Chapter XLV: Appendix: D (1)

RUSSIAN GOODS VERSUS ENGLISH.

THE KARŪN RIVER ROUTE—THE BEST MEANS OF REACHING THE COMMERCIAL
CENTRES OF PERSIA—OPINIONS OF EXPERTS—WISHES OF MERCHANTS.

Colonel Bateman Champain, R.E., in a paper read before the Royal Geographical Society, January 15, 1883, after estimating the population of Persia at six millions, gives among the products of the country, “grains of all kinds, cotton, tobacco, silk, opium, fruits, dates, wool, hides, carpets, rugs, and an immense variety of the luxuries and necessaries of life. There is, on the other hand, a large demand for cloth, cotton fabrics, sugar, tea, coffee, and all the innumerable comforts called for by a moderately civilised community.” He then goes on to state, “that the great proportion of these articles are imported _from or through Russia_” and that “it is but too evident that Russian manufactures are steadily superseding British wares at Ispahan, and even in the Persian markets south of that centre.” Colonel Champain then proceeds to notice the various proposed means for reaching the commercial centres of Persia; and after pointing out their disadvantages, draws the attention of the Society to the proposed route _viâ_ the Karūn River.

General Sir F. Goldsmid, after corroborating the statements of Colonel Champain as to the roads, spoke of railways in the future through Persia, particularly a complete railway between England and India; said that “failing the project of the great Indian railway, which could not be carried out _for many years, nothing could be better_ than the proposed communication, partly by water and partly by road, _viâ_ Ahwaz to Ispahan and Teheran” (the Karūn River route).

Mr. G. S. Mackenzie, after some prefatory remarks, recounted how he started from Mohammera (to which place goods may be taken by _ocean_ steamers), on the 27th July, 1878, in the steamer _Karūn_ of 120 tons, built for Hadji Jabar Khan, Governor of Mohammera, at a cost of 6000_l._; in twenty-three hours Mr. Mackenzie arrived at Ahwaz, without the steamer either bumping or grounding, and he ascertained that at the lowest season the river is navigable. At Ahwaz the river is blocked by rapids for about 1100 _yards_ as the crow flies, but (a canal _or_) a tramway of some 1600 _yards_ would reach the open portion of the river; thence Captain Selby, in the Indian steamer _Assyria_, succeeded in ascending to within five miles of Shuster (and also he steamed up the Diz River to within one mile of Dizful). From Shuster to Ispahan is 266 miles, or twelve ordinary mule stages.

The time taken by _goods_ in reaching Ispahan from Mohammera _by river is_,

Days. hrs.
By steamer to Ahwaz 0 23
By transshipment by (_train_ or) mules 0 4
Thence to Shuster by river, say fifty miles 0 12
By caravan to Ispahan (allowing one day’s _detention_) 13 0
-------
14 15

The present route is from Bushire to Ispahan (while
from a week’s to a fortnight’s delay at Shiraz is
generally experienced in getting fresh mules) 23 0
-------
_Certain difference_ 8 9
=======
_Or probably (on account of delay at Shiraz)_ 18 0

The land journey (the chief of the Bakhtiaris being favourable, of which there is no doubt) resolves itself to a journey over an ordinary Persian mule track, no worse than the old one from Bushire to Shiraz, while _as it passes through a good grazing country, hire would be cheaper_.

After some remarks in praise of Russia from Col. C. E. Stewart, Mr. Russell Shaw, having a general experience of railways, and having actually surveyed a proposed line from Baghdad to the Persian frontier, disposed of the various costly and ideal schemes of railways for Persia; and suggested the feasibility of reaching Persia from India.

The President, after a few general remarks, in which he wished well to large schemes of railway extension through Persia, _in the far distant future_, “thought it had been CLEARLY DEMONSTRATED THAT IT WAS POSSIBLE, AT A VERY SMALL COST, TO GET A ROUTE INTO THAT PART OF PERSIA WHERE ALONE ENGLISHMEN COULD HOPE SUCCESSFULLY TO COMPETE WITH RUSSIANS.”

The President stated that, “It was clear that if she (Persia) would offer no obstacles, the route up the Karūn would very soon be made practicable; and he could not but think that if it were steadily pressed upon the Persian Government, the desired result would be obtained.”

He concluded with well-deserved compliments to Colonels Champain and Smith, and Mr. Mackenzie.

It is a question whether the valuable commercial interests of this country in Persia receive the attention they deserve. Why do we not try to imitate Russia in opening the marts of Persia? She has done so till the word “Russian” has come to mean “_anything foreign_”! Why do not we insist on the _Karūn River_ being thrown open to British enterprise? Russia is a civilising influence, a rough one, perhaps, but still a civilising influence: and she is civilising the Turkoman.

The export of opium alone in 1881 was 924,000 lbs., which at 16_s._ a lb.—an ordinary price—is 739,200_l._; and _were Persia thrown open to English enterprise_, this sum would have been sent there, not in specie, _but in Manchester manufactured goods, etc._

I have good authority for stating that England is the only country admitting the produce of Persia duty free; as opium, wool, cotton (and good cotton), carpets, grain, dates, galls, gums.

Persia gives nothing in the way of facilities in return, for Russian influence is too strong, and under that influence, or from her own tortuous policy, she keeps the southern route, _viâ_ the Karūn River, closed to English enterprise.

But the principal difficulty that the English merchant has to contend against, is the difficulty he has _as an Englishman_ to recover debts, and whether this be impotence or policy on the part of those in authority, the fact remains, and has necessitated the withdrawal of important English establishments from Ispahan and Shiraz. The tact or energy of Her Majesty’s representatives at Teheran and Bushire is not to be doubted; but Downing Street seems to order a “masterly inactivity” or “an expectant attitude.” At Teheran we have a Minister Plenipotentiary and a Vice Consul, with the usual staff of a Legation; at Tabriz and Bushire, Consuls-General: but at Kermanshah, Hamadan, Ispahan, Shiraz, Yezd, and Kerman, _all great commercial centres_, we have only _native_ agents; these men _exercise no influence_, and are held in contempt by natives and Europeans alike, _as powerless_. At times, however, the _native_ (or British) agent has real influence, mostly personal: as in the case of Mirza Hassan Ali Khan, C.I.E., our late agent at Shiraz. WE WANT _English Consuls_ to protect us and our trade, say the merchants, and then the opening of the Karūn River: without these Persia as a mart is closed to English enterprise, and becomes _the monopoly of Russia_.

GLOSSARY OF PERSIAN WORDS,

HAVING THE TRANSLITERATION OF THE ORIENTAL SCHOLAR JOHNSON AFFIXED IN PARENTHESES TO MOST WORDS. WHERE NO PARENTHESES OCCUR, THE SAME WAY OF WRITING THE WORD AS THAT SCHOLAR IS EMPLOYED.

ABBA, ABBAH (_abā_).—A long, sleeveless, square-cut cloak,
generally of camel-hair—much worn by priests.

AB-I-RŪKHNI (_ābi rukni_).—The Spring of Rukhni (Rooknabad,
Moore).

AB KHORI (_āb khūrī_).—A watering bit.

ACHŌN (_ākhūn_).—A schoolmaster.

AGHA, AGA (_āghā_).—A lord, a master.

AHŪ (_āhū_).—An antelope.

AID-I-NO RŪZ (_aidi naw roz_).—New Year’s Day.

ALANGŪ.—A bangle (of glass).

ALEPH, ALEF (_alaf_).—A grain, grass, or forage-seller.

ALHAMDULILLAH (_al hamdu li’llāh_).—Thank God. Praise to God.

ALKALŪK, ALKALŌOK (_alkhálik_).—An inner quilted tunic.

ALŪ BALŪ (_ālū bālū_).—A cherry.

ALŪ BOKHARA (_ālū Bokhara_).—A kind of small acid plum.

AMĀN, AMAUN (_amān_).—Mercy!

ANDERŪN (_andarūn_).—The harem. Women’s quarters.

ASP-I-NO-ZIN (_aspi naw zīn_).—A horse just fit for the saddle.

BADINJON (_bādinjān_).—The aubergine or brinjal.

BADRAGHA (_badraka_).—A riding out with a departing guest.

BAGGALI (_baghalī_).—Native glass bottles.

BAKKAL (_bakkāl_).—A general dealer.

BAMIAH.—The ladies’-finger (a vegetable).

BALA KHANA (_bālā khāna_).—An upper room, hence balcony.

BANDER (_banda_).—Literally, a slave. I (by courtesy used).

BAZAAR (_bāzār_).—A collection of shops (the road between which
is usually covered).

BAZAAR KABOB (_bāzār kabāb_).—Minced and seasoned meat toasted.

BĀZĀRCHA BULAND.—The lofty bazaar.

BAZŪ-BAND (_bāzū-band_).—An armlet (generally containing a
talisman).

BAZZAZ.—A shopkeeper.

