Chapter XXII: South to the Forbidden Sus (2)

It is said that when Sidi Okba made his great march from the Nile to the Atlantic he and his warriors rode in the shade of trees all the way. But even if this statement once were true—and the Arabs are fond of exaggeration—it is true no longer. Nevertheless, Morocco is by no means destitute of arboreal beauty. The cork-tree, which once provided the country with an important industry, has lost ground enormously, the Moroccans being unable to keep pace with Portuguese and Spanish competition; but it is still found in great numbers in the Ma’mora forest, twenty miles in length, which lies between the Sebu and the Bou Ragrag, and there is a similar and even larger forest not far from Mequinez. I have already spoken of the vast argan forest, nearly five thousand square miles in extent, to the east of Mogador; while on the lower slopes of the mountains the mimosa, the aloe, and the prickly pear are abundant, and higher up evergreens, pines, and junipers, cypresses and cedars, clothe the mountain valleys in mantles of vivid green. Of the individual trees, none is more remarkable than the arar, a cypress-like tree which is found both in the Moroccan and the Algerian Atlas. From its beautiful and enduring timber was built the roof of the famous cathedral at Cordova; it has been identified with the citrus-wood of the ancient Romans; and it furnishes a valuable variety of gum.

The _kasbahs_ of the Grand Caïds, like the castles of the old robber barons, invariably occupy positions of great natural strength, usually commanding mountain passes. The massive rose-red walls of the Kasbah Goundafi tower above the narrow defile in the High Atlas through which runs the trade-route between Marrákesh and the Sus]

For some reason most people think of Morocco as an extremely hot country, yet, save in the far south, it is not even a subtropical one, having, in fact, much the same climate as the lands on the opposite side of the Mediterranean, to which its flora and its general physical character bear a striking resemblance. It has been described as a cold country with a hot sun, and this is true on the whole, though it is manifestly unsafe to generalize regarding a region so extensive in area and so varied in altitude. The coast, shielded by the maritime ranges from the hot winds of the Sahara and fanned by cool breezes from the sea, has a climate akin to that of the Riviera, but without the chilling mistrals and the sudden changes in temperature which make life on the Côte d’Azur so trying at times. Inland Morocco becomes extremely disagreeable, however, during the summer heat and winter rains, the best times for visiting the interior being from late September to early December and from the end of April to mid-June. Like California, it is a country of extremes, for, looking across the orange-groves from the windows of my room in Marrákesh, when the thermometer stood at nearly 100 in the shade, I have seen snow gleaming on the Atlas, less than a score of miles away.

The Atlas, which forms the backbone of the country, is known to the Moors as Idráren Dráren—Mountains of Mountains. And it is appropriately named, for as I have remarked elsewhere, it has a greater average height than the Alps, its series of tremendous peaks culminating in Mount Tinzar, which has an estimated height of fifteen thousand feet, being higher, therefore, than any peak in the United States outside of Alaska. The Moroccan Atlas consists of five distinct ranges varying in length and height but running more or less parallel to one another. Southernmost of the five is Djebel Saghru, or Anti-Atlas, which forms Morocco’s first line of natural defense against the Sahara. Since the dawn of history caravans of slaves, spices, ostrich-feathers, ivory, and gold from Central Africa and the Niger countries have entered Morocco by the passes of the Anti-Atlas, one of them being a gap barely five paces in width, the strata of variegated marbles which form its walls having been polished to a gleaming brilliancy by the camels and bales of merchandise which have rubbed against them through countless centuries.

The main range, known as the High Atlas, which we were now approaching, is by far the longest and loftiest of the five chains. Its southern flanks, being exposed to the hot, dry winds of the Sahara, are almost totally destitute of vegetation; but the slopes facing toward the north are covered with splendid forests of oak, cedar, cork, and pine and inclose numerous well watered valleys of great fertility, in which half-savage Berber tribes, their miserable villages clinging precariously to the hillsides, cultivate tiny irrigated fields with the implements used in the days of Abraham.

For a distance of a hundred miles or more that portion of the High Atlas lying to the south of Marrákesh is a huge blank wall, unpierced by any passes practicable for motor-cars or even caravans; but further to the west a road of sorts crosses the Bibawan Pass at a height of 4150 feet and drops down into the valley of the upper Sus; while beyond it the Goundafi Pass, considerably lower but more rugged and difficult, gives access to the Susi capital of Tarundant.

Perhaps I have not made it sufficiently clear that our destination was the valley between the High Atlas and the Anti-Atlas traversed by the River Sus, from which it takes its name and whose ever-flowing stream is sufficient to turn the whole district into a garden. Once an independent kingdom, peopled by a race of warlike and highly fanatical Berber mountaineers, believed to be immensely rich in mines of gold and copper, long closed to trade by imperial decree, and still too unruly to be opened to Europeans, the Sus is one of the most inaccessible, picturesque, and interesting regions in the empire. Caravans laden with copper-ware, olive-oil, butter, saffron, wax, goatskins, dates, dried roses, gold-dust—how their mere enumeration stirs the imagination!—regularly make the four days’ journey over the rugged Goundafi Pass from Tarundant to Marrákesh; and a handful of French officials are now scattered through the district, which is gradually becoming pacified, but it is still regarded as unsafe for foreigners and is officially forbidden to colonists or travelers, permission to visit it being obtainable only from the French resident-general at Rabat, who passes the request on to the Grand Caïds who are the real masters of the country.

It is a region of savagery and grandeur; the soaring, snow-capped peaks, the ramparts of purple rock, the narrow roads bordered by dizzy precipices, the dark and gloomy forests of cypress, pine, and cedar, the leafy glens, the tumbling streams and sparkling waterfalls, the stone villages perched each on its mountain-top, all reminded us of the Grand Kabylia, which the Sus resembles, though on a vastly greater and more impressive scale. The Susi, who speak a Berber dialect called Shillah, are a hard-bitten, wiry race, distinguished in dress by their short cloaks of a brown and white striped homespun and by the fact that they do not as a rule wear turbans. Fierce fighters, shrewd traders, skilled workers in the copper mined from their native mountains, they lead hard, squalid, and frugal lives, being prodigal only in powder and human life.

Now we were in the dominions of the Caïd Goundafi, the great feudal chieftain who is overlord of the Sus; and it was thanks to him that, at the request of General Daugan, the French commander at Marrákesh, our journey was made not only safe but reasonably comfortable. For there are no hotels in the Sus, and, unless Gandoufi makes arrangements for the traveler to be put up at his _kasbahs_, one is faced with the alternatives of passing a sleepless night in a vermin-infested hovel or of making himself as comfortable as he can in the open.

