Chapter II: Preface (1)

IT is hoped that the great variety of new, useful, curious and entertaining articles which will be found in the following work, will entitle it to a favourable reception from the public. No pains nor expence have been spared to give it as much accuracy and perfection as the nature of such a work will admit of. And though we do not flatter ourselves that it will be absolutely free from errors or imperfections, yet we doubt not but the candid reader will find so much to commend, that he will easily be inclined to excuse some unavoidable deficiencies.

The Environs of London, though they contain many of the most remarkable seats and places in the kingdom, have never before been included in any account of that metropolis; and we are persuaded, that the most intelligent enquirer will here find numberless curiosities, not hitherto taken notice of by any other writers: besides, we have not only been particular in our descriptions of whatever is remarkable twenty miles round; but to assist his observation, we have added a map, which we flatter ourselves will be found to have some advantages over any other that has yet appeared. This map, and these descriptions, will serve both as a guide and an instructor to the travelling Virtuosi, whether natives or foreigners, in their little excursions to any part of these delightfully adorned and richly cultivated environs.

In order to render the knowledge of this metropolis as complete as possible, we have necessarily been obliged, in conformity with our plan, to treat of what may to some appear little and uninteresting, as well as of what is great and important. Among these the citizens are particularly interested in knowing the extent and limits of the wards in which they reside: and it was absolutely necessary to mention in their proper places all the several companies that compose their whole body: and as every inhabitant of the kingdom may, at one time or another, have occasion to visit or write to their friends or relations residing in this great city, the names and situation of all the several streets, lanes, rows, courts, yards and allies could not be omitted. With regard to these an ingenious gentleman has furnished us with a key, which has let us into the origin of many of their names; and this part of our work is farther illustrated by a new and correct plan.

The prints with which the whole is decorated, are all engraved by the best hands, after original drawings, which were taken on purpose for this work, from the several objects themselves, at a very great expence; and we imagine they will not only be considered as an ornament, but that they will be found of use in illustrating the verbal descriptions.

We beg leave in this place to make our grateful acknowledgments to several of the nobility and gentry, who have been pleased to favour us on this occasion with lists and accounts of their pictures, curiosities, &c. which have greatly enriched and added a value to our work; and being entirely new, cannot but be acceptable to the public.

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LONDON

AND ITS

ENVIRONS

DESCRIBED, &c.

† _Those with this mark generally derived their name from the ground
landlord, who built the street, lane, or alley, &c._

* _From signs._

☐ _From neighbouring places, as churches, &c._

‡ _From trees formerly growing there._

║ _From ridicule._

§ _From their situation, as backwards, forwards, with respect to other
streets._

A

ABBEY _Church of St. Peter’s, Westminster_. Many have been the fables invented and propagated by the monks, relating to the original foundation of this ancient edifice; but the most probable account is given by those who place it under Sebert, King of the East Saxons, who died in 616. These say, that this Prince being converted to christianity by Austin’s discourses, and his uncle Ethelbert’s example, erected this church on the ruins of a temple dedicated to Apollo, in the island of Thorney, and caused Mellitus, Bishop of London, to consecrate it to St. Peter.

As many ridiculous miracles have been related of its foundation, it is the less surprizing that its dedication should also be represented as miraculous, and that St. Peter himself, five hundred years after his decease, should be represented by the monks, as doing honour to the new fabric, by performing the ceremony himself. For according to the legend, the King having ordered Mellitus to perform the ceremony, St. Peter over-night called upon Edricus, a fisherman, and desired to be ferried over to Thorney, which happened to be then overflowed by the heavy rains that had lately fallen; the fisherman consented, and having carried over the Apostle, he saw him consecrate the church amidst a grand chorus of celestial music, and a glorious appearance of heavenly lights. After which the Apostle returning, discovered himself to the fisherman, and bid him tell Mellitus what he had heard and seen, and as a proof of his divine mission, gave him a miraculous draught of salmon, and then assured him, that none of his profession should ever want that kind of fish in the proper season, provided they made an offering of the tenth fish for the use of the new church; which custom, it seems, was continued by the fishermen four hundred years after.

This church and its monastery were afterwards repaired and enlarged by Offa, King of Mercia, but being destroyed by the Pagan Danes, they were rebuilt by King Edgar, who endowed them with lands and manors, and in the year 969 granted them many ample privileges.

The church and monastery having again suffered by the ravages of the Danes, were again rebuilt by Edward the Confessor, who pulled down the old church, and erected a most magnificent one, for that age, in its room, in the form of a cross, which afterwards became a pattern for that kind of building. The work being finished in the year 1065, he caused it to be consecrated with the greatest pomp and solemnity, and by several charters not only confirmed all its ancient rights and privileges, but endowed it with many rich manors, and additional immunities: ordained that all its lands and possessions, should be subject to none but its own jurisdiction, and the convent be free from the authority of the Bishop of London; and the church, by a bull of Pope Nicholas I. was constituted the place for the inauguration of the Kings of England. In short, he gave it a charter of sanctuary, in which he declares, that any person whatsoever, let his crimes be ever so great, who takes sanctuary in that holy place, shall be assured of life, liberty, and limbs, and that none of his ministers, nor those of his successors, should seize any of his goods, lands or possessions, under pain of everlasting damnation, and that whoever presumed to act contrary to this grant, should lose his name, worship, dignity, and power, and with the traitor Judas, be in the everlasting fire of hell. This was the pious language of St. Edward the Confessor, and from this charter, Westminster Abbey became an asylum for traitors, murderers, robbers, and the most abandoned miscreants, who lived there in open defiance of the laws.