BELLI (_balē_).—Yes.

BERO (_bi-ro_).—Go! (Imperative).

BERŪNI (_birūni_).—The outer (or men’s) apartments.

BEZUN (_bi-zan_).—Beat! (Imperative).

BHUTA (_bota_).—Camel-thorn, brushwood.

BISMILLAH (_bismi’llāh_).—In the name of God!

BORIO (_būrīy_).—A kind of coarse matting.

BRILLIĀN (_biryān_).—Minced and spiced meat sold cooked in the
bazaar.

BULBUL (pronounced _Bull Bull_).—A nightingale.

BŪRAK.—A small meat pie.

BUTCHA, BATCHA (_bacha_).—Child! (Mode of addressing servants,
equivalent to the Anglo-Indian, boy!)

CAFSH-DOOZ. _See_ KAFSH-DOOZ.

CAH (_See_ KAH).—Cut straw.

CAJAWEH. _See_ KAJAWEH.

CALAAT. _See_ KALAAT.

CALAM-I-RUMI. _See_ KALAM-I-RUMI.

CANAĀT. _See_ KANAAT.

CANJAR. _See_ KANJAR.

CARAVANSERAI. _See_ KARAVANSERAI.

CHADŪR (_chādar_).—An outer woman’s veil.

CHAI (_chā_).—Tea (used throughout Russia and the East).

CHARGĀT (_chargāt_).—A square headkerchief.

CHEHEL SITOON (_chihal-sitūn_).—“The Forty Columns.”

CHEKMEH-DOOZ (_Chakmah dūz_).—A boot-maker.

CHENAR (_chanār_).—A plane-tree.

CHERRAGH (_charāgh_).—A lamp (in form and principle that of the
early classic one).

CHICK (_chīgh_).—A fly blind.

CHILLAW (_chulāw_).—Plain boiled rice.

CHOCOLAH (_chaghāla_).—Green fruit when very small.

CHUPPAO (_chāpū_).—A raid on horseback.

CHUPPER (_chār pā_).—A mounted post (a quadruped), posting.

CHUPPERKHANA (_chār pā khāna_).—A posting-house.

COLAH. _See_ KOLAH.

COORJIN. _See_ KOORJĪN.

COORSHID. _See_ KŪRSHID.

COSSIB. _See_ KOSSIB.

DANAH (_dahanah_).—A curb-ring bit.

DAR (_dār_).—A gallows, the execution pole.

DELAK (_dallāk_).—A barber, a bath attendant.

DELLEH.—A kind of weasel (? _Mustela sarmatica_).

DEYEEREH (_dayyīrah_).—A tambourine.

DILGOOSHA (_dil-ku-shāy_).—“Heartsease,” name of a garden at
Shiraz.

DOLMA (_dūlmah_).—A kind of sweet or flavoured pudding of rice
or meat.

DOOGH (_dogh_).—Buttermilk, curds and water.

DOZD (_duzd_).—A thief.

DOZD GAH (_duzd-gāh_).—A place of thieves.

DUBBEH (_dabbah_).—A repented and repudiated bargain.

DYAH (_dāya_).—A wet nurse.

FAL (_fāl_).—A lot, an omen (_sortes_), pronounced fahl.

FARNOOSE (_fānūs_).—A cylindrical lantern.

FARRASH, FERASH (_farāsh_).—A carpet-spreader.

FARRASH (_ferash_)-BASHI.—Lit. chief carpet-spreader.

FARSAKH.—A distance of from three and a half to four miles, the
hour’s march of a loaded mule, the parasang of Xenophon.

FARSH.—A carpet of any kind.

FELLAK, FELLEK (_fallak_).—A pole having a noose attached
to hold the feet for the application of “the sticks” (or
bastinado).

FERAMOOSH-KHANA (_farāmush khana_).—The (lit.) house of
forgetfulness, a masonic lodge.

FIZINJAN (_fizinjān_).—A dish flavoured with condensed
pomegranate juice and pounded walnuts.

FURDER INSH’ALLAH (_fardā Insh’allāh_).—“Please God to-morrow.”

GELAS (_gelās_).—A white-heart cherry.

GELIM (_gilīm_).—A common kind of carpet.

GERMAK (_garmak_).—A small early melon.

GEZANJABINE (_gazangubīn_).—Manna, or nougat.

GHEVA (_gewa_).—A summer shoe described at p. 190.

GHOLAM (_ghulām_).—A mounted servant, lit. a slave, an
irregular cavalry-man.

GOJA (_gaujah_).—A small green plum.

GŌMPEZAH (_gōmbeza_).—A dome.

GOOR KHUR (_gor khar_).—The wild ass.

GŪL (_gul_).—A flower.

GŪL ANAR (_guli nār_).—Pomegranate flower.

GŪL-I-SOORKH (_guli surkh_).—The moss rose from which the attār
is made.

GŪMRŪK (_gumruk_).—A custom-house.

GŪMRŪKJI (_gumruk-chi_).—A custom-house officer, or farmer of
customs.

GUNGE (_ganj_).—A treasure.

GUNGIFEH (_ganjīfa_).—Playing cards.

HAKIM (_hakīm_).—A physician.

HAKIM-BASHI (_hakīm bashi_).—The chief physician.

HAMMAL (_hammāl_).—A porter.

HAMMAM (_hammām_).—A bath similar to the Turkish bath.

HARRH (_harr_).—Rabid.

HASSIN or HASSEEN (_hasīn_).—A pan.

HASSIR (_hasīr_).—A kind of fine matting.

HAUZ (_hawz_).—A tank generally of stone and raised above the
ground-level.

HENNA (_hinnā_).—A vegetable dye used on hair, hands, and feet.

HINDIWANA (_hinduwānah_).—A water-melon.

HISSAM U SULTANEH (_Husām us Sultana_).—The _Sharp Sword_ of
the State (a title that was given to the late uncle of the
Shah).

HOOJRAH (_hajrah_).—An office, or bureau.

HUC (_hak_).—A share, the dervishes’ cry.

HUKHM (_hukm_).—An order.

IMĀD-U-DOWLET (_Imad ud Dawla_).—A title, viz. the Pillar of
the State.

IMAM (_imām_).—A saint.

IRAN (_Īrān_).—Persia.

ISTIKHBAL (_istikbāl_).—A riding out to meet an arriving guest
or personage.

ISTIKHARA (_istiharat_).—Omens (taking), chances.

ITIZAD-U-SULTANEH (_Itizād us Saltanah_).—A title, viz. the
Support of the State.

JAI-SHEER (_jayshīr_).—Wild celery.

JEJIM (_jājim_).—A thin kind of travelling carpet.

JIKA (_jīgha_).—A jewel worn on the head by women. The royal
hat ornament of feathers and diamonds.

JŪL (_jall_).—A portion of horse-clothing.

JŪNIVER (_jānwār_).—A wild animal, an animal.

KABAB or KABOB (_kabāb_).—A roast or toasted meat.

KAFFIR (_kāfir_).—An infidel (a term of reproach).

KAFSH.—A shoe.

KAFSH-DOOZ (_kafsh-doz_).—A shoe- or slipper-maker.

KAFTEH-BAZI (_kaftār_).—Pigeon-flying.

KAH (_kāh_).—Cut straw.

KAH GIL (_kāh gil_).—Clay and straw mixed for plastering.

KAHTAM (_khātam_).—Inlaid work like Tonbridge ware.

KAJAWEH (_kajāwa_).—A covered horse pannier.

KALAAT (_khalat_).—A robe (or other token) of honour.

KALAM-DAN (_kalamdān_).—A pen-case.

KALAM-I-RUMI (_kallami-Rumi_).—Lit. Turkish cabbage.

KALI (_kālī_).—A carpet having a pile.

KALIAN, KALLIAN, CALIAN (_kalyūn_, _kalyān_).—A water-pipe or
hubble-bubble.

KALLEHPUZ (_kallapaz_).—Sheep’s head- and trotter-boiler.

KANAAT, KANAT, CANAĀT (_kanāt_).—An underground channel for
irrigating.

KANARA (_kanāra_).—A side carpet.

KANJAR (_khanjar_).—A curved dagger.

KARAVANSERAI (_karavān-serai_).—A public rest-house for
caravans; a khan.

KARBĪZA (_kharbuza_).—A melon.

KARKOOL (_kakūl_).—A long lock of hair by which Mahommed is
supposed to draw the believer up into paradise.

KASHANG.—A beau, lit. beautiful.

KAWAM.—A prefect.

KEEAL (_kayal_).—A cucumber.

KEESA, KEESEH (_kisa_).—A hair glove used in the bath.

KEISI (_kayzi_ ?).—Dried apricots.

KEMMERBUND (_kamar-band_).—A belt, or sash.

KENDIL (_kindīl_).—A votive offering of peculiar shape,
generally of copper or other metal.

