Chapter II: Part 2

It was understood that silence was strictly to be kept, and not a shot fired until orders were given from the captain. All were regularly mustered, under arms, every night before supper; the arms discharged and reloaded, and the necessary steps taken to ensure their readiness for use. The two boat cannonades were each in charge of a quarter watch. At night every body slept with their arms by their side. Besides the sentinels, who called out the half hours throughout the night, a watchword was established, and an officer and midshipman were constantly moving about the encampment and visiting the posts. Such were the precautions used in our endeavours to secure our camp. The Indians, who brought from the hills each his grass-net of apples, potatoes, or fowls, to exchange with us for whatever we had, were requested to carry on their marketing in a small mound of sand, about 100 yards from us; and we put up a staff, with a cross, to indicate the spot, getting an interpreter to explain what we wished: for it was of infinite consequence to prevent an acquaintance with our camp. They smiled at our arrangement, but were not displeased, and for some time they adhered to our desire with tolerable regularity. The Indians had brought each day some supply of poultry, which the crew obtained from them, at first, at an easy rate of exchange, and they willingly received buttons or bits of metal in return: the eagerness, however, of the sailor to add the luxury of a fowl to his mess of salt meat caused the cunning Indian to demand articles of dress: an old shirt was what they coveted much; and a jacket was also among the articles eagerly sought for. On each of our batteries was fixed a flag-staff, to which a union-jack was secured, and kept constantly flying. A full supply of grape, canister, and round shot was piled on each platform, which was composed of cannonade slides sunk into the sand. These guns, as well as those on the stern of the wreck, were almost every evening discharged and reloaded, preparatory for the night. None could go in or out of the encampment without being seen by the sentinels; and at night the watchword was demanded of all who moved out of their tents. Don Bernardino kept us constantly on the alert with regard to the Indians. He had, with the consent of Captain Seymour, despatched an express to the governor of the frontier town of Arauco, begging him to use his authority in collecting seventy horses and thirty mules, to be driven down to the coast to assist in transporting our provisions and baggage to the Rio Leubu, that being the spot from whence we could alone hope to be relieved.

_Tuesday, May 26._--Light north-westerly winds and clear weather. Observations were taken, by means of a false horizon, by the master and master-assistant, for a latitude and longitude of the encampment, which gave the latitude 37° 48′ 48″ s., and longitude 73° 34′ 30″ w. The wreck bore from the camp s.w. by w. We now felt a great satisfaction and security in our barricade. Our sick list numbered about ten, who were unfit for active work. Several of the ten were laid up from over work or rheumatic attacks, the result of their being constantly wet in labouring at the wreck.

On board the Challenger, at the time of her disaster, was a Spaniard, who had been engaged in the affair of the Falkland Islands, and was one of the Gauchos who had been taken as concerned in the murders committed there in 1833. He had been released, and was a passenger from Rio de Janeiro, to be landed at Valparaiso; but he had frequently exhibited such symptoms of mental derangement, that it became necessary to secure him in his hammock. On the day the evening of which we were wrecked, he had been unusually unruly, and was therefore placed under restraint. In the moment of the greatest danger, on the striking of the ship amongst the breakers, one of the first who ran on deck was the Spaniard, with scarcely any covering on him. He must have broken away from the lashings which secured him, appeared perfectly sane, and prepared to assist in the duties of the ship; and, singular to relate, on no occasion afterwards, during the whole time of our stay on the shores of Chili, was there observed any return of wildness. He was very useful in the camp, from his skill in cutting out and applying the hides of the bullocks to the fabrication of moccassins.

_Wednesday, May 27._--The wind northerly, with thick weather and fog. One watch was occupied at the wreck, getting out any undamaged articles of provisions, private property, or stores that could be got at. The quantity of water in the holds, however, prevented much being done. About mid-day, the Cacique Pinoleo, with his wife and daughter, and several followers, arrived at our camp. He was on his road to join his brother, the Cacique Colissi, who had sent for more assistance to make head against the hostile Indians, with whom he had been fighting. After collecting and mustering the Indians around our camp, and treating us with their war-whoop, he left us to join his brother, strengthening his force with the greater part of Rafael Lobo’s Indians. The daily routine of mustering under arms, with every precaution against a surprise during the night, was duly attended to. The night was damp and foggy.

_Thursday, May 28._--The weather moderate, the wind northerly, with a damp fog. Except the necessary attention to the stream-cable fasts, and the working of the pumps, the crew were allowed a respite from their previous daily hard labours, the occupation of to-day being the arrangement of the interior of the tents, and the examination of their clothes and bedding, and likewise cleaning and sweeping inside the barricade, and making storage of the provisions. By the captain’s order a survey was taken by the second lieutenant, Mr. Collins, Mr. M’Donald, the master, and Mr. Barclay, the carpenter, to ascertain, if possible, the principal damage received in the hull of the wreck. Towards sunset it was observed that the stern-post was left dry in the drawback of the surf; and, from the forming of a sand-bank outside the ship, the iron stock of the best bower-anchor was at times visible about half the ship’s length ahead of her. The current through the surf to the southward along shore appeared unusually strong; the weather to seaward dark and gloomy, with the appearance of an approach of a strong northerly gale. At 5 A.M. mustered under arms, and supplied what ammunition was necessary; discharged the arms, and reloaded; and likewise on board the wreck. A messenger arrived from the governor of Arauco to Don Bernardino, acknowledging our request to have horses and mules collected for our removal to the banks of the Rio Leubu, and promising the exertion of all his authority to forward so important an object. The wind increased as the night advanced.