These _kasbahs_, which are to be found not only in the fastnesses of the High Atlas but throughout central and southern Morocco, are in reality feudal strongholds, half-palace and half-fortress. They are usually situated far from the beaten paths of travel, occupying positions of great natural strength; for, like the French and English castles of the Middle Ages, they were originally designed with a view to defense against the incursions of the border tribes. With their crenelated ramparts and keeps and bastions, their drawbridges and courtyards, their loopholed walls and massive towers, they are immensely imposing and frequently of astounding size, one of those which we visited bearing a striking resemblance to Windsor Castle. To emerge from a gloomy defile, whose rocky walls rise sheer on either hand, and be confronted by one of these stupendous strongholds frowning down from its lofty site upon the valley below, produces an impression not far removed from awe. The traveler has the feeling that he has been magically transported back into the dim and distant past, “when knights were bold and barons held their sway,” the impression of an earlier age being heightened when he sees a cavalcade of brilliantly garbed horsemen issuing from the bastioned gate and catches on the battlements the glint of steel.

Hidden away in the remote fastnesses of the High Atlas are the _kasbahs_ of the Grand Caïds—African counterparts of the baronial castles of the Middle Ages]

And so, following the winding Sus, we swung down through the green and ever-broadening valley to where, set on a lofty eminence above the river’s mouth, the white battlements of Agadir—the Santa Cruz de Berbería of the Spaniards, the Gate of the Sudan—look out upon the broad Atlantic. Barbary lay behind us; our long journey was at an end. As I stood upon the hill-slopes looking down upon the cluster of square white houses which form the little town, it struck me that Agadir, remote as it is, was in a way symbolic of all North Africa. Its Berber inhabitants converted by the Arabs to Islam, it has been occupied in turn by Portuguese, by Spaniards, and by French, yet the Arabs alone have left any lasting impression. Coveted by the Germans because of its mineral wealth, it almost precipitated a great European war. Whether it will remain isolated, barbarous, and forbidden, or whether it will be opened up to civilization, only the future can determine. But I was too tired to speculate on African problems, so I left the Dark Continent to settle its own troubles and turned my attention to the evening meal. When darkness had fallen we climbed to the ancient fort atop the hill, my wife and I, and, ensconcing ourselves in an angle of the seaward ramparts, gazed out across the silent, star-lit ocean to where, four thousand miles away, lay America—and home. At our backs the ghostly bulk of the High Atlas reared itself skyward in a mighty and mysterious wall. From somewhere amid the shadows of the sleeping town below came the throb of desert drums.

So we sat, just she and I, on the fort,
That crumbling shell of transient power,
While o’erhead the vast armadas of all time went wheeling by
And we watched their flashing signals hour on hour.

A SHORT GLOSSARY OF ARABIC WORDS AND PHRASES COMMONLY USED IN BARBARY

_Adar-ya-yan!_ Command used to bring a camel to its knees.

_Afrit_ Spirit, ghost.

_Agal_ The cord, commonly of wool but sometimes of gold, for binding the head-cloth in place.

_Ahl Kitab_ The People of the Book; that is, Christians or Jews.

_Allah_ God.

_Allahu Akbar!_ God is great!

_Andak!_ Stop! Halt!

_Anderun_ That portion of a house or tent occupied by the women.

_’Arasi_ Pleasure-gardens.

_Aselamu aleikum_ Greeting to you!

_Asha_ The evening prayer.

_Asr_ The afternoon prayer.

_’Atara_ Sweet-smelling.

_Bab_ Gate.

_Barek balek!_ Look out! Make way!

_Bairaq_ A tribal flag or banner, an ensign of rank.

_Barracan_ Woman’s outer garment.

_Barrak_ To form animals into line or square.

_Bassourab_ The striped, hooped camel-tent, shaped somewhat like a balloon, in which women travel.

_Basha_ The Arab’s pronunciation of “Pasha,” as there is no _p_ in the Arabic alphabet.

_Bey_ The hereditary title of the rulers of Tunisia; the governor of a Turkish province.

_Berkouks_ Pellets of sweetened rice.

_Bilhana!_ Wishing you joy!

_Bilshifa!_ Wishing you health!

_Bismillah!_ In the name of Allah!

_Bled_ Plain.

_Bokra_ To-morrow.

_Borj_ Tower.

_Burghal_ A dish of mince-meat and porridge.

_Burkha_ An outer garment, with slits for the eyes, which envelops a woman from head to foot.

_Burnous_ A cloak-like garment with a hood attached.

_Cadi_, or _Kadi_ A judge; a magistrate who tries cases involving the Koranic law.

_Caïd_ or _Kaïd_ A prince, a governor, a tribal ruler.

_Caftan_ A long gown with sleeves, usually of silk.

_Chéchia_ Tunisian fez.

_Cherchem_ Beans.

_Cous-cous_ A lamb stuffed with almonds and raisins and roasted whole.

_Dahir_ Decree.

_Dar_ Palace.

_Dhuhr_ The midday prayer.

_Diffa_ A meal, banquet, feast.

_Djamaa_ Mosque.

_Djebel_ A mountain, or range of mountains.

_Djemel_ A baggage camel.

_Djerid_ Palm-frond; also applied to a region in southern Tunisia.

_Djinn_ An evil spirit.

_Douar_ A large encampment.

_Eblis_ The Moslem infernal regions; hell.

_Ekhwan_ The elders of a tribe.

_El_ The.

_Emir_ A prince, an independent chieftain, a title given to certain descendants of Mohammed.

_Emshi!_ Go away! Clear out!

_Emshi besselema!_ A farewell salutation, equivalent to “Good night.”

_Erg_ Sand-dune.

_Faddhl_ To converse, gossip.

_Fakous_ Cucumber.

_Fantasia_ An exhibition of horsemanship and “powder play,” similar to the Spanish _rodeo_.

_Fatha_ The opening verse of the Koran.

_Fatta_ A dish of eggs and carrots.

_Fedjr_ The morning prayer.

_Feisha_ An amulet or charm.

_Fesquia_ Reservoir.

_Fil-fil_ The soft boots worn in the desert.

_Fondouk_ or _Fondak_ A cheap inn, a lodging-place for caravan-men.

_Foum_ Mouth.

_Franzawi_ French, a Frenchman.

_Gandoura_ A long garment, usually of cotton, resembling a night-gown.

_Ghar_ A subterranean dwelling in the Matmata country.

_Giaour_ An infidel, an unbeliever.

_Gibli_ A sand-laden desert wind.

_Girba_ A water-skin, four usually being carried on each camel of a caravan.

_Goumier_ or _Goum_ A native policeman, a light horseman; in Barbary the _goumiers_ form a force of mounted constabulary.

_Hadj_ A pilgrimage, as to Mecca.

_Hadji_ A pilgrim, distinguished by a green scarf about his turban when he has made the Mecca pilgrimage.

_Haik_ The combined head-cloth and veil worn by the desert tribes; also the veil worn by women in the towns.

_Hakim_ A physician.

_Hamad_ A stony plain, a steppe.

_Hamdullilah!_ It shall be so!

_Hamla_ Baggage camels.

_Hamman_ A bath, a bathing establishment.

_Hamra_ Red.

_Haram_ The forbidden. Synonymous with _harem_.

_Harem_ The wives and concubines of a Moslem or the apartments allotted to them. Pronounced _ha-réem_.

_Harka_ A band of fighting-men, varying in number.