KENNEH (? _kannah_).—A camel- or sheep-tick.

KETKHODA (_kat-khudā_).—The head-man of a parish or village.

KHAN (_Khān_).—A conferred title, which _descends to_ all
children—_now_ very common: in the second generation equal to
Esquire.

KHĀNUM (_khānam_).—A lady.

KHOK BER SER UM (_khāk bar sar-am_).—Ashes on my head.

KHOLAR (? _kolar_).—A kind of wine of Shiraz.

KHYAT (_khayyāt_).—A tailor.

KOHL.—Black antimony, eye paint.

KOLAH (_kulah_).—A hat.

KOLAJAH (_kulījah_).—An outer coat for men or women.

KOOMPEZEH, KUMBIZA (_kumbīza_).—A species of cucumber.

KOORISHT (_khūrish_).—A savoury dish, a ragout.

KOORJIN, COORJIN (_khwur-chīn_).—Saddle-bags.

KOSH GUZERAN (_khwush guzārān_).—A free liver.

KOSSIB, COSSIB (_kasb_).—A craftsman.

KOTOL.—An effigy.

KOTUL (_kutal_).—A mountain pass, lit. a ladder.

KUMMER, KAMMER (_kammah_).—A straight hiltless sword or dirk,
with a broad blade.

KŪMRAH (_khumra_).—A wine (or other) jar.

KŪRBĀGHAH.—A frog.

KŪRSHID (_khūrshīd_).—The sun with rays of light.

KŪRSI (_kūrsī_).—A small platform used to cover a fire-pot, a
chair.

KUTTL-I-AUM (_katli ām_).—A general massacre.

LAHAF (_lihāf_).—A quilted coverlid.

LALLAH (_lālā_).—A male nurse.

LANJIN, LANJEEN.—An earthen pan.

LATIFEH (_latīfeh_ ?).—A courtezan, a Persian court card.

LODAH, LODEH (_lawda_).—A pannier for grapes.

LŪTI (_lūtī_).—A buffoon, a scamp, a thief.

MACHRORE (_makrūh_).—Lit. detestable, but yet not illicit;
things not to be eaten, but yet _not_ unclean; _i. e._ not an
unlawful thing, but one which had better be avoided.

MAIDĀN (_maydān_, _mīdān_).—The public square. A distance about
a furlong.

MAKHMŪN SHUD UM (_makhmūn shudam_).—I am deceived.

MALLAGH (?).—A tumbler pigeon, a summersault.

MAMBAR (_mimbar_).—A pulpit.

MANGAL (_munkul_).—A brazier.

MASH’ALLAH (_Māshā’llah_).—Lit. What God pleases! A phrase used
when praising, to avoid _evil eye_.

MAST (_māst_).—Curdled milk (Turkish, yaourt).

MAUND (_man_).—A Persian weight of nearly seven, or nearly
fourteen pounds.

MEANA (_miyāna_).—The middle. The middle tube of the water-pipe.

MEHDRESSEH (_medresseh_; Arabic, _madrasat_).—A college.

MEJLIS (_majlas_).—An assembly, a reception.

MIL, MEEL (_mayl_).—A column, a watch-tower.

MIR-ACHOR (_mīr-ākhur_).—Master of the horse, the.

MIR-SHIKAR (_mīr-shikār_).—Chief huntsman, the.

MIRZA (_mīrzā_).—One who can write, a clerk, a secretary, a
gentleman. As an affix equals “Prince.”

MOAALIM (_mwallīm_).—A schoolmaster.

MODAKEL (_mudākhil_).—_Illicit_ percentage, “cabbage.”

MOHULLA (_mahallah_).—A street, a parish.

MONAJEM (_munajjam_).—An astrologer.

MOR (_muhr_).—A seal, a piece, as at draughts, etc.

MŪLLA, MOOLLAH (_mūllā_).—A priest.

MŪNSHI, MOONSHEE (_munshī_).—A secretary, a clerk.

MURSHED (_murshid_).—A chief of dervishes, or of a sect or
guild.

MŪSCHIR (_mushīr al mulk_).[38]—The principal revenue officer
of Fars.

MŪSHTAHED (_Mujtahid_).—A teacher of law.

MUST (_mast_).—Lit. drunk. The state of excitement of the
camel, etc.

MUTLUB (_matlab_).—The pith, or meaning (of a letter).

NAIB (_naīb_).—A deputy, a post-house keeper.

NAKSH.—A kind of embroidery. _See_ p. 131.

NAMMAD (_namad_).—A felt (of various kinds).

NAMMAK (_namak_).—Beauty of a brunette, high colour.

NARGHIL (_nārjīl_).—A cocoa-nut, a kind of water-pipe.

NAWALLA (?).—Balls of flour given to horses and camels.

NAZIR (_nāzir_).—A steward.

NEH (_nay_).—A reed, a spear, a flute.

NEH-PEECH (_nay-pīch_).—The flexible tube of a water-pipe.

NEJIS (_najīs_).—Unclean.

NOBER (_nawba_).—First-fruits.

NOKER (_nawkar_).—A servant.

NUFFUS (_nafs_).—Breath.

OOTOO (_atw_).—An iron.

OOTOO KESH (_atw-kash_).—An ironer.

ORŪSSĒE (_ūrūsī_).—Lit. Russian, _i. e._ foreign. A Russian
(-shaped), _i. e._ foreign shoe, a _raisable_ window, a room
having a raisable window, etc.

PALENG (_palank_).—A panther.

PALLIKEE (_pālkī_?).—A mule pannier to _ride_ in.

PANE (_pa-in_).—Dried horse-dung.

PEILEWAN, PEHLIWAN (_pahlevān_).—A wrestler.

PEISH-KESH (_pīsh-kash_).—An offering to obtain favour (a
nominal present).

PEISH KHIDMUT (_pīsh khidmat_).—A head table-servant.

PEISH-WAZ (_pīsh-wāz_).—Lit. a going out to meet.

PERHĀN, PERAHĀN (_pīrahan_).—A shirt (for man, woman, or horse).

PIDER-SAG (_pidar sag_).—Son of a dog! (Lit. O dog-fathered
one!)

PILLAW, PILAW (_palāw_).—Rice boiled with butter.

PŪLAD (_pūlād_).—Art steel-work. Damascened iron.

RAMMAL (_rammāl_).—A conjuring mountebank and finder of
treasure, a diviner. _See_ p. 120.

RANGRAZ (_rang-rez_).—A dyer.

RASSIANAH (_rāziyānah_).—Anise plant, the.

REICH-I-BABA (_rīsh-i-Baba_).—A grape called “Old man’s beard.”

REIS-I-SEEM (_rais_).—Lit. master of the wire, _i. e._
Telegraph superintendent.

RESHT-I-BEHESHT (_Risht-i-Bihisht_ ?).—Glory or brightness of
heaven.

RIVEND (_rīwand_).—Rhubarb.

ROSEH KHANA (_rosah-khānah_).—A prayer-meeting, etc.

RUBANDA (_rū-band_).—A (face) veil.

RUSHWAH (_rishwat_).—Lit. manure, _i. e._ a bribe.

RYOT (_ra-īyat_).—A subject, a tiller of the earth, a villager.

SAG.—A dog, a cur, a term of abuse.

SAHIB (_sāhib_).—Lit. owner; Sir, Mr. (to an European).

SĀLE AB (_sayl ab_).—Rise of the waters.

SANDALLI (_sandalī_).—A chair.

SANG.—Lit. a stone, _i. e._ a weight.

SANGAK.—A kind of bread. _See_ p. 334.

SANTOOR, SANTŪR (_santīr_ or _santūr_).—Harmonicon.

SARHANG.—A colonel.

SEGAH (_sīgha_).—A concubine.

SER-ANDAZ (_sar-andāz_).—That (carpet) laid over the head (of
the room).

SER-KASHIK-JI-BASHI (_sar-kashīkchi bāshī_).—Chief of the guard.

SEROFF (_sarrāf_).—A banker, a money-changer.

SHAH (_Shāh_).—The King.

SHAHZADEH (_Shāh-zāda_).—Lit. born of a King, _i. e._ Prince
(or descendant of a Prince or King).

SHARGIRD-CHUPPER (_shāgird-chāpār_).—A posting guide.

SHATIR (_shātir_).—A running footman.

SHATRUNJ (_shatrang_).—Chess.

SHATUR.—A wrinkle.

SHEERA (_shīra_).—Condensed grape sugar.

SHEMR (_Shimar_).—The slayer of the martyr Houssein.

SHERBET (_sharbat_).—Syrup—generally fruit syrup—syrup and
water.

SHERBET-DAR (_sharbat-dār_).—A servant who makes ices, etc.

SHIKARI (_shikārī_).—A huntsman.

SHIREH-KHANA (? _shīra-khāna_).—A wine-factory.