_May 29._--The weather dry, but with strong breezes, and cloudy from the northward; an unusually heavy surf rolling in on the beach, breaking with great violence and height on the breakers to seaward: the ship very uneasy, so much so as to threaten a separation of the decks from the lower body of the ship; to relieve her the foremast was cut away, and driven up on the beach to the southward, and the larboard sheet-anchor let go, the mainmast and bowsprit being the only spars now standing. A second small anchor was got on shore to assist in steadying the wreck, with the fore-gaugers and chain-messenger bent to it and hove taut. As the duty permitted, the officers and men were allowed to stroll to some little distance from the camp; and, with one of the Chilinos as a guide and interpreter, a party was occasionally made, in accordance with inclination, as well as appetite, in search of game of any description that might assist in adding to and varying our dinner. Persuaded by Don Bernardino, who furnished horses, the captain, with Mr. Sarjeant and a guide, rode for an hour two or in the direction of the ground pointed out by Rafael Lobo, and as far as the Cacique Cheuquante’s residence, over the hills north of us, distant about two leagues. There they found one of Pinoleo’s wives and a daughter, and attendants. They passed on their road one of the few evidences of a burial-ground which was seen by us. It was a spot of ten or twelve yards square, securely fenced by trunks of large trees piled round, the ends being rudely morticed into each other. The beauty and luxuriance of the country on the hills was a great contrast to the barren sandy flat on which we were situated. The variety and size of the evergreens were most striking. Many trees which bore fruit were also pointed out as much esteemed and eaten by the Indians: some cranberries were also gathered. Abundance of partridges were seen. At 4 P.M. Mr. Lane, the assistant-surgeon, arrived from Concepçion, bringing the welcome intelligence that his companion, Mr. Jagoe, with the consul, Mr. Rouse, were on their road to us, and hoped to reach our camp on the next day. Mr. Rouse was bringing with him several mules laden with articles which he considered we might have need of, as spirits and bread; not knowing of our success in saving out of the ship sufficient provisions for the present support of all. These mules delayed his movements; he, therefore, very properly, had pushed Mr. Lane on with a safe guide to convey to the captain, with as little delay as possible, a reply to his letter, naturally supposing the anxious suspense we were under to hear from him. The consul was also bringing some presents, to conciliate the good-will of the caciques on the road and around our encampment. Towards sunset our camp was put in movement by the appearance, through the distant haze to the southward, of an approach of several groups of horsemen, and a mounted scout was sent by Don Bernardino to reconnoitre. They turned out to be some of Cheuquante’s Indians, who were returning from the late battles fought by Colissi against the hostile Indians. Towards night it blew a heavy gale: its effect on the sand, which we were on, was most inconvenient and annoying, finding its way into every thing inside the tents.

_Saturday, May 30._--Strong gales from the northward, with heavy rains, which penetrated the tents a good deal, causing many attempts on the part of the sleepers, during the night, to discover the driest spot inside to lie down on. Daylight saw a crowded group huddled together in the centre of the tent, as being the most free from rain. It was necessary to turn all hands on the pumps to clear the holds of as much water as possible, in order to endeavour to get at the remainder of the provisions, which might have escaped injury. The heavy surf which broke this day on the ship made her very uneasy. Amongst the articles secured to-day, out of the after-hold, were a quantity of salt provisions and other articles, many of which were too much damaged for use, the whole of the lower frame of the ship having been a long time under the influence of sea-water. The provisions and spirits were carefully transported to the camp; the latter placed in the officers’ tent; the former ranged outside of it, in a trench, and covered with sand, thus securing and steadying the tent.

At 12 30′ P.M. we experienced a severe shock of an earthquake, causing a very strong vibration to every article in our tents, and instantly arousing several who were asleep, resting from fatigue. An account of the whole of the provisions saved was carefully taken, and such daily issues made to the crew, under the management of Mr. Sarjeant, the purser, as the quantity of the various species would admit of. The precaution of securing a large proportion of our bread, at the moment of our disaster, and putting it into casks, proved of the greatest consequence to us; for, although it ran short, the third, and afterwards, as long as it lasted, a fourth, of the established daily allowance was of infinite service to us. The powder cases from the magazines, many of which were got out, were discovered not in every instance to have resisted the wet; yet we fortunately had an ample supply for all our necessities. The weather broke a little towards the evening, but with frequent squalls, attended by heavy rain.

