Chapter X (5)

A NICE time we should have of it, in the spring and fall, if some ingenious "Singer" would invent a machine that would cut and fit our own and our children's dresses. With the aid of Godey's "How to Make a Dress," the agony of weeks would be over in a few days, and wardrobes and closets have their full supply of dresses, jackets, and aprons. In the absence of this useful domestic aid, several parties have done their best to simplify the process of measuring and fitting that every one dreads to go through with, whether they stand up to it themselves or exhaust entreaties and commands to make the younger members of the flock "keep still" under the trying ordeal of pins and scissors.

Among the best of these methods, the simplest and most expeditious that we have seen are the dress charts of Madame Demorest, to whose establishment we have made frequent allusion, for ladies and children. Three measures only are taken, the pencil, chart, and paper put in requisition, and the thing is done. Madame D. evidently "keeps a poet," from the verses which we find on the back of her circular. Listen to "the consummation devoutly to be wished for" by all who dread fall and spring dressmaking:--

"Dressmakers made artists by this magical chart,
All flee from the old tedious and wearisome art;
A pleasure succeeds to what once was a task,
As they fashion the jacket, the bodice, and basque.
Each lady with skill now may cut her own dresses,
When she once the Excelsior Dress Model possesses;
Of good taste and model she only asks aid,
And a beautiful garment is speedily made.

"While sitting content in her snug sewing-chair,
We see the fond mother the dresses prepare.
She calls up her children and fits them so neatly
By the children's dress chart that has charmed her completely."

Even the old lady "that lived in a shoe" would find her way out of the difficulties in which she is historically enveloped, by the aid of this magic chart, if it effects half that is promised for it.

ORNAMENTS.

AS many of our lady readers know, there is generally a rage for some one stone, or style of setting, in jewelry. We do not speak of costly sets, as pearl or diamonds, but of those accessible to ordinary purchasers.

The topaz had its day, and was succeeded by turquoise; for a time every one, without regard to complexion, wore brooch and ear-rings of cerulean blue. Then garnets; then enamel of blue or green; and now, with a proper mixture of pearl, garnet and enamel, turquoise being entirely out of date, coral ornaments seem to be the favorites.

We mentioned, in a late number, the costly sets found at Ball & Black's, imitating flowers and fruit. When last coral was in vogue, the carvings were more in the style of cameo cuttings, as figures, heads, etc., in medallion, and of the dark red hue generally seen in the necklaces of infants. White and rose color are now the favorite shades. There are many new designs in setting; a branch highly polished, for instance, encircled in coils of gold; a single blossom or fruit, as a pear or a fuchsia, set in the same way, and forming the centre of the pin, or the drop of the ear-ring. A very pretty brooch--we speak now of simple ornaments--in this style costs from seven to twelve dollars.

Garnets are sometimes set on a glowing red or crimson ground, which gives them a singular flashing, vivid color. One of the favorite designs is in imitation of the section of a branch or stem of a tree, encrusted with gold and garnets. These are, of course, large and showy brooches. We have seen a few encrusted with turquoise in the same style. Enamelled ornaments are still worn, but are not so much the rage as for a few years past. For mourning brooches, see the fashion article of the present month.

Pearls are still in high favor with those whose purses and whose complexions can afford them.

THE NURSERY-BASKET.

IT is as well to mention in our chat the reason of the unavoidable delay of the promised volume on nursery matters, announced some three months since. Its design and scope were altered when the illustrations and much of the text were prepared, which has delayed its appearance. It is, however, now nearly ready, and will be forwarded as early as possible to the numerous subscribers who have sent us their orders. They will scarcely regret the delay, when the volume in its present form reaches them. If, however, there are any who are tired of waiting "for the play to commence," they can have the price of tickets refunded at the office--or, to speak plainly, we will willingly return any moneys received in advance, if any desire it, by sending post-office stamps to the amount. However, our readers need not fear that their claims will be forgotten as soon as the book is ready. It will be found simple, practical, and reliable in its various directions for the preparation of an infant's wardrobe, short clothes, flannels, etc. etc.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

WOOD-CUTTING is not so difficult as our correspondent, "L.," seems to imagine, and seems to us especially adapted to be an employment for females. It has been taught successfully in the Philadelphia School of Design. She is right in thinking it the first established. A history of its commencement and progress has been already given in the "Lady's Book." The designs for wood-cutting are drawn on the block, usually of pear-tree wood, made as smooth as satin letter-paper. The designer is not always, or often the engraver.