This, and King Edward’s other charters, in which he recites the ridiculous story of its consecration by St. Peter, as above related, its destruction by the Danes, the grants and privileges of his predecessors, and those bestowed by himself, drew people thither from all parts, so that in a short time there was not sufficient room in the Abbey church for the accommodation of the numerous inhabitants, without incommoding the monks; he therefore caused a church to be erected on the north side of the monastery, for the use of the inhabitants, and dedicated it to St. Margaret.

William the Conqueror, to shew his regard to the memory of his late friend King Edward, no sooner arrived in London, than he repaired to this church, and offered a sumptuous pall, as a covering for his tomb; he also gave fifty marks of silver, together with a very rich altar cloth, and two caskets of gold; and the Christmas following was solemnly crowned there, his being the first coronation performed in that place.

The next Prince who improved this great work, was Henry III. who in the year 1200 began to erect a new chapel to the blessed Virgin; but about twenty years after, finding the walls and steeple of the old structure much decayed, he pulled them all down, with a design to enlarge, and rebuild them in a more regular manner; but he did not live to accomplish this great work, which was not compleated till 1285, about fourteen years after his decease. And this is the date of the building as it now stands.

About the year 1502, King Henry began that magnificent structure which is now generally called by his name; for this purpose, he pulled down the chapel of Henry III. already mentioned, and an adjoining house called the White Rose Tavern; this chapel, like the former, he dedicated to the blessed Virgin, and designing it for a burial place for himself and his posterity, he carefully ordered in his will, that none but those of royal blood should be permitted to lie there.

At length on the general suppression of religious houses, the Abbey was surrendered to Henry VIII. by William Benson, the Abbot, and seventeen of the monks, in the year 1539, when its revenues amounted to 3977_l._ 6_s._ 4_d._ ¾ _per annum_, a sum at least equal to 20,000_l._ a year at present. Besides its furniture, which was of inestimable value, it had in different parts of the kingdom, no less than two hundred, and sixteen manors, seventeen hamlets, and ninety-seven towns and villages. And tho’ the Abbey was only the second in rank, yet in all other respects it was the chief in the kingdom; and its Abbots having episcopal jurisdiction, had a seat in the house of Lords.

The Abbey thus dissolved, that Prince erected first into a college of secular Canons, under the government of a Dean, an honour which he chose to confer on the last Abbot. This establishment, however, was of no long duration, for two years after he converted it into a bishopric, which was dissolved nine years after by Edward VI. who restored the government by a Dean, which continued till Mary’s accession to the crown; when she, in 1557, restored it to its ancient conventual state; but Queen Elizabeth again ejected the monks, and in 1560 erected Westminster Abbey into a college, under the government of a Dean, and twelve secular Canons or Prebendaries, a Schoolmaster, Usher, and forty Scholars, denominated the Queen’s, to be educated in the liberal sciences preparatory to the university, and to have all the necessaries of life, except cloathing, of which they were to have only a gown every year. To this foundation also belong choristers, singing-men, an organist, twelve almsmen, &c.

The Abbey church, which was stripped of many of its decorations by Henry VIII. and was much damaged both within and without during the unhappy civil commotions that defaced the ancient beauty of most of the religious houses in this kingdom, has continued from the death of Henry VII. almost to the present time, without any other considerable repairs, and was gradually falling to ruin, when the Parliament interposed, and ordered a thorough reparation at the national expence.

This venerable fabric has been accordingly new coated on the outside, except that part called Henry the Seventh’s chapel, which is indeed a separate building: and the west end has been adorned with two new stately towers that have been lately rebuilt, in such a manner as to be thought equal in point of workmanship to any part of the ancient building; but though such pains have been taken in the coating, to preserve the ancient Gothic grandeur, that this church in its distant prospect has all the venerable majesty of its former state, yet the beautiful carving with which it was once adorned, is irretrievably lost; the buttresses, once capped with turrets, are now made in plain pyramidical forms, and topped with freestone; and the statues of our ancient Kings that formerly stood in niches, near the tops of those buttresses, are for the most part removed, and their broken fragments lodged in the roof of Henry the Seventh’s chapel. Three of these statues are still standing next the towers on the north side, and indeed that is the only side where you can take a view of the Abbey, the other side being so incumbered with buildings, that even its situation cannot be distinguished.

What next to the new towers principally engages the attention on the outside, is the Gothic portico which leads into the north cross, which by some has been stiled _the Beautiful_, or _Solomon’s Gate_. This was probably built by Richard II. as his arms carved in stone was formerly over the gate. It has been lately beautified, and over it is a new window admirably well executed. Besides these there is little in the outward appearance capable of engaging the attention, and its principal beauties are to be found within.

The author of the work entitled _English Architecture_, seems to prefer the Gothic to the Grecian architecture, as most suited to the purposes of devotion, and gives this edifice as an instance, “There is in it, says he, a majesty and grandeur, a sedate, and if we may so speak, religious dignity, which immediately strikes the imagination; and never failed to impress on the most insensible observer, that holy awe which should attend, and which always disposes the mind to devotion.” But this holy awe, thus mechanically incited, would be as friendly to Paganism as to Christianity; and indeed, this awe is so far from being holy, that it is a thing entirely distinct from rational piety and devotion, and may be felt without any inclination to enter the choir.