_Haya alla Salat! Haya alla Falah!_ The Moslem call to prayer.

_Hejin_ A racing-camel.

_Hejira_ Flight; specifically, the flight of Mohammed from Mecca, September 13, A.D. 622.

_Henna_, or _Hinna_ A thorn-shrub and the reddish stain made from it.

_Hezaam_ A woman’s veil.

_Houri_ A nymph of the Mohammedan paradise, a beautiful and seductive woman.

_Imam_ A priest; also a descendant of Mohammed who exercises both princely and priestly powers.

_Inshallah!_ The will of God!

_Islam_ The Mohammedan religion; the whole body of Mohammedans, or the countries which they occupy.

_Jalib_ A well.

_Jehad_ A holy war.

_Jellabia_ A smock-like garment, worn under the burnous.

_Ka’aba_ The great sanctuary at Mecca, the Moslem holy of holies.

_Kadi_ or _Cadi_ A judge; a magistrate who tries cases involving the Koranic law.

_Kaibabs_ Bits of mutton roasted on a skewer.

_Kaïd_ or _Caïd_ A prince, a governor, a tribal ruler.

_Kantara_ Bridge.

_Kasbah_ A fortress or castle.

_Kasr_ A castle.

_Kahena_ Priestess.

_Keffieh_ A head-cloth.

_Kebir_ Strong.

_Khalif_, or _Caliph_ A title of the successors of Mohammed both as temporal and spiritual rulers; now used by the sultans of Morocco.

_Khalifa_ A representative or viceroy of the Khalif.

_Khallas!_ It is finished!

_Khalouk_ Rouge.

_Khams_ A charm, usually taking the form of the hand of Fatima.

_Khamsin_ Fifty; also a sand-laden desert wind which, it is claimed, blows intermittently for fifty days.

_Khoorg_ A sack or basket used for carrying dates and fodder on the march.

_Khouan_ A holy man.

_Kief halak!_ How do you do? How are you?

_Kohl_ A preparation of soot used by women to darken the eyelids.

_Koran_ The Mohammedan Scriptures, containing the professed revelations to Mohammed.

_Koubba_ A tomb, usually of a holy man; a shrine.

_Kubla_, or _Kibla_ The point at Mecca toward which Mohammedans turn in prayer.

_Leben_ Curdled sheep’s, goat’s, or camel’s milk.

_Litham_ The face-cloth, usually blue, worn by Touareg warriors.

_Madresseh_ or _Mederseh_ Theological school or college, usually connected with a mosque.

_Maghreb_, or _Moghreb_ The West.

_Magzhen_ Government, administration.

_Mansour_ Victor, conqueror.

_Mansoura_ The victorious.

_Marabout_ A holy man, a saint. The name is also applied to a shrine, usually built over a saint’s tomb.

_Masjid_ A mosque, a place of worship.

_Mehara_ A highly bred racing-camel.

_Mehari_ Plural of _mehara_.

_Mehariste_ A rider of a mehara; that is, a soldier of the Camel Corps.

_Mellah_ The name applied to the quarter occupied by the Jews in certain towns.

_Mejless_ A tribal council.

_Mektub!_ It is written!

_Meskoutine_ Accursed.

_Mihrab_ The niche in a mosque indicating the direction of Mecca.

_Mimbar_ Pulpit.

_Mirabit_ A militant monk; the genesis of _marabout_.

_Mish’ab_ A camel-stick.

_Mogh’reb_ or _Magh’reb_ The West; also the sunset prayer.

_Mou’abbir_ A pious and learned man.

_Muezzin_ A caller to prayer.

_Mullah_ or _Mollah_ A priest.

_Nargileh_ A pipe, in which the smoke is drawn through water.

_Nasria_ A bottle-shaped reservoir.

_Nazrani_ A Christian.

_Nuálla_ The conical thatched hut of central Morocco.

_Nuksh hadida_ Moorish sculptured plaster-work.

_Nullah_ A dried up watercourse.

_N’zala_ The square empty place in the center of a village.

_Pasha_ A Turkish title of rank, still used in Algeria and Morocco.

_Quaita_ A reed instrument, a cross between a whistle and a flute.

_Rabit_ A monastery fortress.

_Rahmat ullahi Allahim!_ The peace of God be upon him!

_Ramadan_ The ninth month of the Mohammedan calendar; the great annual fast of the Moslems.

_Rezel_ Gazelle.

_Rhorfa_ A house in Medenine, in southern Tunisia.

_Roumi_ A European, a Christian.

_Sahab_ Companion, particularly of the Prophet.

_Sahrij_ A pool, an artificial lagoon.

_Salaam_ An obeisance; a low bow with the hand on the forehead.

_Salaam aleikum!_ Greeting to you!

_Salaam aleikum was Rahmat Allah!_ Greeting to you and the peace of Allah!

_Serai_ A place for keeping wives and concubines; usually a portion of a palace.

_Shaduf_ The sweep and bucket used to draw water from a well.

_Sharaqua_ To rise, as the sun; whence _Sirocco_, a wind from the east, the desert.

_Sharq_ The East.

_Shat_ or _Chott_ A canal, estuary, salt lake.

_Shehada_ The Moslem profession of faith: _Ash hadu illa illaha ill Allah, wa ash hadu inna Mohammed an rasool Allah_.

_Sheikh_ The chief of a tribe or clan; also the chief magistrate of a village. Pronounced “_shake_.”

_Sheikh-ul-Islam_ The highest ecclesiastical authority in Islam.

_Sheitan_ The Evil One.

_Shereef_ A member of an Arab princely family descended from Mohammed through his daughter Fatima. It is one of the titles of the sultan of Morocco, and the term “shereefian” is applied to his government.

_Sherifa_ A female descendant of Mohammed.

_Sidi_ A lord, a prince.

_Sitt_ A lady.

_Sokhab_ A tiara of small coins worn by desert women, as the Ouled-Naïl.

_Souk_ A bazaar, a market-place.

_Spahi_ A native cavalryman (Tunisian, Algerian, or Moroccan) in the French service.

_Sura_ A verse of the Koran.

_Taiyib!_ Well! Good!

_Tarboosh_ A cylindrical cap of red or brown felt, higher and straighter than the Turkish fez.

_Tel_ A hill.

_Tell_ The name applied to that portion of Barbary lying between the coastal plains and the high mountains.

_Tobh_ The single garment worn by Arab women of the poorer classes.

_Ulema_ The official interpreters of the Koranic law.

_Vizir_, or _Wazir_ A councilor of state; a cabinet minister.

_Wadi_, or _Wad_ River or small stream. The French spell it _oued_.

_Wahran_ A ravine.

_Wakf_ A religious or benevolent foundation.

_Wakil_ A councilor.

_Wazir_ The same as _vizir_.

_Ya_ Yes.

_Zariba_ A thorny hedge, natural or artificial.

_Zawia_, or _Zaouia_ A monastery; originally the house of a religio-military brotherhood.

_Zemzimayah_ A water-bottle.

