Chapter I

Bernard’s picture.--Situation of Egypt.--Belzoni
introduced.--Motives for his going into Egypt.--Poor success
of his hydraulic machine.--His thoughts turned towards the
Antiquities of the country.--Difficulty in removing Young
Memnon from Thebes to Cairo.--Belzoni’s visit to a Mummy
cave.--Deceit of the Arabs.

“The last--the very last pyramid! dear Laura,” exclaimed the little Bernard, as he climbed upon his sister’s chair, and surveyed a sketch that she was copying, from one in a large folio volume.

“And now, when you have shaded the side of that pyramid, will you draw the wheel of my cart? I am quite, quite tired of your tombs, and your pillars, and your ruins, and your monuments, falling this way and that way:--I would much rather know how to draw the spokes of the wheels of my little cart:--it is impossible for me to finish my picture;--you see I have made my wagon turning down a shady lane,--it is evening--the lamps are lit on the posts--the moon is peeping behind the trees, and the smoke is rising from the chimnies of my carter’s cottage--but my poor cart has no wheels because I cannot draw spokes--and now, is that tiresome pyramid done, dear Laura?”

“If you knew all that render those pyramids so interesting to Laura, my love,” said Bernard’s mother, “you would not be in such great haste to see them finished; indeed I believe you would willingly give up the pleasure of seeing your own little picture completed, to watch your sister draw hers.”

“Indeed, mother!” exclaimed the lively boy--“where are they, and why do you think that the account of them will amuse me so much?”

“My story is a long one,” replied his mother, “so I will not begin it till after tea, and then we can go on without interruption.”

“Oh, mamma! that will be delightful! quite delightful! for we can have a settled evening; and as to my cart, Laura may put in the spokes to-morrow--the wheels will not signify for one night, will they, mother?” exclaimed Bernard, and, without waiting for an answer, he jumped up, fetched his little straw hat from its hook in the hall, and ran across the lawn to tell Owen and Emily, who were busily engaged training a white clematis round one of the pillars of the alcove. They quickly returned together. Tea was despatched, and the cheerful group repaired to the library. The maps were laid open on the library table. Laura seated herself between her two brothers, and Emily whose blue eyes sparkled with joy, placed herself by the side of her mother.

“And now, why do you think that Laura’s picture would please me so much, mother?” said Bernard; “where are those pyramids?”

“Think for a moment, my dear. Do you not know the name of the country so renowned for these famous mementos of ancient art?--you have often been told.”

Bernard paused--“In Egypt, mother,--in Egypt, an ancient kingdom of Africa.”

“Can you give me any account of Egypt--do you know anything respecting that country?”

Bernard paused again, but Emily looked up wishfully and said,

“May I tell you what I know, mother?” Her mother nodded assent.

“Egypt,” said Emily, “consists of a narrow vale on both sides of the Nile, bounded by ridges of mountains or hills. Nubia is on the south; on the west it joins the great sandy deserts; on the north it is washed by the Mediterranean; and on the east by the Red Sea, except where it is joined to Asia by the narrow neck of land called the Isthmus of Suez.”

“I recollect more about Egypt, now that Emily mentions the Nile,” exclaimed her little brother: “I have often heard of the rushes that grew on the banks of that river--the people used to make their paper of them, and write all their books upon it--all that they wrote--they placed the thin leaves of the stem one over the other, then flattened them, and platted them as Fanny plats her little paper mats; so that one leaf lay one way and another another way, and then they were stuck together with the muddy water of the Nile, and the leaves were dried and pressed with heavy weights--and rubbed and pressed again a great many times.”

“And,” said Owen, “papa has often told us that in Egypt there is very little rain, and that the Nile at certain periods overflows its banks, and carries with its waters a rich mud, which renders the soil fruitful, without that labour which the farmers in England are obliged to bestow, before the fields are fit to receive the grain. In Egypt, they have only to put the seeds into the ground.”

“But if the Nile should not overflow, just when they expected it,” said Bernard, “what would they do then?”

“This sometimes happens,” said Laura, “but you will hear by and by of the means which have been taken to prevent the famine which is generally occasioned by such a calamity, and of the mode which is used to supply the deficiency, if the river do not afford its usual assistance.”

“Well, mamma,” said Owen, “now that we know where Egypt is--now for the pyramids:--whereabouts are they, and for what purpose were they erected?”

“Not so fast, my love. Let us proceed gradually. I have not yet told you that Egypt is divided into Upper, Middle, and Lower; and that it is a country renowned in history, having been once the seat, if not the parent of the sciences. It is not only remarkable for those surprising monuments of antiquity, the famous pyramids, which baffle the researches of the deepest antiquary to fix upon their origin, but also for many other “glorious structures,” astonishing remains of ancient temples, pompous palaces, obelisks, columns, statues, and paintings. Thus is Egypt rendered so interesting; and it is at the present time peculiarly so to us, because a gentleman has lately, with indefatigable zeal, made many researches in that country, and his curious discoveries among the pyramids and temples have excited the public attention in no small degree. He has spent many years in this arduous employment, and is now amply compensated in knowing that they have not been spent in vain.”