Indeed the multiplicity of puerile ornaments profusely lavished, the strong and beautiful perspective, and that romantic air of grandeur so visible in this structure, and above all the height of the middle isle at our first entrance, fill the eye, strike us in a very forcible manner, and at once raise our admiration and astonishment. To which let it be added, that the ranges of venerable monuments on each hand, some of them most magnificent, have a natural tendency to strike the mind with an uncommon degree of solemnity, and to raise the most serious reflections.

The extent of the building is very considerable; for it is 360 feet within the walls, at the nave it is 72 feet broad, and at the cross 195. The Gothic arches and side isles are supported by 48 pillars of grey marble, each composed of clusters of very slender ones, and covered with ornaments. The moment you enter the west door the whole body of the church opens itself at once to your view, the pillars dividing the nave from the side isles being so formed as not to obstruct the side openings, nor is your sight terminated to the east, but by the fine painted window over Edward the Confessor’s chapel, which anciently, when the altar was low, and adorned with the beautiful shrine of that pretended saint, must have afforded one of the finest prospects that can be imagined.

The pillars are terminated to the east by a sweep, enclosing the chapel of Edward the Confessor, in a kind of semicircle. And it is worthy of observation, that as far as the gates of the choir, the pillars are filletted with brass, but all beyond with stone. Answering to the middle range of pillars, there are others in the wall, which as they rise, spring into semiarches, and are every where met in acute angles by their opposites, and meeting in the roof are adorned with a variety of carvings. On the arches of the pillars are galleries of double columns fifteen feet wide, covering the side isles, and enlightened by a middle range of windows, over which there is an upper range of larger windows, and by these, together with the four capital windows, facing the north, east, south and west, the whole fabric is so admirably enlightened, that in the day you are never dazzled with its brightness, nor incommoded by its being too dark. But before we leave these capital windows, which are all finely painted, it is necessary to observe, that in the great west window is a curious painting of Edward III. to the left of which in a smaller window is a painting of one of our Kings, supposed to be Richard II. but the colours being of a water blue the features of the face cannot be distinguished. On the other side the great window is a lively representation of Edward the Confessor in his robes, and under his feet are painted his arms. At the bottom of the walls between the pillars are shallow niches, arched about eight or ten feet high, on which the arms of the original benefactors are depicted, and over them are their titles, &c. but these are almost all concealed by the monuments of the dead placed before them, many of which are extremely noble, and which we shall particularly examine after having gone through the several parts of the edifice.

After viewing the open part of the church, the next thing to be seen is the choir, which can only be done during the times of divine service. The grand entrance into it is by a pair of fine iron gates, on each side of which is a very magnificent tomb. The floor is paved with the finest black and white marble. The ancient stalls are covered with Gothic acute arches, supported by small iron pillars, and are painted purple; but what is most worthy of observation, is an ancient portrait near the pulpit, of Richard II. sitting in a gilt chair, dressed in a green vest flowered with gold, with gold shoes powdered with pearls. This piece is six feet eleven inches in length, and three feet seven inches in breadth; but the lower part is much defaced.

The next thing worthy of observation is the fine altar enclos’d with a curious balustrade, within which is a pavement of mosaic work, laid at the expence of Abbot Ware, in the year 1272, and is said to be one of the most beautiful of its kind in the world: the stones of which it is composed are porphyry, jasper, lydian and serpentine. The altar is a beautiful piece of marble, removed from Whitehall, and presented to this church by order of her majesty Queen Anne. On each side of the altar are doors, opening into St. Edward’s chapel.

_Of the several Chapels in Westminster Abbey._ Besides that of Henry VII. which, as we have already observed, is a separate building, and will therefore be mentioned by itself when we have finished our survey of the Abbey, there are ten chapels, round that of St. Edward the Confessor, which stands as it were in the center, and, as has been said, is inclosed in the body of the church, at the east end of the choir, behind the altar; these, beginning from the north cross, and passing round to the south cross, are in the following order: St. Andrew’s, St. Michael’s, St. John the Evangelist’s, Islip’s chapel, St. John the Baptist’s, St. Paul’s, Henry the Fifth’s, St. Nicholas’s, St. Edmund’s, and St. Benedict’s.

_The Chapel of St. Edward._ The first curiosity that here fixes our attention, is the ancient shrine erected by Henry III. upon the canonization of Edward King of England, the third of that name before the conquest, and the last of the Saxon race; a Prince who owed the title of Confessor and Saint, to the vast sums he bestowed on the church, and the sollicitations of the monks, than to his own personal merit: for he was a bad son, a bad husband, and so bad a king, that he shewed greater favour to the Normans than to his own people, and by his folly prepared the way for the conquest. He died in the year 1066, and was canonized by Pope Alexander III. in 1269. This shrine, which was once esteemed the glory of England, is now much defaced and neglected. It was composed of stones of various colours, beautifully enriched with all the cost that art could devise. No sooner was it erected, than the wealth of the kingdom flowed to it from all quarters. Henry III. set the first example, though he afterwards made use of the jewels and treasure he offered there, to defray the charges of an expedition into France. Before this shrine was a lamp kept continually burning, on one side stood a silver image of the blessed Virgin, which with two jewels of immense value, were presented by Queen Eleanor, the wife of Henry III. on the other side stood another image of the Virgin Mary, wrought in ivory, presented by Thomas Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury. Here also Edward I. offered the Scots regalia and chair, in which the kings of Scotland used to be crowned, which is still preserved and shewn to all strangers. And about the year 1280, Alphonso, third son to the last mentioned king, offered here the golden coronet of Llewellyn, Prince of Wales, and other jewels; but it would almost fill a volume to enumerate the offerings made at this shrine. Yet it is now so stripped as to afford no satisfaction, except to the curious; however some of the stone-work with which it is adorned, is still to be seen. This stone-work is hollow within, and now incloses a large chest, which Mr. Keep, soon after the coronation of James II. found to contain the remains of St. Edward; for it being broken by accident, he discovered a number of bones, and turning them up, found a crucifix, richly ornamented and enamell’d with a gold chain of twenty inches long, both which he presented to his Majesty, who ordered the bones to be replaced in the old coffin, and enclosed in a new one made very strong, and clamp’d with iron.