_Zouave_ A French infantryman wearing a uniform modeled on the dress of the Zouaoua, a tribe living in the mountains of the Grand Kabylia.

FOOTNOTES

[1] The historical sketch of Carthage and its people in this chapter is largely drawn from “African Shores of the Mediterranean,” by C. F. and L. S. Grant.

[2] See “In the Desert,” by L. March Phillips.

[3] See Colonel Powell’s “The Last Frontier.”

[4] See “In the Desert” by L. March Phillips.

[5] For a full account of Eaton’s remarkable exploit the reader is referred to Colonel Powell’s “Gentlemen Rovers.”

INDEX

Abd-el-Aziz, Sultan, 348, 353

Abd-el-Kader, 159, 295 _et seq._, 331

Abd-el-Krim, 367 _et seq._

Abd-el-Mumin, Sultan, 436

Abd-er-Rahman, Sultan, 347

Abdallah-ibn-Abad, 212

Abou Bekr, Arab conqueror, 106

Abul Hassan, Sultan, 331-332

Adjim (Djerba), 142

Adrar, of the Iforas, 163, 174

Ægusa, Battle of, 63

Æsculapius, 59

Africa, Roman province of, 79

Agadir (Morocco), 350, 457-458

Agrigentum, Battle of, 62

Ahaggar Plateau (Sahara), 173

Ahmed Pasha, bey of Constantine, 252-253

Air, hills of (Sahara), 174, 218

Aïssa, Marabout, 234, 402

Aïssaoua, sect, rites of, Biskra, 233 _et seq._
Mequinez, 402

Alaoui Museum, near Tunis, 47 _et seq._

Alaric the Goth, 79

Alcázar, or Al Kasar (Morocco), 364

Algeciras (Spain), 8, 423

Algeciras Conference, 351 _et seq._

Algeria, 215 _et seq._
agriculture, 316 _et seq._
conquest, 159, 313 _et seq._
government, 311 _et seq._
inhabitants, 314
minerals, 318
motoring, 307 _et seq._
railways, 306
roads, 305 _et seq._
Tell, 311

Algiers (Algeria), 278 _et seq._
Arab city, 281
El Biar, suburb of, 298-9
French city, 280
gardens, 299
Great Mosque, 283
Jardin d’Essai, 300
mosque of Sidi er Rahman, 283
museum, 301
Mustapha Supérieur, 298 _et seq._
New Mosque, 283
Notre Dame d’Afrique, Church of, 303
occupation of, French, 293 _et seq._
palace of deys, 282
palace of governor-general, 299

Alhucemas (Spanish Morocco), 366

Ali V, Sultan, 334

Alides, dynasty of, 347

Alix, General, 356

Almohades, dynasty of, 331, 346, 408, 436

Almoravides, dynasty of, 337, 346

Americans in the Foreign Legion, 336 _et seq._

Americans in the Riff, 368-369

Amor Abbada, Moslem saint, 109

Amr ibn al Asi, Arab conqueror, 106

Andalusians, 16, 34

Anti-Atlas Mountains, 454-455

Arab invasion of North Africa, 80, 106 _et seq._, 114, 243, 341 _et
seq._

Argan Forest, Great (Morocco), 432-433

_Argo_, 151

Argonauts, 136, 150-151

Army in Morocco, French, 445-456

Arouj, corsair chief, 284, 331

Atlas Mountains, 10, 239, 451 _et seq._

Augustus, Emperor, 78, 121, 309

Aurés Mountains, 150, 189, 240, 253

Azan, Colonel Paul, 335

Azemour (Morocco), 431

Azrou (Morocco), 378

Babor, Mount, 267

Balearic Islands, 69

Bamaku (French Sudan), 184

Barb horses, 405

Barbarossa, corsair chief, 20, 252, 269, 284 _et seq._, 320, 331

Barbary, climate, 9, 10
topography, 10, 238-239

Barbers of Tunis, 41

Bardo, palace of, near Tunis, 46 _et seq._

_Bataillons d’Afrique_, 326

Batna (Algeria), 241

Bekri, Arab geographer, 155

Belisarius, 80, 114

Beni-Abbés (Morocco), 168

Beni-Isguen (Algerian Sahara), 217

Beni-M’zab, 212 _et seq._

Berbers, 57, 61, 101, 117, 125, 139, 340 _et seq._

Bey of Tunis, 45

Beylerbeys, Turkish, 286

Bibawan Pass (Morocco), 454

Biskra (Algeria), 10, 152, 216 _et seq._
Aïssaoua, performances of, 233 _et seq._
climate, 224
“Garden of Allah,” 226 _et seq._
Ouled-Naïl, dancing-girls of, 230 _et seq._
Villa Landon, 226 _et seq._

Bizerta (Tunisia), 14 _et seq._

Blake, Admiral Robert, 290

Bled el Hamra (Morocco), 434

Bled Kebira (Tunisia), 122, 124 _et seq._

Blue Gardens at Rabat, 410

Boabdil, king of Granada, 330, 347

Bokharis, 402

Bône (Algeria), 291, 294

Bonnier, Colonel, French explorer, 167

Bordeaux, routes from, 7

Borku (French Equatorial Africa), 174

Bou-Hamara, 348, 354

Bou-Kornein, peaks of (Tunisia), 44, 60, 65

Bou-Ragrag, river (Morocco), 409

Bou-Zarea Hills (Algeria), 303

Bougie (Algeria), 264 _et seq._

British policy in Morocco, 349 _et seq._, 370 _et seq._, 385

Bugeaud, Marshal, 296

Bu-Maza, “goat-man,” 297

Byrsa, 57 _et seq._, 84

Byzacium, 115

Byzantines in Africa, 79, 106, 114, 243

Cæsar, Julius, 78

Cæsarea (Algeria), 108

Caïds, Grand, 357 _et seq._, 362, 445, 455

Caius Gracchus, 78

Calcius Herculis, 240

Cambē, 56

Camels, 208 _et seq._, 218

Cameroons, 164, 352

Canaanites, 57

Cannæ, Battle of, 67

Cape Spartel, 344

Caracalla, Emperor, 408

Caravans, 208

Carpets, Tunisian, 36

Carthage, 17-18, 24, 32, 56 _et seq._
agora, 85
Admiralty Palace, 84, 86, 89
amphitheater, 89-90
aqueduct, 87, 105
area, 82
Byrsa, 57 _et seq._, 84
Cathedral of St. Louis, 94
cemeteries, 93
circus, 89 _et seq._
Cothon, 84 _et seq._, 88-89
Eschmoun, Temple of, 59, 88
forum, 85
harbors, 84 _et seq._, 88-89
Megara, suburb of, 84
Museum, Lavigerie, 86, 95-96
Odéon, 89
population of Punic City, 82
Punic remains, 86
racing, 91 _et seq._
Roman remains, 86 _et seq._, 89 _et seq._
sarcophagi, Punic, 96
Scorpianus, house of, 92
_tabulæ execrationis_, 92-93