“Oh, mamma!” exclaimed Emily, “tell me the name of this gentleman:--why did he go there? Was he fond of antiquities? How did he manage to enter the pyramids? and what did he find in them?”

“I cannot give a reply to so many questions in a breath, my little girl; however, I will answer one of them:--the name of the gentleman I mentioned is BELZONI.”

“A native of England, mamma?”

“No; a native of Padua.”

“Padua, an ancient, large, and celebrated city of Italy,” said Laura, as she pointed to the map.

“Is it all true that you are going to tell us, mother?” said Owen.

“Perfectly true. The account I purpose giving you of Egypt and Nubia is taken from Belzoni’s own Travels, recently published: you may therefore rely on its correctness.

“Unfortunate circumstances falling out in his native country, compelled Belzoni to leave it, and about twenty years ago he came to England. Here he married, and contrived to live on his own industry, and the knowledge he had acquired in various branches whilst at Rome, in which city he had spent many of his juvenile hours. He now turned his thoughts to hydraulics, a science to which he had before paid attention, and which in the end was the principal cause of his going into Egypt.”

“I must interrupt you dear mamma,” said Bernard; “will you tell me what is meant by _hydraulics_, and why Belzoni should go into Egypt on that account?”

“The science which has for its object the motion of fluids is called hydraulics, and its principal object is to furnish us with the means of conducting water from one situation to another by canals or other means. Belzoni imagined that a hydraulic machine would be of great use in Egypt to irrigate the fields, which want water only to make them produce at any time of the year.”

“Then the soil is fertile, and the climate warm, I suppose, mamma?” said Owen.

“Yes: the soil of Egypt is particularly noted for the fertility occasioned by its wonderful river; and, while thinking of this, we are led to observe the two beautiful prospects which, owing to it, Egypt exhibits at two seasons of the year. During _our_ summer the climate _there_ is excessively warm, and it is impossible to describe a scene more delightful than that which the country presents at the first overflowing of the Nile; the spectator beholds a spacious sea, spotted with innumerable towns and villages, sometimes contrasted with groves of palm-trees, while a magnificent display of sylvan and mountainous scenery bounds the extensive prospect.

“On the contrary, if the view be taken when _our_ gardens and fields are clothed in the robes of winter, the whole country _there_ resembles one large meadow, covered with the finest verdure, and enamelled with the choicest flowers; the plains embellished with flocks and herds; the air, pure and salubrious, scented with orange and lemon blossoms, which blow in luxuriance.”

“I should like to live in Egypt, mamma!” exclaimed Bernard.

“But inconveniences are to be met with there, as well as every where else, my love. The heat is oppressive to all who are unused to it: indeed, the southerly winds are sometimes so sultry as to oblige the natives to immure themselves in vaults or caves; and not unfrequently these winds raise such clouds of sand as to obscure the light of the sun, and, even to those who are used to them, to be almost insupportable. The people call them poisonous winds, or winds of the Desert, and, during the three days that they generally last, the streets are forsaken; and in a melancholy condition is the unfortunate traveller, whom they surprise remote from shelter.”

“I wonder,” exclaimed Emily, “whether Belzoni ever encountered them. Do you think he did, mamma?”

“I will begin my account, and then you may hear a description of the various adventures he met with.”

Mrs. A. then began to relate some circumstances of _Belzoni’s Researches in Egypt and Nubia_, as follows.

Some years after Mr. Belzoni had resided in England, he formed the resolution of going to the south of Europe; and, taking Mrs. Belzoni with him, he visited Portugal and Spain, and afterwards the small but important isle of Malta, which lies to the south of Sicily, and is celebrated for its fine port and for the strength of its fortifications, now belonging to Great Britain. Hence they embarked for Egypt, and arrived in safety in Alexandria, on the seacoast.

On entering the harbour of this city, Belzoni was informed that the plague was there. To an European, who had never been in that country, this was alarming intelligence. Happily, however, it nearly ceased in a short time; and as his principal view was to go on to Cairo, the capital of Egypt, he hired a boat, and they embarked with an English gentleman, who was going up the Nile.

This city is one hundred miles from the mouth of the Nile. Owing to contrary winds, it was some days before our travellers landed at Boolac, within a mile of it. At this place a bustling scene presented itself, and the majestic appearance of Turkish soldiers in various costumes, Arabs of many tribes, boats, camels, horses, and asses, all in motion formed a striking picture. Immediately after landing, they went to Cairo; but, as the holy fathers of the convent of Terrasanta could not receive women within their walls, they were accommodated in an old house at Boolac, belonging to a gentleman, the interpreter and director of all foreign affairs of Mahomed Ali, the Turkish Viceroy, or Bashaw, by whom Egypt is governed.