_Sunday, May 31._--The wind still northerly and fresh, with heavy rain, rendering our camp and tents very uncomfortable. The marsh and flat round us was much flooded, and gave us some idea of what we might expect, should the winter rains commence before we were enabled to quit our present spot, which had, in several points of view, the appearance of an island. The little stream of water which skirted the base of our camp rose amongst the hills inland, in which direction it partook of the character of a small river; and a few small fish were occasionally to be seen jumping in its deepest parts. Its increase after rain was considerable; resuming its ordinary size and force on the return of dry weather. At the camp, in the absence of washing apparatus, it became the scene of each morning’s ablution; and was on every account of inestimable value to us, for it was of excellent quality. A walk on the banks of the little stream could be extended to three or four miles, and yet continuing in sight of our camp, from the flatness of the ground. Duck and widgeon constantly sprang up from under the banks, which were towards the hills, covered with myrtles, rushes, and a gigantic weed peculiar to the marshes of that part of Chili.

On the north side of the stream the officers had, as duty permitted them, gone out with their guns, and seldom returned without a supply of partridges and wild ducks, excellent in flavour, and most acceptable to our numerous mess, which included the officers of all grades, our excellent shipmate, Mr. Sarjeant, being the caterer, and fulfilling, under circumstances, so laborious and troublesome this duty, in a manner deserving the hearty thanks of his messmates. Anxious on every account to advance the necessary and evident object of moving to the banks of the Rio Leubu, and desirous of ascertaining the nature of that spot by an eyewitness of our own, in order that, on the arrival of the consul, no time might be lost in deciding on our future operation as concerned the Leubu, the captain at 10 A.M. despatched two officers, with a guide from the Chilino party, to examine the entrance of that river, with reference to forming an encampment there, and to the possibility of being able to embark from it. Every hour now sensibly proved to us the impossibility of remaining on our present ground. We had been dependent on the wreck for fire-wood, the quantity of which we had burnt was very great. Our spars, from their usefulness as tent-poles and as part of the barricades, we could not suffer to be cut up; parties, therefore, daily foraged the ship and beach for whatever was to be got at to supply the wants of the cooks: our distance from the wood on the hills was too great to send there, besides the risk of separating our force. The surf continued heavy, and the appearance of the weather to seaward squally and unsettled; the ship was working very much in her top sides, and sinking deep forward.

A pest, which eventually became very destructive and annoying to us, had now begun to trouble us, in the shape of a multitude of a large kind of mouse: our provisions, stores, clothes, tents, all suffered from their constant attacks, and the freedom with which they visited the sleepers almost exceeded belief.

At 5 30′ P.M. the British consul, Henry William Rouse, Esq. from Concepçion, arrived at our barricade, accompanied by Colonel Don G. J. Valenzuela, the governor and military commandant of Arauco, with Mr. Jagoe. They had had a severe journey, from the effects of the heavy rain that had fallen in a country where the existence of a road is unknown. Their arrival was hailed with joy as the dawn of our deliverance, and gave us fresh stimulus to exertion. They were fatigued, and gladly partook of what we had to offer them, which included some good wine we had got out of the wreck; and sought some early rest, deciding on the morrow to concert measures for our moving towards the Rio Leubu. The governor expressed himself highly pleased at the manner in which we had barricaded ourselves. We were indebted, for the governor of Arauco’s presence, to the high esteem in which Mr. Rouse is held, amongst the authorities, throughout the country which surrounds Concepçion, where he is much beloved. On Mr. Rouse’s arrival at Arauco, the governor, to whom he is known, insisted on accompanying him to Molquilla, urging the benefit which his authority and presence might be of in assisting him on a journey, if not of danger, at least of great discomfort, and having interviews with the different caciques who were considered friendly to the Chilian government. The reader may possibly feel an interest in knowing what occurred during the journey performed by our two shipmates to Concepçion, and on their return. Mr. Jagoe’s account of it is nearly as follows:--

“The captain had put me in charge of a letter to the British consul at Concepçion, with directions to take it, or find means of transmitting it: he also spoke to Mr. Lane on the same subject. We therefore consulted together as to the best manner of executing this mission, on which so much depended.

