Chapter I: Front Matter

IN DARKEST AFRICA

OR THE

QUEST, RESCUE, AND RETREAT OF EMIN GOVERNOR OF EQUATORIA

BY HENRY M. STANLEY

WITH TWO STEEL ENGRAVINGS, AND ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS

IN TWO VOLUMES Vol. I

"I will not cease to go forward until I come to the place where the two seas meet, though I travel ninety years."--Koran, chap, xviii., v. 62.

NEW YORK CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 1890 [_All rights reserved_]

Copyright, 1890, by CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS

Press of J. J. Little & Co., Astor Place, New York.

CONTENTS OF VOLUME I.

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Page

Prefatory Letter to Sir William Mackinnon, Chairman of the Emin Pasha relief expedition 1

CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

The Khedive and the Soudan--Arabi Pasha--Hicks Pasha's defeat--The Mahdi --Sir Evelyn Baring and Lord Granville on the Soudan--Valentine Baker Pasha--General Gordon: his work in the Upper Soudan--Edward Schnitzler (or Emin Effendi Hakim) and his Province--General Gordon at Khartoum: and account of the Relief Expedition in 1884 under Lord Wolseley--Mr. A. M. Mackay, the missionary in Uganda--Letters from Emin Bey to Mr. Mackay, Mr. C. H. Allen, and Dr. R. W. Felkin, relating to his Province--Mr. F. Holmwood's and Mr. A. M. Mackay's views on the proposed relief of Emin--Suggested routes for the Emin Relief Expedition--Sir Wm. Mackinnon and Mr. J. F. Hutton--The Relief Fund and preparatory details of the Expedition--Colonel Sir Francis De Winton--Selection of officers for the Expedition--King Leopold and the Congo Route--Departure for Egypt 11

CHAPTER II. EGYPT AND ZANZIBAR.

Surgeon T. H. Parke--Views of Sir Evelyn Baring, Nubar Pasha, Professor Schweinfurth and Dr. Junker on the Emin Relief Expedition--Details relating to Emin Pasha and his Province--General Grenfell and the ammunition--Breakfast with Khedive Tewfik: message to Emin Pasha--Departure for Zanzibar--Description of Mombasa town--Visit to the Sultan of Zanzibar--Letter to Emin Pasha sent by messenger through Uganda--Arrangements with Tippu-Tib--Emin Pasha's Ivory--Mr. MacKenzie, Sir John Pender, and Sir James Anderson's assistance to the Relief Expedition 49

CHAPTER III. BY SEA TO THE CONGO RIVER.

The Sultan of Zanzibar--Tippu-Tib and Stanley Falls--On board s.s. _Madura_--"Shindy" between the Zanzibaris and Soudanese--Sketches of my various Officers--Tippu-Tib and Cape Town--Arrival at the mouth of the Congo River--Start up the Congo--Visit from two of the Executive Committee of the Congo State--Unpleasant thoughts 67

CHAPTER IV. TO STANLEY POOL.

Details of the journey to Stanley Pool--The Soudanese and the Somalis--Meeting with Mr. Herbert Ward--Camp at Congo la Lemba--Kindly entertained by Mr. and Mrs. Richards--Letters from up river--Letters to the Rev. Mr. Bentley and others for assistance--Arrival at Mwembi--Necessity of enforcing discipline--March to Vombo--Incident at Lukungu Station--The Zanzibaris--Incident between Jephson and Salim at the Inkissi River--A series of complaints--The Rev. Mr. Bentley and the steamer _Peace_--We reach Makoko's village--Leopoldville--Difficulties regarding the use of the Mission steamers--Monsieur Liebrichts sees Mr. Billington--Visit to Mr. Swinburne at Kinshassa--Orders to, and duties of, the officers 79

CHAPTER V. FROM STANLEY POOL TO YAMBUYA.

Upper Congo scenery--Accident to the _Peace_--Steamers reach Kimpoko--Collecting fuel--The good-for-nothing _Peace_--The _Stanley_ in trouble--Arrival at Bolobo--The Relief Expedition arranged in two columns--Major Barttelot and Mr. Jameson chosen for command of Rear Column--Arrival at Equator and Bangala Stations--The Basoko villages: Baruti deserts us--Arrival at Yambuya 99

CHAPTER VI. AT YAMBUYA.