He was a man of great acuteness of understanding, and well disposed towards strangers; which was fortunate for Belzoni as he had to apply through this gentleman to the Bashaw respecting his hydraulic machine, for which purpose he went to Egypt.

Travellers are frequently obliged to submit to inconvenience, and so were ours. The house they inhabited was so old and out of repair, that it appeared every moment as though ready to fall on their heads: all the windows were shut up with broken wooden rails; the staircase was in so bad a condition, that scarcely a step was left entire; the door was merely fastened by a pole placed against it, having neither lock nor any thing else to secure the entrance. There were many rooms in the house, but the ceiling in all of them was in a most threatening state. The whole furniture consisted of a single mat, in one of the best rooms, which they considered as the drawing-room.

No chairs are to be had in this country; so they sat on the ground, and a box or a trunk served as a table. Fortunately, they had a few plates, as well as knives and forks; and James, an Irish lad, whom they took with them, procured a set of culinary articles.

Such were the accommodations our enterprising travellers met with at Boolac!

Although Belzoni’s chief object was not to see antiquities at that time, yet he felt desirous of visiting the famous pyramids, which are at the foot of those mountains that separate Egypt from Libya.

MRS. A.--The English gentleman who accompanied Belzoni up the Nile obtained an escort of soldiers from the Bashaw, and went with him to the pyramids one evening, intending to ascend one of them the following morning to see the sun rise. Accordingly, they were on the top long before the dawn of day. The scene they beheld delighted them, being grand and majestic beyond description. A mist over the wide sandy plains formed a veil which vanished gradually as the sun rose, and at length opened to their view that beautiful land, once the site of Memphis. The distant view of the smaller pyramids, on the south, marked the extension of that vast capital; while the solemn spectacle of the immense sandy desert on the west, stretching as far as the eye could reach, inspired sublimer feelings. The fertile land on the North, with the winding course of the Nile descending towards the sea; the rich appearance of Cairo and its glittering minarets; the beautiful plain, which extends from the pyramids to that city: the thick groves of palm-trees in the midst of the fertile valley, altogether formed a scene Belzoni was well calculated to enjoy.

There are steps on the outside of the pyramids by which they can ascend.

Having gratified his admiration, he went with his friend round the next pyramid, examined several of the mausoleums, and returned to Cairo, highly delighted with having seen a wonder they had long desired, but never supposed they should have the pleasure of beholding.

A few days after this time, a party was formed to go to Sacara by water. After visiting the pyramids at that place, they returned to Cairo, except Mr. Turner, the English gentleman, and Belzoni, who went on to Dajior, and examined the remains of many other pyramids there. When they came back to the Nile, it was quite night, and they had to pass several villages before they reached a place where they could embark for Cairo. Their road lay through a cluster of palm-trees, which, as the moon was just rising, had a solemn effect. Some of the Arabs were dancing to the usual tunes of their tambourines, and, forgetting their masters, the Turks, were happy for a time. At length, Belzoni and his friend took a small boat, and arrived in Cairo before morning. Two days after this time, the former was to be presented to the Bashaw on the subject of his hydraulic project.

We should hope the Bashaw would be pleased with it, after Belzoni had taken so much pains to promote the comfort of his people. But poor Belzoni met with an unfortunate accident, which detained him for some time. He received a violent blow on the leg, from a soldier who was passing on horseback, and was obliged to be taken to the convent of Terrasanta.

It must have been very desolate to be laid up at such a place; and yet the convent was, perhaps, more comfortable than the old house at Boolac. I think that cruel soldier had never heard the golden rule, “Do as you would be done by,” for the common feelings of humanity were strangers to his bosom. Belzoni, however was well enough in a few days to be presented to the Bashaw.

OWEN.--I do not like to interrupt you, mamma; but is the Bashaw in the place of a King? What sort of government is it in Egypt?

MRS. A.--The form of government in Egypt is called an aristocracy, that is, a republican state, wherein the supreme power is consigned to nobles and peers. Since Egypt has been under the dominion of the Turks, it has been governed by a Bashaw, who resides at Cairo, and who has under him inferior governors in several parts of the country.

The inhabitants of Egypt are composed of different races of people. The Turks, who think themselves entitled to be masters of the country, because the Arabs (who were another race) were conquered by them; then there are the Copts, who are descended from the first Egyptians; as well as many others, under different denominations.

And now, having wandered from our subject we will pursue it, and relate some of Belzoni’s adventures.

Adventures are delightful things, provided an escape follows.

Belzoni made an arrangement with the Bashaw, and undertook to erect a machine which would raise as much water with one ox as the machines of the country with four.