On the south side of this shrine lies Editha, daughter to Goodwyn, Earl of Kent, and Queen to St. Edward, with whom she lived eighteen years, and tho’ she was the most accomplished woman of that age, confessed on her death-bed, that he suffered her to live and die a virgin; and, as an ancient manuscript in the Cotton library has it, “nathelees, tho’ the Kinge had a wyfe, he lived ev’moe in chastete, and clennes, wythowten any fleshley dedes doynge wyth his wyfe the Queen, and so dyd the Queen on her syde.” She survived her husband eight years, and beheld all the miseries consequent upon his dying without issue. She was however treated with great respect by William the Conqueror, who allowed her an apartment in the King’s palace at Winchester, where she died, and was interred here, by his express orders.

Near the remains of this Princess lie those of Queen Maud, surnam’d the Good, the daughter of Malcolm Conmair, King of Scotland, to whom she was espoused, in order to unite the Saxon and Norman lines, and thereby to reconcile the affections of the English to the future Kings that should spring from them. She died on the 11th of May 1118. This excellent Princess was distinguished by her many virtues, particularly her humility, and her placing her chief delight in relieving the poor.

On the north side of this chapel is the tomb of Henry III. the pannels are of polish’d porphyry, and around them is mosaic work of gold and scarlet. At the corners of the table are twisted pillars, gilt, and enamell’d, and upon it is placed the effigy of that King in brass gilt, finely executed. He died in 1272, aged 65, after a troublesome reign of 56 years.

At the feet of the last mentioned Prince lies the effigy of Eleanor, Queen to Edward I. On the sides of this monument are engraven the arms of Castile and Leon, quarterly, and those of Ponthieu, hanging on vines and oak-trees, and round the copper verge is embossed this inscription in Saxon characters;

_Icy gist Alianor Jadis Reyne de Angleterre,
Femme al. Re. Edward Fiz._

That is,

_Here lies Eleanor, once Queen of England,
Wife to King Edward._

It is remarkable, that the body of this Queen was only interred here, and that her heart was placed in the choir of the friars predicants in London.

There is also here a large plain coffin of grey marble, composed of seven stones, four of which form the sides, two the ends, and one the cover. This rough unpolished tomb incloses the body of the glorious King Edward I. just mentioned, who was born on the 17th of June 1239. He was named Edward, in honour of Edward the Confessor, and afterwards surnamed Long Shanks, from his tall and slender habit of body. This brave Prince died on the 7th of July 1307, aged 68.

In this chapel is a tomb of black marble, to the memory of Philippa, the third daughter to William Earl of Hainault, and Queen to King Edward III. who bestowed a profusion of expence on her tomb, round which were placed as ornaments, the brazen statues of no less than thirty Kings, Princes, and noble personages her relations.

Tho’ Edward III. was interred in the same grave as the Queen, he has a monument erected for him adjoining to hers, covered with a Gothic canopy. The effigy of this Prince, who died June 21, 1377, lies on a tomb of grey marble, and at his head are placed the shield and sword carried before him in France: the latter is seven feet long, and weighs eighteen pounds. This tomb was, like the former, surrounded with statues, particularly with those of his children.

Next to this is the tomb of Richard II. and his Queen, over which is a canopy of wood, remarkable for a painting of the Virgin Mary and our Saviour still visible. This Prince was murdered on Valentine’s day 1399, and on the robing of his effigy are curiously wrought, peascod shells open, and the peas out, perhaps in allusion to his being once in full possession of sovereignty, which before his murder, was reduced to an empty title.

Between St. Edward’s shrine, and the tomb of Queen Philippa, under a large stone, once plated with brass, lies the great Thomas of Woodstock, Duke of Gloucester, and uncle to the above Richard II. who murdered him on the 8th of September, 1397, for being too free and too faithful a monitor.

Here is also a table monument in memory of Margaret, daughter to Edward IV. by his Queen Elizabeth Woodville; and a small monument of black Lydian marble finely polished, in memory of Elizabeth Tudor, the second daughter of Henry VIII who died at three years of age.

_Henry the Fifth’s Chapel_, is only parted from St. Edward’s by an iron screen, on each side of which are statues as big as the life. His monument, which is surrounded with iron rails and gates, is of black marble, and upon it is placed his statue; but what is very remarkable, it lies without the head. Your guides say, that the body is heart of oak, and the head of beaten silver; as were also the scepter and other ensigns of royalty with which this statue was adorned; but that the value of these occasioned their being sacrilegiously taken away. This is by some writers represented at a ridiculous tale. Over this tomb is a chauntry chapel, in which the weapons, armour, and caparisons of Henry V. were carefully laid up, and remain to this day.

