Chapter THIRTY: FOURTH.--Our Wheels revolve--The Natives of the Island (7)

We here found an American, Mr. Priest, of Philadelphia, who had just entered a convent; not, however, with a view to taking the veil, but to take down the superfluous crosses and ornaments, preparatory to converting the building into a hotel. The building had attained the advanced age of two hundred and forty years; it seemed almost sacrilege to divest it of its ornaments. The natives were accustomed to seeing priests enter convents, but they looked upon the demonstrations of our Philadelphia Priest with a suspicious eye.

In Spanish America, a horse that is led through the street is always considered “up” for sale. We hired a _muchacho_ to lead ours through Grenada, and soon had several applicants. One, wishing to try him, mounted, and the horse being thirsty, walked very deliberately down to the lake, and waded in until the water came up to his sides. After remaining for a certain length of time, the rider pulled on the reins, and invited the horse to step ashore; but, no--he was perfectly satisfied with his situation, and did not wish to change it. He applied the spurs--the horse appeared to have fallen into a quiet slumber; he swore in Spanish, but it was of no use. There was no alternative but to dismount, and wade or swim ashore. He reached the shore in safety, but did not buy the horse. We offered him to Mr. Priest for six dollars, including saddle, bridle, and spurs. He offered two, at which price we “closed him out.”

Our first efforts were directed to hiring conveyance to San Carlos and San Juan; we applied to Mr. Derbyshire, an English merchant from Jamaica, and succeeded in hiring a _bungo_ of sufficient capacity to carry our party of fifteen, including baggage. There were two other _bungoes_, hired by Americans that were to be our company down; and after a protracted and vexatious detention of two days, the time of starting arrived. We now, however, had a new and unexpected difficulty to encounter, the boatmen refused to go on board; but after a long parley, a complaint was lodged with the Alcalde, who ordered out a file of soldiers, they forming in line along the river bank to protect the agents, while they were _whipping_ the boatmen on board. At length the oars were plied, and we shot out into the lake, and laid our course for a group of islands three miles distant, in order to lay in a stock of plantains for the voyage. This group number one hundred islands, each having one house and one proprietor. Nothing can excel the beauty and fertility of this group; tropical fruits grow spontaneously and in the greatest abundance, and the islands seem to nestle, with feeling security, in the bosom of this lake, which sleeps in perpetual calm. The foliage is most luxuriant, interlaced with vines bearing flowers of every conceivable hue; these flowers generally hang from the vines on tendrils, and spend their hours fondling with the air, loading its breath with perfume. The trees grow to the very margin of the lake, and seem to look admiringly into the mirror at their feet.

Remaining during the night we took an early start, laying our course in the direction of Mr. Derbyshire’s plantation, which is on the opposite side of the lake, thirty miles distant. Our mission here, or that of our boatmen, was to take in cattle for the San Juan market. We arrived early in the morning of the second day from the islands. Our ambitious boatmen would work only in the evening and morning; in the middle of the day they would lay and broil in the sun.

We arrived at an early hour, and commenced preparing breakfast. We had chickens, and rice, and chocolate on board; we sent to the plantation for eggs, milk, and bananas, and soon sat down to a breakfast that would have pleased the most fastidious palate. The manner in which it was served I am not prepared to say was quite so satisfactory. (See Plate.) One was sitting on a rock, drinking his coffee from a tin basin; another standing up, doing likewise; a third holding a chicken by a leg and wing, trying to dissect it without the use of edged tools. One of our party has finished his breakfast, and is sitting on a rock, in a very aldermanic attitude, smoking a pipe, probably the only one ever introduced into Central America.

While we were taking breakfast, the natives were taking in a cargo of bullocks; the manner was truly Spanish. The bungoes were anchored a short distance from shore, the cattle were driven as near as convenient, when one of them would be _lassoed_, the other end of the lasso being fastened to the horse’s neck; the horse is mounted and spurred into the lake, drawing the victim after him, which, in case of resistance, is unmercifully beaten. The horse tows him around on the seaward side of the

_bungo_, when the lasso is slipped and the bullock beaten and _booted_ until he jumps on board. Two passengers of this class will be seen cozily chewing their cuds in the midships of the two _bungoes_ in the foreground, and one is just _stepping on board_ that on the right. In the background is seen a party of natives, cooking and eating breakfast. They put rice and plantains together into an iron pot, and stew them into a chowder which is served out in small gourds. After spending an hour on shore, there was a simultaneous move to go on board; the inexpressibles of some were rolled up, others pulled off. Before starting we saw one native moving towards the _bungo_, and one only; he was dressed in nature’s garments, with a palm-leaf hat in his hand, and a bunch of stolen bananas on his shoulder. On arriving at the side of our bungo, we found the best apartments occupied by his bullockship, to which we immediately protested, as contrary to the rules of polite society; not that we wished to limit any one of the passengers in the number of legs used, but then his head-dress was “positively shocking,” and might put us to great inconvenience in a case of emergency. Our first impulse was to show him the depth of water on our larboard quarter, but then he seemed quiet, and as he was engaged to appear at the table of nobility at San Juan, we resolved to submit to the inconvenience, and let him ride. We soon slipped our cables, and were under way in the direction of San Carlos. Nothing can exceed the magnificence and beauty of the scene that now surrounds us. Mountains are climbing one above the other, until the last is lost in the clouds; the lake is studded with islands, some reposing modestly in her bosom, others rearing their heads as if trying to vie with the surrounding mountains. Now night throws her sable mantle over the scene, and all is hushed as death; the surrounding volcanos light their watch fires, and loom up in the most terrific grandeur. In the morning our boatmen rose up from their seats, and, in a wild strain, chanted a hymn of praise to God for protection to themselves and “los Americanos.”

