Chapter II

FROM the short sketch of the ancient history of Cyrene given in the last chapter, the reader will be at no loss to discover the reasons which led us to undertake an expedition, for the purpose of examining the ruins of that distinguished city. The simple fact of its having been the capital of a flourishing Greek colony, afforded presumptive evidence of the existence of interesting and valuable remains; and the absence of any stationary population on its site, after the date of the Arab conquest, favoured the hope that such remains would be found in a comparatively perfect condition.

In many places, such as Athens, Rome, Halicarnassus, Rhodes, &c., the great obstacle to the recovery of the objects of ancient art, that lie buried among the ruins, is the occupation of the sites by modern towns. Where such occupation has been uninterrupted, the probability of the existence of extensive remains is, moreover, greatly diminished; inasmuch as the successive generations of inhabitants have not unfrequently made use of the materials of the ancient city in the construction of their own buildings, and wantonly destroyed the statues and other sculptures, as relics of Pagan idolatry.

In the case of Cyrene, however, it was almost certain that the site of the city had been unoccupied for upwards of 1,000 years; so that it was highly probable that whatever sculptures and other remains had escaped destruction at the hands of the early Christians and first Arab conquerors, must soon have been hid from view by a luxuriant vegetation, and, except in the most elevated situations, become gradually buried beneath the surface of the soil. From such considerations it was to be concluded, _à priori_, that many remains of the ancient Cyrene were still in existence,—a conclusion confirmed by the testimony of all the travellers who had visited the actual site.

Although there were thus sufficient grounds for regarding Cyrene as a good field for excavation, there were circumstances peculiar to its position and the present condition of the country, which made it very doubtful whether such excavations could be carried on successfully. One great obstacle lay in the fact of its inland position in a mountainous country, from which it was to be feared that heavy and fragile objects, such as marble statues, could not be conveyed to the coast for embarkation, except at excessive cost of time, labour, and money. Another no less important consideration was the character of the present inhabitants of the country, the Bedouins, a fanatical race of wandering Arabs, proverbial for their rapacity and violence. Moreover, Cyrene could only be reached by a long land journey from Benghazi, or Derna, the only places on the coast at which the caravan required for such a journey could be procured; and also the only places in the country where the authority of the Turkish Government was more than a name.

Before fitting out a regular expedition for the purpose of excavating, it was therefore advisable to gain sufficient information to form a proximate estimate of the cost and chances of success of such an undertaking; and this could only be obtained by an actual visit to Cyrene, and a careful examination of the country between the city and the coast. It struck me, when stationed at Malta, after the close of the expedition to Halicarnassus and Cnidus, in which I had been associated with Mr. C. T. Newton, that a reconnoitring excursion might be made to the Cyrenaica at little or no expense to the Government; the only absolute necessaries for its accomplishment being the use of a small vessel for, at most, two or three months, the sanction of the Foreign Office, and leave of absence from military duty. At that time (the spring of 1860) there was a small sailing schooner lying in Malta harbour, called the _Kertch_, which, I thought, would answer the purpose admirably. A few men from H.M.S. _Hibernia_, to which she was a tender, would be a large enough crew; and being only a sailing vessel, she would cost nothing in fuel. I talked over the project with Commander Porcher, then Lieutenant of the _Hibernia_, who at once expressed his willingness to join me in the undertaking.

Our proposal was to visit the Cyrenaica at our own expense, for the purpose of examining the country with a view to a subsequent _working_ expedition, provided the Foreign Office sanctioned the proceeding, and the Admiralty allowed the _Kertch_ to be placed for a short time at our disposal. We thought it desirable to have some such vessel, not only to take us to the coast of Barbary, but to remain there while we made our journeys inland. She would thereby serve as a “base of operations,” and would be of special use in the event, which was not unlikely, of our being obliged, by the hostility of the Arabs, to beat a hasty retreat.

This proposal I submitted to Sir John Burgoyne, Inspector-General of Engineers, and to Mr. Newton, by both of whom it was cordially approved of. On their joint recommendation, Lord Russell kindly sanctioned the project, applied to the Admiralty for the means of carrying it into execution, and furnished us with letters of recommendation to her Majesty’s agents in Barbary, and a Firman which he had obtained in our favour from the Turkish Government. In reply to Lord Russell’s application, the Admiralty stated, that as the _Kertch_ was urgently required for other services, she could not be given in the way we had suggested; but, if his Lordship wished it, that orders would be given to provide us with a passage as soon as possible to the coast of the Cyrenaica. This offer being accepted, orders were immediately sent to Admiral Sir William Martin, Commander-in-Chief of the Mediterranean fleet, to send us to Benghazi, or such other place as we preferred, as soon as there was a vessel available for that purpose. We were at the same time informed that H.R.H. the Duke of Cambridge, and the Duke of Somerset, First Lord of the Admiralty, had been pleased to grant us leave of absence for an indefinite period.

The want of a vessel like the _Kertch_, to remain with us during our excursion, caused, of course, a considerable modification of our plans. Instead of having our supplies and the means of retreat more or less at our own disposal, we should be obliged, by the new arrangement, simply to take our chance among the Arabs, and get on in the best way we could, the expense at the same time being greatly increased. We were thankful, however, for what we had got, and began at once to make the necessary preparations for the expedition.

On account of the want of harbours on the coast of the Cyrenaica, our original intention was to have started in July, and to have returned to Malta before the winter. Considerable delay, however, took place before a vessel could be had, and it was already winter when everything was ready for our departure.

It is always difficult to know what to take on a long journey in an uncivilized country. One is apt to forget a number of things that are really useful and even indispensable, and perhaps still more so, to take a great many that are afterwards only in the way. For the benefit of future travellers, therefore, we give the following list of our outfit, in which, fortunately, we found little that was either superfluous or deficient.

_Materials, &c._—Two double circular tents complete with storm guys and pegs; two small portable wooden trestle bedsteads, made to roll up and be carried in waterproof bags; two field-hospital cork mattresses (rolling up), two pillows, four blankets, and two rugs, all carried in two waterproof bags; two iron folding chairs; cooking apparatus, consisting of a large saucepan, a kettle, a gridiron, and tea and coffee pots; a few knives, forks, and spoons, and some tin dishes, plates, and cups; a lantern (talc), and a large supply of candles and lucifer matches; a few simple medicines, some lint, sticking plaster, an axe, two small hatchets, two saws, six spades and pickaxes, a crowbar, a coil of 1½-inch rope, a ball of whipcord, a hammer, and some nails.

_Provisions._—Two bags of ship’s biscuit, a bag of rice, a large supply of tea, coffee, sugar, and salt, packed in tin boxes; two dozen tins of preserved meats to be used on emergencies only; two small cheeses; some spices, such as mustard, pepper, and curry-powder; two dozen of brandy.

Besides the above,—guns and revolvers, and a good stock of ammunition; English saddles, bridles, &c.; personal luggage, such as clothes, books, instruments, &c., as little as possible.