"A BOARDER" will find it very convenient to make chintz covers to her trunks, if she has no place to pack them. They are very simple, and effectually disguise travelling boxes, transforming them to ottomans and lounges. She has only to purchase furniture chintz at twelve and a half cents a yard, fit a piece to the top of the trunk, and run a plain flounce the height of the sides around it. This will leave one end seam to be closed. A binding of worsted or cotton braid, some neat dark color, gives a finish to the chintz, and is run on the top seam around the trunk, and down the four corners. This gives it still more the appearance of an ottoman or lounge, as their covers are made in the same way. Many housekeepers have boxes made in this way, to contain silver or bed linen, where closet room is needed.

"MRS. N.," of Rose Hill, Ga.--A lambrequin is the fall or top piece of a curtain; see any of Carryl's advertisements in the "Lady's Book." It is generally of a heavy material, as damask, satin laine, etc., finished with gimp, or cords and tassels. In a summer country house, where heavy curtains are not needed, a lambrequin depending from the cornice gives a finish to lace or muslin draperies. We should advise her to order them.

"MRS. GEO. P."--The appearance of the gum probably was the result of injury from a hard substance, an ivory or wooden plaything, possibly. Some children do not get any teeth before they are a year old, though six months is usually looked upon as the commencement of dentition. In selecting a baby's toys, it is necessary to see that they are not hard enough to hurt the mouth, or rough, so as to scratch and inflame it, as a child naturally tries to bite everything it can lay hands on. Common cheap toys are objectionable, as the paint comes off on the mouth and face. A plain ring of bone or ivory, tied by a broad string of tape or ribbon to a child's waist, will amuse it for hours, and is perfectly safe. Knit dolls are excellent, and the old style "rag baby" is worth a dozen of wax or composition. If a child has a plaything that will be likely to scratch its mouth or put out its eyes, it should be held by the nurse or mother, and never trusted to its powerless little hands.

"THE READING CIRCLE OF E., PA.," will find "Markland," by the author of "Margaret Maitland," and the "Memoir of Mrs. Ware," added to their list. We think the plan an excellent one; and, as the books are to be taken in turn when read through, do not see how any ill feeling can grow out of it. We should advise them to take "Household Words," if they can afford but one English magazine.

"MRS. S."--Flannel will not answer the purpose. A half handkerchief of oiled silk, bound with ribbon or flannel binding. Nursery aprons of gingham or chintz, with an oil-silk lining, are much used.

"A. L. S."--For grafting, we have seen the following highly recommended in a paper read before a State agricultural society: Two-thirds resin to one of common beeswax. It will not melt or run.

"A YOUNG AUTHOR" has need of "good courage." In presenting his MSS. to a publisher, send it by express or post, _prepaid_, with a plain, sensible letter on the subject of the book, and leave it to him or his editor to praise it. Never say "that a partial friend, or friends, advise its publication." If you wish it done, you need offer no excuse; if not, keep it to yourself. Do not expect to make a fortune on your first venture. If you can have it printed free of expense, it is all you ought reasonably to expect. Many are glad to do this. Remember that poems rarely pay for print and binding at the present time, and no young writer can be a finished and original essayist. The essay, above all other forms of composition, needs purity of style, original thought, acute observation, and wide experience.

"MRS. K.," of White Plains.--We would recommend "Kane's Arctic Expedition," and "St. Herndon's Valley of the Amazon;" they are the most popular recent books of travel, and suitable for family reading.

"ALICE" will find we have attended to her request. Cambric sets are still fashionable.

Fashions.

NOTICE TO LADY SUBSCRIBERS.