Casablanca (Morocco), 353, 424 _et seq._
abattoir, 427-8
communications with Europe, 430
markets, 427
new town, 426-427
Place de France, 426
prostitutes’ quarter, 428-429
_souks_, 426

Cato, Marcus, 72, 78

Cervantes, Miguel de, 288

Ceuta (Spanish Morocco), 365 _et seq._, 370-371, 403

Chabet Pass (Algeria), 264 _et seq._

Charles II, king of England, 290

Charles V, king of Spain, 20, 42

Cherchel (Algeria), 309-310

Chergui, island of (Tunisia), 121

Chotts; see Shats, 149 _et seq._

Christian slaves, Tunisia, 42-43
Algiers, 288 _et seq._

Christians persecuted, Carthage, 79, 85, 89
El Djem, 116

Cirta, 250 _et seq._

Cisneros, Cardinal Ximenes de, 320

Citroen, André, 181

Citroen tractor expeditions, 181 _et seq._

Clausel, Marshal, 253, 331

Cleopatra, 309

Colomb-Béchar (Algeria), 184, 223, 323

Color line in French North Africa, 166

Compagnie Générale Transatlantique services to North Africa, 7, 266,
430
hotel at Constantine, 259
hotel at El Hamma, 144, 148
hotel at El Oued, 194
hotel at Fez, 382
hotel at Marrákesh, 435-436
hotel at Mequinez, 401
hotel at Michelet, 274
hotel at Taza, 379
hotel at Tenes, 310
hotel at Tlemcen, 331
hotel at Tozeur, 156

Congo, French, 160

Constantine (Algeria), 247 _et seq._
Arab town, 257
cathedral, 257
Corniche Road, 249
Djamaa-el-Kebir, 256
gorges of the Rummel, 248 _et seq._
history, 250 _et seq._
Hôtel Transatlantique, 259
Jews of, 258-9
_kasbah_, 256
museum, 257
palace of Ahmed Pasha, 255-256
Place de la Brèche, 258
_souks_, 258

Coppolani, French explorer, 166

Cork industry, 452

Corsairs, Algerine, 255, 269, 284 _et seq._
Moorish, 417 _et seq._
Tunisian, 42-43

Cucumbers, 119

Daia (Algeria), 323

Dakar (Senegal), 184

Damrémont, General, 253

Darfur (Sudan), 174

Dates, 155-156

Daugan, General, 359

d’Aumale, Duc, 296

de Brazza, Savargnan, 160, 166

Decatur, Stephen, 291

de Chambrun, General Vicomte, 388

Defoe, Daniel, 289

de Foucauld, Vicomte Charles, 167 _et seq._

Delattre, Father, 95

de Lesseps, Ferdinand, 152

de l’Isle, Brière, 166

Denison, Miss Sophie, 385, 394, 443

de Trémaudan, Vicomte Louis, 448

Dido, 17, 24, 56

Divorce in Morocco, 443-444

Djebel Amur, 215

Djebel Saghru, 454

Djebel Zaghouan, 102, 104

Djelfa (Algeria), 219

Djerba, island of, 122, 135 _et seq._
character of, 137 _et seq._
costumes, 139
Hara Srira, 139-140
Houmt-Souk, 140 _et seq._
inhabitants, 138
Jews in, 139-140
Skull Fort, 141
synagogue, 139-140
wild flowers, 138

Djerid, Tunisian, 149, 154

Djidjelli (Algeria), 266

Djorf (Tunisia), 142

Djurjura Mountains, 249, 264, 269, 273

Dodds, General, 166

Donatists, 243, 251

Douls, Camille, 166

Dourneaux Duperré, 166

Dra’a, river, 365

Dragut, corsair chief, 114, 141

Dunes, sand, 174 _et seq._, 186 _et seq._

Dutch bombard Algiers, 291

Duveyrier, Henri, 166

Eaton, William, 290

Edward VII, King, 349

El Araish (Morocco), 366

El Bahira, lake of, 19, 44, 83

El Beloui, “the Barber,” 110-111

El Biar (Algeria), 298-299

El Djem (Tunisia), 115 _et seq._, 126

El Eubbad (Algeria), 333

El Glaoui, khalifa of Marrákesh, 362, 446

El Golea, oasis of, 160, 174

El Hamma (Tunisia), 144 _et seq._

El Hiba, Moorish pretender, 357

El Juf, oasis of, 163

El Kahena, Berber chieftainess, 117, 125

El Kantara (Algeria), 222, 240-241

El Kantara (Tunisia), 136

El Oued (Tunisia), 194

El Roghi, Moorish pretender, 385

En-Nasr, Berber ruler, 268

Ennedi Mountains, 174

Entente Cordiale, 349

Eschmoun, god of the Carthaginians, 59

Es Sueira (Morocco), 432

Exmouth, Lord, 291

Faidherbe, General, 166

Falconry, 200

Fan, dey of Algiers slaps French consul with, 293

Fatimite wars, 155

Felicitas, St., martyrdom of, 79, 90

Ferdinand V, king of Spain, 269

Ferryville (Tunisia), 15

Fez (Morocco), 380 _et seq._
climate, 390
Companions of the Sick, 389-390
drainage system, 380
Great Prayer, 396 _et seq._
history, 381
hotels, 382
Karueein Mosque, 383
leather-work, 387
massacre of, 355
mederseh, 383
military camp, 395
Mulai Idris, mosque of, 384
museum, 384-385
palace of Bou Djeloud, 390
Palais Jamaï, 382
population, 381
situation, 380
_souks_, 386 _et seq._
Treaty of, 355
Ville Moderne, 395
women, 390 _et seq._

Fezzes, manufacture of, 381

Filali dynasty, 347

Flaminius, Roman consul, 67

Flatters, Colonel, 166

Foreign Legion, 162, 323 _et seq._, 336 _et seq._

Fort National (Algeria), 273-274

Foum-es-Sahara; see El Kantara (Algeria)

Foureau, Fernand, 161-162, 166

French policy, Algeria, 311 _et seq._
Morocco, 349 _et seq._
Tunisia, 26-7, 49, 312 _et seq._

