Chapter M (11)

They were now four ships in company; Captain Swan and his tender, and Captain Townley and his tender. These were all properly stationed to gain intelligence; but, provisions growing short, Captain Townley’s bark was dispatched with 60 men to traverse the coast to the westward of the Cape, in search of some town or village where their wants might be supplied. On the 17th the bark returned, being unable to weather the cape, or make any useful discovery. She had left, however, four canoes with 46 men, who determined to double the cape, or perish in the attempt.

On the 18th, all the ships quitted their stations, and sailed for the island of Chametley, about 16 or 18 leagues to the eastward of the cape, to take in wood and water. On these islands live the fishermen, who, as the Spaniards say, fish for the inhabitants of the city of Purification. On the 20th, they anchored between the islands and the main in five fathom water, clear sand. Here they caught plenty of rock-fish, but saw no inhabitants. On the 21st Captain Townley with about 60 men went to an Indian village about seven or eight leagues to the westward, to endeavour to procure provisions; and next day Captain Swan returned to his station off the cape. On the 24th, the four canoes who had doubled the cape, returned to the cruisers, and reported, that they had rowed to the bay of the valley of Valderas, or Val d’ Iris, and had landed in the garden of the world, where they found fruits of the most delicious flavour growing wild in the plains, and where the cattle were feeding at large among the streams of water that flowed meandering in the savannas, and lost their waters among the finest groves of trees they ever beheld; but when they marched in pursuit of the beeves that were every where straying in the vallies, they were suddenly surrounded by a body of Spaniards, who briskly attacked them, some on foot, and some on horseback. They made a gallant defence, and suddenly retreated into an adjoining wood, where they were followed by the Spanish horse. These were armed each with a case of pistols, and some of them, besides their pistols, had short guns. The English, being covered by the trees, made use of their fire-arms with advantage; and, after killing about 17 of the assailants, and wounding several others, the rest being unsupported by the foot, fled with precipitation. In this skirmish four English were shot dead, besides two desperately wounded; and, not daring again to attempt the valley, they killed a horse, and, having satisfied their hunger, they returned to their canoes.

On the 25th, being Christmas-day, they cruised close to the cape, and sent in three of their strikers to kill fish. In the afternoon they returned with three great jew-fish, which afforded them all a Christmas-dinner. Captain Townley on the 28th came to his station, and brought with him 40 bushels of maize, which he had seized at an Indian village four or five leagues up the country, and which his men were obliged to carry all that way on their backs.

They cruised till the 1st of January, 1686, off Corientes, and then steered towards the valley of Valderas, in order to furnish themselves with beef; and before night they anchored in 60 fathom water a mile from the shore. The next day they landed, dividing themselves into two parties; one party posted themselves on the hills to watch the motions of the Spaniards, while the other party traversed the vallies to kill the cattle. The Spaniards frequently presented themselves in companies, but did not dare to come near enough to engage. They continued here till the 7th, in which time they had killed and salted beef enough for two months allowance for their whole company, and, had not their salt failed them they might have stored themselves with much more.

They now gave over all farther expectation of the Manilla ship, it being the general opinion that she had escaped (as they were afterwards assured she had) while the ships were employed in seeking provisions. “So this design failed,” says Dampier, “through Captain Townley’s eagerness after the Lima ship, which he attempted in Acapulco harbour. For though,” adds he, “we took a little flour hard by, yet the same guide who told us of the Lima ship, would have conducted us where we might have had store of beef and maize; but instead thereof we lost both our time and the opportunity of providing ourselves, and so were forced to be victualling when we should have been cruizing, to the total ruin of the enterprize.”

Being now provided with beef in abundance, and having taken in wood and water in proportionable quantities, the two commanders, Swan and Townley, having separate views, though united in this one grand object of intercepting the Manilla ship, thought proper to part company, Captain Swan intending to steer westward, and Captain Townley to return eastward. Hitherto a Moskito chief with three of his men had sailed with Captain Swan, but being now about to depart never more to return to their country, he was desirous of recommending them to the care of Captain Townley, who being bound to the coast of Peru, might there put them on shore at some convenient place, from whence they might travel over land to the North Sea. This Captain Townley undertook to perform; and the ships being now under sail, they saluted each other, and parted.