Near this tomb lies enclosed in an old wooden chest, the remains of Catharine, daughter of Charles VI. King of France, and the consort of Henry V. She died on the 2d of January 1437, and was honourably interred in the chapel erected by Henry III. but when her grandson Henry VII. pulled down that to build his own chapel, her body was taken up, when the bones appeared firmly united, and thinly covered with flesh; but the coffin being decayed, was put into a wooden chest, and removed to the place where it is now seen. This is the account given by those who shew this venerable dust, the miserable remains of a lady of royal blood, and of distinguished beauty.

_The Chapel of St. Andrew_, which is next the northern cross, has in the center a magnificent monument erected to the memory of Sir Francis Norris, ancestor to the late Sir John Norris. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth he distinguished himself by his bravery in the Low Countries, and was created Lord Norris of Rycot. This monument has a fine representation of an encampment in relief, and is otherwise beautifully ornamented; but has no inscription.

Against the east wall is a table monument to the memory of Sir John Burgh, who was killed in 1594, in taking a large Spanish ship, laden with gold, silver and jewels of inestimable value.

In one corner is an ancient monument of Robert Kirton, that has several labels in black letters round his portrait, which rests upon eagles crowned. He died Oct. 3, 1466.

_St. Michael’s Chapel_ has only one monument worthy of notice, which is
that of Sarah, Duchess of Somerset; and mother to the last Duke of
that branch of the family. On the base sit two charity boys, one on
each side, lamenting the loss of their great benefactress, who is
represented resting upon her arm, under a canopy of state, and looking
earnestly upon a group of cherubims, issuing from the clouds above
her. Underneath is a Latin inscription, enumerating her many
charitable foundations, and informing us that this excellent Lady died
on the 5th of September 1692.

_St. John the Evangelist’s Chapel_, has in the center a curious monument
to Sir Francis Vere, a gentleman of the first reputation for learning
and bravery, who particularly distinguished himself at the battle of
Newport, in which he commanded in front under Prince Maurice, in the
service of the States, against the Spaniards. This great warrior was
30 years in the Dutch service, and in 20 of them commanded the
auxiliary troops of England. He died on the 28th of August 1608, in
the 54th year of his age. His monument is a table supported by four
knights kneeling, on which lie the several parts of a complete suit of
armour, and underneath the effigies of Sir Francis, lying, as if
undressed, in a loose gown, on a quilt of alabaster. On the base is a
short Latin inscription in gold letters, shewing to whom it belongs;
that he was nephew to the Earl of Oxford, and Governor of Portsmouth
and the Brille, and that his disconsolate widow consecrated this
monument to his memory.

Close to the wall is a monument of Sir George Hollis, nephew to Sir
Francis Vere, and a Major General under him. On the pedestal is
represented the siege of a town in relief, where the principal figure
is a General on horseback holding a battoon, and having one eye
blemished, perhaps alluding to the siege of Newport, in which Sir
George also gained great honour, and had a horse killed under him. On
each side of this pedestal sits a Pallas, lamenting the death of the
great warrior, who is represented above in the Roman habit, standing
erect upon a lofty altar, with a cherub supporting the plinth on which
he stands. Sir George died in January 1626. An ingenious author
speaking of this monument, says, that Sir George was the first erect
figure set up in the Abbey; “an attitude, says he, which I am far from
discommending, for ’tis my opinion, statues should always represent
life and action: ’tis peculiarly adapted to heroes, who ought never to
be supposed at rest, and should have their characters represented as
strong as possible: this before us is bold and manly, though not
chaste and elegant: ’tis finely elevated too, and the mourning
Pallases, at the base of it, are both well fancied and well applied.”

Near Sir Francis’s tomb is that of Aubery de Vere, the last Earl of
Oxford of that name, and Lieutenant-General of Queen Anne’s forces,
who died March 12, 1702.

In this chapel there are also some antique monuments; particularly on
the right hand, is that of John de Eastney, one of the Abbots, who was
a great benefactor to this church, and died on the 4th of May 1438. A
brazen statue of this Abbot in his mass habit, lies upon his tomb. It
is remarkable, that in breaking up a grave about thirty years ago, his
body was discovered in a coffin quilted with yellow sattin, having on
a gown of crimson silk, girded round him with a black girdle; on his
legs were white silk stockings, and over his face a clean napkin
doubled up, and laid corner wise. His body and legs are said to have
been plump and firm, but his face somewhat discoloured.

There is likewise here the monument of Sir John Harpedon, Knt. who
died in 1457. He lies in armour, resting his feet on a lion, and his
head on a greyhound.

_St. Erasmus’s, or Islip’s Chapel_, has but two monuments worthy of
notice; the first that of John Islip, Abbot of Westminster, the
founder of this chapel, which he dedicated to St. Erasmus. It is
adorned with much carving in devices, intaglios, and febuses, alluding
to the name of the founder, as a person slipping boughs off a tree; an
eye with the slip of the tree; and a youth sliding from a bough, with
_I slip_, in a label proceeding out of his mouth. In the middle is
Islip’s tomb which is a plain marble table, supported by four small
brass pillars; over it was anciently painted on the roof, a picture of
our Saviour on the cross. He died in January 1510.