Gabés (Tunisia), 117, 122, 136, 152

Gabés, gulf of, 112, 119, 121, 151

Gafsa (Tunisia), 156

Galleys, Carthaginian, 61 _et seq._
corsair, 287

Gallifet, General, 160

Gambetta, French statesman, 94

“Garden of Allah,” 222

Garden of the Hesperides, 366

Gazelle hunting in the Sahara, 200

Gelaa Matmata (Tunisia), 125-126

Genseric, 79, 215

German colonies in Africa mandated to France, 164

German policy in Morocco, 349 _et seq._

Ghadames (Sahara), 166

Gharbi, island of (Tunisia), 121

Ghardaia (Algeria), 156, 212 _et seq._

_Ghars_ of Matmata, 127 _et seq._

Ghiata Mountains (Morocco), 378

Gibraltar, 370-371

Goletta; see La Goulette

Gordian, Emperor, 116

Goths in North Africa, 79

Goundafi, Grand Caïd of the Sus, 363, 456

Goundafi, pass of (Morocco), 454

Gouraud, General, 356

Grand Caïds, 445

Grand Erg Occidental, 173-174

Grand Erg Oriental, 173-174, 179 _et seq._

Grande Mademoiselle, 403 _et seq._

Great Prayer near Fez, 396 _et seq._

Greeks in North Africa, 80

Guemar, oasis of (Algerian Sahara), 197

Guinea, French, 160

Guraya, Mount (Algeria), 267

Hadrian, Emperor, 87, 105, 316

Hadrumetum, 56, 113

Haedo, Spanish historian, 302

Hafsides, dynasty of, 268

Háhá, province of (Morocco), 432

Hamadchas, sect of, 406

Hamilcar, 61, 63, 65 _et seq._

Hammamet, gulf of, 112

Hamman Meskoutine (Algeria), 260 _et seq._

Hammon, god of Carthaginians, 59-60

Hannibal, 63 _et seq._, 121

Hanno, 63-64

Hara Srira (Djerba), 139-140

Hasdrubal, 65, 77

Hasdrubal Giscon, 68

Hassan, Arab conqueror, 80, 85

Hassan, Sultan, 348

Hassan Tower at Rabat, 408

Hatchet, defile of the (Tunisia), 65

Hercules, Pillars of, 18

Herodotus, 123

Hesperides, Gardens of the, 56

Hichens, Robert, 226

Hippo Zarytus, 56

Hoggar Plateau (Sahara), 173

Hohenzollern, William, 350

Homer’s description of Djerba, 137, 142

Horace, 103

Horses, Barb, 405

Houmt-Souk (Djerba), 136, 140 _et seq._

Hounds, Saluki, 200

Hussein Pasha, dey of Algiers, 292 _et seq._

Iarbas, King, 56

Icosium, 283

Idráren Dráren Mountains, 453

Idris, Mulai, 345, 381

Idris II, Mulai, 345

Idrisi dynasty, 346 _et seq._

Ifni, Spanish colony of, 364-365

Igidi (Sahara), 173-174

Imperial Road to Tafilalt, 378

Innaouene, river, 379

In Salah, oasis of, 168

Isly, Battle of, 297

Isly, Duke of, 296

Italian interests in Tunisia, 14

Italian policy in Morocco, 371 _et seq._

Ivory Coast, 160, 184

Jabir, Moorish architect, 436

Jackson, James, English traveler, 405

Jarabub (Tripolitania), 198

Jason and the Argonauts, 136, 150-151

Jewelry, Kabyle, 276

Jews, Algeria, 258-259, 316
Morocco, 342
Tunisia, 53

Jol, 309

Joubert, French explorer, 166

Juba I, king of Mauretania, 103

Juba II, king of Mauretania, 309

Jugurtha, 251

Julia Cæsarea, 309

Jusserand, Jean Jules, 27

Justinian, Emperor, 80

Kabyles, 270 _et seq._

Kabylia, Grand, 11, 263 _et seq._

Kabylia, Lesser, 269

Kabylia, rebellion, 297

Kairouan (Tunisia), 49, 80, 100 _et seq._
carpets, 36, 111
Djamaa Amor Abbada (Mosque of the Saber), 109
Djamaa Sidi Okba, 105, 107
Djamaa Sidi Sahab (Mosque of the Barber), 110
El Beloui, tomb of, 111
history of, 106 _et seq._
hotel, 107

Kasbah Tadla (Morocco), 430

_Kasbahs_ in the High Atlas, 456-457

Kayes (Senegal), 184

Kedija, Mount, 274

Kef (Tunisia), 103

Key of David, 132

Khair-ed-Din, corsair chief, 252, 284 _et seq._

Kherrata (Algeria), 264

Koceila, Berber chief, 117

Kolea (Algeria), 308

Ksar-er-Rabit in Sousse, 115

Kubr-er-Rumia (Tomb of the Christian Woman), 308

Laghouat (Algeria), 159, 219

La Goulette (Tunisia), 19 _et seq._, 44, 80

Lalla Maghnia (Algeria), 313, 374

La Marsa (Tunisia), 44

Lambessa (Algeria), 241

Lamoricière, General, 297

Lamy, Lieutenant, French explorer, 166

Larache (Morocco), 366

Largeau, Victor, French explorer, 166

Laroussi, Si Sayah, Grand Marabout of the Tidjania, 199

Lavigerie, Cardinal, 94-95, 220-221

Leather-work, Fez, 387
Marrákesh, 437
Tunis, 38-39

Légion Etrangère, 323 _et seq._, 336 _et seq._

Lella Setta Hills (Algeria), 329

Leptis (Tripolitania), 70

Libya, 58, 133, 151

Libyan Desert, 175

Lipara, Battle of, 62

London, Declaration of, 349-350

_Lotophagi_ (Lotus-Eaters), 141

Lotus, quest of, 141 _et seq._

Louis IX, king of France, 80, 94

Louis XIII, king of France, 403

Louis XIV, king of France, 404

Lyautey, Marshal, 168, 355, 357

Maclean, Caïd Sir Harry, English soldier of fortune, 352

Macta, Battle of the, 295

Madrid, Treaty of, 363

Magellan, Ferdinand, 431

Maghreb-el-Aska, 339

Mahomet XVI, Sultan, 347

Ma’mora, forest of (Morocco), 452

Mansoura, ruins of, 334

Marabouts, 115, 147, 197 _et seq._

Marchand, Major, French explorer, 178

Marinides, dynasty of, 346

Mark Antony, 369

Marrákesh (Morocco), 434 _et seq._
Aguedal, 444
Aguenaou Gate, 444
architecture, 435
Bled el Hamra, 434
climate, 444
hotels, 435-436
Kutubia Tower, 435-436
leather-work, 437
mosque of Abd-el-Mumin, 436
Sinners’ Concourse, 436
_souks_, 437
visit to sultan, 447 _et seq._
Marseilles, 7, 11 _et seq._

Martel, Charles, “Hammer of God,” 345

Mascara (Algeria), 323

Masinissa, king of Numidia, 65, 69, 248, 251, 309

Matmata Plateau (Tunisia), 121, 123 _et seq._

Mauretania, 163, 167, 173, 344

Mazagan (Morocco), 431-432

M’Donnell, Ida, escape, 291

Medenine (Tunisia), 121, 130 _et seq._

Medjerda, river, 117

Medrassen (Algeria), 245

Megara, 78, 84

Meggarine, Battle of, 159

_Méharistes_, 154, 201

Mekinez; see Mequinez

Melilla (Spanish Morocco), 365

Meninx, 137

Mequinez (Morocco), 400 _et seq._
Aïssa, tomb of, 402
Bab Bardain, 401
hotel, 401
Mansour Gate, 401
palace of Mulai Ismail, 402 _et seq._
school for princes, military, 405
school of native arts, 402
stables of Mulai Ismail, 404