In the course of the morning we passed in sight of a town, which was situated on the side of the mountain, at a great elevation, presenting a most picturesque appearance. We also saw miners at work in the gold mines, on the side of the mountain. As we drew near San Carlos, we saw several volcanos rising, in pyramidal form, from the bosom of the lake; one, that of Omotepeque, towering up to the height of six thousand feet. (See Plate.)

On our arrival at San Carlos we were required to submit to custom-house regulations, the officer insisting upon searching our trunks. To this we demurred, having passed through the entire country without submitting to such an ordeal. The officer seeming anxious to compromise the matter, demanded $5 in stead from each; the Americans who had preceded us submitted to this extortion, but we were determined to resist. The officer became more moderate, coming down--down--down--to a _real_; upon our refusing to pay this, he made a move in the direction of the cannon which was near; we, however, were first to possess it, and things for the moment wore a warlike appearance. The officer, not wishing to bring things to a crisis, held a consultation with our “Padrone,” and came to the conclusion that all was right, that as we were Americans he would treat us with due consideration. At the left, in the Plate, is seen the residence of this worthy officer, behind which is the village of San Carlos.

Chapter Twenty-seventh.

PASSAGE DOWN THE SAN JUAN RIVER--CASTILIAN RAPIDS--THE
“DIRECTOR”--ARRIVAL AT SAN JUAN--BOARDED BY A POSSE OF
NEGROES--BRITISH PROTECTORATE--PHILANTHROPY OF GREAT BRITAIN--HER
MAGNANIMOUS AND DISINTERESTED CONDUCT TOWARDS THE NATIONS OF THE
EARTH--NICARAGUA GRACIOUSLY REMEMBERED--A HUNT FOR A SOVEREIGN--A
FULL-GROWN KING DISCOVERED--HIS
DIPLOMACY--INVINCIBILITY--AMUSEMENTS AND CORONATION--HIS FIRST PAIR
OF PANTALOONS--HAIL “KING OF THE MUSQUITO COAST”!!!--ALL HAIL
JAMACA I.!!!--“HEAR! HEAR!!!”

We were soon on board, and passing around a point, were floating down the San Juan river at the rate of five knots. After a two hour’s run our boatmen unshipped their oars, and commenced gambling; we were borne along by the current, at the rate of two miles an hour, until toward evening, when the oars were again manned. At nine in the evening, the roar of the water admonished us that we were approaching the Castilian rapids, and we came to anchor. The natives have a dread of this rapid, and in passing it feel that their lives are in imminent peril; in this case, however, a party of boatmen forgetting themselves in sleep, passed over, and in the morning found themselves entangled in the bushes, along the margin of the river. We descended the rapid, finding the steamboat “Director,” in the act of ascending; she was making her first passage up, preparatory to taking her place on the lake for the transportation of passengers, in connection with Vanderbilt’s Line of steamships. The passage up the rapid was very difficult, owing to the strong current, being about six knots; she however succeeded, and is now plying on the lake. We passed down, and at two the next morning came to anchor in the harbor of San Juan.

At an early hour in the morning we were boarded by a posse of negroes, whose mission it was to search our baggage for firearms; they succeeded in finding two rusty guns belonging to our padrone, which they carried off in triumph. It is well known that this harbor is under the protectorate of Great Britain, and our worthy visitors were subjects of Her Majesty, as well as of His Majesty of the “Mosquito Coast.” They seem in fear of an army from Grenada, hence this precaution.

The town consists of about fifty thatched houses, tenanted by French, English, German, Spanish, and Negroes. Things here are, in a measure, _reverso_; a negro is agent for Great Britain--his boots are blacked by a white man. We found a British man-of-war in port, which is kept here to enforce their _wholesome regulations_.

The philanthropy of Great Britain has become proverbial. There is scarcely a port on the European continent that has not heard the music of her cannon, and been relieved of its surplus treasures. Three-fourths of a century ago, she _succeeded_ in establishing, on the American continent, the government of the United States, and a few years thereafter voluntarily offered the use of a fleet and army at New Orleans, a part of which was _used_, the balance returned. Mexico has also been a recipient of her kind attentions. She has taken possession of the richest mines in Mexico, and worked them _gratuitously_, sending off millions under the protection of the “red cross of St. George.” Her sappers and miners have found their way to Peru and Chili, as well as other divisions on the Pacific coast of South America, the mines of all of which have been taken possession of, and worked on the same _accommodating_ terms as those of Mexico. She sent a fleet _free of charge_ to the Argentine Republic, took possession of her ports, and _forced_ the navigation of her rivers. Texas, after emerging from her glorious struggle for liberty, was offered the kind wing of protection; Great Britain even going so far as to offer her assistance in maintaining a separate republic, thinking annexation to the United States inexpedient. She visited China in the capacity of doctor, and most magnanimously forced her prescription down their unwilling throats. Her philanthropic eye next took a survey of Central America. Here she found governments of that _odious_ form called republican, that of Nicaragua having an extent of sea coast, with accessible ports, and numerous rivers.

No one, up to this time, had interfered with the jurisdiction

of Nicaragua, nor was her claim to this coast ever disputed. Great Britain, in her superior wisdom, however, decided that as Nicaragua had no particular use for seaports, they would be better in other hands, even if _she herself_ should be _compelled_ to assume the protectorate. The first step necessary to accomplish this magnanimous object was to find a suitable _sovereign_. She is supposed to have embarked in the search with her characteristic zeal and energy; it is presumed that the first inquiries were made at San Juan. At first the prospect of success was not flattering, but fortunately inquiries were made of a native Indian, who very innocently informed Her Britannic Majesty’s agent that his chief was sojourning along the “Mosquito Coast.”