“We attempted to communicate with the Indians (who by this time were collecting on the beach, and who evidently seemed inclined to be friendly, and disposed to render assistance to the party on shore), but to no purpose, as we could not make ourselves understood. Happily for us, at this moment a Chilino rode up: he possessed a pleasing countenance, and to him we communicated our wish to be guided to Concepçion, and inquired the distance, which, to our great surprise, we found to be 180 miles. I introduced Mr. Sarjeant (who understands the Spanish language thoroughly) to this Chilino, who, after a few preliminary remarks, agreed to conduct us to Concepçion for a stipulated sum, furnishing horses and all necessaries on the road: but as this Chilino’s horses were at his petraro, eight leagues from the beach, he stood our guarantee for eight dollars with the cacique Cheuquante, for the hire of two horses to take us there; and about half-past 4 three horses arrived, equipped in perfect Indian style, when, after some slight refreshment of biscuit and rum, we took leave of our fellow-sufferers. We rode along the beach about a league, then turned off for the interior, pursuing our way to the foot of some low hills, until we came to the cacique Cheuquante’s dwelling, at about 6 o’clock, at which time it was nearly dark. There we met Don Rafael Lobo, an Indian apparently of Spanish blood from his countenance. He speaks the Spanish language well, and acts as interpreter, and holds the commission of lieutenant of the friendly Indians of the district of Tucapel, and appears to have much influence over them. He urged us much to remain the night. We were much questioned whether we belonged to a merchant ship; if the cargo was saved; of what it consisted; and when we were going to land it: to which Mr. Lane replied, that she was a vessel of war, laden with “powder and ball;” which, on communicating to the group of Indians surrounding us, they held up their hands, howled, and scratched their savage heads, expressive either of astonishment or disappointment. After exchanging our horses, which was the object of our coming here, we continued our way by the side of a thickly-wooded mountain, until the road, if such it maybe called, the horses being knee-deep in water, turned off through this forest. We had not proceeded more than a hundred yards, when the guide called out, ‘Yo he perdido el camino,’ (I have lost the road.) It was at this time quite dark. Such were our prospects, on a cold freezing night, without a dry thread, and Mr. Lane without shoes. The guide rode about two hours, endeavouring to regain the road, or find an opening through almost impenetrable wood, whilst we remained on one spot, occasionally striking sparks with a flint and steel to show our position. At last, fatigued and weary with disappointment, he returned, and pronounced sorrowfully that he had quite lost the road, and we must make up our mind to wait for daylight. Not knowing more of our guide than might be judged of by inexperienced physiognomists, we thought it prudent, in spite of his pleasing countenance, to retire to some distance from him: here we laid down, with our heads on each other’s knees, to keep them out of the wet, giving the signal to turn when either became so insufferably cold or cramped as to require relief. During the night we were alarmed by the frightful neighing of our horses, which our guide informed us was occasioned by the approach of the pinna, a small lion of South America, which is reported to be an enemy to horses, but not to man. In the confusion our guide’s horse got away, and he was a considerable time before he found it; and we heard no more of the intruders. To prevent any further accident, we secured the long bridles of our horses to our arms, in such a manner as made it impossible they could escape without our knowledge, should we be so fortunate as to sleep. Shortly after this we were again alarmed by the barking of dogs, and trampling of horses approaching, as we supposed, in the road we had lost.

“We distinctly heard the voices of Indians, and, if we had known their language, might have been in possession of their intentions: we had no doubt but that they were the party we left at the raucho, who endeavoured to prevail on us to stop the night, and that they were in search of us. When they were so near as to hear if we uttered a word, our guide, in a low tone, said ‘Hush!’ and when the horses made a rustling noise amongst the bushes, he evaded suspicion by grunting like a pig. We asked no questions, but remained in a state of indescribable anxiety till daylight, the 21st, when, wet, cold, hungry, and miserable, we rubbed ourselves to circulate the blood and reanimate our almost frozen limbs. Some time was lost in searching for Mr. Lane’s coat, which had been lost when Camilo’s horse took fright, as we could make no use of it as a covering or protection from the weather, it having been washed on shore, and consequently thoroughly wet. On finding the coat, we saddled our horses, mounted, and discovered the road to be only ten yards from us, and that we had not more than a hundred yards of the forest to pass through. We continued our journey at seldom less speed than a canter; these horses having a peculiar sort of pace, which they can maintain for a length of time almost incredible to an English traveller. We came to a branch of the river Leubu, about twenty or thirty miles inland: with little difficulty we crossed it on horseback; and our guide’s horse being fagged, he took mine, fixed his lasso to the saddle, rode after a few horses which were grazing near us, and in a few minutes entrapped one of the poor animals in that never-failing lasso: this was accomplished in less than ten minutes, and we continued our way across the country till we came to the Rio Leubu. (We had gone to some distance out of our way for the purpose of getting this horse.) Here we dismounted, unsaddled our horses, and hailed an Indian woman on the other side of the river, distant about fifty yards, to know if she had any means of conveying us over. She pointed to something in the shape of a canoe, lying on the bank of the river, filled with mud and water, which, with the assistance of another woman, she managed to turn bottom up, when it proved to be nothing more than a trough, in which they kept their apples for making chiahi, or cider (a very common beverage amongst them): after partially cleaning it, stopping the holes with mud, they floated it, and one of the women embarked, and, with a long pole, shoved it up the river on one side; and when the river turned, she allowed the current to sweep it across, which nothing but her local knowledge of its windings could have enabled her to accomplish. I was the first nominated by our guide to trust to this conveyance, and accordingly slid down the bank (for it was impossible to walk), and introduced myself to the goddess of the deep, by the friendly Indian expression of ‘Mai mai,’ which serves for ‘how do you do?’ ‘good bye,’ ‘very good,’ and is the beginning of every friendly conversation. I embarked, after relieving myself of all incumbrances, such as jacket, waistcoat, &c. thus preparing myself to swim, if necessary; and, standing upright, balanced myself, much to the satisfaction of my _waterwoman_. Mr. Lane and Camilo (our guide) came over in the same way, each bringing his saddle gear. Previous to embarkation our guide drove the horses into the river, over which they swam without difficulty; and, on landing, the lasso was thrown over their necks, which immediately stopped them. Here we went into a raucho, where our waterwoman assumed the character of hostess, and appeared to keep an Indian eating-house, from the quantity of dried beef hanging about the raucho, and some boiling in an earthenware pot on the fire, which she served up in a wooden bowl, when it proved to be cascuella, made from cherqui and ahi (capsicums) boiled together. As a substitute for spoons we used muscle-shells, and for bread we had heated corn, beaten between stones, and moistened with water, something about the consistency of birdlime. Our beverage was a mixture of water and roasted barley, pounded; which, being put into a bullock’s horn and violently stirred, produces an effervescence, in which state it is drank. I need not say, however foreign as this was to our usual fare, we made a hearty meal, not having eaten any thing substantial since the night of the wreck. This repast occupied us about ten minutes; after which we lighted our pajitas, and resumed our journey towards the patraco of our guide, called Eurihuillin, from the river of that name, which runs through it. Here we dismounted, and our guide, with the assistance of his major-domo, went out and caught fresh horses, while we sat by the fire drying our clothes, amused by the interesting interrogations of two old dames, the major-domo’s wife and wife’s sister, who were feeding us with roasted apples and potatoes.