Mercenaries, War of, 64, 103

Mers-el-Kebir (Algeria), 320

Metabia, Arab tribe, 215

Metaloui (Tunisia), 156

Metameur (Tunisia), 134

Michelet (Algeria), 274

Michigan, University of, excavations at Carthage, 99

Micipisa, 251

Miknasa, dynasty of the, 346

Mjerda River, 313

Mogador (Morocco), 432

Montpensier, Duchesse de, 403 _et seq._

Morocco
Abd-el-Krim, 367 _et seq._
airplane services, 430
British policy, 348 _et seq._, 370 _et seq._
capitals, 400
climate, 9, 453
conquest by the French, 163-164, 314
divorce, 443-444
forests, 452
French policy, 349 _et seq._, 414, 416, 446-447
German policy, 349, 358
government, 312, 359 _et seq._
Grand Caïds, 357 _et seq._, 362
history, 339 _et seq._
inhabitants, 340 _et seq._
Italian policy, 371 _et seq._
Jews, 342
military forces, French, 445
Moors, 343 _et seq._
Moroccan troops in Great War, 359
polygamy, 441
population, 343-344, 446
protectorate declared by France, 355
railways, 376-377, 430
Riff, 353, 355 _et seq._, 364
roads, 306, 377-378
slavery, 437 _et seq._
Spanish policy, 349 _et seq._
Spanish zone, 363 _et seq._
steamer communication, 430
Sultan Mulai Yusef, 356, 361, 414 _et seq._
Tangier, 364 _et seq._
topography, 453-454
wild flowers, 451-452
women, position, 440 _et seq._

Motoring, Algeria, 307 _et seq._
Morocco, 306, 377-378
Sahara, 156 _et seq._
Tunisia, 117, 124

Mozabites, 212 _et seq._

Mtouggui, khalifa of High Atlas, 300

Mulai Hafid, Sultan, 353

Mulai Idris (Morocco), 405

Mulai Ismail, Sultan, 402 _et seq._

Mulai Yusef, Sultan, 163, 356, 414 _et seq._, 447 _et seq._

Murabti, dynasty of, 346

Mussolini, Benito, 371

Mustapha Inférieur, 274

Mustapha Supérieur, 298

Neal, Admiral Sir Harry, 292

Nefta, oasis of, 193-194

New Carthage (Cartagena), 66

Oases, Saharan, 154

Okba ibn Nafi, Sidi, 106 _et seq._, 229-230

Omar, Arab khalif, 106

Oran (Algeria), 318 _et seq._

Othman ibn Affan, 106

Oued Biskra, 222

Oued Rir, revolt, 159, 204

Ouergha, valley of (Morocco), 368

Oujda (Morocco), 352, 374

Ouled-Naïl, dancing-girls of, 230 _et seq._

Ouled-Naïl Mountains, 219

Ourgla (or Wargla), oasis of, 156, 159, 213

Outih, 56

Ovid, 91

Palet, Lieutenant, French explorer, 166

Payne, John Howard, author of “Home, Sweet Home,” 55

Penon, at Algiers, 285-286

Perdicaris, Ion, kidnapping, 348

_Pères Blancs_, 221

Perfume-sellers of Tunis, 33 _et seq._

Perpetua, St., martyrdom, 79, 90

Perrégaux, General, 253

Pétain, Marshal, 368

Phenicians, 56 _et seq._

_Philadelphia_, U.S.S., in war with Barbary corsairs, 291

Philip II, king of Spain, 365

Philippeville (Algeria), 260

Piali Pasha, 141

Pillars of Hercules, 366

Polygamy in Morocco, 441

Pomaria, 330

Portuguese in Morocco, 431, 457

Preble, Commodore, 291

Ptolemy, 155

Punic Wars, 61 _et seq._

Quintus Fabius Maximus, 67

Quiza, 319

Rabat (Morocco), 408 _et seq._
Blue Gardens, 410
Borj-el-Hassan (Hassan Tower), 408
modern city, 412
museum, 409
palace of Sultan Yakoub, 409
school of native arts, 409
_souks_, 411

Railways, Algeria, 306
Morocco, 376-377, 430
Sahara, 184-185
Tunisia, 155-156

Raisuli, Moroccan bandit, 348, 352

Ramadan, observance, 44-45, 206

Redemptionists, order of, 289

Regulus, Marcus Attilius, 17, 63

Renault, Louis, automobile manufacturer, 183

Renault twelve-wheel cars in Sahara, 156, 179 _et seq._

Rhodes, Cecil, 221

_Rhorfa_ of Medenine, 131 _et seq._

Riff (Morocco), 353, 364 _et seq._

Rio de Oro, Spanish colony, 365

Roads, Algeria, 305 _et seq._
Morocco, 377-378
Tunisia, 117-118

Romans, Algeria, 241 _et seq._, 265, 268
Tunisia, 60 _et seq._, 115 _et seq._, 144, 155

Roosevelt, Theodore, 348, 351

Roudaire, Colonel François, 152

Routes to North Africa, 7-8

Rovers, Sallee, 409, 417 _et seq._

Rummel, gorges of, at Constantine, 249-250

Saddlery of Tunis, 38-39

Saffron Islands, or Zaffarines (Morocco), 366

Safi (Morocco), 432

Sahara, 195 _et seq._
agriculture, 196-197
Algerian, 311-312
area, 171
climate, 9, 195-196
color, 190
conquest, 158 _et seq._
date cultivation, 155-156
oases, 154, 176 _et seq._
railways proposed, 184-185
scheme for flooding, 152
topography, 172
trade routes, 193
Tunisian, 149
wells, 176 _et seq._

Sahel, Algerian, 279
Tunisian, 113, 115, 117

St. Gerónimo, buried alive, 301 _et seq._

St. Louis, death on last Crusade, 17

St. Vincent de Paul, captured by corsairs, 43

Salah Reis, corsair chief, 269, 309

“Salammbô,” Flaubert’s, 64, 103

Salé (Morocco), 409, 417

Salisbury, Lord, 161

Sallee Rovers, 409

Saluki gazelle-hounds, 200

Sand-storms, 191 _et seq._

Santa Cruz de Berbería (Morocco), 457

Say (French Sudan), 161

Say, Louis, French explorer, 166

Sbeitla, Battle of, 110

Scipio Africanus, 17, 68 _et seq._, 74 _et seq._

Sebkha-en-Rouan, 83

Sebkhet-es-Sedjoumi, 19, 44

Selene, Princess, daughter of Cleopatra, 309

Selim, Sultan, 252, 285

Selkirk, Alexander, 289

Sempronius Gracchus, 121

Senegambia (French West Africa), 160

Senussi, 198

Septimius Severus, 247

Setif (Algeria), 264

Shat-el-Djerid, 152, 155

Shat-el-Fejej, 152

Shat Gharsa, 152, 155

Shat Melrir, 152, 222

Shats, 149 _et seq._, 153 _et seq._

Sidi Abdallah (Tunisia), 15

Sidi-bel-Abbès (Algeria), 323 _et seq._

Sidi Bou Medine, 333

Sidi-Brahim, Battle of, 297

Sidi-Ferruch (Algeria), 293

Sidi M’godol, 433

Sidi Okba (Algeria), 229

Sidi Okba; see Okba ibn Nafi

Sidi Salah (Tunisia), 120

Skull Fort in Djerba, 141

Slave-trade, 214, 437-438

Slaves in Barbary, Christian, 288 _et seq._

Solomon, Byzantine, general, 243

Somaliland, French, 164

Sophonisba, 68

Sousse (Tunisia), 56, 107, 113 _et seq._

Spain invaded by Carthaginians, 65 _et seq._

Spanish policy in Morocco, 349 _et seq._

Spanish rule in North Africa, 140, 252, 269, 284 _et seq._, 320-321,
343, 353, 363 _et seq._