What could have been more opportune? This was precisely the individual sought; here was a great man, a chief, in actual possession of the country, i. e., he had actually hunted ’possums there for a period of six months! The matter was immediately decided upon, and arrangements made to pay the monarch a visit on the following day, preparatory to his coronation. Artizans were employed in the manufacture of presents suitable for one who seemed pointed out by the finger of Providence to wear the “purple and ermine.” Tin pans were immediately transformed into crowns and collars, sardine boxes into breast-plates and stars, pill-boxes into ear and finger-rings, and “extinguishers” into ornaments for the nose. These, after a revision by chamois and soap-stone, were safely boxed, that they might not be tarnished by the touch of vulgar hands. A demijohn was filled with rum--as was supposed, to prevent his _Majesty_ from fainting under the operation of putting on _his first pair_ of pantaloons.

Early on the following morning, the ship having been ordered to drop along down the coast, the party were in motion under the pilotage of the Indian above mentioned. What momentous results sometimes attend the acts of individuals in the humble walks of life! This poor Indian, having been driven to the shore by hunger, had, while making a meal of raw fish, imparted a word, which single word was the means of bringing forth to the world a full-grown king. What were the feelings of this native, as he cut his way through the chaparrals? Had he aspirations? No doubt he had! In his wild delirium of pleasure, he, no doubt, dreamed of a canoe of his own, and a raw hide to sleep on; instead of going naked, as he had done all his life, he might have a red bandana to tie around his neck; he thought of abundance of broiled lizard, with plantain cooked in ’possum fat for dessert. With such bright visions in the future, it is not astonishing that, in wading swamps and cutting through chaparrals, he distanced those under his pilotage.

Nor was there a want of zeal on the part of Her Britannic Majesty’s agent. He too had aspirations. He was on a mission which, if successful, must result in incalculable benefit to the world in general, and to Her Britannic Majesty’s government _in particular_. If successful, knighthood was the least he could expect, with the prospect of a niche, eventually, in Westminster Abbey.

Never were mortals more eager for immortality, nor was it ever more clearly within their reach; for even now, at this point in the drama, the very dogs of his _Majesty_ seemed to proclaim it--the _royal_ encampment was in sight. The party deployed into a single file, and prepared to approach _the presence_. They took the _monarch_ by surprise; he was stretched out at full length, on a “highly-scented” raw hide, under the shade of a palm-tree, as naked as he came into the world. He was amusing himself by trying to “get up” a fight between a parrot and a young monkey; his squaw was broiling a couple of lizards or _guanas_, and roasting plantains for dinner.

The interview was at first embarrassing, but after consulting the demijohn, they seemed imbued with a more fraternizing _spirit_, and commenced conversation on the subject of empire, and the prerogative of kings. Her Britannic Majesty’s agent felt himself a man of importance, and at first seemed somewhat patronizing; but the _monarch_ had consulted the demijohn too often to be outdone, and, as a proof of his invincibility, he exhibited a huge turtle, which had fallen a victim to his _machet_; he had climbed a tree that none of his men could climb, and caught sixteen “’possums,” all hanging by the same tail from the same limb; he had taken his biggest dog by the tail, and swung him around his head three times, and declared he would do it again for their amusement. “Carlo” was immediately seized by the tail, but feeling a little sensitive, he curled up, bit

his master, and escaped. This led to a spirited foot-race, and as “Carlo” dodged, the _monarch_ slipped, his head coming in contact with the root of a tree. He seemed _discouraged_, and made no effort to regain his feet. The Englishman felt that he had committed a _faux pas_ in allowing him free access to the demijohn, and resolved to defer negotiations until the following day. He immediately repaired to the shore, and hoisted a signal for the ship’s boat.

On the following morning, the boat was again sent ashore, with an invitation for the _monarch_ to visit Her Majesty’s ship. Feeling as individuals will feel _next day_, he _graciously_ accepted the invitation. A detail of what transpired on board has never been made public, _reporters_ having been excluded. In the afterpart of the day an unusual demonstration was made, flags were displayed, cannon fired, and as the band struck up “Hail to the Chief,” an individual was seen descending the side of the ship, with a tin crown on his head, and a pair of red flannel pantaloons under his arm. On reaching the boat he took his position astride a barrel of rum, and moved toward the shore in triumph, having been crowned “King of the Mosquito Coast.” All hail, Jamaca I.!!! It is well known that Great Britain immediately recognized the government, and assumed the protectorate; hence the presence of the “red cross” at San Juan.

The distance from San Juan to Realejo is about three hundred miles. Passengers going the Nicaragua route now take a steamboat at San Juan, which runs up to the Castilian Rapids; then, after a portage of half a mile, another steamboat takes them up the river to San Carlos; thence across Lake Nicaragua to Virgin Bay. Then by pack-mules they are taken to San Juan del Sud, on the Pacific. The distances on the river and lake are about equal, being about seventy-five miles each, and from twelve to fifteen miles by land. There is every facility for crossing here, there being several steamboats plying on the river and lake. Steamships enter the mouth of the San Juan River, and the river boats come along side, consequently passengers incur no expense in the transfer, and are not obliged to land, as the small steamboats take them immediately up the river. This route has the advantage, in distance, over the Panama route, of about one thousand miles; still, the passage from San Francisco to New York has, as yet, been accomplished in the shortest time by way of Panama.

Now, dear reader, having finished my business here, I am ready to return. I will not trouble you to make the journey back to Realejo in a cart, but as I promised to accompany you, we will take one _psychological_ leap, and salute our national flag in the main plaza of San Francisco.

Chapter Twenty-eighth.

