Chapter I: Preface

Although the reader will quickly make the discovery for himself, I should like here to emphasise the fact that this is a book about Paris and the Parisians written wholly from the outside, and containing only so much of that city and its citizens as a foreigner who has no French friends may observe on holiday visits.

I express elsewhere my indebtedness to a few French authors. I have also been greatly assisted in a variety of ways, but especially in the study of the older Paris streets, by my friend Mr. Frank Holford.

E. V. L.

NOTE

Since this new edition was prepared for the press the
devastating theft of Leonardo da Vinci's "Monna Lisa" was
perpetrated. Pages 81-87 therefore--describing that picture
as one of the chief treasures of the Louvre--must change
their tense to the past.

E. V. L.

CONTENTS

PAGE
CHAPTER I
THE ENGLISH GATES OF PARIS 1

CHAPTER II
THE ILE DE LA CITE 9

CHAPTER III
NOTRE DAME 31

CHAPTER IV
SAINT LOUIS AND HIS ISLAND 54

CHAPTER V
THE MARAIS 61

CHAPTER VI
THE LOUVRE: I. THE OLD MASTERS 78

CHAPTER VII
THE LOUVRE: II. MODERN PICTURES AND OTHER
TREASURES 97

CHAPTER VIII
THE TUILERIES 114

CHAPTER IX
THE PLACE DE LA CONCORDE, THE CHAMPS
ELYSEES AND THE INVALIDES 132

CHAPTER X
THE BOULEVARD ST. GERMAIN AND ITS
TRIBUTARIES 158

CHAPTER XI
THE LATIN QUARTER 170

CHAPTER XII
THE PANTHEON AND SAINTE GENEVIEVE 188

CHAPTER XIII
TWO ZOOS 199

CHAPTER XIV
THE GRANDS BOULEVARDS: I. THE
MADELEINE TO THE OPERA 214

CHAPTER XV
A CHAIR AT THE CAFE DE LA PAIX 227

CHAPTER XVI
THE GRANDS BOULEVARDS: II. THE OPERA TO THE
PLACE DE LA REPUBLIQUE 244

CHAPTER XVII
MONTMARTRE 260

CHAPTER XVIII
THE ELYSEE TO THE HOTEL DE VILLE 276

CHAPTER XIX
THE PLACE DES VOSGES AND HUGO'S HOUSE 299