Our navigator continued to sail with Captain Swan. Before night they passed Point Pontique, which forms the westernmost point of the bay, distant from Cape Corientes about twenty leagues. This point is in lat. 20 deg. 50 min. N. a league to the westward of which are two barren islands, called the islands of Pontique. Beyond these islands the land trends to the northward, presenting a very rugged unpleasant appearance as far as the eye can extend the prospect. On the 14th, they came in sight of a small white rock in lat. 21 deg. 15 min. N. which at a distance seemed like a ship under sail. From this island the land runs full more northerly, and the sea tumbles in with such violence upon the shore, that for many leagues together there is no landing; there is, however, every where good anchoring as far as the islands of Chametley. These islands are six in number, and different from those of the same name on the east of Cape Corientes, being a little within the Tropic of Cancer, and not above three leagues from the main. On these islands grows a fruit called the penguin, of which there are two sorts, the yellow and the red. The yellow grows on a thick stem about a foot high, the leaves narrow and about half the length of the stem edged with prickles. The fruit grows out from the top of the stem in two or three large clusters, 16 or 20 in a cluster. It is round and in size like a small pullet’s egg; the outer coat is thick and tough, and the pulp in the inside is full of little black seeds. The red penguin is in shape like a little nine-pin; grows up on stools from the ground in clusters of 60 or 70 on a stool, standing upright like the leaves of houseleek, and are smaller than the yellow: they are surrounded by leaves a foot and a half long, edged with prickles like the former. They have a sharp pungent taste, are very wholesome; but those who eat of them immoderately find them heating. They grow wild, and in the bay of Campeachy Dampier says they are so plentiful, that one can hardly range the plains for their prickly leaves.

From these islands Captain Swan embarked 100 men in canoes, and went himself in search of Coolican, a river in the province of Cullacan, with a town of considerable trade (probably that marked Pastla in the Spanish maps) upon its banks, the inhabitants whereof pass in boats to the island of California and fish for pearls. They coasted along the shore as far as lat. 24 deg. N. but found no river; and after three or four days absence returned without making any discovery.

A few leagues to the N.N.W. of Chametley is a narrow entrance into a lake, called by the Spaniards Rio de Sal, which runs about 12 leagues easterly, parallel with the shore, forming many low mangrove islands, and having depth of water every where for boats to row along its banks. In this lake Captain Swan entered, accompanied by 150 of his men in 12 canoes. In his progress he observed a grazing farm, and landing some of his men, they found the house deserted, and the cattle driven away. On proceeding further along the lake, two Indians were seen running at some distance, whom they took for spies, and having discharged a volley of small arms, one of them was wounded in the thigh, and not being able to continue his race, was seized by a party landed for that purpose who brought him on board. He informed them, that, about four leagues from the place where they there were, an Indian town was situated in a savanna, abounding with cattle. The company were scarcely landed to go in search of this town before they were attacked by a body of Spanish horse, who not being properly armed, made but a faint opposition, and suddenly retired. While the English were in pursuit, the enemy played off a stratagem that greatly annoyed them. We have already mentioned, in the voyages of Captain Sir Francis Drake, the nature of the grass that covers the savannas on the isthmus of Darien between the North and the South Seas. Such was the grass with which the pursuers were surrounded, when the Spaniards set it on fire, and, being dry as stubble, it burnt with astonishing fury, and spread with such rapidity, that it was with the utmost difficulty the whole party escaped being involved in the flames. This disaster not only made them more cautious, but occasioned a delay, which gave the Spaniards time to collect their force and to make a more formidable opposition. When the English arrived the next day at the village of which they had intelligence, they found it occupied by an armed garrison, whom it was necessary to overcome before they could enter; but as the Spaniards were, for the most part, destitute of fire-arms, and the Indians wholly unexperienced in their use, the advantage the English derived from that circumstance soon decided the contest in their favour. The enemy fled after the loss of some of their leaders, and left the conquerors master of the place, having only one man killed with an arrow, and their surgeon sorely wounded.

They were told by their prisoners, that, about five leagues from the town of which they were now in possession, two rich gold mines were wrought by Indian slaves belonging to the Spaniards of Compostella, the most considerable Spanish city in that district. It was not now a time to search for gold, when they were in want of every kind of food, except the beef they had cured at Valderas. Their chief search was now for maize, and having plundered the village of all they could find, they conveyed it to their boats with great labour; and next day quitted the lake, and returned on board the ships. This lake is laid down in latitude 23 deg. 30 min. N.

On the 2d of February, Captain Swan made another excursion with 80 men in search of the river Rosario, at the entrance of which they landed, and marched to an Indian town of the same name. Here they were told, that the gold mines were not above two leagues from the town; but, like the cock in the fable, they rejected the pearl and chose the barley-corn; about 90 bushels of maize, and the other provisions they found in the place, though insufficient for the purpose of their intended voyage, were yet of more value in their present necessity than all the gold of Compostella.

On the 3d the ships came to an anchor off the river’s mouth of Rosario, in seven fathom water, oozy ground, in lat. 22 deg. 51 min. N.

On the 7th, the Captain with his company came on board. The quantity of provisions which he had procured was but trifling for so many men; he therefore sent the next day a party in search of the river Oleta, but they returned without having found it. The river St. Jago was next attempted, and on the 11th they anchored in seven fathom water near the mouth of it, three leagues E. S. E. of the white rock of Maxentelbo, the high hill of Zelisco bearing S. E. This is one of the principal rivers upon the coast, and lies in latitude 22 deg. 15 min. N.