Having had frequent applications for the purchase of jewelry, millinery, etc., by ladies living at a distance, _the Editress of the Fashion Department_ will hereafter execute commissions for any who may desire it, with the charge of a small percentage for the time and research required. Bridal wardrobes, spring and autumn bonnets, dresses, jewelry, bridal cards, cake-boxes, envelopes, etc. etc., will be chosen with a view to economy, as well as taste; and boxes or packages forwarded by express to any part of the country. For the last, distinct directions must be given.

_Orders, accompanied by checks for the proposed expenditure, to be addressed to the care of L. A. Godey, Esq., who will be responsible for the amount, and the early execution of commissions._

_No order will be attended to unless the money is first received._

Instructions to be as minute as is possible, accompanied by a note of the height, complexion, and general style of the person, on which _much depends_ in choice. Dress goods from Levy's or Stewart's; cloaks, mantillas, or talmas, from Brodie's, 51 Canal Street, New York; bonnets from Miss Wharton's; jewelry from Bailey's or Warden's, Philadelphia, or Tiffany's, New York, if requested.

DESCRIPTION OF FASHIONS FOR JUNE.

_Fig. 1st._--Walking-dress of green taffeta, a skirt and basque. The skirt is made on a band, very full, long, and plain. The basque is close, and much sloped at the hip. It will be noticed that it is very long, approaching the size of the velvet street basques worn last summer. Sleeves demi-long, and flowing, finished with three ruffles, pinked. Large collar of cambric embroidery. Bonnet of drawn taffeta, the same shade as the dress, a light plume at the right. A simple full cap of blonde inside the brim. Rich scarf, oriental style.

_Fig. 2d._--A graceful and serviceable riding-dress, one of the best styles we have had for several seasons, being at once suited to the road and becoming to the figure. The skirt is on a band, or under waist, the ordinary fulness and length. The jacket, with its coat sleeves and rolling collar, fits the figure easily, and rounds over the hips into a short basque. A buff chemisette, in the fashion of a close vest, finished by upright linen collar and small flat necktie. Beaver hat and plume, the crown rather higher than has been worn of late. The material may be either habit cloth, cashmere, or merino. Habit cloth, being heavier, seems more serviceable for the road, and keeps in place better.

CHITCHAT UPON NEW YORK AND PHILADELPHIA FASHIONS FOR JUNE.

This is the favorite month in the year for the display of light and airy styles in our Atlantic cities, the few who have gone to their country houses in advance of the season being replaced by the arrival of Southern and Western belles, refitting at Stewart's, Levy's, Lawson's, Miss Wharton's, and every other fashionable establishment, for the summer campaign at Saratoga and Newport. Every resident has her favorite spring walking-dress, in which to pay her last round of calls, when she leaves her P. P. C., and is "not at home," until autumn comes again, to her dear five hundred friends.

These street dresses are mostly silks, varying from the rich dark poplins and _moir antique_ to the lighter _glacé_ stripes and plaids, or the India foulards, with their close glossy folds. The heavier silks are usually entirely plain in the skirt; even _poult de soie_, the heavy plain-colored silk that comes next to a poplin in richness of effect, has usually only a deep hem at the bottom of the skirt. The basques and sleeves have all the novelties of style and decoration. For these there are new galloons and ribbons appearing daily, matching the silks in shade, or used as a contrast, as taste may dictate. Velvet uncut, plain, and embossed; _moir antique_, richly watered; brocaded and embroidered ribbons, varying from one to three inches in width, are used for these heavier stuffs, which are now nearly out of season.