Our guide came in with his trousers very much torn; and knowing that I had a needle and some thread about me, applied to have them repaired. This I was most ready to do, in return for the kind treatment we had received, and the essential services he had rendered us. He then killed a sheep, which was cut in halves, and put under our saddles, as provisions for the journey. About one we again mounted, leaving directions for the horses to be returned to the Indian from whom we had borrowed them, took leave of our kind hostesses, and galloped off on our fresh steeds, much invigorated; but before night things we realtered--we were for galloping, and they for walking. About two leagues from our guide’s residence, we crossed the river Euriheullin, which forms the boundary of this part of his portraco, which is about twelve miles in length, and as many in breadth, and consists principally of coarse grazing ground in its primitive state, with plenty of wood. For this estate he pays sixteen dollars a year to the widow of a cacique. His stock consists of about 100 bullocks, and as many sheep; the former valued at sixteen dollars, and the latter at six reals each. A man’s rank or station in life is here generally estimated by the number of cattle he possesses, together with the quality of the poncho or mantle he rides in, without reference to the appearance of any other part of his dress: from this we judged our guide to be above mediocrity. During this day we rode from eighty to ninety miles, over a rich and beautiful country, where Nature has bestowed her favours with a liberal hand on an indolent and savage race, who are strangers to every kind of agriculture beyond the cultivation of a few potatoes, for which they prepare a fresh spot of ground every year. This will account for the fine specimens we have met with in this country.

About 4 o’clock this afternoon, I lost my sword, from my carelessness in forgetting to buckle my belt, after looking at my watch on horseback. We were an hour looking for it; and this delay occasioned our being benighted on a thickly wooded mountain, where we encountered many difficulties from the intricacies of the passes, and the quantity of water we had to wade through; but as our guide knew this part of the road much better than that of the preceding day, we surmounted them all, and reached the Indian pueblo of Albarada at 9 o’clock. Here we went into a large rancho, crowded with dirty figures of both sexes, and all sizes; besides a number of dogs, which were kicked out, and a place near the fire cleared for us. We sat down cross-legged, enjoying tobacco and chichi, whilst supper was preparing, which was soon done, as they appear to have the pot always boiling, and also plenty of potatoes at hand, which they prepare in the most dexterous manner, with the edge of a muscle shell. Meanwhile the grey-headed dirty señora of the family was engaged, with the guide, in cutting up one of the halves of the sheep, and putting it into the boiler with potatoes and ahi. In the course of an hour it was served up in the usual way; and, after inviting the señor and señora of the party, we brandished our muscle shells in style, having become adepts in an art in which we were novices but yesterday. We made a hearty meal, and having drunk a sufficient quantity of chichi, we prepared our comfortless beds, having only our saddle gear on which to rest our weary limbs. These we placed close by the fire, and lay down to rest, surrounded by dogs and dirty children: however, after our excessive fatigue, we slept tolerably well.