On the 11th, 70 men were sent up the river to make discoveries; they spent two days in examining the creeks and inlets, and at length came to a large field of maize which they had begun to gather, when they spied an Indian who had been sent to watch the corn, whom they seized and carried on board, in hopes of gaining from him some intelligence, by which they might obtain a more effectual and speedy supply. He told them, there was a town called Santa Pecaque, about four leagues from the place where he was taken, in which there was great store of provisions, and to which he undertook to be their guide. Captain Swan, overjoyed at the news, ordered 140 men to be instantly embarked on board the canoes, and to proceed with the Indian as he should direct. After rowing five leagues up the river, they came in sight of the town, when they landed in the night, and next morning set out on their march by land. About 10, they had advanced within musket-shot; and, having dispatched a party to reconnoitre, they found the town deserted, and entered it without opposition.

The town of Santa Pecaque is seated near the side of a wood in a spacious plain, neatly built, with a square in the middle, on each side of which the houses are furnished with balconies, from whence the inhabitants, in general, are spectators of the frequent processions exhibited by the Spanish priests, in order to convert the Indians, who are now almost all become christians in the Spanish settlements. The town, though small, has two churches; and they were told, that about 70 white families constantly resided in it, besides those who occasionally came there as carriers from the mines, and as merchants from Compostella. These carriers furnish the adjacent miners with maize, sugar, salt, and salt-fish, of all which there was great plenty in Santa Pecaque.

Captain Swan being acquainted by an express with the success of this expedition, and with the opportunity that now offered to supply his wants, hastened to the town to give the necessary orders. When he arrived, he divided his men into two parties; one party he employed in conveying the provisions to the boats; the other in plundering and packing up. These he relieved alternately; and when both parties were wearied out with this laborious service, they caught horses, and, having laden them with maize, dispatched them under a strong escort down to the canoes.

On the 17th, when they arrived, they found the men who guarded the canoes in high spirits, though they had been attacked by the Spaniards, and had one man desperately wounded. The party that escorted the horses thought it adviseable, however, to reinforce the canoe-guard, lest the Spaniards should renew the attack. Next day they returned to the town, and the party left therein were preparing to convoy more maize to the canoes; but, before they set out, Captain Swan understood by an Indian whom they had made prisoner, that 1000 men were in arms in order to attack them, and that they were already advanced within three leagues of the place. Upon this intelligence, the Captain advised all his men to load as much maize as they could altogether bear away, and instantly to depart in a body. With this advice they absolutely refused to comply, being determined not to leave Santa Pecaque while a load of provisions remained within it. It was in vain to endeavour to persuade those whom he could not punish for disobeying orders; and, therefore, on the 19th, he suffered 50 of them to depart with as many loaded horses; exhorting them, however, to march in a body, that they might be the better able to defend themselves against any sudden surprize. They were equally deaf to advice and instruction; they pursued their old course, marching in a line, and every one leading a single horse. The Spaniards had remarked their manner of marching, and had placed themselves in ambush the preceding night. They had scarce travelled half a league before they were suddenly set upon, and every man cut to pieces before they could assemble to prepare for their defence. Captain Swan, who had heard the firing, hastened with his party to the place of action; but on his approach he was struck with horror at the sight of such a number of his followers weltering in their blood, stript of their arms, and divested of their charge. The Spaniards, after the slaughter, having possest themselves of their musquets, &c. seized also the loaded horses, and instantly fled. Though the party commanded by Captain Swan did not exceed the number of those already slain, yet they were suffered to pass unmolested to the canoes, on board of which they embarked, and, with the provisions they had already secured, returned to the ships. Among the slain on this occasion was Mr. Ringrose, who wrote that part of the history of the buccaneers that relates to Captain Sharpe.

The slaughter of this unfortunate party dampt the spirits of the survivors, and discouraged them from attempting any farther descents upon this coast. It was therefore determined to steer directly for Cape St. Lucas on the island of California, where they might lie secure from the attacks of the Spaniards, till the men were refreshed, and the ships put in a condition to undertake a new voyage.

The lake of California (for so it is called in the Spanish charts) is either very little known to the Spaniards, or very carefully concealed. Though they have mines open already more than they can work, in Mexico, Chili, and Peru, yet they are very unwilling to allow other European powers to share the treasures of those countries, though they themselves cannot exhaust them; nor is it at all likely that any considerable advantages will ever be made by others, till by some lucky chance a nearer passage into those seas is discovered. “Were I,” says Dampier, “to attempt a North-west passage, I would go first to the South Seas, bend my course from thence along by California, and that way seek a passage into the Western Seas. If I succeeded in my attempt, I should then be without that dread which others must have had of passing from a known to an unknown region; and which, it is not improbable, obliged them to relinquish the pursuit just as they were on the point of accomplishing their designs. In like manner,” he adds, “were I to be employed in search of a North-east passage, I would winter about Japan, Conca, or the North-east part of China; and taking the spring and summer before me, I would make my first trial on the coast of Tartary, wherein if I succeeded I should come into some known part, and have a great deal of time before me to reach Archangel or some other European harbour.”