The other is the tomb of Sir Christopher Hatton, son to Christopher
Hatton, Lord Chancellor of England. The principal figures are a knight
in armour, and a lady in deep mourning resting on the ascending sides
of a triangular pediment, parted in the middle by a trunkless helmet.
Over their heads is a neat piece of architecture, in the center of
which is a scroll with their arms, held up by naked boys, one of whom
holds an extinguished torch reversed over the Knight, to shew that Sir
Christopher died first; the other over the Lady holds his torch
upright and burning, to signify that she survived him. The inscription
informs us, that Sir Christopher died on the 10th of September 1619.

Over this chapel is a chauntry, in which are two large wainscot
presses, filled with the effigies of Princes, and others of high
quality, interred in the Abbey. These effigies, ’tis said, resembled
the deceased as near as possible, and were formerly exposed at the
funerals of our Princes and other great personages, in open chariots,
with their proper ensigns of royalty or honour. Those here deposited
are all maimed, some stripped, and others in tattered robes; but the
most ancient are the least injured, which seems as if the value of
their cloaths had occasioned this ravage; for the robes of Edward VI.
that were once of crimson velvet, but now appear like leather, are
left entire; while those of Queen Elizabeth and King James I. are
taken away, as is every thing of value from all the rest.

_St. John Baptist’s Chapel_, contains several monuments: one at the
entrance is to the memory of Mrs. Mary Kendall, the daughter of Thomas
Kendall, Esq; she died in her thirty-third year, and her epitaph
informs us, that “her many virtues rendered her every way worthy of
that close union and friendship, in which she lived with Lady
Catharine Jones; and in testimony of which, she desired that even
their ashes, after death, might not be divided; and therefore ordered
herself here to be interred, where she knew that excellent Lady
designed one day to rest, near the grave of her beloved and religious
mother, Elizabeth Countess of Kendall.”

Next to this is a monument erected to the memory of Col. Edward
Popham, and his Lady, whose statues in white marble stand under a
lofty canopy, resting their arms in a thoughtful posture upon a marble
altar, on which lie the gloves of an armed knight. This gentleman was
an active officer in Cromwell’s army, and his atchievements were here
inscribed on his tomb. Upon the restoration, the monument was ordered
to be demolished, and the inscription erased; but at the intercession
of some of his Lady’s relations, who had eminently served his Majesty,
the stone whereon the inscription was cut was only turned inwards, and
no other injury done to his monument.

In the midst of this chapel is a large table monument for Thomas
Cecil, Earl of Exeter, Baron Burleigh, Knight of the Garter, and Privy
Counsellor to King James I. whereon is placed his statue lying down,
with his Lady on his right side, and a vacant space on his left for
another. The Lady on his right side is his first wife the Lady Dorothy
Nevil, daughter to the Lord Latimer; and the vacant space was left for
his second wife, Frances Bridges, of the noble family of Chandois; but
as the right side was taken up, she gave express orders in her will,
not to place her effigy on his left, however, according to the
inscription, they are all buried together in one vault.

But the most magnificent monument in this chapel is against the east
wall, where stood the altar of St. John Baptist; this was erected to
the memory of Henry Carey, first cousin to Queen Elizabeth, who, on
being denied the honours of peerage, laid the disappointment so much
to heart, that he languished for a long time on a sick bed, at which
the Queen being moved, too late, created him a Baron, and ordered the
patent and robes to be laid before him, but without effect. He died on
the 23d of July 1596, aged seventy-two.

Here also is a monument to Thomas Carey, second son to the Earl of
Monmouth, who is said to have died of grief in 1648, at the age of
thirty-three, on account of the untimely fate of his royal master King
Charles I.

Here are likewise a few antique monuments, particularly one in which
the figure of a Bishop properly habited, lies under a Gothic canopy.
This is supposed to be erected for Thomas Rathal, Bishop of Durham,
who died in 1524.

And an ancient stone monument for William of Colchester, whose
effigies lie with the head supported by an angel, and the feet by a
lamb.

_St. Paul’s Chapel_, has on the left hand, a lofty monument erected to
the memory of Sir John Puckering, Knt. and Lord Chancellor in the
reign of Queen Elizabeth, in which office he died on the 20th of April
1596. His epitaph in Latin over his effigies, is thus translated:

The publick care and laws engag’d my breast,
To live was toilsome, but to die is rest;
Wealth, maces, guards, crowns, titles, things that fade,
The prey of Time and sable Death are made.

VIRTUE INSPIRES MEN.

His Wife this statue rears to her lov’d spouse,
The test of constancy and marriage vows.
_I trust I shall see the Lord in the Land of the Living._

Adjoining to this monument, is one, much decay’d, for Sir James
Fullerton and his Lady, whose effigies lie upon it, and on a table of
black marble is the following quaint inscription:

Here lie the Remains of Sir James Fullerton,
Knt. first Gentleman of the Bedchamber
to King Charles the First (Prince
and King) a generous Rewarder of all
Virtue, a severe Reprover of all Vice, a
profest Renouncer of all Vanity. He
was a firm Pillar to the Commonwealth,
a faithful Patron to the Catholic Church,
a fair Pattern to the British Court. He
lived to the Welfare of his Country, to
the Honour of his Prince, to the Glory
of his God. He died _fuller_ of Faith
than of Fear, _fuller_ of Resolution than
of Pain, _fuller_ of Honour than of Days.