At daylight, the 22d, we arose, and got rid of some of those intolerable pests, pulgas or fleas (with which we were covered), by taking off and shaking our jackets: we then each took a roasted potato, saddled our horses, and mounted. The ground was frozen very hard, and the air exceedingly cold. We had not gone far when my horse showed symptoms of weakness, or disinclination to proceed, which obliged us to go a considerable distance out of the way, to a cacique known to our guide, to procure another. We had not only to go out of our way, but down a very steep mountain, the horses sliding the greatest part of the way on their haunches, when we came to a beautiful valley, rendered still more lovely by the splendid beams of the newly risen sun. Here, by the side of the river, were scattered a few huts or ranchos, out of one of which came the cacique, who hailed us with that friendly phrase, “Mai, mai,” which we obsequiously returned. Our guide told him the nature of our expedition, and the cause of our visit, when he immediately introduced us to the inmates of his dwelling (all women, the caciques being allowed a plurality of wives). He despatched his peons or servants for a horse, while we sat by the fire smoking pajitas, or eating roasted potatoes, occasionally making ourselves understood by the women, to whom we offered some snuff, which, from having been wet, was become caked: this they readily accepted, and were about to put it into “_the general receptacle_,” when I stopped them, and made them understand that it was not to be eaten, by taking a pinch myself. They followed my example, but in a most strange manner, by forcing it up their nostrils, and laughing hideously at the ridiculous use thus made of their “smelling _apparatus_.” Being gratified with the pleasing excitement this pungent powder produced, they begged me to put some in a paper for them: this I was most happy to do, as it was the first opportunity we had (even in this small way) of showing our gratitude for the many and great kindnesses we had received. My horse being brought and saddled, we mounted, leaving directions for the disposal of the fagged horse. We then purchased a goose, which we gave in charge to the guide, lighted our pajitas, and took leave. We ascended this steep mountain in a manner more like going up stairs than any thing else I can compare it to, the heavy rains having given it the appearance of steps; the only support to the horses’ feet being the roots of trees, which intersected the path, and made a tolerably firm footing: we laid down on our horses’ necks to escape being dragged off by the Arcania shrubs, which formed a canopy over our heads. These are chiefly evergreens, some having beautiful flowers. We particularly noticed a large crimson bell-shaped flower, growing as a parasitical shrub, which covered the tops of the tallest trees, and striking the eye of the inexperienced traveller with its incomparable beauty. About eleven we arrived at Arauco, the frontier town of Chili, which is situated twenty leagues south of Concepçion, on the extremity of an extensive marsh, about six leagues in length, bounded on one side by the Pacific Ocean, and on the other by hills, backed by the Cordilleras. This town (which formerly was nothing more than an Indian pueblo, till the Chilinos, by incessant warfare and stratagem, subdued the Indians, and advanced thus far into their territory,) is garrisoned by a few Chilino troops, under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel Señor Don Geronimo José Valenzuela, who was at this time at Concepçion. As soon as we entered the town, the knowledge of our arrival having reached the second in command, Major Don José Sylva, he ran to us, and embraced us as officers in distress, and took us to his quarters, and introduced us to five or six officers, to whom, with himself, we shall ever be indebted for the most Castilian-like kindness and hospitality, which, if I were not an Englishman, I ought to say could not be surpassed. With these gentlemen we dined: they informed us that they would immediately despatch the brother of our guide, Don Bernardino Hermosillo, a captain in their militia cavalry, with a party of twelve men, to guard the wreck at Molquilla; at the same time telling us that their reason for sending so small a number was, because the Indians, so far south as the place where the ship had been wrecked, had acknowledged the government of Chili, and were at present assisting them, or rather themselves, by carrying on an interminable and murderous warfare with the tribes who were disaffected towards the government: the small force they were about to send was merely to act as scouts, to make known the position of the hostile, and to prevent treachery on the part of the friendly tribes, the place of the shipwreck being on the extreme verge where they acknowledged the government of Chili, and where their desperate battles are fought. We took this opportunity of informing Captain Seymour how far we had advanced on our journey; and Major Don José Sylva availed himself of our going to Concepçion for communicating to their government what he had done for the protection of the wreck.

At 2 P.M. we bade a reluctant adieu to these hospitable fellows, deeply impressed with a sense of their kindness and our obligation. We rode along the marsh, observing here and there a rancho, with a spot of cultivated ground, till we arrived at a cluster of ranchos (scarcely deserving the name of a pueblo) about three miles from Lianco, called Caremfranque, after the river which runs near it. Here we were introduced to the family of our guide, who all ran and embraced their parent with affection, and heard from him all the particulars connected with us. Fresh horses were brought by one of the peons, whilst our guide changed his dress and put on a better poncho. It has already been observed, that this part of the habiliment tends to point out the station of life of him who wears it: it is due to our guide to make known that his was a _very good_ one, confirming his respectability and the good character given of his honesty by the officers at Arauco: we can only add that, with the essential service of guiding us to the consul (which we trust will be the foundation of relief to the shipwrecked crew), he has shown us the most christian-like kindness and attention, entitling him to the friendly appellation of “old Camilo,” instead of “our guide.” Taking leave of his kind family, we crossed the river Cacampuqune and came to a few scattered ranchos, named, after an old Spanish fort in its vicinity, “Fuerte viejo Colerico.” Here we were introduced to a Chilian señorita, a pretty brunette, gaudily dressed, and informed by “old Camilo” that we should stop at her house for the night, and, by starting the next morning early, should most probably reach Concepçion in good time, as we were only ten leagues from it. Gratified by this pleasing information, we dismounted, and after begging pardon for our dirty appearance, supper was ordered by “old Camilo:” it was soon prepared, and served up in the Chilian style by our industrious hostess, who, of course, supped with us. During conversation, she told us that there were some Englishmen in the village, and sent for them: they soon made their appearance, and in the course of conversation we discovered them to be North Americans. They made us a present of a dirty pipe and a small quantity of tobacco, which they called real Virginia: this was no treat, as we preferred the pajitas made with mild tobacco, wrapped in the Indian corn-leaf, and presented by our charming hostess, who was an adept in making them. After enjoying our aquaediente and pajitas, we retired to bed and slept soundly; and arose much refreshed at daylight on the 23d. We were delayed until seven o’clock for the horses; and if the nature of our mission had not been so important, we might have said the loss of time was not to be regretted, as our kind hostess was busily engaged in supplying us with maté. At 7 we took leave, promising to call on our way back. We hurried over a high hill or mountain called the “Luro di Villagu,” and by the Indians “Muguana”--(this being the place where they defeated the Spaniards and gained their independence)--then over a plain of six leagues and upwards in length, with here and there a cultivated spot, and many lakes covered with water-fowl. We arrived at the pueblo of San Pedro, on the southern side of the Bio-bio, immediately opposite Concepçion.