The lighter silks are in stripes and plaids of infinite variety. Green and violet seem to be the favorite shades. These are made with flounces, usually three, nearly the same width, the top one measuring the same from the top of the skirt. Fringe in alternate stripes, to correspond with the silk, is used where much trimming is desired on the edge of these flounces, or they may be simply bound or pinked. Pinking is used more than of late, and, in every establishment where it is done, there are a great variety of patterns, many of them elaborate. We have seen a very tasteful walking-dress, of violet and white plaid--a "quadrilled" silk, the manufacturer calls it--made with three flounces as above, the basque trimmed with fringe (alternate white and violet, instead of being mixed, as was the style) three inches deep. This was, in turn, headed by violet satin ribbon an inch wide, box-plaited on, and continuing around the front of the corsage. The sleeves were flowing, with three rows of fringe much narrower, but exactly corresponding, also headed by the plaiting, and fastened on the inside by a knot of rich brocaded ribbon with flowing ends. This, of course, had an exceedingly elegant effect, and could only be worn by a tall, full figure. We describe it to show how elaborate and costly the trimming of dresses are made the present season, while the materials, silks, tissues, _barèges_, etc., remain much the same as the past year. Box-plaited ribbons, whether plain, pearl-edged satin, brocaded, or plaided, are much used. It is usual to allow twice and a half the desired length of the trimming in purchasing them. Bows of broader and more expensive ribbon are still used for the sleeves and front of the corsage.

For thin materials, as _barège_, tissues, etc., in all the fanciful names by which they are called, most of which are manufactured by the importers' clerks, there is every variety of trimming in the shape of gauze ribbons. They have usually a coarse thread in the plain edge, by which they can be drawn up into quillings, ruches, and even box-plaitings. So many yards are used in a full trimming, and it is so expensive, never less, and usually more than a quarter of a dollar a yard, that the trimming and making often cost as much, and even more than the original material.

No city dressmaker, with any pretence to a good style, will undertake to make a dress for less than three dollars. In the really fashionable shops, $4 75 is the charge for making a basque waist, apart from the skirt--silk, buttons, all trimmings charged separately in the bill; so that you have from seven to nine, and even fifteen dollars, to add to the cost of your two yards and a half of silk, the quantity usually purchased for a basque.

We have seen no more tasteful bonnets at any establishment than at Genin's bazaar, which, as most of our readers know, has been elegantly fitted up, and so arranged as to be nearly double the original size, thus leaving plenty of room for a large millinery and dressmaking establishment, carrying out more fully the first design of Mr. Genin. The workwomen have two large and cheerful apartments assigned to them, and the show-room adjoining is always thronged. The nursery department has been removed to this more spacious suite, and the space below the dome is now filled by rows of industrious workers, with the silks and muslins they are manufacturing for the juveniles expressly.

Leghorn bonnets are still worn, though in July and August more dress hats of silk, crape, and lace will be seen. The Leghorns are in unusually good shapes, and trimmed very simply, either with straw, marabout plumes, or plain white ribbons. We speak of the prevailing styles; of course, many tastes are to be suited, and some people would flounce a _moir antique_ with the same, if they thought it would look more expensive, and for this class of community ribbons and garlands cannot be too profuse even on a Leghorn, which, if handsome, is generally considered, like a rich silk, to "have no need of ornament." There is a profusion of plain straws of every shape and cost. We notice that they come close, or nearly so, under the chin, and the whole bonnet is a gradual slope from the brim to the crown. They are trimmed in every variety of style, ruches of narrow ribbon box-plaited on, numerous flat bows of ribbon an inch in width disposed as a wreath, etc. etc. Ribbons, as a general thing, are much narrower than the past season, and those long scarf-like strings are not considered in good taste. We have before spoken of the profusion of trimming inside the brim. Blonde caps--a narrow edge of blonde usually sewn upon a broad or wash-blonde lace--are usually almost invariably used to soften the effect of the flowers and ribbon bows that encircle the face. The flowers used are of the most delicate description, made of crape, in strict imitation of nature. Flag flowers, convolvulus, lilac sprays, field violets, and all the more delicate blossoms, are exquisitely reproduced.

FASHION.

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| TRANSCRIBER NOTES: |
| |
| P. 486. 'Novado' changed to 'Novada'. |
| P. 501. 'toffe' changed to 'toffee' |
| P. 506. 'com' changed to 'come'. |
| P. 507. 'mocassin' changed to 'moccasin'. |
| P. 561. 'nna' changed to 'Anna'. |
| Fixed various punctuation. |
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