Foot, in the Borough. 2. Down’s street, Hyde Park road. 3. Goswell street.

PEPPER _alley stairs_, the next stairs above the bridge, in Southwark.

PEPPER _street_, Duke street, in the Mint.

PERKIN’S _rents_, Peter street, Soho.†

PERKIN’S _yard_, Blackman street.†

PERRIWINKLE _street_, Ratcliff cross.

PERSTON’S _yard_, in the Minories.†

PESTHOUSE _fields_, by Pesthouse row, Old street.

PESTHOUSE _row_, adjoining to the French hospital in Old street. Here stood, till the year 1737, the city Pesthouse, which consisted of several tenements, and was erected as a Lazaretto for the reception of distressed and miserable objects, infected by the dreadful plague in the year 1665. _Maitland._

PETER AND KEYS _court_, Peter lane, Cow cross, Smithfield.*

PETERBOROUGH _court_, Fleet street.

_St._ PETER AD VINCULA, situated to the north west corner of Northumberland walk, at the end of the new armoury, in the Tower; was founded by King Edward III. and dedicated by the name of _St. Peter in Chains_, or St. Peter ad Vincula. This is a plain Gothic building void of all ornament, sixty-six feet in length, fifty-four in breadth, and twenty-four feet high from the floor to the roof. The walls, which have Gothic windows, are strengthened at the corners with rustic, and crowned with a plain blocking course. The tower is plain, and is crowned with a turret.

The living is a rectory in the gift of the King, valued at about 60_l._ a year. The Rector, as Minister of the Tower garrison, is paid by his Majesty; and the living is exempt from archiepiscopal jurisdiction.