Here “old Camilo’s” attention was called to the means of conveying us across the river, while we stopped at the house of an old dame to whom he introduced us: she kindly brought us water, and we washed, leaving our linen to undergo the same process, as we were covered with fleas. Camilo returned, and told us the launch would not be ready for some hours, and recommended our taking breakfast, which we were too happy to agree to: we sat down and made a hearty meal.

About 2 o’clock we embarked in a flat-bottomed oblong launch, with nearly a dozen passengers, two bullocks, four horses, six pigs, and several sacks of wheat. This conveyance was kept under command, against a strong current, by an immense oar which answered the purpose of a rudder. A man was stationed at each end of the launch with a long pole, which, on first starting, was made use of a little, but when in deep water she was merely kept end on to the current by means of the rudder, until we approached the shallow water on the northern side, which covers an extensive flat of sand. On grounding, the horses, bullocks, and pigs disembarked, and the launch being again afloat, was, by the assistance of the poles, shoved some distance over the flat, but still a considerable way from the beach. We disembarked, by mounting our horses from the launch, and entered the city of Concepçion (situated on the Bio-bio), which we found in a state of complete ruin, not a single building standing, and the inhabitants living in tents or wooden houses, which some of the more opulent had been able to erect, as temporary residences. We learned that it had been destroyed by an earthquake, on the 20th of February last: the fatal shock which produced this devastation was felt at mid-day, without giving the slightest warning, when every house and public building fell; and it appears miraculous that only a hundred lives were lost. The port of Talcahuana felt the shock with equal severity. The sea is reported to have risen upwards of fifty feet immediately after the earthquake, breaking up on the ruins, inundating the flat on which the town was situated, and sweeping every thing before it, barely giving the inhabitants time to effect their escape to the hills.

About half-past 3 P.M., in one of these temporary wooden houses, we found H. W. Rouse, Esq., His Majesty’s Consul; and I need not say how happy we were to introduce ourselves to him, and deliver the Captain’s letter. From our shabby dress and dirty appearance, he for a moment eyed us with suspicion; but having opened the letter, his countenance assumed an expression of benevolence and pity. He shook hands with us, called for wine and water; and we immediately saw in him all those characteristics which endear us to one another. He then left us to consult the Intendenté, and deliver the letter we brought from the officers at Arauco: he did not return till 6, when we dined; and the circumstances attending the wreck formed the subject of our conversation, as Captain Seymour’s letter put him only in possession of the bare fact. At 11 we each took a tepid bath, and “turned in” to comfortable beds, the Consul having previously left us to pay his last visit to a dying native, and did not return till 4 in the morning, when he awoke me, and related a few particulars connected with his visit, and the customs of the people in such a case. This story was not at all calculated to strengthen the nerves of a person whose whole system had recently been severely shaken, nor calculated to prepare him for the shock of an earthquake which at this moment threatened destruction. This shock roused me; under the influence of great alarm, I jumped out of bed, and was about to escape from the house, when the Consul called out, “It’s over!” and I returned to my bed, but too much frightened to expect more sleep. The Consul told us they had been visited with shocks, more or less severe, ever since the great earthquake, which amongst the natives appears to mark an epoch, as in conversation they date every thing so many days before or after “the earthquake.” The 24th and 25th were employed in busily writing with the Consul, who determined on accompanying us to the wreck; and requested our whole assistance in preparing despatches for the Consul-general at Santiago, and other persons likely to be the means of affording relief to the unfortunate crew. I need not say that our undivided attention to this and other services was commanded by this gentleman, in order to expedite our return to the wreck, which was his most anxious desire, his whole head and soul being in the hope of relieving or rendering assistance to his distressed countrymen, fully aware that even if they had all succeeded in reaching the shore in safety, there was great danger to be apprehended of an attack by the Indians, should they come upon them by surprise, or if they had not been able to save the means of defence against that vindictive race of savages, who on former disasters had plundered the unfortunate crews of four vessels wrecked upon their coast, and who were more particularly to be feared at this season of the year, as that intoxicating drink chichi is plentiful; and when excited by this beverage they make desperate attacks on horseback, armed with spears of bamboo from twenty to thirty feet in length, and are not an enemy to be trifled with.

_May 26._--The despatches, having been completed at a late hour last night, were sent off this morning at 4 o’clock by an extraordinary courier, who was to be rewarded for his services according to his expedition: if he reached Santiago in seven days, he was to have forty-five dollars, but if in less time, five dollars more for every day less than seven, and decreased in the same proportion for every day more than seven. We were, until five in the afternoon, engaged in preparing for our journey to the wreck, purchasing presents to conciliate the Indians, indigo and other articles to traffic with them, and hiring mules, horses, and servants, to take charge of and guard the numerous things the Consul thought might be of service to the crew, whom he supposed might be destitute. We left Concepçion at half-past five, and rode to the bank of the river, intending to cross and sleep at San Pedro that night; but to our disappointment the launch had gone over, and we were obliged to return to the Consul’s house, where we dined and retired early, purposing to start at daybreak next morning.