We land at Yambuya villages--The _Stanley_ leaves for Equator Station--Fears regarding Major Barttelot and the _Henry Reed_--Safe arrival--Instructions to Major Barttelot and Mr. Jameson respecting the Rear Column--Major Barttelot's doubts as to Tippu-Tib's good faith--A long conversation with Major Barttelot--Memorandum for the officers of the Advance Column--Illness of Lieutenant Stairs--Last night at Yambuya: statements as to our forces and accoutrements 111

CHAPTER VII. TO PANGA FALLS.

An African road--Our mode of travelling through the forests--Farewell to Jameson and the Major--160 days in the forest--The Rapids of Yambuya--Attacked by natives of Yankonde--Rest at the village of Bahunga--Description of our march--The poisoned Skewers--Capture of six Babali--Dr. Parke and the bees--A tempest in the forest--Mr. Jephson puts the steel boat together--The village of Bukanda--Refuse heaps of the villages--The Aruwimi river scenery--Villages of the Bakuti and the Bakoka--The Rapids of Gwengweré--The boy Bakula-Our "chop and coffee"--The islands near Bandangi--The Baburu dwarfs--The unknown course of the river--The Somalis--Bartering at Mariri and Mupé--The Aruwimi at Mupé--The Babé manners, customs, and dress--Jephson's two adventures--Wasp Rapids--The chief of the Bwamburi--Our camp at My-yui--Canoe accident--An abandoned village--Arrival at Panga Falls--Description of the Falls 134

CHAPTER VIII. FROM TANGA FALLS TO UGARROWWA'S.

Another accident at the Rapids--The village of Utiri--Avisibba settlement--Enquiry into a murder case at Avisibba--Surprised by the natives--Lieutenant Stairs wounded--We hunt up the enemy--The poisoned arrows--Indifference of the Zanzibaris--Jephson's caravan missing--Our wounded--Perpetual rain--Deaths of Khalfan, Saadi, and others--Arrival of caravan--The Mabengu Rapids--Mustering the people--The Nepoko river--Remarks by Binza--Our food supply--Reckless use of ammunition--Half-way to the Albert Lake--We fall in with some of Ugarrowwa's men--Absconders--We camp at Hippo Broads and Avakubi Rapids--The destroyed settlement of Navabi--Elephants at Memberri--More desertions--The Arab leader, Ugarrowwa--He gives us information--Visit to the Arab settlement--First specimen of the tribe of dwarfs--Arrangements with Ugarrowwa 171

CHAPTER IX. UGARROWWA'S TO KILONGA-LONGA'S.

Ugarrowwa sends us three Zanzibari deserters--We make an example--The 'Express' rifles--Conversation with Rashid--The Lenda river--Troublesome rapids--Scarcity of food--Some of Kilonga-Longa's followers--Meeting of the rivers Ihuru and Ituri--State and numbers of the Expedition--Illness of Captain Nelson--We send couriers ahead to Kilonga-Longa's--The sick encampment--Randy and the guinea fowl--Scarcity of food--Illness caused by the forest pears--Fanciful menus--More desertions--Asmani drowned--Our condition in brief--Uledi's suggestion--Umari's climb--My donkey is shot for food--We strike the track of the Manyuema and arrive at their village 211

CHAPTER X. WITH THE MANYUEMA AT IPOTO.

The ivory hunters at Ipoto--Their mode of proceeding--The Manyuema headmen and their raids--Remedy for preventing wholesale devastations--Crusade preached by Cardinal Lavigerie--Our Zanzibar chiefs--Anxiety respecting Captain Nelson and his followers--Our men sell their weapons for food--Theft of rifles--Their return demanded--Uledi turns up with news of the missing chiefs--Contract drawn up with the Manyuema headmen for the relief of Captain Nelson--Jephson's report on his journey--Reports of Captain Nelson and Surgeon Parke--The process of blood brotherhood between myself and Ismaili--We leave Ipoto 236