SHITŪR (_shatūr_).—A wrinkle (of a carpet, etc.).

SHUB-KOLAH (_shab-kulah_).—A night-hat (or cap).

SHUKKER PARA (_shakar-pāra_).—A kind of very sweet apricot
(lit. a lump of sugar).

SHUL-BERF (_shal [?] bāf_).—Loosely woven.

SHULWAR (_shalwār_).—Trousers, breeches, petticoats.

SHUMA (_shumā_).—You.

SOORKI, SORKI (_sākī_).—(Classical) a cupbearer.

SUFRAH.—A sheet of stuff or leather spread on ground to dine
off.

SUNGAK. _See_ SANGAK.

SYUD, SEYD (_sayyid_).—A descendant of Mahommed.

TAGER (_tājir_).—A merchant.

TAKHJA (_tākchah_).—A recess in the wall a yard from the
ground, a niche.

TAKHT.—A throne, a bedstead, a sofa, a platform.

TAKHT-I-NADIR (_takhti-Nadir_).—Backgammon. (Nādir Shah’s
favourite game.)

TAKHT-I-PUL.—A kind of backgammon.

TAKHT-ROWAN (_takhti-ravanda_).—Lit. a _flowing_ or _running_
bed, _i. e._ a horse-litter.

TALÁR (_tālār_).—A lofty verandah, an arched room open at one
end.

TAMASHA (_tamāsha_).—A show, a sight, a spectacle.

TANNOOR, TANNŪR, TANDOOR (_tannūr_).—An oven.

TARR (_tār_).—A guitar-like banjo.

TATAR (Turkish).—A gholam, a post rider, a courier.

TAZZIA (_Ta-ziyah_).—The religious dramas or miracle plays.

TAZZIE (_tāzi_).—A greyhound.

TELEET (? _talīt_).—A mixture of grass and cut straw for horse
feed.

TELISM (_tilism_).—A talisman.

TERIAK (_tiryak_).—Opium.

TERIAKDAN (_tiryak-dan_).—An opium pill-box.

TERIAKMALI (_tiryak-māli_).—Rubbing (_i. e._ preparation of)
opium.

TERKESH-DOOZ (_tarkash-doz_).—A quiver-maker, a saddler.

TOMAN, TOMAUN (_tomān_).—Ten kerans (7_s._ 6_d._), a gold coin.

TOOLAH (_tūla_).—A sporting dog.

TOORBESAH, TOORBIZA (_turbuza_).—A radish.

TOOTOON (_tūtan_).—Tobacco for the chibouque.

TŪMBAK (_tumbak_).—A kind of drum.

TŪMBAKU (_tumbākū_).—Tobacco used for the kalian or water-pipe.

TŪMBŪN (_tumban_).—Petticoats (made as very loose drawers).

UMBAR (_ambār_).—A cellar or store-room, a go-down.

ŪTŪ or OOTOO (_atw_).—An iron (flat or otherwise).

UTU-KESH (_atw kash_).—An ironer.

VAKEEL-U-DOWLEH (_wakīl ud Dawlah_).—An agent of Government;
the empty title given to native newswriters, who are _supposed_
to act as English Consuls, and whose offices are _sinecures_.

YABŪ (_yābū_).—A pony, a common horse, a horse.

YAHŪ (?).—A kind of common house pigeon.

YAKHJAL (_Yakh-chāl_).—An ice-store; a pond (and wall) for
making ice.

YAOURT (Turkish).—Curdled milk, (Persian) “mast.”

YASHMAK (Turkish).—A kind of veil, or face covering.

YAWASH (Turkish).—Gently, slowly.

YESSAOUL (_yasāwal_).—A mounted mace-bearer.

ZALĀBI or ZALĀBIEH (_zalībiyā_).—A sweet cake or fritter eaten
in Ramazan at night.

ZAMBŪREK (_zambūrak_).—A tiny cannon carried on and fired from
a camel’s back (from Zambūr, a wasp).

ZANGAL (_zangāl_).—A legging.

ZENDA-RŪD, ZENDARŪD (_Zanda-Rud_).—The river at Ispahan.

ZIL-ES-SULTAN (_Zill us Sultan_) (title).—Shadow of the King.

ZOBAN-I-GUNGHISHK (_zabāni gunjishk_).—Lit. sparrow’s tongue, a
kind of willow.

ZŪLF (_zulf_).—A long love-lock, a curl.

FOOTNOTES

[1] See Appendix D, page 417.

[2] Turcomanchai was the place where the treaty between Persia and Russia was signed, February 22, 1828. Erivan and Nakchewan were ceded to Russia, and two millions agreed to be paid to her.

[3] The form of these was very various, though the principle of action was always the same: the smoke was conducted to the bottom of a pint or more of water and then sucked up in bubbles through it, a gurgling noise being produced. Some used the long “snake” or nehpeech, a spiral of copper wire covered with coloured leather, and forming a flexible air-tight tube some four yards long; this was the more old-fashioned way, and required good lungs. A servant held the pipe itself at the side of the master’s chair. Others affected the wooden stem with the pipe; this as a rule is held by the smoker himself, and no great effort is required in smoking, as the tube is only eighteen inches long and air-tight, which the “nehpeech” or “snake” seldom is, save when quite new.

The portion between the pipe-head and the water-holder is as a rule always the same: a wooden tube some fourteen inches or more long, with numerous indentations, turned in a lathe, and coming to a point, so that any pipe-head will fit it; from the end of this an inner tube goes to within an inch of the bottom of the water. Sometimes this tube is made of ebony, at other times covered with silver, and rarely with gold. In its side at the bottom is the hole for the snake-like tube, or the stick.

The water-reservoir is usually of glass, either plain crystal, or cut Bohemian; the shape of these glasses is that of a wide-mouthed, long-necked decanter, and the neck serves as the place by which the whole contrivance is held. In summer a porous clay bottle is generally used as cooler by all classes, rich or poor.

Another kind of reservoir called a narghil (narghil, a cocoa-nut) is made, having its shape like a cocoa-nut, with a spike or small knob at the sharp end; this rests on the ground, and is meant for travelling. It is made of brass, silver, or gold, and often in the two latter cases enamelled; the “meāna,” or middle tube, to this kind of pipe is often two and a half feet long, and the stem two.

Yet another form of kalian exists for travelling, and that is a copy of the glass reservoir, of a rather squat shape, in buffalo or rhinoceros hide; this is often, indeed usually, covered with enamelled plates of gold and silver, often encrusted with gems, and is only in use among the very rich.

As the great personages of Persia are constantly travelling, these more elaborate forms of pipe are frequent; and, as a man’s pipe often gives an idea of his social position, money is very freely lavished on them. The mouth-piece is simply either wooden, or else the end is shod with silver. The head consists of, among the poor, a clay reservoir for the tobacco. These cost a farthing. But most Persians, though only of the lower middle class, manage to have a silver pipe-head; this consists of three pieces, the handle or chōb (wood), a carved and turned piece of wood pierced with a conical hole which fits the meāna (or stem)—this may be represented by the lower two-thirds of an old-fashioned wine-glass, with a small foot; the fire-holder, which is of gold, silver, or stone, is fitted to this, and represents the upper third of the wine-glass; and on this all the ingenuity of the Persians is lavished in the matter of ornament. From its under edge hang four or six little silver or gold chains four inches long, terminated by flattened balls.

Lastly, the wind-guard, which prevents the fire from falling or being blown up into an excessive state of incandescence, is usually made of silver, and is an inverted cone of the same size as the fire-holder, fitted to it with accuracy, and provided with two holes to give the requisite amount of draught; at the side two pairs of chains depend from the upper edge of this, and are made to reach as far as do the lower set.

The fire-holder is lined with a mixture of clay and plaster of Paris, on which is placed the tobacco, freshly moistened and rubbed into coarse fragments (though connoisseurs prefer a more elaborate preparation)—about three-quarters of an ounce is required; it is flattened and smoothed, the surplus water being squeezed away. Upon it are placed morsels of live charcoal, which are blown into a fierce flame, and the excess of water in the reservoir or bottle being driven out by blowing from the bottle, which is always nearly filled. A few draws are taken by the pipe-boy to see that all goes well, and to get rid of the taste of fresh charcoal, and get the tobacco well alight, and it is then handed to the smoker as under weigh.

On the fire-holder, however—perhaps because it is opposite the eye and so most conspicuous—are seen the highest efforts of Persian art. It is, whenever it can be afforded, of purest gold, though often thin; some rare exceptions are unornamented; more ordinarily it is chased or covered with high _repoussé_ work, or elaborately engraved. Or it may be so encrusted with turquoises till little, if any, of the original metal shows; or it may be ornamented with elaborate enamels of birds and flowers, or of fruit; and a favourite pattern is vine-leaves of transparent enamel let into the deeply-cut metal, and the bunches of grapes of varied colours.