SAIL FOR HOME--PASS THE “GOLDEN GATE,”--SAD CONDITION OF THE
PASSENGERS--GRAVES AT THE BASE OF THE SNOWY MOUNTAINS--LAND
RECEDES--LUXURIES ON BOARD--A DEATH AND BURIAL--ANOTHER
DEATH--WHALES AND PORPOISES _versus_ SERPENTS OF FIRE--THUNDER
STORM--DEATH OF DOCTOR REED--THREE DEAD BODIES FOUND ON BOARD--THE
SCURVY--FIVE OF THE PASSENGERS INSANE--EVILS OF THE CREDIT
SYSTEM--A CULTIVATED MIND DERANGED--MEMORY LOST--ITS CAUSE--THE
VICTIM UPON THE VERGE OF DEATH--HARPOONING PORPOISES--EXCITING
SPORT.

I had designed to leave San Francisco for home in the steamer of the 1st December, and had purchased my ticket with that view; but the steamer, being a foreign bottom, was unable to clear for another port in California, and having but small capacity for coal, I feared detention, and was induced to sell my ticket, and take passage in the ship Edward Everett, which was to sail on the 28th November, and which, I felt confident, would reach Panama in advance of the steamer. We were notified to be on board at 9 A.M.; and when Mr. Fairchild and myself reached the shore with our baggage, we saw the ship two miles out just preparing to swing from her moorings. We engaged two hardy “tars,” and were soon pulling off for her; we threaded our way through the shipping, and were doing our utmost as we saw the anchor of the Everett already up, her foresail aback, and she “turning on her heel,” preparatory to standing out to sea. We boarded her as she was under way. We passed the clippership Architect, which was just weighing anchor for Valparaiso; the captains saluted each other through their trumpets, and we passed on through the Golden Gate, with a fair breeze, assisted by the unerring ebb tide. The passengers, eighty in number, were all on deck to take a last look at the receding landscape.

It had been but a few short days since they first beheld this scene--since they first entered through this “Gate,” into the land of promise. They now look upon the same narrow passage, the same bold rocky coast, they had looked for with so much anxiety, and greeted with so much enthusiasm. But how different the feelings now! what a change! They were then accompanied by a brother or a friend, with high hopes and vigorous constitutions, looking forward with brilliant anticipations. But now the brother and friend are sleeping quietly at the base of yonder snow-capped mountain, and they are bearing the sad intelligence to the bereaved parents, brothers, and sisters. Instead of the vigorous constitutions, they are obliged to cling to the rigging for support, while they gaze for the last time upon the scene. With many it is the last time they are to view such a scene; their eyes are about to close upon the earth forever, to sleep beneath the bosom of the ocean. Many have not only sacrificed health, but are destitute of means, and are now reeling about the ship, endeavoring to earn their passage by their labor. Our ship seemed a hospital; three-fourths of all the passengers were invalids, some of them helpless. We drifted away before the wind, the mountains gradually disappearing from the horizon; one had lingered long, but as we descended from the crest of a mountain wave, we bid _it_ also, a last farewell. We spent the afternoon in adjusting our baggage, and the night in sleep; the morning dawned brightly--we were still under a full press of canvas, with a fair wind. All on board had taken passage under the impression that the accommodations were superior, for which they had paid extra. We consequently felt that we were well provided for, and fairly embarked on our voyage home. As usual the first day at sea, but little attention was paid to the cook, the passengers remaining cozily ensconced in their berths.

The 30th was ushered in with a fine breeze, and we were standing on our course. At noon we found the table supplied with hard bread (sea-biscuit) and salt beef, dainties that our stomachs did not relish; the same table was kept standing for supper. Captain Smith was interrogated in reference to his supply of provisions, for which we had paid him extra; he replied that he was abundantly supplied with the above, which, if we chose, we could have served up every day during the voyage; when too late, we learned that the delicacies for the sick, with which he had by public notice proclaimed his ship abundantly supplied, were “_non est_.” He had not even a pound of fruit on board; the invalids felt this privation most sensibly many of whom had come on board without supplies, having been led to believe by advertisements, that the ship had been furnished with a direct view to the comforts of those returning in ill-health. From the fare with which our table was supplied, it was impossible for a weak stomach to extract sufficient nutriment to sustain life. This was soon manifest, as those who were destitute immediately commenced to decline, and were soon confined to their berths. We could plainly see that the lives of some were fast ebbing away.

On the 6th December, in lat,. 22° 50´, North, it was announced that G. W. Ray, of Maine, was dead. He died at 10 A.M.; the gang-plank was placed, one end extending over the side of the ship, supported by the rail, the other supported by a cask, over this was thrown a piece of canvas, upon which was placed the corpse. A rope was tied around the body; thence, passing down was tied around the ancles, and to the end was attached a canvas bag, filled with sand. The body was then sewed up in the canvas, over which was thrown the ensign of California. The passengers now surround the corpse, with heads uncovered. A prayer is read by the captain, the ensign is removed, and at the word one end of the plank is raised, and the body passes gently into its grave. We are under a full press of canvas with an eight knot breeze; the last bubble rises to the surface, and the wind passes mournfully through the shrouds, as if sighing his last requiem.

At 8 P.M., of the same day, another death was announced. Deceased, Mr. Cook, was a young man from Sag Harbor, where he left a wife and child. One hour after the announcement of his death, he was consigned to the grave, that had so recently opened to receive his unfortunate companion. He was buried in Lat. 20° 50´, N.

We were surrounded during the day (7th) by whales and porpoises, and during the evening, as they would pass through the “luminous animalculæ,” they would present the appearance of enormous serpents of fire. On the 8th we were visited by a terrific thunder storm, accompanied by heavy winds. We run under close-reefed topsails; and when the storm clears up we find the wind dead ahead, and are obliged to run several days sharp on the wind.