On the 21st they set sail, directing their course for California; but, being opposed by contrary winds, were unable to reach their destined port, and obliged to put in at the Maria islands, in latitude 21 deg. 40 min. N. distant about 40 leagues from Cape St. Lucas, and 20 from Cape Corientes. These islands are three in number, and they came to an anchor at the east end of the middlemost in five fathom water, clear sand; where, as soon as they moored their ships, they instantly began to unrig them, in order to careen.

Here Captain Swan proposed to his company to return home by way of the East Indies, which was highly approved by some, and as violently opposed by others, who, being ignorant, imagined, as Dampier says, that he would carry them out of the world. At first coming they lived upon nothing but seal; but in two or three days their strikers furnished them plentifully with turtle; and they likewise killed guanicoes, conies, and large pigeons; so that they consumed none of their ship provisions during their stay. While the sailors were working upon the ships, the officers employed themselves in surveying the stores and measuring the maize; which they divided into three parts, and allotted two parts to the ship, and one part to the bark, the ship carrying one hundred men, the bark only fifty.

Here Dampier, who had been long ill of the dropsy, tried a very uncommon remedy. He stripped himself stark naked, laid himself down upon the hot sand, and caused the surgeon to cover him all but his head; in this manner he lay near half an hour; but being unable to endure it any longer, he was carried to his tent and put to bed. While he was in the sand he sweat immoderately, and to that operation he ascribes the recovery of his health.

They staid till the 26th, when their ships being clean, they sailed to the valley of Valderas, in order to take in fresh water. Here they came to an anchor at the mouth of the river where they had anchored before; but, now that the dry season prevailed, they found the water brackish, and unfit for use. They then weighed, and, coming to a fine fresh-water brook at the foot of a little round hill about four leagues from Cape Corientes, they filled on the 29th 32 tons of excellent water, a quantity sufficient to serve their voyage.

Being provided with every thing they had reason to expect in this country, they now began seriously to consider of the possibility of performing their intended voyage. Upon a nice calculation, they found they had only 60 days provisions on board, at a little more than half a pint of maize a-day for each man; they had a great many rats on board, which they could not prevent from consuming a part of the maize; they had, according to the Spanish account, more than 7000 miles to run from Cape Corientes to Guam, the nearest land; and, that island being subject to the Spaniards, they had no certainty of a supply when they came there. All these discouragements staggered the most forward of them; and nothing could prevail with the majority but a promise from Captain Swan to cruise off Manilla, to intercept the register ship, as soon as they should arrive in the proper station. To this condition Captain Swan was forced to submit, though much against his inclination; for he had no mind to commence plunderer at first; and now he was heartily tired of the trade.

On the 31st of March, 1686, they took their departure from Cape Corientes, the Cygnet, Captain Swan, with 100 men; and the bark, Captain Teat, with 50. At first they steered with a small land breeze at E. N. E. which carried them three or four leagues; then the sea-wind came on at W. N. W. and changed their course S. W. By six o’clock in the evening they were nine leagues S. W. from the cape. About 10 the next morning they had the sea-breeze at N. N. E. so that at noon they were 30 leagues from the cape. It then blew a fresh gale, which carried them into the true trade-wind. At first they had it at N. N. E. and then northerly. At 250 leagues from the shore it settled at E. N. E., and there stood till they came within 40 leagues of Guam.

After the second day of their departure, having fine clear weather, and a fresh trade-wind, they crouded all the sail they could spread, and had frequently observations of the sun, moon, and stars; so that they could calculate their longitudinal distance by way of amusement almost every day. At their first setting out they steered into the latitude of 13 deg. N. and it is remarkable, that in a run of more than 6700 miles in this latitude they saw none of those small islands that are so plentifully interspersed in the same latitude on the opposite side of the Line; nor did Commodore Anson, who afterwards pursued the same track from Acapulco, see land till he arrived at the island of Tinian. As they run at a great rate, and the wind had every appearance of continuing, after being at sea about 20 days, the men began to grow clamorous to have their allowance enlarged; with which the Captain was forced to comply, though he endeavoured to persuade them to patience, and represented to them the danger of being becalmed, of missing their intended port, or of being refused a supply when they arrived. But none of these could prevail. The cry was for an augmentation, and an augmentation they had. Till the 20th of April their allowance was eight spoonfuls of boiled maize a man; but after that it was enlarged to ten. Dampier, who, as has been before noticed, had long been troubled with a dropsical disorder, gathered strength by this spare regimen; but those who were in full health it very much weakened. He says, he constantly drank three times a-day; but there were many on board who did not drink once in nine or ten days, and some not in twelve; one in particular did not drink in 17 days, and then said he was not a-dry, though he made water every day. Amidst these hardships one poor fellow was found guilty of theft, and sentenced to receive three stripes with a two-inch rope on his bare back from every man in the ship. Captain Swan, Dampier says, began first, and struck with a hearty good will, and his example was followed by all the rest; a punishment that must make every feeling mind shudder.