More often three or four ovals, some two inches long, are filled by portraits of a girl or boy—of course fancy ones—and the spaces between them filled with flowers and birds. These enamels are very beautiful, very costly, and very brittle; ten pounds being a common price paid to an enameller to decorate a gold head, while as much as one hundred tomans, or forty pounds, are given by great and rich amateurs.

Of the kalians, the heads and reservoirs of which are thickly encrusted with gems, I do not speak at present; I had few opportunities at that time of seeing such, and, as a rule, they are only possessed by the Shah, his sons and uncles. I trust the reader will bear with this long but needful detail as to pipes.

[4] As a rule, in Persia every one is up _by six_ A.M.

[5] Those who feel curious on the subject of modern Persian medicine, I must refer to my article on the subject in the _British Medical Journal_.

[6] The English Legation or Embassy is always called “The Mission” in Persia, by the members of it, and the English in the country.

[7] Futteh-Ali Shah had _over seventy sons and daughters_, and a prince’s _son_ in Persia is a _prince_.

[8] As some confusion may be experienced in the matter of money terms, I may append the following table of coins:—

_s._ _d._
(Copper) 2 pūls = 1 shahi (or shaie) or English 0 0½
” 10 shahis = 1 banabat or half-keran (silver) ” 0 5
20 shahis = 1 keran (silver) ” 0 10
10 kerans = 1 toman (tomaun), gold ” 7 6

Were the keran really tenpence, of course the tomaun would be 8_s._ 4_d._, but its value is really only ninepence at present exchange (1883). Of these coins the pūls and shahis are copper, the kerans and half-kerans or banabats silver, and the tomauns gold; though for the past fifteen years, until just recently, the tomauns (in gold) had nearly disappeared, and were merely nominal, or old coins hoarded for the sake of the purity of their gold. Prices are given indiscriminately in tomauns or kerans; the price in kerans as five hundred kerans being mostly spoken of and always _written as kerans_ and not fifty tomauns. Till lately the tomaun has been _only a name_. The merchant-class, too, use the dinar, an imaginary coin (not now minted at least), as a convenient fraction for calculation.

I _on arrival_ took my servants’ accounts in tomauns and kerans, _afterwards_ in kerans and shaies, _and at last in_ kerans and pūls; while an English merchant friend actually wrote his house accounts in dinars, and said it _awed_ his servants! one thousand dinars make a keran, so one dinar is the 1/1000 of 9_d._

_There are no bank-notes_: and in _The Times_ telegraphic news, under the head of Persia, Friday, February 24th, 1883, is a summary of a truly Persian edict. By it the Shah informs his subjects that, “they are foolish to take _dirty pieces of paper_ for gold and silver, and that in future all _Russian Rouble notes will be confiscated_!” Then follows a really useful prohibition forbidding aniline dyes, and ordering such, when imported and discovered, to be destroyed; _these dyes_, which are not fast, have been lately much used by ignorant carpet-weavers in Persia.

[9] Hakim, a doctor or physician.

[10] This system accounts partly for the apparently very low wages paid to the Persian servant, which are (I give those paid latterly—1881—by myself; in the case of head-servants it is sometimes, but very seldom, more, as the pay is of course nothing to the modakel):—

A month. £ _s._ _d._
A nazir or steward 50 kerans, or 2 0 0
A good cook 50 ” 2 0 0
A good peishkhidmut (personal
servant, waits at table, and
valets one, and is expected
to dress well) 40 to 50 kerans,
or 30s. to 2 0 0
A farrash, i. e. sweeper or
message runner 25 kerans, or 1 0 0
A sherbet-dar, plate-cleaner,
maker of coffee, ices, etc. 25 ” 1 0 0
A second farrash 20 ” 0 16 0
A third farrash 15 ” 0 12 0
A cook’s disciple, or
scullery man 10 ” 0 7 6
A washerman, or woman who can
wash and iron thoroughly 35 ” 1 6 0
A woman-servant or nurse 25 ” 1 0 0
A head-groom 30 ” 1 5 0
An under-groom 20 ” 0 16 0

[11] ? Mustela Sarmatica.

[12] More correctly munshi.

[13] Or nummud.

[14] Here are four tombs, cut in the face of the solid rock, those of Darius, Xerxes I., Artaxerxes I., and Darius II. A detailed description is to be found in Usher’s book. (See illustration.)

[15] Russian subjects are well protected in Persia, and no injury or insult to them is allowed to pass by their embassy.

[16] The present comparative dearness of provisions, such as bread, milk, eggs, etc., is compensated for by a corresponding cheapness in the price of sugar, candles, etc., which formerly were more expensive. I append a list of prices in Ispahan in 1882:—

Kerans. _s._ _d._
Rice (per maund, 14 lbs.) 2 1 6
Mutton ” ” 2 1 6
Beef ” ” 1½ 1 1½
Fowls (each) ¾ to 1 7_d._, 8_d._ 9
and 0
Small chickens (each) ⅓ 0 3
Pigeons ” 0 2
Partridges ” ½ 0 4½
Eggs (40 to 60) 1 0 9
Butter (14 lbs.) 5 3 9
Clarified butter or ghee for cooking
(14 lbs.) 5 to 7 4_s._ to 5 0
Coffee, Mocha (per lb.) 1 9_d._ to 0 10
Tobacco (14 lbs.) 4 to 12 3_s._ to 10 0
Potatoes ” ½ to 2 4½_d._ to 1 6
Wood for firing (280 lbs.) 2½ 1 9
” broken, in small quantities (280 lbs.) 5 3 9
Loaf-sugar, English (per lb.) ¾ to 1 6_d._ to 0 9
Charcoal, sifted (14 lbs.) ½ to 1 4½_d._ to 0 9
” unsifted ” ¼ to ½ 2_d._ to 0 4½
Grapes ” 7/20 to 15/20 3_d._ to 0 7
Dip candles ” 4 3 0
Commonest oil for servants (14 lbs.) 1½ 1 1½
Bread (14 lbs.) 1 to 1½ 9_d._ to 1 1

The cost of horse-keep, _including_ grooms’ wages, shoeing, etc., is from 9_d._ to 1_s._ a day; this is supposing several are kept.

[17] I use this word for want of a better.

[18] On March 30th I left Erzeroum at nine A.M., reached Hassan Kaleh, twenty-four miles, at three P.M.; started again at four P.M. (_all snow_), reached Balakoohi, where a storm compelled us to halt at seven P.M. Slept there.

_March 31st._—Started at five A.M. for Kharassan, twenty-five miles; arrived at half-past nine; made a detour of ten miles on account of water. Started at half-past eleven on _same horses_; stopped at a village twenty-four miles off, name unknown; horses dead beat; road—_water, mud, and thawing snow_—twenty-four miles.

_April 1st._—Started at five A.M.; arrived at Moollah Suleiman, eighteen miles (same sort of road), at ten A.M.; left at half-past eleven for Kadikeesa, twenty miles; arrived at five P.M.; went on through snow till nine P.M. to a village, twelve miles only; halted. Slept in a sheep-shed _full of tics_.

_April 2nd._—Started at six A.M.; arrived at three P.M. at Desardūn, thirty-six miles. Here I saw Mount Ararat. Road very bad, from melting snow. Arrived at Kizzil Deeza, twenty-four miles (a wretched hole), at eight P.M.

_April 3rd._—Five A.M. Road pretty fair over a long snow-pass, twenty miles to Abajik, in PERSIA. Arrived at ten A.M. Quite a pleasure to get among the Persians again, and to be able to make myself understood. Then an easy twenty miles to Keranee—half-past four P.M. Started at once; reached Zarabad, twenty-two miles over a good road with capital horses, at half-past eight P.M.

_April 4th._—Left at half-past six A.M. for Khoi, a long twenty-four miles; got in at eleven A.M. Khoi is a very large place, apparently prosperous. Good dinner of bazaar kabobs. Arrived at Turseh, twenty-four miles, ten P.M.; road good, but shocking horses, down a tremendous pass, then along the shores of Lake Ooroomeyeh—a kind of Dead Sea—it is very salt. Many bituminous fires lighted it up at night, huge sheets of flame suddenly appearing.

_April 5th._— Half-past two A.M., left Turseh for a place the name of which has escaped me, arriving at half-past ten A.M. Arrived at Sufian at half-past twelve noon. Left at once, reaching Tabriz, twenty-four miles off, in four hours. Erzeroum to Tabriz, six days and seven hours, three hundred and thirty-five miles.

I stopped with Colonel J⸺, V.C., our Consul-General, April 6th, 7th, and 8th. At three P.M. of April 9th I started for Teheran.

STAGES BETWEEN TABRIZ AND TEHERAN.

Miles.
Saoudabad 20
Hadji Aga 20
Darathiar 16
---
56

Slept.

_April 10th._—Turcomanchai 24
Meana 16
Jemalabad 12
Tercham 16
Aga Mezar 12
Nikibeg 20
---
100

Slept four hours.