There was reason to expect that Mahomed Ali might be of too indolent a disposition to admire any thing new: he was a Turk you know, and the Turks are famed for their indolence. A person of an enervated turn of mind cannot derive so much pleasure from a new project as one of a more active disposition. Ali, however, received our Belzoni very civilly, and was much pleased with his proposition. And well he might be, when he could foresee that, if put in execution, it would spare the expense and labour of many thousands of oxen.

Belzoni now commenced his hydraulic machine. It was to be erected in Soubra, at the garden of the Bashaw, on the Nile, three miles from Cairo. He had many difficulties to encounter, Bernard; for the very persons who were necessary to furnish him with wood, iron, carpentry, and so on, unfortunately recollected that they should be the first to suffer by it, if the machine succeeded. However success is secure unless energy fails, and Belzoni in time saw his water machine completed. But as he was some time at Soubra, perhaps you may like to hear how he passed the intervals, when unoccupied by his work.

You see that a great deal depends upon the turn which is given to our early pursuits. The science of hydraulics first became familiar to Belzoni when he was a boy in Rome. I dare say he did not then think of going to Egypt?

During his stay at Soubra, Belzoni became acquainted with many Turks, and particularly with the governor of the palace, as his house was within his walls. The garden of the Bashaw was under his care, and a guard was kept at the gates. The seraglio is so situated that it overlooks the Nile; at the back of it is a beautiful garden under the care of the Greeks, and kept in excellent order. It is ornamented with green bowers overhung with flowering shrubs, and alcoves in the form of little cupolas, around which the fragrant plants twine their numerous tendrils, whilst water machines constantly at work, kept up a perpetual verdure. Belzoni’s were not actually the _first_ water machines in use in Egypt, but much larger than any before known there, and the best calculated to answer any important purpose. You, Emily, who are so fond of flowers, will perhaps smile at the amusements which delight the Bashaw far more highly than watching the progress of his shrubs and plants. In the evening, when the sun is declining in the west, he quits the seraglio, and seats himself on the banks of the Nile, with his guards, to fire at an earthen pot on the opposite side.

If Mahomed Ali be no botanist, he is an excellent marksman; for I believe the river at Soubra is wider than the Thames at Westminster Bridge.

When it is dark he retires into the garden, and reposes in a shady alcove, or by the margin of some bubbling fountain, with all his attendants around him, who endeavour to amuse him, and make him feel in good humour with himself, whilst the murmuring of the waters, the lively tunes of the musical instruments, and the soft beams of the moon reflected upon the surface of the Nile, heightened the pleasure of the scene. Here Belzoni was often admitted, and thus had an opportunity of observing the domestic life of a man, who from nothing rose to be viceroy of Egypt, and conqueror of the most powerful tribes of Arabia.

The Bashaw seemed to be well aware of the benefit that might be derived from his encouraging the arts of Europe in his country, and had already reaped some of the fruits of it. The manufacture of gunpowder, the refining of sugar, the making of fine indigo, and the silk manufacture were introduced much to his advantage; he is constantly inquiring after something new, and is delighted with any novelty. He had heard of electricity, and he sent to England for two electrical machines.

Do you remember, Bernard, the shock you all received from the one in papa’s study, when you held a little chain, and Emily held your hand, and Owen hers, and we all jumped together?

One of Mahomed Ali’s machines was broken by the way; the other was dismounted. No one could be found who knew how to set it up. Belzoni happened to be at the garden one night when they were attempting it, and he was requested to put the pieces together; having done so, he desired one of the soldiers to mount the insulating stool, when charging the machine, he gave the Turk a good shock, who being thus struck unawares, uttered a loud cry and jumped off extremely terrified. The Bashaw laughed at the man for doing so, supposing his alarm was a pretence and not the effect of the machine; and when told that it was actually occasioned by the machine, he positively affirmed that it could not be, for the soldier was at such a distance that it was impossible the small chain he held in his hand could have such power.

Belzoni desired the interpreter to inform his Highness that if he would have the goodness to mount the stool, he would be convinced of the fact. He hesitated a moment whether to believe it or not; however he mounted the stool. Belzoni charged well, put the little chain into his hand, and gave him a smart shock. He jumped off, like the soldier, on feeling the effect of the electricity, and threw himself on the sofa, laughing immoderately and unable to conceive how the machine could have such power on the human body.

You may imagine how very droll Mahomed Ali must have looked when he was standing upon that little stool, and especially when he found himself forced to jump off!

The Arabs of Soubra display as much festivity when a marriage of consequence takes place, as those of any of the villages in Egypt. One happened while Belzoni was there, and as the windows of his house overlooked the spot where it was performed, he had an opportunity of witnessing the ceremony. Early in the morning of the grand holiday, a high pole was reared in the centre of the place with a banner or flag belonging to the village. A large assembly of people gathered under it, and preparations were made for an illumination with glass lamps; music was prepared, &c.