There is a monument erected to the memory of Sir James Bromley,
Chancellor to Queen Elizabeth, who died on the 12th of April 1587.
This monument is of alabaster, with pillars of Lydian marble gilt, and
Sir James is represented lying in his Chancellor’s habit, with his
four sons and four daughters kneeling on the base.

In the same chapel is a plain monument of Sir Dudley Carlton, who for
his services to King James I. and King Charles I. was made Viscount
Dorchester, and Secretary of State. He died on the 15th of February
1631, and is represented on his tomb sitting in a half rais’d posture.

To the east of this monument is another of alabaster to the memory of
Frances the wife of Thomas Ratcliffe, Earl of Sussex, who
distinguished herself by her humanity and generosity, and died on the
15th of April 1589. She is represented in a recumbent posture, resting
on an embroidered cushion, dressed in robes, and with a coronet on her
head.

Next to this is the monument of Francis Lord Cottington of Hanworth,
who died on the 9th of June 1652, and of his Lady who died in 1633.
This monument is of black touchstone, and remarkably different from
every other in the Abbey, On the top is a circular frame of gilt
brass, enclosing the bust of the Lady, and beneath is his Lordship on
a table monument resting on his left arm, and over a satyr’s head is
the inscription in English mentioning his Lordship’s titles and
employments.

_St. Nicholas’s Chapel_ contains several remarkable monuments: near the
entrance is one of black marble, finely polished, to the memory of the
Lady Jane Clifford, youngest daughter to the Duke of Somerset, and
wife to Charles Lord Clifford and Dungarvan, who died Nov. 23, 1679.
This black monument is adorned with cherubims and a scroll of
alabaster, whereon is written a long inscription in English,
containing an account of the Lady’s descent and marriage.

By the door on the same side, is a monument of alabaster erected for
Lady Cecil, the daughter of Lord Cobham, who having married Sir Robert
Cecil, son to William Lord Burleigh, Treasurer of England, died in
child-bed in 1591. The Latin inscription is a dialogue between herself
and husband, expressing their mutual affection.

At some distance is a magnificent temple of various coloured marble,
erected to the memory of Anne Duchess of Somerset, wife to Edward Duke
of Somerset. She died on the 16th of April 1618, aged twenty-eight.
The inscription is in Latin and English, and contains a pompous detail
of the noble lineage of this great Lady, her alliances and issue.

In this chapel is likewise a very expensive monument, erected by the
great Lord Burleigh, to the memory of his wife Mildred, and their
daughter the Lady Anne, Countess of Oxford, representing a stately
temple built with porphyry, and other kinds of marble gilt. It is
divided into two compartments, one elevated over the other. In the
lower lies Lady Burleigh, in a recumbent posture, with her daughter
Lady Jane in her arms; and at her head and feet are her children and
grand-children kneeling. In the upper compartment is the figure of a
venerable old man, supposed to be the Lord Burleigh, on his knees, as
if at fervent prayer. The Lady Burleigh died April 4, 1589, aged
sixty-three, after being forty years married, and her daughter, the
Lady Oxford, June 5, 1588. On the tomb is a long Latin inscription,
explaining the figures, and displaying their respective virtues and
accomplishments.

The next monument I shall mention in this chapel, is that of the Lady
Winifrid, married first to Sir Richard Sackville, Knt. and afterwards
to John Paulet, Marquis of Winchester. On the base are the figures of
a Knight armed and kneeling, and facing him a Lady in mourning also on
her knees; behind whose back lies an infant on a baptismal font with
its head supported by a pillow.

In the middle of the chapel is a fine raised monument of polished
marble, to the memory of Sir George Villars and his Lady, whose son
was raised by King James I. to the dignity of Duke of Buckingham.

In this chapel are two beautiful pyramids; the largest erected to the
memory of Nicholas Bagnal, a child of two months old, overlaid by his
nurse; the other to the memory of Anna Sophia Harley, a child of a
year old, daughter to the Hon. Christopher Harley Embassador to the
French King. She died in the year 1600, and her father, as appears by
the inscription, caused her heart to be inclosed in a cup, and placed
upon the top of the pyramid.

There are also in this chapel, a monument to the memory of the Lady
Elizabeth Fanes, and one or two others, scarcely worth notice.

_The Chapel of St. Edmund_, has at the entrance a lofty monument with
Gothic spires erected to the memory of John of Eltham, second son to
King Edward III. and so called from Eltham in Kent. His statue in
armour is of white alabaster, the head incircled by a coronet. He died
in Scotland at nineteen years of age, unmarried, tho’ three different
matches had been proposed to him, the last of which, to Mary daughter
of Ferdinand King of Spain, he accepted, but lived not to consummate
it.

Next to this is a small table monument, on which lie the effigies of
William of Windsor, and Blanch of the Tower, the son and daughter of
Edward III. They took their surnames from the places of their birth,
and both died in their infancy. They are dressed in the habits of the
times, the young Prince in a short doublet, of the indecency of which
Chaucer’s parson complains, and the Princess in a horned head-dress,
which Stow says, was frightful.

On another tomb lies the statue of the Lady Frances, Duchess of
Suffolk, represented dressed in her robes. She was the daughter of the
famous Charles Brandon by Mary the French Queen, daughter to Henry
VII. and became Duchess of Suffolk by marrying Henry Grey, Marquis of
Dorset, who, upon her father’s decease, was created Duke of Suffolk.
On her tomb are two inscriptions, the first in Latin verse in praise
of her virtues, and the other in English, shewing her different
marriages.