Though by the Spanish account the distance from Cape Corientes to Guam is said to be 2400 leagues, or 7200 English miles, yet Captain Swan had persuaded his men, that, by the English account the distance was only 1900 leagues; and that, as Drake and Cavendish had run it in less than 50 days each, they with better built ships might run it even in less than either of them: when, therefore, they had run the 1900 leagues, and the 50 days were nearly expired, they began to grow very mutinous and those who had declared against the voyage from the beginning, exclaimed bitterly against the Captain, and against all those who had persuaded them to undertake it. They had, during this long run of 6000 miles, seen neither fish, fowl, bird, or insect, except once when, at the distance of 4975 miles from Cape Corientes, they spied some ruabies, which they apprehended had come from islands or cliffs at no great distance, though they never came in sight of any. The Captain in the midst of these tumults gave them fair words; told them, that it was probable, the Spanish accounts might be the best, and encouraged them by giving them hopes, that, as the breeze continued, a few days patience would put an end to their troubles. On the 18th of May they met with some rain, and the clouds settling in the west foretold their near approach to land. On the 20th, the bark being near three leagues a-head, ran over a rocky shoal, on which there was only four fathom water. On the shoal they observed abundance of fish swimming every where about; and Captain Teat imagining that land was near, clapt upon a wind with the bark’s head to the north, and lay by to speak with the ship. When the ship came up, Captain Teat went on board, and related what he had seen; on which, being then in lat. 12 deg. 55 min. N. and Guam being laid down in 13 deg. N. they clapt on a wind, and steered to the northward, very doubtful, however, of being right, as no shoals near Guam are noticed in the Spanish charts. They pursued this course, however, till four in the afternoon; when, to their unspeakable joy, they saw the island of Guam at eight leagues distance. “And happy it was, says Dampier, that we got sight of it before our provisions were gone, of which we had but enough for three days more; for, as I was afterwards informed, the crew had combined first to kill Captain Swan, and eat him, when the victuals were gone; and, after him, all of us who were accessary in promoting the voyage.”

Nothing can exhibit a more striking indication of the ferocity of man’s nature, than the resolution formed by this abandoned crew. After a long series of enormities, robberies, murders, burning of houses and towns, exposing their fellow-creatures to want of food and shelter, and spreading terror and devastation wherever they set their feet, they at length, distressed and half-famished themselves, begin to murmur against their leaders, and the greater number combine to murder the lesser number, and to make food of their flesh. Need we, after reading this, have recourse to those we call barbarous nations for instances of the savage nature of man! The most uncultivated of those eat only the flesh of enemies killed in war; but these wretches, who called themselves christians, exceeded in their intention every horrid example we read of; they conspired to kill and eat their own Chiefs!

On the 21st of May they came to an anchor about the middle of the island of Guam on the west side. This is one of the Ladrone islands. Dampier places it in 13 deg. 21 min. N. and computes the meridian distance of Guam from Cape Corientes to be about 7302 miles; and supposes the South Sea to be of greater breadth by 25 degrees than is commonly allowed by hydrographers. It is about twelve leagues in length and four in breadth; on it the Spaniards have a small fort of six guns, garrisoned by 20 or 30 soldiers, and commanded by a Governor, and one or two subordinate Officers. The climate is healthy, and the natives active, docile, and ingenious, and are the best boat-builders throughout the Indian seas. Dampier believes their boats sail the best of any in the world. He tried one of them by the log; and, by the rate she ran in half a minute, computes her course at 24 miles within the hour. These Indians are no less dexterous in navigating than in building their boats. By report they will pass to other islands at 30 leagues distance, do business, and return again in 12 hours.

They had no sooner cast anchor than a Spanish friar came on board, with three Indians: Captain Swan received the priest with great civility told him they came with no hostile intention, but as friends to purchase with their money provisions to continue their voyage. The priest replied, that provisions were now scarce upon the island, but would engage the Governor to do his utmost to supply their wants. They thought proper, however, to detain the padre till his promise was fulfilled.

Next day a messenger was sent with letters and a present to the Governor, and in the mean time two boats were manned, one to fish, and another to purchase cocoa-nuts; the former returned empty, but the latter came back laden. The Governor, on the receipt of the letters and present, in token of friendship complimented the Captain with six hogs, 12 musk-melons, and as many water melons; and at the same time sent an order to the Indians in the nearest town to bake every day as much bread-fruit as the ships should require, and to assist the mariners in gathering cocoa-nuts and other fruits; with which order the Indians very readily complied. During this friendly intercourse the Manilla ship came in sight; but, being first seen from the fort, the Governor found means to apprize her of her danger, and she stood off, and escaped without being discerned by the ships. But in steering to the southward to avoid them, she was very near sharing a worse fate; for she struck upon the shoal already mentioned, and, after three days incessant labour, floated off with the loss of her rudder. During her distress the men got intelligence of her situation; but Captain Swan, who had determined no longer to follow the infamous employment of plundering, found means to divert them from their purpose of attacking her.