Staoueli, Battle of, 293

Staoueli wine made by Trappist monks, 318

Steeg, Théodore, French resident-general in Morocco, 360

Stone Age, relics, in Morocco, 344

Sudan, French, 161

Suleiman the Magnificent, Sultan, 286

Sus (Morocco), 451 _et seq._, 455 _et seq._

Susi, characteristics, 455-456

Syphax, king of the Massæsylians, 68-69, 251

Syracuse to Tripoli, route, 8

Syrtes, 123, 150-151

Tababort, Mount, 267

Tabarca (Tunisia), 79

Tacape, 122

Tafilalt (Morocco), 378

Tafna, Treaty of, 295, 331

Tamanrasset (Sahara), 168

Tangier (Morocco), 364 _et seq._, 372, 419 _et seq._

Tanguin, Battle of, 296

Tanith, Carthaginian, goddess, 18, 59-60, 89

Taourirt (Morocco), 379

Taparura, 119

Tarik, Berber general, 345

Tarundant (Morocco), 454-455

Tasili Plateau, 173

Taza (Morocco), 378-379

Tchad, Lake, 166, 178, 184, 193

Tebessa, 241

Tell, Algerian, 238

Tell, Tunisian, 112

Temacin (Algeria), 207

Tenes (Algeria), 310-311

Tensift River (Morocco), 435

Tertullian, 90

Tetuan (Spanish-Morocco), 366

Thamugas, 242 _et seq._

Thapsus, Battle of, 78, 103

Thines, 24

Thysdrus, 115 _et seq._

Tibesti Plateau (Sahara), 174

Tidikelt, oasis of, 154, 166

Tidjania (Algerian Sahara), 199

Timbuktu (French Sudan), 154, 161, 167, 169, 178, 184, 193, 208

Timgad, 241 _et seq._
arch of Trajan, 245
baths, 245
forum, 244
library, 244-245

Timhadit (Morocco), 378

Tinzar, Mount (Morocco), 453

Tisouros, 155

Tizi-Ouzou (Algeria), 273

Tlemcen (Algeria), 329 _et seq._

Togoland (West Africa), 164, 352

Tomb of Christian Woman, 308

Touareg, 161 _et seq._, 168 _et seq._, 177, 201

Trade routes across Sahara, 207-208

Trajan, Emperor, 114

Transat; see Compagnie Générale Transatlantique

Trinitarians, order of, 289

Tripoli, American naval demonstration, 291

Tripolitania, 8, 106

Triton, sea-god, 150

Tritonis, Lake, 150

Troglodytes of Southern Tunisia, 123 _et seq._

Tuat, oasis of, 154

Tummo Mountains, 174

Tunis, 20 _et seq._
Alaoui Museum, 47 _et seq._
aqueduct, Roman, 44, 87
arrival at, 20 _et seq._
Bab Cartagena, 55
Bab-el-Bahar, 28
Bab Souika, 40, 52
barbers, 40-41
Bardo, palace of, 45 _et seq._
Belvedere, park of, 44
bey of, 44, 48, 51-52
Bou-Kornein, peaks of, 44 _et seq._
cemetery, Jewish, 54-55
cemetery of St. George, 55
_chéchias_, manufacture, 40
Dar-el-Bey, palace of, 43-44
Djamaa-es-Zeitouna, 50
Djamaa Sidi Mahrez, 52
executions, 45
hats, 39
Jewesses, 53 _et seq._
_kasbah_, 42-43
leather goods, 38
loot of Carthage, 32
Medina, 28
mosaics, ancient, 49
mosques, 50 _et seq._
Night of the Prophet, 51
Payne, John Howard, author of “Home, Sweet Home,” 55
perfume-sellers, 33 _et seq._
Porte de France, 42
porters, 29
Ramadan, observance, 44-45
routes, 8
saddlery, 38-39
slippers, 40
Souk des Etoffes, 36
Souk-el-Attarin, 33
Souk-el-Blagdjia, 40
_souks_, 30 _et seq._, 51
women, 52

Tunisia, 102 _et seq._
agriculture, 103-104, 112
area, 111 _et seq._
character of country, 102, 111 _et seq._
conquest, 314
declaration of French protectorate, 160
Djerid, 149, 154
French policy, 26-27, 49, 311 _et seq._
government, 312
hot springs, 146
olive culture, 113, 120
railways, 155-156
roads, 117-118
Roman remains, 115
Sahara, Tunisian, 149, 155
Sahel, 113, 115
Shats, 149 _et seq._
sponge-fishing, 119, 121, 138
Tell, 112
topography, 112

Turks in Algeria, 284 _et seq._, 331

Tussid, Mount, 174

Ulric, Admiral, 291

Ulysses, 136, 142

Um-er-Rabi’a, Moroccan river, 431

United States at war with corsairs, 291

Utica, 56, 69, 72

Vagas, Martin, Spanish commander, 285

Valée, Marshal, 253, 296

Van de Capellen, Admiral, 291

Vandals in Africa, 79, 87, 114, 243, 330, 344

Vienna Congress, 291

Villa Cisneros (Rio de Oro), 365

Volubilis, 344, 401, 404, 407-408

Von Bülow, German chancellor, 351

Wadai (French Equatorial Africa), 174

Wad Fas (Morocco), 380

Wadi Martil (Morocco), 366

Wadi M’zab (Algerian Sahara), 214

Wahabis in Djerba, 139

War Mountains, 174

Wargla; see Ourgla

Wattasi dynasty, 347

Weapons, Tunis, 37
Marrákesh, 437-438

White Fathers, order of, 86, 94-95, 221

Wild flowers, Djerba, 138
Morocco, 451-452

Women, Algiers, 282
Djerba, 139
El Hamma, 147
Fez, 390 _et seq._
Marrákesh, 440 _et seq._
Tunis, 52

Xanthippus, 17, 63

Yakoub, Sultan, 334, 408

Yarmorasen, Sultan, 330, 332

Yazid, Sultan, 347

Yusuf ibn Tashfin, Sultan, 434

Zab, 222

Zaffarines (Spanish Morocco), 366

Zaghouan (Tunisia), 87, 104

Zama, Battle of, 70

Zarzis (Tunisia), 136

Zenata Berbers, 330

Ziban (Algeria), 222

Zinder (Niger Territory), 161, 166, 193

Zouaves, 279

Zuara (Tripolitania), 8