_Wednesday, 27._--Arose, took an early breakfast, and crossed the river. We were delayed at San Pedro till 2 P.M. in arranging loads for the mules, hiring horses, &c.; at sunset had only reached the extreme end of the plain before described.

We stopped at the house of a gentleman well known to the Consul, but who at this time was at Santiago. His major-domo, however, offered the use of the house to the Consul, which he declined accepting, or putting him to any trouble more than to prepare a supper, and allow us to arrange our beds inside the corridor. We made a hearty supper; Camilo messing with us, and treated as a valuable friend by the Consul, who placed every confidence in his honesty, and, from his better knowledge of the country people and Indians, intrusted to him the entire arrangement of the journey. After supper, in the course of conversation, it was agreed that Mr. Lane and Camilo should precede us with letters to Captain Seymour and the commandant of Arauco, acquainting them with our proceedings. The letters were written, and we retired to rest.

At daylight, on the 28th, Mr. Lane and Camilo set out, the former to be guided by Camilo’s son, Antonio. The Consul and myself proceeded at 9 on our journey, but found some difficulty in getting the mules on, the rains having rendered the roads almost impassable, the mules constantly falling, and requiring to be relieved of their burdens. Came to Colcura; and, in passing through Fuerte Viejo, I waved my hand to the pretty brunette; and, about 9, after a long and tedious journey, came to the Rio Carampanque, which we crossed about 10 o’clock; arrived at Camilo’s house, where we supped on roasted turkey, cascuella, and the roasted seeds of the Araucano pine; enjoyed our pipes, and retired to rest.

_Friday, 29._--In no hurry to rise this morning: breakfasted at 10, and occupied three hours in loading the mules and hiring horses and additional mules for the conveyance of the shipwrecked crew. At 2 in the afternoon we took leave of Camilo’s family, and proceeded towards Arauco, where we arrived about 3; and dined with the Commandant Valenzuela, and the officers who were so kind to us on our way up. After dinner, a meeting of the friendly caciques was held at this gentleman’s house; when, through the means of an interpreter, they intimated to the Consul and Commandant their friendly disposition towards the shipwrecked crew, and their readiness to assist them. The Consul presented each of them with a jacket, some indigo, tobacco, and Jew’s harps, together with some trinkets for their wives. The Commandant having made up his mind to accompany us to the wreck, we started at 5 o’clock, and about sunset came to a few ranchos on the top of a hill, called Mitmessin: here we supped, and retired to bed; but passed a miserable night, in consequence of its blowing a gale from the northward, and the rancho being neither wind nor water tight.

_Saturday, 30._--Arose and breakfasted; it still blowing hard, and raining heavily: our anxiety greatly increasing for the safety of the crew. At 10 took leave of our friends, and arrived at the Indian pueblo of Albarado at 11, and went to the rancho at which we slept on our way up. Here we found the people celebrating a festival--singing and dancing in a frightfully savage manner, all more or less intoxicated with chichi. They would not allow us to proceed until we acknowledged our friendship by partaking of some of their chichi. We then lit our pajitas, and, about 3, crossed the river, which we found running very rapidly, the current being increased by the heavy rains. I stopped a few minutes at the house of Camilo’s major-domo: the inmates welcomed my return; but I was obliged to hurry my visit, and rejoin the party. We arrived at Lumaco at 6, having passed the troop of mules, which were to remain at the major-domo’s house should night overtake them. We dismounted perfectly drenched, it having rained incessantly during the day, dried our clothes by the fire, supped, and retired to rest, with the consolation that we were only a short day’s journey from the wreck.

Arose at daybreak, it still blowing and raining; waited till 10 for the mules, when they arrived. The servants having breakfasted, at half-past 11 we mounted, and at 2 came to the Rio Leubu, which we crossed in a much better conveyance than we did in our way up; the Consul having brought a large batsa, and a man to manage it, in the hope of assisting the shipwrecked crew in transporting parties and baggage across the rivers. The Consul, Camilo, and myself having crossed, we hurried on our way to the wreck, leaving the mules to follow.

About 5 we arrived; and I introduced the Captain to the Consul, who presented the Commandant, and was gratified by the kind welcome of my shipmates and fellow-sufferers, who hailed us as the harbingers of their deliverance from the wretchedness and privations they had endured; and those only who have been placed in similar circumstances can imagine the delightful feelings produced by such a meeting: having left them surrounded by danger, and now finding them encamped in comparative safety on a mound of sand about 200 yards from the unfortunate ship.

_Monday, June 1._--Wind light from the north. Several pieces of the ship’s bottom were picked up on the beach. The officers sent to examine the entrance of the Rio Leubu returned, bringing a favourable report on the objects in view. The Consul, with the governor, being convinced of the absolute necessity of instantly removing from our present encampment, the Captain and officers met in the presence of the Consul, for the purpose of drawing up a statement of the reasons which caused such a course (of abandoning the wreck) imperative. The opinion of all on this subject was unanimous.