On the 30th of May the Governor sent his last present to Captain Swan, consisting of some hogs, a jar of pickled mangoes, a jar of excellent pickled fish, a jar of rusk or bread made of fine flour, and six or seven packs of rice. In return, at his own request, he was furnished with powder and shot of which he was in want; but what he coveted most was a fine English dog which they had on board, with which he was likewise gratified. The friar’s civility was rewarded with a brass clock, an astrolabe, and a large telescope; in return for which he sent the Captain six hogs, some bushels of potatoes, a roasting pig, and half a hundred weight of fine Manilla tobacco. The ships were plentifully supplied, besides, with every thing the island afforded; cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit as many as the ships could stow, and upwards of 50 hogs in pickle. Captain Swan was desirous of the Governor’s letter to the merchants of Manilla, having a private view to trade, which he concealed from his villainous crew.

On the 2d of June, they departed from Guam, directing their course to Mindanao, one of the Philippines; a range of islands extending in length from the 5th to the 19th degree of North latitude, and occupying in breadth about six degrees of longitude. The principal island in this range is Luconia on the north, where Magellan, in his voyage round the world, was slain with a poisoned arrow, and where the Spaniards made their first settlement, and established at Manilla a mart of traffic with the richest kingdoms of the east.

On the south, Mindanao is the principal island. It is in length about 60 leagues, and in breadth fifty. It is diversified with hills and vallies. The hills abound with gold, and the vallies are covered with perpetual verdure. It is finely watered with rivers and springs; and the plains and lawns are interspersed with groves of lofty trees, some of which are formed for shade, and some afford food for the inhabitants.

Of the pith of one they make their bread, and of the sap of others they make a pleasant drink. The marshy grounds abound with rice, and on the dry hilly land they cultivate yams, potatoes, melons, and a variety of vegetables unknown to Europeans. Their chief fruits are plantains, bonanoes, nutmegs, cloves, beetel-nuts, durians, jaccas, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and oranges.

The plantain Dampier calls the king of fruit, and prefers it to every other. The tree that bears it is between three and four feet in circumference, and rises about ten or twelve feet high. When at its height, there springs from the top a stem about the size of a man’s arm, round which the fruit grows in clusters, in shape not unlike the Turkey cucumber, the coat of which is of a yellow colour when ripe. The inclosed fruit is of a delicate flavour, and melts in the mouth like mamalet. It is highly esteemed by all Europeans, and all their settlements are furnished with plantain walks, some families subsisting wholly upon that fruit.

The bonanoe differs but little from the plantain, except in size, being small and less luscious.

The nutmeg and clove trees are rare in this island, but those that grow are large and fine. The natives discourage their growth for fear of exciting the jealousy of the Dutch, who have monopolized the whole trade for spices, and who keep in pay a company of armed soldiers to cut down the spice-trees in the uninhabited islands, lest other European nations should avail themselves of their plenty. Dampier says, that he has been assured that, in some of the eastern islands, it is usual to see, at the shedding time, cloves three or four inches deep under the trees.

Of the beetel-nut all the Eastern people are immoderately fond. It is the fruit of a tree that grows like the cabbage-tree to the height of ten or twelve feet, without either leaf or branch, and then sends forth shoots on every side, among which the fruit is found in clusters, on tough stalks about the bigness of a man’s finger. It is larger than a nutmeg, and rounder; they cut it, when green, in quarters, wrapping each quarter up in an arek-leaf, and chewing both together. It tastes rough, dyes the lips red, and makes the teeth black.

The durian grows on trees like apple-trees, and are in size as large as pumpkins, covered with a thick rind, which, when ripe, opens and sends forth a strong scent, not unlike that of roasted onions. It divides into chives, each about the size of a pullet’s egg, the inside of which is of the consistence of cream, and must be eaten in its prime, or there is no enduring its rankness.

The jacca differs very little from the durian; only the inside of the former is yellow, and that of the latter white.

The island of Mindanao abounds likewise with animals of various kinds; and, according to Dampier, is one of the most plentiful islands in the world; and, though so near the Equator, being in 7 deg. N. the air is temperate, enjoying gentle sea breezes in the day, and cooling land-winds in the night.

Though they arrived on this coast about the middle of June, yet it was the middle of July before they could come to an anchor. They were ignorant of the situation of the chief town; and, arriving first on the opposite side, had been all that time plying about the island in search of it. At length they cast anchor near the river that bears the name of the island, and leads to the chief city. They fired seven guns, and were answered from the shore by three. They were presently after invited by a Raja and one of the Emperor’s sons, who demanded in Spanish, who they were, and from whence they came? They were answered by Mr. Smith (the gentleman made prisoner at Leon), that they were English, and had been long from their country. They were told, they were welcome; and asked if they were come to settle a factory, and to open trade? They said, they came only to purchase provisions. At which the Mindaneians appeared disconcerted. Captain Swan was some time at a loss to account for this circumstance; but he afterwards understood, that a Captain Goodluck had been there some time before, with some proposals from the East-India Company; and that, when he went away, he had given them some reason shortly to expect an Ambassador from England, to complete the treaty.

