Chapter III

Cairo — Description of the inhabitants — Treatment of women — Adventure of an Arab boy — Encounter with a native lady — Courtship and marriage in the East — Taking home the bride.

Alexandria had enabled us to form a conception of what we should see at Cairo; but, in some respects, we found Cairo essentially different. What first struck me, was the variety of race and caste distinctly marked in the inhabitants, and the consequent diversity of costume, producing an effect highly picturesque. Three-fourths of the population are Arabs, and these are divided into two classes—rich and poor, or traders and working-men. The latter are fine, well-made fellows, and being generally about six feet high, with noble foreheads, and dark eyes, would present an imposing appearance, were it not marred by a bad expression of countenance. They have been denounced as excessively dirty, but I must confess, that, on a pretty close view, I saw nothing to create such an impression. Nor did I observe among them so many cases of blindness and ophthalmia as I had been led to expect—though these diseases certainly are more prevalent here than in Europe. In other points, however, I found the labouring class in a much better position—healthier and better fed, than the poor in our large towns; and I have seen more squalor and wretchedness in the back streets of Liverpool than among the very dregs of the people of Egypt.

The dress of the poorer sort of Arabs is generally a blouse of brown cloth, or blue calico, sometimes it consists solely of a piece of cloth thrown with something of a classic grace over the whole person; and a tarboosh, or Greek cap, which, wrapped round with a roll of white calico—a fashion much discouraged by the Pasha, as injurious to health—becomes a turban. Their wives wear a long robe, also of blue calico, a square of the same material thrown over the head; and a strip of white or black cotton, secured across the nose by a brass clasp, covering the whole face, except the eyes—the only attraction they have to display. None but the very poorest and—since the dreadful truth must be told!—the very plainest, have their faces uncovered in the streets; hence it is fair to presume that these are the ugliest of their sex. Indeed, though it may seem inexcusable to speak of the Arab women with so little gallantry, I believe that they might all show their faces without exciting the least sensation. Their complexions are very bad; and, when married, they are tattooed over the chin, and their eyes, though fine, are insufficient to light up features utterly vacant. They seem to be regarded with consideration by their husbands, and are treated with great politeness by the Arab donkey-boys, and others of the male sex, with whom they come in contact in the streets.

The next class are the shop-keepers and native merchants, who dress much better, wearing wide Turkish trousers, of white cotton or cloth, richly braided; a jacket of the same colour, covered with braid; satin waistcoat, and red pointed shoes. Their favourite colours are black, blue, and chocolate, though many adopt a mixture of all. In this class, besides the richer Arabs, must be included Greeks, Armenians, Copts, and Jews. The Jews are marked by a slight difference in their costume, having the trousers much longer, and wearing heavy turbans, made of muslin and gold thread. Some of their dresses are very handsome, and all are exceedingly expensive—the price of a common suit of cloth, including gaiters, which, in wet or dirty weather, entirely cover the stockings, being about eight pounds. Of course, it is easy to increase this to thirty or fifty pounds, and even the last-named sum does not include the magnificent turban and belt, and richly-ornamented sword. In this superb attire, the rich citizen presents himself in public, riding a donkey—a steed which may be thought very ill-adapted to such an equipment, though here it does not present the sorry appearance that might be supposed.

The wives of these _bourgeois_ are costly articles, and their apparel often amounts to a little fortune. A large, very full dress, slightly fastened at the waist, and commonly made of shot silk, ranging over such bright tints as red, yellow, orange, blue, and lilac, falls over wide silk trousers, fitting on yellow boots, like demi-Wellingtons, which are thrust into thick-soled clogs of the same colour. Over all this, from head to heel, comes a sort of capacious cloak, of black silk; and a rich lace veil completely covers the face and neck. Such a heap of clothes naturally forms itself into a bundle; and it is no exaggeration to say that one of these ladies, when in proper walking costume, takes the street to herself, filling up the passage from wall to wall.

The highest class of native inhabitants embraces the Beys and Pashas, or nobility. These personages dress something in the European manner, with frock coats buttoned up the front, decorated with a star or crescent of diamonds, which, by their degrees of splendour, denote the rank or office of the wearer. Their wives are never seen in public, and a glimpse of them can only be caught by great alertness, when they are taken out, with an ostentatious cracking of whips, in a large close carriage, emblazoned with gold or silver, and so jealously guarded and curtained that even the air can scarcely reach them.

The vehicle is drawn by four horses, driven at full speed, and preceded by a Nubian outrunner, whose long whip secures it a clear passage. The adroit observer may then distinguish, through the half-screened windows, certain piles of silk and muslin, and a few pairs of eyes; this is all that appears of the lights of the harem.