The Arabs from other villages came to the feast also, beating their tambourines and waving their flags; but they remained at some distance from the pole until invited to advance.

The old people seated themselves around and under the pole, and the strangers were placed at a little distance. One of them began to sing, while the rest divided themselves into two parties, forming two circles, one within the other round the pole, and facing each other.

Each man put his arms over his neighbours’ shoulders, and thus formed a chain. The outer circle stood still, while the people of the inner circle kept dancing and bowing in an orderly manner to those on the outer. Thus they continued three hours, and those who were not in the circles made separate rings by themselves. This is the mode of dancing among the Arabs.

All the women were at a distance by themselves, and among them was the bride. When the dancing and singing ended, they all sat down, and a great quantity of boiled rice was brought to them in wooden bowls, as well as some dishes of melokie and bamies, which are plants eaten in common by the Arabs as greens, and three or four sheep roasted, which were soon torn to pieces and devoured. A number of boys were fully employed during the whole ceremony in fetching water from the Nile. At night the little coloured lamps were lighted, a band of tambourines played continually, and the entertainment ended as it had commenced, with a dance.

And now, let us turn to Belzoni. He completed his undertaking in time. The machine was constructed on the principle of a crane with a walking wheel, in which a single ox, by its own weight alone, could effect as much as four oxen employed in the machines of the country. Belzoni managed to prepare it in spite of the difficulties he had to encounter with the self-interested workmen; he was of too enterprising a disposition to give up a work which was the chief cause of his going into that country.

BERNARD.--Before you go on, mamma, will you tell me what you mean by a crane?--there is a picture of a crane in my Bewick--but I cannot at all make out what is meant by a _crane with a walking wheel_.

MRS. A.--The crane of which I speak, Bernard, is not a _bird_--but a machine used in building, for raising and lowering huge stones, heavy weights, and sometimes water, you see. It is a technical term in mechanics, and I will try by and bye to explain to you what is meant by a crane with a walking wheel.

The Bashaw came to Soubra to examine the hydraulic machine. It was set to work and succeeded admirably, drawing in the same space of time six or seven times as much water as the common machines.

Belzoni thought himself well repaid. And the Egyptian farmers might now sow their seed without being afraid of a famine--even if the Nile did not overflow, they could raise water, and water their fields so well.

Our best endeavours, however, though they sometimes appear at first crowned with success, may afterwards defeat the purpose for which they were intended. So it was with those of our ingenious friend. The Bashaw took it into his head to have the oxen taken out of the wheel, in order to see, by way of frolic, what effect the machine would have by putting fifteen men into it. Poor James, the Irish lad you know, had entered along with them, but no sooner had the wheel turned once round than they all jumped out, leaving the boy alone in it. The wheel, of course, overbalanced by the weight of the water, turned back with such velocity that the catch was unable to stop it. James was thrown out, and in the fall broke one of his thighs. Belzoni contrived to stop the wheel before it did farther injury, which might have been fatal to him.

The Turks are so superstitious, that they considered such an accident happening to a new invention as a bad omen--and thus Belzoni’s ingenuity was thrown away. The Bashaw was persuaded to abandon the affair, and the project of Belzoni being thus consigned to oblivion, he turned his thoughts to the antiquities of the country, and, possessing a spirit for investigation, determined to make some researches.

A gentleman of the name of Burckhardt, had for a long time premeditated the removal of a colossal bust, known by the name of young Memnon, to England, and had often tried to persuade Ali to send it as a present to his Majesty; however, the Turk did not suppose it worth sending to so great a person. But Belzoni, knowing how much that gentleman wished it, proposed to undertake its conveyance from Thebes to Alexandria, and, with the Bashaw’s consent, to forward it from thence to England. He now, therefore, prepared to go up the Nile. He was then at Soubra, three miles from Cairo. It was intended to present this immense statue to the British Museum, and he was directed to search for it on the southern side of a ruined temple, in the vicinity of a village called Gournou, near Carnac. You can trace the course of the Nile from Cairo, upon the map, until you find Carnac just by Thebes. Gournou is near it.

Belzoni was requested to spare neither expense nor trouble, in getting it as speedily conveyed to the banks of the river as possible. So he hired a boat, with four sailors, a boy, and a captain. Every thing was soon ready for their departure from Soubra. The whole of the implements, for the operation of removing the bust, consisted of a few poles and ropes of palm-leaves. Mrs. Belzoni accompanied her husband, and they agreed to stay and examine any ruins they might pass on the road. James, the Irish boy was, happily, able to accompany them. And now, you must follow their course on the map, from Boolac, where they embarked, to Thebes. In six days they arrived at Siout, the capital of Upper Egypt, and from thence they went to Acmin, where they landed to visit the fathers of a convent: and again proceeded, with curiosity highly raised, towards the noted temple of Tentyra. This is the first Egyptian temple the traveller sees, on ascending the Nile, as well as the most magnificent.