On the morning of the 14th another death was announced; the deceased, Dr. Reed, of Massachusetts, had been, for some days, conscious of his approaching end, and manifested a strong desire to have his remains conveyed to his friends. This was his last and almost only request; the fear that this might not be complied with seemed to linger with him to the last, and died only with his last pulsation. He received some encouragement from the captain, but one short hour after his death, he followed his unfortunate companions to the grave. He was buried in Lat 16° 3’ N.

A report is in circulation that there are dead bodies on board. On inquiry, we learn that there are three--a man, a woman and child; they were preserved in casks of spirits, and being conveyed to the States. This created the greatest consternation in the minds of the sailors, and they unanimously resolved to leave the ship at the first port. They have a superstitious idea that vessels cannot be safely navigated with dead bodies on board. Many of the passengers were confined to their berths, some of them destined never again to leave them, until removed by death. The scurvy had appeared in its worst form, and there was nothing on board to relieve its victims. The food served out was most execrable; those in robust health were pining away, and for the invalids, there was no hope. Among the latter there were five who were deranged; they were all confined to their berths, and seemed waiting to be relieved by death. There is a physician on board, (whose father and captain Smith are sole owners of the ship), his services, however, are not at the disposition of all. The captain has flour, but pretends it does not belong to the ship, and refuses to serve it out to the passengers. He, however, offered to sell it, and two or three of us joined and bought a quantity of him, together with a quantity of sugar; all to be paid for in Panama, at Panama prices, and for all of which we _never had the most distant idea_ of paying him a farthing. We hired the cook to prepare it for us, and thereafter were well served. With this supply, we were in a condition to invite the invalids to our table, where we could furnish them something more palatable than sea-biscuit and salt beef.

My attention was attracted to one of the passengers, who, upon my inquiring for Spanish books, offered me one of Spanish comedy; there was something polished in his manners, yet something wayward, which very much excited my interest. His clothes were good, still, in his helplessness, they had become extremely filthy. He commenced conversation, but soon stopped for a moment, as if trying to recollect himself; and said he believed he had entirely lost his mind, that his ideas were so incoherent, he feared he could not make himself understood. He first inquired where the ship was bound; I informed him, and asked him how he came on board. He did not know, but said he was informed that he was to be sent home; he did not know why, nor from whom he received the information. He wished me to converse with him, and try to set him right; he gave me the keys to his trunks, and wished me to open them. I found them stored with clothing of the best quality, together with a well selected library of books, mathematical instruments, and materials for drawing: everything indicating a man of refinement and education. In his writing desk I found a patriotic poem, composed and read by him, on board the ship in which he sailed for California: on the anniversary of our national independence. I also found a daguerreotype; the sight of this seemed to awaken pleasing emotions. It contained the portraits of a lady and child; these he recognized as his wife and little daughter. By the sight of these, he was at first overcome; his wife appeared natural to him, but he had not the most distant idea of the age of his little daughter; he wondered if it was of a sufficient age, when he left home, to call him father, and whether it would remember and greet him when he returned. He now realized, most painfully, the gloom that hung like a pall over his memory. The sight of the articles as I would take them out, seemed to call up others, by association. The sight of rifle and pistol-balls reminded him that he had, somewhere, a rifle and revolver, where, he did not know. I requested him to run back in his memory, if possible, to the time when he first became deranged. He said that he was attacked with the fever at Benicia, and carried on board a ship that was then lying at anchor. There were several sick on board, and during his sickness, one was brought and placed on a table in front of his berth. He watched him day after day, until one night, as the light fell dimly on his pallid features, a slight convulsion passed over him, and his jaw fell. This closed the scene; from this moment his mind had been wandering in the dark labyrinths of forgetfulness. The fever had left him, and given place to that dreaded malady, the scurvy, with which he had now become reduced almost to helplessness. His feet and limbs were swollen to double their usual size, their purple hue denoting the fearful state to which his system was reduced. The name of this unfortunate man was E. W. Clark, Jr., of West Boylston, Mass. He gave me his name, and the address of his friends, at a time when he had but little hope of ever seeing them, with the request that I should write them the particulars of his death.

On the 16th, we were surrounded by porpoises; our first mate being an old harpooner, descended into the martingale of the ship, his harpoon being attached to a rope which passed through a tackle-block above, and was manned by about thirty passengers. At the first plunge of the ship, he “let go” the harpoon, taking effect in the back of a porpoise; “haul away,” and the huge monster was swinging in the air. This was a moment of intense excitement; the harpoon had passed almost through the body, but in hauling him from the water, it had drawn out, holding only to a half-inch of the skin. One struggle and he would have been released; but the auspicious moment passed, and at the word “ease away,” he was safely _shipped_ on our forecastle deck. His struggles now were fearful; his throes causing the very spars to tremble. He strikes another and another, both of which are safely drawn on board. He strikes a fourth, and after hauling it several feet from the water, it falls from the harpoon and rushes through the water, staining its wake with blood. We are now well supplied with fish, but of a kind not calculated to tempt the appetite.

Chapter Twenty-ninth.

CLOUD AND CLIPPERTON ISLANDS--WHALES, SHARKS, PORPOISES, AND
DOLPHINS--A SHARK CAPTURED--SHARK STEAK--“CAUDLE LECTURE”--DEATH OF
SAMUEL B. LEWIS--A CALM--FOOT RACES BY THE SHIP’S
FURNITURE--PASSENGER PECULIARITIES--SHORT OF PROVISIONS--“BOUT
SHIP”--FIRST OF JANUARY--ITS LUXURIES AT SEA--A TAME SEA-FOWL--A
PASSENGER DYING--A SHARK--A DELIGHTFUL EVENING SCENE--A
DEATH--BURIAL AT SEA BY CANDLE LIGHT--A TURTLE NAVIGATING THE
OCEAN--HIS SUSPICIOUS CONDUCT--A WRITTEN PROTEST AGAINST THE
CAPTAIN--COCUS ISLAND--CAPTURING “BOOBIES.”