The Raja and Prince sat in their canoes; and, after half an hour’s conversation, took their leave, having invited Captain Swan ashore, and promised to assist him in procuring provisions.

There are three small islands called Meangis, within 20 leagues of Mindanao, that abound with gold and cloves; and, while Captain Swan was beating along the coast, in his passage from Guam to the river where the ships now were at anchor, they were observed by the Princes of that country, and known to be English. The Prince of those islands, having heard a good report of the English, and fearing a visit from the Dutch, sent secretly his nephew to Captain Swan, to invite him and his company to come and settle in his territories, offering every advantage in point of trade and security that he should require. Nothing could have been more advantageous, both to the nation and the settlers than this offer; but Captain Swan paid no regard to it.

As the season was now approaching when the westerly monsoon was about to set in, which would necessarily oblige the ships to stay a considerable time in the port of Mindanao, Captain Swan judged it his interest to cultivate a good understanding with the reigning Sultan. With this view he caused a magnificent present to be prepared for the Sovereign, consisting of scarlet-cloth, gold lace, a Turkish scymetar enriched with jewels, and a case of pistols, together with presents of less value to his chief Ministers; and, being in readiness, he sent them on shore by Mr. More, who sailed with him from London as chief supercargo, when his design was to trade in the South Seas. These presents were graciously received. The Sultan made Mr. More sit down by him, and asked him many questions concerning England, by means of a Spanish interpreter; and, after an hour’s conversation, dismissed him with marks of the highest esteem. Next day Captain Swan was invited on shore, and admitted to an audience in form; when the Sultan shewed him letters from the East-India Company, and desired to know if he came to settle in consequence of those letters? He talked with him much concerning the produce of his country, and the nature of carrying on commerce; and seemed highly entertained with the accounts he gave of it, and of the countries through which he had passed, and the novelties he had seen. He was three hours in close conversation; and, when he was dismissed, was entertained by Raja Laut, the King’s uncle, with a sumptuous banquet, after their manner, consisting of boiled rice, fish, and fowls.

On this occasion, Captain Swan was given to understand, that, while Mr. Goodluck resided in that city, he had been robbed by a servant belonging to Raja Laut, and that the fellow absconded till Mr. Goodluck took his leave; but that he was now returned, and was ready to be delivered up to be punished, in such manner and with such severity as crimes of the like nature are punished by the laws of England. But Captain Swan told him, that in his country none but the injured party could prosecute the criminal; and, as the man had committed no offence against him, he could take no cognisance of his crime. The Raja heard him with astonishment; and, to shew that the Princes of Mindanao were far from countenancing such practices, he caused the fellow to be stript naked, tied to a post, and exposed a whole day with his face to the burning sun; while at the same time the Moskitos continually tormented him without a possibility of being able to brush them off; a kind of torture that few have hardiness enough to survive. This condescension, in offering to deliver up the criminal to be punished by the Captain, was followed by a like offer from the Captain, with respect to any of his men who should offend against the laws of the Mindaneians; but the Minister returned the compliment, and left the punishment to the Captain himself, who, upon the least complaint, punished his men with a severity that shewed more of revenge than of justice, and which they afterwards look occasion to resent. Among those who felt the effects of his indignation was Captain Teat, his chief mate, who commanded the bark that accompanied him in his run across the Southern Ocean; and others, who had offended him on board, he remembered, now he had the countenance of the court on shore.

Captain Swan was highly caressed by the Chiefs of Mindanao, and pressed to stay and secure his ships from the approaching tempests, which always attend the change of the monsoons; and, as the river before the rainy season generally runs low, finding it difficult to float his ship over the bar, fifty or sixty Mindaneian fishermen were immediately sent with their canoes, to assist him in lightening his ship, and floating her up the river. She was no sooner moored than a free intercourse with the natives commenced. They expressed their regard for the English by signs that were easily understood. When the Dutch were mentioned to them, they would spread their fore-fingers half a foot apart, saying _Bujeto_, they are so far distant in friendship: when speaking of the Spaniards, they would spread their fingers still wider; but when the English were spoken of, they would bring their fingers quite close, saying _Samo_, we are all one. They were very fond of getting the men to their houses, where they kindly entertained them, after their manner, with tobacco, and beetel-nut; and where those who had money, and were decently dressed, were pressed to connections with the best families, and courted by the young females to the most familiar intimacy. To men who have long been at sea, such inducements are irresistible; and many of them made themselves poor by being too easily drawn in by these allurements to spend their money lavishly. Some who accompanied Harris from the North Seas had gold in abundance; and the Mindaneian misses, when they knew their power, very soon found the way to ease them of it. In Mindanao they had goldsmiths and other artificers, who charged double their value for such baubles as these prodigals were for ever bespeaking to present to their favourites; besides, some of them bought houses, and hired servants, and lived as profusely as the Raja himself, imitating the custom of the country, and having a pagelly or principal companion, and half a dozen mistresses. It was not long before the town’s-people discovered the true humour of English sailors, and they likewise took care to make their advantage of it. As they had no other but gold in lumps, when they wanted change, they gave them at the rate of 11 or 12 dollars an ounce. To others the same gold was exchanged for 18 dollars. The price of provisions and common necessaries was in like manner enhanced by those spendthrifts; and thus, says Dampier, the poor were made to suffer by the folly of the rich, and a foundation was laid for imposing upon all Englishmen who should hereafter have occasion to take up their residence in that port.