_April 11th._—Zinjan 26
(met one of our staff;
breakfasted, and lost
three hours)
Sultaneah 24
Khya 30
---
80

Slept four hours.

_April 12th._—Khirve 18
Zeedaen 24
Kasvin 16
Abdulabad 18
---
76

Slept four hours.

_April 13th._—Sufferkhoja 24
Shunkerabad 22
Meanjūb 20
Teheran 20
---
86

[19] This is the one standard weight of Persia, the other being the miscal or sixth part of our ounce. This, for convenience, is supposed to consist of twenty nokods—the nokod being a grain similar to our pea in appearance. The nokod is subdivided into three gundums or grains (of wheat); these again into four kērāts (or carats)—these latter, however, are only used in weighing gems. The Tabriz maund (or batman) and the miscal and its subdivisions are in use throughout Persia in mercantile affairs.

Further north than Ispahan the sere and the gerewankeh—the latter about a pound, and borrowed from the Russians—are in use. Other local weights exist, only known in special places. As a rule, each village has its special weight (literally stone, “sang”), and their maunds get lighter and lighter as one gets away from the large cities.

[20] The cost had been—

Kerans.
Thirty jars, at five kerans 150
Twenty loads of grapes 750
Carriage of same 60
Cost of labour, etc. 100
----
1060
Per contra.
Kerans.
Paid to me by Jews for refuse, for arrack-making 50
Resale of jars 140
---
190

Total cost, 870 kerans, or about 5½d. per bottle.

[21] _Must_ is a Persian word signifying “drunk;” it also means the state of excitement of male camels at certain times.

[22] Strangled, after he had refused a cup of poisoned coffee, in 1882, by order of the Zil-es-Sultan, while an honoured guest in his (the Zil-es-Sultan’s) house.

[23] Topi, a sun-helmet.

[24] The full title is Kawam-ul-Molk.

[25] The full title is Muschir-ul-Molk.

[26] Would it have been necessary to have _explained_ to Bishop Bonner the use of the thumbscrews _after_ his cruelty to the Reformers?

[27] Aug. 2nd, 1887. Dr. Odling writes me that this well is 849 feet deep. I fancy that there is some error in this, as I put down the six hundred yards. Possibly there may be a second shaft.

[28] The murdered sons of Ali, considered by the Persians, and all Shiah Mahommedans, as the rightful successors of the prophet, consequently sainted martyrs.

[29] Bhang, an intoxicating drug used by dervishes.

[30] Azraël, the angel of death.

[31] Not of coral, as in the Levant.

[32] Origin of our word “hummums.”

[33] Now Sir Oliver St. John.

[34] See Ussher’s ‘London to Persepolis,’ p. 564.

[35] Muleteer.

[36] See Appendix D, page 417.

[37] Shah Abbas the Great built caravanserais of great size and solidity all over Persia, hence a good and large caravanserai, even though not built by him, is called a “Shah Abbas caravanserai.”

[38] Mushir al Mulk, counsellor of the province.

INDEX.

Abadeh, 261, 356
carvings, 332

Abbah, the, 319

Abbas Kūli Khan, 215
the Great, 161

Abdul, 285

Abdul Hamid, 276, 353

Abdullah’s types, 9

Abdul Mahomed, 64

Ab-i-Rūkhni, 218

Ab-i-Zungi, 218

Ableh, 62

Abū Seif Mirza, 59, 84
Senna, 82

Accident to Mr. H⸺, 128

Accidents in driving, 374

Actors, Persian, 282

Aden, 343

Administration of justice, 146

Adulteration of opium, 180

Afghan poosseens, 319
(?) tiles, 198

Aflatoon, 82

Agha Hassan, 109

Ahs an Ahs, 96

Ahū, 167

Aid-i-No Ruz, 48, 51

Akbar Khan, 402

Alangū, 323

Alarm of robbers, 130

Alexander the Great, 378
coins of, 76

Algiers, 342

Ali Akbar, 282
death of, 283

Ali Oh! 43

Alison, His Excellency Mr., 48, 201

Alla Sung, 392

Alligators, 344

American missionaries, 144

Aminabad, 262

Ancient Armenian language, 140
buildings, disappearance of, 364
engraved ruby, 37
Julfa, 161
mud-houses, 137

Anderūn, 92

Anecdote of a dervish, 47
re smoking, 32

Aniline dyes, 149
dyes, prohibition of, 63

Animals, treatment of, 316

Antelope hunt, 86

Antelopes, 56

Apostate monk, 139

Appetites, large, 336

Apricots, 168

April, the 1st of, 330

Arab dress, 110
horse, my, 61
horses, 106
pipe, 33

Arachnoort, the, 138, 141, 159

Ararat, hailstones at, 391

Araxes river, 19, 313

‘Arcot,’ voyage in the, 341

“Armchair,” 136

Armenian Alsatia, 142
artificers, 162
baptism, 141
church, 160
converts, 164
cook, 363
fasts, 144
grateful, 93
graves, 162
jewellers, 162
Kaweh Khana, 163
loafers, 143
marriage of, 141
priest, 132
Protestant teacher, 140
schools, 144
scriptures, 140
theatre, 9
tribute, 376
village, 131
wine-sellers, 142
women, dress of, 132
women, industry of the, 360

Armenians, 72, 110
anecdote of, 73
apostatising, 111
bread, 336
carpenters, good, 123
character of, 316
disguised as Europeans, 72
education of, 144
former oppression of, 144
idleness of the, 359
improved position of, 144
of Hamadan, 72, 74
position of in Persia, 74
sanctity of, 73
successful, 143
taken to Julfa, 161
uncleanliness of, 316

Arms, 322

Arnold, Mr. Arthur, 273

Arrack, 141, 159, 360

Art of avoiding falls, 54

Arts, lost, 162

Asparagus, wild, 168

Ass, wild, the, 308

Assadabad Pass, 101

Astrachan, 405

As we turn in another turns out, 110

Attempts to proselytise among the Persians, 144

Audience at Tazzia, 281

Austrian officers, 371

Avadavats, 347

Avicenna, 82

Ayrton, Mr., 5

B⸺, Mr., 27, 213

B⸺, Rev. R., 340

Baab, cursing, 155

Baabi artificers, 164
conspiracy, 154
death of a, 154
revolt, 272

Baabiism, tenets of, 154, 339

Baabis, 144, 339
charges against, 154
visit to, 201

Baab, 153

Bad drainage, 153

Badraghah, 56

Bad water, 153, 241

Baghalli, 236

Bagh-i-No, 218

Bagh-i-Takht, 220, 292

Baker, an ungrateful, 183

Bakhtiaris, 262

Bakū, 403

Bamiah, 170

Bankers, 192

Bank-notes, edict as to, 63

Baptism, Armenian, 141

Barber’s Bridge, the, 389

Bargain for mules, a, 381

Bargains, 187

Barley, 102

Bastinado, the, 146
at Kūmishah, 254
degrees of, 148

Bath carpets, 152
at Constantinople, 212
the, 334

Bazaar, at Teheran, 372
breakfasts, 200
practice, 182

Bazaarcha Baland, 200

Bazū-band, 290, 323

Bear and dog fight, 227

Beards, 321

Beaters, 177

Bēbē Sakineh Sultan Khanūm, 215

Bedding for travelling, 55

Bedding horses, 101

Beef, 142, 299

Beetles, road, 215

Bell tower, Julfa, 139

Bells, substitute for, 139

Belly-dance, the, 115

Belt, the, 320

Belūchistan, 345

Berlin, 407

Besitūn, 109

Bewitched, 65

Bishop Moses, 138
of Julfa, the, 159
Thaddeus’s tomb, 158

Bishop’s, the, pictures, 159

Bits, native, 329

Black-wood furniture, 345

Black flags, 283
Sea, 9

Blandford, Mr. W., 321

Blowing from a mortar, 203
from guns, 202

Boat-building, 247

Boat journey, 210

Boiled to death, 272

Bombassi, 326

Bonaat, 77

Bookbinding, 288

Boorio, 197

Boots, 321

Borasjūn, 348

Boulevard at Teheran, 371

Bowin, 392

Boy dancers, 246
singers, 281

Boys, a mob of, 393

Bread, varieties of, 335

Breasts as ornaments, 132

Bribery, 189

Bribing postmaster, 13

Bricking up alive, 269

Brickwork, fine, 222

Bridge of tombstones, 163

Brigands, 263

Broom plant, 309

Bruce, Mrs., 164
Rev. Dr., 164

Bulbul, 114

Bull-terriers of Zil-es-Sultan, 366

Bunder Abbas, 345

Burial of a Christian child, 140

Burke, Captain, 344

Burmese Embassy, 376

Burning alive, 204

Bushire, 345

“_Butcha_,” 326

Butchers, 299

Buttermilk, 171

Buy a horse, 206
grapes for wine-making, 229

Buying horses, 58

C⸺, Major, 3

Cah (Kah), 174

Calico printers, 200
rinsers, 193

Call to the bath, 72

Camel, bite of the, 243
fight, 242
tics, 392

Camels, mode of procuring fighting, 242

Campanile, the, Julfa, 157

Camp out, 348

Captain Burke, 344
Hansard, 343
S⸺, 179
T⸺, R.E., 278

Carapet, Mr., 357

Caravanserai Gulshan, 200
Mokhlis, 182

Carboys, 236

Card-playing, 96

Carpets, Persian, 149;
1883, 150
all wool, 151
Bath, 152
colours of, 150
fast colours, 149
faults in, 150
“Gelīm,” 152
increase in price of, 153
“Jejīm,” 152
Meshed, 149
mode of laying, 152
“Nammad,” 152
of great value, 151
of Mūrghāb, 151
old, 149
patterns of, 150
quality of, 150
value, 151
why they last, 150