On the 17th, we passed under the lea of Cloud island--lat. 19°, long. 103°. 21st; passed Clipperton island, lat. 11°, long. 103°. The air is filled with sea-fowl; the island is a rocky pile, having the appearance of a dilapidated castle; and is surrounded by a low sandy beach. We are surrounded by whales, sharks, porpoises and dolphins; our first mate strikes a porpoise at midnight, and it is hauled on deck by the crew.

On the 22d, the mate struck a shark; it was hauled on deck, and we had shark-steak for breakfast. All out with the captain, and the lectures he receives are only equalled by those of the amiable “Mrs. Caudle.” He finds himself wofully in the minority, and confines himself to his state-room. We not only charge the adverse winds to his account, but the destitution of the ship; of his guilt of the latter charge, the jury were unanimous.

24th. The death of Samuel B. Lewis is announced. He was buried at 9 A.M., lat. 6°-12´ north. He was from Elmira, N. Y., where he leaves a widowed mother to mourn his untimely death. On my return, I learned that subsequent to his starting for California, his father was accidently killed; the mother wrote for her son; he was her only solace; upon him she leaned for consolation; but on a dreary night, as the wind howled mournfully without, she dreamed her son returned, and as she was about to clasp him to her bosom, he shrunk from her sight and disappeared forever.

We have a calm for several days with intense heat; a general restlessness is felt, passengers are out of patience; our ship has not sufficient headway to cause her to mind the tiller; she rolls about like a log, now plunging, throwing her sails all aback, now rising on a sea, the rigging slackens, the spars and yards creak, the sails again fill, and everything is again drawn to its utmost tension; she again plunges, reers, and rises lengthwise of a sea; she careens and is thrown almost upon her “beam-ends.” Trunks change sides, tables stand on their heads, barrels get up foot-races, much to the annoyance of the passengers, who, with shins in hand, enter most vehement protests, throwing in, an occasional oath by way of emphasis. Jack “yarns” on the forecastle, Tom has out a shark-hook; the cook has been mast-headed by the captain; T----n comes down from the shrouds with a “damn my shirt-tail _to_ h--l,” looks at his boots and goes up again; Wright exclaims, “certingly.” Palmly looks from under his quaker hat, and swears at the captain; the Dutchman, with red whiskers, opens his mouth, which very much resembles a cavity in a brick-kiln; he looks an oath in Dutch, but don’t speak. To calm our ruffled passions we were informed that we were short of provisions, and were to be put upon allowance.

On the 28th, the captain gave the order, “bout ship,” and we stood in for the main land, 550 miles distant, lat. 6°, long. 96°. On the 29th, a fine breeze springs up, we again change our course and stand east, in the direction of Panama.

January 1st, 1850, lat. 6°, long. 9°; heat most oppressive; we have hard fare for breakfast, same for dinner and supper. Oh, ye knights of “Gotham!” did we not envy you? You, who are now cloyed with luxuries and greeted by the smiles of friends, but little dream that he who, twelve months ago, was your companion, has this moment dined upon sea-bread that has become the home of vermin, and beef on about the fourth anniversary of its salting, boiled in ocean-water.

A small bird flies on board in an exhausted condition; it is quite tame and eats food from our hands. Our inquiries in reference to its home and destination, were in vain; it remained on board during the day, and seemed to appreciate our kindness.

It is rumored that one of our passengers is dying; a shark is at this moment passing under the bow of the ship, as if anticipating his prey. 4th, rainy morning; it clears up at one, and we have a most delightful evening; a heavy cloud settles around the horizon, leaving us, as it were, in a lake as calm as a mirror. I never witnessed a more beautiful scene; I am, however, in no humor to enjoy it. This is our thirty-eighth day out, and the prospects most discouraging; I am over due at home, and half the journey yet to be performed.

At 7 P.M. it was announced that Wm. F. Capron, of Palmyra, N. Y., was dead; he was sewed up in a canvas shroud, and thirty minutes after his death, with lights on deck, in latitude 6° 34´ N., he was consigned to the ocean.

5th. Delightful morning, with fine breeze. We saw a large turtle floating on the surface of the water, asleep; we lowered a boat, and pulled off for him, but he awoke, and suspecting our movements, applied his propellers with great dexterity, and diving toward the bottom he was soon out of sight. He probably hailed from Cocus Island, distant one hundred and twenty miles; his object in cruising in these waters we were unable to learn. It being Monday, it was shrewdly suspected that he had been out, on the previous night, in search of bright eyes. His being asleep in the middle of the day, and his apparent _embarrassment_ on being discovered, were evidence upon which almost any jury would have convicted him.

6th. Calm, heat insupportable, and we are short of provisions. I have a warm conversation with the captain, and draw up a protest, have it signed by the passengers, designing to lay it before the consul at Panama.

PROTEST.

We, the undersigned, passengers on board the ship Edward Everett,
Capt. HENRY SMITH, do hereby most solemnly aver that we were
induced to take passage on said ship by representations made by
said Capt. Smith and his agents, which representations were, that
he had on board an extra supply of ship-stores, and that extra
provisions had been made for the comfort of passengers. For this
_extra provision_ an extra charge of $100 in the first, and $25 in
the second cabin, had been made, above that of any vessel sailing
from the same port for the same destination, during the present
season.

The above-named Capt. Smith, through public advertisements and
otherwise, called the attention of invalids _particularly_, to the
superior arrangements made for their comfort, that a physician
would be in attendance, &c.