It is two miles from the Nile, and Belzoni and his party having landed, set off on asses, and proceeded to the ruins. Little could be seen of the temple, till they were near it, as it is surrounded by high mounds of rubbish.

When he arrived there, he was for some time at a loss to know in what part to begin his examinations. The numerous objects before him struck him with surprise and astonishment--the immense masses of stone employed in the edifice--the majestic appearance of its construction--the variety of its ornaments, and the excellent preservation in which he found it, had such an effect on Belzoni, that he seated himself on the ground, lost in delight and admiration.

This temple is the cabinet of the Egyptian arts,--and it is supposed to have been built during the reign of the first Ptolemy. It is not improbable that he who studied to render himself beloved by his people, might erect such an edifice to convince the Egyptians of his superiority of mind over the ancient kings of Egypt, even in religious devotion.

It will take us too long to describe this famous temple minutely. When Mr. and Mrs. Belzoni had gratified their curiosity, they returned to their little boat, and embarked for Thebes. They will soon have reached the end of their voyage, and then for the great colossal bust.

Belzoni says, that it is impossible to imagine the scene displayed by the extensive ruins at Thebes. It appeared to him, on entering it, like a city of giants, who were all destroyed, leaving only the remains of various temples, as proofs of their former existence. The attention is attracted on one side, by towering ruins, that project above a noble wood of palm-trees, and there the traveller enters an endless number of temples, columns, obelisks, and portals. On every side he finds himself among wonders. The immense colossal figures in the plains, the number of tombs hollowed in the rocks, those in the great valley of the kings, with their paintings, sculptures, mummies, and figures, are all objects worthy of admiration, and one cannot fail to wonder how a nation, which was once so great as to erect these stupendous edifices, could so far fall into oblivion, that even its language and writing are totally unknown to us.

Having taken a survey of this seat of ancient grandeur, Belzoni crossed the Nile, and bent his way towards the ruined temple, near Gournou. It stands elevated above the plain; he entered the groups of columns, regarding the numerous tombs excavated in the high rock behind them, and his first thought was to examine the bust he had to take away.

He found it on the southern side of the temple, near the remains of its body and chair with the face upwards. It was beautiful, and of immense size. Laura, who has seen it in the British Museum, will be able to give you a more accurate account of it.

BERNARD.--I cannot imagine, mamma, how Belzoni could attempt to remove it; you know he had only some poles, and some ropes of palm-leaves--and palm-ropes, made ever so strong, would not be able to support such a weight. I think he had better have contrived a car, somewhat like that the African sheep has to rest its tail upon, in “Church’s cabinet,”--and by this means he might have brought it to the Nile, and then had it placed in a boat, and conveyed to Cairo.

MRS. A.--No bad scheme, my little boy! Belzoni’s whole set of implements consisted of fourteen poles, eight of which he did employ in making a car, similar to what you have proposed; four ropes of palm-leaves, and four rollers--they were better than wheels; and he now began to be very busy.

As the bust was some way from the Nile, it would have been too far for them to go to sleep in the boat every night; so a small hut was formed for them with stones, among the ruins of the temple. They were not very handsomely lodged, but perhaps they found this little hut as comfortable as the shabby old house at Boolac, which they were always expecting to fall upon their heads, and both our travellers were used to put up with inconvenient things.

The season at which time the Nile usually overflows was fast approaching, and all of the lands which extend from the temple to the water side, would have been covered in the course of a month--The ground between the bust and the river was very uneven, so that unless it had been conveyed over those places before the inundation commenced, it would have been impossible to have affected it. Belzoni, therefore, lost no time. With some difficulty he procured a number of men, and agreed to give them thirty paras a day, which is equal to fourpence halfpenny English money, if they would undertake to assist him. A carpenter made a car, somewhat like that which supports the tail of your African sheep, Bernard, only very large, and the first operation was to place the bust upon this simple carriage. The people of Gournou, who were familiar with Caphany, as they named it, were persuaded that it could never be removed from the spot where it lay and when they saw, what to them appeared so impossible, they set up a shout, and could not believe that it was the effect of their own efforts. The next thing was to place it on the car. Can you guess how Belzoni managed this business?

BERNARD.--I fancy, that he bound the palm-leaf ropes round and round Caphany very fast, and very firmly, and then the men tried and tried, until they had lifted him up, and placed him upon it.

MRS. A.--Ah, my little friend! you do not evince much knowledge of mechanical powers, or you could not suppose that this image would be moved by mere personal strength. Now, Owen, what is your opinion?