The next is an elegant monument of white marble, erected by John Earl
of Clare, to the memory of his son Francis Hollis, a youth of great
bravery, who, after returning from making a campaign in Flanders, died
on the 12th of August 1622, aged eighteen. He is represented clad in
Grecian armour, sitting on a Greek altar. A good author mentioning
this statue, says, that it expresses more juvenile sweetness and
beauty, than any thing of the kind he ever saw, and that if this
figure has any fault in character or design, it is being placed in a
languid sedentary posture, tho’ cloathed in armour, and described as a
hero in his bloom; a more spirited attitude, he observes, would have
been more suitable to the person represented, would have given the
statuary greater latitude to exert his genius, and afforded more
satisfaction to the spectator. The epitaph on this is as follows:

What so thou hast of nature or of arts,
Youth, beauty, strength, or what excelling parts
Of mind and body, letters, arms, and worth,
His eighteen years, beyond his years brought forth;
Then stand, and read thyself within this glass,
How soon these perish, and thy self may pass;
Man’s life is measur’d by the work, not days,
No aged sloth, but active youth hath praise.

On an altar, in the same taste, but differently ornamented, sits the
statue of the Lady Elizabeth Russel, the daughter of Lord Russel. This
statue is of white alabaster, and the Lady is represented in a
sleeping posture. Your guides say, that she died with a prick of her
finger; but this story has no other foundation, than a misapprehension
of the statuary’s design; for having represented her asleep, and
pointing with her finger to a death’s head under her right foot, it
has been supposed, by the position of her finger pointing downwards,
that it was bleeding, and that this had closed her eyes in death;
though the artist’s design seems rather to allude to the composed
situation of her mind at the approach of death, which she considered
only as a profound sleep, from which she was again to wake to a joyful
resurrection, of which the motto under her feet, is an evident
illustration; _Dormit, non mortua est_; “She is not dead, but
sleepeth.” The Latin inscription on the scroll beneath, only tells
that this monument was erected to her memory by her afflicted sister
Anne. The device is an eagle, the emblem of eternity, resting on a
florilege of roses, &c.

Within the iron rails that inclose this last monument, is a
magnificent one to the memory of John Lord Russel, son and heir to
Francis Earl of Bedford, and of his young son Francis, by Elizabeth
the daughter of Sir Anthony Cook, Knt. This monument is of various
coloured marble and alabaster, and is adorned with gilding. Lord
Russel is represented lying in his robes, with his infant son at his
feet. His Lady, who erected this tomb, was esteemed the Sappho of the
age, and was not only an excellent poetess, but mistress of the
learned languages; and five epitaphs on this tomb are of her
composition, three of which are in Latin, one in Greek, and the other
in English, which last is here transcribed as a specimen of the rest,
that are to the same purpose:

Right noble twice, by virtue, and by birth,
Of Heaven lov’d, and honour’d on the earth:
His country’s hope, his kindred’s chief delight,
My husband dear, more the world’s fair light,
Death hath me ’reft. But I from death will take
His memory, to whom this tomb I make.
John was his name (ah, was!) wretch, must I say;
Lord Russel once, now my tear-thirsty clay.

In this chapel is a monument partly enclosed, to the memory of Talbot
Earl of Shrewsbury and his Lady, who are represented lying on a black
marble table supported by an alabaster pedestal. This monument is
adorned with variegated marble finely carved. The inscription contains
his titles and character, which is a very noble one, and informs us
that he died on the 8th of February 1617, in the fifty-seventh year of
his age.

In this chapel are several other monuments, adorned in their ancient
manner, with statues lying flat on the backs; and also some other
monuments affixed to the walls.

_The Chapel of St. Benedict_, which is that next to the south cross,
has a monument erected to the memory of Lionel Cranfield Earl of
Middlesex, Lord High Treasurer of England in the reign of King James
I. This monument was erected by his relict the Lady Anne, and is of
black marble, on which are two statues in a recumbent posture,
representing his Lordship lying in his robes, with his Lady. It has a
long Latin inscription, representing his various employments and
honours, and that he finished his life in a retired leisure, and died
on the 6th of August 1645, aged seventy.

On the east side, where stood the altar of St. Benedict, is a monument
of various kinds of marble, in memory of Lady Frances Countess of
Hertford, who died on the 14th of May 1598, in the forty-fourth year
of her age. It is of various kinds of marble, and the Countess is in
the old taste represented in her robes, lying with her head resting on
an embroidered cushion, and her feet on the back of a lion.

On the south side of this chapel is a table monument of white marble
to the memory of George Sprat, the second son of Dr. Sprat, Bishop of
Rochester, an infant of a year old.

Near it is the monument of Dr. Gabriel Goodman, the first Dean of this
church, who founded an hospital, and instituted a school at Rathven in
Denbighshire, where he was born. He was a person of great piety, and
was the first who raised the learned Camden from obscurity. He is
represented kneeling, in his proper habit. He died in 1601.

_The Tombs in the open parts of the Abbey._

1. At the corner of the last mentioned chapel is a plain neat monument
to the memory of Mr. Dryden, adorned with no other ornaments than an
elegant bust of that great poet. It was erected by the late Duke of
Buckingham, who thought no inscription necessary to transmit the fame
of that great poet to posterity; we therefore only see these few
words, J. DRYDEN, born 1632, died May 1, 1700, and underneath, John
Sheffield Duke of Buckinghamshire erected this monument, 1720.