Immediately upon getting under weigh we learned, to our sorrow,
that we had been grossly deceived; that the above representations
were false. Our provisions, many of them, were damaged, and, we
were credibly informed, were purchased as such at San Francisco. Of
some of the articles that are indispensable at sea, we were short,
and immediately put upon allowance.

Some of the passengers had made arrangements to work their passage,
but upon first putting to sea were unable to do duty. The Captain
called upon them in person, ordering them from their berths and on
duty, threatening, in case of non-compliance, to put them ashore on
the first island. Mr. Saml. B. Lewis, of Elmira, N. Y., who was
working his passage as under-steward, was compelled to do duty when
unable, and finally compelled to take to his berth, from which he
never arose. Just previous to his death he manifested a wish to see
the Captain, and said, “If I die my blood will be upon the
Captain’s head.”

The invalids, being compelled to live on the coarse fare of the
steerage, suffered for want of nourishing food, of which the ship
was entirely destitute, there not being a particle of dried fruit,
preserved meats, wines, or any one of the articles thought
indispensably necessary on ship-board.

The physician, (whose father and Captain Smith were the owners of
the ship,) paid no other attention to the sick than dealing out
medicines, which he did _only_ at the most exorbitant charges. In
some instances, passengers, after having been sick for days without
nourishment, were obliged to buy flour of the Captain at exorbitant
prices, and cook with their own hands something to sustain life.

There have been five deaths on board, during the voyage. Wm. F.
Capron, of Palmyra, N. Y., we do most solemnly believe died for
want of proper nourishment; and in the case of Wm. B. Lewis, we
believe he was brought to a premature death, by treatment received
at the hands of the Captain, together with the want of proper
nourishment after his prostration.

Aside from the above unheard-of conduct, Capt. Smith went to sea
without a single life or quarter-boat, consequently entirely
unprepared to save life in case of accident, showing a recklessness
of human life in the highest degree reprehensible, which should not
be passed over in silence.

We regret exceedingly that we are obliged to make the above charges
against an American Captain, a class of men so justly celebrated
for philanthropy and kindness; but the circumstances under which we
are placed leave no alternative; and we hereby most respectfully
request that our Consul at Panama will immediately enforce the law
in this case, believing that a few public examples will put an end
to the abuse.

AT SEA, _January 6th, 1850, lat. 6° N., lon. 92° W._, having sailed
from San Francisco, 28th November, 1849.

(_Signed_,)

ROBT. N. TATE, First Mate of Ship Edward Everett.

J. M. LETTS, N. Y. N. N. RAPELYE, “ J. R. THORNE, “ J. H. R. FAIRCHILD, “ W. COOK, Mo. WM. TANNER, “ J. SCORBOUGH, “ J. H. HESS, “ J. J. STARKY, Iowa. R. H. CALDWELL, Ohio. J. K. TURK, “ D. MCCULLY, Iowa. C. L. HOAG, N. Y. J. H. MUMBY, “ A. RILEY, “ GEO. N. SEYMOUR, “ JAS. REED, M. D., “ H. MARKS, “ S. H. STEVENS, “ J. F. ALLEN, “ J. GAFFNEY, N. J. J. PIERSON, “ P. D. ELMENDORF, “ G. SILLCOCKE, “ G. A. BARNES, Ind. J. C. CORWIN, Mo. F. MINTON, “ B. SWART, “ M. Z. SUZEE, “ J. TURNER, “ Z. REDWIN, “ J. ALBRIGHT, “ J. L. SIMMONS, “ S. D. BALDWIN, “ B. HOLT, “ J. N. YORK, “ J. N. CLAUSON, Mo. J. D. MOTT, “ R. N. SULLIVAN, Mass. J. H. GREEN, “ J. H. FICKET, “ J. R. FOSTER, “ J. M. RICHNEY, Ill. J. SHARP, Ohio. L. H. MCGEE, “ S. HEATH, Me. C. B. CASTELLA, Ky. H. S. SHOUDY, “ WM. E. JUDD, Md. ROBT. HOLLAND, Conn. F. P. BERKEN, N. O. H. STARKFLEET, “ J. P. PETERSON, “ J. B. HALL, Pa. J. WILLIAMSON, “ S. GRIFFIN, Va.

7th. Pass within forty miles of Cocus Island.

8th. Indication of land; a cloud of “boobies” surround the ship,
lighting on the spars and rigging; we divert ourselves by tying
clubs to fishing lines, throwing them around their necks, and
hauling them in. They appeared to enter into the sport with as much
zeal as ourselves, for upon being released they would fly around,
and seem to say, “do it again.”

Chapter Thirtieth.

INTENSE HEAT--HUMAN NATURE AS EXHIBITED BY THE PASSENGERS--DANGER,
NOT APPREHENDED--A TATTLER--A “DUTCH JUSTICE”--“LONG TOM COFFIN”--A
QUAKER HAT--AN INDIVIDUAL RUNNING WILD--HIS OATHS, DEPREDATIONS,
MUSICAL ACCOMPLISHMENTS, SHOWMAN PROPENSITIES, AND PUGILISTIC
DEVELOPMENTS--“BLUBBER,” BUCKSKIN, AND “THE LAST RUN OF SHAD”--A
CAPSIZED WHALE-BOAT--THRILLING SENSATION--HARPOON USED--A
SHARK--“LAND HO!”--GULF OF PANAMA--SOUTH AMERICAN COAST--“SAIL
HO!”--DOLPHIN FOR DINNER--A WHALE--A TERRIFIC GALE--OUR SAILS AND
SPARS CARRIED AWAY.