OWEN.--I should think, that by means of levers, the bust might be raised so as to leave a vacancy under it, and then the car might be introduced by some of the people, who were standing ready. After Caphany had been lodged on this, the car itself might be raised so as to get one of the rollers beneath, and if the same operation were performed at the back, he would be ready to be pulled up:--and then, if you please, Bernard, your palm-leaf ropes may come in use, to tie him to the carriage, and draw him along.

MRS. A.--This is the very method Belzoni pursued, and when he had succeeded in getting it removed some yards from its original place, he sent an Arab to Cairo, with the intelligence that the bust had begun its journey to England. Our ingenious friend reminds me of a remark made by a celebrated writer, “that it is by small efforts frequently repeated, that man completes his greatest undertaking, to have attempted which, at _one_ effort would have baffled his ability,” for he had still many difficulties to encounter. When the Arabs found that they received money for the removal of a stone, they fancied that it was filled with gold in the inside, and that a thing of such value ought not to be permitted to be taken away.

However, the next day, and the next, and the next, Caphany advanced slowly forwards, and after many delays, owing to the softness of the sand, and to the desertion of some of the workmen, the fear of an inundation, &c. Belzoni had the gratification of seeing his young Memnon arrive on the banks of the Nile.

Thus, you see perseverance is generally crowned with success. But it yet remained to put the colossus in a boat; it had a long, long way to go down the Nile before it could arrive at Cairo, and Belzoni intended to stop there to show it to Mahomed Ali.

But no boat is to be had. We must therefore leave the bust for the present, and accompany him, if you please, into one of the caves that are scattered about the mountains of Gournou, and are so celebrated for the quantities of mummies they contain: he wished to see a famous sarcophagus which was in one of them, and thither he went. You know that mummies are the bodies of dead persons, which have been wrapped up, in a great many bandages to preserve them, and a sarcophagus is a sort of tomb or coffin.[1]

Two Arabs and an interpreter accompanied Belzoni. Previous to entering the cave, they took off the greater part of their clothes, and each having a candle, advanced through a cavity in the rock, which extended a considerable length in the mountain, sometimes high, sometimes very narrow, and sometimes so low that Belzoni and his attendants were obliged to creep on their hands and knees. Thus they went on till he perceived that they were at a great distance from the entrance, and the way was so intricate that he depended entirely on the two Arabs to conduct him out again. His situation now was not to be envied--you know Arabs are sometimes treacherous.

At length they arrived at a large place into which many other holes or cavities opened, and after some examination by the Arabs, they entered one of them which was very narrow, and continued downward for a long way, through a craggy passage, till they came where two other apertures led to the interior in a horizontal direction. One of the Arabs then said “This is the place.”

This might well have startled Belzoni, for he was far from the light of day--in a dark craggy passage in the midst of a dismal mummy cave, and attended only by two Arabs and one other man!--However, the Arab only intended to point out this spot as being the situation of the sarcophagus, but Belzoni could not conceive how any thing so large as it had been described to him could have been taken through so small an aperture. He had no doubt but these recesses were burial places, as skulls and bones were strewed in all directions; but the sarcophagus could never have entered an aperture which even Belzoni himself could not penetrate. One of the Arabs, however, succeeded, as did the interpreter, and it was agreed that Belzoni and the other Arab should wait their return. They certainly proceeded to a great distance, for the light disappeared and only a murmuring sound from their voices could be distinguished as they went on. After a few moments a loud noise was heard, and the interpreter distinctly crying, “_O mon Dieu! mon Dieu! Je suis perdu!_”--a solemn silence ensued.

Belzoni asked the Arab whether he had ever been in that place. He replied “_Never._”

He judged it to be his best plan to return and procure help from the other Arabs. He wished to do so, but when he desired the man to show him the way out again, he said he did not know the road--he then called--no answer was returned--all was still as death--he watched for a long time--no candle appeared, and his own was almost burnt out.

This was an adventure indeed, he began to think the Arabs had some design on his life and he endeavoured to find his way to the entrance?--It was a complete labyrinth; however, he managed to return through some of the passages to that place, where, as I told you just now, there were many cavities. Here, again he was puzzled; but at last, seeing one which appeared to be right, they proceeded through it a long way. Their candles appeared likely to leave them in the dark, and in that case their situation would have been yet more deplorable. He did not like to put out one of the candles to save it, for fear the other might be extinguished by some accident.

At this time, supposing themselves near the outside of the tomb, what was their disappointment on finding there was no outlet, and that they must retrace their steps to that place whence they had entered this cavity. They strove to regain it, but were as perplexed as ever, and were both exhausted from the ascents and descents which they were obliged to pass. The Arab seated himself, but every moment of delay was dangerous.