Captain Swan himself was seldom seen at any other house but Raja Laut’s or the royal palace. At the latter he made frequent visits, and at the former dined every day, attended by such of his men as had no money to spend, who had rice in plenty provided for them, and sometimes the remains of fowls or pieces of buffalo, drest in a course, and served in a hoggish manner. The Mindaneians use neither knives nor forks in eating, and they cram their mouths with lumps as large as they can take in, those being accounted the genteelest who can open their mouths the widest.

The religion of Mindanao is the Mahometan, and when the ships first cast anchor, it was their _Ramadam_, which answers to our Lent, when all sports and pastimes are suspended; on this account the Raja made an apology for not entertaining the Captain with the usual diversions of the country. The wet season too came on, which caused a general suspension of all out-door business.

During the month of August the weather became tempestuous, and the rains excessive. The river swelled and overflowed its banks; and it was with the utmost difficulty the ships were prevented from driving on the main land, or into the open sea; for trees of vast magnitude came floating down with the torrent, and frequently pressed against their bows with such weight, that they were in continual fear lest their cables should give way. During the time of these inundations the city stands, as it were, in a pond, and there is no communication between house and house till the floods abate. It was probably this circumstance that suggested to them the manner of constructing their houses. They are all built upon posts from 12 to 20 feet high. These posts are larger or smaller according to the height or magnitude of the superstructure. The Sultan’s palace has but one floor, on which, however, there are many rooms, to which they ascend by stairs from the street. It stands upon 180 posts, and is twenty feet above the level of the ground. The ordinary houses are also of one floor, and ascended by ladders. The roofs are all covered with palmeto leaves. The area beneath their houses is usually fenced in, and there the poorer sort keep their poultry; and there also is received the common draught of their sculleries; and, were it not for the frequent inundations that carry off the soil, the nastiness of the meaner people would render living in Mindanao impossible: but every crevice is scoured clean by the violence of the currents, which frequently overset the houses; though the posts on which they stand are sunk deep in the ground.

The inhabitants of Mindanao are, like all the Eastern people, very clean in their persons; they constantly bathe every day once, and sometimes oftener; they wash after every meal: and, if they happen to touch by accident any unclean thing, they have their times of purification allotted, before the expiration of which they are not permitted to leave their chambers. Swine are held with them in abomination, and though they run wild in the woods, yet they are never eaten. The chief food of the people is rice, sago, plantains, bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other nutritious fruits; among the better sort, fowls and beef are used rather by way of relish, than as solid subsistance; for they are boiled to rags in their strange messes.

The Mindaneians are of low stature, small limbs, straight bodies, little heads, and are of a brown copper-colour. The women are fairer than the men, and their hair is black and long, and generally well dressed. Their visage too is rounder, and better featured than that of the men; only their noses are small, and so flat between their eyes that the rising is scarce discernible. At a distance they look tolerable, but on a nearer approach these imperfections are rather disgusting. Their dress consists of a petticoat and a loose jacket. The sleeves of the jacket are long and wide at the shoulders, but sloping down to their wrists, where they are so tight that it is with difficulty they get their hands through in putting them on. They then rise in folds about the arm, and in that lies their pride. The better sort of people wear fine callico or silks; the meaner sort, an ordinary cloth made of the plantain-tree, which they call saggen. The women, in general, (as has been noted) love the company of strangers, especially of white men; and Dampier adds, that the men belonging to the ships could scarce walk the streets without being pulled into their houses.

The chief artists among them are goldsmiths, ship-builders, carpenters, and smiths; all of whom are excellent in their way, allowing for the badness of their tools. Dampier gives a description of their smith’s bellows, which is simple and ingenious. It is composed of two hollow cylinders, like the large wooden pipes used by us for the conveyance of water; they are cut flat at both ends, in length about four feet, and placed upright at the distance of two feet from each other upon a stone hearth before the fire. Within two inches of the bottom of each a pipe is placed, projecting like a cock towards the fire, but bending so as that the pipes from both cylinders meet and terminate in one before they reach it. Thus constructed, and fixed firm, a man with two light brushes made of feathers, which he works alternately like two pistons, keeps up a continual blast; and with this simple contrivance, without either vice or anvil, other than a large stone or the butt-end of an old cannon, they fabricate their work to admiration. Their carpenters have neither saws nor planes, and yet they split and smooth their boards with great neatness. This requires time, but their work is the more durable for it, because the grain being unbroken the timber remains the tougher.