January 8th. CALM with intense heat. Our ship rolls about at the mercy of the sea, the spars creaking, and the sails displaying as little ambition as if they designed to enfold the yards in an eternal sleep. This example of tranquillity was but illy followed by the passengers; it appeared to foment their passions, bringing the evil ones to the surface. Each was disposed to demand an apology from his neighbor for wrongs either real or imaginary, (mostly of the latter;) the neighbor declaiming, in the most vehement manner, that he is the injured party.

What a motley group! what an exposition of the dissimilarity of human nature! Here are my friends Fairchild and Seymour, all they should be, disposed to look upon the brightest side of the picture; McG. offering $100 for the strength he once had; “he would whip that d--d Englishman,” the Englishman, at the same time, swelling and blowing about, with the pomp and glory of “Old England” flitting through his imagination, quite ignorant of his impending danger. Gates, on the alert for news for the captain’s ear, for which he gets an occasional cup of coffee, together with the universal detestation of the passengers; the “Dutch Justice” strutting about with all the pomp of brainless vanity; the professor, learned in love, law, and physic, which comprises, in his estimation, all that can be learned in this world; “Long Tom Coffin,” the very “beau ideal” of the hero himself, stretched out on the quarter-deck, very much resembling a pair of oyster-tongs. He had Blackstone and Kent at his tongue’s end, and swore that, on his arrival in Maine, he would prefer a “BRIEF” for the captain’s especial edification; P----ly, sitting under a quaker hat, as forbidding in appearance as he is in fact, damning all indiscriminately who differ with him in opinion. T----n, who in attempting to relate an occurrence commences at the last word, throwing the balance on the top of it, in the most unintelligible confusion. He is about twenty-one years of age, has been well brought up, with a good education, but is now running wild. He blacks his boots and starts for mast-head; half-way up, he halts, looks at his boots, suspects that they might have received a higher polish, and with a “d--n my shirt-tail to h--l,” comes down again. He discovers some one’s can of preserved meat; he takes it to the cook, and soon _some one_ is invited to dine with him, and if he discovers _some one’s_ bottle of wine, some one is _almost_ sure to get _one_ glass of it. He had a passion for music, but generally sung in parodies, as follows:

I’m sitting on a stile, Mary,
Not knowing where to jump;
My foot it slipped, I caught a fall,
And struck upon a stump,
Ittee bump, ittee bump, ittee bump.

almost indefinitely, closing up with “well, well, d--n my shirt-tail to h--l, d--n it _to_ h--l,” and again starting for mast-head; he would probably reach the first yard, when a new idea, and he would be again on deck, playing superintendent of a caravan, with “John, take that little monkey from his mother, or he will _suck_ her to death, not that I wish to disturb the animals in their innocent amusements, but by G--d the public eye must be respected; music, ting-a-ling, ting-a-ling, well, well, &c.” He is now interrupted by “Blubber,” alias “Livingston & Wells’ Express;” a short quarrel, and they square off for a fight. Blubber is backed by Buckskin, alias “the last run of shad,” and they don’t fight.

We have a steward that knows his place, and another that does not deserve one on this earth; a cook who has not been accused of washing himself during the voyage, and one who appears never to have been guilty of the act. A negro who knows his place and keeps it, a white man, his neighbor, assuming everybody’s place but his own; one man with no appetite, another creating a famine in his immediate neighborhood; five crazy men, fifty invalids, a penurious doctor, two mates--Tate and Barry--noblemen of nature’s own make, and a captain who was made afterwards. In one thing _only_ were we unanimous, which was the condemnation of sailing vessels in general, and the “Everett” in particular, including her captain.

11th. We discover something near the horizon resembling a capsized whale-boat. This causes a great sensation; the first mate mans the quarter-boat and pulls off for the object. The passengers watch most intently, the little craft as it rises upon the crest of a mountain-wave, and now disappearing, again rises to our view, still nearing the object in the distance. As they approach still nearer, through the ship’s glass, we see fowls rising from it, and now the mate, standing in the bow, elevates the harpoon, as if to strike. A large sea-fowl still clings to the object; as they approach still nearer, it flies. The mate throws the harpoon and soon they are returning to the ship. They pronounced the object a pine-log. They have a Dolphin and several small fish; a cry of shark, and a large one passes along the weather side, four are following astern, accompanied by their pilots. We use the harpoon, but without success.

12th. 4 A.M., cry of “land ho!” I dress and go on deck; we are in sight of Points Mala and Puerco, at the entrance to the gulf of Panama, 100 miles from the city. A steamer is just passing the point into the gulf; a strong wind is blowing off the land, and west and in, running close on the wind. We beat all night, and in the morning find ourselves in the same position.

13th. Wind still dead ahead; after standing in and nearing the South American coast, we put about on the other tack; the wind soon “hauls,” and we stand directly for the point and soon enter the mouth of the gulf. At 4 P.M., mate cries out from mast-head, “sail ho!” “How does she bear?” “Two points off leeward bow, sir.” Delightful sunset; a school of porpoises are tumbling about in ecstasies.

14th. Pleasant morning; we are just off the inner point. A fine breeze blows off, our ship bows to the impulse, and we stand along under the lee of the land. Cry of dolphin, captain strikes one with the harpoon, it struggles with the instrument, disengages itself, and disappears in the direction of the bottom; he strikes another, it is hauled safely on board and served up for dinner. A whale passes, but not sufficiently near to receive our salutation. 4 P.M., it blows a gale, captain cries out, “clue up the top-gallantsail,” “aye, aye, sir.” During the night we have a terrific gale; it carries away our jib, foretop-sail, foretop-gallantsail, maintop-staysail, and maintop-gallantsail.

15th. The gale still continues; we are driven out of sight of land, but arrive in sight of the South American coast at 3 P.M., the Andes towering up, hiding themselves in the clouds.