In going in Belzoni had thought to preserve a clue to the passage by putting a mark at the entrance of each cavity as he examined it, but unfortunately their candles were not long enough to last so many researches. However, hope, the cheering star of life, darts a ray of light through the thickest gloom, and, encouraged by it, they began their operations. On the second, attempt, when passing before a small, aperture, Belzoni fancied he heard something like the roaring of the sea at a distance. In consequence they entered this opening, and as they advanced the noise increased, till they could distinctly hear a number of voices all at one time.

BERNARD.--What joy this must have given them!--as much joy as it gave Owen to hear papa’s voice in the wood, when he was lost whilst we were gathering nuts last summer--perhaps more; for I am sure I would rather be lost in a nice green wood than in an Egyptian mummy cave! Go on dear mamma.

MRS. A.--At last they walked out, and to their no small surprise, the first person who presented himself was the interpreter. How he came to be there seemed astonishing. He told them, that in proceeding with the Arab along the passage below, they came to a pit which they did not see, and that the Arab fell into it, and in falling put out both candles. It was then that he cried out, “_Mon Dieu! je suis perdu!_” as he thought he also should have fallen into the pit; but, on raising his head, he saw at a great distance a glimpse of daylight, towards which he advanced, and thus arrived at a small aperture. He then scraped away some loose sand and stones, to widen the place where he came out, and went to give the alarm to the Arabs, who were at the other entrance. Being all concerned for the man who fell to the bottom of the pit, it was their noise Belzoni had heard in the cave. The place by which the interpreter had escaped was instantly widened, and in the confusion the Arabs did not regard letting Belzoni see that they were acquainted with _that_ entrance, and that it had lately been shut up. He was not long in detecting their scheme. They had intended to show him the sarcophagus without letting him see the way by which it might be taken out, and then to stipulate a price for the secret; as it was in reality but one hundred yards from the great entrance.

With this view they had taken him that roundabout way. They paid dear for their intended deception. The man was taken out of the well, but so much hurt as to be lame ever after. Thus the Arabs defeated their own purpose, and proved that self-interest indeed is blind. When men stoop to the meanness of equivocation or deceit, especially in hopes of promoting their own good, they are artful but not wise; for, as we can only judge of the circumstances of the present moment, and cannot foresee consequences, it is very likely, as it proved with the Arabs, that our cunning will bring us into still greater difficulties. It is also certain to deprive us of confidence in the protecting care of providence, which, as I have often told you, is the greatest support and comfort in every trouble.

Well, Bernard, do you regret Laura’s having taken a sketch in Egypt instead of having drawn the spokes of the wheels of your little cart?

BERNARD.--Oh, no, mamma--never mind the spokes! I like your account very much. But where is Caphany all this time, with his palm-leaf-ropes?

MRS. A.--Two guards were attending him by night and by day. Belzoni at length sent to Cairo for a boat, but as he knew it could not arrive for some time, he formed an enclosure of earth all around the bust, and spent the mean time in visiting various antiquities. His courage was not daunted by the peril he had passed through; many people would not have ventured into mummy caves at all events, again. But he preserved his mind from fear by not indulging it.

OWEN.--Right! right! I like Belzoni, because he possessed real courage--did he not, mamma?--real fortitude! although he was a little terrified when alone with the Arab, in that dismal place, yet he did not let that fear prevent his undertaking other projects. When I am a man, mother, I mean to be a traveller, and to possess as much perseverance as _our Belzoni_!

MRS. A.--Experience will teach you, my love, that it is not a very easy thing for one unaccustomed to an arduous life, to pass on a sudden from the midst of comfort and indulgence to one that is so irregular.

Belzoni determined to go up the Nile into Nubia, and to leave the bust where it was during his absence. He sent James to Cairo, and discharged the carpenter, so that a small party only remained, and they set off from Esne, which is only a few miles from Thebes. There they landed just in time to see Khalil Bey, with whom they had become acquainted some time before in Soubra; and who was appointed to the government of the Upper Provinces from Esne to Assouan.

He was just returned from an excursion into the country, was much pleased to see Belzoni, and received him very politely. Our traveller found him with his pipe and coffee, seated on a sofa made of earth, and covered with a fine carpet and satin cushions, surrounded by a great number of his chiefs, Cacheffs and Santons. Khalil Bey was an Albanian, but his mode of life was similar to that of the Egyptians in general, which I will describe to you in another chapter.

FOOTNOTE:

[1] At Peale’s New York Museum there is a mummy which was taken with the double coffin from one of the tombs discovered by Belzoni at Thebes. Part of the bandages having been removed, one side of the head and the shoulder of the body are exposed to view. It is thought to be now more than 2000 years old and believed to have been a person of great distinction, from the careful and expensive manner in which it is preserved. It is wrapped in sixty-three thicknesses of linen and inclosed in two coffins of sycamore wood ornamented with carving and hieroglyphics.