The Nubian outrunners exercise their vocation in a very merciless way; however, with equal surprise and pleasure, I saw one thwarted in his vindictive purposes, in a manner that I cannot but record. An Arab boy, with the mischievous propensities of his age, had scrambled up behind the carriage of Ali Bey, a son of Ibrahim Pasha’s, when proceeding through one of the streets of Cairo; but being perceived by the Nubian, sprang down again, and made off. This, however, did not satisfy the outrunner, who instantly dashed after him, his face distorted with rage, leaving no doubt that he intended to inflict a most severe chastisement. The poor little urchin ran for his life; at least one blow of the Nubian’s whip, wielded by such a muscular arm, must certainly have crippled him. So desperate were his efforts to escape, now darting up the street, and then wheeling round and round, that the chase became quite exciting, causing every one to stop and look on, though only one dared to interpose. Just as the boy was sinking from exhaustion, a Turkish lady drew him towards her, and threw her robe over him. Oriental chivalry forbade the Nubian to advance; after a few moments’ hesitation, he turned sullenly away, and the boy was set at liberty. Thus, the ministering gentleness of woman everywhere makes itself apparent, and her influence is felt and acknowledged.

Egyptian ladies of rank, as I have already remarked, are seldom seen in the street; but soon after the adventure here described, it was my good fortune to encounter another. I was alone in a narrow street, on my way to the Consulate, when I saw a heap of female attire coming towards me, taking up, as usual, the whole passage. My dismay may be conceived, as I looked around in vain for some recess, where I might instal my poor proportions till the pile had passed by. I was on the verge of despair, when the lady, possibly in endeavouring to squeeze herself into a smaller space, put her foot on her veil, which instantly brought it down, disclosing a face of the most perfect beauty, a brilliant complexion, and dazzling eyes, at this moment lit up by a smile. As she picked up her veil, I caught a glimpse, through her half-open domino, of a red silk dress, tied with a blue sash, white satin trowsers, and red boots. She was evidently of high rank, and if so, could only have got out alone in some clandestine manner.

The cruel seclusion in which the sex are kept by the Turks and Egyptians, commences with infancy, and is preserved till death. This makes an Eastern courtship and marriage as matter-of-fact an affair as can well be imagined. As women are never seen by any of the opposite sex but their husbands—not even by their cousins or brothers, except in the streets, when it would be a gross breach of decorum to address them—a gentleman who wishes for a spouse, having no opportunity of choosing for himself, is obliged to communicate the circumstance to his mother, and this worthy matron, who in all probability has previously well considered the subject, soon indicates one whom she considers suitable. The candidate for matrimony then requires a list of the lady’s good qualities and attractions, which, of course, are in every case of the most unexceptionable kind; and when he has made up his mind, he waits on the lady’s father, and makes his proposals. These are to pay down a certain sum, varying from £1000 to £20,000, not as a settlement on the wife, but as compensation to the father, wives being always purchased here. A part, however, of this money is laid by as a provision for the wife, in case of her being divorced; and, as the husband would then have to refund this, it serves to strengthen the bonds of matrimony in a surprising manner. All being arranged, the father, suitor, and friends repair—without the lady—to a mosque, where they celebrate the marriage, which is little more than a simple question and answer. The question is put to the father by the bridegroom, who asks, “Will you give me your daughter to be my slave?” The reply is equally to the point, “My daughter is your slave.”

Some days now elapse, when the bridegroom, accompanied by his friends, proceeds to the house of his father-in-law, and brings away the bride, who is placed, completely veiled, in a palanquin, which is covered by a canopy, borne by the bridesmaids, who are under the direction of the bridegroom’s mother. The palanquin is preceded by a grand procession, composed of the bridegroom and his friends, a company of soldiers, and two or three camels, carrying young children; and the whole are marshalled forward by a band of music. In this way they traverse the town, and at length reach the bridegroom’s residence, where the bride is conducted by him, with great ceremony, to the apartments prepared for her. He then offers her some magnificent presents, which she receives in silence; and his mother and the other matrons, who are standing round, politely recommend him to go and pray. On his return from the mosque, he repairs to the apartment where he left his bride, and finds her alone.

He has not seen her face, or heard her speak, and a thousand anticipations of her beauty flash across his mind. What if these should disappointed? if her charms should be only imaginary, and her loveliness an invention of his mother’s? With eager steps he approaches her, and throwing off her veil, for the first time beholds his bride!

As I was not present at this interesting moment, it cannot be expected that I should be able to state what the gentleman said. As a conscientious traveller, I feel myself obliged to have recourse to that extremely original phrase—the scene may be more easily imagined than described.