Carvings, Abadeh, 332

Cashmere shawls, 274

Caspian steamer, 211

Cathedral of Julfa, 100

Cats, long-haired, 305
ordinary, 305

Causeways, 198

Cavalry, irregular, 266

Cells of students, 197

Cemetery, Armenian, 162

Chaff beds, 20, 25

Chah Ali Bunder, 275

Chambers, Captain, 127, 176

Character of Armenians, 316
Persians, 314

Char Bagh, 135, 196

Chardūr, 325

Chargāt, the, 322

Charlesiah, 132

Charms, 291

Cheap freehold, a, 206

Cheapness of ice, 240

Cheese, tale of the phantom, 172

Chelinjeh Khan, 223

Chess, 97

Chibouque, 32

Children, dress of, 325

Cholar wine, 229
grape, 232

Cholera, 224

Chuppering, rules of, 259

Chupper khana, interior, 25
a, 386
whip, 22

Church Missionary Establishment, 165

Church Missionary Schools, 144, 163

Church Missionary Society, educational work of, 144

Church of England, 166
Jesuits, 143

Civil suits, 189

Claim to sanctity of Armenians, 73

Classical Persian, 278

Clay biscuits, 334

Cleanliness of Persians, 316

Clemency, royal, 317

Climate, variable, 339

Clothes of Persians, 318

Cocculus indicus, 129

Coffee à la Turca, 6

Coinage, new, 371

Collars, difficulty of washing, 153

College at Ispahan, 196
Teheran, 338

Collins, Sergeant, 293
place of murder of, 351

Colonel Prideaux, 346

Colt, anecdote of a, 103
grey, 239

Comfort of travelling, 55

Common flowers, 172

Complexion of women, 324

Compliments, Persian, 28

Concubines, 326

Confiscation, 155

Constantinople, 5

Conversation with king’s son, 165

Cook, my, tries to take priest’s orders, 139

Cooks, 297

Cook-shops, 298

Coral reef, 342

Cossack regiments, 370

Cost of living, 186

Costume, Persian, 317
of women, 322

Court costume, 50

Courtiers, 199

Cream, mode of obtaining, 171

Credit, 188

Crickets, mole, 216

Crops, 173

Croquet lawn, 167

Crucifixions, 204

Cruelty to horses, 329
to a nun, 140
to Yari, 78

Cruelties to Mirza Naim, 272

Crying off, 188

Cucumber jam, 92

Cuisine, Persian, 296

Curdled milk, 171

Curio buying, 332

Curious accident, 128
ring, 376

Cursing Baab, 155

Curtain in Armenian church, 140

Custom-house, 267

Custom of Shiraz, 379
the Kūrūk, 370

Cut straw, 174

Cyrus, tomb of, 355

D⸺, Mr., 51

Damage to telegraph line, 113

Damascening, 189

Dar, the, 201, 282

Darius, treasure of, 78

Daroga, the, 371

Day in Ispahan, 200

Day of Judgment, picture of the, 161

Debauchee, a, 244

Decorated pond, 50

Decorations, church interior, 160

Dehbeed, 356
tax-man at, 133

Delleh, 69

Demarvend, 373

Dervish and puppets, tale of, 285
at tomb of Hafiz, 278

Dervishes, 42
at Tazzia, 281
garden, 46
hats, 44
horn, 46
mode of begging, 44
vices, 46
vows, 43

Desht-i-arjeen, 350

Diana, temple of, reputed, 107

Dig for treasure, we, 79

Dilgoosha, 220, 274

Dinner on road, 107
sent away, 245
with a Persian prince, 114

Discipline, 71

Disguise of robbers, 264

Dispensary, my, 200
over the prison, 182

Doctors, 33

Doctors, studies of, 338

Dog-cart, my, 248

Dog, loss of, 129

Dogs, varieties of, 306

Doherty, Mr., 401

Dome, tiled, 196

Donkeys, 365
handsome, 342

Doogh, 171

Doong, 391

Door, substitute for, 394

Doors at Erzeroum, 213
silver, 196

Double snipe, 107

Dozd-gah, 262

Dr. Hoernle, 163

Dr. Odling, 351

Dressel’s, 408

Dresses of honour, 51

Dress of dervishes, 43

Dried bread, 336
fruits, preparing, 169

Drink in Julfa, 141

Drive to Ispahan, 373

Drunkards, Persian, 141

Dubbeh, 188

Ducks, wild, 176

Dunaberg, 407

Dung beetles, 216

Duration of journey, 412

Durbend, 404

Dyah, 326

Dying twice, 203

Early rising, 33, 116

Eating opium, 181

Ecbatana, 80

Economy of trading class, 172

Educated women, 339

Education, 337
of Armenians, 144

Effects of Bastinado, 148

Egglesiah Wang, 138, 157

Embassy, the English, 372

Embroideries, 333

Enamels, 331

English missionaries, 155

Engraving on metal, 332
seal, 184

Enzelli, 210, 402

Episcopal throne, 160

Erivan, 19

Eructation, politeness of, 91

Erzeroum, 212

Esther, tomb of, 75

Etiquette, 28

Evil eye, the, 325

Exaggeration, 315

Execution of a Baabi, 154
of a Prince, 125
of a woman, 275
of women, 122

Executions, 202

Expelled nun, 163

Expenses, our, 187

Eyebrows, painting the, 325

Eyn-ul-Molk, 38

Fair hair at a discount, 324

Faithless women, fate of, 275

Faizabad, 356

Fallen fruit, 311

Fals, 277

Famine, 251 to 255
at Ispahan, 253
at Kūmishah, 254
at Shiraz, 253
grain seized during the, 252
rise in mule-hire during the, 251

Fantails, 94

Fards, use of, 323

Farnooses, 115

Fars, 272

Fast of Ramazan, 284

Fasts, Armenian, 144

Father, the, 314

Fathmeh, 387

Fee, compulsory, of a vizier, 255

Feen, 386

Fellek, 147

Fellow-travellers, Persian, 215

Felt coats, 152, 320

Feramūsh Khana, 124

Ferhad and Shireen, 119

Feridan, 131

Fermenting of wine, 232

Ferns and bush vegetation, 400

Fight amongst robbers, 265

Fighting rams, 308

Figures of (?) Fame, 119

Finn, Mr., 310

Firdūsi, 338

Fire temple, 364

Firewood as a crop, 364
weighing, 25

Fireworks, 377

Firman, Royal, 257

First cousins, 326
fruits, 168
professional, visit, 41

Fish in hot spring, 348
in kanāats, 128
poison, 129
poisoning, 386

Flap-jacks, 335

Flat, the, 405

Flirtations, the Prince’s, 280

Flowers, common, 172
near Caspian, 400
wild, 173

Foods of poor, 336

Forests near Caspian, 400

Forged antiquities, 76

Fortune-tellers, 120

Freehold, my cheap, 206

Frogs, 398

Frozen wine, 58

Fruit, fallen, 311

Fruits, 168

“Furder,” 126

Furniture, black-wood, 345
want of, 123

Fussa, 240, 243
fertility, 247
Governor of, 244

Futteh Ali Shah’s family, 59

G⸺, Colonel, 2

G⸺, Mr., 97

Gambling in Pera, 9

Game, 299

Games, 97

Gardening, 309

Garden-parties, 311

Gardens at Shiraz, 223

Gate of Royal Garden, 198

Gelim, 152

Georgian ladies, 17

Gersteiger Khan, the Baron, 370

Gez, 158, 383

Ghilān shoes, 399

Gholam, a bold, 178

Girls’ school, 165

Goggles, 54

Golden pipes, 112

Goldsmid, Sir F., 56, 157, 417

Goor Khur, 308

Gougas, 127

Governor of Fars, 135
Fussa, 244

Governor’s garden, 199

Grain, extracting, 174
stores, curious, 385

Grape feeding of horses, 103
sugar, 171

Grapes as horse feed, 171
varieties of, 171

Grateful Armenian, 93

Graves, Armenian, 162

Great square of Teheran, 52

Gregor, Saint, 160

Greyhounds, 305

“Grimes,” 344

Guebre-abad, 385

Guebre gardener, 369

Gulf Arabs, 106

Gulhaek, 369
road, 36

Gūlpigon, 127, 132

Gulshan caravanserai, 200

Gūmrūkji, anecdote of a, 237

Gun at sunset, 284

Gunge, a, 77

Guns, blowing from, 202

Gurken, 216

Gymnastics, 98

H⸺, Mr., 128

Habashi, 326

Hadji, 121

Hadjiabad, 354

Hadji Ali Akbar, 229
Baba, 3
Kawam, 272
Khalleel, 109
Mahomed, 381
Saduk Ispahani, 192

Hadji Mirza Kerim, 192

Hafiz, tomb of, 276

Hailstones, large, 391

Hair of women, 323
wearing the, 321

Hajeeb, 392

Hakim-bashi, 201
princes, the, 145

Hamadan, 57, 64
vines at, 311
wine, 57

Hamilton poles, 301

Handicrafts, 189

Hansard, Captain, 343

Harem, the, 39

Hassir, 197

Hats, 223, 320

Headgear, 321

Head-rolling dervish, 43

Health of the staff, 296

Henna, 334

High priest, anecdote of, 290

Highway robbers, 263

Hippocrates, 82

Hissam-es-Sultaneh, 204

Hockey, Sergeant, 127

Hoernle, Dr., 163

Home-life of families, 92

Honesty of Ispahanis, 192

Hornet, death from sting of, 250

Horse-breaking, 352

Horse clothing, 90
feed, 102
market, the, 201

Horses, breeds of, 104
grape feeding on, 103
height of, 100
on grass, 103
price of, 106

Hospitality, strange want of, 267

Hotel at Kasvin, 395
de Byzance, 212

Hot spring, 348

Houssein and Hassan, 279
Khari, 201
Kūli Khan, death of, 262
name of, 281

House-building, 126

House, I buy a, 206
snakes, 307

Huge tent, 280

Hughes, Mr., 127

Hunting party, 84

I am mobbed, 82

I am robbed, 263

Ibrahim, 383

Ice, cheapness of, 246
mode of making, 241

Ices, 240

I commence the cornet, 72

I decorate a house, 206

Idleness of Armenians, 359

I fall among brigands, 259

Illness, 207
of Zil-es-Sultan, 255

Imādieh, 118

Imād-u-Dowlet, 108
looted, 119

Imād-u-Dowlet’s bad son, 124

Imām-i-Juma, 153, 199

Imām Riza, 387

Imāmzādeh Hāshem, 400

Immorality of Armenians, 138
pigeon-flying, 94

Impregnable village, 262

Impromptu entertainment, 312

Indelicate dress of ladies, 40

Indian lottery, 340

Industry of Armenian women, 360

Infants, 325

Inlaid work, 332

Interest, rate of, 76

Interior of house of a grandee, 39
mosque, 97

Intricate carpentry, 39

Intrigues of Shiraz women, 276

Ironing, 333

Iron poles, 301

Irregular cavalry, 266

Irreligion common, 339

Irrigation, artificial, 127

Iskender, 378

Ispahan, 215
arrival at, 135

Ispahan bridge, 135
cobs, 105

Ispahani, honesty of, 192

Ispahan priests, 197
start for, 127

Istikhara, 277

Istikhbal, 56, 109

J⸺, Colonel, V.C., 217

J⸺, Mr., 387

Jack and Jill, 83

Jade teapot, 201

Jaffir Kūli, 381

Jahn-i-ma Garden, 276

Japanese embassy, 377

Jars of sweets, broken, 258

Jeddah, 342

Jejim carpets, 152

Jesuits, church of, 143

Jewelled belts, 320
wand, 258

Jewellery, 323

Jewish sacrifice, 258
shrines, 75

Jews, 74, 146
at Erzeroum, 213
burial-ground, 293
oppression of, 146
thrown into tank, 52
treatment of, 377

Jika, the, 322

Johannes, Mr., 144, 163

Jokes of robbers, 267

Journey home, 208, 381
through Turkey, 213

Juba, the, 318

Judicious bishop, 139

Julfa, 135, 137
ancient, 161
cathedral, 157
cemetery, 162
customs, 359
doorways, 142
emigration, 143
nunnery, 139
origin of, 161
priests, 363
quarters, 206

Justice, 146
Persian, 295

Kabobs, 89, 297

Kafsh, 321

Kah, 174

Kah-gil, 369

Kahtam, 332

Kakheite wine, 18

Kalāat, meeting the, 255
my, 258
of Kawam, 258

Kalam-dan, 288

Kalian, 15

Kalians, details as to, 29

Kalifa, Kuchek, 138

Kammer, 142

Kanāats, 127

Kangawar, fish in, 128
temple at, 107

Kanjar, 320

Karabagh, 219
horses, 105

Karageus, 6

Kara Sū, the river, 108

Kashan, 385

Kashish Mardyros, 141

Kasim, wedding of, 282

Kasvin, Syud at, 208

Kawam, 257
Kalāat of, 258

Kawamabad, 355

Kawam-u-Dowlet, 239

Kawam-ul-Molk, 270

Kazerūn, 349

Keesa, the, 334

Kemball, Sir A., 208

Kemmerbund, 320

Kemmercheen, 318

Kerbela, 271

Kerbelai, 387

Kermanshah, 109
cheapness of, 112

Kerman shawls, 162
wine, 235

Kerrij, 27

Kerrind, 126

Khana Zinyūn, 225, 351

Khan Wakeel, 243

Khedkhoda, a, 268

Kherrah, 393

Khona Khora, 260

Khonsar, 131

Khosro Mirza, 203, 205, 217

Khyat, a, 191

“King Panther,” 45

King’s palace, 49
poet, 51
relative, 90

Kishmish wine, 159

Kit for Persia, 3

Knitting socks, 142

Kōhrūd Pass, the, 384

Kola, the, 320
Mūschir, 222

Kolajah, 318

Konar Khora, 356

Koom (or Kūm), 387

Koomishah (or Kūmishah), 268
famine at, 254

Koordi tobacco, 33

Koran reading, 337

Kosh gūzeran, 223

Kossid, a, 355

Kotol, a, 282

Kotul Dokter, 349
Peri Zun, 350

Kotuls, the, 349

Kūh Sufi, 162

Kūm, 387

Kūmishah, 357

Kumrahs, 230

Kūrdi bread, 336

Kurrachee, 344

Kūrsi, 138

Kūrūk, the custom of, 370

Kuttl-i-aum, or general massacre, 272

Lady patients, 38
Shiel, 154

La Fontaine, M., 7

Lake Jeukjar, 18

Lallahs, 326

Law, teachers of the, 338
as to cheques, 239
muleteers, 382

Lawn-tennis, 369

Laying carpets, mode of, 152

Lazarist Fathers, 165

Led horses, 56

Lemur, 343

Letter, a Persian, 289

Lighted charcoal, mode of producing, 390

Lika-ul-Molk, 270

Lilium candidum, 173

Lilliane, 131

Lily, painting the, 173

Linga, 345

Lion and Sun, Order of, 258
country, 351
cubs, 222
the tame, 306

Lioness, story of a, 350

Lisbon, 341

Little bishop, 158

Living, cost of, 186

Lizards, 93

Lodahs, 231

Lost arts, 162

Lottery, Indian, 340

Lutf-Ali-Khan, 264

Lūti-pūti, 239

Lūtis, 306

Lying, 315

Macheelah plain, 347

Madame O⸺, 340

Mad dog, 83

Magazine rifle, 224

Mahomed Ali, 19

Mahomed’s pigeon, 94

Mahommed Ali Khan, 146
Houssein Khan, 19

Major S⸺, 208

Major’s dervish, the, 42

Major St. John, 350

Maker of antiquities, 201

Malek Mahommed Beg, 329

Malekneas Khan, 126

Managing Persians, 179

Man nailed to post, 112
nurse, 276

Manuring, 174

Marching by night, 353
in Persia, 413

March to Shiraz, 206

Mardiros, Kashish, 141

Mare, I buy a, 349

Marg, 269

“Marjahn,” 302

Marnūn, 364

Marriage of Armenian priests, 141

Martyr, a, 154

Mary’s flower, 173

Mashallah, 290

Masreh, 396

Mast, 171

Master of ceremonies, 49
of the mint, 369

Matting, varieties of, 197

Maxūd Beg, 268, 357

Mayar, 357

McGowan, Sergeant, 384

McIntyre, Sergeant, 357

McL⸺, Sergeant, 386

“Meana bug,” the, 26, 217

Medical missionary, 163
practice, 182